Vetements

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Vetements Group AG

logo
legal form Corporation
founding 2014
Seat Zurich , Switzerland
management Guram Gvasalia (CEO)
Branch Clothing; Luxury items
Website www.vetementswebsite.com

The Vetements Group AG ( vêtements [ vɛtmɑ͂ ] = French for 'clothing') is a fashion company based in Zurich . It was founded in 2014 by the Georgian-German brothers Demna and Guram Gvasalia in Paris . Vetements takes the approach of wanting to design wearable everyday clothing and has become known for the design of eccentric, avant-garde fashion in the upper price segment.

history

Demna Gvasalia (* 1981) moved with his family from Georgia to Düsseldorf in 2000 and from 2002 studied under Walter Van Beirendonck at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp , which he left in 2006 with a degree in fashion design . This was followed from 2009 to 2012 as a women's fashion designer at Maison Martin Margiela and a subsequent employment in women's fashion at Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs and briefly under his successor Nicolas Ghesquière until 2014. In 2015, Gvasalia succeeded Alexander Wang as an artist Head at Balenciaga .

From a general dissatisfaction with the fashion world in 2014 founded Gvasalia in Paris with six other fellow designers from Antwerp who wanted not appear in public, the design collective Vetements . The first Vetements collection in March 2014 was sold to 27 dealers. The company presented its third collection in March 2015 in the Parisian gay nightclub Le Dépôt in the presence of celebrities such as Jared Leto and Kanye West , with which the label broke with the common realities of the contemporary fashion system. In 2015, Vetements was one of the eight finalists of the prestigious LVHM Prize . The next Vetements fashion show was held in a Chinese restaurant called Le Président in the less elegant Parisian Belleville district . In 2016 Demna Gvasalia was voted Person of the Year 2016 by Business Of Fashion magazine . In December 2016, Vetements won the British Fashion Awards in the International urban luxury brand category . In spring 2017, Vetements' headquarters were relocated from Paris to a former Philips factory building in Zurich. To this end, the private Vetements Group AG was founded, which is 100% owned by the Gvasalia brothers. Demna Gvasalia's four years younger brother Guram, who has a law degree from Germany and a master’s degree from the London College of Fashion , already lived in Zurich and acts as the company's CEO . There was speculation in the press about tax reasons for the move. In 2017 Demna Gvasalia was honored by the Council of Fashion Designers of America with the International Award for his work at Vetements and Balenciaga.

Department stores and boutiques such as Galeries Lafayette , MyTheresa ( Munich ), Harrods , Saks Fifth Avenue , Nordstrom , Bergdorf Goodman , Dover Street Market , Isetan and numerous online shops in the upscale segment now carry the Vetements collections. In spring 2016 there were around 120 retailers worldwide. The strategy of the collective is to limit the Vetements offer or to impose a maximum purchase on retailers in order to increase demand through scarcity and to minimize price reductions at the retailers. The company does not plan to open its own stores or its own online shop .

style

Vetements fashion is heavily influenced by streetwear , skater and biker culture, and grunge . Gvasalia often makes use of deconstructivism and reconstructivism in his androgynous designs, as Martin Margiela did. Old designs from the 1970s, 80s and 90s are interpreted in a modern way, and old material is reassembled. Recurring Vetements style elements are oversized sizes (oversize look ), voluminous bomber jackets, bulky silhouettes, sweatshirts or hoodies with print motifs, jeans made from second-hand material in 1980s style, etc.

Cooperations

Vetements took on the design, the cooperation partners produced the articles. So far there have been collaborations with Tommy Hilfiger , Umbro , Church's , Alpha Industries , Levi Strauss & Co. , Mackintosh , Reebok and others.

A yellow Vetements T-shirt with a slightly modified DHL logo in the upper price segment generated media interest in 2016. The only other difference from the original was a stripe on the back. Gvasalia had designed a number of items of clothing with the DHL logo, including T-shirts, in consultation with Deutsche Post . The DHL cooperation was renewed for 2018. In an ironic response to the increasing number of counterfeit Vetements items, the company, in collaboration with the British retailer Matchesfashion, sold new versions of the best-selling Vetements products to date in Seoul at the end of 2016 , which had been edited by the design collective to make them looked like they were fakes themselves . In the same year was Stuttgart that on the road a Vetements Raincoat with the back marked police wore of patrol officers stopped the him with the criminal abuse of titles, job titles and badges in accordance with §§ 132a para. 1 no. 4, para 2, 74 of the Criminal Code and confiscated the coat. From the end of 2016, Vetements was planning a small collection consisting of clothing like those worn by IKEA employees. The collection was not realized, instead Gvasalia presented a women's handbag at Balenciaga in 2017, which was similar to the IKEA shopping bags called Frakta .

For the spring / summer 2017 collection, collaborations were entered into with 18 other fashion companies. The collection was not shown in September 2016, as usual, but in June 2016 in order to extend the period for regular sales of the goods. Since then, Vetements has presented the collections twice a year in January and June at the time of the Haute Couture fashion shows in Paris. One of the principles of the design collective is the renunciation of gender segregation, so female and male Vetements models appear in the same fashion show.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Vetements News, Collections, Fashion Shows, Fashion Week Reviews, and More - Vogue. Retrieved February 19, 2018 .
  2. ↑ 5 facts about the new German-French It label Vetements . In: InStyle . April 11, 2016 ( instyle.de [accessed February 19, 2018]).
  3. ↑ Fashion rebel Demna Gvasalia comes without a catwalk from zeit.de, August 14, 2017
  4. ^ Der Neue zeit.de, February 18, 2016
  5. ↑ Demna Gvasalia Reveals Vetements' Plan to Disrupt the Fashion System . In: The Business of Fashion . February 5, 2016 ( businessoffashion.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  6. ↑ Jessica Bumpus: Balenciaga's New Name: What To Know . ( vogue.co.uk [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  7. ↑ decade Vetements The label is the most radical thing from Paris in a . In: The Independent . October 13, 2015 ( independent.co.uk [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  8. ↑ vetements is the underground label that is revolutionizing the fashion world . In: Id . September 8, 2015 ( vice.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  9. ↑ Vetements takes on Adidas. In: Handelszeitung.ch from December 19, 2017
  10. ↑ decade Vetements The label is the most radical thing from Paris in a . In: The Independent . October 13, 2015 ( independent.co.uk [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  11. ↑ Jessica Bumpus: Collective Spirit: Vetements . ( vogue.co.uk [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  12. ↑ Demna Gvasalia gq-magazin.de, 2016 (PDF)
  13. ↑ vetements is the underground label that is revolutionizing the fashion world . In: Id . September 8, 2015 ( vice.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  14. ↑ Demna Gvasalia is BoF's Person of Year for 2016 . In: The Business of Fashion . December 20, 2016 ( businessoffashion.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  15. ↑ “I would like to see more identity” nzz.ch, November 5, 2017
  16. ↑ The hottest fashion label in the world moves to Zurich tagesanzeiger.ch, February 25, 2017
  17. ↑ At Harrods, Vetements Calls Out The Fashion Industry On Overproduction vogue.co.uk, February 8, 2018
  18. ↑ How Demna Gvasalia defines the aesthetics of an entire generation vice.com, December 20, 2017
  19. ↑ The Hype Machine Vetements gq-magazin.de, September 2, 2016
  20. ↑ Demna Gvasalia - His Own Rules wwd.com, November 18, 2015
  21. ↑ The hype about Vetements: An explanation modepilot.de, March 3, 2016
  22. ↑ Radically normal: Demna Gvasalia from Vetements shz.de, August 15, 2017
  23. ↑ DHL Africa twitter.com, March 17, 2016
  24. ↑ Lauren Cochrane: Scam or subversion? How a DHL T-shirt became this year's must-have. April 20, 2016, accessed February 12, 2018 .
  25. ↑ demna gvasalia on the origins of the well-known dhl-t- shirt id.vice.com, May 19, 2016
  26. ↑ Red and yellow will never go out of fashion - Vetements presents DHL capsule collection dhl.com, July 26, 2017
  27. ↑ Demna Gvasalia is BoF's Person of Year for 2016 . In: The Business of Fashion . December 20, 2016 ( businessoffashion.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  28. ↑ Emilia Petrarca, Isabel Martinez: 25 of the "Stereotypes" That Vetements Is Trying to Tackle For Fall 2017 . In: W Magazine . ( wmagazine.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  29. ↑ Vetements Outdoes Vetememes, Produces "Official Fake" Collection for South Korea wmagazine.com, October 18, 2016
  30. ↑ Charlotte Andersson: Can you really wear the Vetements Police Collection? In: Stylight . ( stylight.de [accessed on February 12, 2018]).
  31. ↑ Alfons Kaiser: Parisian trend brand: This coat has legal consequences . In: FAZ.NET . April 19, 2016, ISSN  0174-4909 ( faz.net [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  32. ↑ Vetements' CEO Reveals the Brand Made an Unreleased IKEA Collab Before Everyone Else highsnobiety.com, September 29, 2017
  33. ↑ Demna Gvasalia Reveals Vetements' Plan to Disrupt the Fashion System . In: The Business of Fashion . February 5, 2016 ( businessoffashion.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).
  34. ↑ Is Vetements Having An Identity Crisis? | Highsnobiety . In: Highsnobiety . February 12, 2018 ( highsnobiety.com [accessed February 12, 2018]).