Brioni (fashion company)
| Brioni
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_logo.svg&filetimestamp=20200113050417&){kind=logo} |
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| legal form | Società a responsabilità limitata |
| founding | 1945 |
| Seat |
Penne (Abruzzo) , Italy
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| management |
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| Number of employees | 1,260 (2015) |
| sales | 170 million euros (2011) |
| Branch | Luxury fashion |
| Website | www.brioni.com |
Brioni is an Italian luxury fashion supplier in the field of men's fashion and is internationally known for its handmade men's suits in the top price segment. The company, which has been owned by Kering since 2011 , is based in Penne (Abruzzo) .
Mainly high-quality men's fashion and accessories are sold under the Brioni name . Parts of the collection are made by hand. The figure and waist-accentuating cut is typical of Brioni. The company also produces bespoke suits for well-known personalities, which can cost up to 40,000 euros.
history
The fashion house was founded in Rome in 1945 by the Savile Row trained tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and the designer Gaetano Savini . The aim was to establish handcrafted ready-to-wear clothing, so-called prêt-à-couture (from prêt-à-porter and haute couture ) in the upscale segment for men. The company started with ten tailors and seamstresses. The first shop opened on Via Barberini in Rome, which remained until 2014. The company name is based on the name of the Brijuni Islands (Italian: Brioni ) in Croatia, known from the end of the 19th century as the summer destination of the European jet set . The first Brioni fashion show took place in 1952 as part of the Pitti fashion fair in the Palazzo Pitti in Florence . In 1956, a women's fashion collection was presented for the first time on a small scale. In the 1950s the first perfumes for men were launched: Brioni , Brionissimo and Brioni Good Luck (all discontinued). In 1960 the company moved to Penne. In 1985 Brioni established its own tailoring school. This Scuola di Alta Sartoria only accepts 16 new students every four years. A second plant was opened in Montabello in the early 1990s. The sporty sub-line Brioni Sport existed at this time . The company prides itself on producing a hand-made suit in almost 220 steps within 24 hours. A Brioni suit costs around 3500 euros upwards.
From 1990, Umberto Angeloni, husband of a Fonticoli granddaughter and in the company from 1982, managed the Brioni company. In 2001 Brioni launched a complete women's fashion division under the name Brioni Donna with designer Fabio Piras. He was followed in 2005 by the Spaniard Cristina Ortiz and in 2007 by the Italian Giampiero Arcese. The Italian Angelo Petrucci has been the first tailor at Brioni since 2001. In 2002, the company received for the high level of quality and creativity of the company's European Fashion Diamond Fashion Award of the Igedo . At the end of 2007, the New York Luxury Institute named the company “the most prestigious men's fashion brand in the USA”. From 2007 the Savini grandson Andrea Perrone ran the company with two managers. From 2009 he was the sole CEO of Brioni. Perrone left Brioni in 2010 and switched to Ferrari. His successor was the manager Francesco Pesci, who had been with the company since 1997. Brioni women's fashion, for which the designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua was hired in May 2010 , was discontinued in August 2011. A short-lived men's fragrance called Brioni came onto the market in 2009, followed by a high-priced new edition in 2014. In 2014 Brioni launched a jewelry collection with cufflinks, tie clips and collar pins made of precious metals. Brioni also offers glasses. An online shop with a limited range was also launched in 2014. In 2014 Gianluca Flore became the new CEO .
In November 2011 it was announced that the company would be sold to the French group Pinault-Printemps-Redoute PPR (today: Kering ) after Brioni had been looking for an investor from 2008. In 2007, the then head of the company, Perrone, announced that Brioni would remain a family business . The press spoke of an unconfirmed takeover price of up to 350 million euros. At the time, the company had 1,800 employees and an annual turnover of 170 million euros. In 2007 it was over 200 million euros. In 2012, Brendan Mullane from Great Britain was the first to hire a chief designer for men's fashion at Brioni. Before that, a design team had always designed the men's collections. Mullane left his post in early 2016.
In March 2016, Brioni appointed Australian Justin O'Shea as chief designer, who had worked for the Munich-based fashion company MyTheresa as a women's fashion buyer since 2009. O'Shea, a rocker with no design training, initiated a radical change at Brioni. He replaced the previous red company logo with black, neo-Gothic lettering that he had found in the archives. The design of the worldwide Brioni boutiques will also be transformed under O'Shea's direction. The first new flagship store designed by David Chipperfield opened in Paris at the end of July 2016. For the first Brioni advertising campaign directed by O'Shea, he hired the band members of Metallica as models. He presented his first men's collection on the fringes of the Paris Haute Couture women's fashion shows in July 2016 in the new flagship store and showed, among other things, floor-length chinchilla coats, the three-piece "Continental" suit he designed in the 1970s style, classic suits, silk shirts , Leather coats and some bespoke ladies' models. In interviews, O'Shea named “ gangsters ” and “ pimps ” as the inspiration and target group for his collection . In the fall of 2016, Brioni split from O'Shea. As a result, the company returned to the old logo lettering in black. In June 2017 Brioni appointed the German and former Maison Margiela designer Nina-Maria Nitsche as creative director. The 79-year-old Anthony Hopkins was hired for the print advertising campaign in summer 2017 . Nitsche returned to more classic designs for two seasons and left Brioni in mid-2018. At the end of 2018, Brioni appointed the Austrian Norbert Strumpfl, who had previously designed men's fashion for Berluti , Louis Vuitton , Balenciaga and Lanvin , as chief designer.
Approx. The company generates 20% of sales through its own boutiques, including on Fifth Avenue in New York City , Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles , Aspen , Las Vegas , Cannes , Paris , Milan , St. Moritz , Hong Kong , Beijing , Dubai , in Germany in Düsseldorf , Frankfurt am Main , Hamburg and Munich . In 2014 there were 96 such shops, almost half of which were operated independently. In terms of regions, Europe is Brioni's main market. In terms of individual countries, it is the USA, followed by Russia and China.
Brioni became known not least through its customers, which include international high society. Starting with the wealthy European nobility , Kirk Douglas , Henry Fonda , Clark Gable , Al Pacino , Anthony Quinn , John Wayne , Donald Trump , Nelson Mandela , Luciano Pavarotti and George W. Bush belong to the customers of the Brioni company. The company obtained a photo series in the gala spin-off Life & Style in March 1999 with the then Federal Chancellor Gerhard Schröder , who was photographed by Peter Lindbergh in a Brioni suit made of cashmere wool with a Cohiba cigar and was criticized for this display of luxury greater awareness in Germany.
Brioni endowed the eponymous hero James Bond and thus the actors Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig in the movies GoldenEye (1995), Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), The World Is Not Enough (1999), Die Another Day (2002) and Casino Royale (2006). Then the license went to Tom Ford . Brioni also acted as outfitter for the movie The November Man (2014).
In March 2016, Brioni announced a restructuring plan according to which the production of suits would be halved to 32,000 per year and as a result the workforce at four production sites would be reduced by a third. Brioni is struggling with the image of an expensive fashion brand for men of advanced age.
Web links
- Brioni official website
Individual evidence
- ↑ Brioni opens in Vial de Babuino in Rome , brioni.com, December 4, 2014
- ^ The Art of Tailoring , brioni.com, accessed March 8, 2016
- ↑ Umberto Angeloni is the boss of Brioni , berliner-zeitung.de, July 10, 2004
- ↑ Women become chancellors , derstandard.at, October 12, 2007
- ↑ Men's fashion de luxe: Problems in suits , April 1, 2015
- ↑ Puma Group buys Italian fashion brand Brioni
- ^ Brioni: Tailor-made balance sheet , manager-magazin.de, July 20, 2007
- ↑ PPR takes over Brioni ( Memento of the original from March 9, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, November 8, 2011
- ↑ People: Justin O'Shea , businessoffashion.com, accessed April 26, 2016
- ↑ “It Should Be Pimp! It Should Be Awesome! " - Justin O'Shea Reveals His Strategy for Giving Tailoring, and Brioni, a Boost , vogue.com, July 4, 2016
- ↑ The New Brioni, Shaken and Stirred , nytimes.com, July 2, 2016
- ↑ Separation from Justin O'Shea - is old Brioni coming back now? welt.de, October 4, 2016
- ↑ Brioni appoints Nina-Maria Nitsche as artistic director
- ↑ BACK TO CLASSIC: SIR ANTHONY HOPKINS FOR BRIONI horston.de, July 31, 2017
- ↑ Information on Brioni and known customers, Mens-Fashion website , accessed in August 2010
- ↑ Luxury is far from being democratized: Gerhard Schröder and his Brioni suits , berliner-zeitung.de, September 9, 2002
- ^ Chancellor in Kashmir , spiegel.de, March 29, 1999
- ↑ James Bond needs new clothes , stern.de, April 14, 2008
- ↑ Brioni facing drastic downsizing ( memento of the original from April 6, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, March 7, 2016
- ↑ Who is the most beautiful here? , welt.de, April 1, 2012
