Stollen (pastries)

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Stollen sale at the Dresden Christmas market

A tunnel or Stolle (from Old High German  Stollo , post ',' support ') is a bread-shaped cake made of heavy yeast feinteig . Valuable ingredients are fat and dried fruits (often sultanas ) or other fillings such as marzipan or poppy seeds. Generally, studs are made all year round. If they are produced or consumed during the Advent and Christmas season (as is traditionally predominant) , they are also referred to as Christmas stollen or Christmas stollen , without there being any fundamental differences in the recipe.

history

Naumburg guild privilege 1329

The oldest written occurrence of the word Stollen for a Christmas pastry is the mention in a guild privilege of the Naumburg bishop Heinrich I von Grünberg for the establishment of the baker's guild in the city. In the document, which was originally written in Latin, but has been lost and only survived in German translations, which presumably date from the 16th century, the Naumburg bakers are obliged to pay in kind as well as several taxes to be paid in cash reads as follows:

Have they vnd yrn descendants all the eternal […] evenings of the holy Crist [us] two long white breads, which are called stollen, made from half a bushel of Weysses vns vns and our descendants in our court have vowed to give together and to admit pass.

Accordingly, it was two long white breads made from half a bushel of wheat , but the certificate does not contain a recipe or a more detailed description. In the 14th century this was a luxurious Christmas catering, by today's standards it would be plentiful but simple baked goods that have little resemblance to today's Stollen.

Zeithainer giant tunnel 1730

An early example of a Stollen, whose basic recipe was probably more similar to today's pastries, is the large cake that was produced at great expense at the Zeithainer Lustlager , a magnificent troop show of August the Strong and sent to the Saxon on June 29, 1731 Troops was distributed. The several meters long cake (depending on the source 13 cubits long or larger) was referred to by contemporary reporters as "Butter-Stollen" or "Striezel". The dough is said to have been made from 18 bushels of flour, 82 shock (4920) eggs, 3 tons of milk, 1 ton of yeast and 1 ton of butter (compare old Saxon measures ); Sugar, raisins, almonds and spices are not mentioned. According to today's standards, a pastry with these proportions of ingredients would not be rich enough for a Stollen by far, but such a record cake cannot simply be viewed as an example of the general baking habits of the time.

Definitions

Depending on the region, era and tradition, there are different definitions for the tunnel:

  • The Christmas stollen or Christmas stollen (also called "Christmas roll") is a bread-like ("post-shaped") cake that - thickly covered with powdered sugar - is supposed to remind of the wrapped Christ child. The yeast dough mainly consists of a lot of butter, milk, flour, egg, spices (cardamom, cinnamon ) and deposits ( raisins , lemon peel , almonds ).
  • The new kitchen encyclopedia equates the Dresdner Stollen as a synonym with the Stollen or Christstollen.
  • According to the Brockhaus , the Stollen is a substantial, mostly elongated and flat-shaped pastry made from sweet yeast dough with other ingredients that vary according to tradition, which is usually sprinkled with powdered sugar or covered with a sugar glaze .

description

Cut Dresden Christmas stollen

Stollen are baked from a heavy, that is, high-fat and sweet yeast dough, which is made up of 30-60 parts fat, 10-20 parts sugar, 20-40 parts liquid, 6-10 parts yeast, 1-1.5 parts salt per 100 parts of wheat flour and contains 0-20 parts of whole egg. A stollen without additional additions (such as "poppy seed stollen") is a raisin stollen that contains 60–100 parts sultanas, 10–20 parts lemon peel and orange peel and 20–40 parts almonds; It is also possible to add up to 20 parts of marzipan paste.

According to the German Food Book, Stollen contain at least 30 parts butter or the corresponding amount of milk fat products or margarine or practically anhydrous fats and 60 parts sultanas or currants, citronate and orange peel per 100 parts of cereal products and / or starches.

In contrast to lighter yeast dough, indirect dough preparation is the rule with Stollen, with a relatively short pre- dough preparation of 30–60 minutes. at 24-28 ° C. The loaf is shaped in the traditional way by first long-knitting the dough, then folding it over and baking it pushed freely. However, it is also possible to put the long man in molds , boxes or hoods and bake it that way. Stollen bake after a short piece of cooked meat at a falling oven temperature of 230–240 ° C while baking to a final temperature of 190 ° C. If they are to be coated with sugar after baking, the loaves are coated with fat while they are still warm and then sprinkled with crystal sugar and then with powdered or decorative sugar .

Stollen can be kept for months. They are less prone to microbial spoilage unless they are made with a large amount of liquid or baked briefly to create a juicier crumb. However, if stored in the air for a long time, there is a risk that the fat contained or applied will become rancid ; against this, the packaging under protective gas has proven itself.

variants

poppy seed stollen
Almond Stollen

According to the German Food Book , “Stollen” are always raisin stollen without any additional additions. For every 100 parts of cereal and starch products , they contain 30 parts of butter, margarine or other milk fats and 60 parts of raisins, sultanas or currants, lemon peel and orange peel.

Apart from this basic shape of the tunnel, the guiding principles of the food book also know six other variants, some of which have additional requirements. The basic requirement of 30 parts fat applies to all except butter stollen (at least 40 parts butter) and quark stollen (at least 20 parts butter); Raisins, lemon peel and orange peel are common with marzipan / persipan, nut and butter stollen, otherwise optional. (For Nussstollen this wording of the grocery book is alien to life, since Nussstollen actually does not contain raisins. Neither the grocery trade nor the specialist literature follow this requirement.)

sorts

The requirements of the food book for the individual varieties are as follows, always based on 100 parts of cereal products and / or starches.

  • Almond stollen: at least 20 parts almonds
  • Marzipan stollen and persipan stollen: at least 5 percent of the dough weight of marzipan or persipan raw mass
  • Poppy seed stollen: at least 20 parts of poppy seeds , usually made into a poppy seed filling
  • Nut stollen: at least 20 parts of nut kernels , whole or chopped, usually made into a filling
  • Butter stollen: at least 40 parts butter or the corresponding amount of concentrated butter and / or concentrated butter and at least 70 parts of raisins, lemon peel and orange peel; A maximum of 10 parts of dried fruit can be replaced by almonds and / or a corresponding amount of marzipan paste
  • Quark stollen: at least 40 parts quark , cream cheese or the corresponding amount of dried quark products and at least 20 parts fat

Dresden Christmas stollen

Dresdner Stollen, Christ- and Weihnachtsstollen are protected geographical indications according to Regulation (EEC) No. 628/2008 of the European Commission

Dresdner Stollen is a particularly rich butter and raisin stollen. The designations Dresdner Stollen , Dresdner Christstollen and Dresdner Weihnachtsstollen were registered in 2010 at the request of Germany as a protected geographical indication under European law. Accordingly, these designations may only be used for studs that were produced in the greater Dresden area, namely in the towns of Moritzburg , Radebeul , Arnsdorf , Ottendorf-Okrilla , Radeburg , Coswig , Pirna , Wachau , Freital , Radeberg , Weinböhla and Heidenau , except in Dresden . According to the product specification, Dresdner Stollen may not be baked in molds and must contain at least 50 parts butter, 65 parts sultanas, 20 parts orange peel and / or citron pate and 15 parts almonds per 100 parts flour, but margarine or artificial preservatives and flavorings are not allowed. In addition, certain requirements are placed on the labeling and design of the packaging.

The three names mentioned are also registered as collective trademarks at the German Patent and Trademark Office . The trademark protection association “Dresdner Stollen” e. V., in which approx. 120 manufacturers from Dresden and the surrounding area are united. The association ensures that the brands are only used for studs that have been manufactured in the affected area and meet the requirements; In addition, he regularly organizes “Stollen Examinations” with high public appeal, chooses a “Stollen Maiden” every year and otherwise markets Dresden Stollen.

The largest manufacturer of Dresden Christmas stollen is the company Dr. Quendt with 1.6 million tunnels annually (data from 2014).

The use of butter is said to go back to the " Dresdner Butterbrief " issued by Pope Innocent VIII in 1491 .

Tunnel signs

Tunnel signs belonging to the Scharrmann family, around 1980. Place of use: Grimma, Saxony. Stock of the MEK .

Stollen signs were used during baking to mark the stollen at the baker's, which the baker had made from the dough prepared by the housewife or from the ingredients according to her recipe. Baking the stollen according to a family recipe at the bakery was common in Saxony and Thuringia in many families until the fall of the Wall . Since the baker baked the stollen of several families at the same time, the stollen were marked after the dough was formed so that mix-ups were impossible. The labels were baked and only removed at home.

Web links

Commons : Stollen  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Christstollen  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

See also

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Eckhard Supp : The Brockhaus Kochkunst. P. 519, Brockhaus, Mannheim 2008, ISBN 3-7653-3281-X .
  2. ↑ stolle, f. In: Jacob Grimm , Wilhelm Grimm (Hrsg.): German dictionary . tape 19 : Stob – Strollen - (X, 3rd division). S. Hirzel, Leipzig 1957, Sp. 199 ( woerterbuchnetz.de ).
  3. ↑ Was the Christmas cake invented in Naumburg? Stadtmuseum Naumburg, accessed on December 30, 2013 .
  4. ↑ So the "Kurtze message from the in whole Europe famous, d. June 25, 1730 at Moritz bey Risa in Saxony happily baked, 13 ells long butter stollen “, quoted by Hans Beschorner : Descriptions and illustrations of the Zeithainer camp from 1730. In: Hubert Ermisch (Ed.): New archive for Saxon history and antiquity. Vol. 27, Baensch, Dresden 1906, p. 109 ( online ); as well as an engraving by Elias Baeck , quoted in. ibid. p. 139, who speaks of a “Strietz” and “Stritzel”
  5. ↑ Karl August Engelhardt : The great campement near Zeithayn and Radewitz in the Mühlberger area 1730. Lager-Buchdruckerei, Mühlberg 1803. The corresponding passage is reproduced in: Paul Arras : Pictures from the Saxon History. For school and home. Leipzig, Veit & Comp. 1889 ( online )
  6. ^ Max Döllner : History of the development of the city of Neustadt an der Aisch until 1933. 1950; 2nd edition, Ph. CW Schmidt, Neustadt an der Aisch 1978, ISBN 3-87707-013-2 , p. 344.
  7. ^ Friedrich Kluge , Alfred Götze : Etymological dictionary of the German language . 20th ed., Ed. by Walther Mitzka , De Gruyter, Berlin / New York 1967; Reprint (“21st unchanged edition”) ibid 1975, ISBN 3-11-005709-3 , p. 752.
  8. ↑ Hans-Joachim Rose (arrangement), Ralf Frenzel (ed.): Kitchen Bible . Encyclopedia of Culinary Studies. Tre Torri Verlag, Wiesbaden 2007, ISBN 978-3-937963-41-9 .
  9. ↑ Erhard Gorys : The new kitchen dictionary . 10th edition. dtv, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-423-36245-6 .
  10. ↑ a b Udo Hanneforth: Production of fine baked goods. In: Wilfried Seibel (Ed.): Fine baked goods. 2nd Edition. Behr, Hamburg 2001, ISBN 3-86022-852-8 , pp. 129-130
  11. ↑ German Food Book, Guidelines for Fine Baked Goods , Section II 9
  12. ↑ Gottfried Spicher: Packaging and storage. In: Wilfried Seibel (Ed.): Fine baked goods. 2nd Edition. Behr, Hamburg 2001, ISBN 3-86022-852-8 , pp. 188-190
  13. ↑ German Food Book, Guidelines for Fine Baked Goods , Section II 9
  14. ↑ Regulation (EU) No. 1098/2010 for the registration of the g. G. A. "Dresdner Stollen" etc.
  15. ↑ Publication of the application for the protection of the designation "Dresdner Stollen" etc. in the Official Journal of the European Union with precise product specifications
  16. ↑ Information on the Dresdner Stollen trademark  in the register of the German Patent and Trademark Office (DPMA)
  17. ↑ Information on the Dresdner Christstollen brand  in the register of the German Patent and Trademark Office (DPMA)
  18. ↑ Information on the Dresden Christmas Stollen brand  in the register of the German Patent and Trademark Office (DPMA)
  19. ↑ Website of the protection association “Dresdner Stollen” e. V.
  20. ↑ Michael Rothe: Large cut with Dr. Quendt . In: Saxon newspaper . September 10, 2014 ( sz-online.de ).
  21. ↑ Inventory of the Museum of European Cultures.