Fur finishing

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Naomi Campbell , short coat with skirt from multicolor colored gold fox fur (2014)

In a narrower sense, in the tobacco products industry under fur finishing or tobacco products, decoration , Austrian Rauwarenveredlung , the further change of the skins according to the Preparation of fur understood prior to its final processing to furs. Today, the term often broadly also includes dressing. The main possibilities of fur finishing are, among others, dyeing, scissors, plucking of the hair and velvety and napping of the leather side of the skin.

For the actual dressing, the tanning of the skins, see the main article → Fur dressing .

Costume made of fur , dyed and sheared to different heights (Germany 2006)

history

The dyeing of skins was not only common in ancient Rome. The local preference for light hair colors was also carried over to the furs, the much used henna for hair dye was also used for fur dyeing. Furriers and tanners were still united in one guild in Rome.

For a long time, however, beautifying the furs by touching up the color was considered dishonest and was punished severely, the dyeing of fur was even completely prohibited. The furriers were of the opinion that they were cheating if they gave certain skins such a color as if they were natural and sold them in return for torture, sables, black foxes and the like . Greek fur traders based in Moscow were regarded as perfect masters in the art of refining small pelts with an artificial coating . The Siberian hunters were also said to be very skilled at dyeing sable hides with lead shot , which they put into the fur and then shake so that the fur becomes evenly dark . Others hung them in the smoke, but most would be so clumsy that a professional could easily spot the fraud. These attempts at improvement were not surprising, especially with sable fur, after all, it was said that the price in Russia was 1 ruble for a very small fur, but up to 180 rubles for a top quality at the time. In 1572 a furrier was forbidden by the Electoral Saxon Chamber to set up a sable dyeing factory.

Velvet mink jacket, dyed, sheared and with lasered pattern (2013)

Ultimately, however, the realization prevailed that permanent re-dyeing of skins is only to be regarded as a fraud if the customer is not informed of this change. This also applies to the historically next step, the imitation of more expensive types of fur through the refinement of cheap, because there are massive varieties (for example rabbits as seals or sables). As the fur increasingly reached the common people and at the same time became a product of fashion, the color of skins began to be adapted to current tastes, the development of new, better lightfast and aging-resistant colors favored this development.

Long before the furriers of the western world, the idea of ​​plucking out the hard awn from the corresponding types of fur was in China, so that a very soft, velvety fur was created. In its natural state, for example, nutria fur is very unattractive because of its long, not beautifully colored awns. The fact that when plucking the guard hairs always break off and ugly-looking "stumps" remain in the fur, initially prevented this type of fur from becoming more widespread in modern times. It was not until around 1880 that the top hair was removed using a sweat process during dressing with the so-called "rumbling" that the consumption increased "tremendously". The internal processes of rumbling, the removal of the awns, were initially closely guarded secrets of some companies; a Leipzig company even had it patented.

Remarkable advances in fur finishing, especially fur dyeing, were only possible after finishing had broken away from the furrier and had become an independent branch of industry. In the second half of the 19th century, following the general progress in finishing technology, some of the larger dressing companies had set up blinding and dyeing departments. Around 1900, however, the proportion of natural pelts still far outweighed the number of dyed pelts, and in the 20th century, for example, with the black dyeing of rabbits and Persians as well as the dyeing in fashion colors. Until the end of the Second World War , the German fur trimming and finishing companies were essentially located around the world fur trade center of Leipzig's Brühl , especially in Rötha , Schkeuditz , Markranstädt and in Weißenfels . There were only a few companies in the rest of Germany around 1920, the most important in Chemnitz, Berlin and Hamburg. After the war, a new, smaller concentration formed around the newly established fur trading center Niddastraße in Frankfurt am Main, in 1983 there were eight companies with headquarters or branches in Frankfurt and one in Offenbach. 40 percent of the world's raw hide harvest was refined by Frankfurt companies at that time.

The mechanical drive of devices, such as lauter tuns and fulling machines, was initially done very occasionally by water power. Of greater importance was the introduction of steam power , which was used more and more since the middle of the 19th century. This not only increased productivity to a considerable extent. It was now possible to set up the businesses on favorable traffic routes or other useful locations without having to rely on accumulative, running water.

The German paint industry was also particularly active in the special field of fur dyes until after the Second World War .

Towards the end of the 20th century, a fashion that generally favored the velvety appearance of plucked or sheared furs was repeated. Was it the the plucked in the first half of the 20th century still finishing types sealskin mimicked how Sealkanin , Sealbisam etc., were now in addition to the now Samtbisam, Samtnutria etc. Finishing mentioned even noble hides that were actually ungeruft great demand, especially the velvet mink . The particularly deep-shorn mink is sometimes traded as cashmere mink, based on the term velvet mink.

Around the year 2000, the first laser-cut furs were offered at the Mifur fur fair in Milan . The hair is singed at different heights, in places down to the leather base, in patterns given by designers. This look, which in the early days often seemed a little less valuable, was favored by a general fashion trend that has persisted since the 1970s, which for the first time favored artificially aged or even torn clothing and brought it onto the market (fashion styles such as grunge , punk, etc.).

Finishing the hair side

Advertisement for Adolf Petzold tobacco goods finishing and dyeing works in Leipzig (1943)
Persian dye works of the Thorer company, Leipzig (1912)

Killing the skins

The pre-treatment of the fur with alkaline chemicals, during which the residues of natural fats and fatty substances are removed from the hair, is what the tobacco manufacturer calls killing. Without this treatment, the dyeing process would be disrupted. At the same time, the harmful acids still in the leather from the finishing are neutralized.

The killing can be done by brushing or dunking in fur turning or reels. Chemicals such as soda or ammonia , and in special cases caustic soda , potassium hydroxide or white lime are used for the killing process . Additions of fur detergents improve the effect. Because of the different structure of the hair, depending on the type of fur, the smoker must monitor the effects of the killing on the fur with a microscope.

Pretreating the fur skins with metal stains containing glyoxylic acid renders the previously common killing process superfluous.

Pickling

The dyes, which are mainly used for dyeing fur, do not form a firm bond with the hair without prior processing, but are deposited on the hair surface. That is why they are treated with certain metal salts that are used as color stains. These are deposited in the cortical substance of the hair and in the hair pulp and in some cases even form compounds with the protein body. A connection is created with the dyes, which is completely insoluble in water and is referred to as a colored lacquer. The staining prior to dyeing also gives the fur properties such as fastness to rubbing, light, storage and sublimation . The stain also allows the dyes to be absorbed much more evenly during dyeing and creates the possibility of varying the color tones by using different stain salts.

The metal salts potassium dichromate , copper sulfate and iron sulfate are particularly suitable as stains . Each of the salts gives the color lacquer that is formed a specific color of its own.

bleaching

Bleaching affects the elasticity of the hair, making it more fragile. Therefore, whenever possible, skins are used in which the natural color is such that bleaching is not necessary or only necessary to a limited extent. Sometimes, however, dark-colored or multi-colored skins should be brought to a uniform shade. In order to protect the fur, attempts are made to adapt the intensity of the bleaching to the desired color.

In the refinement of tobacco products, two bleaching processes are used and often combined with one another, oxidation and reduction bleaching , with the former being preferred. With it, the pigments are converted into colorless oxides or destroyed by the action of free oxygen on the hair . Both processes can be used both in the coating process and in the dunking process.

In the case of skins with guard hair, the outer hair is bleached by spreading stronger ammonia-containing hydrogen peroxide solutions. If the under hair has to be bleached too, this is often followed by a dye bleaching process, and if there is a greater need for bleaching, a subsequent bleaching process.

After the bleaching, the skins can be dyed.

Beautiful

On the one hand, the lightening of skins that are not pure white or yellowed is called beautiful (for white fox , white or blackcross (white with black) mink, ermine , etc.), depending on the degree of yellowing and the assessment by the refiner. Not entirely pure white or cross mink is given an opalescent (bluish-white) shimmer with optical brighteners or by blueing :

  1. Through oxidative and / or reductive bleaching with optical brighteners that drown out the yellow tinge.
  2. By treatment with a reddish blue dye.

In addition, the term includes reinforcing, natural color , here the light undercoat is matched in color to the darker upper hair during the dressing, the leather remains white or ivory and the natural character is retained. It was used in particular on Russian mink, which in the early days often had a very light undercoat. The process of darkening using ferrous salts , which was developed by Australian wool researchers between 1946 and 1948, was first used by Italian refiners for nutria skins . The specialized trade regards the skins treated in this way as natural.

In the so-called double reinforcing , the chemical process used differs completely from the above, the color of the undercoat is even more closely matched, and the coat becomes darker overall, recognizable by the leather, which is also darkened.

To dye

Canine boards after dyeing (2010)

Originally only changes to the natural hair color were made in order to adapt the skins considered to be of lower value to the appearance of the more expensive and better-selling qualities of the same type of coat. The tobacco shop differentiates between more “red” and more “blue”, darker skins, whereby the blue ones are usually considered to be more valuable. This not only corresponds to the human sense of beauty, but the reddish skins of the same origin come from animals that have come away from more sun. Or it is even about summer coats, which are less dense in the coat and are often more brittle in the hair due to the bleaching due to solar radiation (technical terminology for the overall impression of the hair structure: less "smoke").

Types of fur that are unappealing in their natural color are made more attractive by coloring, for example marbles .

Pelts in which the natural colors of a seizure vary so much that no furrier assortments can be put together are dyed so that a greater number of the same is available for large items of clothing. For example, this used to be more common in moles or skunks .

Simple types of fur are colored so that they resemble the noble types of fur.

New dyeing methods combined with bleaching make it possible to produce any desired shade of color, even if not on every starting material.

The dyeing is done using the dunking process, in pelt turning or in reels. The temperature of the dye liquor is usually around 30 to 33 degrees. The duration generally depends on the shade you want to achieve and the character of the fur material. Skins with hard guard hair take on the color more difficult than those with wool hair . With all dip dyeing, the skins must be constantly moved.

The paint residues are then thoroughly rinsed out in the washing barrel. As water pulling the subsequent elongating the skins will be referred to with which the excess water is removed and smoothed the leather side.

  • Old dye samples from rabbit fur of the inking works vorm. Master Lucius & Brüning, Hoechst am Main (later Hoechst AG )

Ceilings, panels

When covering, the paint is applied with a brush using a brush. The basic color can also have been achieved artificially using the dipping process. A different colored tip can then be dyed over the blanket.

The only darkening of the natural coat color in the brushing process is called blinding. Here, only the upper hair is colored, which often resembles natural hair coloring as a result. In addition, the leather does not come into contact with the color, which is important, for example, when dyeing seal skins , where the leather quality is changed during the dyeing process.

Gawk

Detail from a colored marble slab with multiple grots

As Grotzen the tobacco product specialist, is the coat back line from the head to Pumpf running (the fur rump). In most fur animals, the groan is darker than the rest of the hull. This color difference is at least partially lost during dyeing or bleaching. By groaning, applying a concentrated application of paint with the spray gun, possibly with reworking the transitions with the brush, the groan is emphasized again or reinforced compared to the natural coloring in order to achieve a livelier, more pleasing and natural look in the later fur part.

Grooting is also used in the imitation of more valuable types of fur. For example, in the appropriate fashion , skins that have already been assembled into so-called bodies , such as marbles , muskrats or rabbit fur, are dyed brown and then provided with several grunts per skin, so that sometimes the appearance of narrow-striped exuberant mink clothing is created. These are then sold as mink marbles, mink bisam, mink rabbit, etc.

To press

Marble skins, printed with jaguar on the left, natural color on the right

Interesting types of fur, such as the spotted cat types, can be imitated in the pattern by printing. However, any other conceivable pattern can also be produced and produced according to the designers' templates. Especially for fur lining borrowed motifs are popular for the substance fashion, such as houndstooth and glen . Printing techniques were initially plate printing, then roller printing and later screen printing. Simple patterns such as dots, rings or strips spotted for example imitations fur species can, with templates ( stenciling be applied) with pressure and sticks to the hair.

Calf , horse , lamb and sheepskins as well as rabbit and kidskins are particularly suitable for printing , but even finer types of fur such as mink are provided with print patterns. The dyes are applied in a thickened form so that the print has sharp contours.

The simplest technique is stencil printing with zinc or iron sheet stencils, in which the paint is sprayed on or applied with a brush.

Film printing can be used on flat heads to achieve finer contours. The stencils consist of nylon or bronze wire mesh attached to a frame. The patterns are photomechanically applied to the fabric and then fixed with a stencil print. With a squeegee made of hard rubber or wood, the paint is applied to the heads through the applied film printing stencil.

For thick-haired fur such as lamb or sheepskin, printing with the wooden model has proven itself. Here you can apply the color down to the hair root by applying intense pressure, while the other methods only produce a more or less superficial print. After drying and refining with wood flour, these skins are lightly sheared again.

Scissors, plucking, lasers

With the various plucking techniques, only the harder upper hair is removed. Guard hairs are removed today by sweating, rumbling, plucking and shaving with the appropriate machines.

When shearing, depending on the height of the shear, a distinction is made between high shear, in which generally only the awn is sheared, and deep shear with different shear heights. Plucking and scissors can also be combined by shaving the plucked fur afterwards. The respective shear height depends on the type of coat, the coat quality and the natural color.

There is a specialty in the finishing of beaver pelts . In some of the fur refined as a guard beaver, it can be seen that the undercoat on the flanks (sides) is bluish. This effect is reinforced by a special deep shearing after plucking, so that at the end the so-called “phantom beaver” with a dark brown back and bluish-gray sides results.

With special machines, grooves and checked patterns can be sheared (grooved canine). Automatic shearers, as used in the textile industry, also allow very special patterns. In the case of skins where the hair is colored differently at different heights, interesting relief-like color patterns result from effect shearing. The different coloring within a hair occurs naturally, but it can also be produced artificially with different coloring methods before shearing.

With lasers, the hair is seared at different heights, in places down to the leather base, with the laser processing machine in pre-programmed patterns.

sharpen

Pointing is the use of light hair in imitations of silver foxes by other types of fur, a technique that was particularly popular in the 1910s to 1930s, around the First World War , when silver fox skins fetched unusually high prices due to fashion.

Final treatment

To make the color rubbing- proof , the skins are moved in the rotating lautering barrel with wet hardwood shavings during the moist lautering . After dyeing, the dried hair fall loose not optimal, but stick through despite the best lingerie adhesion together. They only loosen again through mechanical rubbing and tapping. This is also done in the lauter tun with dry hardwood shavings or flour, the purification (possibly mixed with volatile solvents and gloss-enhancing agents) and the subsequent shaking in the shaking tub and possible knocking out with the tapping machine.

Between the moist and good lautering, work steps must be carried out in which the skins are made soft and swift. This is done either by hand, but above all by machine by stretching, stollen, baking and pulling around.

The final reworking, originally with a furrier's comb or, if necessary, with a wire brush, is now largely done by machine (room machines, scraping, tapping machines). This individual cleaning , known as cleaning, corresponds to the final treatment of the just trimmed pelts. Certain fur and finishing work also require the hair to be tightened and shined with the ironing machine.

The sorting and bundling of the skins according to size and appearance is usually done by the client for subcontracts.

Finishing of the leather side

Bleached mink jacket ("Goldnerz") with printed leather side (Italy, 2004)

Velor finishing

Velor furs are made by grinding the leather side by machine. This differs from the velor of the leather industry in that the hair side and not the much less smooth and therefore more difficult to work carrion side is sanded there. The velor fur can be made water-repellent to a certain extent by impregnating the leather.

Nappa finishing

Nappa finishing (nappatizing, nappalan) is always preceded by velouting. Lambskins are preferred for this, but it is also frequently used in the wild fur area ( mink , opossum, etc.). In order to achieve good wearing properties, the leather should first be dyed in the desired color. The paint can then be applied either colorless or in the same color, usually by spraying.

The nappa finish can be carried out in different variations. With Reaniline, the suede is dyed, the natural irregularities remain visible. In addition, all possible effects are possible, from glossy opaque to matt, multi-color effects, metal effects, foil coating and embossing as well as high-gloss lacquer finishing. The essence of a good nappa dressing is not to create a synthetic leather effect, and the fur should remain soft and supple.

Waxy finishing

For longer than in Central Europe, fur leather was coated with wax-like agents instead of nappa refined in other countries. However, these coatings do not achieve the good wearing properties of nappa.

To press

Screen printing machine in fur finishing (2010)

The patterns created by designers and desired by the respective fashion can be applied to velor and nappa fur using the screen printing process. Nappa-like coatings with printed foils are also occasionally on the market.

Machines in tobacco product finishing

In addition to the equipment described for → tobacco product finishing, the following machines can be used in tobacco product finishing  :

  • The washing barrel is similar in construction to the shaking barrel. It only differs in that it hangs up to a third in a basin or tub that can be filled with clean water.
  • The centrifuge , the Driesel apparatus, is used in the tobacco dyeing and finishing shop to spin out and pre-dry the wet skins.
  • Shearing and plucking machines are used in a particularly wide variety.
    • The normal clipper for easy shearing in adjustable cutting heights.
    • The bevel shearer for beavers.
    • The groove shearing machine for achieving moiré effects.
    • Computer- controlled automatic shearers , as they are also used in the textile industry, make it possible today to achieve a variety of patterns.
    • Laser processing machines are also used for effect shearing (possibly not in the tobacco processing companies themselves?).
    • The epilation machine , also known as a machine , is a specialty. An up and down shearing device only cuts off the guard hairs protruding through a combing roller (Sealkanin, Biberettekanin).
  • In the headlock the pelts before the rumbling at elevated temperature be mounted.
    • On lumber iron the skins are entgrannt after sweating (rumbling).
    • The lumber machine removes the awns machine, as it can to remove the Restgrannen be furnished to the rumbling by hand. The razor removes the remaining awns by hand.
  • With the seal coating machine , the paint is applied mechanically to the skins with rotating brushes.
  • There are cleaning machines in particular for coaxing sheep, lamb and similar skins, but also for combing rabbit skins, for example.
  • With the fur ironing machine , gloss effects are achieved by stretching the hair and smoothing the surface of the hair on sheepskins, lambskins, plucked or sheared nutria and others.
  • Sanding wheels provided with sandpaper give the hide on the carcass side a velor-like texture.
  • Devices of the fur finisher in 1914

  • "Machine for milling off the layers of meat"

  • "Machine for rolling lubricated tobacco products"

  • "Machine for spin-drying wet tobacco products"

  • "Skin press for manual operation"

  • "Drying cabinet for any quantity of tobacco products in manufacture"

Timetable

" Machine for removing water hair from seals, otters, beavers, rabbits, etc. " (approx. 1902)
Fashion colors through anionic dyes on white rabbit fur from Farbwerke Hoechst

A list of the initial patents for fur dyeing (October 26, 1888 to September 27, 1922) can be found in: Walter Pense: Rauchwaren . Springer-Verlag, Vienna 1955.

  • 12th Century

"... By the way, it should be noted here that at least in the twelfth century people knew how to dye smoky works. It seems that it was mostly colored red; one finds pelles rubricates arietum, that is, red-colored sheepskins; but DU CANGE thinks he can show that torture and ermine have also been colored red. I want to believe this about ermine, but this dyeing would hardly be possible with the dark tortures and sables. The salvation. BERNHARD in the twelfth century says that such red-colored furs were called gulae, which word in the old poets with Hermin engoldé, for red-colored ermine, seems to be a single word ... "

- Johann Beckmann
  • In 1713 the sable dyer Anton Erstenberger was mentioned in the Leipzig address book, who lived on Ritterstrasse. While in 1849 there was supposedly no special fur dresser in Leipzig, thirty years later there were 66 independent dressers and 13 fur dyers in Weissenfels , Rötha , Schkeuditz and various other places near Leipzig.
  • In 1765 De la Lande described the first combination tanning, which retanned alaungar hides with an oak bark broth. The procedure came from Denmark. The first iron tanning attempts by Bautsch, Johnson and Ashton (1770 to 1794) were made during this period, but they did not lead to any useful results.
  • 1796 succeeded the Englishman Thomas Chapman Seal skins to de-awning , a technique that had long been known in China.
  • 1830 succeeded in Paris for the first time the blackening of difficult to be dyed Seal skins . Developed further in Germany in 1870 , it was still very cumbersome and very complex with more than 20 coats of the top color.
  • In the 1870s, the Leipziger Markthelfer Mandel is said to have succeeded for the first time in attempts to refine Persian skins with wood dyes in a glossy deep black . 1900. is given as the date for the introduction in the refinement of tobacco products. Franke dates the first black dyeing of lambskins to "around 1850, soon also to white Siberian rabbits".
  • In 1881 brown dyeing was achieved in Markranstädt (company H. Steinbeck). An employee brought the recipe back from his previous job in London.
The machine for removing guard hair , initially seal fur, is applied for a patent by the brothers Gustave and Ferdinand F. Cimietti, who emigrated to America from Vienna.
  • In 1888 , tobacco dyeing made decisive progress when the German chemist H. Erdmann registered the patent for real developing dyes. The invention, initially intended for human hair coloring and the dyeing of feathers, created the basis for the oxidation dyeing of fur, which later became a matter of course.
  • 1890 Invention of the oxidation paints (Germany).
  • In 1894 the corporation for aniline dyes brought the first three dyes based on this into the market under the name Ursole . The initial problems caused by a lack of color fastness and staining were later resolved with the introduction of metal stain. Around 1910 , the ursol dyeing industry established itself in tobacco dyeing (aniline black 1902 for Seal in England, 1905 for Kanin in Germany, 1908 for muskrat in the USA).
  • 1900 will clipper in France used for Kanin (N. Cimciotti).
  • In 1905 , the Jeute thin cutting machine was introduced in Markranstädt . The workers feared for their livelihood and agreed that no one wanted to work on the “Iron Man”. Therefore, people willing to work were brought in from Leipzig and led to the factories under police protection. The secretary of the factory workers' association, Max Rost, the functionaries Harnisch and Chemnitz and a few others were then sentenced to three to five years in prison for breach of the peace. - The patent-protected machine built by the Paris-based company Tanner & Cie was rented by the Jeute company for a monthly fee of ten marks. In 1915 , Theodor Thorer registered a new patent for an improved machine. As a tightly organized organization, the dressers enforced collective agreements. In 1911 there was another strike, but since then the machines have been accepted as an indispensable tool in finishing.
  • 1908 bleaching process on ermine fur (Germany).
  • 1921-1925 , bleaching with iron stain (Austin; USA). Around 1923 it was possible to lighten the brown-black fur blanket of American possums more or less by using a bar screen , with which the type of fur rose to the most important trimmings for four years (refining names: pine marten, stone marten, blue fox opossum ; refining companies: Bringezu in Schkeuditz, Kunath in Leipzig). In the mid-1930s, the silver fox opossum replaced the pale nuances. After it was possible to bleach pelts without unduly damaging the hair, dark pelts could also be dyed to pastel colors.
  • In 1923 the first lead peelable paints are used in Germany (Germany).
  • 1930 Introduction of synthetic detergents instead of soaps . This eliminates the need to be close to “real”, soft water, which is also important for fur trimmers because it saves costs. Soft water guaranteed until then a lighter, cheaper and better operation over an operating water with degrees of hardness ( lime , magnesia ), or levels of iron , manganese , aggressive carbonic acid , etc. Today, the range of anionic , cationic and non-ionic detergents, wetting agents , emulsifiers , fatliquors , Preparation agents and complexing agents (e.g. polyphosphates ), etc. so comprehensively that good finishing results can also be achieved with well water with a higher degree of hardness (e.g. 20 °  dH and more).
  • 1930 boil dyeings (Colara process) (Germany).
  • 1930 Indian lamb becomes known on the fur market. The primary finishing services were provided by Märkle in Taucha near Leipzig and Lohse in Naunhof. They succeeded in dyeing the skins, which are very different in nature, as uniform as possible. In particular, gray-white in the style of the natural Persian and brown nuances, after 1945 also ombré colors , made the Indian lamb and similar lambskins into a mass product of the fur industry at that time.
  • 1930 Dr. Müller developed an ironing machine with stretch effects, which are accompanied by appropriate luster liquids (Leipzig).
  • 1932 Use of formaldehyde for beaver lamb (Pannonia company, Hungary).
  • 1932 use of iron stain for bleached muskrat (England; 1934 for Canadian Feh in the USA).
  • 1933 Invention of ursatine , real color developing dyes for lambskins (IG Farben, Germany).
  • 1933 American opossum is refined on Silberfuchs . A reservation method with the help of melted wax-paraffin mixtures is used for production.
  • 1935 Biber shears; "Light as a feather" . (UNITED STATES).
1935 Shaded furs , later referred to as degradé colors , are introduced as a further development of the "popular shading colors ". The skins are tinted in such a way that they are kept lighter in the upper area, with a gentle and gradual color transition (Germany).
  • In 1937 , the Stockhausen Chemical Factory in Krefeld brought the first fully electrolyte-resistant fatliquor onto the market. This made it possible to combine several finishing operations in one work step.
  • In 1946/1948 Australian wool researchers developed a method of darkening hair using ferrous salts , which was first used by Italian refiners for nutria pelts . The common term used in the tobacco industry for this is "Reinforcing".
  • 1949 Satin effect on rabbit fur (Great Britain).
  • 1950 White mink bleaching process (Great Britain).
  • 1950 bleaching process and pastel colors for Persians (Germany).
  • 1953 Bleaching process and dyeing for beavers (USA).
  • 1953 White bleaching process for Muskrat and Feh (England).
  • 1955 Reservation procedure for Gotland lamb , mechanical degreasing of sheepskins (German material, Swedish development).
  • 1955 Spray machine for applying the opaque paints (Germany).
  • 1957 Improvement of the natural color of beavers (Italy).
  • 1957 lubricating machine (Germany).
  • 1957 Reinforce procedure on Biberfell (Italy).
  • 1957 (1959?) "Non-Bleach" treatment for Persians (England).
  • 1961 Mink stretching machine (Germany).
  • 1962 roller stretching machine (Germany).
  • 1962 biton dyes in ombré design on natural black Persians; Triton stains on Persians (Germany). Due to the change in pigment, the curl humps on what are actually naturally black noble lambskins turn light or different in color, which results in interesting double color effects.
  • 1963 Fantasy dyeing on natural gray Persians (after a special leveling process) (Germany). Opaque colors on lambskins according to a special authenticity process (Germany).
  • 1963 Persian and broad-tailed shearing on Lincoln lamb (Germany).
  • 1963 Dyeing using the cold pad process (Germany).
  • 1967 Brown discoloration on piebalds without bleach (Germany).
  • 1967 Mink turning machine (Germany).
  • 1968 Wittmaschine (Germany).
  • 1969 countercurrent washing plant (Germany).
  • 1970 Shadow staining (Germany).
  • 1971 Polychrome staining in a single bath process (Germany).
  • In 1973 , at the time of the Frankfurt Fur Fair, the International Fur Refiners Association was founded.
  • In 2015 , in a collaboration between a German “luxury maker” and the teaching and development workshop of a Danish fur auction company, a single mink fur was permanently coated with 24-carat gold and then processed into a fur jacket. Gilded beaver and nutria pelts had already been shown in 1925, referred to in the industry as the " Golden Fleece " , probably mockingly : "Their fate was then to be shown only as a curiosity in the shop windows".

Fur dressing and finishing center Leipzig

  • Establishments in Leipzig
    • 1875 : 10 finishing shops with 259 employees
    • 1882 : 66 finishing shops with 710 employees
    • 1875 : 4 dye works with 40 employees
    • 1882 : 13 dye works with 169 employees
    • In 1894 there were 28 processing companies in Leipzig alone with 1644 employees.
  • In 1887 , 4,9,000,000 skins were trimmed in the Leipzig area, and the wages for the finisher were 749,000 marks. The value of the raw hides was around 9,220,000 marks. 1,850,000 skins were dyed black that year - mainly lambs of various kinds - whose dressing and dyeing wages amounted to 480,000 marks.
  • 1896-1928 (fold-out tables):
Established between 1896 and 1928 in the Leipzig area and the number of employees
In the year Companies in
total		 of which
craft
businesses		 Power plants technically
employed
persons
overall		 of which
male		 of which
female
1896 68 7th 61 Up until 1964
, the number of
people employed was
not subject to reporting
1897 74 8th 66
1898 74 9 65
1899 71 9 62
1900 76 9 67
1901 78 8th 70
1902 81 8th 73
1903 84 7th 77
1904 90 7th 83
1905 106 7th 99 3552 And 1913 was
no separation of
persons employed
in reporting
made
1906 114 7th 107 3657
1907 124 7th 117 3434
1908 124 6th 118 3435
1909 124 7th 117 4037
1910 138 8th 130 4090
1911 150 9 141 3910
1912 154 7th 147 4188
1913 167 7th 160 4142
1914 163 4th 159 4259 2941 1318
1915 151 3 158 2982 1842 1140
1916 147 1 146 2772 1458 1314
1917 147 1 146 2998 1487 1511
1918 146 1 145 2848 1401 1447
1919 170 3 167 3426 1781 1645
1920 175 3 172 4901 2487 2414
1921 208 3 205 5687 3013 2674
1922 247 3 244 8243 3921 4322
1923 269 3 266 7855 4089 3766
1924 277 3 274 6746 3732 3014
1925 280 3 277 7041 3877 3164
1926 266 3 266 5437 3160 2277
1927 254 3 251 7898 3949 3949
1928 251 3 248 8244 4170 4074
Price list of the Association of United Smokers' Preparing and Dyeing Owners in Germany
from 1902
1. For dressing
Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies
a) Wild goods Clip slate 20th Grebes , great 15th Lynxes 100 Sea otters 1000 Haid-schnucken 100 Transylvanians with strokes 3–4 55
Monkeys 50 purify 4th Guanaco 100 russian 125 Milk- 300 with strokes 80-100 with swipe 5 65
Angora cats 30th wet 10 Rabbits , prepare 15th -Wammen 60 Skunks 20th Haide-Schmaschen 16 Spanish tastes 18th
Bears , little ones 300 Fallow deer 300 purify 3 move 45 tiger 1000 Dutch Schmaschen 20th Trieste 20th
m.-large 400 Polar bears , big ones 1500 ermine 12 Marten m. Tail wolverine 100 Lambskins 25th Tyrolean 100
size 800 small 1000 Dogs , Siberian 75 Tree, stone and Japan. 25th Wallabies , little ones 30th Icelanders Schmaschen 20th with strokes 150
Beavers , little ones 65 Back lining, clean 50 Germans by agreement size 50 Capybara 30th Lambskins 25th Ukrainians 30th
m.-large 85 Fehwammenfutter, pure. 50 Polecat , Virginian 90 moles 12 Wenuks [?] 20th Sheepskins 100
size 100 Foals , little ones 100 Country- 20th Musk ox 700 Wolves , russian 200 Krimmer 30th
purify, little ones 10 size 200 freshen up 6th marble 15th american small 100 freshen up 15th
m.-large 15th Foxes , land 30th Irbis 400 Tarbagans 18th american great 150 Latschatzo [?] 25th
size 15th Putty- 30th Kangaroo , little one 50 Native cats 15th Wombat 50 Messinese 20th
and refresh russian 40 medium 75 Mink 20th zebra 1000 Moldovans as well as Transylvanians
small 15th virgin 40 size 100 freshen up 10 Goats , Germans 100 Fur skins 40
size 20th Japanese country 35 Kangaroo rats 15th Tails 6th Angora- 300 with strokes, great 75
Muskrat 14th Semolina 30th Rabbit 18th japanese (weasel) 12 Sable , american 30th medium sized 65
Muskrat , kitten 11 Lake- 35 silver 20th Nutria , prepar., Depilated. 50 russian 50 small 55
black 15th White- 45 Cats 16 Otter , land, virgin. 100 Other skins by agreement Persians 25th
russian 15th Steppe 50 russian 18th Milk- 40 gray 30th
-Clean lining 50 Blue- 100 Wild- 40 Opossum , australian, americ. 15th b) sheepskins eject 18th
-Move 10 Cross- 100 Italian wild 40 Victoria, Tasmanian 15th Broad tails 20th Romans 30th
Dewlaps 8th silver 150 Genette - 18th Tails 3 Basques without painting 35 Saltskins 20th
Bischicky [= Pijiki (?)] 75 Rind 25th Civeth 15th Ocelots 60 with strokes 50 with strokes 35
Berwitzky [Perwitzky = Tigeriltis] 15th Purify raw, turn over 15th Lynx- 75 Panther 500 Banat as well as Basques Sardinian 20th
Buffalo , great 1000 ringing raw., turn u. abst. 20th Tiger- 60 puma 500 Bocharen 20th with strokes 35
small 400 Foxback , land 8th Panther 60 heron 60-100 Buenos-Aires kl. Feast 15th Shiraz 20th
Bush cats 60 Americ. Nordic 10 -Purify skins 5 deer 75 medium tastes 20th Schotten Schmaschen 15th
Capsee dogs 250-600 Dewlaps 25th Lining 50 Reindeer 250 Lambskins 25th Lambskins 25th
Chinchillas , real ones 30th Foxes , raw white, peals. 10 Rework skins 10 Ringtails 15th Calabrian 20th Black smack 15th
bastard 25th purify u. clean 20th Pannier dogs, small 60 Red deer 400 with strokes 35 Swiss sheepskins 100
Colinsky 15th Geese , including plucking 100 medium 100 Jackals 50 Corsicans without prank 20th with strokes 150
Cormorant 25-40 Gazelles 60 size 150 Schickeritz Schikara 18th with strokes 35 Transylvanian without deletion 40-50
Badgers , Germans 75 Chamois 100 lama 400 Shed , big one 30th Blanket skins with stripes 80-100 with strokes 20-30 more
american 75 Grebes , little one 8th Leopards 500 small 25th English feasts 18th stained without painting 30-35 Above prices per piece net cash
japanese 80 medium sized 12 Lions , depending on their size 600-1500 -Tails 4th Lambskins 25th with strokes 1–2 40
2. For dyeing
Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies Fur type Pennies
a) Wild
monkeys , black		 30th Rabbits , scissors, etc. chinchilla-like 50-55 Lynx , black 300-350 Opossum , skunk colored 40 Wolves , black, little ones 200 Treibel , Shiraz 60 Raw salt hides , Shiraz 60
Bears , black 300-1000 silver 45-50 Lynx back , black 150-175 iltis-colored 40 black, great 300 Ukrainians 70 Ukrainians 70
Foxes , country 125 Dogs , black by agreement 30-150 Marble , black 30th marten-colored 50 Goats 100 Persians 70 Persians 70
virgin 250 Kangaroo , black, small 30th Opossum , Australian, black 30th sable colored 50 Cover 200 brown and piebald 75 Piebald 75
Lake- 80 medium and large 70 Opossum , australian, large, smoke, black 35 Dandruff 90 brown heads 33 Kid crosses , real ones 150
japanese land 200 Rabbit fur , black 30th australian scissors beaver colored 45 small 60 b) sheep products white heads 36 Taluppen [unlined fur sleeping skirts, usually made of sheepskin] , real moiré 500
Russian by agreement 125-250 Cats , black, domestic 60 australian scissors nutria colored 45 Skunks , black, iltis and marten colors 40 Treibel , real moiré 23 American 45-60 tan 750
Fox tails , black 10 Wild- 100-150 Australian scissors and seal-colored 50 Suslicki sacks , black 160 real 25th Raw broadtails 50 white and piebald 1000
Bunnies , black, lot goods 25th Pannier dogs, black, small 70 Australian, Tasmanian, colored 50 Wallaby Swamp, little black 35 Check it out 30th Raw salt hides 40-50
black, heads [= quality designation] 28 black, big 120 American, black 30-35 Bush- 45 Kaljak [Goljak?] 25th tan 55
All other fur types as well as seal and fashion colors by agreement.
The above prices are per item net against a change of 3 months or against cash within 30 days with a 3% discount.
Collective wages paid for fur trimmers in 1914, 1925 and 1929 (nominal wages and real wages)
According to the collective agreement of For skilled workers For unskilled male workers over the age of 24 For unskilled female workers over the age of 24
Weekly hours Hourly wages Nominal wage week Index *) Real wage week in% of Peace wage Weekly hours Hourly wages Nominal wage week Index *) Real wage week in% of Peace wage Weekly wages Hourly wages Nominal wage week Index *) Real wage week in% of Peace wage
Pfg. Mark u. RM. Mark u. RM. Pfg. Mark u. RM. Mark u. RM. Pfg. Mark u. RM. Mark u. RM.
January 1914 48 75 36.00 100.0 36.00 100.0 56 48 26.88 100.0 26.88 100.0 56 28 15.64 100.0 15.64 100.0
April 1925 46 79 36.34 136.7 26.51 73.8 48 63 30.24 136.7 22.12 82.3 48 38 18.24 136.7 13.34 85.3
February 1929 46 109 50.14 154.4 32.47 90.2 48 88 42.24 154.4 27.36 101.8 48 51 24.48 154.4 15.85 101.3
*) Reich index figures for the cost of living according to the monthly publications in "Economy and Statistics"
  • The first companies, some of which have existed for a long time, included:
1848 Rödiger & Quarch
1857 FW Franke, Markranstädt
1860 Louis Walther, Markranstädt. In 1872 H. Steinbeck became the owner. The company (Steinbeck & Co) was renamed in 1889 to Rauchwaren-Aufichterei und Färberei AG vorm. Walther Nachf., Later in Rauchwaren-Walther GmbH
1867 Johann Scholz, Schkeuditz, later renamed Johann Scholz & Sohn with the addition of a dye works
1868 A. Herzog , Leipzig-Lindenau
  • With the further development of the dye works, additional finishing companies emerged, including:
1876 FA Sieglitz & Co. in collaboration with the chemist Adolf Sieglitz and Friedrich Erler , owner of he 1847 founded tobacco products wholesale business Friedr. Erler. He called early 1980s , the Seal Brown dyeing Erler & Co in life.
1883 CF Th. Lindner in Rötha, by Carl Friedrich Theodor Lindner
1883 Theodor Thorer opens a business for his tobacco shop to dress his goods, especially Persians. Later he took over the former Zacharias'sche finishing shop. From 1923 on, the business was continued as an independent company Thorer & Co.

As early as 1860 , the tobacco company G. Gaudig & Blum had incorporated a processing plant for dyeing Persians in the premises of the former Haendels' factories in Rötha. This was followed by Robert Schück, Wachtel & Eskreis, E. Kestenbaum & Sohn, FL Mertens, I. Konetzny and M. Nussenow with their own processing plants. Some of them were located in the suburbs of Leipzig, including Lindenau, where six companies were located next to each other on Angerstrasse. The majority of them were based in the surrounding areas, such as Markranstädt, Schkeuditz, Rötha and Weißenfels.

Sales increased steadily and further companies were founded:

1900 Theodor Kniesche, later Märkle & Co, Wahren and Taucha
1903 Paul Kunath, Schkeuditz, renamed Paul Kunath Nachf., Moved to Plagwitz in 1926
1906 Friedrich Herrmann, Plagwitz
1916 Adolf Arnhold AG, Naunhof. The tobacco dyeing and finishing works began to establish themselves there. In 1923 he merged with the company Rauchwaren Louis Walther's Nachf., Markranstädt. In 1925, Adolf Arnhold opened his own new tobacco dye works as an AG at another location in Naunhof. The company devoted itself almost exclusively to the finishing of rabbit skins.
1919 Hermsdorf Brothers, Böhlitz-Ehrenberg; Zeumer & Göhler and others.

Conversely, processing companies that were established around this time also incorporated their own tobacco goods trade, like the companies

A. Herzog, Leipzig; Theodor Kniesche GmbH, Leipzig; Adolf Petzold, Leipzig; CF Th. Lindner, Rötha; Rauchwaren-Walther AG, Markranstädt.

From 1929 to 1880 were organized by the dressmakers, the workers who did their work mostly on the bench knife, the old furrier's handicraft tool

591 in Leipzig, 410 in Markranstädt, 402 in Rötha, 344 in Schkeuditz, 42 in Taucha, 64 in Zwenkau, 8 in Naunhof and 9 in Weißenfels.

In 1930 there were around 250 craft and industrial finishing companies in the entire Reich, of which around 200 were in the Leipzig area, the rest in Berlin, Breslau, Chemnitz, Dresden, Freiburg / Breisgau, Frankfurt am Main, Kaiserslautern, Munich and Reichenbach / Vogtland.

In 1899 the Association of United Tobacco Preparing and Dyeing Owners in Germany was founded, later renamed the Association of German Tobacco Preparing and Dyeing Shops. According to a report by the association, around 9,000 people were employed in the trade. In 1935 the association's statistics show 215 companies.

See also

Commons : Fur Refiners  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Tools of the fur trimmers and fur refiners  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

literature

  • Erika Rowald: The German tobacco industry, a wage industry . Publishing house Der Rauchwarenmarkt. Leipzig around 1931/32.
  • Paul Schöps: The tobacco processing industry. Their creation and development. In: The fur trade. Volume VIII / New Series 1962 No. 4, pp. 149–155.

supporting documents

  1. ↑ a b c d W. Künzel: From raw fur to smoking goods . Alexander Duncker Verlagbuchhandlung, Leipzig approx. 1937, pp. 6–9.
  2. ↑ a b Signed Gr .: Kürschner in the fight against fraudulent intentions. In: Brühl. May 3 / June 1983, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, pp. 13-14. Primary source Franz Reinhard: Knowledge of goods, fraud and security lexicon. 2 volumes, Erfurt 1801 and 1803.
  3. ↑ S. Hopfenkopf: Our fur animals, 1. Zobel. In: The tobacco market. No. 18, Verlag Der Rauchwarenmarkt, Leipzig February 11, 1930, pp. 3-4.
  4. ↑ Emil Brass : From the realm of fur. 1st edition. Publishing house of the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin 1911, p. 262, 610–612.
  5. ↑ Fritz Schmidt: The book of the fur animals and fur. FC Mayer Verlag, Munich 1970, pp. 89-95.
  6. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods. XX. Volume, Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950, pp. 62-66 (under DRP no. 383.797).
  7. ↑ a b c d e f Anton Ginzel: 60 years of tobacco product refinement. In: The fur industry. Publishing house Die Pelzwirtschaft. January 1, 1965, Berlin, pp. 44-55.
  8. ↑ H. Clad, W. Lange: The smoking goods trade and its relations to Leipzig . Fischer & Wittig, Leipzig 1923, p. 10.
  9. ^ Jean Heinrich Heiderich: The Leipziger Kürschnergewerbe . Inaugural dissertation to obtain a doctorate from the high philosophical faculty of the Ruprecht-Karls-Universität zu Heidelberg, Heidelberg 1897, pp. 101-102.
  10. ↑ a b Anton Ginzel: Prerequisite for good fur finishing. In: The fur trade. Vol. XVI / New Series, 1965 No. 3, pp. 121–122.
  11. ↑ a b c d e f g h i Friedrich Lorenz: Rauchwarenkunde. 4th edition. Verlag Volk und Wissen, Berlin 1958, pp. 172–199.
  12. ↑ google.com inventor Hubert Herdt, Josef Hurt; Applicant Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Patent process for dyeing fur skins with oxidation dyes EP 0634517 A1 . Patent registered July 4, 1994. Last accessed May 30, 2013.
  13. ↑ a b c d Christian Franke, Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel's Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . 10th, revised and supplemented new edition. Rifra-Verlag, Murrhardt 1989, pp. 38-39, 373-376, 397-404.
  14. ↑ A. Ginzel: Reinforcing. In: Pelz International. Issue 1, Rhenania-Fachverlag, Koblenz January 1982, p. 24.
  15. ↑ Kurt Nestler: The smoking goods refinement . Deutscher Verlag, Leipzig 1925, p. 105.
  16. ↑ Technical information from BASF : The printing technology in fur finishing. In: The fur industry. Issue 10, October 1966, pp. 85-86.
  17. ↑ Anton Ginzel: Hair and leather from nutria pelts. In: All about fur. Issue 10, Rhenania-Fachverlag, Koblenz October 1976, pp. 57-59.
  18. ↑ Paul Schöps among others: The refinement of the hair. In: The fur trade. Volume XIV / New Series, No. 1, 1963, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 85-88.
  19. ↑ a b Jochen Sager: The nappa finishing of fur skins . In Die Pelzwirtschaft No. 12, December 23, 1987, CB Verlag Carl Boldt, Berlin, pp. 8-12.
  20. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am Richard Maria Franke: 25 years - 250 years - 2500 years. From the beginnings of finishing to the key industry of the tobacco industry In: Felle Farben Fantasy. A portrait of the German fur processing industry. Rifra Verlag, Murrhardt, 1973, pp. 7-25.
  21. ^ Francis Weiss : From Adam to Madam . From the original manuscript part 2 (of 2), (approx. 1980 / 1990s), in the manuscript p. 230. (English).
  22. ^ Georg Grasser: The tanning of fur skins. The chromium salts as tannins. In: The tobacco product refiner. No. 18, supplement from Der Rauchwarenmarkt. No. 19, Leipzig, March 9, 1935.
  23. ↑ Under Eight Monarchs - from 1823 to 1953. CW Martin & Sons, London 1953, English.
  24. ↑ Paul Larisch , Josef Schmid: The furrier craft. III. Teil, Verlag Paul Larisch and Josef Schmid, Paris 1903, pp. 63–67.
  25. ↑ Anton Ginzel: The development of the Persian dyeing. In: All about fur. Issue 11, Rhenania Verlag, Koblenz November 1981, pp. 14-15.
  26. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u Paul Schöps et al: Die Rauchwaren-Veredlungsindustrie. In: The fur trade. Vol. XIV / New Series, No. 1, 1963, pp. 24-26.
  27. ^ Francis Weiss : From Adam to Madam . From the original manuscript part 2 (of 2), (approx. 1980 / 1990s), in the manuscript p. 234. (English)
  28. ↑ Thorer & Co. (Ed.): 1883-1958 - 75 years of Thorerfarben . Anniversary publication by Thorer & Co. 1958, p. 15.
  29. ^ Anton Ginzel: The shine of fur skins. In: The fur industry. No. 12, December 23, 1987, CB Verlag Carl Boldt, Berlin, p. 13.
  30. ↑ Editor: An interesting novelty: Tinted furs. In: The tobacco market. No. 68, Leipzig, August 31, 1935, p. 2.
  31. ^ Anton Ginzel: Reinforcing. In: Pelz International. Issue 1, Rhenania-Fachverlag, Koblenz January 1982, p. 24.
  32. ↑ Various reports. In: The fur industry. No. 7, July 30, 1973, CB-Verlag Berlin.
  33. ↑ Editor: Fur clothing coated with 24 carat gold. In: fur market. No. 09/15, Deutscher Pelzverband, September 2015, pp. 3–4 (Falk Rau with Copenhagen Studio).
  34. ^ Otto Feistle: Rauchwarenmarkt and Rauchwarenhandel. Verlag W. Kohlhammer, Stuttgart 1931, p. 81. Table of contents .
  35. ^ Walter Krausse: Fifty years as a merchant in the imperial trade fair city of Leipzig . Self-published, Leipzig April 1941, pp. 57–60.