Grana Padano

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Grana Padano, loaf with cheese knife
Grana Padano, piece of cheese

The Grana Padano is a slow maturing, semi-fat hard and grated cheese from cow's milk of far-reaching Po Valley . Along with parmesan and mozzarella, it is one of the best-known and most popular cheeses in Italy . Of the Italian cheeses with the protected designation of origin Denominazione d'Origine Protetta (DOP), it is the most widely produced. The name is derived on the one hand from the grainy structure of the cheese ("grana" from Italian granuloso = grainy) and on the other hand from its origin in the Po plain ("pianura padana" from Latin padus = Po ).

history

Storage of the Grana Padano

The origins of Grana Padano are unknown. According to the traditions of Virgil , cheese was already being produced in the Po Valley during the time of the Roman Empire , the “Pianura Padana”. After the importance and production declined after this phase, it developed in the 10th to 11th centuries through improvements in the agricultural and sanitary conditions in this region. Above all, monks of different orders developed the region, among other things by draining swamp areas. According to various documents, the origin of Grana Padano was assumed to be around the year 1000, with the origins probably being in the areas around Lodi and Codogno in what is now Lombardy . It remains to be seen whether this tradition was adopted from the Emilia region or whether it spread there from Lodi. Since the trade and transport across the Po was very intensive and Codogno in particular was closely connected to the cities of Parma and Piacenza , both options are conceivable. A more likely scenario is the emergence in the Lodi region and the later expansion to Emilia, where the production conditions were more favorable than at the point of origin. According to other traditions, Cistercian monks of the Chiaravalle Milanese monastery in southern Lombardy discovered a method in the cheese dairy to preserve excess milk, and several dairies are known to have been founded in the 12th century that produced a hard cheese with a grainy structure called "grana".

At that time the cheese was probably already comparable in shape and size to today's Grana. From 1500 onwards, the Grana Padano trade flourished and according to a document from 1750 it is documented that between 35,000 and 45,000 cheeses were traded per year in the market town of Codogno alone at that time. Different regions produced and produce their respective Grana with the respective designations of origin, Grana milanese , from Milan , piacentino ( Piacenza ), mantovano ( Mantua ), the lodesano from ( Lodi ).

Since 1951 by the Convention of Stresa , the designations of origin were introduced for cheese name, is the cheese uniformly Grana Padano after the Po Valley (Pianura Padana) and enjoys since Decree no. 1269 of October 30, 1955 a special origin protection, which refers to the Regions of origin and the production of the cheese. Its production method changed only slightly over the centuries, the popularity of Grana in Lombardy increased production, and the long shelf life influenced the region's trade for centuries, making it one of the most popular and most widely imitated cheeses in the world.

Description and characteristics

The Grana Padano is a hard cheese and is characterized by its grainy structure. Compared to the very similar Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan), the structure of the cheese dough is grainier, the fat content is lower and there are occasional fine cracks and small holes.

The cheese is produced in cylindrical loaves with slightly convex sides and a flat base with a diameter of 35 to 45 centimeters, a height of 18 to 25 centimeters and a weight of 24 to 40 kilograms. The approximately 4 to 8 millimeter thick rind is yellow-brown and can also be colored darker to black with umber , some of the loaves are covered with plastic film. The dough is white or pale yellow, depending on whether a winter milk ( Vernengo ) or milk from another season was used. It is hard and grainy to flaky when broken. Shortly after the start of ripening, the dough contains white crystalline granules, which consist of protein breakdown products ( tyrosine derivatives ) and are typical of Grana Padano. The perforation is very small with holes less than 0.5 centimeters in diameter, with older and more mature loaves, among other things, the increased grain size leads to cracking and cracking (“spaccatura”), which characterize the mature cheese and is already visible to consumers and cheese testers represents an essential quality feature.

Depending on the age, the dry matter of the cheese is 68–80%, the fat content about 32% and the protein content about 35% in the dry matter (dry matter).

According to the denomination (extract), the cheese wheels must have the following properties:

  • Diameter: 35-45 cm
  • Height: 18-25 cm
  • Weight: 24–40 kg
  • Fat in dry matter: at least 32% i. Tr.
  • Color of the cheese mass: white or straw yellow
  • Odor: fragrant

The taste of the cheese is fully aromatic and spicy, but not sharp. The taste and aroma develop during ripening primarily through the breakdown of fat and protein. The granules in the cheese dough can easily be perceived with the tongue and give the cheese a pleasantly tangy taste. Regionally in Italy, local variants are differentiated, such as the Grana Lombardo from the Milan region, the Grana Lodigiano from Lodi with a lower fat content and a sharper taste and the Grana Reggiano from Emilien. The salt content is 3%, the total acid content is 1.6% due to the lactic acid it contains and the pH value is 5.8.

Quality defect

Rind defects and excessive perforation or cracking as well as a dark to reddish color of the dough and hardened layers under the rind are classified as quality defects. Flavor and odor defects are present when the cheese develops a putrid or garlic odor and the taste is bitter, similar to that of meat extract .

Quality mark

Grana Padano quality mark
Burning of the quality label into the rind of the Grana Padano

A quality mark is printed on all packaging with grated cheese or cheese packed in pieces.

When buying whole loaves, the casein plaque with the words "GRANA PADANO" is attached to the top when the cheese is formed. When the cheese is formed, a cloverleaf is pressed into it, which contains the abbreviation for the province, the manufacturer's dairy and "DOP" ( Denominazione d'Origine Protetta ). When the cheese is formed, the dotted diamond pattern is created over the entire rim, in which the names "PADANO" and "GRANA" are repeated alternately. The finished cheese receives the diamond-shaped logo "GRANA PADANO" burned into the rind as a seal of quality.

Production areas

The original Grana Padano (Grana Padano DOP cheese) may only be produced in the area of ​​the Po and its tributary Reno . The area of ​​origin includes the Italian provinces and metropolitan cities of Alessandria , Asti , Biella , Cuneo , Novara , Turin , Verbania , Vercelli , Bergamo , Brescia , Como , Cremona , Lecco , Lodi , Mantua to the left of the Po , Milan , Monza , Pavia , Sondrio , Varese , Trento , Padua , Rovigo , Treviso , Venice , Verona , Vicenza , Bologna to the right of Reno, Ferrara , Forlì-Cesena , Piacenza , Ravenna and Rimini . In addition, milk from the area of ​​origin of the communities of Altrei , Laurein , Proveis , Our Lady in Walde-St. Felix and Truden are coming to South Tyrol .

production

Grana Padano may only be produced in certified dairies. Unlike Parmigiano Reggiano, which is only produced during the grazing periods, Grana Padano is produced all year round. The cheese is traditionally made from pre-ripened and partially skimmed raw milk that comes from a maximum of two daily milkings. There are two types: “maggengo”, made from milk milked in spring / summer, and “vernengo” made from summer and winter milk. The morning and evening milk, which is ten to twelve hours old, is used separately so that cheese is made twice a day . Pasteurized milk is also used in more modern productions .

Whey from the previous day's production is added as a starter culture (lactic acid bacteria) in traditional copper kettles, which hold no more than the amount of milk for two loaves . The fat content of the vat milk is adjusted to about 2% and results in 32% fat in the finished cheese. Tr. The milk is heated to 31–33 ° C and rennet is added to coagulate it. The resulting cheese curd is kept at 53-56 ° C for some time, between 30 and 70 minutes, while stirring. In contrast to the Parmigiano production, the Grana Padano allows the curd to clump and grow together in the kettle and then it is pressed in the cheese mold with a higher pressure. The curd is filled into cylindrical shapes and allowed to settle for two days. Then it is immersed in brine for 16-25 days . The salted loaves are placed in a heating chamber to dry for a few hours.

maturation

The ripening takes place at a temperature between 15 and 22 degrees and usually lasts 12 to 18 months and in exceptional cases up to 2 years. This means that the aging process is shorter than that of Parmigiano Reggiano. In the maturing warehouse, the loaves are cleaned and turned over regularly (about every 15 days). This activity used to be done manually, today brushing and turning machines do it. The air humidity, temperature and air exchange in the warehouses are monitored and automatically regulated.

The Consorzio Tutela Grana Padano has set three levels of maturity:

  • Grana Padano DOP - Aged for 9 to 16 months
  • Grana Padano DOP "Oltre 16 Mesi" - matured over 16 months
  • Grana Padano DOP RISERVA - "Oltre 20 Mesi" - matured over 20 months

Starter cultures and microbiology

As with all cheeses, the composition of the bacteria that drive the cheese's ripeness consists of a mixture of different types and strains of lactic acid-producing bacteria that are added to the whey as starter cultures . The starter cultures of Grana Padano have a natural composition. It comes from the whey from the previous day, which is kept for 24 hours at a decreasing temperature from 50 ° C to 35 ° C. This is how the cultures are passed on from one cheese to the next.

Investigations of the starter cultures of various Grana Padana dairies spread across the Po region in 2008 revealed Lactobacillus helveticus , Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis , Streptococcus thermophilus and Lactobacillus fermentum have been identified as the main dominant species of the cheese flora, with the common occurrence of L. helveticus , L. delbrueckii subsp. lactis and S. thermophilus represented the most typical composition in 45% of the cheese dairies examined, and only two of the species mentioned occurred in 40% of the cultures examined. Only in a few cases could all four species be detected in the same culture and pure cultures with only one bacterial species were also rare. A total of 512 different bacterial strains were identified and isolated in this study, with most of the strains assigned to the species mentioned. In further investigations, monthly changes in the species composition and other species in the crops could be identified.

storage

Grana Padano on a buffet

The Grana Padano should be stored in the refrigerator or in the cellar at a temperature of around four degrees Celsius. If you want to keep it for a particularly long time, in order to avoid mold formation, you should wrap whole pieces of it individually in a clean kitchen towel and place this in the upper area of ​​the refrigerator, as it is the driest there. In this way, the cheese gradually dries out and becomes harder, but can be stored this way for up to two years.

Consumption and preparations

The Grana Padano is consumed at room temperature. It traditionally plays a role primarily as grated cheese as a condiment for soups and broths and, analogous to Parmesan, also for sauces and other dishes. Later it also developed into a table cheese that is offered on the cheese buffet.

supporting documents

  1. a b The Grana Padano , italia.it, accessed on January 10, 2018
  2. a b c d e f "Grana Padano" In: Heinrich Mair-Waldburg (Ed.): Handbook of cheese. Cheese from the world from AZ. An encyclopedia. Volkswirtschaftlicher Verlag, Kempten 1974; Pp. 488-492.
  3. a b Grana Padano - History Consorzio Tutela Grana Padano (English)
  4. a b c d e f g h i j "Grana Padano" In: Gerhard Kielwein, Hans Kurt Luh: International Cheese Studies. Seewald Verlag, Stuttgart 1979; Pp. 90-92. ISBN 3-512-00540-3 .
  5. a b c d e Production regulations and description of the DOP (PDF, English); Production regulations and description of the DOP (PDF, Italian), granapadano.it, accessed on February 8th / 10th. January 2018 /
  6. Protection Consortium Maturation
  7. ^ PF Fox: Cheese: Chemistry, Physics and Microbiology: Volume 2 Major Cheese Groups. Springer Verlag, 2012; P. 228. ( Google Books )
  8. Lia Rossetti, Maria Emanuela Fornasari, Monica Gatti, Camilla Lazzi, Erasmo Neviani, Giorgio Giraffa: Grana Padano cheese whey starters: Microbial composition and strain distribution. International Journal of Food Microbiology 127 (1-2), September 30, 2008; Pp. 168-171. doi : 10.1016 / j.ijfoodmicro.2008.06.005
  9. ^ Franca Rossi, Veronica Gatto, Giancarlo Sabattini, Sandra Torriani: An assessment of factors characterizing the microbiology of Grana Trentino cheese, a Grana-type cheese. Dairy Technology 65 (3), Aug 2012; Pp. 401-409. doi : 10.1111 / j.1471-0307.2012.00844.x

literature

  • "Grana Padano" In: Gerhard Kielwein, Hans Kurt Luh: International Cheese Studies. Seewald Verlag, Stuttgart 1979; Pp. 90-92. ISBN 3-512-00540-3 .
  • "Grana Padano" In: Heinrich Mair-Waldburg: Handbook of Cheese. Cheese from the world from AZ. An encyclopedia. Volkswirtschaftlicher Verlag, Kempten 1974; Pp. 488-492.

Web links

Commons : Grana Padano  - Collection of Images