Macaron

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Macaron by Pierre Hermé , filling cream with olive oil and vanilla
Parisian style macarons

The Macaron [ makaˈʁɔ̃ ] ( French loanword , Pl. The Macarons ) is a French meringue made from almond flour , the origin of which goes back to the Middle Ages. Many variants of traditional macarons are baked in France, of which the colorful macaron in the form of a small double slice with a layer of cream in between is the most widespread. Since the 2000s, this macaron variant has also gained popularity outside of France. The meringue bases of the double biscuit are made from egg white, powdered sugar and very finely ground almonds and colored with food extracts. The filling of this approximately three to five centimeter long pastry usually consists of buttercream , ganache or jam in a wide variety of flavors. The filling compound is applied to the lower base with a skin- pass bag , then covered with a second lid or base and finally carefully squeezed.

In France, but increasingly also in German-speaking countries, the word macaron is used colloquially as a synonym for a star awarded by the Michelin Guide .

General

The name comes from Italian and is derived from the Italian word (am) maccare , which translates as crush or crush. The Venetian word macarone   or maccherone   means fine dough . Macarons are not with the German macaroons and the Italian Maccheroni to be confused. Dictionaries as Duden and LEO translate Macaron still with macaroon, which is not the current use is more in the media.

The distinction between macaroon and macaron as two different types of pastry has now become established, even if both are made from egg whites and almond flour. The almond content of the macarons is lower than that of almond macaroons, so macarons turn out more airy and tender, while macaroons taste juicier and a little heavier because of the butter and the lower degree of grinding of the almonds. In addition, macaroons have a pronounced almond taste, which can be enhanced by adding marzipan .

The Parisian style almond meringue is soft, moist, and finally creamy under a thin, smooth crust and melts quickly in the mouth. In contrast to biscuits , macarons cannot be stored for long without losing their taste, they harden within two to four days. Macarons are not considered to be very easy to make, as it is important to pay close attention to the quantities of ingredients, baking temperature, duration and resting times. Macarons are known in Switzerland as the Luxemburgerli from Confiserie Sprüngli . In Germany, North America and East Asia, the colorful pastries are becoming increasingly popular, so that today they are referred to as “trend pastries”. A 13 gram piece of macaron contains around 59 kcal   , which is on par with other types of biscuits such as hazelnut macaroons, cinnamon stars and oreos .

Because of its limited shelf life and demanding preparation, the Parisian-style macaron has so far only been handcrafted and mostly sold directly. Other types of double biscuits with a layer of cream are the predominantly machine-made whoopie pies and oreos , which also became popular in the USA at the beginning of the 20th century. The bases of these types of pastry are made from batter.

history

Traditional Nancy macaron , 1904
Macarons from Ladurée , Paris
Macarons from the Two International Finance Center (IFC) pastry shop , Hong Kong

Arabia and Persia

According to Dan Jurafsky in Slate magazine , when they occupied Sicily in 827 , Arab troops from Ifrīqiya (now Tunisia) also brought new techniques ( papermaking ) and foods such as lemons, rice and pistachios with them. These included many nut-based sweets such as fālūdhaj and lausinaj - pastries with sweet almond cream inside. This sweet pastry, in turn, had been handed down by the Sassanid Shahs in Persia, where the almond pastry was served to celebrate the Zoroastrian New Year ( Nouruz ). In 1154, Muhammad al-Idrisi reported on pasta production, which was also first operated in Sicily. The Arabs used the collective term maccarruni to describe foods made from ground grain, such as pasta and pastries. The Italians borrowed maccheroni from maccarruni , from which today's macarons come .

The culinary encyclopedia Larousse Gastronomique (1988) traces the origin of macarons back to an earlier French monastery in Cormery in the 8th century (791). At the same time, the encyclopedia entry spreads the pious legend that the shape of the pastry with a cracked crust was abandoned from the navel of a monk. A Swiss online encyclopedia on the history of baking, on the other hand, dates the first almond biscuits to the 11th century under the aegis of the sultan and first king of the Almoravid dynasty Yusuf ibn Tashfin , where the almond cake Ghouryeba or Ghriba was served mainly during Ramadan . The almond biscuits spread from Arabia to Sicily as far as Venice, where the term macarone was generally used to describe fine biscuits .

France

According to further information from Larousse Gastronomique, Caterina de 'Medici is said to have brought the almond biscuits from Florence to France in 1533 on the occasion of her wedding to the Duke of Orleans, who became King of France as Henry II in 1547. The first known written mention of a macaron recipe goes back to the humanist writer François Rabelais ( Le Quart Livre , 1552). The pâtissier Adam from Saint-Jean-de-Luz continued the culinary tradition of macarons at the royal court when he also offered this pastry for the wedding celebrations of Louis XIV in 1660. At the court of Versailles Palace , the chefs (officiers de bouche) Dalloyau, who later founded the pâtisserie company of the same name, also added macarons to their repertoire from 1682 .

The first macarons were unfilled biscuits made from almond flour, sugar and egg white and were considered a specialty of several monasteries, for example the nuns of the Visitandinnen (Filles de Sainte-Marie) in Melun , after which the almond cakes Visitandines are named. Since the Benedictine Sisters of the Most Holy Sacrament in Nancy were forbidden to eat meat, they prepared a wide variety of pastries, including macarons. After the decree to repeal the charitable orders of April 5, 1792, the Benedictines Marguerite Gaillot and Marie-Elisabeth Morlot began to make a living from the production and sale of their macarons in Nancy. They became so well known that they soon made a name for themselves as Les Sœurs Macarons . The taste of the unfilled macarons with their clear almond note is similar to the almond macaroons from Germany and Italy ( Sicily : pasta di mandorla ).

In the 18th century France began to bake jam or cream in the biscuits. Later you pierced the baked almond meringue and filled it. The French queen and pastry enthusiast Marie-Antoinette is also said to have enjoyed this type of biscuit. In Sofia Coppola's historical film Marie Antoinette (2006) , the young queen offers the Austrian ambassador (a modern version of) macarons.

19th century

The increased import of Indian coconuts to Europe and the United States in the late 19th century had the coconut macaroons (English: coconut macaroons ) rise and contributes up to today in the confusion with the older Macarons. Since then, coconut macaroons have been prepared for seder evenings in Jewish kitchens in the USA . During the 19th century, France began to combine two macarons with buttercream or jam. Documented for the first time, the Parisian pâtissier Claude Gerbet put two soft almond meringues on top of each other without filling.

20th century

At the beginning of the 20th century, Pierre Desfontaines, the owner of the Ladurée house and great cousin of the famous miller and baker Louis Ernest Ladurée, began filling a ganache between two macarons . The recipe has been retained at Maison Ladurée to this day . Since then, the terms le macaron Gerbet and le macaron parisien have been used to denote filled double macarons .

Towards the end of the 20th century, the Lenôtre student Pierre Hermé refined and expanded the taste of macarons. In the style of Italian meringue , he first cooks syrup and then stirs in the egg whites and then raw egg white, which makes the macaron shells more stable. From then on, the macaron quickly became one of the most popular types of small baked goods in France. The Ladurée house , which, alongside Pierre Hermé SAS, is one of the best sellers of macarons in France, sells more than four million pieces a year in its four Parisian pâtisseries alone. The sale of macarons in the famous Ladurée s tea salon in the rue Royale between Place de la Concorde and Place de la Madeleine accounted for 30% of sales in the 1998 financial year.

21st century

In the 2000s, chains such as Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s , Starbucks and, since 2007, McDonald’s McCafés in France adopted simplified versions of macarons in their system catering and retail sectors .

On March 20, the beginning of spring , France has been celebrating the Jour du Macaron since 2005 , which was launched on the initiative of Pierre Hermé . Part of the proceeds go to charitable projects. The fine bakeries in other countries, such as the delicatessen department of Galeries Lafayette in Berlin, as well as pastry shops in Canadian and American cities, are increasingly participating .

Local specialities

In addition to the courtly and clerical tradition, local varieties of macarons also developed in France. The Macarons d ' Amiens in Picardy have been around since the 16th century; they consist of almond flour, eggs, almond oil, fruits and honey. Macaroon-shaped macarons have been made in Boulay in Lorraine since the 19th century . In addition to Nancy, Boulay and Amiens, the Musée de l'Amande et du Macaron in Montmorillon also points out the traditional macaron specialties in Cormery, Luignan, Montmorillon, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Saint-Emilion . Cormery's almond biscuits are in the shape of a bagel or donut and are said to resemble monk's navel. Meyers also mentions the places Lauzerte , Niort , Reims , Massiac , Pau and Metz .

Luxemburgerli come from Zurich and are smaller Parisian-style macarons. This variant is named after the Luxembourgish confectioner and creator Camille Studer and has been made by the Zurich Confiserie Sprüngli since 1957 .

preparation

literature

chronologically

  • Clémence Boulouque: Au pays des macarons. Mercure de France, Paris 2005, 77 pp., ISBN 2-7152-2568-7 . (French)
  • Stéphane Glacier, Emmanuelle Jary: Un amour de macaron. Dormonval Éditions, Ingersheim 2006, ISBN 3-905462-95-8 , 159 pp. (French)
  • Mercotte: Solution Macarons. Photographs by Sigrid Verbert. Éditions Altal, Chambéry 2008, 76 pages, ISBN 978-2-916736-12-9 . (French)
  • Nathalie Idir Serrano: I love macaron sous toutes les coutures. 30 recettes sucrées & salées. Eurofina CréaPassions, Limoges 2009, ISBN 978-2-8141-0005-3 , 71 pp. (French)
  • Hisako Ogita: I love macarons. Chronicle Books, San Francisco 2009, ISBN 978-0-8118-6871-6 , 80 pp. (English).
  • Cindy Meyers: The Macaron and Madame Blanchez. In: Gastronomica . The Journal of Food and Culture, Vol. 9, No. 2 (Spring 2009), pp. 14-18, University of California Press, jstor.org .
    This article won an IACP Cookbook Award nomination in the Culinary Writing without Recipes category.
  • Cecile Cannone: Macarons. Authentic French Cookie Recipes from the Macaron Cafe. Ulysses Press, Berkeley (CA) 2010, 127 pp., ISBN 978-1-56975-820-5 , excerpts from ebrary.com (English)
  • Jill Colonna: Mad About Macarons! Make Macarons Like the French. Waverley Books, Glasgow 2010, ISBN 978-1-84934-041-0 , 128 pages, contents . (English)
  • Pierre Hermé : Macarons. Agnès Viénot Éditions, Paris 2008, ISBN 978-2-35326-035-5 , (French)
    Pierre Hermé: Macarons. Photographs by Laurent Fau and Bernhard Winkelmann. Translated by Silvia Bartholl. Knesebeck Verlag, Munich 2015, ISBN 978-3-86873-839-1 , hardcover, 264 pages, reading sample.
  • Jialin Tian: Macaron Magic. Photographs by Yabin Yu. Jayca, Poquoson, VA, 2011, 116 pp., ISBN 978-0-9837764-0-6 , photo gallery . (English)
  • Dan Jurafsky: Macarons, Macaroons, Macaroni. In: Slate of November 16, 2011, online text . (English, on the history of the macarons.)

Web links

Commons : Macarons  - collection of images, videos, and audio files
Wiktionary: Macaron  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. “What the macaron is to Ladurée in Paris, the Luxemburgerli is to Sprüngli in Zurich.”
       In: Heinz Feller: Macarons, s'il vous plaît. Macarons à la Ladurée are an exquisite, sweet highlight of Parisian patisserie art. In: Konditorei & Café , ISSN  0023-3234 , No. 11 from November 15, 2010, page 37.
  2. "The most important product that goes over the counter here is the macaron."
       In: Christina Hubbeling: Who makes the best macarons? In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung from October 18, 2009.
  3. “Today almost everything that is expensive and good is also small and discreet. That applies to [...] and to food ( the macaron). ”
       In: Annabelle Hirsch: A place for the darling. Some containers that help to store the everyday wonderfully. In: Zeitmagazin from October 20, 2011, No. 43.
  4. Lisa Höfer: As in France: This is how perfect macarons turn out. In: Frankfurter Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung , May 22, 2016, print edition: Pink and juicy .
  5. Irene Krauss , Chronicle of beautiful baked goods . Matthaes, Stuttgart 1999, ISBN 3-87516-292-7 , p. 260 f.
  6. a b “Larousse Gastronomique” translates macarone as “fine dough”, quoted in Dena Kleiman: The 5th Question At the Seder: Have a Macaroon? In: The New York Times, March 20, 1991.
  7. Tea and Christmas bakery . Entry in the register of traditional foods of the Austrian Federal Ministry for Agriculture, Regions and Tourism . Retrieved February 16, 2013
  8. Macaroon. In: Duden , accessed March 1, 2019.
  9. Macaron. In: LEO , accessed March 1, 2019.
  10. ^ Pascale Richard: L'Ispahan de Pierre Hermé. In: Le Monde , December 1, 2001.
  11. Gisela Reiners: Colorful confectionery. In: Welt am Sonntag , December 25, 2011.
  12. ^ Ligaya Mishan: Airy Macarons That Rise Above the Rest. In: New York Times , November 1, 2011:
    “Macarons make no pretense of ease. They demand surgical precision in the mixing and sifting of ground almonds and superfine sugar and the beating (not too much) of egg whites… “
    (Translation: Macarons do not pretend lightness. They require surgical precision in mixing and sifting ground almonds and powdered sugar as well as when beating (not too much) protein ... )
  13. Ullrich Fichtner : Revolutionary of the cream cuts. In: Spiegel Online , January 9, 2009.
  14. ^ Pascale Hugues : Mon Berlin. The monk's navel is the answer to the junk. In: Der Tagesspiegel , November 28, 2011.
  15. a b c Dorothea Stöhlker: Macarons: the trend pastry from France. In: daskochrezept.de / Burda , accessed on March 12, 2012.
  16. a b Karin Messerli: Macarons - Hello you cuties! In: Annabelle , November 4, 2010.
  17. Calorie table: Macaron. In: Fooddatabase (Fddb) , accessed March 1, 2019.
  18. Calorie table: hazelnut macaroon. In: Fooddatabase (Fddb) , accessed on May 11, 2017.
  19. Calorie table: Zimtsterne. In: Fooddatabase (Fddb) , accessed on May 11, 2017.
  20. Calorie table: Oreos. In: Fooddatabase (Fddb) , accessed on May 11, 2017.
  21. Jana Gioia Baurmann: 30 seconds for cookies. In: Die Zeit , November 7, 2013, No. 46.
  22. a b c d e Dan Jurafsky: Macarons, Macaroons, Macaroni. The curious history. In: Slate of November 16, 2011.
  23. a b c d e Pièces sèches: Macarons. ( Memento from September 17, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) In: Lexique de Boulangerie-Pâtisserie.ch
  24. Anna Wainwright: MacDo Takes on the macaron. ( Memento of March 2, 2013 in the Internet Archive ). In: France Today , ISSN  0895-3651 , No. 3, March 2, 2010.
  25. De 1682 et de demain. ( Memento from February 1, 2012 in the Internet Archive ). In: dalloyau.fr , 2011.
  26. Pictures from Visitandines on Google
  27. a b Guillaume Crouzet: Le macaron. In: Le Monde of March 11, 1998.
  28. Maison des Sœurs Macarons
  29. Paste di Mandorla - almond cookies. In: lisbeths.de , December 16, 2015.
  30. a b Julie Jargon and Christina Passariello: Mon Dieu! Will Newfound Popularity Spoil the Dainty Macaron? Parisian Treat Goes Mainstream; McDonald's Recipe Has Provenance. ( Memento of March 4, 2010 in the Internet Archive ). In: Wall Street Journal , March 2, 2010.
  31. D'où vient la tradition du macaron, star des biscuits français? ( Memento from January 10, 2015 in the Internet Archive ). In: Éditions Atlas .
  32. ^ Frédéric Levent: Pour l'honneur retrouvé du macaron Gerbet. In: L'Echo Républicain. August 24, 2010, archived from the original on August 25, 2010 ; Retrieved June 26, 2012 (French).
  33. L'histoire de la maison Ladurée. # L'histoire du Macaron. In: laduree.fr , accessed on March 1, 2019: "Depuis cette époque, la recette n'a pas changé."
  34. Sybil Kapoor: Are these the world's best macarons? In: The Guardian, February 25, 2010.
  35. ^ The History of Macarons. ( Memento of the original from February 5, 2009 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.madmacnyc.com archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. In: madmacnyc.com , accessed March 12, 2012.
  36. Heinz Feller: Macarons, s'il vous plaît. Macarons à la Ladurée are an exquisite, sweet highlight of Parisian patisserie art. In: Konditorei & Café , ISSN  0023-3234 , No. 11 from November 15, 2010, page 37.
  37. McDonalds' Macaron Ads. In: eatmedaily.com of September 11, 2009.
  38. Le 20 Mars, fêtons le macaron! ( Memento of June 30, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) In: jourdumacaron.com
  39. L'elite des pâtissiers se mobilise. ( Memento of July 9, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) In: jourdumacaron.com
  40. ^ "Macarons Day" on March 19 and 20. ( Memento from March 25, 2016 in the Internet Archive ). In: galerieslafayette.de , 2013.
  41. Steven Davey: Macaron Day. Toronto macaron dealers join forces for good. In: nowtoronto.com , February 26, 2012.
      Lauren Shockey: Chatting With François Payard on Why Macarons Are Way More Awesome Than Cupcakes. In: Village Voice , March 1, 2012.
  42. Macarons d'Amiens In: AFTouch cuisine , accessed March 1, 2019.
  43. Les Macarons de Boulay. In: Maison Alexandre , with video, accessed March 12, 2012.
  44. Musée de l'Amande et du Macaron .
  45. a b Cindy Meyers: The Macaron and Madame Blanchez. In: Gastronomica. The Journal of Food and Culture , Vol. 9, No. 2 (Spring 2009), p. 14.
  46. Isabella Seemann: Who makes Zurich's finest macarons? ( Memento from September 15, 2015 in the Internet Archive ). In: Tagblatt der Stadt Zürich , October 14, 2009, (PDF file, 116 kB).
  47. ^ IACP Cookbook Award Finalists: Ice Cream, Wine, Champagne and Macarons. In: University of California Press Blog , 2010.