Gastronomy review
As a food critic writing about food, drink and restaurants is called. It offers reflections on culinary developments and gastrosophic topics, but also restaurant reviews in newspapers , magazines , blogs and restaurant guides . The term gastrosophy , used more historically, has overlaps, but does not include restaurant criticism.
Gastronomy critic
The literary genre of food critic was after the French Revolution from the Gourmand and Gastrosophen Alexandre Balthazar Laurent Grimod de la Reynière justified (1758-1837). In the course of the liberation of personal chefs from their aristocracy, more and more restaurants were opened in Paris , other well-known gastronomy critics followed such as Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755–1826) and in Germany Carl Friedrich von Rumohr (1785–1843).
In Germany, gastronomy criticism established itself on a broader scale from the late 1950s, for example by Wolfram Siebeck , who initially wrote reviews for Twen magazine and later became very well known and influential through his reviews in the period (until 2011). Gert von Paczensky and Klaus Besser were also renowned gastro critics until the 1990s .
After 2000, besides Siebeck, Jürgen Dollase in particular appeared in the FAZ and Bernd Matthies in Essen & Trinken and in the Tagesspiegel as prominent gastronomic critics.
Since the 2010s, the number of restaurant critics has continued to grow in parallel with the increasing reader interest in gastronomy in German newspapers and magazines. Well-known representatives include Michael Allmaier ( Die Zeit ), Barbara Goerlich ( Der Feinschmecker ), Kai Mihm ( Effilee , Süddeutsche Zeitung ), Stevan Paul (including Süddeutsche Zeitung), Marten Rolff (Süddeutsche Zeitung), Ingo Scheuermann (Effilee), Jakob Strobel y Serra (FAZ) and Christoph Teuner (Falstaff). In German-speaking Switzerland, Wolfgang Faßbender from Neue Zürcher Zeitung and David Schnapp from Weltwoche are among the best-known restaurant critics . Some critics are also active as gastro bloggers.
Controversies about food critics
Over the decades, food critics have repeatedly drawn the displeasure of restaurateurs and chefs. Wolfram Siebeck and Gert von Paczensky were banned from entering some restaurants after writing negatively about them. For example, Siebeck wrote in his book Culinary Notes (1980) about a visit to the Boettner restaurant in Munich : “The last time I was there, I was accompanied by Gert von Paczensky, who wrote a very sharp but justified criticism of this restaurant . When I wanted to eat there again, I was refused service because I was in the wrong company at the time. ”On the occasion of Siebeck's 85th birthday in September 2013, Der Tagesspiegel reported that Siebeck and his colleagues at the time were banned from entering some restaurants. However, Bernd Matthies comes to the conclusion: “But in the end such skirmishes always benefited both sides, and so the peace of power slowly set in: the cooks followed what the great author suggested and he refrained from too harsh reviews In 2008, the chef Juan Amador temporarily banned the house from the critic Christoph Teuner after he had not only expressed himself very negatively about the food but also disrespectfully about Amador's wife at the time. A little later, however, there was a reconciliation between the chef and the critic. Bloggers are also banned from the house. Der Spiegel (2014) reported that the blog Sternefresser resorts to invitations or press discounts from restaurants and that the authors sometimes criticize the creations of some star kitchens, such as Hans Haas and Frank Rosin , which are incomprehensible and harsh . Therefore, the employees of the blog are banned from their restaurants.
In France, in 2014, a food blogger was sued for negative criticism and sentenced to pay compensation for pain and suffering: The criticism itself, according to the court, falls under freedom of expression, but the headline was seen as defamation; In it, the blogger had criticized the place as "a place to avoid in Cap Ferret". In the German industry organ Allgemeine Hotel- und Gastronomie-Zeitung , however, the criticism was rated as a legally unproblematic expression of opinion and the French judgment was criticized.
In 2017, the British restaurant critic Jay Rayner wrote an extremely harsh condemnation of the Paris three-star restaurant "Le Cinq" for the London newspaper The Guardian . In it he compared a sofa with a silicone breast implant for a Barbie doll, and eating one of the kitchen creations with eating a condom. The criticism caused a stir internationally and, because of the coarse language images, led to heated discussions and comments in the British, French and German media.
Gastronomic media
Since the end of the sixties, gastronomic themes have appeared in the period , in the seventies Essen & Drink (1972) and Der Feinschmecker (1975) were founded. In addition to travel reports and recipes, the topic of restaurant reviews plays a major role in Der Feinschmecker in particular . In 2008, the gourmet magazine Effilee appeared for the first time , which, in addition to sophisticated reports and interviews, also prints between 12 and 15 restaurant reviews per issue.
Since the 2000s, daily newspapers such as Der Tagesspiegel and the FAZ have also been increasingly devoting themselves to gastronomy criticism, and since 2014 the Süddeutsche Zeitung has also been devoting itself to the weekly local issue . Above all, the FAZ assumed the position of an opinion-forming medium through the prominent critic Jürgen Dollase ; Jakob Strobel y Serra became his successor as restaurant critic in January 2016.
The oldest gastronomic television program still running on German television is the Hessen à la carte series, which has been broadcast since the early 1980s , today with journalists Michaele Scherenberg and Nina Thomas. For the WDR is Stefan Quante international traveling as a culinary journalist. He made reports on the star chefs Ferran Adrià , Harald Wohlfahrt , Heinz Beck and Thomas Bühner, among others . Werner Teufl has produced several gastronomic series for Bavarian Broadcasting since the 1990s .
There are now some gastronomic blogs in Germany such as Die Sternefresser or Trois Etoiles . So-called food bloggers primarily post their own creations on the internet , but also rate restaurant menus.
Restaurant guide
Well-known restaurant guides are Guide Michelin (in Germany since 1964), Gault-Millau (in Germany since 1983), Der Feinschmecker Restaurant Guide and since 2003 Gusto . The Slow Food Association has been publishing so-called pleasure guides since the 2010s as an orientation for restaurants with regional culinary culture in Germany and Austria and since the 1990s for Italy ( Osterie d´Italia ).
Online restaurant guide
Providers such as the Restaurant Ranking Lists portal calculate new evaluation lists from the various evaluations.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Quoted from: Wolfram Siebeck , Kulinarische Notizen , Munich, 1980.
- ↑ Quoted from Bernd Matthies : Enlightenment instead of avant-garde. In. Der Tagesspiegel , Berlin, September 19, 2013.
- ↑ Marion Fehr: Boiling emotions - Juan Amador gives gastro critics a house ban. In: tastesvermittlung.de , 2008, accessed on November 21, 2015.
- ↑ The Star Eaters
- ^ Carsten Holm: Dancing Sole. In: Der Spiegel , November 3, 2014, No. 45.
- ↑ mod: Expensive rebuke. Blogger fined after restaurant criticism. In: stern , July 16, 2014, accessed on October 21, 2017.
- ^ RA Peter Hense: French blogger only expressed her opinion. In: Allgemeine Hotel- und Gastronomie-Zeitung (AHGZ), July 18, 2014.
- ↑ theguardian.com: Le Cinq, Paris: restaurant review
- ^ British food critic gets French steaming. Retrieved December 8, 2018 .
- ^ "Le Cinq" crime scene. April 11, 2017, accessed December 8, 2018 (German).
- ↑ About the show. In: hr-fernsehen , 2017, accessed on October 21, 2017.
- ^ Trois Etoiles
- ↑ Books. In: Slow Food , 2017, accessed on October 21, 2017.