St Briavels Castle

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St Briavels Castle

St Briavels Castle is a castle in the village of St Briavels in the English county of Gloucestershire . The castle is known for its huge gatehouse from the time of King Edward I.

St Briavels Castle was originally built between 1075 and 1129 as the royal administrative center for the Forest of Dean . In the 13th century the castle first became the preferred hunting lodge of King John Ohneland and then the most important center for the manufacture of bolts in England, of which large quantities were required for crossbows in medieval warfare. In the 14th and 15th centuries, ownership of the castle went back and forth between royal favorites and slowly its importance declined and its appearance deteriorated. St Briavels Castle served mainly as a courthouse and notorious guilt prison. The prison conditions there were documented in 1775 by the prison reformer John Howard . After local activities and a parliamentary investigation in the 1830s, reforms in the 19th century put an end to the use of the castle as a prison.

Extensive renovation work at the turn of the 20th century ensured that St Briavels Castle could be taken over as a youth hostel in 1948 . It still fulfills this role today, is managed by English Heritage and is open to the public. The castle is listed as a historical building of the first degree and is a Scheduled Monument .

architecture

St Briavels Castle sits on a prominent spur over the River Wye on the western boundary of the Forest of Dean. The building is primarily constructed from local Old Red sandstone and limestone . The castle grounds are surrounded by a filled moat , which is now a garden. The moat was originally a moat that was fed by a spring below.

Plan of St Briavels Castle early 14th century: A: Gatehouse; B: royal apartments and chapel; C: donjon; D: knight's hall; E: "The Peel"; F: tower; G: moat.

The Donjon of the castle, which collapsed and was demolished in the 18th century, originally had a rectangular plan in the Norman style, 15.6 meters x 13.9 meters, and stood on a mound of clay and stone. The intact donjon was about 20 meters high and looked similar to those of Goodrich Castle and White Castle , both of which were built in the same style in the region around the same time.

The donjon was protected by a stone curtain wall, which still exists today and encloses the castle courtyard. Its irregular, varied floor plan suggests that it was built on the site of an earlier earthwork . It originally had a small, round tower on the southeast corner and probably a gate in the south wall next to the donjon. Other buildings demolished today were a forge and associated buildings along the northeast side of the castle courtyard. On the northwest side of the courtyard there are still a number of medieval residential buildings, e.g. B. a knight's hall , a solar and a chapel . This was originally the accommodation for the constable of the castle and the king. These buildings were restored to the way they are today in the 19th century. Some details, such as the knight's hall building, the open fireplace and the capitals seem to date from the 13th century. The knight's hall and the solar form a two-story building with a floor plan of 23 meters × 10 meters. Next to it is the chapel from the 14th century, in which later fixtures and windows from the 17th century can be found. At one end of the residential wing is the well-known “Forester's Horn” chimney, decorated with the hunting warden's horn, a symbol of forest law and the authority of the castle. The buildings also contain a cellar dungeon; Graffiti from 1671 shows that it was still in use at the time.

The gatehouse from the time of Edward I.

Nikolaus Pevsner describes the gatehouse of St Briavels Castle in his work The Buildings of England as "(...) great (...) a very fine example of royal masonry from this period." It is a massive building with two large D-shaped towers that flank a wide and 14.8 meter long gate passage. They are connected at the top by a large room. This type of gatehouse is often called the “donjon gatehouse” or “gatehouse donjon” because of the massive size of the defenses inside and outside. The first gatehouse of its kind was built at Caerphilly Castle , with further examples in North Wales and Tonbridge Castle . What is unique about the gatehouse of St Briavels Castle is that it is secured by three portcullis , even if some gatehouses, such as At Harlech Castle and Beaumaris Castle , with slots for three portcullis; only two portcullis were installed at a time. The existence of smaller portcullis to defend the entrances from the passage to the porter's lodges is also noteworthy. The gatehouse was originally higher than it is today and the entrance was probably equipped with a drawbridge , which was removed in the 20th century.

The foundations of the gatehouse are protected from undermining by large "corner leaves" . This construction detail is typical of castles in the Welsh Marches , e.g. B. Goodrich Castle and Tonbridge Castle, but unlike these, St Briavels Castle has a solid octagonal arrangement rather than a rectangular one, which corresponds to the shape of the round towers. The gatehouse is well protected except for the upper rear windows. The upper floors were intended for high-ranking guests and these windows provided adequate lighting for the sleeping quarters. The southeast side of the gatehouse is relatively modern, as it was rebuilt after a collapse in the past.

history

11th and 12th centuries

The octagonal corner leaves to prevent undermining

St Briavels Castle appears to date from Norman times, even if the place itself was founded in earlier times. The area was given to William FitzOsbern , the first Earl of Hereford , in 1067. He had a number of castles built throughout the region, e. B. Chepstow Castle , Monmouth Castle , Clifford Castle and Wigmore Castle . However, it appears that FitzOsbern did not have a castle built on the St Briavels site, and the revolt of FitzOsbern's son, Roger de Breteuil , led to the royal steward of the Forest of Dean taking over the village.

St Briavels Castle was built at royal orders sometime between 1075 and 1129, but the exact date of construction is unknown. Walter de Gloucester , the Sheriff of Gloucester and his son, Miles de Gloucester , made St Briavels Castle the administrative center of the Forest of Dean. The location of the castle is well beyond the Anglo-Welsh border, where there was little Welsh presence before the invasion. Hence, the castle appears to have been built to the west for the purpose of royal rule rather than protection of the Welsh Marches. Similar cases in south-west England are e.g. B. Restormel Castle and Lydford Castle in Devon and Cornwall , both regional royal administrative centers. Another view suggests that St Briavels Castle, along with the royal castles Bristol Castle and Gloucester Castle , was intended to protect the Severn Estuary to the south. This early castle was a moth whose keep was believed to be made of wood.

The famous "Forest Horn" fireplace at St Briavels Castle

Miles de Gloucester and his partner Pain FitzJohn increased their grip on the Welsh border in the final years of Henry I's reign , but after the king's death in 1135, England slipped into the civil war of anarchy as the factions of King Stephen and Empress Matilda fought for control of the land. Pain FitzJohn fell early in the fighting, but Miles de Gloucester confessed to Matilda and took control of the castle in his own name. In 1141, the Empress confirmed Miles de Gloucester as Earl of Hereford and officially granted him St Briavels Castle. Under Miles de Gloucester, the castle escaped the worst battles of anarchy. Miles' son, Roger FitzMiles , kept the castle until the reign of Henry II , son of the Empress. But a confrontation with the new king ensured that the earldom was revoked and the castle returned to royal ownership, again as part of the Forest of Dean. King Heinrich II had the wooden donjon replaced with a stone one in the 1160s.

In the early Middle Ages, the royal forests were subject to special royal jurisdiction; forest law was “harsh and arbitrary, just a question of the royal will”. The forests should provide the king with hunting grounds and provide him with raw materials, goods and money. Hunting was possible in the Forest of Dean, but it was even more important to the king than the larger metalworking center because of the large resources of trees that could be turned into charcoal and the iron deposits in the limestone of the region. The locally made iron goods were stored in the castle before being transported to other royal properties. The quantities produced were considerable; 1172 z. B. Henry II received 100 axes , 1000 picks , 2000 shovels and 60,000 nails from St Briavels Castle. King Richard the Lionheart took 50,000 St Briavel horseshoes with him on the crusade . The constable of St Briavels Castle had a large number of responsibilities in the forest, e.g. B. the administration of the rights and privileges of the metal workers, which was guaranteed by the Miners' Court and the Hundreds Court (Eng .: court of miners and court of harde ) at the castle.

13th Century

The inside of the gatehouse of St Briavels Castle

King John Ohneland hunted in the Forest of Dean every November and used St Briavels Castle as a base of operations for these excursions. The King entertained the Welsh Lord Gruffyd ap Cadwallon in 1207 at the castle. This royal interest led to further construction work and substantial investments; for £ 291 was built over the next four years. A stone curtain wall replaced the earlier, wooden one between 1209 and 1211, complete with tower and gate. Several residential buildings for the king were built in the castle courtyard. In 1236–1237 a wooden chapel was built in the castle. The expansion of the castle was probably financed by the increased taxes on metalwork in the entire area and by the end of Johann's reign the castle was almost finished.

In 1217 the Carta de Foresta was approved, in part to mitigate the worst excesses of royal jurisdiction. Forest law, however, allowed a large number of fines to be imposed on local farmers who broke numerous regulations, so that both game and trees in the forest were protected. The trials that took place at St Briavels Castle resulted in relatively high fines , both for illegal logging and poaching. Soon after, the castle also served as a prison, partly for offenders under forest law and for people who could not pay their fines.

After the death of Johann Ohneland, St Briavels Castle became the main center of English stud production. The crossbow was an important military advance over the old bow and arrow. It was the weapon of choice in the time of King Richard the Lionheart. Many crossbows and even more bolts were needed to supply the royal troops. Crossbows were mostly made in the Tower of London , but St Briavels Castle, where the surrounding forest supplied the raw materials, became the national center for the manufacture of bolts.

The passage through the gatehouse; the three portcullis for defense are remarkable.

In 1228 John Malemort , Wilhelm der Schmied and Wilhelm der Fiederer arrived at the castle and started production in a forge in the castle courtyard. In 1233, 120,000 bolts were produced in a period of 120 days, with a man like Malemort producing up to 100 bolts a day. The bolts were then packed in barrels and distributed in large quantities throughout the kingdom. More ironmongery from the castle was sent to Hereford to be used to build siege equipment. The manufacturing capacity of St Briavels Castle gave the king a decisive advantage over possible enemy barons; the supply of arms from the castle to the Marcher Lords , threatened by the Welsh, was one of the sources of royal power at that time.

Since the castle was now a center of arms construction, it was further secured; a new defensive moat, freshly repaired walls and a new chapel were added. The castle was built during the uprising of Richard Marshal against King Henry III. garrisoned by royal troops in 1233 and 1234, suggesting that it had considerable military value at the time. Another indicator of the military importance of the castle and the surrounding forest was the £ 20 annual salary the constable received in 1287. This was as much as the salaries of constables of much larger castles like Rhuddlan Castle or Nottingham Castle .

Under King Edward I, the massive gatehouse was built to protect the entrance to the castle, including special protection against undermining the same. There has been speculation that the royal architect James of St. George may have been responsible for the construction, which was carried out in 1292 and 1293 at a cost of £ 477. The reason for the king to have the castle expanded at that time is unclear, as the castle was very far from the Welsh border and was not in imminent danger of attack. A popular explanation is that because of the amount of weapons and money that were then stored there, the gatehouse was built to improve the castle's internal security. The installation of additional portcullis also supports this explanation. In 1300 the old wooden chapel was rebuilt in stone and in 1310 an extension of the castle walls was built for £ 40 called "The Peel". This followed the line of the old mound and additionally protected the donjon.

14.-17. century

Chapel of St Briavel's Castle, renovated in the 17th century

St Briavels Castle remained an important site during the reign of Edward II because the Welsh Marches were a key region in the wars between the king, his favorites and various factions of nobles during that time. Roger d'Amory was constable of the castle during these early years of Edward's reign. D'Amory was the royal favorite and Edward II visited the castle several times, during which time the rooms and quarters were extensively renovated. The work cost around £ 500, a substantial sum.

D'Amory was ousted by Hugh le Despenser the Younger from the favor of the king and d'Amory fought against the king in the Despenser War 1321-1322. After the war, King Edward placed the Welsh Marches under the control of the Despensers, with Hugh le Despenser the Elder taking responsibility for St Briavels. The Despensers appointed Robert Sapy governor of St Briavels Castle and the other confiscated castles in the Welsh Marches. As a result of the harsh Despensers regiment, outbreaks of violence broke out across the region and Sapy's representative was attacked on his way from St Briavels Castle to London in July 1325 ; his eyes were gouged out, his arms and legs were broken, and all of his records and money were stolen. Eduard and the Despensers were soon deposed by Edward's wife, Isabelle de France . Isabella of France undertook to expand her own lands after her victory and took possession of St Briavels Castle and several other castles. When Isabella was told by her son, Edward III in 1330 . , was overthrown, the castle fell back to the crown.

Towards the end of the 14th century the conflict between the Yorkists and the Lancastrians arose in England . St Brivaels Castle changed hands several times between these parties, but played no major role in the actual conflict. Initially the castle fell to the son of King Edward, Thomas of Woodstock, 1st Duke of Gloucester ; when he lost his royal favor after his revolt against King Richard II , Thomas le Despenser received the castle for life in 1397 as part of the reward for his services to King Richard. With Thomas le Despenser's own loss of power under King Henry IV , the castle then fell to King Henry's son, John of Lancaster, 1st Duke of Bedford . Henry de Beauchamp, 1st Duke of Warwick , a close friend of Henry VI. , received St Briavels Castle and the Forest of Dean around 1445. William Herbert received the castle in 1467 as a reward for his support of Edward IV and the Yorkist faction in the Wars of the Roses ; he was then executed at the behest of the Lancastrian Richard Neville, 16th Earl of Warwick , who claimed the castle for himself. The Earl of Warwick fell at the Battle of Barnet in 1471 , but after the castle was briefly held by '' Robert Hyet '', King Henry VII returned it to Neville's widow, Anne Neville, 16th Countess of Warwick . After Anne Neville's death, the castle fell to Thomas Baynham .

St Briavels Castle 1823

At that time, however, St Briavels Castle was in a period of slow decline for many years, much like many other royal castles in the region, such as B. Bristol Castle and Gloucester Castle. Minor improvements were made, such as: In the 15th century, for example, various windows were built into the inner buildings of the castle for exposure and the chapel was significantly rebuilt in the 17th century. However, these changes were not so critical that it could be argued that these castles were successfully converted into more luxurious residential buildings.

Under the kings James I and Charles I , St Briavels Castle was traditionally given to the Earls of Pembroke . During the English Civil War , Philip Herbert , the 4th Earl of Pembroke and friend of the king, held the castle. Philip Herbert sided with the parliamentarians , but St Briavels Castle played only a minor role in the civil war. With the Stuart Restoration and the installation of Charles II as King of England in 1660, the castle was taken away from the Earls of Pembroke and instead Edward Somerset, 2nd Marquess of Worcester , was given for life. After Edward Somerset's death, Henry Somerset, 1st Duke of Beaufort , received the property. After the castle fell out of favor a few years later, the castle changed hands again. The following owners were more humble English public figures than had been the case in previous years.

18th and 19th centuries

The courtroom at St Briavels Castle in the early Victorian era

In the 18th century, many buildings in the courtyard were torn down to obtain building materials, e.g. B. Lead from the roofing. The donjon partially collapsed in 1752, and in 1777 the remains of the building also collapsed. Victorian authors blamed both the age of the buildings and the theft of building blocks by local farmers for the collapse. The famous forest horn fireplace was moved from its original location to the west side of the building between 1783 and 1824. While St Briavels Castle did not match the picturesque status of other castle ruins in the area, visitors in Georgian times noted that "the ruins are surrounded by beautiful and romantic scenery".

The castle was now basically a prison and courthouse, still under a constable and the forestry law that had been introduced in 1217. The remaining buildings in the courtyard were converted into a courtroom and a room for the jury, with the west side of the gatehouse serving as a prison. St Briavels Castle was primarily a debt prison - in England, until the Debtor's Act of 1869, debtors who were unable to pay their debts or fines could be put in jail indefinitely to persuade them to pay. Conditions in the castle prison became increasingly well known after the prison reformer John Howard's visit in 1775 as part of his investigation for the first edition of his book The State of the Prisons , published two years later. Howard found the prison "in dire need of repair"; the two inmates were locked in a single room, with no movement for most of the year, no fresh water, financial support, or firewood. Under the graffiti on the stone walls of the castle prison one finds the plaintive inscription of a prisoner from this time: “For I have been here a great space; An I am weary of the place. "(German: Because I've been here for a long time, I'm tired of the place.)

In 1831 there were widespread riots in the Forest of Dean, led by Warren James . After military intervention, the insurgents were dispersed and order restored, but a number of complaints were made about the application of local law to miners and metal workers. There had been attacks on St Briavels Castle by disaffected locals before and during the 1780s, but the level of violence in this case was much higher. An Act of Parliament followed which installed a number of commissioners to investigate local practices and recent events at the castle.

The infamous guilty prison of St Briavels Castle in the early Victorian era

The guilty prison of the castle was examined particularly intensively. It found that 397 of 402 cases brought to the St Briavels Castle court were extremely small sums of £ 5 or less (equivalent to £ 373 in 2009), which is what Victorian people believe Time was increasingly unacceptable. A fine of £ 7 (equivalent to £ 522 in 2009) was also required on each case, making the process arduous for the local poor who were persecuted in this way. Upon investigation, it was found that the guard at the prison, which could accommodate up to six prisoners, was appointed by the constable and part of his income consisted of paying 1 shilling per week to use a bed in the prison for each prisoner. Since there was no public funding for this, the prisoners had to rely on their relatives or friends to get food and other essentials, or on donations from the parishes in which they had previously lived.

The castle prison was still in very poor condition. The commissioners noted that the prison “only had one window a foot wide and set back. It could not be opened (...) There was a door at the far end of the passage and a hole in it that was thought to be necessary for the supply of fresh air (...) It led to a hole that led into the lower part of the building, which was always inaccessible for cleaning work, but had a discharge to the moat until 6 years ago; the air pulls up from there into the passage and the room. There is no water accessible for the prisoners and so they needed someone else to get some for them. "

Prison reforms followed, e.g. For example, the improvement of the condition of the castle's supply facilities, even if visitors continued to notice how the castle was “patched up and stuffed like a worn shoe”. In 1838 the office of constable was transformed into that of "Chief Commissioner for Forests and Forests". The court and jury room were converted into a classroom of a local school, although expropriation negotiations were occasionally held in the chapel and the castle maintained its function as a prison until 1842 when the remaining inmates were transferred to Littledean prison.

20th and 21st centuries

The gatehouse and the buildings in the courtyard were made habitable again in 1906 and were converted into a youth hostel in 1948 . In 1961 the moat was partially filled in and turned into a garden. English Heritage has listed St Briavels Castle as a Grade I Historic Structure and it is a Scheduled Monument. The entire site is open to the public and is managed by English Heritage .

Individual evidence

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  62. ^ Society for the Improvement of Prison Discipline and for the Reformation of Juvenile Offenders: The Seventh Committee Report. Cornhill, London 1827. p. 175.
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  64. ^ Henry George Nicholls: The Forest of Dean: an Historical and Descriptive Account. John Murray. London 1858. p. 114.
  65. The Saturday Magazine . No. 413, December 1838. Parker, London 1838. p. 218.
  66. ^ Henry George Nicholls: The Forest of Dean: an Historical and Descriptive Account. John Murray. London 1858. p. 10.

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Coordinates: 51 ° 44 ′ 19 ″  N , 2 ° 38 ′ 31.9 ″  W.