Helmut Wagner (mountaineer)
Helmut "Helli" Wagner (born March 19, 1939 in Telfs ) is an Austrian all-round mountaineer .
biography
Wagner is the son of Anna and Franz Wagner, who died in Italy at the end of the war. In 1956 he became a member of the Telfer climbing guild, where he found a rope companion and friend in Helmut Baldauf. At the age of 18 he became a member of the Innsbruck Alpine Club “Die Karwendler”.
Despite modest mobility and equipment, he successfully learned the necessary climbing technique and knowledge of makeshift mountain rescue techniques. In 1959 he came to Chamonix for 14 days at the invitation of ENSA.
In 1961 Wagner got a job at the main association of the Austrian Alpine Club to control and equip the 450 refuges, the ÖAV and DAV with mountain rescue equipment as required. From Bregenz to Vienna, he visited all 450 refuges and climbed numerous peaks. At the same time, Wagner was volunteer state training manager for the Austrian Mountain Rescue Service in Tyrol for 7 years. In 1970 he received the mountain guide diploma.
As early as the 1960s, Helmut Wagner was one of the “strongest Tyrolean top alpinists”. Wagner has specialized in the difficult winter ascents, particularly noteworthy here is the first winter ascent of the Laliderer Nordverschnealtung and the direct north face in January 1964 with Rolf Walter . Other great tours of this period include the Grandes Jorasses - Walker pillar , Matterhorn north face and Montblanc - Frêneyp pillar . Wagner was able to record a special summit victory in the Himalayas : together with Peter Vogler and Gerhard Bauer, he climbed the Kangchenjunga western summit Yalung-Kang ( 8505 m ) in 1975 as part of an expedition of the German and Austrian Alpine Association.
In 1977 Helmut Wagner founded the Wetterstein Mountaineering School. In his ten years as a mountain guide, he continued to climb large Alpine walls and thus completed his collection of all 4000-meter massifs in the Alps .
Awards
Important tours
- 1958 - First solo ascent of the Scharnitzspitze ( 2471 m ), south face “Spitzenstätter / Baldauf” ( VI- ), Wetterstein Mountains
- 1959 - Grand Capucin ( 3838 m ), east face “Bonatti / Ghigo”, with Helmut Baldauf, Mont Blanc group
- 1960 - Große Zinne ( 2999 m ), North Face Direttissima ( VI + ), with Helmut Baldauf, Dolomites ; Western pinnacle ( 2973 m ), north face “Franzosen-Führe” ( VI + / A3 ), 15th ascent with Helmut Baldauf, Dolomites
- 1961 - First winter ascent of the Großer Bettelwurf ( 2726 m ), north face ( V ), with Walter Larcher and Ernst Knapp, Karwendel
- 1962 - Matterhorn ( 4477 m ), north face “Schmid Route”, with Helmut Baldauf, Valais Alps ; Grandes Jorasses ( 4208 m ), north face “Walkerpfeiler”, with Helmut Baldauf, Mont Blanc group
- 1963 - First ascent of the Hohe Wand ( 2715 m ), direct south face ( VI + ), with Peter Konzert, Mieminger Gebirge
- 1964 - First winter ascent of the Laliderer northern intersection ( VI + ), with Rolf Walter; first winter ascent of the Lalidererspitze ( 2583 m ), direct north face, "Rebitsch / Spiegl / Rainer" ( VI ), with Rolf Walter, Karwendel ; first ski tour of the north face of the Hochfernerspitze ( 3463 m ), with Ander Hörtnagl, Zillertal Alps
- 1967 - First ascent of the Scharnitzspitze ( 2471 m ), south face “Telferweg” ( VI / A2 ), with Sigfried Aeberli and Rudolf Estmeister, Wetterstein Mountains ; Aiguille du Dru ( 3733 m ), west face “Magnone-Führe” ( VI- / A2 ), with Hans Gasteiger, Mont-Blanc group
- 1968 - Große Zinne ( 2999 m ), north face- [Direttissima (climbing) | Superdirettissima] ( VI + / A2 ), with Rolf Walter, Dolomites
- 1970 - Piz Cengalo ( 3370 m ), north pillar “Cengalo pillar” ( VI- ), with Ivor Ganahl, Bergell ; Les Droites ( 4000 m ), north face "Cornuau-Daville", 5th ascent, with Ivor Ganahl, Mont Blanc group
- 1971 - Piz Ciavazes ( 2228 m ), south face “Pit Schubert” ( VI ), with Rolf Walter, Dolomites
- 1972 - Piz Badile ( 3308 m ), north-east face ( VI- ), with Siegfried Aeberli, Bergell ; Aiguille Noire de Peuterey ( 3772 m ), west face "Ratti / Vitali" ( VI- ), with Ivor Ganahl, Mont Blanc group
- 1973 - Cima Scotoni ( 2876 m ), west face “Lacedelli / Ghedina” ( VI + ), with Ivor Ganahl, Dolomites ; Pilastro Tofana di Rozes ( 3225 m ), southeast edge “Constantini / Ghedina” ( VI ), with Ivor Ganahl, Dolomites; Civetta - Quota IGM ( 2992 m ), north-west face "Philipp / Flamm" ( VI ), with Herman Heinzle, Dolomites; Torre Trieste ( 2436 m ), south face “Carlesso / Sandri” ( VI + ), with Hermann Heinzle, Dolomites; Marmolada di Rocca ( 3342 m ), south face “Vinatzer / Castiglioni” ( VI ), with Hermann Heinzle, Dolomites
- 1974 - Gletscherhorn ( 3983 m ), 2nd ascent of the north face "Riss / Etter / Jaun", with Hermann Heinzle, Bernese Oberland ; Grand Pilier d 'Angle ( 4243 m ), 3rd ascent of the north face “Cechinel / Nomine”, with Ivor Ganahl, Mont Blanc group ; Mont Blanc ( 4810 m ), Frêney central pillar “Bonington” ( VI- ), with Ivor Ganahl, Mont Blanc group
- 1975 - Kangchenjunga , 2nd ascent of the western summit “Yalung Kang” ( 8505 m ), with Peter Vogler and Gerhard Bauer, Himalaya
- 1978 - Eiger ( 3967 m ), northeast face “Lauper”, with Kurt Lyncke, Bernese Oberland ; 1. Complete ascent of the Hohen Munde ( 2662 m ), direct south face, ( VI ), with Manfred Abelein
- 1985 - Winter ascent of the north face of the Ortler ( 3899 m ), with Kurt Lyncke, Ortler Alps
- 1986 - Monte Rosa - Signalkuppe ( 4554 m ), east face “Macugnaga wall”, with Traudl Kraus, Valais Alps
- 1989 - Mont Blanc du Tacul ( 4248 m ), northeast flank “Gervasutti Couloir”, with Traudl Kraus, Mont Blanc group
literature
- Ulli Auffermann: Decision in the wall . 1st edition. Schall-Verlag, Alland 2010, ISBN 978-3-900533-62-5 , p. 448 .
- Ulli Auffermann, Hans Kammerlander: The large Matterhorn lexicon from A – Z. With over 800 keywords . 1st edition. Schall-Verlag, Alland 2014, ISBN 978-3-900533-79-3 , p. 296 .
- Ulli Auffermann: A tightrope walk: the survival instinct of well-known alpinists . 1st edition. Bruckmann, Munich 2012, ISBN 978-3-7654-5987-0 , p. 224 .
- Reinhold Messner, Domenico Rudatis, Vittorio Varale: Die Extremes - German-language edition . BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich 1974, ISBN 3-405-11305-9 , p. 190 .
- Günter Sturm: Success on the Kantsch . BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich 1975, ISBN 3-405-11589-2 , p. 142 .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Document ( Memento of the original dated May 30, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. in the Alpinwiki ( memento of the original dated May 30, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. by Hans Föger; Retrieved on April 2, 2015, 5:51 pm
- ↑ Messner, Rudatis, Varale 1974, p. 112 and 155
- ↑ a b Entry in the Alpinwiki ( Memento of the original dated May 30, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. ; Retrieved on April 2, 2015, 6:28 pm
- ↑ Auffermann 2010, p. 189
- ↑ Auffermann 2012, p. 167
- ↑ a b Auffermann, Kammerlander 2014, p. 259
- ↑ Sturm 1975, p. 45 and 127
- ↑ Auffermann 2010, p. 190
Web links
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Wagner, Helmut |
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES | Wagner, Helli (nickname) |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian extreme mountaineer and mountain guide |
| DATE OF BIRTH | March 19, 1939 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Telfs |