Eigelstein (Cologne)

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View from the Eigelsteintorburg in north direction to the Agneskirche (around 1901)
Eigelstein, view in south direction into the Eigelstein quarter

The Eigelstein is a street in the north of Cologne's old town that has already been documented in the Roman era and today forms the central axis of the Eigelstein district named after it; it runs in a straight line in a south-north direction with a length of 568 meters from Turiner Straße via the Eigelsteintorburg to Ebertplatz .

history

Eigelstein - "Off dem Eigelstein" at the level of the Machabäer monastery in the Cologne cityscape from 1570 by Arnold Mercator
View from the Eigelstein to the Eigelsteintorburg (1879/80)

As a northern extension of the city's Cardo maximus, the Eigelstein represented part of the Roman Heerstraße (today Bundesstraße 9 ), which led from Cologne to the legion camp in Neuss . The Roman legions marched over this when they were being transferred between Cologne and the Lower Rhine. The name “platea aquilina” (Adlersgasse) appeared until the 17th century. The French occupiers used the name rue de l'aigle (Eagle Street) instead . Trankgasse, Marzellenstraße, Eigelstein and, further along, Neusser Straße still mark the straight route of the Roman Limesstraße . A Roman grave area lined the area around this military road. Because of its particularly pure, diluvial sand, the oldest glassworks in Cologne were located in this area in the pre-Claudian period (middle of the first century AD) . In the houses Eigelstein No. 14 and No. 35–39 remains of 17 round and rectangular glass ovens have been found.

The long controversial origin of the name "Eigelstein" seems to have been clarified: for a long time the name should have derived either from the Latin aquila ( eagle ), the heraldic animal of the Roman legions , or from rue de l'aigle , the street name from the French occupation from 1794 onwards. At that time, however, there were cemeteries on Limesstrasse , on whose tombs stone pine cones were often affixed as a symbol of immortality : These looked like acorns to the people of Cologne , so they were called "Eychelsteyne". The less urban character of the area is confirmed in 1655 when legal questions arose in connection with a deer caught on the Eigelstein.

Farmer's bench

The arable farmers in Cologne worked within the city and formed farmers 'banks ("Boorbank") - a kind of farmers' association. The first statutes of the Eigelstein peasantry date from September 30, 1391. This peasant bench was the largest and most influential of the five Cologne peasant benches . The negotiations of the Bauerngeding ("Burgeding") took place in the archways, they were led by two builders ("Geburmeistere"), the Eigelstein had 12 builders. The subjects of negotiation were in particular field violence, neighbors' disputes and compliance with the corridor regulations. In 1442 Johann von Merrhem led a lawsuit against the peasantry because of the "cattle drift on the Eigelstein". The Eigelsteiner Bauerbank was active until after 1740.

Hereditary Bailiwick

A Cologne court of the hereditary bailiff was also located on the Eigelstein. It was originally located in Volkhoven , but was moved to the Eigelstein due to mutual disputes. The court of the hereditary bailiff had already been bought in 1262 by the hereditary bailiff Rütger (Rüdiger I von Heppendorf, hereditary bailiff of Cologne; † January 10, 1268 in battle). Bur (g) bann, perceived by Bur (g) bannmeister, has existed since 1292, which had to punish minor offenses on the field such as scolding, hitting, stealing, overbuilding, digging and field damage. The area between the Gereon district towards the Rhine and comprised parts of the Kunibert parish was subject to the court. The inherited areas of the Hacht district were also subordinate to him. A mayor appointed by the Bailiff presided . On March 24, 1422, Johann von Esch and other Cologne citizens demanded that the grief placed on Esch by the lay judge of the Eigelsteingericht be put aside because of illegality. On September 2, 1436, Cologne hereditary bailiff Gumprecht von Neuenahr enfeoffed Werner Overstolz with 24 acres of land, on February 14, 1458 Heinrich von Unkelbach legally sold half an acre of land in front of the Eigelsteintor to the brewer Thomas von der Linden. Archbishop Ernst of Cologne appointed appellate judges for the court on the Eigelstein in 1590. Before the Eigelsteinicht, Anna Maria Therlaens sold a total of three acres of garden land on May 2, 1679 (Mariengarten in front of the Eigelsteinpforte). The bailiff had been under the archbishop's authority since 1689.

School, monastery and handicraft

In 1450, the theology professor Johannes von Kuyck had built the Burse "Bursa Cucaña" ("Bursa Kuck '") on the Eigelstein, from which today's Dreikönigsgymnasium later developed. In 1550, the Burse was relocated to Maximinenstrasse in the house "zu den drei Kronen" due to its disrepair. The monastery of St. Maria Magdalena for penance existed from 1468 to 1802 and accepted whores from the area. "If these people abandoned their dissolute life, they were accepted into the monastery designated for this purpose"; but they instigated an uprising here in 1492 - presumably because of forced labor.

The area around the "Eygelsteyn" was a craftsmen and small business district in the Middle Ages. This included the printer Heinrich von Neuss, who printed the “Gospel Harmony” here on September 30, 1508: “Vnd has been printed tzo Coellen vp dem Eygelsteyn by the Ersamenburger Hinrich van Nuyß…” Later he specified the address of his printing house with the note "Haus zum Leopard" ("tzom Leubard"), which was probably on Neumarkt ( Cologne Alexianer ). In the same year 1508 the owners of taverns, hostels and cookshops on the Eigelstein and some other streets were forbidden to give drinks to the students.

Buildings

Brussels Court Restaurant (1840)
Restaurant Em halve Mond (1880)

The oldest structure is named after the Eigelstein Eigelsteintorburg , originally "porta aquilina" and "porta eigilis" was later called, was known in the Middle Ages "Eygelsteynsportzen" and from 1812 "porte l'aigle". It was built between 1228 and 1260 as part of Cologne's city wall , but was first mentioned in a document in 1313 and probably largely demolished in 1424. In 1889 it was renovated and expanded. Since June 1990 it has been home to the Open Jazz House School . The location of the “Marvorenhaus”, completed by the architect Nikolaus Krakamp on May 17, 1744 , is unclear. To this day Kölsch is brewed in Eigelstein No. 41–43 , the glazed front of the building of the private brewery Gaffel Becker & Co allows a view of parts of the brewery. Here in 1170 Ezelin der Bruer ("Ezelinus bruere") - the first named beer brewer in Cologne - acquired half a house in the Niederich district by registering it in the land register . In 1822 the “Brusseler Hof” hotel opened at the same address. Influential farmers met in the “Em halve Mond” brewery (No. 90; built in 1676), where they founded the “Carnevals Society Greesberger” in 1852 (Greesbergstrasse is now near the Torburg). No. 101 is a residential and commercial building that was built around 1890 and has been a listed building since July 1, 1980. The residential building no. 115 is 2.56 meters wide and 30 meters long and is the narrowest house in Cologne. It was built in 1997 for 1.1 million DM. It does not have its own side walls, but uses the fire walls of the neighboring buildings. No. 121 houses the Em Kölsche Boor brewery (Im kölschen Bauer), which has been run by the brewer Mathias Lölgen since September 1760, initially under the name “Zum Elephanten” and since 1907 has had its current name. No. 126 is a residential building built around 1890.

Modern times

Eigelstein No. 115 - the narrowest house
Eigelstein No. 126

On 13 September 1804 drew Napoleon Bonaparte during the French occupation during his state visit with church bells and cannon solemnly through the Eigelsteintor an order from Eigelstein on Marzellenstraße, Hohe Straße and Schildergasse the Neumarkt reach. He stayed at the Neumarkt in the Blankenheimer Hof .

When the City Council of Cologne decided on January 9, 1883 to raise the railway tracks in the city and run them through the city on dams or brick viaducts , this also had an impact on the Eigelstein. The railway line from / to Cologne Central Station consists mainly of embankment embankment, only the route from Eigelstein to Hansaring is on viaducts. In order to achieve the required clearance of 4.64 meters for the Eigelstein underpass , the street - which is one of the highest in the city - had to be lowered by around two meters.

According to the Cologne Brewery Register, a total of 18 breweries were registered on the Eigelstein in 1838 . From 1359 the brewery "Zur Mühle" is occupied, 1476 "Zum Bierbaum", in 1690 the brewery family Wiedenfeld runs the inn "Zum Overstolz" in house no. 51 and in 1798 "Zum Bensberg" is registered in no. The Gaffel Brewery had its headquarters in No. 41 since May 24, 1908. In No. 51, the Olympic cinema, initially equipped with 640 seats and expanded to 800 seats in 1958, opened on September 10, 1919, which was demolished in 1971. From 1929 onwards, the Tietz department store chain had a branch at Eigelstein No. 81–83 with 82 employees, the smallest of the 17 large Tietz branches. On February 24, 1933, SA men Walter Spangenberg and Winand Winterberg were shot in clashes between Communists and National Socialists in the Eigelstein district.

In August 2014, the Gaffel Brewery decided that the entire beer production would be relocated from Eigelstein to Porz-Gremberghoven for reasons of capacity and productivity ; the urban planning provides for residential development for the area that will become available.

Eigelstein district

The immediate vicinity of the Eigelstein with the side streets that flow into it is called the Eigelstein-Viertel (in Kölsch Eijelsteinsveedel ). Along with the Severinsviertel, it is one of the most original “ Veedeln ” in Cologne. The Eigelstein begins in the north at Ebertplatz, Greesbergstraße, Thürmchenswall and Gereonswall at the Eigelsteintor flow into the Eigelstein, then in a southerly direction Dagobertstraße, Im Stavenhof, Unter Krahnenbäume, Weidengasse, Eintrachtstraße and Machabäerstraße. The first view of the city of Cologne from 1570 showed the Weidengasse (“Weidejaß”; 594 m) flowing into it as a remote street with thatched huts, inhabited by “Kappesburen”, city soldiers and laundresses. In 1974 an Anatolian guest worker opened Cologne's first Turkish vegetable shop in Weidengasse. Today it is called "Little Istanbul" because of the predominantly Turkish population. The Stavenhof ("Stüverhoff"; 214 m) is named after the mayor family Stabe, who belong to the patricians . It used to be one of the three brothel streets in Cologne , along with the Kleine Brinkgasse and the Nahelsgasse , where numerous prostitutes went about their business until the entire city was declared a restricted area in 1972. The street Unter Krahnenbäume (312 m) was divided by the route of the north-south route, its eastern part belongs to the Kunibertsviertel. It used to be called "Hinter Cranenbaumen"; the Cranenboym was a medieval expression for the juniper bush, but there was also an estate called “Zum Krainich” here. Cologne originals such as “ Orgels Palm ” and “ Fressklötsch ” were at home in the much-sung street . Heinrich Böll set a monument to the quarter with his essay “Streets like this” (epilogue to the Chargesheimer photoband; September 1958). Willi Ostermann dedicated the Cologne homeland song "Kinddauf-Fess Unger Krahnebäume" (1936) to her, Toni Steingass sang "Da Prinz vun Krahnebäume" (1975), and Wolfgang Niedecken published "Unger Krahnebäume" (2004).

The Turiner Straße / Ursulastraße ( north-south route ) was moved under the Eigelstein in 1972 by tunneling , so that at this point of the Eigelstein there is a traffic route on three levels, including the railway tunnel. The Eigelstein-Viertel was declared a redevelopment area in April 1989 and the redevelopment was completed on July 4th, 2012. The northern extension of the Eigelstein is Neusser Straße, and the southern one is Marzellenstraße.

Cologne's oldest street festival has been held in the Eigelstein district since 1976 , making it one of the oldest street festivals in Germany.

Others

The track cyclist Jean Schorn - multiple German champion - lived in Unter Krahnenbäume, the cyclist Toni Merkens (world and Olympic champion) lived in the Stavenhof. "Rund am Eigelstein" is a cycling race that has been taking place since 1977 with a two-kilometer circuit around the Eigelstein district. The " Eigelstein Musikproduktion GmbH " was founded in 1979 by Wolfgang Hamm and brought out the BAP albums Wolfgang Niedecken's BAP rocks other kölsche Leeder (1979) and Affjetaut (1980). De Räuber published the carnival song Am Eigelstein is Musik in 1994 .

"Eigelstein" is also the name of a chain of Kölsch beer pubs run by W&W EigelStein GmbH in the Medienhafen Düsseldorf (opened in June 2005), Münster (October 2009) and Essen-Rüttenscheid (2011).

The Eigelstein-Viertel is an important location in the thriller Bitter Lemon (2010) by Wolfgang Kaes .

literature

  • Joachim Oepen: A sunken world. In: The Eigelstein. Up and down. (= Location of Cologne history. Volume 2). Bachem-Verlag, Cologne 2014, ISBN 978-3-7616-2706-8 , pp. 65-69. (therein on Maria Magdalena for penance, see p. 67) (catalog accompanying the exhibition of the same name)

Web links

Commons : Eigelstein  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Eigelstein . In: Heinrich August Pierer , Julius Löbe (Hrsg.): Universal Lexicon of the Present and the Past . 4th edition. tape 5 . Altenburg 1858, p. 534 ( zeno.org ).
  2. ^ Fritz Fremersdorf: The beginnings of the Roman glassworks in Cologne. In: Cologne yearbook for prehistory and early history. 8, 1965/1966, pp. 24-43.
  3. Special exhibition: Above and below on the Eigelstein. In: Kölnische Rundschau. January 28, 2014.
  4. This was also the case with the Mainz cemetery, which was named "Eychelstein" in a document from 1275, from which in 1646 "Eygelstein" was derived
  5. ^ Albrecht Corder, Joachim Rückert, Reiner Schulze: City - community - cooperative. 2003, p. 192.
  6. Peter Fuchs (Ed.) Chronicle of the history of the city of Cologne. Volume 1, 1990, ISBN 3-7743-0259-6 , p. 322.
  7. Communications from the city archive of Cologne. Volume 10, 1896, p. 277.
  8. Friedrich Everhard Freiherr von Mering, Ernst Weyden (Ed.): History of the castles, manors, abbeys and monasteries in the Rhineland. 1833, p. 136 f.
  9. Mary Magdalene is the patron saint of women, the seduced and repentant sinners
  10. ^ Christoph Reske: The book printers of the 16th and 17th centuries in the German-speaking area. 2007, p. 428.
  11. ^ Leonard Ennen: History of the city of Cologne. Volume 3, 1869, p. 886.
  12. Peter Fuchs (Ed.) Chronicle of the history of the city of Cologne. Volume 1, 1990, p. 168.
  13. Peter Fuchs (Ed.) Chronicle of the history of the city of Cologne. Volume 1, 1990, p. 164.
  14. ^ Carl Dietmar, Werner Jung: Small illustrated history of the city of Cologne. 2002, p. 128.
  15. ^ H. Wiethaus, K. Schellen, Joseph Stübben: Cologne and its buildings. 1888, p. 379.
  16. Peter Fuchs (Ed.) Chronicle of the history of the city of Cologne. Volume 2, 1991, ISBN 3-7743-0261-8 , p. 227.
  17. Gaffel leaves the Eigelstein. In: Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger. August 13, 2014.
  18. Wolfgang Kaes: Bitter Lemon: Thriller. 2010, no p.

Coordinates: 50 ° 56 ′ 51.9 ″  N , 6 ° 57 ′ 24.2 ″  E