Dior Men
Dior Men ( dt .: "Dior Men" ) has been the name of the division for high-priced men's fashion and accessories of the French luxury goods manufacturer Christian Dior SA since 2018.
From 2000 to 2018 the division was called Dior Homme [ djɔːʁ ɔm ] ( dt .: "Dior man" ). From its establishment in 1970, it was known as Christian Dior Monsieur .
Under the name Dior , clothing , shoes , accessories , leather goods , glasses and fragrances as well as cosmetics for men are offered via an international network of Dior boutiques and upscale specialist retailers in the upper price segment . From 2000 to 2007, the Frenchman Hedi Slimane was chief designer of the Dior men's division ; His successors in this function have been the Belgian Kris Van Assche (2007-2018) and the Briton Kim Jones (since 2018). The latter renamed the men's fashion division from Dior Homme to Dior Men in 2018 . Like Dior's women's fashion, Dior Men belongs to the company 's fashion division, Christian Dior Couture SA , and has been headed by the French manager Sidney Toledano since 1998 . The ready-to-wear -Kollektionen of Dior Men are twice a year in international men's fashion week in Paris presented.
Brand history
Christian Dior Monsieur
Dior had been producing classic men's fashion since 1970, albeit as a licensed store under the name Christian Dior Monsieur . With the appointment of Hedi Slimane as chief designer of the men's collection by Dior boss Bernard Arnault in 2000, the name and image of the clothing line were changed for the following season .
Hedi Slimane
For Slimane and the new men's collection, his own studio spaces , which had not previously existed for Dior men's fashion, were set up in the Dior headquarters on Avenue Montaigne in Paris. The first collection for the autumn / winter 2001–02 season was presented in early 2001 in Paris.
In contrast to the somewhat staid Christian Dior Monsieur clothing line for more mature men, which was last designed by Patrick Lavoix from 1992 to 2000, Slimane propagated with Dior Homme a minimalist fashion with extremely narrow silhouettes and modern cuts, a concentration on the monochrome shades of black , gray and white as well as androgynous looks for a young male target group . However, female customers quickly became interested in the slim-fitting Dior Homme models. Slimane black suits with narrow lapels and ruler-shaped ties , tight leather jackets and skin-tight skinny jeans became the trademark of the Dior Homme collections, which were mainly made in Italy . The range of men's clothing sizes at Dior has been expanded beyond size 48.
The press announced that Slimane had "transferred the heroin chic of Kate Moss , the rock esprit of Pete Doherty to men's fashion." This then new interpretation of men's fashion spread throughout the world of men's fashion. The new brand identity was supported by advertising campaigns - first photographed by Richard Avedon , then by Slimane himself - and not least from 2001 by the introduction of several perfumes under the name Dior and Dior Homme . Slimane had the collections presented on the catwalks by very young and slim male amateur models or by “pale boys in the look of a prostitute ”, some of whom he had recruited himself or through employees on the street, including in Berlin . The fashion shows sometimes took place in less elegant industrial halls in Parisian suburbs to music played live. As a result, sales of Dior men's clothing increased.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America honored Slimane with the 2002 Best International Fashion Designer award for his work at Dior Homme . Under Slimane, a stylized bee (French 'abeille') was introduced as a logo for Dior Homme , which can be found, for example, as embroidery on selected shirts, polo shirts, hats or ties. Karl Lagerfeld himself said that the reason for his radical diet in 2001, in which he lost 42 kilos within 12 months, was the slim suits from Dior Homme that he wanted to wear.
Slimane, who had previously worked for Yves Saint Laurent from 1996 , was unable to agree on a continuation of his contract with Dior in 2007, which would have included the creation of a fashion brand under his own name, and left the company.
Kris van Assche
In the same year, Slimane's successor as chief designer at Dior Homme was his Belgian assistant Kris Van Assche, who presented his first collection in mid-2007 for the spring / summer 2008 season. Van Assche had already worked as Slimane's assistant at Saint Laurent from 1998 and followed him to Dior in 2000. In 2004 he quit Dior in order to build his own fashion brand named after him, which existed until 2015. From 2007 he worked for both brands as chief designer. Van Assche continued the Dior Homme collection with its own accents, turned away from overly boyish models and Slimane's borrowings from the punk scene and concentrated on often simple, monochrome models, mainly in gray, beige, blue, black, white and brown, in narrow sizes and modern cuts. Overall, the Dior Homme fashion under Van Assche became a bit more commercial and therefore more wearable. In response to the ongoing demand from female customers, Van Assche launched the Dior Homme Petite Taille ("small size") collection in early 2010 with a denim collection especially for women . In 2015, the Dior Homme division moved into redesigned offices and studios on five floors in Paris' Rue Marignan next to a Dior Homme boutique on the corner of the posh avenue Montaigne.
Kim Jones
In mid-March 2018, the Dior parent company LVMH announced that Van Assche would be replaced by the former men's fashion designer at Louis Vuitton , Kim Jones, and would take on a different position in the group. Since Jones took over the direction of Dior's menswear division, it has been known as the Dior Men .
The Dior Men collection is offered through selected Dior boutiques that carry the men's collection, or special Dior Men boutiques as well as in upscale specialist shops. Although Dior's men's fashion division is officially called Dior Men , the men's clothing label only says 'Dior'. In the past, however, the Dior Homme lettering could sometimes be found on accessories such as glasses or shoes .
Cosmetics
In contrast to the fashion division, Dior's cosmetics division did not belong to Christian Dior SA until 2017 , but to LVMH . The perfume licenses had already been sold by Dior in 1968 to LVMH's predecessor company. LVMH has been majority owned by Dior owner Bernard Arnault since 1989, see corporate structure of the Christian Dior company . The entire Dior company has been part of LVMH since 2017.
The first men's fragrance from Christian Dior, Eau Sauvage (literally: " Wildes Wasser "), was launched in 1966 and, like the classics Jules (1980), Fahrenheit (1988) and Dune pour Homme (1997), is still today available. These fragrances were and are all marketed under the Christian Dior name . With the help of Hedi Slimane, the Higher fragrance was launched in 2001 in a sleek, modern packaging under the name Dior , which appeared the following year in the variation Higher Black and in 2003 as Higher Energy . Under the name Dior Homme , the men's perfumes Dior Homme (2005), Dior Homme Intense (2007), Dior Homme Cologne (2007), Dior Homme Sport (2008) and Dior Homme Eau for Men (2014), partly with New editions in later years, published. At the same time, there were further developments or variations of the classics Eau Sauvage and Fahrenheit by Christian Dior. Christian Dior Paris also launched special fragrance series for its own boutiques from 2004, such as high-priced perfumes in larger bottles called La Collection Privèe (renamed the Maison Christian Dior Collection in 2018 ), which in addition to numerous women's perfumes also include men's fragrances ( Bois d'Argent , Vétiver , Cologne Royal etc.) and many unisex perfumes. The Les Elexirs Précieux range, launched in 2014, comprised four high-priced unisex perfumes that have not been sold since 2019.
Since 2007, a high-priced skin care range has existed under the name Dior Homme Dermo System in collaboration with the Harvard General Clinical Unit for Research Trials in Skin (CURTIS) at the Massachusetts General Hospital at Harvard University , for which Hedi Slimane designed the packaging.
Fashion collections
Hedi Slimane gave names to his Dior Homme collections; the first in 2001 he called Solitaire . This tradition was continued until the early 2010s under Kris Van Assche. Slimane, who is interested in punk and rock music or indie rock , sometimes staged rock concert- like happenings for the Dior Homme fashion shows , in which the background music played an essential role, which in turn was sometimes performed live at the venue by bands or DJs, sometimes exclusively for Dior was created.
| season | Name of the collection | Music for the catwalk fashion show |
|---|---|---|
| Fall / Winter 2001 | "Solitaire" | Benjamin Diamond ( French House musician) |
| Spring / summer 2002 | "Boys Don't Cry" / "RED" | Nicholas |
| Fall / Winter 2002 | "Reflection" | Readymade FC (French electro project ) |
| Spring / summer 2003 | "Follow Me" | Readymade FC |
| Fall / Winter 2003 | "Chandelier" | Bosco (Track: Change Yourself) |
| Spring / summer 2004 | "Strip" | DSL |
| Fall / Winter 2004 | "Victim of the Crime" | Phoenix (Track: Dior Theme) |
| Spring / Summer 2005 | (untitled) | Beck (Song title: Dior Theme) |
| Fall / Winter 2005 | "In The Morning" | Razorlight |
| Spring / Summer 2006 | "The World Was A Mess, But His Hair Was Perfect" | The rakes |
| Fall / Winter 2006 | "These Gray Days" | Eight legs |
| Spring / Summer 2007 | "We Look Good Together" | Littl'ans (British alternative rock band) |
| Fall / Winter 2007 | "Navigate" | These New Puritans |
| Spring / Summer 2008 |
(Transition from Slimane to Van Assche, no fashion show, only presentation of the models) |
no music |
| Fall / Winter 2008 | "Lumiere Du Nord" (first fashion show directed by Van Assche) |
Wim Mertens (Music title: Wound to Wound) |
| Spring / Summer 2009 | "Planisphere" | Justice (French band, music title: Planisphere) |
| Fall / Winter 2009 | "Angles" | Malcolm McLaren (song title: Deep In Vogue) |
| Spring / Summer 2010 | "Cold Love" | Ghinzu ( Song : Cold Love) |
| Fall / Winter 2010 | "Temple Of Love" | The Sisters of Mercy feat Ofra Haza (Song: Temple of Love 1992) |
| Spring / Summer 2011 | "Lessness" | Shigeru Umebayashi , Peer Raben (Music Title: Main Theme of 2046 , Dark Chariot) |
| Fall / Winter 2011 | "Temple Of Love" | Gray area (song title: polar bear ) |
| Spring / Summer 2012 | "Less and More" | Gater (Music Title: Taboo - Requiem for a Dream Remix) |
| Fall / Winter 2012 | "A Soldier on My Own" | Woodkid (song title: Iron) |
| Spring / Summer 2013 | "Light" | Koudlam (French symphony composer, music title: Love Song) |
| Fall / Winter 2013 | Anne Clark (Track: Our Darkness) | |
| Spring / Summer 2014 | Pet Shop Boys (Music title: Paninaro, Domino Dancing) | |
| Fall / Winter 2014 | Planningtorock (Music title: Human Drama (Paula Temple 'Gender's Just A Lie' Remix)) | |
| Spring / Summer 2015 | Son of Sam (Song: Nature Makes A Mistake (1984)) | |
| Fall / Winter 2015 | Koudlam (song title: The Landsc Apes) | |
| Spring / Summer 2016 | She Past Away (Music title: Kasvetli Kutlama) | |
| Fall / Winter 2016 | "The art of falling apart" | Nitzer Ebb (Music title: I'm here) |
| Spring / Summer 2017 | "Fun Fair" | Frédéric Sanchez (electro mix) |
| Fall / Winter 2017 | "Hardior" | |
| Spring / Summer 2018 | "Late night summer" | Radiohead , REM , Depeche Mode |
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ How Kim Jones Is Remaking the Dior Man nytimes.com, February 27, 2019
- ↑ Dior Finance: History of the Group ( Memento of the original dated November 7, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , dior-finance.com, accessed: November 12, 2012
- ↑ Slimane becomes YSL designer - The man for whom Karl Lagerfeld accepted , stern.de, March 7, 2012
- ↑ The hits in November - Unisex , spiegel.de, October 29, 2001
- ↑ Designer Hedi Slimane - Waiting for God , spiegel.de, June 30, 2007
- ↑ The designer who fell from the sky , zeit.de, April 12, 2007
- ↑ My first time Max is at a fashion show , spiegel.de, March 29, 2006
- ^ Dress disorder - Berlin boys by Hedi Slimane , zeit.de, April 24, 2003
- ↑ Dior designer Slimane must abdicate , welt.de, March 30, 2007
- ↑ Kris Van Assche - Dior, further thought ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , faz.net, July 3, 2007
- ↑ Dior Homme pour Femme ( Memento of the original dated February 12, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , lesmads.de, December 3, 2009
- ↑ Dior Homme occupies extended Haussmann building by Antonio Virga Architecte dezeen.com, May 26, 2015
- ↑ Kris Van Assche leaves Dior spiegel.de, March 19, 2018
- ↑ Kim Jones shows Dior Men in Tokyo - in pictures thenational.ae, December 3, 2018
- ↑ Christian Dior wants to be taken over spiegel.de, May 23, 2017
- ↑ Slimean, Hédi , faz.net, accessed: November 12, 2012
