Gosha Rubchinsky

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Georgi Alexandrovich Rubtschinski ( Russian Георгий Александрович Рубчинский , * 29. June 1984 in Moscow , Russian SFSR , Soviet Union ), known as Gosha Rubtschinski (Russian: Гоша Рубчинский, English transcription: Gosha Rubchinskiy), is a Russian fashion designer , photographer and founder of the for streetwear fashion label ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ named for him . Rubchinski's designs are inspired by the time shortly after the dissolution of the Soviet Union and by Russian youth culture , which is why his label internationally stands for a post-Soviet aesthetic.

Life

Rubchinsky grew up in a large housing estate in northern Moscow. Influenced by Russian magazines such as Om and Ptyuch , which he bought from 1995, Rubchinsky dealt with fashion and photography for the first time. He enrolled at the Moscow College of Technology and Design to become a hairdresser and make-up artist . During his training, he began to take photos of his projects and then worked as a costume designer for Russian film productions and as a stylist for Russian magazines and fashion shows. From 2006 Rubchinsky came into contact with a newly emerging Moscow party scene, which celebrated less luxurious parties with a more mixed audience than usual in the early 2000s. There he made contacts with young skateboarders , who from then on became recurring motifs in his photography and inspired him to design his first fashion collection.

Fashion design

Fashion label of the same name ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ

In 2008 Rubchinsky showed his first collection of men's fashion for spring and summer 2009 under the title The Evil Empire - an allusion to the name Ronald Reagan coined for the Soviet Union - “ Empire of Evil ” - in front of 700 spectators in Moscow's Sokolniki Sports Palace Friends from the skateboard scene and young men he noticed on the street used as models. His second collection Growing and Expanding (German: growing and expanding) for autumn and winter 2009 he showed as part of Cycles & Seasons , an alternative fashion week in Moscow, in an old Orthodox church that had been converted into a children's sports hall, in front of a small number of guests, including journalists and editors of the fashion press. The third collection of the label named after him, The sunrise is not far behind the mountains (German: The sunrise is not far behind the mountains) was not presented with an ordinary fashion show , but with a 22-minute video, a photo book, shot in Saint Petersburg and a performance in which twelve young men wore the garments from the collection while training for an hour in an old school gym. Rubtschinski was invited to London Fashion Week and was able to show his fourth collection Slave / РАБ ' (German: Sklave ) as part of the Fashion East Menswear Installations .

Due to the poor production conditions in Russia and the high export fees, Rubchinsky was unable to sell his fashion internationally despite positive reviews in the fashion press. Frustrated, he stopped designing entire collections for the time being and instead concentrated on photography. Eventually, however, while working on the Transfiguration photo book, he was introduced to Adrian Joffe, CEO of the Japanese clothing company Comme des Garçons , who enabled him to sell a collection at Dover Street Market . Rubchinski, who had spent his private fortune to have the collection produced in Serbia, found himself in financial distress until Joffe offered him to take over the business aspects of the fashion brand. Comme des Garçons has been responsible for the production, sales and marketing of Rubtschinski's collections since 2012 . The sales figures have grown steadily since then.

Milestones in the development of the label were the fashion shows taking place outside Russia for the first time as well as the collaborations with well-known brands. As part of his spring and summer 2014 collection, Rubtschinski presented his design for the old- skool model from the Vans shoe brand . It was followed by other collaborations with the footwear brand, in the Rubtschinski including the Sk8-Hi - sneakers and model Authentic redesigned. In June 2014 Rubchinsky showed his designs for spring and summer 2015 for the first time outside of Russia, namely at Paris Fashion Week , where he continued to present his collections. At the presentation of the 2016 collections, Rubchinski made the models wear sneakers, among other things, which he designed as part of a collaboration for the sporting goods manufacturer Reebok . Rubtschinski showed the spring / summer 2017 collection in June 2016 at Pitti Immagine Uomo , the men's fashion fair in Florence, in the courtyard of an abandoned tobacco factory, where he also had the accompanying 17-minute presentation film shot. He presented his interpretation of a pair of jeans and a denim jacket from the American brand Levi's and pieces from his collaboration with the sports brand Fila and four other Italian fashion brands. For his so-called Russian Trilogy , Rubchinkiy returned with his brand in 2017 for the first time to his home country to present designs: In Kaliningrad , a once German city, in January 2017, ahead of the 2018 World Cup in Russia, he surprisingly made his collaboration with the football team - Sub-brand of the German company Adidas publik, which is inspired, among other things, by the Adidas uniforms of the Soviet team from 1980 and, unlike the previous collection, is more reminiscent of football than skate outfits. At the following fashion show in Saint Petersburg, which was inspired by the rave culture of the 1990s, Rubchinski showed for the first time eight designs in the typical checked pattern in June 2017 , which he designed with Christopher Bailey as part of his collaboration with the traditional British label Burberry . The last fashion show of the Russian Trilogy took place in January 2018 at the Boris Yeltsin Presidential Center in Yekaterinburg , with garments for autumn and winter 2018 from the collaborations with Adidas, Burberry, Levi's and Dr. Martens were shown in front of a large-scale work of art by the Russian painter Erik Bulatow with the words "свобода" (German: freedom) before the models sang the old Russian rock song Goodbye America .

On April 4, 2018, Rubchinsky announced on Instagram that there would be no further seasonal collections by his label ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ in the future. He justified this with his waning interest in the brand and his plan to instead concentrate on projects in the art world and designs for his skater label РАССВЕТ, which he founded in 2016 .

Fashion label РАССВЕТ

The Russian word "Рассвет" (in capital letters РАССВЕТ, pronounced: Rassvet), which means something like "sunrise" or "twilight" and can be understood as a metaphor for the dawn of better times, was already on many items of clothing from Rubchinky's main label ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ imprinted. In 2016 Rubchinsky and his long-time friend, the Russian skateboarder Tolita Titaev, decided to set up an independent label under the name. РАССВЕТ is conceived as a Russian skateboard brand and is also managed by Comme des Garçons .

The first collection, available from September 2016, included skateboards, t-shirts , hoodies and baseball caps . The second collection was presented in June 2017 with a short documentary showing how a Russian skater crew equipped by РАССВЕТ goes on a trip to California and meets American skaters there. In January 2018, a twelve-piece collaboration with the US American brand Carhartt WIP was announced, which became known in the 1980s and 1990s for its wide-cut skater fashion. In June 2019 Rubchinsky brought out a collection of three t-shirts and six skateboards as part of a collaboration with the Moscow Pushkin Museum ; In keeping with a simultaneous exhibition in the museum, paintings by the artist Paul Gauguin were used for the designs.

The latest fashion label GR-Uniforma

After the end of seasonal collections from ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ became known, Rubchinsky began work on his new project, the GR Uniforma label, in June 2018. With his new label, Rubtschinski aims to concentrate on “uniforms, community, architectural order and people from your world” (“ uniform, about community, architecture order, about people from your world ”); a uniform can help one not to feel alone, even when the community around one is made up of outsiders. The first collection called GRUPPA (German: Band) was available in selected stores from March 16, 2019. In keeping with the name of the collection, Rubtschinki formed a band with two former collective contractors and two male models, with the models taking over the vocals and appearing in the music video for the first song YA I TY (German: Ich und Du). The first ten-song album by the formation IZ SKAZKI (German: From the fairy tale) was released in April 2019. In February 2019 it was announced that the first collaborator would be the DIESEL Red Tag label ; the collection, which comprises a few pieces, will be presented with an artistic performance at the Venice Biennale in May.

Photography and films

In 2010 Rubtschinski published a fanzine entitled Aglec , which was commissioned by the editor-in-chief of the culture magazine 032c Joerg Koch and of which only 300 copies were published. The pictures that appeared in it were shown in an exhibition of the same name in Berlin.

In the summer of 2011 Rubtschinski started the Transfiguration project in a gallery with an adjacent photo workshop and skate park on the New Holland Island in Saint Petersburg, which was opened to the public for the first time in 300 years. The aim of the project is to revive the cultural life on the island by hosting exhibitions, live shows and skate competitions. In 2012 Rubtschinski published the Transfiguration Book , a photo book with the publisher Junsuke Yamasaki and the artistic director Pavel Milkyakov, which gathers landscape images and portraits of those involved in the project. At the same time he made the Transfiguration film, which was released two years later. In it, Rubchinsky shows photos of young Russian men whom Rubchinski met in the skate park in New Holland and asked about their dreams, goals and the differences between Russians and Ukrainians . The recordings are accompanied by songs by Igor Stravinsky and tATu, among others .

In August 2014 Rubtschinski published the 80-page photo zine Crimea / Kids (German: Krim / Kinder) in a version of only 300 copies by IDEA Books. The photographs show young people from Crimea skating, smoking and hanging out together .

In October 2015 Rubchinky's photo book Youth Hotel, limited to 500 copies, was published by IDEA Books. The title of the book is based on a Moscow hotel that housed the youth teams during the 1980 Olympic Games; According to Rubchinski, the theme is the “culture of youth”, which is like a hotel in which you spend a short time, but which you ultimately have to leave. The book presented a "new generation full of hope, the future of Russia".

As part of his presentation at the Florence-based Pitti Immagine Uomo , Rubtschinski published a photo book in the IDEA Books publishing house and a short film in the summer of 2016 , both of which are titled The Day of My Death . The silent film , like the photographs, is kept entirely in black and white , which is reminiscent of classic Italian films as well as the aesthetics of Italian fascism , and shows a fatally ending love triangle , partly inspired by the mysterious death of the Italian filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini , the the film is also dedicated. The film was shot in the old tobacco factory, in whose courtyard the fashion show took place. Two of Rubchinski's models, skaters, play leading roles; Rubchinsky himself also has a cameo .

In autumn 2016 Rubchinski launched a perfume named after him, whose fragrance, according to Rubchinski, is inspired by summer and vacation memories. For the market launch, Rubtschinski published the Perfume Book , another photo book, in a version of 1000 copies, for which he photographed his muses in summery Spain .

As a photographer, Rubtschinski has also worked on the campaigns of other fashion labels, such as the 2016 campaign for the British men's outfitter Topman 's Christmas collection .

Style and influence

Determining elements of Rubtschinskis post-Soviet aesthetics are large ( oversized ) cuts, denim and camouflage prints , Sports clothes and gym shorts with logos of Western brands, high-seated pants, sneakers , turtleneck , football scarves , T-shirt flags - or hammer-and- Sickle imprints or Cyrillic script . Rubchinski's clearest influence on Western fashion is that large chain stores such as Topman and Urban Outfitters have now also sold shirts with Cyrillic prints in their stores.

An integral part of Rubtschinski's fashion shows and presentations are the very young-looking, predominantly Russian, predominantly white male models that Rubtschinski cast in cooperation with the Lumpen (German: outsider) model agency throughout Russia and mostly with short-shaved hair, mullets or others in the 1980s In Russia and 1990s popular hairstyles or hairstyles reminiscent of the Gopnik subculture are sent to the catwalk, whereby a perfect body and a face that is generally regarded as attractive are not a prerequisite, but rather an extraordinary appearance is preferred. During his presentation of the collaboration with Adidas, Rubtschinski had the Adidas logo shaved into a model's hair, which caused a sensation.

Rubchinsky is regarded as a pioneer for many young Russian fashion designers and brands such as Cyrille Gassiline, Sputnik 1985, Outlaw Moscow and Tigran Avetisyan, who are increasingly making their clothes accessible to an international audience via the Internet or at fashion shows abroad. The fact that Rubchinski's fashion became popular in the West as a piece of the rough East also has an impact on the fashion scene in other countries of the former Eastern Bloc : The label Vetements , founded by Georgian- German brothers in 2014, is as successful as Rubchinsky ; the Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia , who designs for Vetements, was also appointed to the French luxury label Balenciaga ; by the Balkan culture and the sportswear that is popular there and in Russia, for example the Hvala Ilija brand , is seen as being on the rise; Ukrainian fashion by designer Anton Belinsky has already been shown in Paris, but differs significantly from Rubchinski's designs in that it eschews Soviet nostalgia .

The now popular Russian rapper Face dedicated a song named after the designer to Rubtschinski in 2016, and for the first time attracted more attention.

proof

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  46. ↑ "PACCBET" The Movie Proves That Love Wins Over Hate. Retrieved February 27, 2019 .
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personal data
SURNAME Rubchinsky, Gosha
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Rubchinsky, Georgi Alexandrovich
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Russian fashion designer, photographer and founder of the streetwear label named after him ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ
DATE OF BIRTH June 29, 1984
PLACE OF BIRTH Moscow , Russian SFSR , Soviet Union