Climbing area Palatinate Forest

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Honeycomb-shaped weathering is typical for the red sandstone of the southern Palatinate.
At the summit, protruding plates often block the exit.
Hourglass, a typical form of weathering in red sandstone, enables good security when climbing

The climbing area Palatinate Forest is an important climbing area in the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate . It extends over large parts of the southern Palatinate Forest , in particular over the districts of Südliche Weinstrasse and Südwestpfalz . Many of the rock formations are in the Dahner Felsenland . To the south is the northern Vosges climbing area .

The rocks suitable for sport climbing consist of a type of sandstone , which geologically belongs to the lithostratigraphic group of red sandstone . The entire area has around 80 free-standing red sandstone towers and more than 140 so-called massifs . In spring and early summer, numerous rocks are closed to protect breeding peregrine falcons .

overview

Many rocks are provided with abseiling rings and summit books by the Palatinate Climbers Association . Simple routes - up to the fifth level of difficulty - are often not equipped at all or only with a few intermediate safeguards. The sandstone in the area, unlike limestone, has little grip and is round, so that you often have to climb "on friction". Sandstone slabs often protrude into the climbing guide just below the summit . Special forms of weathering occur in the rocks, e.g. B. honeycomb walls that require a special climbing technique. The difficulties range from I. to XI. Degree on the UIAA scale.

Climbing areas

The climbing area Palatinate Forest is divided as follows:

Annweiler area

The Annweiler area comprises the areas north and south of Annweiler . Eusserthal , Dernbach and Graefenhausen (Palatinate) belong to the northern area, and Bindersbach , Waldrohrbach and Waldhambach belong to the southern part .

  • Asselstein with numerous routes, e.g. B. Normalweg (IV-), west face (V-), Rolfkamin (V +) and east face (V) (south face closed until the end of June 2013!)
  • Hundsfels , the normal route (so-called Byzantinerweg) is rated III- and with its "crawl band" and rock climbs is one of the varied routes in the Palatinate. Another route is the "Old South Face" with difficulty IV +.
  • On the Trifels (with castle) there are, among other things, the climbs "Zigzag-Weg" (VI) and Mittlere Westwand (VII +).

  • Asselstein - the narrow east wall

  • Trifels and part of the castle rock

Rinnthal and Wilgartswiesen area

The Rinnthal and Wilgartswiesen area extends to the left and right of the B 10 in the Wilgartswiesen - Rinnthal - Sarnstall area and includes a large number of slopes .

  • The Buchholzfelsen has the routes "Alter Dachweg" (VII +) and "Tuxedomoon", a difficult roof climb .
  • Three rocks with the “falcon divorce” (VI) and the “ruler” (VII-), both at the central summit.
  • There are also the Schmalbühler Felsen with the “Dingentalturm” and the “Wilgartisplatte” in the area.

Luger area

The Luger area extends south of an imaginary line between Wilgartswiesen and Sarnstall . The places Spirkelbach , Wernersberg , Lug , Schwanheim , Dimbach , Völkersweiler , Gossersweiler and Stein belong to it .

  • Luger Friedrich with the “Talkante” (VI +) and the “Direct South Face” (VII-).
  • Luger Geiersteine , here at the "Geierturm" the normal route (III +) and "Gabis Weg" (VII +), on the massif the "long normal route" (I), the "Luger-Tor-Weg" (VII-) and "Mäandra" ( VIII).
  • In addition, the Steiner Nadel (also called “Käshafen”) and the “Dimbergpfeiler” are noteworthy climbing destinations.

  • Luger Geierstein

  • Luger Friedrich (Pfeilerweg, VI)

Hauenstein area

The Hauenstein area extends mainly south of the town of Hauenstein , some rocks are also to the east in the direction of Spirkelbach .

  • Spirkelbacher Rauhfels with the "Hans-Wenger-Gedächtnisweg" (VI +) and the "Blockverschnealtung" (IX-)
  • Brick stone with the "Great South Junction" (V +) and the "Red Wall" (VII +)
  • Burghalder with the "pillar wall" (VI +) and "large intersection" (V +)
  • Stephanstürme , at the "Kleiner Stephansturm" there is the "Normalweg" (II)

Vorderweidenthaler area

The Vorderweidenthaler area extends essentially northeast and east of Vorderweidenthal . The rocks southwest of Darstein are also included in it.

  • Rödelstein with its winding “Normalweg” (II) and the “Decemberweg” VII, “Oliverweg” (VI +) and the “Kochplatte” (IX-) routes.
  • Lauterschwaner Rappenfels with climbing tours in area IV - VI

Busenberg area

The rocks that are located between the towns of Schindhard and Busenberg and the rocks to the east of it are counted as part of the Busenberg area .

  • Schulerturm , it is in front of the ruins of the Drachenfels castle , where the "Werner-Mildenberg-Gedächtnisweg" (VI +) is located.
  • Heidenpfeiler with the routes "Himmelsleiter" (VI +) and "Topspin" (VIII-)

Bärenbrunn valley

The area includes the rocks of the Bärenbrunner valley and those north of the village of Schindhard .

  • Monastery rock with the "nun crack" (VI-) and the "flaming heart" (VIII-)
  • Nonnenfels with "Alter Route" (IV), the "Jubiläumsriss" (VII-) and "Nothing new in the west" (IX-)
  • Honigfelsen , in addition to the normal route (VI-), there is also the "Flight of the Albatros" (VII +) and the "Palatinate hourglass drama" (IX-).
  • Star rocks with "Old South Face (Theoweg)" (IV +) and "North Face traverse" (III +)
  • Corral rock with the "Great South Junction " (VI-) and the "Third Ramp" (IV +)

  • Honigfels with climber (left edge)

  • Penstock tower south face with climbers

Erfweiler area

The Erfweiler area is essentially northeast and southeast of the small town of Erfweiler , which is a few kilometers east of Dahn in a quiet side valley. Particularly noteworthy is the so-called Glastal, on the slopes of which there are numerous climbing rocks:

  • Glass rocks in the Glastal with the Ney and Schlemmerturm ; Ney tower with "north wall crossing" (IV-)
  • Heegerturm (originally "Stumpelsen") with "classic" normal route (II) and "southeast wall crack" (IV +)
  • Kumbtfels with the "Kumbtverschnealtung" (IV-)
  • Rappenwand with the "Emil-Gessner-Gedächtnisweg" (V +), a 25 meter long crack-chimney climb in the valley wall
  • Sheep rocks with the so-called "Schandarie", a bizarre rock turrets, that is because of the danger of collapse for climbers but banned

  • Ney Tower (right) and Schlemmerturm (middle) in the Glastal

  • In the key point of the Kumbtverscheendung (1)

  • Key point of the Kumbt intersection (2)

  • Rappenwand

Dahn area

The mountains and side valleys around the small town of Dahn have the greatest density of rock in the southern Palatinate climbing area. Numerous rocks are accessible through climbing systems and signposted paths.

  • Büttelfels with the "Little South Face " (V-)
  • Bride and groom at the Dahn Youth Hostel, two towers with a chimney between them, the "Great Chimney" route (III)
  • Hochstein , with the "Hochsteinnadel", normal route (III) and the "PK edge" (V) upstream of the Hochstein massif to the west. On the Hochstein massif there is the “thorn crack” (V), the “hardness 7” (VIII), the “gray wall” (IV +) and others.
  • Jungfernsprung , it rises almost 60 meters high directly between the Dahn houses and is Dahn's landmark. The massif is accessible for hikers from the mountain side. The "Franz-Seiler-Gedächtnisweg" (VII +) leads through the vertical valley wall.
  • The Lämmerfelsen is a rock wall that is divided by towers. The “Bockturm” can be climbed via the “Normalweg” (II) and the “Bockverschneiderung” (VI-). Further to the west is the "Theoturm" with its "Normalweg" (V) and the "Himmelsleiter" with the west ridge (II).

  • Hochsteinnadel from the north

  • Maiden jump

  • South side of the Hochstein massif

  • West rise of the sky ladder

  • East wall of the Ludwigshafen tower (thirsty rock near Dahn)

  • Lämmerfelsen - south walls from the Landau Tower

  • Lämmerfelsen - north walls from the Dahn exit

Bruchweiler, Bundenthal and Rumbach areas

Three of the climbing rocks can be found in the Rumbach district . In Rumbach, above the church, are the Birkelfelsen, direction Schönau , from Rumbach from are the Castle Rock to achieve. Straight ahead along the country road towards Schönau, shortly before the exit towards Fischbach, you will find the aristocratic needle on the left .

Hinterweidenthal-Lemberg area

This area is essentially south of the B 10 between Pirmasens in the west and Hinterweidenthal in the east. About 20 rocks can be climbed, which with one exception are of minor importance. Only the 14 m high Hinterweidenthaler (also Kaltenbacher) Teufelstisch deserves special mention . As one of the Palatinate landmarks, it was depicted three times on Rhineland-Palatinate postage stamps during the time of the French occupation after the Second World War, in 2014 on a Deutsche Post stamp:

  • 16 Pf. Postage stamp (1947)

  • 4 Pf. Postage stamp (1948)

  • 16 Pf. Postage stamp (1948)

  • Devil's table in winter

literature

  • Heinz Illner, Uwe Schumacher: High up in the Palatinate Wasgau - climbing in the southern Palatinate Forest . 1993, ISBN 3-9801574-6-6 .
  • Gerhard Leukroth (Ed.): Climbing Guide South Palatinate . Verlag Richter, Pirmasens 1975.
  • Gerhard Leukroth, Udo Daigger, Hans Laub, Walter Stürmer (eds.): Climbing Guide Südpfalz . Self-published by Gerhard Leukroth, Lemberg (Pfalz) 1978.
  • Udo Daigger, Hans-Jürgen Cron: Climbing Guide Südpfalz - Climbing in the red sandstone . 4th updated edition. 2005.
  • Jens Richter, Sabine Tittel: Climbing Guide Pfalz - Climbing in the red sandstone of the Palatinate rock country . Panico Alpinverlag, 2007, ISBN 3-936740-41-0 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Alsace climbing area.
  2. ↑ Climbing rock blacklist.
  3. ↑ Udo Daigger, Hans-Jürgen Cron: Südpfalz - climbing in the red sandstone . 4th updated edition. Self-published, 2005.