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The Mülln district in Salzburg

Mülln is a small district of the Austrian city of Salzburg . It is located to the left of the Salzach, north of the historic center . Mülln borders on Lehen to the west, Riedenburg to the south and Maxglan to the south-west . The northern border is formed by the railway line towards Munich , Aiglhofstrasse delimits the district towards Maxglan. The border to the Riedenburg district is Reichenhallerstraße. The old suburb of Mülln (Inneres Mülln) is part of the world cultural heritage of the city of Salzburg. A good 1,000 residents live in the small district.

history

Mülln is probably the oldest suburb of the medieval fortified city of Salzburg and emerged from a mill village. The district is first mentioned in 790 as “ad molendina”, “near the mills”. These mills were first fed with the overwater of the Riedenburger Moor and the adjacent Wildmoos (today Leopoldskron Moor ) and later by an arm of the Almkanal . The area and the settlement core at the northern foot of the Mönchsberg have been called Mülln since the 12th century at the latest .

The oldest officially mentioned mills of Mülln are

  • the mill of St. Peter's monastery in the 12th century
  • the mill of Nonnberg Abbey (Salzachmühle)
  • the mill of the cathedral chapter (the later Heilmayr mill)
  • the prince-archbishop's mill (Bärengässchen 4)
  • the Wartelstein mill (later called Glaninger mill) from 1330

Today almost all mills in the Mülln area have disappeared, the Stift and Salzachmühle used to belong to the Sisters of Mercy and is now owned by the St. Peter Abbey , located in the Aiglhof. Mülln once owned five city gates, some of which already existed before 1480, the time of the second city fortifications of the city of Salzburg:

  • the Laufener Tor (Lieferinger Tor)
  • the Grimmingtor
  • the Wartelsteintor
  • two watering gates towards the Salzach (in Bärengässchen and Salzachgässchen)

The parish church

Mülln from Müllner Steg from

The Augustinian Church “to Our Lady of Mülln” has been a parish of the Benedictine Abbey of Michaelbeuern since 1835 . A first chapel in Mülln was first mentioned in 1148. Archbishop Gebhard had the dilapidated altar of the Marien-Kapelle renewed. As probably the oldest Salzburg suburb, Mülln was soon secured militarily as a fortification of the city and provided with walls and defensive towers. The church, at that time probably located on Müllner Hauptstrasse, was also included. A Romanesque crucifix has been preserved from this period.

Archbishop Johann II von Reisberg began for a church community that had now grown significantly in 1439 with the construction of the new church in the form of a Gothic hall church, the basic substance of which has been preserved to this day. This church became a parish church shortly after 1460, but later it fell into disrepair. Archbishop Wolf Dietrich renewed the church, rebuilt it and handed it over to the Augustinian hermits as a new monastery church. In 1674 the church got its baroque onion helmet and a street-side porch, behind which the spacious staircase with its paintings and its Trinity chapel is hidden. The tower and vestibule were built by master builder Sebastian Stumpfegger , who also worked as an employee of Fischer von Erlach . In 1833 the church was handed over to the Benedictines in Michaelbeuern. Well known in the church is the high altar with its Madonna and Child Jesus (made around 1460).

The old monastery

Next to the parish church of Mülln is the former monastery of the Augustinian hermits, who worked here from 1605 to 1818. Before that, after 1465, there was a collegiate monastery of the Augustinian Canons at this point, but it was orphaned before 1605. The monastery building consists of various buildings that were mainly designed in the early 17th century, but some of which date from the 15th century.

The Augustinians founded their brewery in Mülln here in 1621 . The former monastery building has been used as a brewery inn since 1890. The hall fixtures were built in 1907, 1913/14 and 1927. Today’s Augustinerbrauerei with the adjacent Müllner Bräustübl is Austria’s largest beer restaurant with three wood-paneled halls, snack stands, a large bar and a beer garden under chestnut trees.

Mülln and its parts

Inner Mülln (the old suburb)

The historic center of Mülln is located on the northernmost foothills of the Mönchsberg under the dominating landscape of the Mülln parish church with its pretty cemetery chapel and forms the northern cornerstone of the medieval development of Salzburg's old town. The core of Mülln was largely unprotected in the Middle Ages, it was not until 1600 that low defensive walls were built there for military security.

Leprosenhaus (state nursing home)

State nursing home

The state nursing home with its leprosy house church and former leprosy house Sundersiechenhaus was first mentioned in the 13th century. The existing four-storey building dates from the 18th century and has an almost square floor plan. The Leprosenhauskirche is a rather simple hall building, which is consecrated to Saint Jerome and Antonius hermit. The altarpiece is a copy of the miraculous image of Maria Dorfen .

Mother House of the Sisters of Mercy

It was built in 1862/63, the associated church in 1885. The figure of St. Michael (created before 1720) placed in the garden of the mother house once adorned the Michaelsbrunnen at Michaelplatz, today's Mozartplatz. The statue of St. Nepomuk was created by Josef Anton Pfaffinger and originally stood on the portal of the city bridge on the old town side (today the State Bridge).

Müllner Hauptstrasse

Müllner Hauptstrasse

The Müllner Hauptstrasse has largely retained its medieval suburban character. The fork to Bärengässchen with the local Bärenwirt inn, which essentially dates from the 15th - 16th centuries, is remarkable. The Krimpelstätter inn (No. 31) is also known as the “White Swan Inn” and is essentially a medieval building. Houses 11 and 13 are 17th century handicraft houses. No. 14 and No. 17 each have a late Gothic portal.

Mills

At Bärengässchen and Salzachgässchen, some former mills have been preserved in their current core from the 16th to 18th centuries.

Dolphin fountain

The dolphin fountain in front of the house at Müllner Hauptstraße 26 was created in 1727 by Sebastian Stumpfegger . The octagonal fountain basin has recessed fields and carved rosettes with a spiral grid. The fountain figures show two dolphins around a rock and a putto.

The Klaus barracks

Prince Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun built a military hospital here in 1695–1697. While the Hohe Salzburger Landschaft was taking care of the property, medical care and food were provided from the soldiers' wages. During the Napoleonic wars, in 1809, in addition to the Klaus hospital, the Theatine monastery was also used as a troop hospital in view of the many wounded. In 1813 the Klausenspital was converted into a barracks. The building in front of the Klausentor has not been used as a barracks since the First World War . Nevertheless, it is still widely known by this name to this day.

The Müllner Schanze

Next to the Mülln district, on the northern slope of the Mönchsberg, there is the Müllner Schanze, a three-tier defense structure with two strong defensive towers (Monikapforte and Augustinerpforte). The structure was built under Archbishop Paris Lodron during the Thirty Years War . It is the last preserved city gate of Salzburg from this war period and unique in its layout north of the Alps. A restoration of this valuable facility is currently being considered. (See also fortifications of the city of Salzburg .)

The Müllner Schifferkreuz

Schifferkreuz

Already at the beginning of the 18th century and probably earlier there was a crucifix on the banks of the Salzach in Mülln, which was venerated here as miraculous. This cross had to be removed in 1801, having become rotten. Then a double cross was erected, clearly visible from the Salzach for boatmen and clearly visible from the road into the city. This river cross was donated by the then owner to the parish of Mülln around 1900.

The former bath in Mülln

In 1820 the carpenter Josef Stock built a wooden bathhouse just north of the staircase from Franz-Josef-Kai to Müllner Hauptstraße. From 1823 simple Salzach baths were offered here, which were considered very health-promoting because of their mineral fine particles from the mountains. Brine baths followed here as early as 1824, with Stock sourcing the brine from the Hallein brewery. It has also been possible to take mud baths here since 1830. In 1908 the bathing establishment was taken over by the Wüstrich family, the wooden bathhouse was torn down and a long, brick-built new bathhouse was built. Bathing ended in 1944, and the bathhouse was badly damaged by a bomb.

The former crossing

In order to save tedious detours, Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria , who resided in Mirabell Palace and often drove to Kleßheim Palace , had the overpass, a boat ferry across the Salzach, built in Mülln. It was reserved for the Crown Prince and his entourage. After 1820 this ferry was reopened and now served the public. The ferry then ran between five o'clock and the evening bell every day from April until late autumn. It was later in operation until the Kreuzersteg opened at the Müllnersteg . (Kreuzersteg because a toll in the amount of a cruiser was levied for its use . A cruiser was one hundredth of a guilder.)

The Almkanal

The Müllner Arm of the Alm Canal, an artificially created canal system that is fed by various streams and rivers, flows through Mülln . Hydroelectric power plants were or are still operated by this. In the past, there were only mills that gave it its name in Mülln. The last large mill was the Heilmayer mill and bread factory.

Today, plants are only operated to generate electrical energy. The latest is a water screw that was built by the Augustiner Brewery Mülln. The canal runs underground from the Krimpelstätter inn to the Salzach and flows into it about a hundred meters above the railway bridge or the Mülln-Altstadt S-Bahn station.

External garbage

Tower clock of the primary school in Mülln

This settlement area is outside the historic town center and next to the surgery west of the state hospitals and Aiglhofstrasse and Augustinergasse.

The Müllner elementary school

The origins of the Mülln School can be traced back to the early modern period and can be found in the former monastery school in Mülln, next to which a city school was soon to develop. In any case, Markus Sittikus issued school regulations as early as 1613, in which Mülln is also mentioned under the "confirmed German schools". In these schools, in addition to the trivium (reading, arithmetic, writing), religious content was taught. In 1632 the prior von Mülln had to be warned to repeat the children's apprenticeship, which had not been held for eleven years during the troubled times of the Thirty Years' War , every Sunday from now on. In addition to the school in Mülln, there was also a soldiers' school in the Johannisschlössl on Mönchsberg in this suburban area . In 1812 the Mülln school was divided into two classes and in 1871 three classes. In 1871 physical education was also introduced. The current school building was inaugurated in 1897. It was built according to plans by the City of Salzburg (architect Franz Drobny ).

The Aiglhof

The Aiglhof

The old farm appears for the first time in the 14th century, when the Lords of Kuchl sold the fief together with the surrounding land to Paul Köllerer (Köllrer) in 1377. For his part, Köllerer donated the court to his daughter on the occasion of her marriage to Georg Aigl, who came from an old Salzburg patrician family. In 1511 Pachaimer, the then court chancellor, acquired the farm, which was then badly damaged in the course of the peasant wars in 1525. In 1588 the well-known Thenn family bought the farm, and in 1592 Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau bought it . In 1596 the mint master, Christoph Geizkofler, took over the property, followed by the cathedral provost Michael von Wolkenstein in 1600. Since 1604 the farm has been owned by the St. Peter monastery until today . 1796–1799, Abbot Dominikus von Hagenauer had the Aiglhof renewed and expanded. He also had the castle chapel there built with the altar sheet by Martin Johann Schmidt (Kremser Schmidt), which depicts Christ's encounter with the unbelieving Thomas.

In the 19th century the Aiglhof was declared a monastery laundry. In 1921 the plot of land at the Aiglhof began to be parceled out and sold to the city of Salzburg. In 1940, the DAF created the Neue Heimat (Aiglhofsiedlung) on the site . In 1954, a nursery was set up here, which is housed on the grounds of the castle grounds belonging to the St. Peter Abbey.

The St. Johann hospital district

At the end of the Müllner Hauptstrasse, which is out of town, is the Salzburg State Hospital , a hospital that provides most of the medical care in the city of Salzburg and its surrounding area. The name St. Johanns-Spital , which was official until 1938, is also used in the vernacular for the LKH (regional hospital) .

Around 1900 the home for the blind was here and the state brewing facility adjacent. There was also a cemetery here. Today the Salzburg State Hospitals accommodate a large number of departments in a constantly growing number of buildings on an area of ​​many hectares, in which there is also space for park-like green areas with walking paths. In the courtyard of the administration building of the state hospitals (diagonally behind the hospital church), an underground, five-meter-deep and elaborately designed well system with a conglomerate staircase to a low-lying water basin was excavated during excavation work in the 19th century , which dates from around 1280.

Today, the state hospital and the Christian Doppler Clinic are part of the Salzburg University Clinics . The buildings from the 19th century are under monument protection .

The parish church of St. John

The original Johannesspital (copper engraving, approx. 1735)

The original baroque hospital complex with the Church of St. Johannes, today the parish church of the Spital-Pfarrsprengels, was built by Fischer von Erlach on the foundations of the older Grimming Castle on behalf of Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun , to whom social work was a particular concern Inaugurated in 1704. Johann Ernst von Thun revived an old name with the new hospital name, as the old hospital of the Erhard Church was already called after Saint John the Baptist. The altar leaves of the church were made by Johann Michael Rottmayr himself or according to his designs. On both sides of the church are the old, symmetrically arranged, original hospital wings, with one side being reserved for men and the other for women. The hospital church has been its own parish church since 1891.

The hospital cemetery

The hospital cemetery of St. Johannes had a part for male deceased and a separate part for female. The men's part was opened in 1695, the women's part in 1703. Presumably in 1818 the separation of the two parts was lifted. The cemetery was intended for the deceased patients and carers. Later the deceased children from the nearby orphanage joined them, but also occasionally other citizens from Mülln or the Riedenburg. The cemetery was abandoned around 1895. A total of over 16,000 burials were carried out here.

traffic

In the course of the realization of the S-Bahn Salzburg , the S-Bahn station Salzburg Mülln-Altstadt was built, from which there are direct connections to the main train station and to Germany ( Freilassing - Berchtesgaden ). In addition, Mülln can be reached with the trolleybus lines 4, 7, 8 and 9 as well as the bus lines 22, 27 and 28.

With regard to individual traffic, the busy Müllner Hauptstraße is the only street with motor vehicle traffic in the Inner Mülln, with one exception. It is a thoroughfare from the center towards Lehen and Äusses Mülln. For cyclists there is a path along the Salzach.

Individual evidence

  1. Landespflegeanstalt Salzburg-Mülln  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.salzburg.gv.at  
  2. ^ Dehio Salzburg 1986 , Salzburg-Mülln, Leprosenhauskirche and former Leprosenhaus, page 644 f.

literature

  • Adolf Hahnl, Hans L. Ostermann, Harald Waitzbauer : 375 years of Augustiner Bräu at the Mülln Monastery in Salzburg. Salzburg 1996.
  • Adolf Hahnl: The country seats of the abbots of St. Peter . In: Office of the Salzburg State Government - Culture Department (Ed.): The oldest monastery in the German-speaking area. St. Peter in Salzburg. 3rd State Exhibition, May 15 - October 26, 1982. Treasures of European Culture (pp. 54–58). Salzburg: 1982.

Web links

Commons : Mülln (Salzburg)  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Coordinates: 47 ° 48 '  N , 13 ° 2'  E