Skinning in Düsseldorf

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Joint fashion show of the Düsseldorf furriers with the participation of 19 companies in the Hilton Hotel (1971)

From the beginning of the 20th century, furring in Düsseldorf had a special level and livelihood in the affluent environment of today's capital of North Rhine-Westphalia , known as the “ desk of the Ruhr area ”, until the end of the 20th century. Almost all furrier businesses manufactured and sold furs and any by-products to end customers, unlike, for example, in the clothing centers in Berlin, Frankfurt am Main and, before the Second World War, also in Leipzig, where many contract furriers and so-called intermediate masters worked for the intermediate and retail trade. Philipp Manes , the historian of the German fur industry who was murdered by the National Socialists, was the first to name the two cities on the Rhine in his list of the cities with the most exclusive fur shops before 1942: "Cologne - Düsseldorf - Frankfurt - Munich - Dresden have shops that are in size and Presentation to overshadow Berlin ”.

In the period after the Second World War, a particular heyday of fur fashion, there were 66 furriers in the city, which then had almost 500,000 inhabitants, according to a 1957 specialist address book, almost all of which were connected to a shop. The city with the Igedo as a large national and international trade fair center for fashion quickly developed into a focus of fashionable work in the furrier trade, after many furrier businesses from the area of ​​the former fur center of Leipzig Brühl joined the local specialist companies after the war .

Düsseldorf, with its exclusive Königsallee shopping street, is still today a fashion city with a penchant for chic . For decades, the strolling women who flaunted their fur in winter and still the men curving loudly around the “Kö” and showing off expensive vehicles that were as open as possible were symbolic of the image of the luxury mile.

The catchment area of ​​the retail trade extends far beyond the city, to the Ruhr area or the nearby Netherlands. For the furriers based on Königsallee, visitors from the Arab Emirates and Russia also recently provided an important customer base.

General

Recruiting young talent, furrier workshop on Schadowstrasse (1990)

Unlike in most other industries, fur requires craftsmanship adapted to the individual fur due to the wide range of its starting products, the different skins from different animal species and their individuals. Rationalization through industrialization is therefore only possible to a limited extent. This has changed little since the Middle Ages, with the exception of the invention of the fur sewing machine , which saves considerable time . However, even sewing with the machine requires considerable practice and skill. Also the purposes , the tensioning of the skins and furs is now usually no longer done with purpose nails and purpose pliers, but with compressed air staplers and purpose forceps.

The production of a fur coat may take a few working days. Since the raw material is often expensive, the wage cost component of high-quality fur, such as mink, does not necessarily have a decisive influence on the share of the sales price. In principle, this enables a small furrier craft business to survive even in the highest wage state of the Federal Republic, especially since its product should generally be more individual and carefully crafted. The often high value also makes it sensible for the consumer to have the fur updated from time to time, to have repairs or other services carried out, or even to give it to the furrier in the fur preservation during the summer. This was especially true until the end of the 20th century, when considerable difficulties arose.

After the Second World War, the Federal Republic of Germany quickly became the largest fur consumer country worldwide, at least in terms of per capita consumption. When the first warm winters began towards the end of the 1980s, and at the same time animal welfare groups and the vegan movement first and foremost attacked the wearing of fur, many fur suppliers left the industry and many furrier children did not take up their parents' profession for the first time. After reaching the age limit, the companies, some of which had existed for many generations, ceased operations. It also became increasingly clear that the furrier, who is dependent on good to very good business locations, cannot completely do without casual customers, was no longer able to earn the corresponding high rents, which were not a major problem during the extraordinary fur boom of the post-war decades. Skinning is essentially a seasonal business; the craftsman bridges the summer with changes, repairs, fur preservation and other services. According to an evaluation from 1965, German furriers achieved an average of 51.6 percent of their sales in the last three months of the year. In inner-city locations, however, the furrier has to compete with shops for the same rent, and increasingly with branches that sell their products all year round. In addition, there was the dependence on the weather in the case of persistent global warming. Fur is now almost as subject to fashion as textiles. In the following season, the furs no longer have the same sales opportunities, especially not with regular customers who know the models from last year's fashion show. The fashion with fur trimmings on collars and hoods, which has increasingly come back since the turn of the millennium, has little significance for the local detail freaks in terms of sales. In contrast, internet sales have so far hardly represented competition or an additional, essential line of business; the buyer wants to feel and try on the furs before buying.

history

For the early days in the then still small city of Düsseldorf, hardly anything or nothing seems to be known about skinning. After the city was raised spontaneously in 1288, the previous area of ​​Düsseldorf was initially only inhabited by farmers and fishermen, and unlike Cologne, Aachen or neighboring Neuss, there was hardly any independent craft. Handicrafts took place almost exclusively for their own needs. For the time one hundred years later, it is assumed that there were guild associations under the name of brotherhoods for several large crafts. If furriers have already lived there, they certainly did not belong, but the literature on the town's older handicraft history is very sparse. In the 15th century, the Düsseldorf handicraft was already in its prime; the furriers are not included in a list of the privileged craftsmen of the time. In 1580 the shoemakers and tanners, probably the last group of craftsmen, received confirmation as the guild of the father of the country, Duke Wilhelm ; In 1799 the Fassbinder under Elector Maximilian Joseph founded the very last guild. In 1809 the guilds were abolished as part of the liberalization that began in France.

In the land tax book from 1632 a "Bundföderer aldae Mr (Master) Johan" is named on the Zollstrasse. A colored feeder was a furrier who mainly used noble fur, named after the lively colored peritoneum of the Russian squirrel, the false fur .

The surviving cabinet accounts of Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz , who has resided in Düsseldorf since 1691 , also testify to the existence of a furrier trade in Düsseldorf in the 17th century. From this it can be seen that the Electress had some need for furrier items for herself and as a present for her surroundings and for the services of her furrier. A still existing instruction from the year 1699 for “picking up and cleaning the fur of the Electress” from Anna Maria Luisa of the Palatinate , who resides in Düsseldorf, to the local furrier, the “bondworker” Johann Welen (Johann Wolon?) Shows that already to the Time the fur workers had taken over the storage and care of the customer's furs with enough wealthy customers . On July 2, the Electress paid four Reichstaler for this service; the number and type of furs kept for it was apparently not mentioned.

Various other works and items of clothing emerge from the cabinet bills that the Electress gave to Franz David Geilmeier , who has meanwhile been appointed court curator . See at the end of this article ( → furs of Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz during her time in Düsseldorf for the years 1691 to 1717 ). When Anna Maria Luisa returned to Florence in 1917, it will have been hard for the court kürschner. Not only the Electress, but also the rest of the court were probably among his customers. However, Düsseldorf remained the administrative center and residence of numerous noble families.

In 1703, a time of economic growth, the number of domestic and foreign citizens of the current royal seat was put at a total of 8,578. The craft in general was meanwhile Düsseldorf's most important economic factor, but essentially only supplied the local population. In 1616, the Düsseldorf magistrate also complained that most of the citizens were “poor, poor craftspeople”, “so self and ire women and children love bread every day in those days when this place has absolutely no food or handling, would not know how to earn ”. In his description of the history of Düsseldorf until the end of 1900, Klaus Müller mentioned various associations of craftsmen, the furriers are not among them. For 1798 he stated that products such as wine or furs were among the city's common imported trade products.

A survey of all traders in 1816 counted three furriers; In 1831 a later secretary to the Chamber of Commerce came up with the same number. The address book of 1856 names five or six furriers, although it is not clear whether they all practiced their jobs independently. By 1859, Düsseldorf had grown so large that the numbering according to houses was changed to continuous house numbers for the streets. The change from a craftsman who mainly produced to order to a craftsman who also had finished goods was expressed in the fact that around 1880, in addition to the furriers, “fur goods stores” were listed separately in the Düsseldorf address book for the first time.

In the year 1852 the furriers were called, together with other trades that had no guild, "2 to 4 masters, likewise the journeymen of the trade 2 to 4 journeymen, among which the chairman of the examination committee in each individual case the Examination selects members of the commission to be involved ”. On January 19th at 11 a.m., after the tanners and leather riders, the furriers, along with the glove makers and saddlers, were supposed to come to the local hall of the town hall. In the list of craftsmen's examinations for the years 1857-1859, two master craftsman examinations and no journeyman's examination are noted for furriers. The official gazette of the government of Düsseldorf of January 5, 1866 shows that there were “51 different guilds” in the Düsseldorf administrative district, including only four in the Düsseldorf district. Only in Langenberg were the furriers in the shoe, slipper and furrier guild . The 1902 address directory for the city of Düsseldorf lists only a few guilds, including the tailors' guild, but not a guild of furriers.

With the so-called “Guild Act” of July 1881, when there was only one guild in Düsseldorf, a wave of new foundations began, even now the furriers were not mentioned. An indication that the furriers were perhaps united in a guild together with the tailors, much earlier, could be given by the 15th century “tailor's altar” in St. Lambertus , the mother church of the city. It is crowned by the figure of St. Martin of Tours , the patron saint of tailors. In fact, in every city, the furriers were always at odds with the tailors, because each of the trades believed that the other was wrongly messing with his craft. In the picture of the penitential altar, it is noticeable that the canon, clearly depicted at the bottom left, wears a very detailed and realistically painted almutia made of fur, the once common attribute of his class. At the top right there is also a harpist with an ermine fur collar. Both were works that, according to the legal custom of the time, were reserved exclusively for furriers. In fact, however, there does not appear to be any evidence to support such a conclusion.

For the year 1888, the Düsseldorf address book lists ten furriers and fur merchants, including J. Bisegger-Kühn, Joh. Schenkenbach, the Schwenkenberg siblings and the court furrier Julius Baumeier at Carlsplatz 18. In December 1889 and again, Julius Baumeier's fortune was but now at Benrather Strasse 15, bankruptcy proceedings opened in July 1892. As early as 1874 he had moved from the vegetable market 8 to the corner of Mittelstrasse and Wallstrasse 8.

Until the 19th century, fur was understood to be a fur-lined cloth coat that was mainly worn by men. At the end of the Middle Ages , the fur-lined scabbard was a status symbol in the big cities to which Düsseldorf was not a part ; it was also shown in summer on appropriate occasions. That changed quite significantly around 1900, favored by the invention of the fur sewing machine, which enabled much more economical production and more complex processing techniques. Beginning with a seal jacket, it was no longer just the fur trimmings, muffs and fur scarves that were already common for women, but Persian, mink and other furs that were worn with the hair facing outwards. For the first time, fur opened up to a wide range of middle-class customers, inexpensive types of fur, especially rabbit fur in many types of refinement, made fur affordable even for less well-off buyers. The furrier trade and also the fur manufacture experienced a tremendous boom.

The Craftsmen Act of July 26, 1897 obliged German independent, non-factory craftsmen to become members of so-called compulsory guilds. However, the documents of the district craftsmen only state 1934 as the year of the foundation of today's "Kürschnerinnung Düsseldorf for the urban districts of Düsseldorf and Neuss and the districts of Düsseldorf-Mettmann and Grevenbroich", the year when the entire German craft sector was reorganized with compulsory guilds after the National Socialists came to power has been. At the same time, the major certificate of proficiency , the master craftsman's examination , was reintroduced to achieve independence and the authorization to train apprentices in the craft.

Advertisement for Julius Baumeier's fur goods dealership (1873)

At least some of the Düsseldorf furrier companies were involved in the Federation of German Furrier Guilds established in 1885 . When on May 9, 1925, a study commission of German furriers and fur manufacturers “with Germany's most beautiful and largest steamer” Columbus set out for the USA in order to consolidate relationships that had been loosened by the First World War and to get to know the very different American fur production and marketing there , Franz Häupler and Arnold Bisegger from Düsseldorf were among the twelve participants.

The Schenkenbach furrier family owns two photos showing a carriage of the Düsseldorf furrier guild during a craftsmen's parade, dated "around 1930". According to the founding of the guild, it could have been 1934 at the earliest. The car is decorated with various fur panels, with fox and leopard skins. One photo shows employed masters and journeymen in their white coats, which are typical of the fur industry, next to the guild board with the chief master Franz Häupler, Jean Schenkenbach, Paul Albert and Hubert Wolff.

In the meantime there is no longer any obligation to be a member of the guild; membership is now compulsory for the Chamber of Crafts. In view of the decrease in furrier businesses in the Düsseldorf area, if the development continues, the furrier guild will one day dissolve due to a lack of members and that the individual furriers, if they wish, will become members of the umbrella organization, the central association of the furrier trade . The central association organizes annual competitions for the furrier companies and their trainees, among other things .

After 1900

In a survey by the furrier association in 1907, no furrier apprentices were given for Düsseldorf; in nearby Cologne there were six, in Germany a total of 382. In Cologne, a collective agreement was also concluded in 1905 after employers had founded an association:

“The nine-hour day, payment of public holidays, fourteen-day notice period, 33⅓ percent for the first two hours of overtime, a 50 percent surcharge for further overtime and Sunday work was achieved. During the knocking time there is an allowance of 25 pfennigs per day. No worker could be forced to work from home, nor could workers take on work for other businesses. This contract was valid until September 1, 1906. If no notice of termination was given on July 1, the contract was valid for a further year. "

- Heinrich Lange, Albert Regge: History of the dressmakers, furriers and cap makers in Germany

The family of the businessman Josef Schächter , who had his fur specialty shop at Königsallee 72 in 1933 , belonged to the members of the fur industry who were affected by the persecution of the Jews during the Nazi era . In 1930 it was entered in the address book under the old town address Hohe Straße 51. His wife Lina, née Richter , was from Vienna. The daughter Erika was born in Vienna in 1922, the son Alfons in 1925 in Düsseldorf. Due to the boycott of Jewish shops, they left Germany and signed off for Vienna at the beginning of September 1933, most recently living in Vienna's 6th district at Millergasse 26. Only their daughter Erika survived the Holocaust . Josef, Lina and Alfons Schächter were deported to Opole on February 26, 1941 , where a satellite camp of the Auschwitz concentration camp was located. You did not survive. Two other names suggest Jewish fur shop owners. The Adolf Goldwasser company on Gustav-Poensgen-Straße is no longer listed in 1934. Georg Nathan, who was registered at Graf-Adolf-Strasse 21 in 1933 and the following year at Graf-Adolf-Strasse 16, disappeared in 1934. None of these addresses listed a fur supplier in the following year.

During the First World War, Cologne employers tried unsuccessfully to introduce an hourly wage instead of weekly wages, as well as the abolition of public holidays and the extension of working hours on Saturdays from “5½ to 7 o'clock”. With the occupation of the Ruhr area on January 11, 1923 and the subsequent inflationary devaluation of money, all collective agreements were largely worthless anyway. For the Reich territory, however, a general collective agreement for the furrier trade had already been decided in 1920 , and the attempt to conclude Reich collective agreements had failed. The occupation of the Ruhr area, including Düsseldorf, ended in July / August 1925. The German furrier association met in Düsseldorf on July 25, 1925 .

After 1945

Before the Second World War, the furriers were mainly in the old town , in the direction of Königsallee to Steigenberger Hof, but now the most exclusive fur suppliers were on Königsallee. The long-established Kürschner, Schenkenbach and Wolff, who remained in the old town, had their own commercial buildings and mainly served the middle, but also the upper price range. A second concentration was for a few decades on Friedrichstrasse, a 2-A business location south of Königsallee, where there were already heaps of furrier shops in the past.

The gold medal awarded at the annual performance competition of the German furrier trade temporarily lost some of its advertising value in Düsseldorf. The businesses located here were so fashionable and technically efficient that in 1985, for example, of 141 award-winning businesses across Germany, twelve came from Düsseldorf. For comparison, there were ten furriers in the much larger cities of Berlin and four each in Hamburg and Munich.

The association Initiative Pelzgestaltung (VIP), which covers the German-speaking region, temporarily had four Düsseldorf members, despite the fact that many customers had shared and overlapping advertising material. In 1971, 19 companies took part in a joint fashion show of the furriers' guild in the Düsseldorf Hilton Hotel. Every year, together with the guild, community advertisements appeared in the daily newspapers at the beginning of the winter season. In October 1985 a 5-page supplement to the Rheinische Post included advertisements from 25 guild members. Much indicates a collegial relationship between the competitive furriers.

Boston Terrier on Königsallee with a mink collar (2012)

Disputes mainly took place with companies not belonging to the guild, especially in connection with questionable clearance sales and missing or incorrect labeling of goods. Clearance sales by fur vendors with actual or alleged discounts worried the furriers at times to a considerable extent. In 1975 there are reports of around 30 injunctions that furriers obtained against department stores, chain stores and sole proprietorships that advertised “particularly high-quality furs at uniquely low prices” in the daily press, but without any noticeable success for the furriers. The name Christen , also called “House of Furs Christians”, was mentioned again and again at Graf-Adolf-Platz. Already in October 1971 there had been a 50% settlement with a claim of 4.5 million marks from Christen-Pelze, Düsseldorf, with their creditors, in which the four stores of the company were transferred to the main creditors. When the company Kurt H. Christen, Haus der Pelze , headquartered in Wuppertal went bankrupt in 1980, it was assumed that it was possibly the largest bankruptcy in German fur history. At the same time, bankruptcy proceedings were in progress against the company's managing director. With eight stores in top locations in various major German cities at the time, Kurt H. Christen's annual turnover was well over 20 million marks. With several changes of ownership, Christian companies repeatedly announced eviction sales. At the time, it was still strictly regulated that only the regular goods, which were otherwise only available in the previous scope, could be offered in a clearance sale due to business closure. A "pushing" of goods was prohibited. After repeated disputes, the guild, together with the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, arranged for all furs registered with the company at the start of the company's last Düsseldorf clearance sale to be marked with a seal.

As in other cities in North Rhine-Westphalia, the Boecker KG branch , Jan-Wellem-Platz 1 (bankruptcy 2004) with its 10th branch when it opened, was an important fur supplier from the textile industry . A large lettering on the roof of the corner house proclaimed “mode + pelz”. The provider primarily in the lowest price range, but with Germany's largest fur sales for years, was the clothing store C&A Brenninkmeijer, with its German headquarters in Düsseldorf.

Percy Müller (* 1945) had a special business concept . The Bild newspaper referred to him as the "court furrier of the Dutch Queen Beatrix" when he closed down the business. He ran his “salon sale” on Suitbertusstraße 137, only a small sign “ℳcreation” indicated the company. He mainly sold his fur in the high-quality sector with fashion shows, in health resorts, in connection with fashion magazines also in Düsseldorf, but above all on cruise ships. The company existed until the 2010s.

On November 28, 1987, an anti-fur demonstration by opponents of animal testing took place with a march past the fur shops. The demonstration was approved with conditions "and the police have promised to protect the furrier shops". It was probably the first of other such and similar actions, accompanied by damage to property, such as scratched windows, throwing paint bags or butyric acid attacks on Düsseldorf fur shops. On December 11, 1987 in Bonn, according to information from the industry, with the participation of over 3,500 people, members of the fur industry demonstrated against what they believed to be one-sided reporting on their profession. The Düsseldorf fur companies chartered two buses for the journey to the then federal capital.

Customer in a sable coat at Tiffany's on Königsallee (2016)

While the furrier usually tries to cover the entire business and the complete service around the fur, almost nobody in Düsseldorf deals with the trade of used fur. There were too great concerns that the customer might suspect that instead of a new fur a worn part had been pushed under. Towards the end of the 20th century, inquiries about what to do with the surprisingly received, in some cases considerable quantities of fur goods, increased, mainly through inheritance. More and more furriers gave in to this and took customers' fur in part payment. Most of them were probably sold on to middlemen who exported them mainly to Eastern European countries, others were used for repairs and perhaps also to supplement the redesign of customer furs. Otherwise, second-hand companies in the textile industry and occasional specialty shops with used furs, which usually also had a small workshop, carried out the retail trade with the purchase and sale of furs taken on commission. There were a few such companies in Düsseldorf, the most important one was probably Pelura (abbreviation for “fur and tobacco”) near the train station until 1999 , a company sign still attested to this until March 2019. The company, founded in 1975 and managing director Heinz Borchert , had relocated its headquarters from Hanover to Düsseldorf in February 1982. From 2014 to the beginning of 2020, the Oberhausen master furrier Frank Nies had a branch on Corneliusstraße 3 in Düsseldorf in addition to his branch in Cologne-Holweide, which preferred the purchase and sale of worn furs. There were no furriers in Düsseldorf until 2019 that trade in fashionably updated furs, as exist in other German towns.

With the softening of the traditional business principles for solid furriers, no purchase of worn furs, other advertising methods, previously viewed as dubious, emerged. The master furrier Udo du Bellier , in the old town on Grabenstrasse 7.He praised the trade-in at half the new price in 1982, at the same time, a handy second television set for the recommendation of a new customer and in 1984 recommended a Baubetreuungs-GmbH, for which he vouched.

Even before the Second World War there was a fur ingredients shop in Düsseldorf , sample cards from the Carl Gentz ​​company , Cranachstrasse 12, were still preserved at the Gerresheimer Pelz-Orlob furrier ( → see Karl Gentz ). After the war, the K & B Karschinierow & Barkowsky fur ingredients store was founded on Fischerstr. 49. Soon trading as Gustav Karschinierow , now at Vulkanstrasse 13, the company not only supplied customers from Düsseldorf, but also as temporarily the largest German fur ingredients dealer, with its own fur silk weaving mill in Rheydt and a branch in Frankfurt am Main, all of Europe. The son Uriel Karschinierow (born September 3, 1938, † July 1, 2011) traveled as a traveler of his company with the samples of the fur ingredients to southern Italy and Scandinavia. The company Gustav Karschinierow went bankrupt as a result of bad investments and changed demands in fur processing, and Uriel Karschinierow continued to run it for some time as a small business.

A few tobacco merchants, the wholesalers for the fur trade, were based in Düsseldorf. Their customers were spread across North Rhine-Westphalia and Germany, possibly even beyond, and they probably only served the Düsseldorf furriers to a small extent. An exception was the Erich Mantel company on Stresemannstrasse, where the furriers mainly bought their accessories , the skins that are needed for repairs and additions to redesigns. The company was founded on July 1st, 1930 by Erich Mantel, “Trading with furrier assortments of all common articles”. Erich Mantel attended secondary school in Breslau. He learned at the Bittmann company in Wroclaw and after his military service he worked for various companies as a traveler and representative. The predecessor company of his wholesaler opened in Düsseldorf was the company Jonni Wende at Kaiser-Wilhelm-Straße 18, it had branches in Leipzig, Brühl 37/39 and Hamburg, Bergstraße 14. During the Second World War, his wife Erich Mantels continued the company, which had to be relocated five times due to bombing. The last owner of the Erich Mantel company was the tobacco merchant Dieter Cofalla (* 1936), the nephew of the founder Erich Mantel.

In 2020 there were still two furriers in Düsseldorf, both long-established: at the beginning of the year they moved from the old town to Königstraße, the Schenkenbach fur store and the Halfmann fur factory on the left bank of the Rhine in Oberkassel . Another furrier, Elisabeth Fritzsche , Fritzsche fashion studio , somewhat hidden in Düsseldorf-Golzheim, Felix-Klein-Straße 1, had closed her shop after a clearance sale on March 31, 2019.

Guild logo

List of the chief masters of the Düsseldorf furrier guild since 1934

1) 1934 - June 1, 1945 Franz Häupler
2) June 1, 1945 to February 9, 1951 Carl Langner
3) February 9, 1951 to May 19, 1954 Franz Häupler

4) May 19, 1954 to September 10, 1967 Hubert Wolff
5) May 24, 1968 to May 18, 1972 Karl Heinz Schäfer
6) May 18, 1972 to April 24, 2008 Fredi Vesterling

7) April 24, 2008–2014 Alexander Slupinski
8) Since 2014 H.-Bernd Schenkenbach. As of 2019

Important Düsseldorf furriers (selection)

Bisegger and Bisegger-Kühn

Bisegger-Kühn, office building at the corner of the barracks and Grabenstrasse
Commons : Kürschnerfamilie Bisegger  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

The Bisegger fur store in the center of Düsseldorf's old town, at Flingerstraße 21, was listed in the Düsseldorf address book as early as 1870 . Its first owner was Johannes Bisegger (born February 12, 1841 in Kirchberg, St. Gallen; † November 15, 1904). 1890 is not far from the previous address, on Casernenstrasse 11, Johannes Bisegger and as the owner of the fur, hat and umbrella shop, his wife Josefine Wilhelmine geb. Kühn (born November 18, 1841 in Aachen; † October 12, 1905) was entered in the address book.

In the Düsseldorfer Theater Rundschau of 1913, the purveyor to the court Bisegger-Kühn , founded in 1868, still recommended himself at Kasernenstrasse 11, at the corner of Grabenstrasse, with the range of fine fur goods as well as the storage of fur goods and the sale of umbrellas and sticks.

Arnold Bisegger (born January 18, 1874 in Düsseldorf; † November 13, 1936; married to Maria, née Decker, 1882–1968) was mentioned in the industry in 1924 when he successfully followed up on a study trip for members of the German fur industry at the Rheinisch-Westfälischer Kürschnertag promoted the USA (the desired grants were approved). Together with his Düsseldorf colleague Franz Häupler, he then traveled to the USA in 1924 as part of the study trip of German furriers and fur manufacturers. Until it was brought into line in 1934, Arnold Bisegger headed the Reichsbund der Furrier- and Cap-Makers in Germany alongside the chairman Adolf Feldmann , Adolf Doll (Berlin) and Gustav Henke .

In 1953, at least until 1957, the Bisegger-Kühn company had an entry in the specialist address book at Alleestraße 38, today's Heinrich-Heine Allee, in the building of the luxury hotel Breidenbacher Hof . Probably afterwards the first Düsseldorf branch of the Berlin fur store Herpich resided there. In the previous year, 1956, it was listed in the specialist address book next to Bisegger-Kühn on Alleestraße EG Bisegger on Kaiser-Wilhelm-Ring.


Hanns Bisegger was the son of the Düsseldorf master furrier Adolf Bisegger , who died early and was the chairman of the district association of furriers in North Rhine-Westphalia. Hanns attended the humanistic high school in Düsseldorf and then studied law at the universities of Leipzig and Munich, Paris and Montpellier . He actually wanted to become a diplomat, he later took over the post of consul. At the insistence of his father, however, he learned skinning and joined his parents' fur business. In 1928, after training in the fur and textile trade, he passed the journeyman's examination and in 1930/31 the master’s examination in Düsseldorf. In 1936 he took over the “Fashion Office for Furs” in Berlin together with Ludwig Ringelhan from Hanover. After the operation as a shopping and department head at home and abroad, in Berlin in homes Kersten and Tuteur and more years at CA Herpich sons , he opened in 1938 in Berlin en Stamps in business and the fur salon of the Viennese company Peniczek & Rainer on the street Unter den Linden 75, next to the Hotel Adlon . When the Berlin branch of the highly respected company “was to pass into other hands, he was the only one to consider. Only he was able to head the representative fur business of the Reich capital in the previous framework. ”What the Jewish industry colleague Philipp Manes cautiously described as“ transferring into other hands ”was the expropriation and Aryanization of the company with owners of Jewish origin.

In Berlin he opened two large fur salons , in 1940 the second on Kurfürstendamm 230. In Berlin on Kurfürstendamm, the Hanns Bisegger company had an exclusive shop in a new building that “far surpassed Edelpelze Berger's beautiful shop in terms of spatial art”. Philipp Manes wrote immediately before he was deported as a Jew to the Theresienstadt concentration camp and murdered in the Auschwitz concentration camp shortly before the end of the war :

“At last we have the“ Pelzpalais ”that our industry has wanted for years.

In the corner building on Kommandantenstrasse in Berlin-Mitte, Hanns Bisegger and his wife founded their own company in Berlin in 1936. In the first few years there were still none of the goods restrictions caused by the war that followed, 'he could still buy freely and choose material that suited his fine taste, for whom the best seemed just good enough'. Right from the start, he knew how to give the company its own distinctive character that stood out from other fur shops, namely, through the exquisite shape and quality of its products. So every piece that came out of his hands turned into a real model that was unique. [...] Hanns Bisegger brought with him the aptitude to come first, not only did he have the professional qualities, but also his whole personality, the dignity and serious restraint of his being made him predestined for the post of leader of the branch. ' A year later, in 1937, the company exported 'very important'.

Furnished with exquisite taste, very calm and elegant, muted colors of the carpet, the curtains and the armchairs, the walls. Everything unobtrusive, functional, but in every smallest device you can recognize the hand of the artist who was able to document his own style here.

And that was created during the war in the winter of 1940/41. The young generation is at work here, who bravely dare to take on the greatest of their own. And quite a few furriers in the province can take an example from Bisegger's furnishings of how you can create a beautiful sales room with your own means - material and form used correctly.

[...] Perhaps the example of Hanns Bisegger is the beginning of a new era for the retail business of the capital. "

- Philipp Manes, 1941

In 1946, after the end of the war and after the loss of the Berlin fur companies, Hanns Bisegger went to North Rhine-Westphalia and set up a new company in Bielefeld , from which the Jobis company ( JO hannes BIS egger) emerged. In 1957 the company was one of the leading companies in the industry and employed around 1,000 people. The Berlin shop was now on Kurfürstendamm 36, where the Jobis collections were also presented while they were traveling through Berlin . Johannes Bisegger was a co-founder of the Düsseldorf fashion fair Igedo . The Jobis company manufactured women's costumes, wool coats and poplin coats. In April 1953, Johannes Bisegger resumed the Berlin fur company, now based in Bielefeld, where a street was named after him. Branches were set up in Berlin, Frankfurt and Düsseldorf.

The Jobis brand's textile collection embodied a classic fashion style in a particularly high-quality genre. As early as the 1950s, sophisticated costumes were used, and in the 1980s, blazers and small clothing such as skirts, blouses, trousers and knitwear were added.

Fur Buchheim

Commons : Pelz Buchheim  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

The small, rather inconspicuous furrier Buchheim, which was ultimately based in Düsseldorf, had a long tradition. Your company founder was Karl Gottlieb Buchheim , who set up his own business in Langensalza in 1794 . In 1924 Philipp Manes visited one of his successors, the furrier Otto Buchheim in Langensalza. He found an excellently organized shop, with large, modern, beautifully furnished rooms, which, in addition to fur goods, ran a special men's department. He was particularly impressed by the customer recruitment, which, due to the small size of the village, had to appeal to customers who lived further away, even if the farmers who had become rich had spent a lot of money on furs in earlier years. On the one hand, the owner and his “enterprising wife with sure-looking taste” had a brochure printed, the pictures of which were designed by a “strange artist”. But there was also advertising, “in a completely new, peculiar form. He had an advertising film made in Berlin. The recordings were made in the form of a fashion show and shown in all cinemas throughout Thuringia. The success was of course excellent, and the name of the company became known far beyond Thuringia's borders ”.

The business passed to his son Karl Eduard Buchheim , whose successor was Karl Hermann Buchheim . He moved the company from Langensalza to Eisenach in Thuringia in 1868 , where the conditions for the sales business were better. His son, Karl August Buchheim (born January 21, 1907 in Eisenach; † December 6, 1991 in Düsseldorf) learned the furrier trade in Frankfurt am Main. After his apprenticeship from 1924 to 1927, he first went to his parents' business, then to Munich for two more years of training, then to Switzerland, to Rapperswil and Zurich , with interruptions . He passed his master's examination in Leipzig in 1932 after attending the German furrier school . In 1937 he took over the business in Langensalza. In the following year he married Charlotte Pfau , daughter of the shoe retailer Artur Pfau , Eisenach. The marriage had three children, in 1934 the daughter Inge, who later lived near Düsseldorf, in 1938 the son Karl-Heinz and in 1943 the son Günter.

Karl Buchheim (* 1907) took over the Eisenach company in 1983. In 1943, during the last world war, the company is listed there on Schlageterstrasse 1, the previous Goldschmiedenstrasse, and under Hainweg 3 in the address book. Due to the war, however, the business had come to a standstill.

Karl Buchheim did not return from Soviet captivity until 1950 and went to Düsseldorf. After the family had also moved from the Soviet occupation zone to Düsseldorf, the senior Karl August, after a long wait for a favorable opportunity and employment as a master furrier in various companies there, went into business again on February 1, 1958. In 1957 he took over a company at Kopernikusstraße 26-30, from where he moved to Kirchfeldstraße 64 in 1960. On July 1, 1963, he also went to the previous shop of master furrier O. Hartig on Collenbachstrasse 3, which his wife ran as a branch. In 1969 he had to move his main business again because of a new building, to Talstrasse 99. The buildings in Kirchfeldstrasse and Collenbachstrasse were family-owned in 1994. Before 1972, the company employed an average of eight to ten skilled workers. Another temporary establishment was Am Dreieck in Düsseldorf-Pempelfort.

The son Karl-Heinz Buchheim (born March 22, 1938), the sixth generation of furriers, got an apprenticeship in Düsseldorf with his colleague Klaus Boddenberg , Königsallee 18. In 1967 he passed his master craftsman examination. While his father was still alive, he and his wife Angelika took over the management of the company. In 1982 the company had no shop windows, but as it was called in May 1962 on the occasion of the award of the “Golden Master’s Certificate” by the Chamber of Crafts on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the profession: “The efficiency and the specialist knowledge ensure that through word-of-mouth propaganda further continuation of the skinning with only self-made products for customers ”. However, the company had “a large workshop and many skilled workers”. The last small shop on Bilker Allee 211 had a window display again. All changing addresses were not typical or even exclusive business locations assumed for a fur shop. Around 1988 the daughter Andrea also did an apprenticeship as a furrier. She would have been the first woman to head the company in the eighth generation of furriers. However, in 1994 only one additional employee was employed, and in 2000 an advertisement for the sale of the company appeared.

The third son of Karl August, Günter Buchheim , was in the 7th generation as a smokers merchant and fur manufacturer. He learned at the Düsseldorf fur wholesale company Hans Strelow (* 1924; † April 11, 1981 in Düsseldorf) and stayed there until the company was dissolved. On July 1, 1980, he started his own tobacco wholesale business on Bülowstrasse 3; his mother Charlotte had died unexpectedly before.

Feilitsch furs avant-garde

Feilitsch (Kö-Galerie, 2011)
Commons : Feilitsch Pelze  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Helmut Feilitsch (born May 25, 1926 in Leipzig; † August 2005 in Thailand ) founded his own business as a furrier in 1951 in Frankfurt am Main. His mother, Ilse Feilitsch, born in Leipzig, "the good soul of the business on Düsseldorfer Strasse in Frankfurt, [...] very well known and respected in the industry", died in 1994 at the age of 96. When he came to Düsseldorf in 1990, he had already earned a special reputation in the fur industry in Frankfurt am Main as an outstanding specialist with unusual ideas. His apprenticeship certificate with three times "very good" had already caused a sensation, at the national competition for young furriers he was 1st national winner, and he had also completed his technical examination as a national winner. Immediately afterwards he went into business for himself as a contract skinner and quickly worked his way up to one of the leading furriers. He moved into his first retail shop in 1959 in the Carlton Hotel in Frankfurt. In 1974 and 1975 he was able to open two new, exclusive shops, a shop with a showroom for his clothing wholesaler, the second in June of that year at Niddastraße 67, and in 1986 another in Wiesbaden. In the annual performance competition of the furrier trade, he was temporarily the best in several tender groups. His mink coats in peacock feather optics, which he achieved through an elaborate work technique, caused a sensation. Sporty, often on a racing bike, he took part in numerous marathon and other running competitions with good results. At the Taunus Triathlon in July 1985, he was by far the oldest participant among the 130 participants.

His small shop on Düsseldorfer Straße was directly on the passage to Niddastraße, at the time a center of the German and international fur and fur clothing trade. He was told that if something was not in stock, he would ask the customer to wait a while, he would just go to his warehouse. He was then able to present furs of any type and quantity from the neighboring clothing companies through the back door.

Helmut Feilitsch later had an unusual, completely new idea for his Düsseldorf retail business. An auction house had opened on Königsallee and held auctions all day long in a shop, selling antiques and, above all, oriental carpets. As an auction house, it was not bound by the then still rigid opening times. The auctions were very entertaining and the rooms were extremely well attended, at times they were overcrowded. Helmut Feilitsch rented a niche in the shop and was very popular in “his” almost always full shop. The fur companies Slupinski and Lipsia were in the immediate vicinity , while Georg Krampe , Wolff and Schenkenbach , among others, were a little further away . First of all, the competitors had the Feilitsch company forbidden from keeping their sales booth open for longer than legally permitted. In October 1991, the Düsseldorf furrier guild obtained a judgment from the regional court against Helmut Feilitsch, in which he was forbidden to claim that he was selling goods from his own studio without owning a workshop. The trial documents show that Helmut Feilitsch was removed from the Frankfurt handicrafts register on November 30, 1988 and now only ran a fur retailer in Düsseldorf.

Feilitsch GmbH later moved into sales rooms in the Kö-Galerie , Königsallee 58. The company was continued by Helmut Feilitsch's stepson Patrick Gabriel (born September 19, 1965) and Manuela Gabriel . At the end of 2014 there was a clearance sale due to “business closure in the Kö-Galerie”. According to their own information, Patrick and Manuela Gabriel employed 7 employees and 20 people in production at the time. From the end of 2015 to the end of January 2016, the company appeared again for a winter season, again in the Kö-Galerie, on the first floor in a difficult business situation with only a few walk-in customers. In 2017 Feilitsch GmbH , Brühler Weg 5a, 40667 Meerbusch, was present with a sales booth at the Düsseldorf trade fair " Boot ".

Halfmann fur manufactory

Halfmann Fur Manufactory (2013)
Commons : Halfmann Pelzmanufaktur  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

The Halfmann Pelzmanufaktur , until March 2013 Halfmann Pelzatelier , is located in Oberkassel, that is the district to the left of the Rhine, opposite the old town. An above-average proportion of wealthy citizens live here and in the surrounding area. The business premises have been on Luegallee 49, the main and commercial street on the left bank of the Rhine, since the beginning. In 1971 it was mentioned that it was still the only specialist shop in its branch in Oberkassel. It is said that the citizens of Oberkassel do not like to cross the Rhine, but prefer to shop in their district. In 2019, many other owner-managed specialty shops were able to assert themselves here.

The Düsseldorf address book from 1856 lists seven people with the name Halfmann. It is noticeable that three of them are seamstresses and one cleaning worker, i.e. they have already worked in the clothing industry.

The Halfmann fur shop with attached furrier was founded in October 1932 by master furrier Alfred Halfmann after he had gathered relevant specialist knowledge and experience in Leipzig, among other places. In the year it was founded, it only occupied half of the current window front, and a clothes care facility was located in the right-hand part of today's shop.

Rolf-Dieter Halfmann (born April 6, 1934) led the company in the next generation . He had completed his apprenticeship in a well-known Duisburg industry company, and in September 1963 he passed the master craftsman's examination. When he took over the business at the beginning of 1969, he had the shop remodeled according to modern standards that same year. The workshop, which until then had been in the building opposite, moved to the first floor above the shop. Before 1972, there were about ten employees on average.

The current owner is the master furrier Guido Halfmann (born October 24, 1962), the grandson of the company founder. Guido Halfmann is the third generation to run the business together with Anja Halfmann . When the company name was updated in 2013, the shop and the shop window front were completely redesigned. The son Robin also learned the craft of furrier and works in his parents' business. As of 2019

Franz Häupler

Commons : Pelzhaus Franz Häupler  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files
Job offer of the fur house Häupler (1922)

The Felzhaus Häupler had its shop from 1922 to 1957 next to the palace hotel Breidenbacher Hof , Königsallee 15. Around the beginning of the 1960s, the Felzhaus Franz Häupler e. K. expired in the commercial register.

Around 1916, Franz Häupler took over the Linthout fur store , which was already located here . Ten years earlier, in 1906, Johann Linthout GmbH was still listed under the heading “ Natural Preparer ” at the old town address Grabenstrasse 19. Johann Linthout was married to Eugenie Wilhelmine , nee Malkowsky .

In 1908 the owners of the house at Königsallee 15 with the fur factory were Eugenie Linthout and Johann Linthout. In 1906 it had belonged to Hugo Schüll's widow . Franz Häupler became the owner of the house around 1916/1917. Johann Linthout's address was already in The Hague, Holland in 1920, and by 1922 at the latest, Franz Häupler owned the office building on Königsallee. In 1918, Häupler was still operating under the company name of its predecessor.

Franz Häupler was the first head master of the Düsseldorf furrier guild. He held the office from 1934 to June 1, 1945, and again after the war from February 5, 1954 to May 19, 1954. His name is also mentioned in connection with the management of the Reich Association of German Furriers .

In Cologne, just under 50 kilometers away from Düsseldorf , one of the most respected furrier shops existed until the 1990s under the company name Gebr. Häupler, Specialhaus elegant fur fashion . It was in the equally excellent business location Schildergasse 72/74. In 1940, a customer apologized for the high price charged for the repair of her Indian lamb coat : "In addition, as the last furrier we only have our highly paid workshop manager, which increases the wages accordingly." The letterhead shows that the company received an award at the novelty exhibition in Leipzig in 1920.

Herpich

Commons : Herpich, Berlin and Düsseldorf  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Web label Herpich

The Berlin fashion house CA Herpich Söhne was considered the most important company in the German fur industry for several decades. Originally a furrier with a small fur shop, Herpich developed into a fashion house “with a great and elegant presentation” and one of the most respected suppliers of high-quality furs and a wholesaler for ready-made fur and pelts.

After the Second World War , Julius Herpich and his wife Hilde moved the company from Berlin to Düsseldorf, where it celebrated its 150th anniversary in 1983. At the time, it was managed by their daughter Monika and son-in-law Henning Walter , who joined the company in 1973.

The Julius Herpich KG in the Hotel Breidenbacher Hof , on the Heinrich-Heine-Allee side, was evidently located in the premises of the Bisegger-Kühn fur house, which was located there at least until about 1957. As in Berlin, Herpich was considered a particularly exclusive fur address. In 1981, Herpich was recorded for the last time in the specialist address book at this address. In 1979 the company was then given the even more sophisticated address Königsallee 30 in the newly built Kö-Center . On November 15, 2001, an entry was made in the commercial register as Julius Herpich GmbH Pelze & Modellbekleidung . In autumn 1998 there was a clearance sale due to the closure of the business, the entry has since been deleted.

For years, the workshop and sales manager for furs was the master furrier Karl-Wilhelm Killich (born November 10, 1930; † approx. 2007). In the afternoons he was regularly found drinking coffee across the street in the gourmet restaurant Victorian until he went into business for himself and took over the business premises of the Helene Oel (née Schichberg) fur store on Friedrichstrasse 100 . In 1954, Helene Oel's shop was still at Friedrichstrasse 125; she founded it in July 1932 in Wehrhahn 32.

Killich was assisted by his partner Ferid Jalouli (born May 27, 1951), who continued the K. W. Killich business from January 2007 until it closed in 2011.

Fur House Jordan

Commons : Furry House Jordan  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files
Pelzhaus Jordan, Königsallee (1975)

In 1920 founded Magdeburg Friedrich Wilhelm Jordan (February 14, 1900 in Magdeburg) the Pelzhaus Jordan . His brother Werner Jordan (born September 30, 1902 in Groß-Ottersleben ) soon joined the company as a partner. After Friedrich Wilhelm Jordan passed the master craftsman's examination, the company was renamed F. u. W. Jordan entered in the commercial register. The company acquired “a good reputation in Magdeburg and was one of the leading fur houses in Magdeburg” (Ulrichstraße 14) in the beautifully dignified rooms in its own home. Master furrier Friedrich Wilhelm held many offices in the craft movement in Magdeburg, including being the master master of the guild from 1946 to 1951, managing director of the supply cooperative for the province of Saxony-Anhalt and was elected to the chamber of crafts as an advisory board member.

Due to the political and economic conditions after the Second World War, the two Jordan brothers left Magdeburg in 1951 and came to Düsseldorf. They opened, now separately, two fur shops, which nevertheless advertised with the same logo, "Pelzhaus Jordan".

  • With Königsallee 100, the craftsman Friedrich Wilhelm Jordan had chosen the “finer” address, but at the southern end, also called “Kleine Kö”, which is separated from the actual shopping street by the busy Graf-Adolf-Straße.
On October 22, 1953, his company was entered with the actual company name FW Jordan KG in the Düsseldorf commercial register (deletion without liquidation in the commercial register around August 1974). His wife Ursula Jordan was involved as a limited partner, and since 1962 his sons Thomas (* January 18, 1940 - November 14, 1998), Andreas (* 1944) and Matthias (* 1946), all of whom also passed their master craftsman examination.
After the opening of an elegant second store 700 meters away from the previous store on Königstrasse 3 in 1962, a short side street off Königsallee, one was now in the middle of the most exclusive shopping area in Düsseldorf.
In 1971, one year after the company's 50th anniversary, the company was headed by four master furriers, the senior and founder Friedrich Wilhelm Jordan and his sons Thomas, Andreas and Matthias. The senior partner and co-partner Ursula Jordan (née Nitsche) was also part of the management. An average of fifty employees were employed in production and sales at the time. In 1997 the master furriers Tobias and Thomas Jordan were registered as managing directors .
However, the entrepreneurs were unable to keep the exclusive business locations long-term. In 1973 FW Jordan KG is still registered in the technical directory under Königsallee 100; in 1966 on Graf-Adolf-Straße 9; 1979 still as FW Jordan GmbH & Co. KG, Königstrasse 3; 1983 then on Kaiserstraße 5; 1989 on Goebenstrasse 3.
The company was dissolved in May 1999, the liquidator was Matthias Jordan (born December 15, 1945), the last managing directors were Thomas and Andreas Jordan , Matthias and Andreas Jordan then moved to the textile industry.

The Jordan fur house on Friedrichstrasse, work of the architect Peter Neufert (1970)
External web link

  • The merchant Werner Jordan always had his shop with an attached furrier workshop in Friedrichstadt on Friedrichstrasse, most recently in the northern part, in the direction of the city center. In particular on the northern side facing Königsallee, it is considered a so-called 2-A business location, i.e. a very good sales location, but for less expensive products. The company had been at Friedrichstrasse 110 since around 1952, in 1955 already in house number 73 and later, for the first time additionally, in number 17, opposite the construction site of the high-rise building for the State Insurance Company, which was soon to begin , was now only a short distance from Königsallee.
Even the shop in its own building on Friedrichstrasse 73 was very representative, still typically in the style of old, somewhat plush fur shops. The last shop in his own house was designed by the respected architect Peter Neufert in a modern and lavish way, completed in 1970. A decorative natural stone wall that reached up to the first floor formed the rear wall of the shop. Since the main item in West German fur fashion of the post-war period was the curly or moiré Persian fur , Werner Jordan had previously consistently called the second store Persianerhaus . However, it was around this time that customer demand changed, thanks to increased incomes, more and more citizens were able to afford the even more desirable mink , and so the second shop after the renovation also only operated under the name Jordan. The shop in house number 73 was given up around the same time as the renovation of number 17.
In retrospect, what is perhaps the most sophisticated shop of all post-war Düsseldorf stores was described as follows:

“The predominant design element in this commercial building is the cuboid. The entrance area on Friedrichstrasse is framelessly glazed and whitewashed blocks of different sizes protrude from the ceiling. The interior design is also determined by these geometric shapes. In the sales room they also serve as flower pots for the first floor, between the cuboids are lighting systems that bring out the relief-like ceiling design even more strikingly. There are no round shapes in the entire building, interior and exterior design are dedicated to the structural element. In this building everything 'from the displays to the individual bracket' was designed by Atelier Neufert. "

- The work of the architect Peter Neufert : Anka Ghise-Beer
After Werner Jordan gave up the Düsseldorf company, the Gerson fur store from Frankfurt took over the business premises. When Gerson also closed the shop, after the change of ownership, the interior was converted into a two-storey shop gallery around a central courtyard with various tenants. The two-story stone wall was retained. In the absence of sufficient customer frequency, the shopping center was later abandoned and the difficult-to-use building was only partially used for a long time after a dentist who had moved in with his practice had acquired it. For a few years there was a pharmacy on the ground floor, the still existing natural stone back wall was probably no longer made visible.
  • Werner Jordan set up a fur shop and workshop for his son, the master furrier Klaus Jordan , on what was then Cologne's main shopping street , Hohe Straße . In 1958, Klaus Jordan resided there in house number 103 in his own rooms. In contrast to his father, he was involved in his industry, in 1983 he was again elected head master of the Cologne-Bonn furrier guild. The still most frequented Hohe Strasse lost its international flair, similar to Königsallee, with the disappearance of the partly exclusive, owner-managed retail stores. For the first time, the Cologne fur store Jordan is no longer listed in the fur industry directory of 1989.

Kimmeskamp fur house

Letterhead Pelzhaus Kimmeskamp (1971)

In 1928 Düsseldorf reported a trade journal, “Das Pelzhaus Kimmeskamp, ​​vorm. Wessoly, Hindenburgdamm 39 [today's Heinrich-Heine-Allee], which has existed since 1875, is currently building a larger new building, all the way to Neustraße. A special department for women's coats (fur) will be set up in the new rooms. A larger safe is being created in the basement to store fur ”. In September of the same year, the company announced the completion of the attached new building.

As the last member of the family, Hilde Wieler-Kimmeskamp , geb. Busch (* June 7, 1911; † August 18, 2003) the company, supported for years by the resolutely known director Fräulein Meising (* 1910; † after 2000).

In the last years of its existence the company belonged to the fur trading company Rosenberg & Lenhart , Frankfurt am Main, temporarily with the workshop manager Klaus Müller , who was already working there before the change of ownership.

Fur Kunze

Pelz Kunze, company lettering

In September 1962, Erich Kunze opened the company Pelz Kunze KG in Düsseldorf on Heinrich-Heine Allee 38 , which arose from his exclusive Berlin store, which was located in Berlin-Wilmersdorfer part of Kurfürstendamm in 1938, since 1951 on Kurfürstendamm 52 and from 1972 on Meinekestraße . The Berlin company employed around 40 people. The personally liable partner of Pelz Kunze KG, which is independent of the Berlin company, was Hildegard Kunze , while her husband Erich Kunze and the businessman Konrad Hellermann had limited partnerships . In August 1970, the Düsseldorf operations were relocated to Martin-Luther-Platz in the Simon-Bank-Center building, a corner bar with two shop windows in a good business location and a workshop on the first floor.

The Düsseldorf branch was managed by master furrier Joachim Frede (* 1924), who had learned from Kunze in Berlin, and his wife Gisela Frede . Joachim Frede came from an old furrier family. His grandfather was Adolf Doll , a well-known self-employed furrier with many honorary posts in Berlin - including chairman of the German Reich Association of Furriers. Joachim Frede worked for the Adolf Doll & Sons fur house from 1949 to 1955 . In 1955 he passed his master craftsman examination in Koblenz and also passed the commercial high school diploma. Until 1962 he worked in his father's company in Trier (company JP Schmitz). The wife Gisela also came from the fur industry, she had also learned the furrier trade in the Berlin headquarters of the Kunzes.

As early as 1936 there was an Adolf Frede in the address book under fur stores at Königsallee 69, and in 1938 at Oststraße 137.

According to its own statements, the company belonging to the " Dior Ring" only sold goods manufactured in-house. The lowest price limit of the small but exclusive shop was for models from Hochschurnutria , an otherwise rather middle price range in the fur range of that time.

Lipsia furs

Web label Lipsia
Commons : Lipsia Pelze  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

The Lipsia company was one of the leading fur suppliers in the high-priced area, thanks to its excellent location in its own premises in the pavilion of the newly built Kö-Center since 1962. The name Lipsia, Latin for Leipzig, referred to the former fur town, from where the Greek owner, who had already come to Germany as a child, moved to West Germany. The company Lipsia Pelze Achilles Pappageorgis, Frankfurt am Main was deleted from the commercial register on March 10, 1975.

Lipsia was first entered in the specialist directory in Düsseldorf in 1966 with the address Am Wehrhahn 30. In the last financial years only the workshop was located there, entrance Oststrasse 1. In the 1971/1972 telephone directory, Pelz-Import Lipsia is listed at two addresses on Königsallee, still at Königsallee 56 and in the Kö-Center, as well as Flingerstrasse 43 and Oststrasse 1.

Achilles Pappageorgis died of a heart attack on December 22, 1972 at the age of 58. Friends of his colleague Helga Kraft (* 1928), he had given her the Düsseldorf part of the company while she was still alive, and there was probably another business in Greece. Helga Kraft's preference for unusual fur colors, especially pink, was striking. She said: “I was the first to dye furs - in pink, lavender, Reseda green , jeans blue or lobster red. That was in 1959. The industry was upside down, customers were enthusiastic. Fur is a common item of clothing and colors make women more beautiful ”. During her self-employment, she married the Italian Gennaro Nastri († May 2005), who owned a flourishing ice cream parlor on the island of Capri , and took his name with her. The change in the commercial register from Lipsia-Pelzimport Helga Kraft to Lipsia Pelze Helga Kraft-Nastri took place in 1982.

Master furrier Wilhelm Werner , trained and later workshop manager in the Pelzhaus Jordan, Friedrichstrasse, was workshop manager of the workshop Oststrasse 1, corner Am Wehrhahn from 1974 until shortly before the closure of Lipsia Pelze Haute Couture GmbH and carried out the fittings on Königsallee. Then he went to the Slupinski brothers , both of whom were master furriers themselves, also on Königsallee.

In 1995 the clearance sale took place because of business closure; The owner-run women's fashion store Eickhoff , previously Königsallee 56, which also ran an important fur department, moved into the business premises . The French fashion house Christian Dior has been located there since 2014 .

The workshop equipment was taken over by the Erna Schäfer fur store on Nordstrasse 110, most recently Münsterstrasse 27, to which one of Lipsia's saleswomen, one of Helga Nastri's sisters, also moved. The Schäfer fur store had existed since 1920, initially on Achenbachstrasse 120, then on Herderstrasse, where it was bombed out during the war. In 1947 there was a new beginning at Blücherstraße 3, since 1949 the company was located in addition to the premises on the 1st floor of Blücherstraße with a shop on Nordstraße 110. Albert Liek was managing director from 1947 to 1952 , after which his son Dieter Liek took over the management. The founder and owner Erna Schäfer died in 1970. In 1987 the company passed to the master furrier Werner Herold .

Fur house Gebr. Loos

Advertisement Pelzhaus Loos, Duisburger Strasse and Ackerstrasse (1950)

The Pelzhaus Gebr. Loos was founded in 1924 by Albert Loos at Klosterstrasse 38. His sons Paul and Walter Loos († 1970), both master furriers, worked early on in their father's business. When a branch was opened on Nordstrasse 25a in 1938, the owner entrusted his son Paul with its management, while Walter Loos held a leading position in the main business until he took over the management there after the death of his father.

In directories and newspaper advertisements from 1950 the business addresses are Pfalzstrasse 11 (Albert Loos), Duisburger Strasse 5, Ackerstrasse 122 (no longer 1956) and Blumenstrasse 7, and from 1966 to 1979 Nordstrasse 25a.

After Walter Loos died in 1970, the business on Nordstrasse was closed. Paul Loos now devoted himself entirely to what was called the elegant business with two large shop windows on Klosterstrasse. Seven to eight specialists worked almost continuously in the workshop. In 1989 it is no longer entered in the specialist directory on Klosterstrasse.

Franz Loos (* 1919 in Düsseldorf; † December 31, 2006) worked as a fur trader. He came into the fur industry after the war and opened a tobacco shop in August 1951. From the beginning of 1984 until the end of the business in 1998, the Franz Loos company was run by his son.

Adolf Nagel

“Chatting about fur” with a dedication by Adolf Nagel

Master furrier Adolf Nagel had his exclusive shop on Königstraße, a short side street of Königsallee, opposite the Kö-Center. In 1950 it was entered in the specialist directory under number 8, in 1953 and later under number 7.

Adolf Nagel was a sensitive person. He wrote a 122-page book of poetry, “Chatting about fur”, published in the spring of 1965, in which he also tried to rhymed profane, rather dry facts about skinning and animal furry. In the foreword he remarked: “Conversations about furs have been a common practice during my decades of professional activity. At times it was tempting to include relevant topics and treat them with the same cheerful seriousness. Many otherwise sober technical discussions turned into a delicious and stimulating "chat about furs". At fashion shows in his shop, he said:

South American delicacies
(Schmasche = stillborn lamb)
are Boregos , Embros . Rapid
Run, dyed, sheared, came
Lincoln first
as bueno broadtail skin .
Spanish 'Schmaschen: Suppliers
the Calajos , anyway
light and durable and guarantor
good coat materials.
Because of his kindness,
as they say the "furrier death".
[...]

In 1964, the trading business of Adolf Nagel, Düsseldorf, was passed on to Rolf Boucher (born September 29, 1937), master furrier from Nuremberg. In the 2001/02 winter season, Boucher ended business operations in Düsseldorf with a clearance sale for a registered amount of 3.8 million marks. With his wife Angelika he moved to the area of Baden-Baden , where in 2007 he again registered a business "for the production of women's outerwear made of fur" with a "retail and wholesale trade in women's outerwear made of textiles, leather and fur".

Schenkenbach Haute Couture

Pelzhaus Schenkenbach 140 years in the old town (2009)
Schenkenbach Haute Couture on Königstraße after the move, before the official reopening (March 2020)
Commons : Schenkenbach Haute Couture  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

The oldest fur shop in Düsseldorf today and for a long time, which will still exist in 2020, is Schenkenbach Haute Couture , operating as Pelzhaus Schenkenbach until 2019 . Until the end of 2019 it was located in the old town on Mittelstrasse 1. Officially, while being the oldest fur shop, the neighboring Wolff company claimed for itself during its existence, but this was only based on the former takeover of the older company of Schwenkenberg siblings. A description from 1971 still applied to the meanwhile carefully renovated shop in 2019, the year before the move to Königstrasse: “You can't tell from the outside of this elegant shop that it is keeping a tradition going back more than 100 years belongs to the oldest of its kind in the place, but you can feel in its elegantly furnished rooms the dignified atmosphere that is inherent in those companies where competent and solid master craftsmen have presented their work over generations ”.

The founder Johann Schenkenbach (* 1840 in Arnoldsdorf (Neisse district); † 1909) came to Düsseldorf in 1866 and married Wilhelmine Weißmüller from Düsseldorf . In 1868 he opened a fur shop on Am Stadtbrückchen 1 (Mittelstraße 1), with umbrellas, men's hats and sticks, as was common at the time. According to the register of the mayor's office in Düsseldorf, he paid six Reichstaler taxes in the first year, and in 1875 he advertised at Stadtbrückchen 4. Soon afterwards, he moved to Flinger Straße , next to the later shop (in 1888 still number 21). Around this time, Düsseldorf was only beginning to become a major city due to the onset of industrialization. The associated upswing contributed to the development of the city and also of the fur house. In addition, Johann Schenkenbach seems to have been well networked in Düsseldorf customs, "as a master of Rhenish humor" he played an important role in club life. As early as 1906 he was able to acquire the property at Mittelstrasse 1, where the company was located until 2019.

The eldest son and successor Jean Schenkenbach (* 1873 in Düsseldorf; wife Anna Katharina Schenkenbach ) passed the master craftsman examination in the furrier trade in 1909. He modernized the shop and specialized in the increasingly fashionable fur clothing. The workshop was expanded with a nine-month renovation under the increase in the newly acquired neighboring property and a generous shop window passage was created. Well-lighted workrooms that were important for fur processing were set up, as well as technically modern fur storage rooms with the necessary safety systems, which were connected to one another by a passenger lift . The large outdoor advertising created at that time was still on the house front in 2019.

Most of the time, the Schenkenbach fur store faced particular competition from the nearby competitor Pelzhaus Wolff. When the Wolff company was still called Schwenkenberg, there was also a considerable similarity in names. In 1900, Jean Schenkenberg made it clear in a display in the Düsseldorf people sheet: Unpleasant confusion sake declare that my business is HandPointingRight.PNGonly Flingerstraße 21 HandPointingLeft.pngis . This is the corner house on Mittelstrasse, on which the Schwenkenberg company was based and on which the Schenkenbach fur store operated until 2019.

Jean's son, Hans Schenkenbach (* 1910; wife Edith, née Weyand ), learned the furrier trade in his parents' business and then continued his education in his profession and in the commercial area at home and abroad. In January 1933 he passed his master craftsman examination in Berlin. After returning from the war in 1945, he took over the company. Eighteen years after the end of the war, in 1963, the company's own office building, which also included a shop window on Flinger Strasse, was completely renovated.

In 1967 the current owner, H.-Bernd Schenkenbach , passed his master's examination in Düsseldorf in the fourth generation. He had previously gained his professional experience in the global cities of Zurich, London, Stockholm, Montreal and New York. In 2014 he was elected head master of the now greatly reduced furrier guild Düsseldorf. As of 2019 In addition to an apprenticeship as a furrier, which he completed with the grade “very good”, his son Boris also completed an apprenticeship at a bank. He does not work in his father's business.

For the sale, the company had taken over two of the sisters from Ms. Nastri (Ms. Jung was previously with Erna Schäfer , Nordstrasse), the owner of the former Lipsia fur store on Königsallee.

At the beginning of 2020 the company moved to Königstrasse 10, now trading as Schenkenbach Haute Couture in outdoor advertising , with the addition "Since 1868".

Slupinski

Slupinski (2009)
Commons : Slupinski  - collection of images, videos and audio files

After Lipsia Pelze closed her shop on Königstrasse in 1995, the Slupinski company was perceived as the undisputed finest fur shop in town. One branch was located in the Swiss winter sports resort of St. Moritz . The fur that Slupinski made available to the Venetia, Düsseldorf Carnival Princess, for 35 years during the Carnival period, a tradition that was not continued by any fellow furrier after the business was closed, attracted special attention in the Düsseldorf press.

The joint fashion shows of the Slupinskis with the Düsseldorf fashion designer Hanns Friedrichs (1928–2012) and the jeweler Georg Hornemann were “the recurring fashion event in the state capital”.

In 1928, the company founded in 1920 with the owner Heinrich Slupinski was still listed in Düsseldorf-Pempelfort at Stockkampstrasse 48, in 1930 at Tonhallenstrasse 4, then in 1933 at Schadowstrasse 27, and a few doors down the fur goods Gustav Slupinski at Schadowstrasse 47 in der 1. floor. After the Second World War, in 1950, the address was Heinrich-Heine-Allee 44, in 1953 Graf-Adolf-Strasse 106 instead, and in 1973, at least until 1983, Heinz Slupinski, Marktstrasse 16-18.

In August 1955, Heinz Slupinski (born December 12, 1920), the father of the last owner, took over the management of the company. During the Second World War, the shop, which at that time was already located on Königsallee, was destroyed and had to be rebuilt, in 1936 at number 59. (also / later? No. 61) First to the WZ-Center, on the quiet side of Königsallee, In 1986 the Slupinskis moved further south to corner house number 92. On October 1, 1984, a new entry was made in the commercial register under the name P. and A. Slupinski , Düsseldorf, Königsallee 27; The two sons Peter and Udo Alexander Slupinski were now shareholders . In 1986 the business finally passed to Peter and Alexander Slupinski, both master furriers.

Again and again, Düsseldorf fur companies were haunted by burglars, in spite of complex security systems. On March 28, 1974, skins and coats with a sales value of probably three to four million marks were stolen from Slupinski, for their replacement Heinz Slupinski offered a reward of 60,000 DM. The burglars first stole his business keys during a break-in into his private apartment, took them to the business premises on Marktstrasse in the old town and turned off the alarm system. Some of the stolen goods were already sold but not yet delivered. Two years later, furs worth around 400,000 marks were stolen from the Gerson fur store, and the owners of the adjoining sex shop turned out to be accomplices.

When the Lipsia fur store on Königsallee closed, its workshop manager, master furrier Wilhelm Werner , came to Slupinski. He stayed here until he retired, but still helped out afterwards when there was a corresponding workload.

Peter Slupinski also played polo. He and his team won a tournament in São Paulo , Brazil, to which 25 teams competed. In 2009 he was the second chairman of the Rhein Polo Club.

At the time the business was closed at the turn of 2012/2013, the company's headquarters in Düsseldorf was Königsallee 92, corner of Bahnstrasse. The rental price of the leased, around 200 square meter shop was most recently around 200 euros per square meter (if correctly stated, this would only be around 40,000 euros for the retail space), with the workshop and storage rooms it was around 600 square meters. The shop subsequently changed tenants several times and in 2019 housed a small café in the front part, facing Königsallee. Another company entry of the brothers under the name Peral Pelze, which had existed since November 2003 , most recently at the private address of Udo Slupinski, was deleted from the commercial register in September 2017.

On April 1, 2014 Urs Walder, owner of the Wyssbrod Pelzparadies in Zurich, took over the fur boutique in Via Maistra 10, which has been located in St. Moritz since 1989, from Peter & Inger Slupinski, “opposite the venerable noble hotel Badrutt's Palace and in the immediate vicinity of the other fine addresses on Via Serlas ”.

About the former Swiss Slupinski branch it was announced in 2015: "With the fur paradise Wyssbrod, another traditional store closes its doors on Zurich Bahnhofsstrasse at the end of April 2016." According to one, the new rental conditions are no longer acceptable for the company after the complete renovation of the building Message from Saturday. In addition, there is the difficult environment for the entire retail trade. Dieter Wyssbrod AG is concentrating on the “Slupinski Furs” location in St. Moritz, which was taken over in 2014. The Slupinski Pelze homepage shows the owner of Dieter Wyssbrod AG in 2019.

Furs Toursel

Furs Toursel
Fur Toursel, company history (18) .JPG
Store
Fur Toursel, company history (29a) .jpg
The interior of the shop after a renovation in 1980
Fur Toursel, company history (34) .jpg
The Farnhof


Commons : Fur Rudolf Toursel  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

The sales room of master furrier Rudolf Toursel (* 1931) on Kölner Straße 63, near Worringer Platz, was small, rather tiny for a fur shop. In return, his reputation as an outstanding specialist was all the greater. The workshop was one floor higher and the store could only be reached from there, after a customer entered, as quickly as possible through the stairwell via a back door. After closing down the business in 1991 to 2007, the same rooms were used by master furrier Alfred Klemm (born May 29, 1935), who had his shop at Steinstrasse 28 since July 1960 and before that at Nordstrasse 25a.

Rudolf Toursel was humorous, educated and convincingly eloquent. Not only inadmissible according to today's security regulations, the shop door, which was open from the outside, could only be opened from the inside by pressing a hidden button after various thefts of trickery. When Toursel was forced to hand over his money one day with a gun, he succeeded after a fearless 20-minute conversation with the cash register open, about 500 marks, and the advice that he could not leave the shop without his help and that he should not destroy his life with such a kind of income, convince the robber to give up. Exhausted, he took the magazine out of the gun to show that it was not loaded, and the owner released him for 20 marks. His later comment: "In retrospect, however, I was by no means completely cool!"

Toursel comes from an old Thuringian furrier family: his great-grandfather Theodor Toursel , master furrier and fur trader, founded the company in Stadtilm in 1860 . Grandfather Eduard Toursel was also active in the profession, as was Rudolf Toursel's father, his brother, his uncle ( Fritz Toursel ; † 1994 at the age of almost 90) and his niece Claudia (daughter of master furrier Egon Toursel, Claudia Pelze , master furrier in Potsdam).

Rudolf Toursel's grandfather founded another parent company in Kranichfeld , Thuringia, in 1893 as a master furrier and fur dealer . After his son Rudolf, the father of Rudolf II, a furrier and cap maker , joined the company, they renamed the company Eduard Toursel & Son . In 1923 Rudolf Toursel sen. At the age of 22 after completing the master's school, the master's examination. The company Egon Toursel from Bernburg (Saale) won a medal in the GDR's first fur model competition in 1964.

Rudolf Toursel jun., Who later moved to Düsseldorf. worked as a furrier assistant in Dessau-Roßlau from 1949 to 1951. From 1952 to 1953 he attended the furrier school in Leipzig, where he witnessed the uprising of July 17th. In September 1953 he passed the master craftsman examination as a furrier and hat maker. From 1956 to 1963 he worked as a foreman at the Gustav Kriech company in Frankfurt am Main. During this time he wrote the many specialist articles on the processing of the different types of fur , which were published in the specialist magazine “Rund um den Pelz” until 1965 and provided with detailed drawings. After the war, many of his furrier colleagues still had a lot of catching up to do with the latest specialist knowledge. On April 1, 1963, he joined the Beitz & Toursel company as a co-owner .

On April 1, 1965, he took over the fur shop with furrier, formerly Worringer Strasse 122, on Kölner Strasse 63, which was run by master furrier Werner Haase , under the new name Rudolf Toursel, master furrier Düsseldorf. He had already gained a special reputation in the industry, so that in the same year he was elected to the board of the furrier guild in Düsseldorf, where he remained active until he left the business in 1990.

In the backyard of the office building, which had been bleak until then, he had laid out a fern garden that he could see from his workshop. He brought with him various kinds of ferns from his vacations, which obviously thrived in the shady courtyard. As the sole individual winner, he was honored as part of the North Rhine-Westphalian competition in 1984 for “More Green in the City” and was thus featured on West German radio television the following year. Rudolf Toursel remembered: "Unfortunately, there were many inner courtyard viewers, but few potential customers".

Even in retirement in the Rhineland-Palatinate climatic health resort of Straßenhaus , he continues to cultivate his hobbies: playing the piano, photography, a diary and a family story (towards the end of 2016 with 1700 handwritten A4 pages), reading, traveling and again a large ornamental garden several self-designed artistic garden objects. Around forty poems were written by the end of 2016. He is a member of two choirs, works in large project choirs in Neuwied (Creation / Elias / Paulus). He often fulfills requests for moderation and humorous presentations. In 2017, after an event, “Art in the Gardens” could be read: “In the Toursel garden, visitors encountered a gentleman who was reciting Goethe poems in the shade of trees and bushes next to a monk statue”.

Unger fur import

Web label Pelz- und Modehaus Unger

The first entry for an Erich Unger in the specialist address book was in 1956 for Adersstrasse 49. In the following year, the company was already known as Pelze -Unger at the final address Am Schwanenspiegel, Haroldstrasse, not far away. 32 listed as Pelze-Unger . The Wilh fur store was located in the same place, at least until the war, on Adolf-Hitler-Strasse. Wothge. By 1967 at the latest, Unger traded under the name Unger Pelz-Import , which emphasized the trade , in contrast to its competitors, who were mainly a craft business.

The Unger-Pelz-Import company, with its spacious shop, was near Graf-Adolf-Platz on the edge of the city. The management tried to compensate for this with intensive, price-related advertising. It occasionally came into conflict with its competitors. A picture of a hand was advertised on the facade with the inscription “From first hand”. Competitors successfully prohibited the company from continuing to use this statement. On the grounds that this was an inadmissible exposure, after all, usually no furrier, not even any of the competitors, would sell second-hand furs.

When the company, which was last managed by Ms. Unger, was taken over by master furrier Claus Fritzsche (1957-2018) around 1986 , another argument broke out. Since the company had previously organized a clearance sale due to business closure, the new owner was only allowed to maintain a workshop there for two years without a warehouse sale, according to the regulations at the time.

After giving up the business premises at Am Schwanenspiegel, the Fritzsche couple opened a small shop with a workshop on Felix-Klein-Straße 1 in Düsseldorf-Golzheim. Initially the owner was Claus Fritzsche . At the end of March 2019, Elisabeth Fritzsche , Modeatelier Fritzsche - master studio for fur and leather, closed down after a clearance sale.

Vesterling fur house

Web label Modellfurze Vesterling
Commons : Vesterling Furs  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

The two brothers and master furriers, Fredi Vesterling (born August 25, 1933 in Halberstadt / Harz; † September 14, 2010 in Düsseldorf) and Günter Vesterling founded the Pelzhaus Vesterling KG in June 1958 in the then newly built house at Bismarckstrasse 60. They did not move from there far from that, in 1969 in his own apartment building on Oststrasse 164, almost across from the Horten department store at the time. They displayed stylish, fashionable furs on a shop area of ​​around 80 square meters;

While Günter Vesterling's focus was on workshop work, Fredi was the management. Günter had perfected his specialist knowledge after his apprenticeship in companies in Düsseldorf, Lucerne and Zurich and completed his master craftsman examination in Düsseldorf in 1960.

Fredi Vesterling was the longest serving chief of the furrier guild Düsseldorf. In 1968 he was elected deputy, from 1972 to 2008 he was guild chief, in 1981 he became vice-president of the Central Association of the Furrier Trade. From 1975 specialist lecturer at the master school of the furrier trade in Düsseldorf and member of the master craftsman's examination committee, since 1980 board member of the Düsseldorf health insurance guild. His main focus, closely followed within the German fur industry, was the fight against unfair competition in the fur trade.

In 1971 the brothers stated that they only sold furs from their own production. At the time, they employed an average of eight to ten people. They were among the first Düsseldorf furriers to buy raw materials at international auctions.

After a clearance sale from September 2007, the two master furriers retired. Fredi Vesterling died in September 2010.

Master furrier Ralf Gansen, trained at Vesterling, master's examination in Düsseldorf and atelier master at Slupinski , has been leading the training of future furriers at the vocational school in Fürth since the end of 2019.

Fur-Wolff

Commons : Pelzhaus Wolff, Düsseldorf  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Lid of a muffle box from the fur
store Geschwister Schwenkenberg

The Pelzhaus Wolff can be traced back to the Schwenkenberg family with its founding date October 27, 1806 , who had their business in the old town, Bolkerstraße, in the house "Zum schwarzen Hündchen" - in the roll of honor in the address book of companies older than 25 years, however, the Wolff company was not mentioned in 1929. The offer of swivel Berg was initially mainly from self-manufactured footcovers and haberdashery as sleeve , fur trimming and lining for men's coats, fur coats in the later type were not yet common. Before Christmas 1877, Diedr. Schwenkenberg , now Grabenstrasse 4, has "an extremely rich store of fur goods in all sorts at cheap but fixed prices". Andreas Möller , a cap maker and furrier , traded under the former address of the Wolff company, Mittelstrasse 8, in 1863 .

The later namesake Hubert Wolff comes from a family with a furrier tradition that goes back even further. The company, which was founded in 1782 in Hagen in Westphalia by the master furrier and hat maker JB Wolff as a handcrafted hat-making shop, faced strong competition from machine-working hat factories around 1815. The Wolffs therefore shifted more and more to skinning. In 1881, JB Friedrich Wolff, who had remained childless, bequeathed the business to his nephew Fritz Wolff (9 children) for a discount of 6000 gold marks and an annual rent of 450 gold marks. As one of the first entrepreneurs in Hagen, he received an entry in the local commercial register, as the fur and tobacco shop Fritz Wolff jun. In 1932, Josef P. Wolff (born June 29, 1890), the eldest son of Fritz Wolff (born June 29, 1890), followed.

In 1958 the daughter of Josef P. Wolff and the furrier daughter Christel Wolff married the master furrier Kurt Schleuter (* December 16, 1929 - September 18, 2019) in Hagen . His son, furrier and businessman Jochen Schleuter , his wife Ute Grünewald-Schleuter , and their 8th generation daughter Maya Schleuter, have been running the company in Hagen since then under the name Wolff 1782 , which refers to the year it was founded, as a fashion and fur store. As of 2019 Another related Wolff-Kürschner family had a fur house in Bochum, Harmoniestraße 14. An early postcard shows the Pelz Wolff store there on Bongardstraße.

The two Hubert brothers, Hubert Wolff in Düsseldorf and Anton Wolff in Bochum, went into business for themselves as furriers. In 1920, the master furrier Hubert Wolff took over the Schwenkenberg business and laid the foundation for a modern, elegant fur shop with the H. Wolff fur house. His daughter Emmi , Düsseldorf's first female furrier, stood by his side for twenty years . Hubert Wolff headed the guild as head master from May 19, 1954 until his death on September 10, 1967. Emmi initially continued the company on his own. She later worked in the nephew Werner Wolff and his wife Irmgard, who came from women's clothing, as his successor before she retired from business life in 1969. Apprentice warden Werner Wolff regularly gave vocational school lessons on a part-time basis.

When the Wolff couple retired at the end of 2005, they wrote a letter to their customers who recommended "two experienced colleagues" for the future care of their furs, the Slupinski company on Königsallee and the Kuhn company on Friedrichstraße 25. The two Master furriers Klaus-Peter and Frauke Kuhn started their own business in 1971 on Corneliusstraße in Düsseldorf as Kuhn's fur models , and in 1986 they moved to Friedrichstraße 23. The year before, the future large-scale baker Heiner Kamps had opened his first branch in the same building . The founder of the Kuhn furrier was grandfather Georg Kuhn , whose son Heinz Kuhn and his wife Hildegard continued to run the Berlin company Pelz-Kuhn, which had been registered since 1904 . After Mrs. Kuhn's death, the husband ended his business operations on Albrechtstraße in Berlin-Steglitz at the end of 1984. The business in Düsseldorf was closed due to retirement at the end of March 2010. Since the master furriers had moved their business premises to the neighboring building, the Kamps company has occupied the entire ground floor with its bakery shop after renovations. As of 2019

Others

Commons : Pelz-Matthiessen  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Pelz-Matthiessen , founded by master furrier Theodor Matthiessen as a storey business on September 16, 1926 , had its head office in Heide (Holstein) . The owners acquired their reputation as an outstanding fur designer with a large number of prominent customers with the branch in Westerland on Sylt , which they moved into in 1947 . The second branch on Königsallee 38/40, which opened in Düsseldorf on December 1, 1950, does not seem to have existed for long; in 1955 it is no longer listed in the specialist directory of the branch. The granddaughter Susanne Matthiessen (* 1963) described her childhood experiences on Sylt and in her parents' furrier business in her bestseller “Ozelot und Friesennerz”, which was published in 2020.


Commons : Pelz-Orlob  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Pelz-Orlob was founded in 1889 by Hubert Orlob , a furrier and hat maker , and Mrs. Adele , on Linienstraße 18, in 1950 and still in 1955 Hubert Orlob is listed on Merkurstraße 34. The company existed until 1992 or 1993 in Düsseldorf-Gerresheim, Ellerstrasse 161. The shop of the siblings Paul Heinz (died 1991) and Gerda Orlob (born May 26, 1921, died April 10, 2008) was a curiosity, it must be probably did not correspond to a shop design that was current at the time when it was first set up. There was one or more antlers above the wall mirror, the fur fashion magazines on display were ancient, and on the front of the aged sales counter was a white rabbit with a top hat. The upright, groomed white ferrets above the shelves were also original. Gerda Orlob was able to name them, they once lived in the courtyard behind the shop. There was an enclosure there until the end, which was supplemented by an outlet made of sewage pipes around the backyard on the walls.

In addition to furrier items and the associated services, hats and umbrellas were offered right up to the end.


Georg Krampe (* May 27, 1941; † October 6, 2014) started with a shop on Kölner Straße, house number 280. His father Fritz Krampe not only ran a shop in skins and fur products there, but also a restaurant. Georg Krampe completed his apprenticeship in Düsseldorf at the Herpich fur store , and worked as a journeyman in the Düsseldorf workshops of the Loos , Lefin and Jordan companies (Friedrichstrasse). He had passed his master's examination at the age of only 21 after attending the Hamburg Master’s School , so he was probably the youngest ever Düsseldorf master furrier. Before he started his own business under the name Pelzmoden Krampe in early 1966 , he worked as a cutter and model designer for fur clothing abroad. Initially his focus was on custom-made products and service work, but after he moved out of his parents' house, this changed for a short time to a very small shop on Königstraße, then to Trinkausstraße 1, around 1987. The corner store was between Königsallee and the old town and quickly had mostly walk-in customers. For most of his previous customers, his offer was now too fashionable and too expensive. In December 2008 he gave up his business, probably because of an impending illness, he died in 2014.


Jochen Korth (born January 21, 1942) had his fur salon only a few years on Königsallee. On August 25, 1973, together with his wife Renate , he opened the specialty shop that was supposed to carry “mainly elegant models in the good genre”. The master furrier, son of the well-known Frankfurt tobacco merchant Heinrich Korth (* 1911; † approx. 1995) specialty sable skins , had chosen this exclusive business address for the start of his business. The Stadtsparkasse had erected a new building there, with a passage from Graf-Adolf-Strasse to Bahnstrasse called “Kö-Passage”. However, there was no need for passers-by to use this passage, and the generosity of the other shopping centers was also lacking. Although there was a cinema next to other shops for most of the time, the passage with the shops that were difficult to rent was later dismantled; Korth had previously moved to Lindemannstrasse 15b on Brehmplatz. He then moved his business to the nearby Rethelstrasse 144. After giving up his business, still in his prime, he devoted himself largely to his hobby, the model railroad. In 1991, however, he was registered as a furrier in the fur directory at Heinrich-Biesenbachstraße 23. In 2019 he has been the chairman of a model railway club for a long time; the club's outdoor area with 1,300 meters of tracks from a garden railway on a former railway site near the Unterbacher See can be used by people and is open to the public on certain days.


Commons : Clemens Grosse-Segerath  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Clemens Große-Segerath operated from 1991 to March 1995 with his company at the postal address Königsallee 21, on the so-called "quiet side" of the Kö. In fact, the shop was at the far end of the Trinkaus Center, at the corner of Trinkausstrasse and Heinrich-Heine-Allee, across from Pelzmoden Krampe . His wife was in charge of sales in Düsseldorf; his main business and workshop was in Oberhausen, from where he also ran a fur clothing wholesaler. As a particularly creative furrier, he had a good reputation in the fur industry. His napped men's jackets, vests and coats made of Persian, especially in the brown Persian color “sur”, were particularly successful in the early 1980s . In 2016, at the age of 83, Clemens Große-Segerath announced that Dortmund would go out of business at the end of August.

Furs of Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz during her time in Düsseldorf, 1691 to 1717

Anna Maria Luisa de 'Medici livedas Electress of the Palatinate in central Düsseldorffrom her marriage to Johann Wilhelm von der Pfalz ("Jan Wellem") in 1691 until her return to Florence after the death of her husband in 1717.

Other of the still existing documents of the court keeping of Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz, besides the already mentioned one about fur cleaning and storage by the furrier Johann Welen , name the following fur parts, fur ingredients or fur services, for the Electress or as a gift intended by her, often at the instigation of their valet and body tailor Arnold Rütten :

  • 1 fur hood from hood furrier Johannes Bader .
  • 1 fur lined with sable ; a green velvet fur; 1 ½ lot of gray silk and 1 ½ lot of white and isabel-colored silk, with attached note about use for the fur of the Electress; rose-colored moiré to a fur lined with sable, white to the green velvet fur, to a fur.
  • 1 fur [inner lining] made from 100 Mexican squirrel skins for 8 ½ Reichstaler and 1½ Reichstaler macher's fee plus 1 Reichstaler for the [over] skirt of Johann Wilhelm (Wolon), now known as the “Bundführer” .
  • 1 ermine fur on the wages of 1 ½ Reichstaler, plus a change of 30 alb. [in Cologne there were 80 Albus for a Reichsthaler]. 1 Fuchs - Muff ("Stuch") for Franck from Heidelberg for 12 Sn. [Probably silver groschen ]. Both from the court knitter Johann Vehlen .
  • 1 fur collar for 45 alb.
  • Fur collar and gloves for 40 kr. For Güttig's little daughter.
  • Fur edges on 2 dresses for 12 ¾ Rtl. for Mrs. Steingens and 1 pair of hats (¾ Rtl.). From “Hofbundführer” Johannes Wohlen (Wolon) for Güttig's child 1 white muff (quarter), 1 fur collar (¼ quarter 5 alb.) And 1 pair of fur gloves (20 alb.).
  • According to an order from the “Hofbundsführer”  Johannes Nolon (Nohlen) for the production of 1 muff (“upsetting” [especially a short, narrow muff]) and 1 fur collar for Güdig's daughter (according to the order given by the chamberlain and body tailor Rütten). "Judeligs") (2 Oberländische Gld.) And 1 "Fantanzsche" (1 Oberland Gld.) ".
  • 1 Muscovite bear skin , bought from “Buntfrärs” David Geilmeyer .
  • 2 sets of ermine were cleaned and bleached by the court purveyor Franz David Geilmeier and a set of 32 pieces of ermine, the piece of 32 Sbr. (16 Rtl.) "As well as refreshing the old (3 Rtl.)".
  • 1 fur falbula (24 gold), 1 blue falbula (12 gold), 1 rose-colored (15 gold) and one coffee-colored with silver (25 gold).
  • From the furrier Franz David Geilmeier 1 palatine made of 3 sables (20 parts), 1 peg to it (2 parts 30 Sbr.), 1 pair of velvet gloves (1 part 30 Sbr.), Bleaching of 8 cubits of ermine for the Electress (8 Rtl.) And production of 2 ¼ cubits of new ermine (5 rtl.).
  • From the furrier Franz David Geilmeier 1 pair of white velvet gloves with white English rabbit food for 2 Rtlr. 30 Sbr. (2 rtl. 40 alb.).
  • The furrier Franz David Geilmeier commissioned 1 pair of black velvet gloves with English rabbit fur lining (2 pieces. 30 Sbr.) And wages (15 Sbr.).
  • Furrier Franz David Geilmeier ordered 1 pair of white velvet gloves with white English rabbit food made from 5 rabbits.
  • 6 black foxes (362 Gld. 12 Sbr.) And 2 muffs (6 Gld. 10 Sbr.) By mail wagon.
  • 1 gold-silver chain with fringes for the muff of the little dwarf of the Electress (10 rtl.) And 1 silver ring for the muff (2 ½ rt.).
  • 7 "Zimber" [1 room = 40 pieces] Moscow fine ermine for 98 Rtl. (95 Rtl. 44 Alb.) From the Frankfurt merchant Johann Peter Thiel (en) .
  • 2 pieces of “ handrail ” made from 7 “ Zimer ” ermine, one of them with falcons and tails, the other decorated with black piebalds, for 30 Rtl. Wages, and 1 ermine distemper with Fey [ Fehfell fed], for which purpose the Hermeline were added (6 Rtl.).
  • A remnant of the skin was cleaned (9 Sbr.).
  • Pair of velvet gloves with English rabbit food made from 5 skins (2 Rtl. 30 Sbr.) And macher's fee (15 Sbr.), Made by the court kürschner Franz David Geilmeier .
  • Furs and fur were cleaned (15 gr.)
  • Furs and fur were cleaned (1 part 5 Sbr.) And a bear skin was repaired (1 part 5 Sbr.).
  • 3 rich fur items (45 rtl.), 2 of the same (24 rtl.), 2 muffs (2 rtl.), 1 sash (35 rtl.), 632 ellen chenille (21 rt. 4 sbr.), 1 muff (2 rt .) and other things, paid to the widow Picard (Pickart).
  • From the widow Picard 1 children's hood (5 parts), 1 gray muff (4 parts), 1 fan (1 part 30 Sbr.) And 6 pairs of gloves (1 part 30 Sbr.).
  • Works made to order by Hofkürschner Franz David Geillmeyer , namely feeding 1 night gown with 2 Muscovite lynx skins (10 pieces), 26 pieces of gray Wercks skins (9 pieces) for the sleeves and macher's wages (1 piece 30 Sbr .).
  • From the tailor Matthiaß Zeltz , among other things, wages for 1 fur skirt (1 rtl.).

Data

  • In the period since the founding of the compulsory guilds, as part of the harmonization and restructuring of the craft organizations after the takeover by the National Socialists, from 1934 to 1973, around 170 apprentices from Düsseldorf, Neuss and the surrounding area were trained, probably with a regular three-year apprenticeship period coming. The apprenticeship of the approximately 350 trained fur seamstresses was two years each.

Web links

Commons : Kürschner in Düsseldorf  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Furs on Königsallee  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

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  3. a b c d e f g h i j Chronicle of the Düsseldorf District Craftsmen's Association: 25th furriers' guild . Copy dated August 24, 2006.
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  5. a b c d e Düsseldorf District Craft Association (Hrsg.): 75 years Düsseldorf District Craft Association - The Düsseldorf craft and its organizations through the centuries. 1974, pp. 10-11, 13, 18, 26, 31, 83, 85, 99, 102, 141, 180, 191.
  6. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (Ed.): The cabinet accounts of the Electress Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz (1667–1743) , Volume 1. Klartext Verlag, Essen, 2015, p. 353.
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  8. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (Ed.): The cabinet accounts of Electress Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz (1667–1743) , Volume 1. Klartext Verlag, Essen, 2015, p. 138.
  9. Klaus Müller: Under the Palatinate-Neuburg and Palatinate-Bavarian rule (1614–1806) . In: Düsseldorf - history from the origins to the 20th century . Volume 2, From the royal seat to the official city (1614–1900) . P. 173. Primary source: Küch, Landtag files, p. 172.
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  72. Without an author's name: Hans Strelow died . In: Winckelmann Pelzmarkt No. 588, April 16, 1981, p. 16.
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  197. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (Ed.): The cabinet accounts of the Electress Anna Maria Luisa of the Palatinate (1667–1743) , Volume 2., p. 981 (November 7, 1713).
  198. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (Ed.): The cabinet accounts of the Electress Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz (1667–1743) , Volume 2., p. 1040 (February 28, 1715).
  199. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (Ed.): The cabinet accounts of the Electress Anna Maria Luisa of the Palatinate (1667–1743) , Volume 2., p. 1076 (December 17, 1715).
  200. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (ed.): The cabinet accounts of the Electress Anna Maria Luisa von der Pfalz (1667–1743) , Volume 2., p. 1141 (December 30, 1716).
  201. Jürgen Rainer Wolf (ed.): The cabinet accounts of the Electress Anna Maria Luisa of the Palatinate (1667–1743) , Volume 2., p. 1158 (April 12, 1717).
  202. Handwritten lists: Apprentice directory I. of the furrier guild Düsseldorf from June 1, 1935 ; Trunk role II. Of the fur sewers ; Parent role III. the fur sewers .