Alexander Huber (mountaineer)

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Alexander Huber, Karakoram 2009

Alexander Huber (born December 30, 1968 in Trostberg , Bavaria ) is a German professional mountaineer and extreme climber . He lives in the Berchtesgadener Land.

He and his older brother Thomas Huber made a name for themselves as the " Huberbuam " as extreme climbers. Alexander Huber has been a certified mountain and ski guide since 1992 and a qualified physicist since 1997 . Since then he has devoted himself entirely to extreme alpinism and is now one of the most successful all-round mountaineers worldwide ( mountaineering , alpine climbing , sport climbing , ice climbing , free solo ). The documentary Am Limit (2007), which won the Bavarian Film Prize, observes the brothers in their passion, speed climbing .

Important ventures

  • 1992
  • 1994
  • 1995
  • 1996
    • First ascent of Open Air (XI + / 9a +) at the Schleier Waterfall in Tyrol. The route was originally rated 9a by Alexander Huber. Adam Ondra proposed the rating 9a + as the first repeater of the route. The route would be the world's first confirmed route with this level of difficulty. The first generally recognized route of this degree to date is Route Realization , which was taken in 2001 by Chris Sharma .
  • 1997
    • First ascent of the west face of Latok II , 7,108 meters, in the Karakoram , together with brother Thomas, Toni Gutsch from Munich and Conrad Anker from the United States.
  • 1998
    • Ascent of the 8188 meter high Cho Oyu ( Himalaya )
    • First red point ascent of the El Niño (5.13b) route on El Capitan and thus the first free ascent of the North America Wall .
    • Red point ascent of Free Rider (5.12d) in 15:25 hours and thus the first free ascent of an El Capitan route within one day. Both visits together with his brother Thomas.
  • 2000
    • First ascent of Bellavista (7b / A4) on the north face of the Western Zinne in winter, single-handedly.
    • First ascent of the Golden Gate (5.13a) on El Capitan
  • 2001
    • First red point ascent of Bellavista (8c) on the western pinnacle
    • First ascent of El Corazon (5.13b) on El Capitan
  • 2002
  • 2003
    • First red point ascent by Zodiac (5.13d), El Capitan, with brother Thomas.
  • 2004
    • Free solo ascent of the Communist route (8b +).
    • Speed ​​record on the Zodiac in 1: 51.34, fastest ascent of a big wall on El Capitan
  • 2005
    • First red point ascent of Voie Petit (8b) on the Grand Capucin , the most difficult free climbing route in the Montblanc massif
    • Shooting of the movie Am Limit , director Pepe Danquart. While inspecting possible camera positions, Alexander Huber fell on the so-called Cat Walk of Middle Cathedral Rock after breaking a grip from a height of 17 meters and sustained serious injuries to his ankles.
  • 2006
    • Free solo ascent of the south face (6c) of Dent du Géant , 4013 m, Mont Blanc massif
  • 2007
    • First free ascent of the Baur roof on the western pinnacle with the PanAroma route (8c)
    • Speed ​​record of the route The Nose in 2: 45.45 on October 8, 2007. On October 4, the Huber brothers had already beaten the record of 2: 48.50 set by Hans Florine and Yūji Hirayama in 2002 by 15 seconds.
  • 2008
    • First free solo ascent of the Grand Capucin , Montblanc, the most difficult mountain in the Alps, via the Schweizerführe (6b +) in ascent and descent.
    • First ascent of the west face of Holtanna , first free ascent of Holtanna over the northern edge and third ascent of Ulvetanna in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, together with brother Thomas, Max Reichel and Stephan Siegrist .
  • 2009
    • First red point ascent of Eternal Flame (5.13a) at the Nameless Trango Tower (Karakorum) in summer 2009 together with his brother Thomas, Franz Hinterbrandner and Mario Walder.
  • 2012
    • First red point ascent of Nirvana (8b +) on the Sonnwendwand, Loferer Steinplatte.
    • First free ascent of Bavarian Direct (5.13b) on Mount Asgard , Buffin Island in Canada with Thomas Huber and Mario Walder.
  • 2014
    • First free ascent of the Wetterbockwand (8c, 10 pitches) on Hohen Göll with Michael Althammer on September 18, 2014.
  • 2015
    • Opening of the routes Il Capitano (8b +) and Solemar (8a) on Capo di Monte Santo, Supramonte , Sardinia.
    • First ascent of the west face of Panmah Kangri (6046 m), Karakoram , Pakistan with Mario Walder and Dani Arnold .
  • 2016
    • First red point ascent of the Sueños de Invierno route (540 m, 8a) on the Naranjo de Bulnes with Fabian Buhl in 9 hours.
    • Opening of the Carpe Diem route (5.11a) on the east pillar of the Ritterknecht in East Greenland with Mario Walder, Christian Zenz and Bruno Schneider.
  • 2017
    • Opening of the Swiss nose route (VII + / A4) on the north face of the Matterhorn with Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf.
    • Opening of the route La Grande Rouge (8b) on the Tadrarate, Taghia in the High Atlas in Morocco with Fabian Buhl.
  • 2018
    • Opening of the Wallrunner route (200 m, 8b +) at the elephant belly of the Waidringer Steinplatte .
    • Opening of the route The Big Easy (2200 m, VII + / VIII-) at Choktoi Ri, Karakorum, Pakistan with Fabian Buhl.

Awards

  • 2008: Bavarian Sports Prize in the "Ambassador of Bavarian Sports" category
  • 2010: Bavarian State Medal for his commitment to the association “I want to go up there! eV "(therapeutically accompanied climbing)
  • 2017: Paul Preuss Prize and honorary membership in the International Paul Preuss Society

Works

Movies

  • Climbing to the limit. The Huberbuam . Documentary, 2005, 45 min., Written and directed by Malte Roeper , produced by Bayerisches Fernsehen
  • Am Limit , documentary film, 2007, 95 min., Script and director: Pepe Danquart , production: Hager Moss Film, Lotus Film and Quinte Film GmbH
  • Center of the Universe , documentary, 2004, director: Max Reichel, Timeline Production
  • Ice Age , documentary about the Antarctic expedition, 2009, director: Max Reichel, Timeline Production
  • Eternal Flame , documentary about the expedition to the Nameless Tower, 2010, director: Franz Hinterbrandner, Timeline Production
  • “Bavarian Direct - Adventure at the End of the World”, documentary about the Mount Asgard expedition in Baffin Island, 2012, directed by Franz Hinterbrander & Max Reichel, Timeline Production

Others

  • With the establishment of the AtemWeg Foundation for the Research of Lung Diseases in 2010, Alexander Huber, together with other celebrities, supports the Foundation's activities as an ambassador.
  • Huber has been the patron of Angst-Hilfe e. V. and supporter of the psychiatry crisis service at the kbo-Isar-Amper-Klinikum Atriumhaus in Munich. Huber had an anxiety disorder himself .
  • Alexander Huber supports the association Himalaya-Karakorum-Hilfe e. V. to support school children in the Pakistani Karakoram Mountains

Web links

Commons : Alexander Huber  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Adam Ondra repeats "Om" (9a) by Alexander Huber. (No longer available online.) In: klettern.de. Archived from the original on June 27, 2009 ; Retrieved June 23, 2009 .
  2. ↑ Huberbuam: "Bavarian Direct" film premiere in Munich. In: YouTube . Skiinfo & Bergleben, March 22, 2013, accessed on January 13, 2018 .
  3. ↑ Alexander Huber: Alexander Huber climbs difficult Wetterbock multipitch. In: Planetmountain.com. Mountain Network srl, October 13, 2014, accessed October 21, 2016 .
  4. ↑ Alexander Huber send Il Capitano. Climbing Sardinia, accessed on January 13, 2018 .
  5. ↑ Alexander Huber: "Gamblers have never got far". Deutsche Welle , November 12, 2015, accessed on January 13, 2018 .
  6. ↑ Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free "Sueños de Invierno" (540m, 8a). Climbing.de, October 23, 2016, accessed on January 13, 2018 .
  7. ↑ Team around Alex Huber and Mario Walder: "Carpe Diem" at the "Ritterkencht". Alpin.de, October 10, 2016, accessed on January 13, 2018 .
  8. ^ Ernst Vogt: First ascent by Alexander Huber on the north face of the Matterhorn. (No longer available online.) Bayerischer Rundfunk , April 8, 2017, archived from the original on January 14, 2018 ; accessed on January 13, 2018 .
  9. ↑ Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b + up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria. PlanetMountain.com, January 9, 2019, accessed October 26, 2019 .
  10. ^ Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan. PlanetMountain.com, December 22, 2018, accessed October 26, 2019 .
  11. ↑ Bavarian State Medal for Services to Health for Alexander Huber  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Lebensministerium.bayern.de, accessed on February 12, 2012@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.stmug.bayern.de  
  12. ^ Paul Preuss Prize. International Paul Preuss Society, accessed January 14, 2018 .
  13. ↑ New patron of the fear help eV In: fear help eV (Ed.): The fear magazine . No. 65 , January 2014 ( angstselbsthilfe.de [PDF; accessed June 30, 2016]).
  14. ↑ Alexander Huber. We all experience crises - not just in sports. Psychiatry Crisis Service, accessed June 30, 2016 .
  15. ^ Josef Karg: Interview with Alexander Huber. "Make fear your friend". Augsburger Allgemeine , October 19, 2013, accessed June 30, 2016 .
personal data
SURNAME Huber, Alexander
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German mountaineer
DATE OF BIRTH December 30, 1968
PLACE OF BIRTH Trostberg , Bavaria