History of Pamplona
The checkered history of Pamplona goes back to the time of the Roman Republic and probably goes beyond that. Pamplona , the capital of Navarre , is located on the western Pyrenees and today has a high quality of life.
overview
In the Pamplona basin, which is surrounded by mountains, there were probably settlements in prehistoric times. This is shown by stone tools , whose age is estimated to be 75,000 years. Archaeologists found them on the terraces of the Rio Arga . Today's city is likely to be in the area of a Vasconian settlement, which was presumably built in the first millennium BC. BC originated.
74 BC The Roman city was re-founded by Pompeius as Pompeiopolis in place of a local settlement. While he was still alive, Pompaelo's name was corrupted . The city served to secure the crossing of the Pyrenees from Roncesvalles .
Pamplona has been destroyed several times during its history:
- 466 from the Visigoths ,
- 542 from Franconia ,
- 778 by Charlemagne on his retreat from Zaragoza / Saragossa , because he did not want a fortified city in his back,
- 924 by Abd ar-Rahman III. and finally in years
- 1521 during the French Span. War by troops of Franz I.
Its location on the Camino de Santiago from France gave the capital of the Kingdom of Navarre a boom in the 11th century. With the division of Navarre, the city finally came to Spain.
After the conquest of the country and its incorporation into Castile in 1512-1515, Pamplona became one of the outposts of the Spanish crown on the French border. His mission for 300 years was to secure the border against a possible invasion from France. Fortifications and walls were a vital system of defense, but at the same time prevented the city from expanding. The citadel and the walling gave Pamplona the unmistakable character of a fortress city in the 16th to 18th centuries. The place retained its status as a fortress into the early years of the 20th century.
From 1750 the modernization of the urban infrastructure began. A new town hall , sewers, water supply system, fountains, a neoclassical facade for the cathedral are the most obvious features of an urban awakening that continued during the Napoleonic invasion from 1808 and only ended with the Spanish War of Independence in 1813. Napoleon's troops were the only ones to ever take the citadel without even shedding blood.
During the Carlist Wars (1833, 1872), Pamplona supported the monarchy of Isabella , in contrast to the village-like Navarre, which fought in favor of the aspirant Don Carlos . In the 20th century, the military-based shackles of a building ban fell and the city was able to expand.
Roman time
In the winter of the years 75–74 BC During the war against Sertorius , the site served as a camp for the Roman general Pompey . He is considered to be the founder of Pompaelo , also Pompelo , synonymous in name with Pompeiopolis , which eventually became Pamplona . It is believed that it was the capital of the Vascones - an Iberian tribe from which the present-day Basques arose - which they called Iruña ("the city").
The Roman Pompaelo was located in the province of Hispania Tarraconensis , on the road from Asturica (today's Astorga ) to Burdigala (today's Bordeaux ), and it was a civitas stipendiaria under the jurisdiction of the conventus (court district) of Caesaraugusta (today's Saragossa ). Although Pamplona can hardly be considered one of the eminent cities of Roman Hispania, recent archaeological excavations have revealed a fairly high level of development. In the year 276 the Roman city was destroyed by invading barbarians.
Post roman era
After the fall of the Roman Empire and during the Visigothic Period from the fourth to eighth centuries, the Vascones remained independent, although it is likely that the fortified city of Pamplona was ruled by the Visigoths - possibly only temporarily. It is also known that some Pamplonese bishops appeared at the councils of Toledo . From 409, the Visigoths influenced Pamplona's fate. It was conquered by Franks under Childebert I in 542.
The beginnings of the diocese date back to the fifth century. As a bishopric since the sixth century , Pamplona became the center of Basque Christianization .
During the eighth century, Moors and Franks ruled the city intermittently. The most famous episode of this dark period was the destruction of the city walls, which Charlemagne caused after his failed campaign to Saragossa in 778. He was subsequently defeated in the famous Battle of Roncesvalles . In 781, Abd ar-Rahman I and his army recaptured the city.
Kingdom of Pamplona
Subsequently, noble clans gained enough autonomy to form the Kingdom of Pamplona, whose name was a tribute to the symbolic value of the city, both politically and religiously.
During the late eighth century, Pamplona navigated its territory between two powerful states, but was unable to permanently secure its rule over the Basque region . This change was also reflected in the internal battles of the Basque knighthood. Finally, Iñigo Arista was crowned king in Pamplona in 824 . He ruled Christian Pamplona from 816 to 851.
This kingdom strengthened its independence from the weakened Franconian Empire and the Caliphate of Cordoba . During this period, Pamplona was not really a city, but more of a fortress. In 817, the Basques allied themselves with the Moors against the Franks, which contributed to the overthrow of the Frankish Count Berà in Barcelona .
In 905, King Sancho I. Garcés established the hereditary monarchy of Pamplona, which later became known as the Kingdom of Navarre . The place was the capital of the kingdom. After the destruction under Abd ar-Rahman III. in 924 Pamplona became a town.
For about three hundred years, the real ruler in the capital was not the king, but rather the bishop. This was the result of a gift from Sancho II. Garcés as a token of his gratitude to God in the fight against the Moors. Its content was respected by the subsequent monarchs.
Between 1000 and 1035 the kingdom of Pamplona reached the height of its power under King Sancho the Great ( Sancho el mayor ), "King of all Basques", before it was divided among his sons after the regent's death. In 1076 the kingdom dissolved; Gipuzkoa , Álava and Bizkaia fell to Castile , the heartland of Navarre to Aragon . After the death of the childless Aragonese King Alfonso I in 1134, the kingdom of Navarre became independent again, and Gipuzkoa, Alava and Bizkaia also came under Navarre influence again.
In the middle ages
From the eleventh century onwards, the revitalized economic development of Pamplona's urban life flourished. The city began to grow when the tomb of St. Jacob the Apostle was found in Santiago de Compostela . Believers from all over Europe set out to visit this place and Pamplona, which is on the way, benefited from the flow of pilgrims as a transit station .
The bishops of Pamplona regained their ecclesiastical leadership, while in previous centuries secluded monasteries , particularly the monastery of San Salvador de Leyre , had real influence on religious power. Pilgrims on the Way of St. James to Santiago de Compostela have done much to revive commercial and cultural exchanges with Christian Europe across the Pyrenees.
Pamplona enjoyed a great boom under King Sancho III. el Mayor, whose policy of opening up the country and promoting pilgrimage resulted in the Franconian districts of San Nicolas and San Cernin . In order to promote the settlement, he granted various special rights, the Fueros . The population of long-established Navarre people swelled around French merchants and craftsmen. The newcomers did not move to the Navarrería, but built houses on the terraces over the Rio Arga.
At the end of the 11th century, the Aragonese monarchs of Navarre ( Sancho Ramírez , Pedro I , Alfonso I ) made enormous efforts to recapture and repopulate the country. The arrival of the Franks or so-called "burgueses" (emigrants devoted to trade and arts) meant that the bishopric was no longer just a huge village with a cathedral. Internal tensions developed.
Already before the year 1100 immigrants from the Midi , devout followers of Saint Saturnin of Toulouse , to whom they dedicated their church and the name of the new district, settled west of the old city. San Cernin was born. These residents separated themselves from the long-established Navarre people, and the privileges they received from the king in 1129 further widened the gap between them.
In 1129 Alfonso I recognized the structure as a new settlement "Burgo de San Cernin", whose legal status was different from that of the Navarrería. "Burgo" was derived from the French "bourg" and means "patches" or "settlement". The name, originally only coined for San Cernin, soon became naturalized for the other two communities of old Pamplona and in historiography. In the middle of the 12th century, another settlement center, the San Cernin, neighboring towns of San Nicolás to the south , had already emerged.
Despite the quarrels, the Palace of the Kings of Navarre was built in the time of Sancho VI. el Sabio (1150–1194) built.
The settlement of San Nicolás was founded around a new parish church, populated by new immigrants . The town of Navarrería, where the navarros lived, received its Franconian privilege and the annex of San Miguel in 1189. The nobility, living in Navarrería and supported by the bishop, relied on the alliance with Castile, while those who lived in San Cernin and lived in San Nicolás, preferring the French solution.
The privileges granted to the new settlements sparked the envy of the Basques in Navarrería , the original Pamplona. Relations between the three "Burgos" were permanently strained, the residents took up arms several times and waged war against the others. Each Burgos built walls to defend the place and turned its respective church into a refuge . The most dramatic episode was the destruction of the Navarrería by the other two towns and the massacre of its population on September 3rd, 1276. Hatred did not spare the Romanesque cathedral with its cloister either. The old place was abandoned for almost five decades.
After the death of King Henry I the Fat in July 1274, riots broke out in Navarre. The widow Blanche d'Artois avoided the fighting for regency by fleeing to France. King Philip III commissioned his cousin Robert II d'Artois to restore peace in the neighboring country. Robert besieged and captured Pamplona and restored the authority of the Queen, his sister.
In 1308, King Luis el Hutín built a castle on the east side of today's Plaza del Castillo , a defense center for the city districts surrounded by defensive walls .
The Gothic cathedral Santa Maria La Real with its towers became Pamplona's symbol during the reconstruction. An originally Romanesque building from the 12th century fell victim to the destruction of the Navarrería. The Museum of Navarre keeps preserved remains of the capital. In today's church, the chapel of Saint Jesus Christ dates from this earlier period. The Gothic cathedral began to be built in 1394 and in just under eighty years, in 1472, the building was completed.
King Charles III of Navarre ordered the unification of the cities into a single city on September 8, 1423 with the "Privilegio de la Unión". In it he declared the unity and equality of the citizens. Then the walls between the three settlements were torn down and a new, uniform city wall was built. The building of fortifications within the city was prohibited.
The first town hall ("Casa de la Jurería") was raised at its current location because all three settlements met there.
In 1187 and 1500 relics of the patron saint Firmin were transferred to Pamplona.
Incorporation in Castile and Spain
In 1512, Southern Navarra (also called Obernavarra) was incorporated into the Kingdom of Castile , but remained an autonomous kingdom with its own institutions and laws, first ruled by the respective ruler of Castile and later by the respective king of Spain. North Navarra (also known as Niedernavarra), the historical administrative district "Ultrapuertos", was occupied by France and later incorporated into it.
The annexation occurred at the time of Queen Catherine of Navarre and was rooted in disputes over the throne. Her rule had been challenged by her uncle Johann von Foix , who was Vice Count of Narbonne . But he could not prevail. A war he triggered lasted until 1497 and ended with a peace treaty in favor of Catherine, in which Johann had to give up his claims. He died in 1500. In 1505, Ferdinand II , King of Aragón, married John's daughter Germaine de Foix . After Johann's only son, Gaston de Foix , the Duke of Nemours , died on April 11, 1512 in the Battle of Ravenna , Ferdinand II first left Pamplona (on July 25, through Fadrique Álvarez de Toledo, 2nd Duke of Alba) ) and then occupy all of Obernavarra. Since Pope Julius II sanctioned the usurpation and the Navarre Cortes approved it in 1513, southern Navarra remained Castilian.
After the annexation in 1512, Castile's King Ferdinand the Catholic was recommended by his military advisers to completely renew Pamplona's military infrastructure. On the one hand, the city's fortifications served as a precaution against possible interventions from France, because conflicts with the northern neighbor broke out everywhere. On the other hand, the previous monarchs of Navarre, Katharina and her husband Jean d'Albret , had moved to the neighboring country and tried to regain their former property. A new castle was therefore built in Pamplona at this time.
During the siege in 1521, the Basque officer Íñigo López de Loyola , who was fighting with the Castilian troops, was conspicuous for his relentless perseverance despite the hopeless military situation. During the subsequent bombardment of his bastion , he was seriously injured. During the long recovery period he decided to radically change his life and founded the Society of Jesus . The "Basilica de S. Ignacio" commemorates the place where Ignatius of Loyola was wounded when the place was defended against Henry II , the Count of Foix , in 1521.
During the reign of Charles I , funds were made available for the renewal of the wall ring around the city. It was forbidden to build in a certain area outside the walls.
The citadel in the southwest of the city was rebuilt by order of King Philip II from 1571; the castle from the time of Ferdinand, which stood there before, no longer met the military requirements of that time. Advancement in war technology had led to longer range cannons. Pamplona definitely became a fortress on the edge of the Pyrenees.
The military engineer Giacomo Palearo , known as Fratín , who had also worked on the modernization of Santa Bárbara Castle in Valencia and Santa Cruz Castle in A Coruña , received the contract to build the citadel . The fortress of Antwerp , which the engineer Francesco Paciotto had designed, was the inspiration for the plan . The bastions of the defensive system, which was oriented on a regular pentagon, were named San Felipe el Real, Santa María, Santiago, San Antón and la Victoria. The last two fell victim to the first city expansion in 1888. Another five bezels were later added to the structure. When the construction of the citadel was completed in 1646, King Philip IV visited Pamplona.
In 1651 the development of the Plaza del Castillo began , which extended into the 18th century. The name is reminiscent of the Luis el Hutins castle, which was previously located on its east side. Tournaments and bullfights took place on the central square. In 1405, King Charles III. from Navarre, here a series of lance competitions and tournaments on the occasion of the marriage of his daughter Beatrice to Prince Jacques con Borbón, Comte de la Marche . A bullfighting spectacle is first mentioned in 1385 in the Plaza del Castillo. These competitions were repeated well into the 19th century when a separate bullring was created. The last time a bullfight was presented on the plaza was in 1844.
Improvements have been made continuously within the citadel. For example, in 1694 a powder magazine designed by the engineer Hércules Torelli , an armory, in 1725 an artillery arsenal based on a design by the engineer Jorge Próspero Verboom , the oven, a food store, a wine cellar and bomb-proof vaults designed by Ignacio de Sala to protect the citadel entrance. The structure was designed in such a way that it was never taken by force of arms.
New boom in the 18th century
At the beginning of the 18th century, society in the city was traditionally structured. A large part of the citizens belonged to the aristocracy and the clergy , almost a quarter worked the land and a third of the population were small artisans. There was industrial production in a cloth factory, a paper mill, and a gunpowder factory. From around 1750 Pamplona began to make the city more modern.
A favorable economic situation during this period caused a recovery. Students came to a college, the University of Santiago , which was established in 1619 , where philosophy and theology were taught until 1771 or from 1757 to gain in-depth knowledge of medicine in the main hospital .
During the 18th century, some beautiful palaces were built in the capital of Navarre, such as the "Casa Consistorial" (town hall). Because the old town hall was close to decay, it was demolished and the current building took its place between 1753 and 1759. The building was originally designed by Juan Miguel de Goyeneta ; its facade follows an alternative solution proposed by Jose Zay y Lorda in 1755 . The sculptural jewelry was created by the sculptor José Jiménez.
The neoclassical facade of the cathedral was made to designs by Ventura Rodriguez in 1783.
The water supply and disposal was renewed. From now on, the precious water of Subiza flowed into the city via an aqueduct , designed by the architect Ventura Rodríguez . Sewer pipes were laid and every house was connected to the sewage network. The streets were paved.
From 1788 to 1798 the fountains created by Luis des Paret were also built in the cityscape. The Santa Cecilia Fountain, the Neptune Fountain, the Obelisk Fountain and the Fountain of Abundance, Abundance or Welfare set up in the center on the Plaza del Castillo were intended to remind the citizens of the technical feat of water supply. The fountain on Castillo Square was moved to Taconera Park in 1910, where it still bubbles today as “Mariblanca”.
The citizens began to renovate their houses, the nobility built magnificent baroque palaces. Much was also done in the public and church buildings during this period. The church got involved early on, because the bishop's palace was built between 1734 and 1740.
With the construction ban outside the fortress walls, numerous municipal ordinances tried to create a framework for modernization within the city. Due to the lack of space, spaces were rare, so the so-called “plazoletas” (tiny squares) flourished at the intersections and junctions. The façades of the houses that point in this direction are generally nicer.
In 1777 the first Spanish edition of "Catecismo", the translation of the Roman Catholic Catechism of the Roman Catholic Church , appeared in the city .
In the confusion of the 19th century
The city was not spared from the regional wars of the 19th century. During the Napoleonic Wars , French troops occupied the city in 1808 and stayed in it until 1813.
It was proven in Pamplona in 1808 that you can take a fortress with a snowball fight. Due to the Fontainebleau Agreement , which was aimed at a common campaign against Portugal , French troops moved into Spain. The fortress commander, the Margrave of Vallesantoro, did not let the foreign units into the strategically important citadel. The French camped in front of Pamplona sent people over every day to get the food they needed from the stores there. On February 16, 1808, it had snowed heavily. Some French threw snowballs at the fortress guards. These did not put up with the game, left their posts and started throwing back. In the middle of this game they were suddenly surrounded by many French, who disarmed them and then managed to get into the citadel.
After the Spanish War of Independence , liberal ideas sprouted in politics in Spain and Navarre in particular suffered from the consequences of the dispute over direction. A large part of the kingdom supported the Carlist , who were defenders of absolutism and the regime , which was characterized by old privileges. Pamplona, however, supported the Liberals, although part of the population sympathized with the Carlist cause. Pamplona's active bourgeoisie and civil servants sought space to find their ideas on how to improve on previous privileges. The Madrid government tried to reduce Navarre's fiscal autonomy and a very large demonstration was held in Pamplona in 1839. The monument to the fueros (privileges) was erected as a symbol of the reluctant spirit. In 1841 Navarre was finally integrated into the Spanish state through the Ley Paccionada , whereupon the Fueros were finally abandoned, in return for the extensive fiscal autonomy of the Basque Country .
In the same year Leopoldo O'Donnell instigated an uprising in favor of the abdicated Queen Maria Christina , but it was brought to a halt by the forces loyal to the Madrid government, Baldomero Espartero .
In 1845 Queen Isabella II stayed in Pamplona for a few days with her court and stayed in the Guendulain Palace, which belonged to a noble family that had become wealthy in America.
In 1875 the place was besieged unsuccessfully by the Carlist. All Spanish rulers always endeavored to keep Pamplona's fortifications up to date. The last was in the 19th century under Alfonso XII. a fortress on the nearby Mount San Cristóbal .
At the Plaza del Castillo, the city's entertainment and leisure area that has been common since the 14th century, cafes gradually opened , for example Café Iruñea in 1888. In the same year, after difficult persuasion with military authorities, the city of Pamplona was able to carry out its first expansion, still within the city walls and on territory belonging to the military. The San Antón and La Victoria bastions as well as the Santa Teresa ski jump were razed and the area that was freed up was built on.
The best local architects were commissioned to construct the I Ensanche (literally "extension one") and they designed contemporary projects for the area. However, the city remained completely walled until 1915, the year some of its walls were destroyed.
Recent history
The development of military technology during World War I convinced the Spanish government that the ramparts and fort of Pamplona were outdated. The southern city walls were demolished and the II Ensanche (second extension) was planned. Their plan followed the model designed by Ildefons Cerdà for Barcelona . Its blocks were erected between the 1920s and 1950s. Five to eight-story residential complexes predominated.
The Spanish Civil War began in Spanish Morocco on July 17, 1936 with the military coup. In Pamplona, with the support of Carlist forces, the putschists quickly succeeded in usurping state power. On the evening of July 18, the commander of the Civil Guard in Navarre , Jose Medel Rodriguez-Briones , who was loyal to the Spanish government , was murdered by one of his subordinates. The putschists also liquidated the local commander of the civil guard, Major Rodriguez Mendel, and the mayor of Estella , Fortunato de Aguirre Luguin . On the day of the coup, Carlist peasants flocked to the main town square to volunteer. A total of 1200 requetés from Pamplona then moved to Saragossa . Later another unit of 3,500 men left Pamplona to cut off the Basque Country from France at Irun . In the Navarre region, the nationalists liquidated large numbers of Republicans. According to Heleno Saña , their number is equal to the number of male votes the Popular Front received in the 1936 elections.
In the 1950s and 1970s, new neighborhoods were added, such as San Juan, Iturrama and Ermitagaña. The city was connected to the air transport network in 1973. Air traffic takes place via Noáin Airport.
The traditional celebration of the Sanfermines attracts international audiences every year, to which Ernest Hemingway contributed with his stories. The bull run through the streets of the city into the bullring challenges the brave.
Social facilities, education and health systems, the concern for a favorable mix of areas for leisure and economic activity and the communication network have been the focus of the city administration in recent times.
The city is home to two universities, the private Universidad de Navarra , founded in 1952 by Josemaría Escrivá de Balaguer and an institution of Opus Dei , and the state Universidad Pública de Navarra , created by the Government of Navarra in 1987. There is also a local one Branch of UNED (Universidad Nacional de Educación a Distancia), the Spanish distance learning university.
literature
- Andreas Drouve: Pamplona: City of the Sanfermines . Moers, 1994. ISBN 3-89535-008-7
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Claudius Ptolemy ii. 6. Section 67; Strabo III. P. 161
- ^ Antonine Itinerary p. 455
- ↑ Pliny the Elder III. 3. s. 4th
- ↑ http://www.hotelespamplona.com/aleman/rutas_pamplona/medieval.htm
- ↑ http://www.hotelespamplona.com/aleman/rutas_pamplona/pamplona.htm
- ↑ http://www.hotelespamplona.com/aleman/rutas_pamplona/pamplona.htm
- ↑ http://www.hotelespamplona.com/aleman/rutas_pamplona/la_ilustracion.htm
- ↑ http://www.hotelespamplona.com/aleman/rutas_pamplona/plaza_fuerte.htm
- ^ Hugh Thomas : The Spanish Civil War, Ullstein Verlag, Berlin West 1962, page 190.
- ^ Antony Beevor, The Spanish Civil War, 2nd edition, ISBN 978-3-442-15492-0 , page 153.
- ↑ Heleno Saña : The Libertarian Revolution (The Anarchists in the Spanish Civil War), ISBN 3-89401-378-8 , 1st edition, page 55.