Coffee shop
The café ( French for “ coffee ”, here short for cabaret de café , coffee house , coffee tavern ) was originally a restaurant in which mainly hot coffee is offered as a drink. The coffee house tradition, which was a driving force behind the worldwide spread of coffee consumption, has been preserved above all in Vienna (as a Viennese coffee house ), Prague and Budapest . The owner of a coffee house used to be called a coffee maker .
history
The first coffee houses in various cities:
- Cairo , Damascus and Aleppo
- 1554 Constantinople
- Alexandria
- 1647 Venice
- 1650 Oxford
- 1652 London
- 1663 Amsterdam
- 1671 Marseille
- 1672 Paris
- 1673 Bremen
- 1677 Hamburg
- 1685 Vienna
- 1686 Nuremberg
- 1686 Regensburg
- 1694 Leipzig
- 1697 Würzburg
- 1700 Munich
- 1705 Prague
- 1718 Erlangen
- 1721 Berlin
The first coffee houses emerged from Arab institutions and arose in the Ottoman Empire , especially in Cairo, Damascus and Aleppo, the metropolises of Egypt, Syria and Iraq. With the opening of the first coffee house in the Ottoman capital Constantinople in 1554, this institution reached the European continent for the first time. At the trading centers of the Levant , more coffee bars were founded.
In Western Europe, the first café (a forerunner of Alla Venezia Trionfante , later called Caffè Florian ) was founded in Venice under the arcades of St. Mark's Square , as merchants in Constantinople and Alexandria had found such establishments to be very pleasant. 1650 was followed by an account opened by a Syrian Jew named Jacob coffee house in the English Oxford and in 1652 another café was founded in London under the name "Virginia Coffee-House". In the following years they spread particularly around the stock exchange , the London Stock Exchange , and served as a meeting place for stockbrokers and business people.
The coffee houses soon reached other important cities such as Marseille and Paris, where the Armenians are said to have built a public coffee house for the first time in 1672. The first coffee shop in the German-speaking area was built in Bremen in 1673, where exactly is not documented. It could have been in the Schütting or one of the surrounding houses on the market square.
In Vienna, an Armenian named Johannes Theodat (also Johannes Diodato, Owanes Astouatzatur) opened the city's first coffee house in 1685. The rumor continues that Georg Franz Kolschitzky tried to get sacks of coffee beans left by the Turks after the second Turkish siege in order to open a coffee house. In 1700 there were already four Greeks who had received the privilege of "serving cafes in public"
The first coffee house in southern Germany was built in the summer of 1686 in Nuremberg in the “Haus zum Frosch” on the former Fünferplatz 6. The founders were the innkeeper Conrad Stör from the “Goldenen Ochsen” and the confectioner Georg Albrecht. Tea, coffee and chocolate were served . On August 8, 1696, the company and the liquor license became the property of the “coffee keeper” Störs, who also owned the “Haus zum Frosch”. By the decree of August 29, 1718 had the right to be the sole "Maitre au Caffé" to be the city in Erlangen Jean Trinques (obtained in summer 1730 was then the, living as Trinques in Christian-Erlangen, Peruquier André Grenard a concession for serving beer, wine, liqueur, tea, chocolate and coffee).
The " Café Prinzess " opened in Regensburg in 1686 still exists today.
The oldest coffee houses still in existence today are supposedly the “ Café Procope ” in Paris , which opened in 1686, and the “ Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum ” café in Leipzig, where coffee has been served since 1711.
In 1697 founded prey Turk Mehmet Sadullah Pasha, baptized on June 24, 1695 in the name of Johann Ernst Nicolauß Strauss, a coffee house in Würzburg. This first coffee house in Würzburg was approved on March 23, 1697.
Jürgen Habermas , among others, emphasizes in his work Structural Change of the Public the function of the coffee houses as an important area of the public sphere through which a bourgeois public could establish itself.
But not only the business people had their coffee houses, there were also regular cafés for writers (such as the famous " Will's ", where John Dryden held court, Alexander Pope also frequented here, or the "Smyrna", which Jonathan Swift and Daniel Defoe belong to Guests counted), for scholars (" The Grecian "), lawyers and players. A characteristic of coffee house societies was the overcoming of class arrogance - simple people and nobles sat together at the same table and talked about the world situation in general and their businesses in particular.
The coffee house is also the origin of the postal service ("Penny Post"), the first post boxes were set up in his regular café. The first insurance went back to a business idea of the London coffee house Lloyd’s , founded by Edward Lloyd in 1688 as Lloyd's Coffee House in Lombard Street, where merchants and insurance agents from the shipping industry met and tried to minimize their risks by taking their shiploads from the Insured colonies against average. The cafes are just as important in terms of the development of the newspaper. The Tatler (edited by Daniel Reed until 1711), the Spectator ( Joseph Addison and Reed, the editors were in the " Button's Coffee-house "), later other gazettes appeared daily and combined reports on politics, economy, culture and society in a very similar way, as is still the case today.
Coffee gradually replaced the alcoholic beverages that had been common up until the 18th century, but beer soup was still the common breakfast food and beer was a drink that was consumed throughout the day. The replacement by coffee also meant that the constant light high, to which one had become accustomed for centuries, was replaced by a feeling of alert, concentrated sobriety (the "sober high," as Voltaire called him, who himself was an avowed coffee drinker was). But the coffee was not only met with approval: residents complained about the "smell" of the roasted coffee (in fact, the vapors produced when roasting coffee have nothing of the fragrance of the product), and a group of London women wrote an angry pamphlet against coffee consumption - apparently mandatory Owing mainly to the fact that her husbands spent most of the day in the coffee house, while even admission, if it wasn't denied, was at least chalked up as damage to their reputation.
There were also bans on coffee houses and coffee consumption. There were various reasons for the bans: mistrust of the rulers towards the political activities of the coffeehouse visitors, action against a spreading passion for gambling, prevention of the provision of sexual services in some houses and the feared loss of income elsewhere (e.g. in the brewing trade). In England, King Charles II (died 1685) issued a ban on all coffee houses for the first time, but it was lifted after violent protests and a few days. The first absolute coffee ban lasted for a long time in Sweden in 1756. For example, the Duchy of Braunschweig also pursued a policy of prohibition in 1764 , the Kingdom of Prussia in 1777 (using so-called coffee books ) and in 1780 the Electorate of Hanover . Towards the end of the 18th century, the prohibition policy against coffee ebbed. Instead, the state levied duties and taxes and earned money from coffee house concessions and from the coffee trade.
Occasionally cafes also played a political role, for example in France as a meeting place during the French Revolution (1789–1799). Coffee houses used in this way in Paris were, for example, the Café de Foy , the Café Hottot and the Café Corazza .
In France, through the differentiation of the bourgeoisie , the so-called café concerts (also called caf 'conc' ) became a new form of entertainment for the middle and petty bourgeoisie, which ultimately mutated into burlesque vaudeville bars . Cafés concerts were not only entertainment for the middle and lower classes, but were also considered subversive, because in them petty bourgeois and proletarians could vent their hearts instead of just forgetting their social misery. The café concerts were usually elongated, rectangular halls with a relatively high stage, so no cafés in the usual sense and no concert halls, but rather folk variety shows with catering. The performances were free of charge, because the main sales came from food and drinks. The first café concerts appeared in Lyon and Marseille at the beginning of the 19th century and were very successful. They quickly spread across the country - there were 200 of them in Paris in 1850, where their programs were dominated by erotic dances (e.g. cancan , chahut and quadrille naturaliste ) and singing. In addition to the satirical , the crude-comic and, above all, drastic-erotic - underlined with ambiguous gestures - song developed. Amateurs stood on the stage and the prudent hosts even organized appropriate competitions, which of course increased their sales. Of course, acrobats , facial expressions and other artists also performed here on an equal footing, but in fewer numbers .
The coffee houses deserve special credit for popularizing knowledge and combining hospitality with educational benefits. With the invention of the newspaper and the establishment of the post office, they are the cradle of today's print media. The possibility of public, more or less scholarly discourse emerged from the courtly circles, which until then had exclusively cultivated it, and became possible for citizens too. This also includes the creation of a neutral public place that could function as a meeting point (see also Button's Coffee-house ). Without these prerequisites, neither the Biedermeier reading mania nor the newly emerging letter culture are conceivable. The coffee houses also provided the impetus for the reading societies of the 18th and 19th centuries, which dedicated themselves to the promotion of virtue and taste, such as the "Society of the Mahlers" by Johann Jakob Bodmer in Zurich, who was also influenced by Spectator and Tatler , regularly published the "Discourse der Mahlern". These reading societies replaced the English clubs in Germany, just like those with a fixed group of visitors, but aimed exclusively at serious discussion. In Austria, on the other hand, reading cabinets were created, which were mostly worn by booksellers and emerged from the book cabinets within the coffee houses.
The coffee houses were also a place where (as was already common in the oriental coffee houses) games were practiced, especially chess . There were often permanent professionals who played against the visitors for a stake, but the visitors were also free to play against each other. One of the most important coffee houses for the game of chess was the Café de la Régence in the 17th to 19th centuries , which became the center of the chess world. Historical personalities interested in chess from politics, philosophy and culture, such as the US founding father Benjamin Franklin , whose treatise The Morality of the Chess Game is part of the classical legacy of chess literature , were to be found there for a while. Because of this tradition, the term coffee house player has been preserved for chess players who practice a risky style. In the 18th century, billiards , formerly reserved for the nobility, were added.
After all, the coffee houses in the Ottoman Empire increasingly oriented themselves towards European models such as the famous Parisian houses Luxembourg , Couronne and Concorde . As a purely Turkish development, however, the “newspaper cafes” (Kıraathâne) were added, the first of which opened in 1857 at Divanyolu , but which soon became known as “gambling dens”.
Coffee houses today
Today, coffee houses in Germany have largely lost their traditional social significance; they only serve as a pure catering business. In contrast to Austria , people hardly play, read or debate anymore. The term coffee house has only survived in Austria, in Germany and Switzerland almost exclusively café is used .
Typical for today's cafés are small tables (in Austria and some other successor states of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, tables with marble tops without a tablecloth), dainty chairs, newspaper reading, drinks (now much more than just coffee), in any case cakes and pies and z. T. simple meals. The reason for visiting is to spend free time in a pleasant atmosphere, alone or in company. The boundary between a pub , a bistro or a restaurant is fluid.
Modern cafés are often designed as lounges and are often branches of a retail chain . Typical of such cafés are the relaxed atmosphere (e.g. subtle background music, living room environment and dimmed light), opening times until late in the evening, often internet access and the similar offerings in the individual branches. The term café bar is also not uncommon - a combination of café and bar .
Standing cafes are mostly attached to bakery sales points. Here, coffee is served to walk-in customers (self-service) so that they can drink it standing up, especially at the high tables provided.
Street cafes have tables and chairs placed outside the door. When the weather is nice, guests can have their coffee outdoors in the fresh air and soak up the sun. ("Outside only jug")
See also
literature
- The Character of a Coffee-House (1673) and Vindicated Coffee-Houses. (1675) In: Charles W. Colby (ed.): Selections from the Sources of English History, BC 55 - AD 1832. Longmans, Green, London 1920, pp. 208-212 ( full text ).
- Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. In: Wolfgang Protzner, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn (Ed.): Culina Franconia. (= Contributions to economic and social history. Volume 109). Franz Steiner, Stuttgart 2007, ISBN 978-3-515-09001-8 , pp. 245-264.
- Ulla Heise : coffee and coffee house. A bean makes cultural history. Komet, Cologne 1996 and 2005. ISBN 978-3-89836-453-9 .
- Ulrich Im Hof : The sociable century. Society and Societies in the Age of Enlightenment. Beck, Munich 1982, ISBN 3-406-08708-6 .
- Bryant Lillywhite: London coffee houses. A reference book of coffee houses in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Allen & Unwin, London 1963.
- Thomas Babington Macaulay : The history of England. London 1849 (Volume 1, Chapter 3, p. 363).
- Annerose Menninger: Enjoyment in the face of cultural change. Tobacco, Coffee, Tea and Chocolate in Europe (16th – 19th Centuries). Stuttgart 2004, passim.
- Jürgen Schneider : Production, trade and consumption of coffee (15th to the end of the 18th century). In: Hans Pohl (Ed.): The European Discovery of the World and its Economic Effects on Pre-Industrial Society, 1500–1800. Stuttgart 1990, pp. 122-137.
- Klaus Thiele-Dohrmann: European coffee house culture. Piper, Munich 1999, ISBN 3-492-22582-9 .
- Rauf Ceylan : Ethnic Colonies. Origin, function and change using the example of Turkish mosques and cafes. Publishing house for social sciences, Wiesbaden 2006.
- Stefanie Proske (Ed.): Coffee house breviary. Edition Büchergilde, Frankfurt 2009, ISBN 978-3-940111-62-3 .
- Petra Neumann (ed.): Vienna and its coffee houses. Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, Munich 1997, ISBN 3-453-12395-6 .
Web links
- François de Capitani: cafes. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland .
- Coffee houses
- Kulturtussi.de: Essays on the coffee house ( Memento from May 16, 2007 in the Internet Archive )
Individual evidence
- ↑ Duden .
- ↑ On Berlin cf. Peter Lummel (Ed.): Coffee. From smuggled goods to lifestyle classics. Three centuries of Berlin coffee house culture. Berlin 2002.
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. 2007, p. 249.
- ↑ Horst Hanisch: The small drinking culture and beverage etiquette. 4th edition, Books on Demand, Norderstedt 2019, ISBN 978-3-7481-4974-3 , p. 63.
- ^ Jürgen Schneider: Production, trade and consumption of coffee (15th to the end of the 18th century). 1990, p. 129.
- ^ Jürgen Schneider: Production, trade and consumption of coffee (15th to the end of the 18th century). 1990, p. 129.
- ^ Ignaz Denzinger: First coffee bar in Würzburg. In: Archives of the Historical Association of Lower Franconia and Aschaffenburg. Volume 9, Issue 2, 1847, p. 161 f.
- ^ Teply, Karl: The introduction of coffee in Vienna , Association for the History of the City of Vienna, Vienna 1980, vol. 6, p. 104, quoted in. after: Seibel, Anna Maria: The importance of the Greeks for the economic and cultural life in Vienna. P. 94.
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. In: Wolfgang Protzner, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn (Ed.): Culina Franconia. (= Contributions to economic and social history. 109). Franz Steiner, Stuttgart 2007, ISBN 978-3-515-09001-8 , pp. 245-264, here: pp. 254 and 257-260.
- ↑ The Turkish prisoners in Würzburg also brought coffee to the Germans (PDF)
- ^ Ignaz Denzinger: First coffee bar in Würzburg. In: Archives of the Historical Association of Lower Franconia and Aschaffenburg. Volume 9, Issue 2, 1847, p. 161 f.
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. In: Wolfgang Protzner, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn (Ed.): Culina Franconia. (= Contributions to economic and social history. 109). Franz Steiner, Stuttgart 2007, ISBN 978-3-515-09001-8 , pp. 245–264, here: pp. 253–256 ( The first coffee house in Würzburg ).
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. 2007, p. 250.
- ^ Annerose Menninger: Enjoyment in cultural change. Tobacco, Coffee, Tea and Chocolate in Europe (16th – 19th Centuries). Stuttgart 2004, p. 384 ff.
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. 2007, pp. 251-253.
- ^ Peter Albrecht: Drinking coffee as a symbol of social change in Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries. In: Roman Sandgruber , Harry Kühnel (Ed.): Enjoyment & Art. Coffee, tea, chocolate, tobacco, cola. Innsbruck 1994, pp. 28-39, here: p. 34.
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. 2007, p. 249 f.
- ↑ Viviane Deak, Yvonne Grimm, Christiane Köglmaier-Horn, Frank-Michael Schäfer, Wolfgang Protzner: The first coffee houses in Würzburg, Nuremberg and Erlangen. 2007, pp. 245, 250 f. and 255 f.