Great north faces of the Alps

The great north faces of the Alps (also known as classic north faces or the last problems of the alps ) are a group of three or six north faces of alpine mountains, which are characterized by their particular size, difficulty or danger for mountaineers . These are the north faces of the Eiger , Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn ; In the extended group of the "six great north faces of the Alps", these are also the north faces of Petit Dru , Piz Badile and the Große Zinne .

Fritz Kasparek , one of the four first climbers of the Eiger north face, was the first to use the term “three big wall problems” in 1938. His companion at the time, Anderl Heckmair , took up this terminology eleven years later when he titled his book, published in 1949, “The three last problems of the Alps”.

"Anyone who can safely climb such a wall must feel elevated above all human trifles."

- Anderl Heckmair, first to climb the Eiger north face

Location of the north walls

On the concept of the "great north walls"

Meaning of the term "north face"

The term “north face” is mostly associated with dark, icy, steep mountain faces: here the Schrammacher north face.

The term “north face” is associated with particular mountaineering difficulties and dangers among alpinists, whereas east, south or west faces are easier to climb. The north walls of high mountains in the northern hemisphere are generally more icy and more difficult than other walls due to their shady location.

In some cases, the east-facing orientation of a rock face is also emphasized, for example due to its property that climbers in an east face do not recognize bad weather fronts approaching from the west at an early stage; West walls also play a role because of their exposure to weather.

In the alpine sense, the north face concept stands for the really big and challenging routes, but also for cold and danger. For this reason, the Eiger north face was also named Mordwand due to the numerous fatal attempts to climb it , which clearly relates to the danger to life.

Reason for attribution to the great north walls

First and foremost, alpine and historical reasons lead to the attribution of a north face to the “great north faces” of the Alps , the absolute wall height is less important. The term "large north face" is not synonymous with "high north face". While many high north faces can be found in the Alps, only three to six north faces are counted among the "great north faces". For example, the north face of Triglav in the Julian Alps is one of the highest alpine walls with a wall height of 1500 m. Because of its comparatively low level of difficulty, however, it is not referred to as the “great north face”. Some of the “great north faces” are, strictly speaking, not north faces, but north-west (for example Eiger ) or north-east ( Piz Badile ) walls . These walls are referred to as north walls because this is linguistically more handy and enables a uniform group designation better.

Hazards and deaths

The best known and most dangerous of the large north faces because of falling rocks and frequent sudden falls of weather is the Eiger north face. 51 climbers have already died there. On other alpine faces, such as the Watzmann- Ostwand, considerably more mountaineers had fatal accidents (100 deaths there by July 2010); The reasons for this, however, are less the great difficulties and dangers of the wall, but rather the comparatively higher number of climbers who are often not sufficiently prepared. Since the immense demands of the great north faces are well known, inexperienced mountaineers try them comparatively rarely. Therefore, the absolute number of accidents is lower compared to more frequented destinations.

The most difficult and steepest in terms of climbing technology is the Große-Zinne-Nordwand, but this is pure rock climbing. Furthermore, it is the only one where the summit is below 3000 m altitude and where - also due to its location in South Tyrol - there is less risk of weather and temperature drops and a generally serious, high-alpine character than with the others large walls.

Historical overview

Before 1930

In the 1920s, pure rock faces like the Civetta north-west face were the focus of top alpinism. The time was not yet ripe for the large, frozen north faces.

When the Matterhorn was climbed for the first time in 1865 , the first great era of modern alpinism came to an end. The mountain, which was believed to be impossible to climb, had been climbed, and although several of the first climbers were killed on the descent, the realization spread: the impossible had become possible and it was only a matter of time before even more difficult and “impossible” undertakings followed would. By 1870 almost all known and noteworthy peaks in the Alps had been climbed, only with a few minor, inaccessible or particularly difficult rock spikes it took until the turn of the century to be climbed for the first time. The leading mountaineers of the time were now looking for new challenges: After the peaks, the focus soon turned to the large wall ranges of the Alps, which had not yet been climbed. The first large walls to be climbed were the Monte Rosa east face in 1872 and the Watzmann east face in 1881 . These were two of the largest Alpine walls, but they were relatively easy to climb in terms of climbing technology. Most of the other large walls in the Alps were climbed over the next few decades. Conquering the “great north faces” was initially impossible.

In the 1920s, when rock climbing and, in some cases, also ice climbing, had reached high levels of difficulty and huge walls such as the Laliderer North Face and the Civetta Northwest Face had been climbed, the scene's attention increasingly turned to those few faces in the Alps that were still there no ascent had been wrested. Only a handful of these unclimbed wall lines, where the difficulties seemed to be greater than elsewhere, were left in the early 1930s. Most of these were north walls.

The first ascent of the walls

The cross passage on the north face of the Eiger, named after the German mountaineer Andreas Hinterstoißer . When he attempted to climb the first time in 1936, Hinterstoißer was the first to master this passage, and the onset of bad weather later forced his team to retreat. Since the rope team had not left a safety rope here, this first attempt at ascent ended in disaster. All participants of the rope team died in the north face.

Above all, the still unclimbed north faces of the Eiger , Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn were the focus of interest because of their dimensions and fame. Due to the nimbus of danger and courage to death, which now developed through numerous unsuccessful attempts at the first ascent , the conquering of these walls became a matter of outstanding prestige. If successful, a mountaineer could gain international prestige and be considered a top mountaineer. The ascent of only one of these walls, especially the first ascent, was a feverishly pursued goal to which some mountaineers fell victim to various causes such as inadequate equipment or sudden weather changes.

In 1931 the north face of the Matterhorn could be climbed for the first time as the first of the “last three problems of the Alps”. In 1932, the Schmid brothers were awarded the Olympic gold medal, the Prix olympique d'alpinisme , for this achievement . The brothers had come from Munich by bike for the ascent. Toni Schmid did not live to see the award, however, as he had had a fatal accident shortly before on the north face of the Wiesbachhorn . The Grandes Jorasses north face followed in 1935, the most challenging combined (ice and rock) face of the large north faces in terms of climbing. The first ascent was via the Croz pillar; later the route over the Walkerpfeiler, which was opened in 1938, established itself as the classic route through this wall.

All that remained was the Eigerwand, which was consequently referred to as the “last problem of the Alps”. After several failed attempts and fatal accidents, it was not successfully climbed until 1938 by a German-Austrian team of four ( Anderl Heckmair , Heinrich Harrer , Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vörg ).

The attempts at ascent of the 1930s were seen as "fateful ventures of national importance" and were followed by a large audience. In the end, they also acquired a political dimension, as the Nazi regime appropriated the mountaineering success on the Eiger for propaganda purposes: Adolf Hitler celebrated the pioneering act of his compatriots "as testimony to the indomitable will to win of the German youth" and personally greeted the four mountaineers with the words "Children, what have you done! " . To this day it is controversial to what extent Heinrich Harrer's written statement "We climbed the Eiger north face beyond the summit to our Führer!", His membership in the NSDAP and SS and the willing appearance of Anderl Heckmair (who was never a NSDAP member) together with Hitler reflected a convinced conviction or just political opportunism and followerism.

1940s to 1960s

Walter Bonatti's winter solo ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn (see picture, right wall) in 1965 was one of the greatest alpine achievements of the 1960s and at the same time his last major tour.

Especially in the time frame between the 1930s and the 1960s, the history of climbing the great north faces is a reflection of the history of alpinism itself: On the normal route , all the peaks were already climbed; climbing, however, was not yet so advanced that only walls and degrees of difficulty without a summit would have been sought. The summit in combination with a large, terrifying wall was the mountaineering ideal of that time, and accordingly almost all the top mountaineers of the time ( Gaston Rébuffat , Hermann Buhl , Kurt Diemberger and many other). After having climbed all the major north faces with the Eiger north face since 1938, mountaineers now started trying to make the first winter ascents or to climb all the great north faces. In 1952 Gaston Rébuffat achieved the goal of climbing all six great north faces of the Alps. Since the 1960s, several other extreme mountaineers have set themselves the goal of climbing several large north faces, mostly the "big three", within just one season. As the level of top alpinism has continued to rise since that time and better equipment and more advanced training methods increased the chances of success, increasingly difficult, often as direct as possible lines ( “direttissime” ) were now laid through the large walls. These too were soon climbed in winter.

Since 1970

After all, in the 1970s and 1980s, temporary individual ascents, especially in the north face of the Eiger, attracted top mountaineers. After that, interest in single ascents of the great north faces on their normal routes gradually decreased; instead, individual outstanding alpinists declared the enchaînement of north face climbs to be their goal. The Scottish mountaineer Alison Hargreaves achieved an outstanding performance, climbing all six great north faces of the Alps within one season, always climbing alone and in total in less than 24 hours. She also climbed the north face of the Eiger in 1988 when she was six months pregnant with her son. In the recent past, the Swiss extreme mountaineer Ueli Steck made a name for himself by climbing the north faces of the Eiger, Grandes Jorasses and Matterhorn from February 2008 to January 2009, all solo and in times that were previously not thought possible. For all three walls he only needed 7 hours and 5 minutes.

Today, no top mountaineer adorns himself with climbing a large north face on the normal route , unless he conquers it in an exceptionally short time. Even the north face of the Eiger has now lost its nimbus in mountaineering circles. If anything, the large north faces are primarily of interest to exceptional alpinists today as preparation tours for more difficult ventures, for example in the Himalayas , for the first ascent of new, even more extreme sport climbing or mixed routes, or, as with Ueli Steck, for temporary climbing.

The great north walls in detail

The "big three"

North face	Wall height	Summit height	First slope	First climber	1. Winter ascent	1. Solo ascent	1. Winter solo	Fastest ascent
Eiger	1800 m	3967 m	1938	Heinrich Harrer , Anderl Heckmair , Fritz Kasparek , Ludwig Vörg	1961 Toni Hiebeler , Toni Kinshofer , Walter Almberger , Anderl Mannhardt	1963 Michel Darbellay	1978 Tsuneo Hasegawa and Ivano Ghirardini (one day later)	2015 Ueli Steck (2h 23m)
Grandes Jorasses	1200 m	4208 m	1935 Croz pillar ( C) 1938 Walker pillar (W)	C: Martin Meier, Rudolf Peters; W: Ricardo Cassin, Luigi Esposito, Ugo Tizzoni	W: 1963 Walter Bonatti , Cosimo Zappelli	W: 1968 Alessandro Gogna	W: 1979 Tsuneo Hasegawa (according to another source: Andy Parkin)	2018 Dani Arnold (2h 04m)
Matterhorn	1200 m	4478 m	1931	F. Schmid , T. Schmid	1962 Hilti von Almen, Paul Etter	1959 Dieter Marchart	1965 Walter Bonatti	2015 Dani Arnold (1h 46m)

Extended group

North face	Wall height	Summit height	First slope	First climber	1. Winter ascent	1. Solo ascent	1. Winter solo
Petit Dru	700 m	3733 m	1935	Pierre Allain, Raymond Leininger	1964 George Payot, Yvon Masino, Gérard Devouassoux	1955 Walter Bonatti	?
Piz Badile	800 m	3308 m	1937	Riccardo Cassin , Vittorio Ratti, Gino Esposito, Mario Molteni †, Giuseppe Valsecchi †	1967 Michel Darbellay, Camille Bournisse, Paolo Armando, Gianni Calcagno, Daniel Troillet, Alessandro Gogna	1952 Hermann Buhl	2006 Fabio Valsechini
Great pinnacle	550 m	2999 m	1933	Emilio Comici , Angelo Dimai, Giuseppe Dimai	1938 Fritz Kasparek , Sepp Brunnhuber	1937 Emilio Comici	?

Special alpine achievements

Apart from the first ascents, which can be read from the tables above, it was mainly temporary ascents or a series of ascents on the large north faces that caused a sensation:

Temporary single ascents

The Grandes Jorasses north face

The “great north faces” were climbed both in rope teams and solo (ie by climbers climbing alone) with the aim of completing the ascent in as short a time as possible. While in the first few years and decades after the respective first ascent, the best mountaineers were mainly attracted by rope team climbs for a limited period of time, but in the course of the advancement of alpinism and increased climbing skills, temporary solo ascents became the focus of interest. The inspection times are significantly shorter compared to the rope team inspections, because solo climbers can largely or completely dispense with a safety device and rope maneuvers and therefore - at the price of the usually higher risk of falling - progress much faster.

On July 26, 1950, the Austrians Erich Waschak and Leo Forstenlechner climbed the north face of the Eiger for the first time without a bivouac and in just 18 hours. This record would last until 1974.
In 1959 Dieter Marchart climbed the north face of the Matterhorn solo in just five hours.
In 1974 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climbed the north face of the Eiger in just ten hours, which was considered the fastest rope team ascent for over 30 years .
In 1982 Thomas Bubendorfer climbed the Grandes Jorasses north face and the Petit Dru north pillar in seven hours each without a rope and solo.
In 1983, Thomas Bubendorfer and Reinhard Patscheider climbed the north face of the Eiger independently of one another in less than five hours.
In 1983 Thomas Bubendorfer and Peter Rohrmoser climbed the Matterhorn north face in 3:50 hours.
In 1997 Christoph Hainz climbed the “Superdirettissima” of the Große-Zinne-Nordwand solo, in winter and in just eight hours.
In 2003, Christoph Hainz climbed the north face of the Eiger in just 4½ hours.
In 2007, the Swiss Ueli Steck climbed the north face of the Eiger on February 21 in 3:54 hours.
In 2008, Roger Schäli and Simon Anthamatten climbed the north face of the Eiger as a rope team in 6:50 hours, undercutting Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler's ten hours, which has been the fastest rope team ascent since 1974. A little later, on February 23, this record was broken by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss, who only needed 6:10 hours for their rope team ascent.
In 2008 Ueli Steck improved his own record for solo ascent of the Eiger north face to 2:47:33 hours.
In 2008 Ueli Steck climbed the Grand Jorasses north face on the Colton-McIntyre route solo in a new record time of 2:21 hours.
In 2009, Ueli Steck climbed the Matterhorn north face on the classic Schmid route solo in a new record time of 1:56 hours, thus keeping the record times of all three major north faces.
In 2011 Dani Arnold improved the record for solo ascent of the Eiger north face to 2:28 hours.
In 2015 Ueli Steck shortened his time on the Heckmair route in the Eiger north face again to 2:22:50, solo.

Multiple ascents

Gaston Rébuffat was the first mountaineer who managed to climb all six major north faces multiple times (until 1952).

Kurt Diemberger was one of the first to climb the three great north faces (1956–58).

From 1961 to 1962 Leo Schlömmer was the first to climb the three big north faces within a year.

From 1964 to 1975, Yvette Vaucher was the first woman to climb all six major north faces.

From 1977 to 1978 Ivano Ghirardini was the first to climb the big three north faces solo in one winter.

By 1979, Norbert Joos climbed the three big north faces at the age of only 19.

By 1983 Thomas Bubendorfer climbed the three big north faces as well as the north faces of Droites and Civetta at the age of only 21 years, solo, partly rope-free and in record time.

In 1991 Robert Jasper climbed the big three north faces solo within a year.

In 1992 and 1993, Catherine Destivelle was the first woman to climb the big three north faces solo and in winter.

In 1993, Alison Hargreaves became the first woman to climb all six great north faces solo within a year and in total in less than 24 hours.

In 2008, Roger Schäli climbed the six great north faces of the Alps in winter within 45 days, which is the shortest time to date that has been required to climb all six faces.

In the winter of 2014/2015, the British alpinist Tom Ballard was the first to climb the six large north faces solo in winter (and without the support of third parties).

Serial ascents ("enchaînements")

The French term "enchaînement" (literally chaining, stringing together ) stands for multiple ascents or marathon tours, in which the climbers do not return to a base camp between the individual stages, but rather carry out several independent tours in one go. In the narrower sense, this only applies to Christophe Profit in the following companies; he could only carry out the ascent in this form with the help of helicopters. In a broader sense, however, the character of an enchaînement is also given in the tours of Tomo Cesen, Erhard Loretan and Jean-Christophe Lafaille.

In 1985 Christophe Profit climbed the big three north faces solo in only 22½ hours.
In 1986 Tomo Česen climbed the three big north faces solo in winter within a week.
In 1987 Christophe Profit climbed the big three north faces solo in winter within 42 hours.
In 1989 Erhard Loretan climbed 13 north faces in the Bernese Alps (including those of the Eiger) within 13 winter days.
In 1995 Jean-Christophe Lafaille climbed ten alpine north faces solo within 16 days, including those of the Eiger and the Matterhorn.

Other great north faces of the Alps

In addition to the six north faces mentioned above, a number of other north faces of the Alps also have a high degree of difficulty and / or awareness. These walls are often referred to as "large walls", "large rock walls" or "large ice walls of the Alps", but not always with reference to their north-facing location. They are almost never placed in a row with the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes-Jorasses north face. So this is more of a descriptive than a canonical classification.

These other large north faces include:

Combined walls or ice walls

Les Droites north face (R. Messner: "[is] considered to be the wildest among the Alpine walls." If one wanted to expand the circle of the "great north faces" from six to seven, one would most likely have to consider the Droites north face.)
Grands-Charmoz north face ("One of the toughest climbs in the Alps")
Courtes north face
Triolet north face
Dent-d'Hérens north face
Ortler north face
Königspitze North Face
Fiescherhorn north face

Rock walls

The large, pure rock north faces of the Alps are located in the Eastern Alps :

Laliderer north face
Triglav north face
Western pinnacle north face
Civetta Northwest Face
Agnér north face
Hochwanner north face

gallery

Eiger north face
Aiguille-du-Dru north face
Northeast face of Piz Badile
North face of the great pinnacle

literature

Catherine Destivelle : Solo through large walls . AS Verlag, Zurich 2003, ISBN 3-909111-13-0
Alison Hargreaves : A Hard Day's Summer: Six Classic North Faces Solo . Hodder & Stoughton, London 1995, ISBN 0-340-60602-9
Reinhold Messner : The big walls. From the Eiger north face to the Dhaulagiri south face . BLG Buchverlag, 2000, ISBN 3-405-15981-4
Gaston Rébuffat : Stars and Storms. The great north faces of the Alps . GeraNova Bruckmann 1986, ISBN 3-7654-2058-1
Marco Volken: Badile. Granite cathedral . AS Verlag, 2006, ISBN 3-909111-21-1 . On all six north walls especially p. 101 and 134.
The history of the speed records on the north face of the Eiger . In: ALPIN , issue 6/07, p. 16
Uli Auffermann : In the shadow of the north face: triumph and tragedy on the Matterhorn, Eiger and Grandes Jorasses . Bruckmann Verlag, October 2011, ISBN 978-3765456268

Web links

WDR Zeitzeichen from July 21, 2013; on the occasion of the 75th anniversary of the first ascent of the Eiger north face

Notes and sources

↑ Expressions like "the four great Alpine walls" are also used occasionally; this means the “Big Three” and a fourth, mostly the Petit-Dru north face.

↑ quoted from Marco Volken: Badile. Granite cathedral .

↑ Reinhold Messner: The great walls .

↑ as for the Watzmann east face

↑ Some evidence for this often used play on words: Reinhold Messner : Bezwinger der "Mordwand" , Die Welt , February 5, 2005. Nordwand - Mordwand . ( Memento of the original from February 2, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. 3sat online; Eiger north face . Planet knowledge. @1@ 2

^ Daniel Anker (Ed.): Eiger - The vertical arena . 4. revised Edition. AS Verlag, Zurich 2008, p. 302 f.

↑ see website of Bergwacht Berchtesgaden ( Memento of the original from February 2, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2
↑ Note: Even today there are still untrodden rock peaks in the Alps; However, these are subordinate surveys, the ascent of which has not yet been considered worthwhile or sensible. All notable and important peaks were climbed by the beginning of the 20th century at the latest.
↑ Some examples of this frequently used term: Obituary Anderl Heckmair ( Memento of the original from April 7, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Conquering the Mountains . Planet knowledge. The wall - master's examination of the mountaineering guild . Mountain News. The challenge . ( Memento of the original from September 1, 2004 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. In: Schwäbisches Tagblatt . @1@ 2 @1@ 2

↑ quoted from: Alpinum.at - Forum for Mountaineers

↑ bergrettung.at ( Memento of the original from September 28, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF) and Alpinum.at - forum for mountaineers .

↑ quoted from Heinrich Harrer: Um die Eiger-Nordwand , Zentralverlag der NSDAP 1938; see also Alpinum.at - Forum for Mountaineers: Heinrich Harrer - Between Hitler and the Himalayas .

↑ see Emil Zopfi about Heckmair and Hitler , English book review by Camp4 and Anderl Heckmair . ( Memento of April 10, 2005 in the Internet Archive ) Obituary from BR-online

↑ A biography of Alison Hargreaves ( Memento of the original from September 27, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , everestnews.com .

↑ ALPIN , issue 4/11, p. 93

↑ †: died on descent.

↑ Heinrich Harrer: The white spider . 15th edition. Ullstein, Berlin 2015, ISBN 978-3-548-36229-8 , pp. 333 .

↑ see biography of Peter Habeler , KLettersteige-online.de about Reinhold Messner ( memento of the original from February 2, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . @1@ 2

↑ ^a ^b ^c see Thomas Bubendorfers homepage ( Memento of the original from December 22, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . @1@ 2

↑ see Thomas Bubendorfers homepage ( Memento of the original from December 22, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Bergnews.com about the north face of the Eiger ( Memento of the original dated December 6, 2006 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . @1@ 2 @1@ 2

↑ see Christoph Hainz's homepage ( Memento of the original from February 1, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . @1@ 2

↑ see Christoph Hainz 'homepage .

↑ see www.bergstieg.com about Ueli Steck .

↑ see Bergsteiger 4/08, p. 7

↑ ALPIN , 06/08, p. 108

↑ see report on www.bergstieg.com

↑ see report from Tagesanzeiger

↑ Ueli Steck sprints up the Matterhorn New record for extreme mountaineers - tagesschau srf.ch ( Memento from January 20, 2009 in the Internet Archive )

↑ With speed record holder Arnold on the Eiger north face April 22, 2011 tagesschau.sf.tv ( Memento from December 12, 2013 in the Internet Archive )

↑ Six minutes faster: Ueli Steck recovers the Eiger record. blick.ch, accessed on November 18, 2015 .

^ 'Swiss machine' Ueli Steck reclaims the Eiger record. SWI swissinfo.ch, accessed on November 18, 2015 .

↑ see Gaston Rébuffat: Stars and Storms. The great north faces of the Alps , GeraNova Bruckmann 1986.

↑ see OeAV events about Leo Schlömmer ( Memento of the original from December 10, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (PDF; 451 kB). @1@ 2

↑ see Dossier Extreme Sports Winter TV report from August 30, 1999 ( memo from December 22, 2009 in the Internet Archive ).

↑ see Ivano Ghirardini's homepage .

↑ see www.bergsport.ch about Norbert Joos ( Memento of the original from February 2, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . @1@ 2

↑ see Robert Jasper's homepage ( Memento of the original from December 13, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . @1@ 2

↑ see Cathérine Destivelles homepage .

↑ see Alison Hargreaves: A Hard Day's Summer: Six Classic North Faces Solo , London 1995 and A Biography of Alison Hargreaves ( Memento of the original from February 3, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , findarticles.com via Alison Hargreaves . @1@ 2