Joop (company)
The Joop! GmbH (spelling in capital letters ) is an international fashion company. Joop! was founded in 1986 by the German fashion designer Wolfgang Joop in Hamburg and developed into a fashion company for upscale women's and men's clothing as well as accessories , home textiles and children's fashion from the end of the 1980s, supported by the launch of numerous perfume products . Wolfgang Joop sold a large part of his shares in 1998 and left the company in 2001. Since 2008 Joop! a brand of the Kreuzlinger fashion group Holy Fashion Group in the middle price segment.
history
founding
In 1978 the artist, illustrator and designer Wolfgang Joop presented his first collection in New York. The collection was a fur collection and brought Joop's breakthrough. In 1982, Joop's first ready-to-wear women's collection followed, and in 1985 the first men's collection under license from Windsor GmbH. In 1987 he and his business partner, the Lancaster manager Herbert Frommen, founded JOOP! GmbH . Joop had the idea of combining the name Joop in capital letters with an exclamation mark to create a trademark and logo in the early 1980s. Frommen, who was previously responsible for establishing the perfume lines of the fashion brands of Etienne Aigner , Willy Bogner and Jil Sander , closed the Joop! GmbH a 20-year sales contract , and launched the first Joop perfume, JOOP! Femme . All existing license agreements with Joop! were terminated and renegotiated. The sales prices have been cut in half, so that Joop! to establish itself as a lifestyle brand in the upper mid-price segment and no longer market it as a designer label and thus reach larger groups of buyers . Under the name JOOP! From then on you could buy clothing, shoes, jewelry, glasses, perfume and even faucets, among other things. The stylized cornflower - Joop's favorite flower - established itself alongside the JOOP! and the exclamation mark, which from the mid-1990s also appeared on clothing as a trademark - e.g. in white on a red label on jeans back pockets - as a distinguishing mark for Joop !. In 1988 JOOP! Jeans second line established in cooperation with Mustang in Künzelsau . Joop! From the beginning of the 1990s no longer produced anything in-house, but awarded all orders to licensees ; Joop's design studio in Hamburg was closed at Frommen's urging. In 1993 Frommen was dismissed by the new owner of Lancaster, Joh. A. Benckiser , and became the managing partner of Joop! GmbH, in which he and Wolfgang Joop each held 50%. The company's press spokesman was Edwin Lemberg , Joop's partner at the time . Joop's fashion was presented at fashion shows in New York and also sold by American department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue . Joop! ran its own boutiques ( Hamburg , Frankfurt Airport , Düsseldorf ), which were managed by partners, and at times franchise boutiques ( Hanover , Kampen , Stuttgart Airport , Potsdam , St. Petersburg , Belgrade , Tallinn ).
License company
As the first license of the newly founded company, a perfume license was granted by Wolfgang Joop in 1987. Over the years, numerous perfumes and cosmetics from Lancaster / Coty have been sold under the name JOOP! launched, including classics such as JOOP! Le Bain (1988), JOOP! Homme (1988), JOOP! Nuit d'Été (1990), JOOP! Berlin (1991), JOOP! Nightflight (1992), All about Eve (1996) and many more. The perfume licensing business made up a large part of Joop! for example in 1992 approx. 190 million DM out of a total of 450 million DM group sales. The flacons of the Joop fragrances were designed by industrial designer Peter Schmidt .
More than 20 licenses for various segments of the Joop! Brand followed, including women's fashion (produced by Trend Trading Heidelberg, Jobis , Ica, Falber, Seidensticker , Windsor ), men's fashion (Windsor), children's fashion ( Mustang , Kanz), jeans (Mustang), Knitwear (women: Fuzzi, men: Windsor), ties (Windsor), underwear (women: Calida , men: Hanro, Mariner), socks (Crönert), stockings ( Falke ), shoes (Müller & Meirer, Calzaturificio Monique), scarves, Leather goods (Müller & Meirer) and bags (Müller & Meirer), belts (Müller & Meirer), glasses (Menrad), watches ( Junghans ), home items such as bed linen or porcelain. The respective companies were in part responsible for the advertising and branding of their licensed products or had secured a say, so that over the years JOOP! 'S brand presence was inconsistent and not coordinated. as an overall brand.
Wishes AG
When Frommen founded the Palladio company with Estée Lauder in 1996 , which launched scented waters for other fashion brands, a dispute arose between him and Joop, which also had to be heard in court after Joop tried to force Frommen out of the company. The annual turnover of Joop! at the end of the 1990s was more than half a billion DM . In 1998 Joop and Frommen sold 95% of the Joop! GmbH for approx. 150 million DM to the Hamburg conglomerate (textiles, real estate , shipping company, etc.) from Kai Wünsche, the Wünsche AG The company headquarters was relocated from Hamburg to Potsdam . Other prospective buyers were the former Hugo Boss managers Jochen and Uwe Holy together with Peek & Cloppenburg (Düsseldorf) and the then owner of Hugo Boss, the Italian Marzotto Group. Joop remained creative director of the brand under the direction of Wünsche's managing director Peter Littmann , previously CEO of Hugo Boss. Littmann should already battered wishes Group redevelop , who also in 1998 again posted losses. He also wanted Joop! to become a global player , but failed.
A planned IPO of Joop! was not realized. Joop and Littmann did not agree on the expansion of the brand and the brand management with the licensees and argued about it with media coverage. At times there were rumors that Joop wanted to buy back his company, and finally Littmann allowed him to quit the dispute at the end of 1999. Joop sold the remaining 5% in 2001 for almost DM 10 million to Wünsche and left the company he had founded. At the end of 2001, even after Joop! GmbH high tax back payments were due and Wolfgang Joop had obtained fee payments in the millions by court decision, reported the Wünsche AG - to which in addition to Joop! Temporarily also the fashion brand Cinque , shares in the loss-making chain of branches Jean Pascale and the label Camera belonged - after a reorganization plan had failed, bankruptcy and was subsequently liquidated .
Division of the brand
In 2003 the Joop! GmbH after a takeover battle with banks and shareholders from the Wünsche insolvency administrator in three equal shares to the former licensees of Joop !, Strellson AG (owners Uwe and Jochen Holy - fashion license) and EganaGoldpfeil (Hans-Jürgen Seeberger - license for leather goods and accessories) and Coty (license for perfumes and cosmetics), each of which was subsequently responsible for his area. As a result, the number of employees at Joop! from over 100 to about 30.
Holy Fashion Group
The Joop! Boutiques were closed in the course of time except for the Hamburg and Düsseldorf locations. The JOOP! Kids for children (from 1993 by Mustang, from 2002 by Kanz) was discontinued in 2004. In 2006 the women's fashion license from Trend Trading Heidelberg was brought back by the Strellson subsidiary Windsor, after which women's fashion was completely suspended for one year and in 2007 a new women's fashion collection from Joop! presented at the CPD in Düsseldorf. At the end of 2006, the designer Dirk Schönberger , who ran a fashion label in Paris under his name from 2002 to 2007 , became creative director at Joop! ordered. His puristic creations were praised in the professional world, but the clientele reacted cautiously to the sometimes almost avant-garde designer designs.
In mid-2007, Coty Inc. sold its own stake in Joop! - but not without securing the rights to the brand's cosmetics business - in equal parts to Strellson AG, which has been operating as the Holy Fashion Group since 2005, and to Egana-Goldpfeil, which each owns 50% to Joop! GmbH held. At the end of 2008, the Holy Fashion Group took over the 50% share of the now insolvent Egana Group and thus became the sole owner.
The Joop headquarters was relocated from Hamburg to Kreuzlingen, the countless licenses were re-coordinated, and the brand portfolio was managed in a uniform manner. A realignment of the brand and the design took place after disappointing sales figures. The main line for women (made in Bielefeld near Windsor) and men (made in Kreuzlingen by Holy Fashion Group) was created in JOOP! Collection renamed, the denim- based collection JOOP! Jeans has been discontinued and JOOP! Casual replaced.
From 2008 Joop! own collections at the Berlin Fashion Week founded in 2007 . Schönberger left Joop! At the beginning of 2010, he succeeded Michael Michalsky as chief designer at adidas . From 2010 the designer Marc Biggemann was responsible for the men's collection, and Stefanie Grosse for the women's collection. In 2011, Grosse was followed by Bernhard Allner, who was replaced by Katerina Grigoriadis in 2014 (until the end of 2015). Biggemann was replaced in 2012 by Matthias Rehbeck, who was previously responsible for the Tommy Hilfiger Tailored licensed collection at the Holy Fashion Group. Rehbeck was followed at the end of 2015 by the graduate stylist and modelist Gregor Langerspacher ( Head of Design Joop! Men ). In spring 2019, windsor designer Anke-Christin Ratzsch became Brand Director JOOP! Women appointed.
At the beginning of 2016, the Holy Fashion Group revived the discontinued Joop! Jeans line again and brought outerwear with the lettering from the 1990s on the market. The division into collection and casual has been abandoned. In 2016, the Joop! back to the Hamburg Alster villa in Harvestehuder Weg, where Wolfgang Joop had already operated his studio from 1989 to 1998.
Products
The company Joop! In addition to women's and men's fashion, it continues to sell accessories (bags, shoes, leather goods, glasses), watches and jewelry, underwear ( JOOP! Bodywear ) and a home collection ( JOOP! Living , interior textiles, bed linen, furniture programs). Joop! also grants various licenses in the home and home sector - these include licenses for furniture (Himolla, ADA, Wellemöbel), bathroom fittings (Kludi), bed linen (Elegante), terry towels (Cawö), blankets (Biederlack), curtains and pillows (Stöckel & Grimmler ).
At the beginning of 2010, men's outerwear made up 80% of Joop's sales, with men's suits alone accounting for a third .
Joop! After closing a flagship store on Neuer Wall in Hamburg at the end of 2013, only operated a single shop in Germany, which opened in early 2014, in Kö-Bogen in Düsseldorf . The latter closed its doors at the end of 2015. At the beginning of 2015, a partner-run Joop boutique was opened in Moscow. At the beginning of the 1990s there were Joop stores in Miami , among others , and in Frankfurt am Main and Potsdam at the end of the 1990s.
As of 2016 there are Joop outlets in Bielefeld near Windsor, in Wertheim Village, in Metzingen and in Parndorf . The Joop brand's online shop was launched in 2012. At the end of 2017, Joop! a shop in the Lago shopping center in Konstanz ; the only one in Germany since then. The main sales markets for the brand are the DA-CH countries; internationally it does not play a significant role.
The name Joop
Under the name Joop , the Holy Fashion Group operate independently, the label Joop! and the Wolfgang Joops daughter has been running her fashion and jewelry label Jette Joop since 1996 (although since 2005 mainly as JETTE ). Wolfgang Joop himself is the designer behind his fashion label Wunderkind and has launched his own perfumes under his name ( Wolfgang Joop , Wolfgang Joop Freigeist ) in recent years . According to industry experts, this “confusion” about the name is a burden on the Joop! in the German market.
In 2010 the brand awareness of Joop! in Germany at 82%. For 2013, the statistics portal Statista indicated awareness of 64% among the German population; the 2013 Spiegel Outfit study put the level of awareness in the “competitive environment” for men at 94% and for women at 96%.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Holy Fashion Group: Geschichte , holyfashiongroup.com, accessed: October 24, 2016
- ↑ Der Spiegel: On the Ego Trip (October 21, 1996).
- ^ SZ: Dreaming as before (April 27, 2002).
- ↑ Marketing: Who has the better nose? ( Memento from July 20, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) (August 1, 1993)
- ↑ Textilwirtschaft: Joop GmbH: Dispute goes to court ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) (March 6, 1997).
- ↑ Textilwirtschaft: Joop wants to part with 10% of his customers ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) (January 21, 1999).
- ↑ brandeins: Joop - Wolfgang =? ( Memento of March 12, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) (February 2005).
- ↑ The World: Duel of the Divas (December 7, 2001).
- ↑ Manager-Magazin: Männer-Feindschaft (April 26, 2001).
- ^ Handelsblatt: Joop henceforth without Wolfgang (April 25, 2001).
- ↑ Joop on www.parumdeal.de, accessed on June 30, 2014.
- ↑ Manager Magazine: Joop - Managing Director dropped (July 22, 2003)
- ↑ Textile industry: Joop is a top priority! ( Page no longer available , search in web archives ) (June 17, 2010)
- ↑ Manager-Magazin: Fashion Week Berlin: Vision versus Reality (January 20, 2010).
- ↑ Joop! Women celebrates its wholesale comeback textilzeitung.at, April 30, 2019
- ↑ - ( Memento from October 24, 2016 in the Internet Archive )
- ↑ Fashion brand returns: Joop! moves back to the Alster , mopo.de, August 18, 2016
- ↑ Home of Joop , joop.com, accessed: October 24, 2016
- ↑ Flagship store from Joop! closes on Neuer Wall , abendblatt.de, September 25, 2013
- ↑ Joop! opens store in Düsseldorf ( Memento from August 21, 2014 in the Internet Archive ), textilwirtschaft.de, March 5, 2014
- ↑ Joop retail store , archinect.com, accessed: October 24, 2016
- ↑ Joop! Store opened in Frankfurt , textilwirtschaft.de, October 1, 1999
- ↑ Joop makes 100,000 marks per week in Potsdam , welt.de, November 24, 1999
- ↑ Opening ceremony of the JOOP! Stores kreuzlinger-zeitung.ch, November 12, 2017
- ↑ Handelsblatt: Holys rely on Strellson and Joop ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) (October 24, 2007).
- ^ Report on the Holy Fashion Group in TextilWirtschaft 02/2010 from January 14, 2010: 82% awareness of the Joop! Brand.
- ↑ Most famous clothing brands in Germany in 2013 , de.statista.com, accessed on June 30, 2014.