Schiesser

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Schiesser AG

logo
legal form Corporation
founding 1875
Seat Radolfzell , Germany
management Andreas Lindemann
Number of employees 923
sales EUR 174.56 million
Branch dress
Website www.schiesser.com
As of December 31, 2017

The Schiesser AG in Radolfzell is one of the largest manufacturers of underwear . The company, which was founded in Radolfzell in 1875, belonged to the Schiesser Group AG from Küsnacht ( Switzerland ) until its insolvency in early 2009 , which in turn was majority owned by the Hesta Tex Group of Hesta AG based in Zug , Switzerland . With the end of the bankruptcy at the end of 2010, the now independent company Schiesser planned to go public in 2011, which was postponed to the second quarter of 2012 for economic reasons. Instead of going public, the company was sold in mid-2012 to the Israeli competitor Delta Galil , one of the largest companies in Israel with sales in 2011 of around 530 million euros and 7,000 employees.

history

Foundation and advancement

The Schiesser company was founded in 1875 by the then 27-year-old Swiss manufacturer Jacques Schiesser from the canton of Glarus . Schiesser, who previously ran a colored weaving mill in Thurgau , originally wanted to move to Königsberg in East Prussia. But a young woman from Radolfzell, who ran the Schiessers' household at the time, recommended neighboring Radolfzell as a location to the young factory owner. In 1875 Jacques Schiesser and his wife Malwine initially rented the dance hall of the “Schwert” inn in Radolfzell. Underwear, so-called jerseys , was made on nine circular knitting chairs . In 1876 the company moved to its own factory building. In 1880 the company had 280 employees. As early as 1884, an employee health insurance fund , which “still exists today in a modified form”, and later a “factory savings bank ” for the workforce were launched. A holiday and recreation home for employees has been operated in Steibis im Allgäu since 1893 . Schiesser founded branches in Stockach (1890), Bucharest (1894) and Engen (1896) and exported his laundry to the Far East . By 1900 the company had 600 employees. Guest workers from Italy were hired for whom their own dormitory was built. At the Paris World Exhibition in 1901, Jacques Schiesser received the “Grand Prix” for his patents “braided tricot” , “damask tricot” , “toughening underwear made of Ramie linen ” and “vertical stripe tricot days”. The export share was 80 percent.

So-called Jahr100Bau, a building built by Schiesser around 1900 and completely renovated in 2003

When the company founder Jacques Schiesser died of heart failure in 1913 , the company had 1,200 employees and earned the reputation of a global brand. His wife Malwine inherited the company and his son-in-law Wilhelm Finckh took over management. After the beginning of the First World War , production for the army began in 1916 ; export sales collapsed. Because of the acute shortage of raw materials, experiments were carried out with fibers made from nettles and paper. Jean Schiesser (1871–1951), Jacques' cousin, took over management of the company in 1915. In 1916 the company was converted into a public limited company. In 1919, the Swiss textile industrialist Jakob Heusser-Staub (1862–1941) took over 95% of Jacques Schiesser AG and 100% of Schiesser AG in Kreuzlingen . The number of employees had shrunk to 380 during the war, but rose again to around 800 by 1922. In 1923 the "Schiesser-Feinripp" (according to the principle one right, one left) was launched. In 1932 Schiesser was threatened with bankruptcy for the first time . The main reasons were the consequences of inflation and the global economic crisis from 1929 onwards. Parts of the plant had to close. In 1936 Walter Schellenberg was the first non-family member to take over management of the company. In 1937 the jersey quality "Mako-Porös" (a further development of "Schiesser's knotted jersey" from the 1880s) was launched . Since he had no offspring, Heusser-Staub arranged his successor in 1938 by founding, among other things, Hesta Holding as part of the Swiss Heusser-Staub AG (later Hesta AG), whose foundation stone was laid in 1869 by his father Kaspar Heusser (born July 29th 1836 - † October 12, 1910). The Hesta Holding became the parent company of Schiesser. Heusser-Staub died in 1941.

With the beginning of the Second World War in 1939, production had to be switched over to emergency programs and later again to "war production". On May 1, 1940, the company, along with other well-known companies, received the title of National Socialist Model Company from the German Labor Front (DAF) in the 1939/40 operational performance struggle . Finally, the "Schiesser mode" was discontinued. In 1945 production almost completely came to a standstill due to a lack of raw materials.

With the currency reform there was a renewed upswing, the annual turnover in 1950 was 13 million DM with a production output of 2.7 million jersey goods; the company employed 1000 people again. The company celebrated its 75th anniversary. 1951 saw the launch of "Schiesser-Doppelripp" (two on the right, two on the left). In 1953, Hans C. Bechtler-Staub, husband of Jakob Heusser-Staub's niece, took over the management of the parent company Hesta. In 1959 Schiesser opened branches in Rielasingen and Mimmenhausen , later branches in Waldshut , Steißlingen , Mühlhofen , Geislingen , Tengen , Dettingen , Hohentengen and Donndorf in Upper Franconia were added, and in 1966 new production facilities in Greece, Ireland, Austria and Switzerland. In 1966 the stock corporation was converted into a GmbH for a short period of time . In 1975, the 100th year in the history of the Schiesser company, the annual turnover was given as 437 million DM with an annual production of 38 million pieces. In the 1970s, Schiesser expanded the portfolio to include daywear. In 1980 Thomas W. Bechtler (* 1949), Hans C. Bechtler-Staub's son-in-law, joined the board of directors of Hesta AG. After reunification in 1990, locations were opened in Saxony and the Czech Republic , and sales rose to DM 555 million.

Schiesser Group

Schiesser branch (2015)

In 1991 the French underwear manufacturer Eminence was taken over by Schiesser. From then on, the company operated as Schiesser Eminence Holding AG , Stein am Rhein / Switzerland, to which, in addition to the Schiesser Group Germany , the Eminence Group and thus the southern French company Eminence from Aimargues as well as the Italian Ragno Group and various foreign production companies belonged. During this time, Schiesser was - in terms of sales - the largest manufacturer of underwear in Europe and was among the top German textile brands.

From 1993 onwards, Schiesser began to feel the crisis on the textile market increasingly. Schiesser shifted production more and more to Central and Eastern Europe and closed its plants in Tengen (121 employees) and in Oberlichtenau in Saxony . In 1994 the locations in Stockach (106 employees) and the sewing shop in Kreuzlingen (82 employees) followed. These measures led to cost savings and were initially seen as a sufficient response to the changed market conditions. In 1996, however, Schiesser (which still employs around 7,000 people worldwide) took further drastic rationalization measures : the closure of the plants in Waldshut-Tiengen (101 employees) and Titisee-Neustadt (87 employees), the Mimmenhausen and Rielasingen (together 422 employees) and the It has been announced that 150 jobs will be cut in Radolfzell. In 1997, the company logo was revised, which was accompanied by a complete brand and product relaunch of the Schiesser brand. During this time, the Schiesser brand had a brand awareness of 95 percent in Germany . 80% of the sales were generated in German-speaking countries.

Schiesser logo from the end of the 1990s

In 1999 Schiesser cut another 540 jobs (395 in Radolfzell and Engen and 145 in Donndorf in Bavaria ). In addition, the clothing shop in Wittgensdorf, Saxony, was closed. The company Eminence was sold to the French financial investor Orium at the end of 1999 . The Schiesser Group, headed by Thomas Bechtler since 1996, was renamed Schiesser Group AG . As a result, Schiesser was overtaken by Triumph International in the ranking of Europe's largest underwear manufacturers . The Schiesser Group in Küsnacht, the parent company of the German Schiesser AG in Radolfzell, belonged to the parent company Hesta Tex AG in Zug , which in turn was part of the Hesta Holding in Zug.

In 2000, the decision was made to close the Engen plant. The 173 employees were offered a job at the parent plant in Radolfzell. Just two years later, the company announced that it would cut another 300 jobs in Radolfzell. Production was initially completely relocated to Greece , the Czech Republic (subsidiary PLEAS in Havlíčkův Brod ) and Slovakia , and some to Bulgaria . In the future, the headquarters in Radolfzell should only take over production development, sales and marketing, which meant the loss of around 1,000 jobs in the region around Lake Constance and in Eckersdorf near Bayreuth . In autumn 2000 the outsourcing led to massive delivery problems with lost sales and disgruntled retailers. As a result, the internal sales structure was changed.

At the beginning of 2002, the former adidas and Reebok manager Winfried Daltrop (* 1963), who has been with Schiesser since 1999 and Schiesser Sales Manager from April 2001, was appointed CEO . He arranged that the production was completely withdrawn from Germany. The first Schiesser store in Germany was opened in Braunschweig , after operating eight of its own stores in the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Poland . From 2004, extensive process-optimizing re-engineering measures were initiated in cooperation with external management consultants , including the Institute for Technology Management at the University of St. Gallen (ITEM-HSG) and the Research Institute for Rationalization at RWTH Aachen University (FIR). Under Daltrop's direction, Schiesser produced underwear not only under its own label but also under license for brands such as Mexx (2003-2008), Seidensticker (from 2006), Wolff, Levi’s (2004-2008), Puma (2003-2008), Strellson ( from 2006), Ralph Lauren (2003–2008) and Jacques Britt (from 2006), having previously made lingerie for Nino Cerruti (1988–1994), Paloma Picasso (swimwear, 1991–1994) and Hugo Boss (1998–2003) had been. Due to unprofitable license agreements, such as with Puma and the Tommy Hilfiger Corporation (2004–2007), Schiesser got into massive financial difficulties. The three-year collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger ended in mid-2007. At the end of 2008 the license agreements with Puma, Mexx, Ralph Lauren and Levi's were not renewed.

Daltrop founded the company Schiesser Lifestyle GmbH , to which the collaboration with the designer Kostas Murkudis (2004-2008) as well as the licensing business and designer boutiques Kju (among others in Düsseldorf, Cologne and Wiesbaden) belonged. With the exception of Schiesser Revival, these activities were largely in deficit and have been discontinued. The company reported sales for 2004 of over 200 million euros. With the introduction of the new company software Movex by Intentia ( Lawson Software ) at Daltrop's insistence at the end of 2005, an IT chaos began at Schiesser in early 2006 , in which, among other things, orders and production data as well as fabric orders were lost. It took more than a year for the software to work properly and for the damage to be fixed. As a result, there were no orders from retailers and the company was left with manufactured goods worth 30 million euros, which inevitably had to be sold at dumping prices. At the end of 2007, Daltrop, who had previously fired numerous company managers, had to leave on the instructions of the Bechtler family. He was followed by Rudolf Bündgen, who has been with the company since 1991. Intensive cost-saving measures were initiated at Schiesser from 2008 onwards.

Bankruptcy and a fresh start

At the beginning of 2009, another 90 jobs were lost in Radolfzell. That left 500 jobs there, 2300 worldwide. Despite a successful restructuring and positive business development in 2009, the necessary follow-up financing could not be secured. The Swiss owner family Bechtler around Thomas Bechtler had refused to help Schiesser out again with a double-digit million sum. On February 9, 2009, Schiesser AG filed for insolvency proceedings . The Stuttgart lawyer Volker Grub was appointed as the insolvency administrator of Schiesser AG . The district court of Konstanz opened insolvency proceedings on May 1st, 2009. On April 1st, 2009 it was announced that the fashion designer Wolfgang Joop was considering taking over the insolvent lingerie manufacturer. According to media reports, other investors wanted to participate with him. On July 7, 2009, the lingerie manufacturer's creditors decided to keep Schiesser and sell it. The workforce was reduced from 2300 to 1900 employees in 2009.

At the end of 2009, Volker Grub reported that Schiesser would be back in the black in 2009. After the company parted with the loss-making licensing business, reduced costs and looked for new sales channels on the Internet, the company generated an operating result of 3 million euros from May 1 to December 31, 2009 with its healthy core business. The insolvent company also had liabilities of 86 million euros. On 28 June 2010, the creditors' committee of Schiesser AG, the company decided in cooperation with Wolfgang Joop in early 2011 in the Prime Standard at the Frankfurt Stock Exchange bring to want also to settle this debt. Joop should only advise Schiesser in matters of design, marketing and the visual appearance . In return, he should hold 10% of the company's shares. Four weeks earlier, Joop had handed over the management of his fashion company WUNDERKIND . In mid-March 2011, Schiesser announced that the planned collaboration with Wolfgang Joop would not come about because the “updated brand identity and the development of the new collection” at Schiesser had already been sufficiently completed without Joop's assistance.

The IPO would have stood in contrast to the sale planned in 2009, for which two interested parties were available. For Grub it would not have been the first time that he preferred this solution to a sale: In 1986 he led ATB Antriebstechnik Bauknecht out of insolvency to the capital market. At the beginning of December 2010, the Konstanz District Court approved the Schiesser insolvency plan, which had already been approved at the creditors' meeting on December 9, 2010, and ended the bankruptcy of Schiesser AG on December 28, 2010. The then board of directors of Schiesser AG, consisting of Rudolf Bündgen, Karl-Achim Klein and Johannes Molzberger, took over sole management of the company again. In May 2011, a new Schiesser brand identity was published, which also included a redesigned company logo. In 2011 new Schiesser stores were opened in the Hackesche Höfe in Berlin and Regensburg.

The initial public offering planned for 2011 with Equinet Bank and BHF-Bank was postponed to 2012 at the beginning of 2011 for economic reasons and finally canceled. Instead, the sale to the Israeli consumer goods company Delta Galil was agreed in early May 2012 and completed on July 1, 2012. With the capital of 68 million euros brought in by Delta Galil, the existing claims of creditors of 58 million euros could be serviced.

Products

Schiesser revival.png

The company produces underwear, nightwear and leisurewear for women, men and children. There are also swimwear, sportswear and functional underwear. Schiesser was one of the first underwear manufacturers, because it wasn't until industrialization that mass production of clothing emerged. The company is also credited with a pioneering role in the development of modern men's underpants , which only became common as a garment in the second half of the 19th century. In 1923 the fine rib quality was introduced, in 1937 Mako-Porös followed , and in 1951 the production of double rib . The models corresponded to the usual taste of the time, which for a long time was shaped by prudish .

Current product lines

  • Schiesser - main line for women, men and children in the middle price segment
  • Schiesser 95/5 - collection for women, men and children made of 95% pima cotton and 5% elastane
  • Schiesser Revival - lingerie series with a higher price and unexpectedly successful in small quantities in a retro look based on Schiesser models from the 1920s, 1930s and 1950s, since 2003
  • Seidensticker underwear - license production alongside our own lines
  • Schiesser Aqua - swimwear for women, men and children

Former product lines

Jacques Schiesser.png
  • Schiesser - kostas murkudis - high-priced designer lingerie series in selected retail stores, made of high-quality materials, in cooperation with the fashion designer Kostas Murkudis , started in 2004, launched in 2005, discontinued in 2008 due to sales difficulties.
  • Jacques Schiesser - high-priced premium brand, from 2003 to 2008
  • Jacques S. by Schiesser - high-quality collection sold in the early 1990s
  • Viabella - women's underwear series with swimwear offered in the early 1990s, discontinued in 1996 and further developed as Schiesser Dessous
  • Schiesser Sport - sporty line (sports bras , functional underwear , breathable fabrics, etc.), from 2003
  • Schiesser Med - Collection for sensitive and dry skin, from 2008
  • Strellson - license production alongside its own lines

Locations

The headquarters with the design and logistics departments are located at the headquarters in Radolfzell . In addition, Schiesser has production companies in Greece, the Czech Republic (subsidiary PLEAS in Havlíčkův Brod ) and Slovakia.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. a b Annual financial statements as of December 31, 2017 in the electronic Federal Gazette
  2. a b Insolvency proceedings at Schiesser are canceled . In: Südkurier from January 4, 2011
  3. The resurrection of the fine rib giant , focus.de ,. January 2011
  4. IPO / Schiesser is getting closer to its IPO target - insolvency canceled , handelszeitung.ch, January 4, 2011
  5. a b Schiesser plans to go public in 2012 , sueddeutsche.de, August 24, 2011
  6. a b Linen manufacturer Schiesser: Sale instead of IPO at handelsblatt.com, May 2, 2012 (accessed on May 2, 2012).
  7. a b c Oliver Fiedler: Schiesser: A jersey pioneer in the dance hall . Ed .: Singener Wochenblatt. 1999 ( online [accessed June 27, 2013]). Schiesser: A jersey pioneer in the dance hall ( Memento from August 29, 2014 in the Internet Archive )
  8. a b c d e f g h i j k Hildegard Linssen: The checkered history of the traditional company . In: Südkurier of June 30, 2010
  9. a b c d e f g h i j k Nike Breyer: Fine & double rib . In: the daily newspaper (taz) of February 14, 2004
  10. Schiesser company history: Social engagement  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , schiesser.com, accessed: January 4, 2011@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.schiesser.com  
  11. ^ Peter Jehli-Kamm: Family Research Jehli-Kamm. Retrieved August 4, 2017 .
  12. HESTA Immobilien GmbH - History  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , hesta-immobilien.de, accessed: January 4, 2011@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.hesta-immobilien.de  
  13. To what extent did Switzerland benefit from forced labor? Subsidiaries of Swiss industrial companies in the Nazi economy ( Memento of the original from March 4, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.publicitycom.de archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . In: Tages-Anzeiger from August 31, 2001
  14. Baden's businesses in a competitive battle . Award for the national holiday of the German people. In: Freiburg newspaper . May 1, 1940 ( digitized versionhttp: //vorlage_digitalisat.test/1%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Faz.ub.uni-freiburg.de%2Fshow%2Ffz.cgi%3Fcmd%3Dshowpic%26ausgabe%3D05%26day%3D01%26year%3D1940%26month% 3D05% 26project% 3D3% 26 number% 3D10 ~ GB% 3D ~ IA% 3D ~ MDZ% 3D% 0A ~ SZ% 3D ~ double-sided% 3D ~ LT% 3D ~ PUR% 3D [accessed September 26, 2010]).
  15. ^ Adrien Cahuzac: Eminence, un survivant du sous-vêtement français (German: Eminence, survivor of the French underwear industry). Usinenouvelle.com, April 30, 2010
  16. Schiesser without Eminence  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de   , textilwirtschaft.de, December 16, 1999
  17. The man who dropped Schiesser , wiwo.de, February 23, 2009. Portrait of Thomas Bechtler
  18. Schiesser gives up the Radolfzell production site  ( page can no longer be accessed , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, January 22, 2002@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  19. Schiesser has solved its delivery problems  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, August 2, 2001@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  20. Daltrop becomes the new Schiesser boss. Production in Radolfzell is closed , textilwirtschaft.de, January 17, 2002
  21. Feinripp and the consequences , manager-magazin.de, January 4, 2008
  22. a b c d e Fein RIP - How mismanagement drove Schiesser bankrupt , wiwo.de, February 23, 2009
  23. Schiesser: First German Shop , textilwirtschaft.de, October 8, 2002
  24. a b c d e Thomas Hagenbucher: Insolvent linen manufacturer. Joop should make Schiesser fit for the stock market . In: Schwäbische Zeitung from June 30, 2010
  25. Schiesser - The sleepless nights are over  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, July 19, 2007@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  26. Schiesser optimizes supply chain  ( page can no longer be accessed , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, October 28, 2004@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  27. Schiesser: Daltrop leaves, Bündgen becomes board spokesman , textilwirtschaft.de, November 7, 2007
  28. Schiesser boss leaves ( memento from August 23, 2014 in the Internet Archive ), suedkurier.de, November 9, 2007
  29. Schiesser is back in the black , hna.de, November 28, 2011
  30. Panties with a future , taz.de, February 15, 2009
  31. ↑ Finished for Feinripp: Schiesser files for bankruptcy , Spiegel Online from February 9, 2009
  32. Schiesser in bankruptcy. Insolvenzratgeber.de, undated
  33. Lingerie manufacturer in bankruptcy. Fashion designer Joop is after Schiesser . In: Schwäbische Zeitung from April 2, 2009
  34. Schiesser is back in the black ( Memento from November 30, 2009 in the Internet Archive ), rp-online.de, November 28, 2009
  35. Schiesser: green light for IPO  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , fashionunited.de, December 10, 2010@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.fashionunited.de  
  36. Joop: Re-discover core competence of Schiesser , focus.de, December 13, 2010
  37. The child prodigy no longer wants to calculate. Zeit Online, June 4, 2010, accessed September 26, 2010 .
  38. Schiesser and Joop go their separate ways , zeit.de, March 18, 2011
  39. Joop is out at Schiesser and in at Wunderkind , tagesspiegel.de, March 18, 2011
  40. Problems with Wunderkind and Schiesser - Wolfgang Joop is fighting for his life's work ( memento from March 23, 2011 in the Internet Archive ), ftd.de, March 21, 2011
  41. Anja Arning (aa): Schiesser goes public . In: Südkurier of June 30, 2010
  42. Schiesser: District court approves insolvency plan , textilwirtschaft.de, December 13, 2010
  43. Schiesser creditors for IPO - insolvency proceedings before the end , reuters.com, December 9, 2010
  44. Schiesser with a new brand identity , designtagebuch.de, May 12, 2011
  45. New logo , suedkurier.de, May 4, 2011
  46. Schiesser opens in Hackesches Quartier , textilwirtschaft.de, May 18, 2011
  47. Schiesser, Berlin and Regensburg , textilwirtschaft.de, August 29, 2011
  48. Schiesser postpones IPO , manager-magazin.de, April 13, 2011
  49. Schiesser postpones IPO , textilwirtschaft.de, April 13, 2011
  50. Now firmly in Israeli hands. Schiesser is rid of debts. n-tv, July 4th 2012
  51. Schiesser is sold to Israel , faz.net, May 2, 2012
  52. Hippe Rippe , focus.de, October 20, 2003.
  53. Look out of the laundry in evening clothes. faz.net, July 18, 2005.
  54. Schiesser - kostas murkudis  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , schiesser.com, accessed: January 2, 2011@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.schiesser.com  
  55. "Fashion shouldn't be taken so seriously" - the versatile Kostas Murkudis. goethe.de, accessed January 2, 2011.
  56. Dead pants on Lake Constance. stern.de, July 24, 2008.
  57. Jacques Schiesser  ( page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , schiesser.com, accessed January 4, 2011@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.schiesser.com  
  58. Functional underwear by professionals for professionals , bankkaufmann.com, December 5, 2006
  59. SCHIESSER Sport Functional Underwear ( Memento of the original from September 24, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , golf.de, accessed January 4, 2011 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.golf.de
  60. Julia Schönmuth: With Joop on the stock exchange . In: Südkurier of June 30, 2010
  61. Marktcheck checks Schiesser , swrfernsehen.de, March 12, 2015