Bent Angelo Jensen

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Bent Angelo Jensen (born July 10, 1977 in Sønderborg , Denmark ) is a German fashion designer of Danish origin who founded the fashion label Herr von Eden (or HvE for short ) in 1998 . He exclusively sells men's fashion and owns three stores in Hamburg, Berlin and Cologne. His customers include primarily artists from the music industry such as Jan Delay , Peter Doherty and Udo Lindenberg .

In June 2013 Jensen presented for fashion label Herr von Eden a bankruptcy petition . As a result, the fashion label was restructured in 2014 so that the debt of one million euros can be reduced.

Life and career

Childhood and Adolescence (1977–1995)

Bent Angelo Jensen was born in Sønderborg in 1977 and grew up in a German foster family in Flensburg (Schleswig-Holstein) after the death of his father in 1982 . He got his first name "Bent" from his Danish father Hans-Gerhard Luigi Jensen (* 1947, † 1982), who worked full-time in the red light district and owned a striptease club . He also ran an industrial bakery that produced Danish hot dog rolls. He died of an "unhealthy lifestyle" at the age of 35 when Jensen was five. He got his middle name "Angelo" from his Italian grandmother (* 1923; † 2015). Jensen's mother (* 1946) comes from Germany. Bent Angelo Jensen has an older sister (* 1964) and an older brother (* 1972).

At the age of 14, Jensen rummaged in the DRK's old clothing collections , as he did not want to belong to the then fashionable crowd. He looked for suits and ties to wear: “It was a kind of rebellion for me. I just find it appealing to rebel against the standard, ”said Jensen. Finally he hired a second-hand shop in Flensburg and sorted discarded suits. “That was my training. I learned everything about sizes , dealing with customers and accounting . ”When he finished high school, his mother bought him a new suit and suggested that he do a banking apprenticeship . But Jensen, who, among other things, had mathematics as an advanced course at school, turned it down.

Jensen lives in Hamburg-St. Georg and is in a relationship with the photographer Kat Voltage.

24 Hours - 24 Cabins (1995–1998)

After graduating from high school, Jensen moved to Hamburg in 1995 , completed his community service there and, at the age of 18, opened a fashion store called 24 Hours - 24 Cabins with a friend in a former grocery store in Hamburg's Karolinenviertel . There they sold imported US jeans and used second-hand shirts from the 1970s.

Lord of Eden (1998-2013)

In 1998 Jensen left 24 Hours - 24 Cabins and opened the first Herr von Eden branch in Hamburg, just ten meters across from 24 Hours - 24 Cabins , and specialized in used suits in the style of exclusive men's outfitters. Initially, the shop was stocked with upscale second-hand goods that Jensen had collected together in previous years. He lent suits and jackets for a certain monthly rate to customers, who got another item, cleaned and serviced, back once a week. "Open cloakroom" is how Jensen called his concept. Shortly afterwards, about 30 customers no longer wanted to give away their favorite pieces, so Jensen sold them. He received 300 to 350 DM for vintage pieces . Jensen called his label Herr von Eden because he wanted a German name that should convey “upscale men's wardrobe”. However, he himself favors the initials HvE and says that Herr von Eden is “just another term for a gentleman ”.

In 1999 Jensen designed his first suit , which his older sister Britta made. Britta Jensen is a trained tailor and was working as a lecturer at a Copenhagen fashion school. She helped Jensen implement his ideas. After completing the patterns , Jensen contacted the Polish consulate and asked for addresses of textile manufacturers who could produce the suits in good quality. In November he went to Poland with a friend and found a factory that made twenty white and twenty black suits for him and sent them by air to Hamburg. In January the suits were already sold out. Finally, Jensen borrowed textbooks from his sister in order to be able to design patterns and textile technologies himself ; he acts as a model himself to support his advertising campaigns . Looking back, Jensen says that he didn't want to go down in history as a “rag dealer” or “old clothes king”.

Jensen is supported by professional tailors and a model maker for custom-made products. In a first step, 25 to 30 measurements are taken, from which a test model is created from the so-called nettle fabric. “I then work as a designer on this material,” says Jensen. In addition to the choice of the cloth and the decision for a cut, it is also about supposed details; where, for example, fasten buttons and the lapel are attached, what is the ideal pocket position. This is followed by a second try-on with the original fabric and after a third appointment the customer can take the suit with them.

Most of the ideas for his creations come to him while walking and traveling, says Jensen. The autodidact Jensen now owns a complete collection , which he sells in stores in Hamburg, Berlin and Cologne. The men's suits that are sold there are made in the Czech Republic and Slovakia .

A dream for the future is “the international breakthrough”, says Jensen. He would also like to have his own business in London and New York City .

Filed for bankruptcy in 2013

End of June 2013 asked Jensen for his fashion label Herr von Eden a bankruptcy petition because he had a million euro debt. On September 23, 2013, under the slogan Bent Aid! ( English for support for Bent [Angelo Jensen] ) in the Hamburg Deichtorhallen a charity - auctions held at which celebrities auctioned items, the proceeds of the insolvent fashion label Herr von Eden zugutekam. For example, Udo Lindenberg painted a picture for the auction that was auctioned for 20,000 euros. A total of 50,000 euros were achieved at the auction, which Jensen invested in an escrow account . He also collected money in private.

Restructuring of Herr von Eden (since 2014)

After the bankruptcy petition was made in 2014 a restructuring of Herr von Eden and Jensen formed a working group consisting of a liquidator , a lawyer , a financial advisor and the managing director was Florian Töbe knows the Jensen since 1999th “Florian was my first model, ” he recalled. Jensen closed the branches in Munich and Copenhagen. He also deleted the women's, shoe and jewelry collections from the program as well as his own perfume line. He also reduced his workforce from 35 to 18.

Since July 1, 2014, Jensen has again assumed sole responsibility and decisions relating to Herr von Eden no longer have to be presented to an insolvency administrator.

Fashion style

Since filing for bankruptcy in June 2013, Bent Angelo Jensen has focused exclusively on men's fashion. His collections are a combination of nostalgia and avant-garde ; a mixture of dandy , glamor in the 1920s style paired with elegance . The fashionable style is inspired by the highlights of past fashion decades, but has the zeitgeist . Small cut variations and discreetly playful details such as cuff knots or slanted coat pockets give Jensen's collections their very own style. Sometimes his collections are considered extravagant and provocative . Typical features of Herr von Eden -Looks are velvet - and Tweed - jackets , flannel , cashmere - coats , plus colorful silk - ties and pocket squares . Jensen himself calls his fashion style “Windsor Punk” and his fashionable role models are Ermenegildo Zegna , Etro , Vivienne Westwood and the designs of the young Yves Saint Laurent .

reception

Artists from the music industry in particular sometimes wear collections by Bent Angelo Jensen; For example, in 2006 the singer Jan Delay Jensen approached the Golden Pudel Club in Hamburg and asked whether he could design suits for him . Initially, Jensen only created a suit for him and made it available for delay recordings for the studio album Mercedes-Dance . In 2009 Jensen designed a complete stage outfit for both Jan Delay and his eleven-piece orchestra for the tour Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Soul . “I spoke to every single musician about their preferences, what suits them, what size they wear,” Jensen recalled. For Delay he created suits that are reminiscent of the early 1980s and the pastel colors of the Miami style. Jensen combined them with pork pie hats . In 2009, Delay was named "Man of the Year" by the lifestyle magazine GQ in the Style category . "This 'trophy' went to us too," said Jensen happily. In 2010, Bent Angelo Jensen won gold with his fashion label Herr von Eden at the German media prize LeadAward in the advertising campaign of the year category .

The singer Lady Gaga bought sunglasses from the limited Edeneyes collection in 2010 , which also came from Jensen, and Thomas Gottschalk had him design 50 complete outfits for a TV show in 2012. In 2014 Jensen made five suits for Wolfgang Joop for the casting show Germany’s Next Top Model . In the same year Jensen attended a Hamburg concert by the band Babyshambles , whose lead singer Peter Doherty he met; At Jensen's suggestion, Doherty and his band recorded new music in the Clouds Hill recording studio in the Rothenburgsort district of Hamburg .

Other celebrities that Jensen has equipped with his collections are: Bela B , Bill Kaulitz , Eckart von Hirschhausen , Fatih Akın , Götz Alsmann , Gonzales , Lukas Podolski , Martin Gore , Michael Stipe , Peaches , Robert Stadlober , Rocko Schamoni , Stefan Kretzschmar , The Libertines , Tim Mälzer , Udo Kier , Udo Lindenberg , Ulrich Tukur and William Dafoe .

In 2015, Jensen was the patron of the design and fashion festival le bloc , which has been taking place in Cologne's Belgian quarter since 2009 . In May 2019 he was on the jury of "Guidos Masterclass", a casting format about fashion design, which was moderated by Guido Maria Kretschmer on the private broadcaster VOX .

Web links

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  1. a b c d Stefanie Wilke: Heart and soul on the body. (No longer available online.) In: Stern.de. November 18, 2007, archived from the original on April 7, 2014 ; accessed on May 26, 2017 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.stern.de
  2. a b Ronny Galczynski: "We want to equip the boys with nice jerseys". December 29, 2017. Retrieved February 14, 2018 .
  3. a b c d e f Bettina Rust : Bent Angelo Jensen aka Herr von Eden. In: mediathek.rbb-online.de. February 11, 2018, accessed February 13, 2018 .
  4. ^ A b c d e Leonie Seifert: Lord of Eden - "I am a passionate stoner". In: Zeit.de. November 22, 2017. Retrieved November 23, 2017 .
  5. a b Hanna Grabbe and Sarah Levy: Lord of Eden: This bankruptcy has done me incredibly good . In: Zeit.de. July 21, 2015, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  6. a b c Anke Schipp: The Dandy from St. Pauli. In: FAZ.de. June 23, 2010. Retrieved May 26, 2017 .
  7. a b c d e f g Vera Altrock: The brave little tailor is back in the Karoviertel. In: Abendblatt.de. April 4, 2014, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  8. a b c d e f Elena Rudolph: The Windsor punk from the Waterkant. In: DerHamburger.info. 2009, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  9. a b Caroline Rudelt: The Dandy of Eden. In: Morgenpost.de. June 3, 2012, Retrieved May 26, 2017 .
  10. Alexandra Maschewsi: Where Hanseatic people have tailors. In: Welt.de. December 4, 2011, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  11. The man behind "Lord of Eden". In: Welt.de. July 3, 2013, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  12. a b c Maya Ueckert: "Lord of Eden" and the perfect suit. In: NDR.de. October 9, 2012, archived from the original on October 13, 2012 ; accessed on May 26, 2017 .
  13. Grit Thönnisse: "Herr von Eden" -Designer on bankruptcy - In times of crisis, people move together and develop new processes . In: Tagesspiegel.de. July 8, 2014, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  14. Bent Angelo Jensen again responsible for Herr von Eden. In: Abenblatt.de. July 4, 2014, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  15. So creative! LeadAwards Medals 2010. (No longer available online.) In: Leadacademy.de. 2010, archived from the original on March 4, 2016 ; accessed on May 26, 2017 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / leadacademy.de
  16. Pete Doherty moves to St. Pauli. In: Focus.de. April 9, 2014, accessed May 26, 2017 .
  17. Simone Bruns: Lord of Eden. In: Simonebruns.de. March 12, 2009. Retrieved May 26, 2017 .
  18. Patron Bent Angelo Jensen in a personal interview. (No longer available online.) In: lebloc.de. June 10, 2015, formerly in the original ; accessed on May 26, 2017 .  ( Page no longer available , search in web archivesInfo: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.lebloc.de  
  19. ^ Petra Noppeney: Competition without frippery. In: wn.de. May 28, 2019, accessed June 16, 2019 .