Othegraven winery

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Othegraven winery around 1805 owned by Emmerich Grach (1753–1826)
View from Kanzemer Berg over the manor house, its park and the Saar to the village of Kanzem
(Ortschronik Kanzem 1831)
Manor house and park in front of the Kanzemer Altenberg (2011)

The Othegraven winery is a traditional winery in the Rhineland-Palatinate Kanzem on the Saar , in the Moselle wine-growing region .

The winery has changed its name several times due to the succession: until 1824 it was called Grach, until 1881 Weißebach, until 1954 J. Weißebach Erben, until 1968 Maximilian von Othegraven, until 1995 M. von Othegraven. In 1874 its owner was one of the founders of the German Association for the Production and Consumption of Natural Wine, the forerunner of the German Viticulture Association . In 1908 the estate was a founding member of the Great Ring of Mosel-Saar-Ruwer , and in 1910 of the Association of German Natural Wine Auctioneers , the forerunner of the Association of German Predicate and Quality Wineries (VDP) , the association of top wineries in Germany. The Kanzemer Berg was already one of the highest quality sites in the Prussian site classification of 1868.

The Manor House , his English landscape garden and the subsequent location Kanzemer Altenberg form a complete system , a cultural monument , and are under monument protection , a distinction that is of Othegraven divides the world with just a few wineries. The manor house and the manor park are part of the Saar-Hunsrück nature park . The Kanzemer Altenberg , of up to 85 percent slope , which forms with 250 meters overhang length the longest steep slope of Germany and one of the longest steep slopes worldwide.

The winery, which can be traced back to the 15th century, became the private property of the Archbishop and Elector of Trier, Karl Kaspar von der Leyen , in 1654 . It has been in the possession of the current owner and his ancestors since 1805, always inherited undivided like a Fideikommiss . This makes the winery one of the few important wineries that have always been privately owned, and not one of the top vineyards that are otherwise church-owned, which only came into secular hands after 1803 as part of the Reichsdeputationshauptschluss . In 2010 the property passed to the journalist Günther Jauch in the seventh generation . Jauch is the descendant of Emmerich Grach (1753–1826), who acquired the winery in 1805 from Count Philipp von der Leyen-Hohengeroldseck . At the originating from Weingut von Othegraven crematorium wine of the century vintage 1921, the year since 1988 in recalls Trier 1987 e of the Prince guild of Trier. V. awarded the Franz Weißebach Prize , named after its founder .

history

When the Romans came to the Saar 2000 years ago , the Celtic Treverians were already growing wine there . The Romans refined the methods and planted vines on a large scale. Since the 2nd to 4th centuries all suitable areas near Kanzem were overgrown with wine. In the Middle Ages, the monasteries continued to grow wine. The beginnings of the former winery of the Premonstratensian monastery in Wadgassen , which is now part of the Trier seminary, date back to the year 1381 . In 1787, Clemens August , the last Archbishop and Elector of Trier , decreed that only Riesling could be cultivated in his domain . Although Kanzem - like Wiltingen - has been an enclave of the Duchy of Luxembourg since the 11th century , it was added to the Département des Forêts under French rule in 1795 and assigned to the newly formed Saarburg district at the Vienna Congress in 1815 and has since been with the other wine-growing regions of the Saar also united politically.

owner

Franz Anton Weißebach (1778–1857) (oil painting by JA Ramboux )
Franz Weißebach (1860–1925) - memorial plaque on the city wall in Trier's palace garden , behind which a bottle of J. Weißebach heirs from 1921 is walled in

The von Metzenhausen family had owned the winery since around 1500 . In 1604 the then owner Peter von Metzenhausen built a wine press house , which still forms the core of the manor house today. In 1654 the estate came into the possession of the von der Leyen family . In the Reichsdeputationshauptschluss 1803 the von der Leyen lost their holdings on the left bank of the Rhine. Subsequently, Imperial Count Philipp von der Leyen-Hohengeroldseck (1766-1829) was given back part of the property by imperial French decree, including the winery in Kanzem.

In 1805 he sold the winery to the Trier factory owner, businessman and alderman Emmerich Grach (1753-1826). As early as 1803, he and Peter Ludwig Mohr , who later became the father-in-law of his son Johann Georg, had acquired half of the secularized winery of the Trier Imperial Abbey of St. Maximin in Oberemmel , whose current owner, Eberhard von Kunow, has been the fifth chairman of the VDP Mosel Ring since 2004. Saar-Ruwer is. In 1806 Grach bought the third estate of Baron de Baring in Kues and subsequently the Josef Sproß winery. In 1812 he acquired the winery in Wawern from the Trier banker Johann Josef Reverchon , the former estate of the Trier cathedral chapter with the location Wawerner Herrenberg . With his son Joseph Grach started a wine trade from Oberemmel to Bonn , Cologne , Düsseldorf and Mülheim. Grach's daughter Katharina (1789–1826), who was married to Franz Anton Weißebach (1778–1857), received the Kanzemer winery, which had since been enlarged by the additional areas purchased by the Luxemburger de Waha at Kanzemer Altenberg, handed over by her father in 1824, but only died two months after his death.

The winery came into the possession of the son Julius Weißebach (1822–1881) and his wife Anna Maria Schoemann (1833–1899). Their children continued to run the estate in an undivided community of heirs as J. Weißebach Erben , with Carl Weißebach managing the estate. His brother Franz Weißebach (1860–1925) became known as the mischievous founder of the crematorium wine and the Trier palace garden . The brothers were childless, so that Carl Weißebach handed over the estate to his nephew Maximilian von Othegraven in 1922 from the marriage of his sister Josephine Weißebach (1859-1934) with the merchant Wilhelm von Othegraven (1842-1915). In the mid-1950s Maximilian von Othegraven acquired the shares of his siblings or brother-in-law Hans Jauch and named the winery Maximilian von Othegraven . After his death in 1968 his widow Maria von Othegraven, b. Baum, (1899–1995) continued the winery under the name of M. von Othegraven . This marriage was also childless. In 1995, Dr. Heidi Kegel, b. Baum, niece of Maria von Othegraven, the winery that has since borne the name of Othegraven . In 2010 she sold the winery to Günther Jauch , a grandson of Elsa von Othegraven, and thus back into the line of direct descendants of Emmerich Grach.

manor

The wine press house, which was documented in the early 17th century, was expanded by Emmerich Grach at the beginning of the 19th century to include a residential wing and used as a summer residence. In 1875 the living part of the previously single-storey wine press and residential building was increased. In 1925 the press house was renewed. At the end of the Second World War , the manor house was destroyed by advancing American troops who had reached Kanzem on the opposite side of the Saar on February 24, 1945. The Wehrmacht had previously given up the Saargau and withdrew behind the Saar. “When the fighting was over, the wreck of an American fighter plane lay in the Scharzhofberg , the manor house of Weißebach Erben (today von Othegraven) in Kanzem was badly damaged by artillery fire, the Kanzemer Berg (Altenberg), at the foot of which the Wehrmacht set up an artillery position was affected by trenches and bomb craters. ”Between 1954 and 1956, a new building was built according to plans by the Trier city ​​architect Heinrich Otto Vogel (1898–1994), which included the preserved barrel-vaulted cellars and wall parts of the first wine press house. Vogel was one of the main representatives of the "interpretive preservation of monuments", "which interpreted the old building concept from the spirit and means of our time". Accordingly, the new building is based on the architectural tradition. The coat of arms of those of Metzenhausen and von Hagen, dating back to 1604, is walled in above the entrance next to the alliance coat of arms of Othegraven-Streithagen. "This winery is one of the most beautiful facilities" ( Stuart Pigott ) and fits in harmoniously with the village of Kanzem , series winner of the competition Our village has a future and second winner of the European Village Renewal Prize 2000.

park

The park is listed in an as-built plan from around 1805 as a tree garden with adjoining meadowland. In 1812 the area was transformed into a park. The park was given its present form in the 1950s. It is designed as an English landscape garden and includes an abundance of rare and exotic woody plants that make up a dendrologically extraordinary collection with almost fifty different tree species. In the park there is a ball-crowned memorial obelisk belonging to the Grach and Weißebach families from around 1812.

Wines

Wine price list of the Casino Coblenz company 1908: Canzem J. Weißebach Erben 5 gold marks, Château Lafite 3 gold marks

“At the turn of the 19th to the 20th century, prices were paid for Rieslings from the best locations in the Moselle, Saar and Ruwer that sound almost like a fairy tale today. […] Between 1893 and 1911 , the J. Weißebach Erben winery achieved an average of 2,343 gold marks for a load of around 950 liters from the Canzemer Berg site , today's Altenberg . At today's prices that would be around 25,000 euros. ”The hourly wage of a vineyard worker was 23 pfennigs at the same time, which at today's prices would have been around 2.50 euros. The proceeds from a barrel of wine at that time easily covered the running costs for the entire year.

In the anniversary list of the wines of the civic society Casino Coblenz for its centenary in 1908, a bottle of simple 1904 Canzemer J. Weißebach Erben was offered for 5 gold marks, while a 1893 Château Lafite cost 3 gold marks.

In a newspaper report on April 24, 1925, the third day of the Trier auction of the natural wine auctioneers of the VDNV, later renamed to VDP : “At the spring wine auctions, Saar wines have achieved the highest prices to date. At yesterday's auction in the Kathol. Citizens' association was paid 14,260 Mk. For a batch of Canzemer Berg Auslese from the heirs of J. Weißebach zu Canzem, a price that had not been reached in the local wine-growing region since the inflationary period. "In 2008, this corresponded to a purchase price of a good 56,500 euros, corresponding to a price of over 40 euros for a 0.7 liter bottle.

While Maximilian von Othegraven was sometimes seen as a visionary of high-quality wine, the time of the winery under his widow Maria von Othegraven is often considered to be a "deep sleep" ( Stuart Pigott ). That ignores the conditions at the time: “For viticulture on the Moselle, Saar and Ruwer, the seventies began in several ways. For many years, the grapes were barely ripe, so that wineries, as well as some winemakers, allowed the wine to be used in almost every way, and in some unauthorized ways 'improved' it. In Germany, as in many export markets, sweet Spätlese wines were now 'cult'. Anyone who did not have suitable musts in the cellar could be helped in no time with liquid sugar. Those who did not engage in this fraud were often left behind. ”Even Werner Tyrell, second-degree great-nephew of Anna Maria Weißebach (née Schoemann) and honorary president of the German winegrowers' association, was convicted of wine counterfeiting and had to resign from all offices. His Karthäuserhof winery was excluded from the association for a few years. At that time, the public prosecutor at the Mainz Regional Court conducted 2,600 criminal proceedings for wine adulteration in just five years - just the tip of the iceberg. During this time Maria von Othegraven stuck to the old traditions, especially the absolute purity of nature. Her niece Heidi Kegel, "Grande Dame von der Saar", is attested to having led the winery back to its old size. From 1999 to 2004, she was supported in her development work by Stefan Kraml as operations manager, who then moved to the Maximin Grünhaus winery (here, too, there is an extensive relationship: Renate von Schubert auf Grünhaus, née Freiin von Pechmann , is a descendant of Jauch ).

Acreage and grape varieties

Return from the grape harvest
( fresco by JA Ramboux 1828, cousin of Katharina Weißebach)

The cultivation area is about 12.5 hectares . Von Othegraven is one of the eleven largest of the more than 300 wine-growing businesses on the Saar. The "large estate has always ensured particularly careful maintenance and purity for the Saar wines [...] Of course, the smaller vintners also benefit from this excellent reputation of the Saar wines of great estates." The individual sites are exclusively Saar vineyards in the First Location category : Kanzemer Altenberg, where the estate owns more than 7 hectares of cultivation area, traditionally forms the largest single vineyard, Wiltinger Kupp and Ockfener Bockstein. Only the Riesling grape variety is grown - “exclusively steep slopes, exclusively Riesling” is the management maxim. The soil on the Kanzemer Berg is greenish-gray Devonian - slate - weathered soil with traces of iron oxide, which make the subsoil shimmer reddish. The Kanzemer Berg has a south-south-east orientation .

The hectare yields for the past few years have been reported as 28 to 49 hectoliters per hectare , with average must weights of 87 to 93 degrees Oechsle . Overall, the climate on the Saar is cooler than on the Moselle. The yields that can be achieved here are also lower. The average comparable yields in the Moselle area for the low-yield year 2009 are, for example, 90 hectoliters per hectare.

In addition to wines of the highest classification level Großer Gewächs, the second wine Maximus is produced.

The elongated Kanzemer Altenberg is less sheltered from the wind compared to the cultivation areas on the Central and Lower Moselle. This results in a pronounced steel quality in his wines. With this and with the most pronounced acidity of all regional Rieslings, the Saar wines as a whole, especially typical of the Kanzemer Altenberg, represent one of the extremes of the Saar-Mosel-Ruwer region. The great Johnson judged: "Extremely classic Saarrieslings."

sparkling wine

In addition to Riesling wines, the winery produces the Riesling sparkling wine from Othegraven brut and from Othegraven Prestige brut nature, which are fermented in the bottle, shaken by hand and disgorged using traditional methods.

From Othegraven Logo.png

Awards

From Othegraven is widely recognized as a top winery, more recently, for example, in Eichelmann 2010 at Fine Wines International, the Gault-Millau , the Merano Wine Festival , in Robert Parker's Wine Guide , in Wein-Plus and Wine Spectator.

In 2011 the new design of the wine bottles received the red dot design award .

Quotes

“A gem of a winery that is extremely rare in this quality and with such an attractive location. Jauch continues the more than 200-year family tradition [...] We are looking forward to Mr. Jauch as a new member in our association and are convinced that we have a fellow campaigner for the high quality ideals of the VDP. "

- VDP press release

“At the moment there are two timescales on the Saar: before and after Günther Jauch's arrival. The difference is that many things are easier with Jauch. Among the winemakers he is called "JJ", Joker Jauch. Because of him, everyone is talking about the Saar, this wine region belonging to Rhineland-Palatinate, which stretches along the river from Konz to Serrig for just 30 kilometers. ... With Jauch, life and confidence seem to have returned here. Sons and daughters suddenly want to take over their parents' wineries again, there were years when they were considered a burden. "

- Saar wine region: Joker Jauch

See also

  • Anna Weißebach (1811–1841), founder of the Caritas Conferences in Germany (CKD)

literature

  • Winfried Heinen: Wine Guide. Top wineries on the Moselle, Saar and Ruwer. 1979
  • Richard Laufner and Peter Nilles: History of the Weissebach winery heirs to Kanzem. Kanzem 1959

Web links

Commons : Weingut von Othegraven  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Footnotes

  1. ^ German wine newspaper. Central organ for viticulture and the wine trade. No. 21, November 1, 1874, p. 88
  2. ↑ Informational directory of the cultural monuments in the district of Trier-Saarburg, Mainz undated, p. 11 - online version (PDF file; 1.6 MB)
  3. ^ Entry on the von Othegraven winery in the database of cultural assets in the Trier region ; Retrieved February 4, 2016.
  4. ↑ State ordinance on the "Saar-Hunsrück Nature Park". In: Landesrecht online. Retrieved August 11, 2020 . of February 14, 1980, § 2 (2)
  5. ↑ Saar Riesling e. V .: The Saar vineyards (PDF file; 2.1 MB)
  6. ↑ Bernd Freytag: The most popular German: Günther Jauch becomes a winemaker . In: Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung . February 26, 2010
  7. ^ A b Rainer Schäfer: Saar wine region: Joker Jauch . In: Spiegel Online . April 12, 2012
  8. ^ Viticulture ( memento of August 7, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) on the website of the local community of Kanzem
  9. ↑ Wolfgang Pass: The Saar and its wines ( PDF )
  10. ↑ Heddy Neumeister: A hundred years ago. In: Rheinische Heimatblätter. February 1930, p. 24
  11. ↑ Gerhart Nebinger: Leyen, v. of the. In: New German Biography. 14th volume. Berlin 1985, p. 431
  12. ↑ The other half went to the Count of Kesselstatt . As the von Hoevel winery, the Grachsche part is still in the hands of Emmerich Grach's descendants von Kunow. See entry on Maximinerhofgut in the database of cultural assets in the Trier region ., Hoevel winery ( memento from November 15, 2010 in the Internet Archive )
  13. ^ Hermann Ritter: The Wawerner Herrenberg (Weingut Lintz). Wawern 1924. Emmerich Grach's daughter Anna Johanna Grach (1784–1856) married the publisher and city councilor of Trier Jakob Lintz (1776–1848), who inherited the winery. Cf. Isabel Pies: The History of the Lintz Family Koblenz and Trier 1650-2004 ( online version ( Memento from September 5, 2009 in the Internet Archive ))
  14. ↑ daughter of Adam Baum and Sophie Werhahn, cf. Peter Werhahn - person and family , cf. Totenzettel-online ( memento from July 23, 2007 in the web archive archive.today ) with a portrait
  15. ↑ See Thomas Müller: ( Page no longer available , search in web archives: The end of the Second World War in Wiltingen ). Website of the municipality of Wiltingen@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.wiltingen.de
  16. ↑ Festschrift 100 years of the Großer Ring Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Trier 2008, p. 41
  17. ↑ See Claudia Maas et al .: Heinrich Otto Vogel. Builders in times of upheaval. Catalog for the exhibition of the Episcopal Vicariate General Trier. Trier 1990
  18. ↑ Ulrich Pantle: Concept of Reduction. Contributions to church building in Germany from 1945 to 1950. Dissertation. University of Stuttgart, 2003, p. 376 ( PDF; 1.51 MB )
  19. ↑ The leading winemakers and top wines in Germany. 1997
  20. ↑ Daniel Deckers : A Winninger in Paris. In: Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung . March 17, 2005
  21. ↑ ( page no longer available , search in web archives: online chronicle 1030 to 1900 ) (PDF file; 59 kB) on the website of the local community of Kanzem (year 1895)@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.kanzem.de
  22. ^ Werner Wilhelm Weichelt: Casino Coblenz. 1808-1908. A commemorative book for the centenary. Koblenz 1908
  23. ↑ Festschrift 100 years of the Großer Ring Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Trier 2008, p. 36
  24. ↑ Festschrift 100 years of the Großer Ring Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Trier 2008, p. 45
  25. ↑ Irene Mayer-List: A sweet hand . In: The time . No. 35, August 23, 1985
  26. ^ Herbert Schäfer: Wine scandal: arsenic and asbestos . In: The time . No. 30, July 19, 1985
  27. ↑ Germany: Riesling sparkling wine. In: wein.pur. Edition 06/2008
  28. ↑ ( Page no longer available , search in web archives: Viticulture: New beginning in a steep position ). In: Stuttgarter Zeitung . July 17, 2007, updated on September 5, 2007 ( ( Page no longer available , search in web archives: PDF; 98 KB ))@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / content.stuttgarter-nachrichten.de @1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.von-othegraven.de
  29. ^ Stuart Pigott, Andreas Durst, Ursula Heinzelmann, Chandra Kurt, Manfred Lüer, Stephan Reinhardt: Wine speaks German. Wines, winemakers, wine landscapes. Scherz, Frankfurt 2007, ISBN 978-3-502-19000-4 ( ( page no longer available , search in web archives: PDF; 35 KB ))@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.von-othegraven.de
  30. ↑ a b Wolfgang Pass: The Saar and its wines. In: WEINfaßliches. 186, October 2008 ( PDF; 32 KB )
  31. ↑ Hermann Ritter: The Wawerner Herrenberg. Wawern 1924, p. 13
  32. ↑ Saar & Ruwer - a crooked story. In: wein.pur. 05/2007
  33. ↑ Vintage Reports. 2000-2007
  34. Jump up ↑ Hugh Johnson & Steven Brook: The Great Johnson: The Encyclopedia of Wines, Regions, and Winemakers of the World. 2009, p. 247
  35. ↑ Gerhard Eichelmann: Deutschlands Weine 2010. Heidelberg 2009, p. 665 ( PDF; 514 KB ( Memento from November 11, 2014 in the Internet Archive )): 2008 Riesling GG Altenberg (1st plant) - 92 points, 2008 Riesling dry “Maximus “(2. Gewächs) - 90 points, 2005 Riesling Beerenauslese Kanzem Altenberg - 93 points, 2005 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Kanzem Altenberg - 95 points
  36. ↑ Fine Wines International: Greatest Wine of the Year: 2008 By Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage ( Memento from March 3, 2010 in the Internet Archive )
  37. ↑ Armin Diel & Joel Payne: WeinGuide Germany 2010. Christian, 2009, ISBN 978-3884729564 , p. 389 ( PDF; 311 KB ( Memento from November 11, 2014 in the Internet Archive )): 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben - 90 Points, 2008 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Eiswein - 93 points, 2007 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling - 94 points
  38. ↑ Merano WineFestival & Gourmet: Riesling Award 2009 - Best sweet Riesling: 2007 Riesling Kanzemer Altenberg Trockenbeerenauslese ( Memento from November 11, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) (PDF file; 72 kB)
  39. ↑ Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide. No 7, 2008: 2005 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese Alte Reben - 91 points, 2005 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Dry Berry Selection - 92 points, 2004 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Eiswein - 93 points
  40. ↑ Wein-Plus.eu: Weingut von Othegraven
  41. ↑ 90pluswines.com: 2004 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese (Wine Spectator rating: 93 points)
  42. ↑ Medienagenten received the red dot design award . In: Gourmet Worlds - The pleasure portal. August 1, 2011
  43. ↑ VDP press release: ( Page no longer available , search in web archives: VDP Prädikatsweingüter welcome the inclusion of Günther Jauch ). March 1, 2010 (PDF; 63 kB)@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www.vdp.de

Coordinates: 49 ° 40 ′ 13.2 ″  N , 6 ° 34 ′ 39.9 ″  E