Salzburg old town (right)

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The old town of the city of Salzburg is divided into two parts separated from the Salzach. The right old town , the northeastern part, is younger than the left old town and arose from the bridgehead on the right bank of the Salzach , today's Platzl. The Linzer Gasse to the old Linzertor, the Steingasse (outside of the Inner Stone Gate also called Inner Stone ) and the Outer Stone to the south belong to the old settlement core on the right side of the Salzach . The Dreifaltigkeitsgasse which Makartplatz and the mountain road and its side streets are the right center. Platzl – Linzer Gasse, Makartviertel – Bergstrasse, Mirabell Palace and from there to the Salzach make up the actual district of the Rechts Altstadt. The area lies at the foot of the Kapuzinerberg , with the Bürglstein as a foothill.

The rights old town and the interior and exterior stone Kapuzinerberg and Bürglstein is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Historic Center of Salzburg ( English Historic Center of the City of Salzburg ).

The old town district. East of the Salzach: The right old town

Church building

Sebastian Church

The first church in Linzer Gasse was built from 1505 to 1512 as a Gothic church. Today the Sebastianskirche is a late Baroque hall building that was built between 1749 and 1753 and was probably built according to plans by Kassian Singer . The church was consecrated in 1754. The building has a facade tower that protrudes slightly into Linzer Gasse and is crowned by an onion helmet with a lantern. The portals on the tower ground floor and in the chancel were designed by Franz Anton Danreiter after 1750 . The interior is provided with a barrel vault. The large ceiling fresco and the old altarpiece, both by Paul Troger , were lost in the town fire in 1818. The restoration of the church after 1818 changed the image of the church. The marble high altar was reworked and the altarpiece was rebuilt. Some of the pictures on the side altars are by Johann Michael Sattler , Sebastian Stief or Franz Streicher. The grating of the church by Philipp Hinterseer (1752) that has been preserved is particularly impressive . The older chapel attached to the church, dedicated to Saint Philip Neri, dates from 1684.

Trinity Church

Trinity Church

The Dreifaltigkeitskirche is the largest church building from the time of the prince-archbishop of the inner right town and is located at the upper end of Makartplatz . The church, designed as a central building, was built between 1694 and 1702 and is the first building by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach in Salzburg. Roman sacred buildings served as a model. What is striking about this church is the subtle use of decorative elements, which are subordinate to the overall architectural work. The building was not aimed at Makartplatz, but in what was then a narrow side street between the outer Bergstrasse (now Rainerstrasse) and Linzer Gasse. The archbishop's pawn shop opposite the church was only demolished in 1907. As a result, the central church building swings inwards, creating a small, slightly raised church forecourt in the street. The originally low church towers were raised later to make the church behind the pawnshop easier to recognize (bell floors 1757, tower dome attachments after 1818), but this did not improve the overall appearance of the church. The architectural center of the extensive complex with the two large wing structures of the seminary, which together with the central church form a uniformly composed facade, should rather represent the mighty central drum dome of the church. The figures of the three theological virtues and the figure of Divine Wisdom, created by Bernhard Michael Mandl , stand on the attic in front of the dome above the outer church portal . The large dome fresco inside the church was designed by Johann Michael Rottmayr between 1697 and 1700. The high altar is made according to plans by Fischer von Erlach (created in 1700, revised in 1841, returned to its original state in 1947) and has a plastic group of the Trinity with two worshipers Angels. The adjoining priest house is arranged around two symmetrical courtyards. In the northern inner courtyard, the central fountain with Saint Peter (1741) created by Josef Anton Pfaffinger is worth mentioning. The central fountain in the southern Kolleghof dates from 1857.

Imbergkirche "the two saints John on the mountain"

After the early medieval investiture controversy, the two holy church patrons Johannes were popular symbols of the contemplative and active Christian way of life, i.e. of the hermit and the Christian warrior. The small church below the Capuchin monastery is a small and simple building on the outside. It is essentially Romanesque and was first mentioned in 1319. From 1594 to 1599 the church was used as a monastery church for the Capuchins. In 1681, under Archbishop Max Gandolf von Kuenburg , the church was redesigned in Baroque style, expanded with chapels and given an onion dome. The church was once important as a pilgrimage church and a brotherhood church. The extensive restoration of the church over the past 15 years has led to the rediscovery of the interior, which is neat inside. These renovations are mainly due to Prelate Dr. Thanks to Johannes Neuhardt.

Evangelical Christ Church

Evangelical Christ Church

This Protestant church was built between 1863 and 1867 by Jakob Götz, the same architect who (together with Laschenky) designed the Catholic church of Leopoldskron-Moos. These two churches of different denominations are consequently very similar. 370 prisoners of the Austro-Prussian war had to help build the church. In 1867 the first Protestant church in the state of Salzburg was inaugurated. The church building on Elisabeth-Kai is a historicizing brick building with a facade tower in front of the main entrance and with arched windows and an entrance portal in the Romanesque style. The nave has an open, curved wooden roof structure with ornate coffered elements and underneath a wooden gallery running around three sides of the church. The stained glass windows in the apse were designed by Albert Birkle . After 1945 a “refugee bell” joins the bells “Faith”, “Love” and “Hope”.

Historic secular buildings worth seeing

The Mirabell Palace

Angels on the way to the wedding hall, popular photo opportunity with the bride and groom

Mirabell Palace in the center of Salzburg was built in 1606 by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau as a country residence for the archbishop's lover or secret wife, Salome Alt , and called Altenau Palace. Markus Sittikus gave the castle its current name. Badly damaged by a fire in 1818, the castle was not rebuilt in its old, slender form, but in a sober classical style, the mighty tower in the middle of the east facade was removed. Since 1947 the official seats of the mayor and his deputies and some municipal departments have been housed here. The Georg Raphael Donner staircase, the marble hall and the castle chapel are well worth seeing . The historical gardens of the palace include (in addition to parts that are built in today - e.g. by the Mozarteum University ) the large garden ground floor, the hedge theater, the water bastion and the original dwarf garden.

Lodron's Primogeniture Palace (Old Borromeo)

The monumental building opposite the priest's house was originally built as the palace of Lodron's Primogeniture in 1631 for the Prince Archbishop's family. In the 19th century, the Borromeo Church was built here and the Borromeo was housed in the former palace, a Catholic private school which initially served primarily for priestly candidates and later became a general high school. This educational institution found a new home in Parsch today . In 1971/72 the former palace building and the Borromeo Church were demolished to make way for the university. Only the outer walls of the palace were preserved. The two portals each bear a Paris Lodron coat of arms.

In the Faistauersaal of the university there is now a worth seeing fresco by Anton Faistauer depicting Diana coming home from the hunt, a fresco that comes from the worn out Lederer-Schlössl in Vienna and was transferred here.

In October 1998 there was the closure of the building (suspicion of increased pollution - these are not detectable - building was very densely built - sick building syndrome), a competition in 2002 (only "music" housed in the building), whereby architect Robert Rechnenauer ( Munich) emerged as the winner of the competition. From June 2004 to August 2006 the renovation took place and on December 10, 2006 it was opened as the New Mozarteum.

Remains of old fortifications

see also article fortifications of the city of Salzburg

Most of the city's historic fortifications have not been preserved. The old ring of Basteien with the Bollwerk Vital, the Bollwerk St. Virgil (today Kurgarten), the Bollwekr St. Heinrich and, as a half-bastion, the Bollwekr St. Sebastian was razed and can only be seen in the ring road between Franz-Josefstraße and Auerspergstraße. From the time of the first fortification of the city (around 1280):

  • A remains of the city wall in a courtyard on Lederergasse (Lederergasse 1 and 3)
  • the well-preserved part of the defensive wall west of the Franziskuspforte with preserved battlements (Linzer Gasse 14)

From the time of the 2nd city fortifications (around 1470–1490):

  • Remains of the defensive wall (city wall) in Paris-Lodronstrasse as a road-side boundary wall at the Loreto monastery

From the time of the 3rd city fortifications (1621–1646, time of the Thirty Years War):

  • Defense wall procession on the Kapuzinerberg with the largely preserved 2 km long defense wall (small parts of it go back to the time of the 2nd fortification)
  • The Felix Gate on the Kapuzinerberg
  • The Franziskischlössl on the Kapuzinerberg
  • The inner stone gate
  • The water bastion in the Mirabell Gardens and the defensive wall that bounds the hedge theater to the west, which - also heavily filled in at the base - continues behind the Mozarteum (foundation building and large hall).

Remarkable historical streets and squares

Linzer Gasse

In the time of the prince-archbishop, Linzer Gasse was the old main street of the right bank of the city of Salzburg and the arterial road to the east towards (Nieder-) Gnigl, where the historic road forks and on the one hand to Graz (Grazer Reichsstrasse, part of the "Eisenstrasse") and on the other to Linz or Austria (Linzer Reichsstrasse) led. The first finds in this street date back to Roman times. Today it has a closed stock of medieval houses and houses from the 16th century, many of which are directly connected to the rock of the Kapuzinerberg in the south. The Sebastian-Bruderhaus there was donated in 1496 and probably built in 1532. After severe bomb damage, it was rebuilt in 1951. Along with the Bürgerspital and later the Johanns-Spital, the Bruderhof was the city's most important social foundation, serving the poor and the sick. From the late 19th century onwards, it served as the headquarters of the volunteer fire brigade and their rescue department, and then the professional fire brigade.

The right old town and the new town in winter. In the background Kapuzinerberg with monastery

Next to it once stood the bath house, the core of which dates from the 16th century. Paracelsus also worked in the house . On the other side of the Bruderhaus, the Oberascher bell foundry worked in the 19th century until 1919 , and since 1724 it had been the closest in Glockengasse.

In front of the Linzertor (formerly Ostertor), the city gate at the eastern end of Linzer Gasse, the gallows stood until 1599, which is why the city gate was also called Galgentor.

Steingasse

The Steingasse is a very old road and was already part of the old Roman road. Until the 19th century, this Steingasse was a poorly maintained suburban street. Mainly poor people lived in this alley. Mainly the white tanners worked here on the salt axis side until the middle of the 18th century . Outside the stone gate in the fresh air corridor of the Salzach they were allowed to practice their smell-intensive craft.

The Steingasse is divided into two parts: the inner stone was the street section including the settlement area between the two stone gates. Outside the Outer Stone Gate, the Outer Stone joined the edge of the slope of the Kapuzinerberg.

The old Engelwirtshaus, which is located “outside the Bruggen” and now houses “Das Kino”, is also known here. The city bridge had been at this point since at least the early 14th century, until Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau moved the city bridge to its current location in 1598.

Space

The Platzl

Since 1598 the Platzl on the right bank has formed the bridgehead over the Salzach. Archbishop Wolf Dietrich had some houses demolished in order to give the new space on the bridge a representative appearance. But before that, the “market across the bridge” for the residents of the legal city was located here. The small green market was here until 1862. In 1908 the old "Zellereck" on the Platzl was torn down to improve the flow of traffic from Dreifaltigkeitsgasse and Linzer Gasse to Platzl.

Paracelsus spent the last year of his life in house number 3 at Platzl (1540/41).

Historic cemeteries and gardens

Mirabell Gardens

The baroque garden was laid out by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach and changed by Anton Danreiter around 1730 . The marble balustrade with its vases was also designed by Fischer von Erlach. The ancient statues on the balustrades were created in 1689. Four groups of figures are arranged around the central fountain basin, "Rape of Proserpina ", "Rape of Helena ", " Aeneas and Anchises " and " Anthaeus ". The two Georgian fencing pairs at the entrance to the city are historical copies.

The winged horse Pegasus in the fountain of the same name was originally part of Kapitelschwemme, then moved to Mirabellplatz to Mirabellschwemme and came to its present location in 1913. The lions appearing in pairs and the unicorns probably come from the Klessheim palace gardens. The orangery with the adjoining palm house was built around 1725. The small elongated hedge theater with its symmetrical paths bordered by cut wood and its central open spaces was built on the Lodron defense wall between 1704 and 1718 and is still used today for small theater performances or concerts. The water bastion is a small pre-bastion and the last remnant of the once mighty Lodron bastion. The base of this preserved weir system was heavily filled in after 1860. The well-known marble dwarfs are currently temporarily set up here. The historic dwarf garden in front of the water bastion was destroyed in the early 19th century and can be restored to its original Baroque style using old plans. A large part of the 28 originally known grotesque marble dwarfs, which were made around 1695 but were sold in 1811, can be placed on pedestals.

Sebastian Cemetery

The Sebastian Cemetery

The Sebastian cemetery is based on the model of the Italian Campi Santi next to the Church of St. Sebastian. It was commissioned by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau from the Italian master builder Andrea Berteleto and built between 1600 and 1605. Before that there was the small cemetery next to the Bruderhof and the Gothic St. Sebastian's Church and, even earlier, a plague cemetery.

The builder of the cemetery died in 1602 and was the first to be buried in the churchyard. The Wolf Dietrich Mausoleum, which was intended for him during the Archbishop's lifetime, was built in the middle of the cemetery in 1597–1603 and is dedicated to St. Gabriel. The archbishop, who died in 1617 after being detained for a long time, was buried here in a sarcophagus. The chapel was built by Elias Calello. The inner wall of the rotunda is clad with colorful square tiles, the dome with rhombic tiles. A high triumphal arch shows the coat of arms of Wolf Dietrich. The altar also bears the archbishop's coat of arms. The statues on the side are probably made by Josef Anton Pfaffinger .

The father and wife of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart , Genoveva Weber (mother Carl Maria von Weber ), and Theophrast von Hohenheim, better known as Paracelsus, are also buried in this cemetery.

Old monasteries

Loreto convent of the Capuchin Sisters

A pilgrimage monastery well known abroad is the Loreto Monastery on Paris-Lodron-Strasse. When the King of Sweden invaded Bavaria in the Thirty Years' War and occupied Munich in 1632, the nuns of the Landshut women's convent , who belong to the third order of St. Francis, fled to Salzburg and asked for protection and help. In 1637 the new monastery was inaugurated with significant support from the archbishop. In 1800, during the time of the French occupation, the monastery was demonstratively a soldiers' accommodation and warehouse. The monastery has been threatened with closure several times in history. Badly damaged by bombs during World War II, the monastery was rebuilt in 1946.

The "Loretokindl" created around 1620, a small carved ivory figure in a precious garment set with gemstones, which came to the monastery around 1650, is particularly attractive. The crown, scepter and cross were made from jewelry from noble donors. Since 1731 the monastery has had its own altar for the miraculous image, where it is exposed at certain festive times. This house of God is a special place of worship and refuge for many pious. So it becomes understandable that this particular church is frequently visited at all times of the day.

Capuchin monastery

View from Rudolfskai

In response to Luther's Reformation, Wolf Dietrich brought the Capuchins to Salzburg as the second mendicant order after the Franciscans in 1596 . The monastery church on Kapuzinerberg was consecrated in 1602 in honor of Saints Francis of Assisi and Johannes Bonaventure . In 1620 the monastery was enlarged for the first time, and in 1690 it had to be expanded again. Over the centuries, religious remained independent from the sovereign and bishop, they were only subordinate to the Pope. In addition to providing the food, the archbishop took care of the monastery brothers.

Prince Archbishop Hieronymus von Colloredo was no friend of the mendicant orders. He divided the Capuchin Order Province Tyrol-Salzburg and expelled the Tyrolean friars. In 1810/11 the monastery was confiscated by the French and the monastery garden was used as a horse pasture. In 1813 the Bavarians occupied the monastery. In 1939 the monastery and church were expropriated during the National Socialist era. It should be torn down to make room for the planned gigantic Gauforum. After the friars returned in 1945, refugees lived in the church for a long time. The last extensive renovation of the monastery took place in 1980–1983. At that time, the old angel fountain cistern and old arched portals were discovered and restored as jewels of the monastery. Today, as a novitiate , the monastery is an important training center for the Capuchins for the entire German-speaking area.

Right old town today

The Neustadt, including the old settlement center around Linzer Gasse and Steingasse, is also an important business location today. Many retail stores are located in Linzer Gasse in particular.

The Great Hall of the Mozarteum Foundation

The building of the Old Mozarteum, in which the Mozarteum Foundation has its headquarters, is located on Schwarzstrasse in this part of the city, created in 1914 by the Munich architect Richard Berndl . The Vienna Hall, which serves as a small concert hall, is also located in this building.

Immediately next to it is the building designed by the same architect for the Great Hall of the Mozarteum. The back of these buildings look into the Mirabell Gardens. On the opposite side of this garden is the building of the University of Music and Performing Arts Mozarteum , which has returned to its former location since 2007 after several years of renovation. The building has been completely redesigned keeping historical heritage in mind.

literature

  • Lieselotte v. Eltz-Hoffmann: Salzburger Brunnen , publisher of the series "Kulturgut der Heimat", Salzburg City Association, Salzburg 1979
  • Lieselotte v. Eltz-Hoffmann: The churches of Salzburg , Verlag Anton Pustet, Salzburg 1993, ISBN 3-7025-0308-0
  • Heinz Dopsch & Robert Hoffmann: History of the City of Salzburg , Verlag Anton Pustet, Salzburg 1976, ISBN 3-7025-0340-4
  • Monika Oberhammer: Pustets Klosterführer , Verlag Anton Pustet, Salzburg 1998, ISBN 3-7025-0374-9
  • Bernd Euler, Ronald Gobiet, Horst Huber: DEHIO Salzburg - Stadt und Land , Verlag Anton Schroll & Co Vienna, Vienna 1986, ISBN 3-7031-0599-2

Web links

  • Entry on the UNESCO World Heritage Center website ( English and French ).

Coordinates: 47 ° 48 '  N , 13 ° 3'  E