Thierry Mugler

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Thierry Mugler (2014)

Manfred Thierry Mugler [ tjɛʁi myɡˈlɛʁ ] (born December 21, 1948 in Strasbourg – † January 23, 2022 in Paris ) was a French fashion designer and photographer . He was the founder of the Paris-based fashion and cosmetics company Thierry Mugler SAS , which has been wholly owned by Clarins since 1997 . In 2019, employee representatives from L'Oréaland the Clarins Group signed an agreement to sell the Mugler brand. With the conclusion of this agreement, L'Oréal acquired Clarins' Fragrances division and thus the Mugler brand and Thierry Mugler (fashion).

Live and act

childhood and education

Manfred Thierry Mugler was born in 1948, the son of a doctor , into a family originally from Linz , Austria , who had moved to Strasbourg in the post-war turmoil. After a difficult childhood in the rather illiberal, cramped climate of the 1950s and 1960s in Alsace , France, Mugler trained as a ballet dancer at the Opéra national du Rhin at the age of fourteen and studied costume design at the École supérieure des Arts Décoratifs in Strasbourg (since 2011: Haute École des Arts du Rhin, HEAR ). In his free time he designed his own clothes .

company formation

A Thierry Mugler rainbow dress on display at the Indianapolis Museum of Art
A Thierry Mugler evening dress in the museum
The men's perfume A*Men (not Angel Men) was launched by Thierry Mugler in 1996.

In the late 1960s, Mugler moved to Paris and traveled the world. In the early 1970s, Mugler shared an apartment in Paris with his colleague Claude Montana . At the same time, as a freelance designer, he exhibited his designs in the boutique Gudule . In 1973 he created his first collection under the name Café de Paris . Mugler founded the fashion company Thierry Mugler in 1974. He opened his first boutique in 1978 in Paris on the Place des Victoires . In the same year, Mugler presented menswear for the first time. For a television appearance by David Bowie with Klaus Nomi and Joey Arias in 1979, Mugler designed their stage costumes.

In an interview, Mugler stated that he grew up with the music of Beethoven , Mozart , Wagner . Many of his dramatic, almost armament -like and opulently defensive costumes from the 1980s are strongly inspired and influenced by the heroine image of women in Wagner operas and German heroic epics. Motifs of LGBT iconography also inspired the openly homosexual designer's creations. Dramatic, often futuristic designs, accentuated small waists and accessories such as metallic brassieres , huge shoulder pads , studs and latex were Mugler's trademarks. His high-priced prêt-à-porter fashion of the following two decades was mostly elegant, exalted and at the same time austere, with dominant colors and without many patterns.

expansion

The 1980s and early 1990s were the heyday of the House of Mugler. In 1994, the second line Mugler was added to the fashion portfolio, for which the then unknown Nicolas Ghesquière was hired as a designer. Mugler's fashion shows were staged happenings . He made his fashion show in the Paris concert hall Zénith on the occasion of the tenth anniversary in 1984 public and sold 6000 tickets. From 1992, Mugler was invited to present his women's fashion at the haute couture fashion shows as an invited member of the Paris Fashion Association. In the early 1990s, alongside celebrities such as Jerry Hall , Diana Ross and Ivana Trump , supermodels of the time Linda Evangelista , Claudia Schiffer , Christy Turlington , Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell appeared at Mugler's fashion shows.

From 1992 Mugler worked together with the French cosmetics company Clarins and in the following years developed various perfumes for men and women via Thierry Mugler Parfums SA , which was founded in 1990, including the successful Angel fragrance (since 1992). In 1998, more copies of the women's fragrance Angel were sold in France than Chanel No. 5 . Since then, over a hundred other perfumes or variations on previous Thierry Mugler fragrances have been released (some limited editions or discontinued), including A*men (1996), Alien (2005) and Alien Man (2018) and Aura (2017), as well as one Range of unisex colognes (2018). Clarins also took a financial stake in Mugler's fashion company from 1992.

descent of the brand

At the end of the 1990s, in the era of minimalist fashion , the extravagant fashion brand Mugler lost its appeal. As a result, in 1997 the cosmetics group Clarins Fragrance Group (including perfume licensees from Loris Azzaro , Porsche Design and Swarovski ) took over 100 percent of the Thierry Mugler brand.

Clarins dissolved the Thierry Mugler Couture fashion division in 2002 after high losses and closed all 14 Mugler boutiques (including in Hamburg). A manufacturing facility and four stores were sold to Balmain in 2003 . In 1999, Mugler had already not taken part in the Paris ready-to-wear fashion shows, and in 2000 Thierry Mugler had bowed on the catwalk for the last time at the haute couture shows. In 2001, the cheaper and licensed jeans line Only Thierry Mugler was launched alongside the haute couture fashion line Thierry Mugler Couture in the upper price segment for women and the high-priced ready-to-wear line Mugler for men and women. The perfume business continued after the end of the fashion division, Thierry Mugler himself remained artistic director of the Mugler perfume division at Clarins until 2013.

revival of the brand

In 2006, Clarins decided to revive the Mugler fashion division. In 2008, the designer Rosemary Rodriguez was engaged, who showed her first collection under the name Thierry Mugler Edition 2009. The Thierry Mugler Beauty division with decorative cosmetics was launched in 2008 . In 2010, a production license for men's fashion was granted to the Italian clothing manufacturer Inghirami. Rodriguez was succeeded in 2010 by Nicola Formichetti, previously Lady Gaga 's stylist, who shortened the fashion brand's official name to Mugler in 2011. From 2011, Mugler was again represented at the Paris fashion shows for men and women with a catwalk presentation. In 2012 a line of handbags was launched. Sébastien Peigné was responsible for women's fashion until 2013, while Romain Kremer headed the men's fashion department.

After retiring from fashion in 2002, Thierry Mugler had created stage costumes for Cirque du Soleil (2003) and Beyoncé Knowles (2009), among others. In spring 2013, he returned to his former company and was hired as a consultant for the fashion division of Mugler at Clarins. He also ran a design company called Le Studio Mugler . In mid-2013, a license agreement was reached with the Italian fashion manufacturer Ittierre regarding the Mugler collections. Formichetti joined Diesel in late 2013 . Peigné and Kremer left the company. Men's fashion has been discontinued. As of December 2013, Georgian David Koma was chief designer at Mugler. At the end of 2017, the house of Mugler appointed American Casey Cadwallader, previously a designer at Marc Jacobs , Loewe (Madrid) , Narciso Rodriguez and Acne Studios , as creative head of Mugler fashion.

From March to September 2019, the Musée des beaux-arts de Montréal hosted a Mugler retrospective called Thierry Mugler: Couturissme, which was also attended by Manfred Thierry Mugler. In 2020 the exhibition was shown in the Kunsthalle Munich , in 2021/2022 in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris .

Works as an author and director

Mugler published two books (1988 and 1999) and made music videos (including "Too Funky" for George Michael ). In the early 2000s, he moved to New York City , changed his appearance through plastic surgery and bodybuilding , and since 2007 he has called himself Manfred instead of Thierry.

At the end of 2013, Mugler presented his cabaret program Mugler's Follies in Paris, and on October 23, 2014 the new Grand Show of the Friedrichstadt-Palast in Berlin , The Wyld - Not From This World , celebrated its world premiere, for which Thierry Mugler worked as a writer and director .

death

Thierry Mugler died on January 23, 2022 at the age of 73. According to a spokesman, Mugler's passing was unexpected as he was set to announce new collaborations days later.

literature

web links

Commons : Thierry Mugler  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

itemizations

  1. ↑ L'Oréal signs deal to acquire Mugler and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group. October 29, 2019, accessed January 6, 2021 (German).
  2. ↑ FashionNetwork com UK: L'Oréal completes acquisition of Mugler and Azzaro from Clarins. Retrieved January 6, 2021 .
  3. ↑ Strange Party Report - The East Village Eighties Remembered . In: mothernyc.com , accessed February 17, 2017.
  4. ↑ Elle Portraits: Mugler . In: elle.de , retrieved on January 23, 2014.
  5. ↑ Jacob Bernstein: Thierry Mugler, Genre-Busting French Fashion Designer, Dies at 73 . In: The New York Times . 24 January 2022, ISSN  0362-4331 ( nytimes.com [accessed 24 January 2022]).
  6. ↑ Thierry Mugler is back after a decade in the fasion wilderness . In: telegraph.co.uk , 21 May 2009.
  7. ↑ Voguepedia - Thierry Mugler. In: vogue.com . April 10, 2009, archived from the original on February 2, 2014 ; Retrieved February 15, 2017 (English).
  8. ↑ Thierry Mugler returns to Mugler fashion house . In: stylebook.de , April 24, 2013.
  9. ↑ David Koma joins Mugler as creative director . In: vogue.de , December 13, 2013.
  10. ↑ Thierry Mugler presente à Montréal sa toute première exposition . In: centpourcent-vosges.fr , 26 February 2019.
  11. ↑ Andrew Belonsky: Thierry Mugler Transforms Himself Into A Monster . In: Queerty.com , June 4, 2007. Retrieved February 15, 2017.
  12. ↑ Mugler: Le mythe et le secret – C à vous – 28/04/2017 . In: youtube.com , accessed September 16, 2019.
  13. ↑ Thierry Mugler's cabaret show in Paris . In: vogue.de , December 23, 2013.
  14. ↑ French fashion designer Thierry Mugler dies. In: Zeit.de. January 24, 2022, retrieved January 24, 2022 .
  15. ↑ Fashion designer Thierry Mugler is dead. In: n-tv.de. January 24, 2022, retrieved January 24, 2022 .
personal data
SURNAME Mugler, Thierry
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer
BIRTH DATE December 21, 1948
PLACE OF BIRTH Strasbourg
DATE OF DEATH January 23, 2022
PLACE OF DEATH Paris