Giudicarie
Giudicarie (German Judicaria ) is the name given to the valley landscapes of the northern Italian Alps northwest of Lake Garda , on the upper Sarca and the upper Chiese between the Adamellomassiv , Brenta Group and the northwestern Lake Garda mountains . They lie west of Trento and form the valley community ( Italian Comunità di valle ) Comunità delle Giudicarie in Trentino , Italy .
Origin of name
The term “judiciary”, in Italian Giudicárie , means “judicial district” and goes back to legal practice of the Middle Ages. In a testament of the Veronese bishop Notecherius from the year 927, there is talk of the Judicaria Summa Laganensis , which covered a far larger territory and described territorial divisions that were still adopted by the Lombards from the military orders of the late Roman period. The Judicaria Summa Laganensis was reduced to the current extent of the seven districts (" Le Sette Pievi delle Giudicarie ") in a purchase agreement between the Bishop of Trento and the Scaliger Mastino II in 1349 , because the rest (the areas of Riva and Tenno , Ledro , Arco and the Cavedine Valley) was ceded to the Skaliger. The entire territory has been under the Trento march since 927 and the prince-bishops of Trento since 1027.
In the usual language of the country, even today between the “Inner Judicaria”, in Italian Giudicarie interiori with the Valle di Campiglio , the Val Rendena , the basin of Tione ( la busa ), the Val di Breguzzo and the Valle del Chiese to Lake Idro and the “Outer Judiciaries”, in Italian Giudicarie esteriori with the areas of Bleggio , Banale and Lomaso. Other classifications, such as “Lower Judiciary” or “Middle Judiciary”, emerged much later for economic or tourist reasons.
Position and extent
In the north and west, the mountains of the Adamello-Presanella Alps form the border with Val di Sole and Val Camonica . In the northeast, the border with the lower part of Val di Sole and Val di Non runs through the Brenta massif to the Andalo hill , and in the east the ridge of Paganella and Monte Gazza up to the Limarò gorge in front of Toblino forms the border. South of it the steep into the Sarca Valley and the writing Garda mountains belonging Montecasale continued border demarcation. The border runs through the Ledro Mountains over the 732 m high Ballino Pass, located north of Lake Tenno , up to its westward sloping mountain flanks to the Valle del Chiese , where these flatter and inconspicuous ridges form the border to the Ledro Valley . A large part of the judiciary is located in the Parco regional dell 'Adamello and Parco naturale Adamello-Brenta , the largest contiguous protected area in the Alps.
Topographical
If you draw the directions of the main traffic arteries through the judiciary on a piece of paper, you can easily see that the result has the shape of a letter "H" inclined to the right, the vertical bars of which are of different lengths. The one on the right is roughly modeled on road 421, which connects the Val di Non along Lake Molveno through the Banale and Lomaso over the Ballino Pass with Riva del Garda and reproduces the Outer Judiciary. The left vertical arm, i.e. the Inner Judicaria, is formed from the north by the valley of the Campiglio, the Rendena valley, the valley of the Arnò south of Tione and the valley of the Chiese. The crossbar is formed by the old panoramic road along the northern slope of the Sarca Valley to Stenico and the valley road past the reservoir of Ponte Pià through the Scaléta to Ponte Arche and the connection from Tione over the Durone Pass to Bleggio Superiore .
The Valleys of the Inner Judiciaries
The Val di Campiglio
The road over the 1682 m high Passo Campo Carlo Magno is the only north-south traffic connection between the Val di Sole and the valleys of the Inner Judicaria. The English mountaineer and travel writer Douglas William Freshfield described in his work The Italian Alps in 1875 how he found nothing but a meadow with a pilgrimage church with a hospice and a herd during an earlier visit to the place where Madonna di Campiglio later developed I found cows at a feeding station. A top-class presence from the circles of the Habsburg and European nobility helped make this place one of the most famous tourist destinations in Trentino as early as the end of the 19th century.
The body of water in this valley is called Sarca di Nambino or Sarca di Campiglio . It is one of the three source rivers determined by convention, all of which originate in the Adamello-Presanella area on the orographic right. South of Madonna di Campiglio, after the village of Sant'Antonio di Mavignola, this source river takes up the Sarca di Nambrone from the approximately 9 km long and car-shaped Val Nambrone. This valley is separated from the Valle di Campiglio by the mountain range of Monte Nambrone - Monte Serodoli. On the right-hand side, the brooks from the Vallesinella, Brenta and Valàgola valleys come from the Brenta massif to Pinzolo .
The Val Rendena
At Carisolo the valley floor is level. On the right side of the Rhendena valley, the wide funnel of the valley entrance opens into the Val di Genova , which squeezes 17 km between the mountain ranges of the Presanella and the Adamello, and which can come up with waterfalls on the left and right, of which those of Nardis are probably the best known are. On a ledge on the northern edge of the valley stands the little church of Santo Stefano, which was impressively painted by Simone Baschenis.
The Baschenis were a wandering family of painters who came from Averaria near Bergamo and within a period of 100 years between 1461 and 1547 they beautified many churches in the Judiciary, Val di Sole and Val di Nons. Simone, Cristoforo and Dionisio Baschenis were the most famous representatives of this dynasty. Their clients were the parishes or the brotherhoods of the Battuti , a congregation of lay brothers. In their paintings they depicted themes that reflect the expectations of the valley dwellers very well and express traditional representation schemes in their fresh and clear choice of colors. In this way they achieve an original effect that creates a synthesis of Gothic iconography and that of the Renaissance, enriched with lively folk elements. The Vigilius Church of Pinzolo with its dance of death by Simone Baschenis is probably the best known example.
At Pinzolo , the third source river of the Sarca , the Sarca di Genova from the Val di Genova , joins the others and from here forms the Sarca without any additions. At the end of Pinzolo in the direction of Tione there is a monument created by frà Silvio Bottes in 1968, al Moleta , dedicated to the scissors grinder, to commemorate those craftsmen of Val Rendena who used to travel all over the world with their whetstone on wheels to make a living with the Earning knife and scissors grinding. In addition, there were the segantini , the wandering sawmill workers and the sausage manufacturers from Caderzone and Strembo, who did the same as the scissor grinders and in a sense became an export hit and a trademark of the Rendena Valley.
In Caderzone , the next larger town after the villages of Giustino and Massimeno , the family of the Counts Lodron , who ruled the entire area of the rear Judiciary for several centuries, left the Palazzo Bertelli. The clan was anything but squeamish in its exercise of power, and Marco da Caderzone, an illegitimate son of Giorgio I from the line of Castel Lodron and a particularly violent representative of this sex, achieved notoriety at the end of the 15th century for his ruthless assaults . On an alluvial cone north of Caderzone stands the Maso Curio , a unique, unusually large farm from the 14th century, which is a real sight.
From the hillside settlement of Bocenago on the left side of the valley, the next villages, Strembo , Mortaso and Spiazzo can be overlooked. From Spiazzo a road branches off, which climbs the left slope and leads over the 1168 m high pass of Daone into the Val Manéz and to Preore east of Tione.
In front of the village of Pelugo you will find a church painted by the Baschenis. It is located in a cemetery and is dedicated to St. Anthony the Abbot. It is located near the mouth of the Val di Borzago, which is drained by the Rio Pedù di Pelugo . This is a side valley on the right, which is dominated in the background by the Carè Alto belonging to the Adamello massif . The area of the refuge of the same name was an important logistics area for the Austrian army during the First World War. A good part of the valley is accessed by a road that starts from Borzago, a district of Spiazzo.
Another right side valley is the Val di San Valentino , which is drained by the Rio Pedù di San Valentino , which flows into the main valley at Villa Rendena . The road into this side valley, however, branches off at Vigo Rendena . The main valley is very densely populated in this area, because the villages flow into one another almost without any contours. Before Villa Rendena, these are the villages of Darè and Iavrè and then the hamlet of Verdesina on a slope terrace that cannot be seen from the valley road. The Rio Finale flows into the Sarca just below Verdesina . It forms the border between the Val Rendena and the Tione basin .
The basin ( la busa ) of Tione
The town of Tione di Trento is the capital of the Inner Judiciary, has a hospital and is home to numerous local authorities. A devastating major fire in 1895 robbed the site of most of the old buildings, so that only the southernmost part was able to retain the character from earlier times.
At Tione, the Sarca valley turns east and narrows noticeably to the Ponte Pià reservoir. On the left side of the river on the sunny slope are the two small villages Preore and Ragoli . From Preore a winding road leads to the small fractions of the municipality of Montagne Cort, Larzana and Binio and into the Val Manéz. Not far from Ragoli, another long side valley flows into the main valley, the Val d'Algone . The road runs far above the river along the slope to Stenico .
On the southern bank of the Sarca, across from Preore, are the small town of Saone and, on a slope terrace, the towns of Bolbeno and Zuclo. From the latter place a road leads over the 1000 m high Durone Pass to Bleggio Superiore.
The valley of the Arnò
In the Tione basin, the Sarca picks up the Arnò flowing in from the south, which rises in the Val di Breguzzo and is turned north by the watershed on the Bondo saddle, 823 m high, past the village of Breguzzo . The stream flowing from the small Val Gaverdina opposite also shares this fate and is absorbed by the Arnò at Bondo.
In the locality of Breguzzo you can see the remains of the “ Rocca di Breguzzo ” , which in the Middle Ages was subordinate to the bishops of Trento and then the Lodron and which once played an important role in the safety of through traffic. Such walls are more common further south in the Chiese valley, but are completely absent in the Rendena valley. Breguzzo and the village of Bondo , which lies on the flat meadow saddle , used to belong to the Pieve di Tione. The headquarters of the Austro-Hungarian Army Command for the Adamello Front during the First World War was in Bondo. On their initiative, a military cemetery was set up there for around 700 fallen from this section of the front.
The Valle del Chiese
The valley south of the Bondo saddle is the valley of the Chiese, although the river of the same name has its source in Val Daone and thus only reaches the bottom of the main valley further south. The Adanà drains this upper part of the valley. It rises in Val Bondone, which leads into the Adamello Group near the village of Roncone next to the small lake of the same name . The church of Santo Stefano is worth a visit because of the artistically designed and carved organ gallery.
The valley narrows towards the next town and at Lardaro, history has left three Austrian forts: Larino, Danzolino and Revegler. Even during the Napoleonic era, French troops marched through here with arson, and the attacks by Lombard militants in 1848 prompted the Austrian generals to build their first fortifications. But when in 1859 the border with Italy was moved to the front door, as it were, the army command got serious and built a military barrier at this strategically favorable location within a very short time, which was difficult to overcome for the time.
After Agrone, a fraction of the former independent municipality Pieve di Bono , the valley slopes slightly and widens into the long Daone valley at the fork in the valley. The districts Strada, Creto and Cologna are in the valley low, the fraction Por on a hill on the left side of the valley. The castle hill of Castel Romano rises up along the road to Por. The castle was one of the main residences of the Counts of Lodron from the 14th century. What remains of the once mighty complex are still majestic-looking wall ruins of huge dimensions. The hill of Por offers a wide all-round view of the villages in the entrance area of the Daone valley ( Bersone , Daone , Praso and Sevror), of the high plateau of Boniprati above the village of Prezzo with the districts of Dos and Cistel and of the mountains of the Adamello- Group. The next village in the valley floor is Cimego . From there a winding road leads up the right slope to Castel Condino . The long valley of the Giulis, also called Valle Aperta, branches down into the slopes of the Adamello Mountains.
In the Third Italian War of Independence in 1866, around 40,000 Garibaldine militants penetrated into this area , against whom the Austrian troops had lost out in the battles for Monte Suello and Condino and in the battle of Bezzecca in the Ledro Valley . Garibaldi was already preparing to advance further towards Trento when he received the order of the Commander-in-Chief of the Piedmontese Army La Marmora in Bezzecca to withdraw from the Trentino because of the truce that has now been concluded. With a telegram with the now famous single word “ Obbedisco! ” ( “ I obey ” ) Garibaldi reluctantly bowed to this command.
Condino is the second largest town in the valley after Storo, which is further south . A winding road leads to Brione . It is a charming mountain village on the right side of the valley and at 893 m it is the highest place in the valley. In Condino the Baschenis have left their mark on the church of San Rocco (great Christoforus) and in the little Laurentius church high on the left side of the valley.
The valley widens before Storo. It is on the left side of the valley, where the entrance to the narrow Val d'Ampola forms a funnel in the steep rock walls. A road leads through this side valley northeast over the Ampola Pass into the Ledro Valley. It is drained by the Palvico , which rises in the small Ampola lake . The remains of the Austrian fortress Ampola, which played a role in the Garibaldine invasion in 1866, can still be found in the valley. On the right side of the Chiesetal are the fractions of the municipality of Storo Darzo and Lodrone. From the locality of Lodrone, the Lodron family began their centuries-long expansion. Her ancestral castle, Santa Barbara, stands on the mountainside, and her mansion, Villa Baviera, in the village, was inhabited by the descendants of a branch of this family until shortly after the Second World War. About 5 km further west on the ridge of the valley entrance into the Caffaro valley lies the Riccomassimo fraction, a small hillside settlement.
The southern end of Lodrone lies on the banks of the Caffaro River , which comes out of the Bagolino Valley and forms the border with the province of Brescia . Ponte Caffaro on Lake Idro is located in the administrative area of Brescia. Further south, high above the eastern shore of the lake, there is another Lodron castle, San Giovanni, next to the village of Bondone .
The Landscapes of the Outer Judiciaries
The Sarca River turns east at Tione and maintains this direction for about 25 km. He breaks his way through the short and deep gorge of scaleta in Stenico and torments after Ponte Arche, Comano Terme roaring through the canyon several kilometers long of Limarò to Sarche, where he's running in the wide valley furrow of the Valle dei Laghi the back South to end it in Lake Garda.
The Outer Judicariums present themselves as wide, elongated valley basins, the gently sloping plateaus and hills of which are dotted with numerous villages and surrounded by mountain ranges that have no sharp contours. This part of the Judiciary is very similar to the Val di Non north of the Brenta. From above, hardly anything can be seen of the deeply cut courses of the rather small streams. The transitions into the neighboring valleys (Ballino Pass, Durone Pass, the Andalo saddle, the Limarò) can only be guessed at. The stream bed of the Sarca also forms a barely visible dividing line from a bird's eye view, which separates the Banale in the north from the Lomaso and Bleggio in the south. The plateaus south of the Sarca are separated from the Duina brook, which drains the Val Marcia in the southwest, into the Lomaso to the east and the Bleggio to the west.
The Bleggio
There are numerous small villages next to each other in Bleggio. The municipality's capital is Santa Croce and is located in the Bleggio Superiore. In a Roman inscription fragment that was found here, a "Sextus Blegina" is mentioned, meaning Sextus from Bleggio. The Bleggio Superiore is separated from the Bleggio Inferiore by a slope. There, on the " dosso della vedova " near the hamlet of Vergonzo, the poorly restored remains of the Restor castle, which was built in the 13th century by the Counts Arco and together with the Castel Spine in Lomaso opposite, are their important defensive bases in this Against the Lords of Campo and against the Lodron. The road over the Durone Pass (altitude 1000 m ) to Tione offers hardly any view from the top and from the densely wooded western ramp. From the east ramp, the Bleggio and Lomaso can be overlooked in several places. The Malga Stabio is not far above the pass.
The Lomaso
The municipality of Fiavé is located in the south of the Lomaso. In addition to the main town, it also includes the Ballino, Favrio and Stumiaga factions. Ballino lies on the saddle of the same name, over which a road connection leads to Riva del Garda. In Ballino, a large number of the inhabitants have German-speaking ancestors who, after the plague epidemic of 1630, filled the gaps that the black death tore in the population through gradual immigration. This is probably why the young Andreas Hofer lived and worked in this place for three years (1785–88) in order to get to know the Italian language and the Welsh Tyrol. The “ Camerona di Ballino ” , a large karst cave up on the mountain , is hiked and visited by tourists .
Fiavè is best known in archaeological circles because of the many finds in the Torbiera, a peat bog south of the village that arose from Lake Carera. Settlement activities in a pile dwelling settlement during a period from 2300 to 1200 BC were documented here. Behind Favrio, the Val Lomasone forms a wonderful long valley half-tube shaped by the glaciers up to the Calino saddle, which leads to Tenno.
The neighboring towns in the north belong to the municipality of Comano Terme . In Vigo Lomaso there is the Pieve di San Lorenzo, one of the oldest churches in Trentino with a baptistery separate from the church. Vigo Lomaso is also the home of Bernardino Dalponte, a contemporary and Trentino fighter of Andreas Hofer during the Napoleonic Wars. On the slope up to Lundo are the remains of the aforementioned Castel Spine, which, like many other Judiciary castles, was originally owned by the village community. In the 13th century it became the property of the Counts of Arco.
In Campo Lomaso, the "Villa de Lutti" catches the eye, an artists' meeting place that was rebuilt and expanded in the 19th century and which was then known throughout Trentino. West of Campo on a rock spur in the Duina Gorge stands the well-preserved Castel Campo of the Lords of Campo, a lower feudal nobility of the Judiciary, from which Matthias Gallas descended, who made a career in imperial service during the Thirty Years War.
Ponte Arche am Sarca is the capital of the municipality of Comano Terme. Since 2010 it has replaced the former municipalities of Bleggio Inferiore with the towns or hamlets of Bié, Càres, Cillà, Vergonzo, Comighello, Bono, Duvrédo, Sesto, Villa, Tignerone, part of Santa Croce and Lomaso with the towns of Dasindo, Vigo Lomaso, Campo Lomaso, Lundo, Pόia, Godénzo, Comano and with a territorially delimited part of the Val d'Algόne in the Brenta area. The place is very central and has therefore attracted various institutions of the external judiciary in the past.
The small town of Comano Terme, whose legendary medicinal springs were already known to the Romans and enjoyed a special reputation in the Middle Ages, is undoubtedly best known. The springs were buried in a landslide around 1400 and only dug up centuries later after the news spread that farmers who dipped their scabies-infested hands in the seeping water were cured of the disease.
The banal
At Ponte Arche there is the bridge that used to connect the Banale with the Lomaso and Bleggio, hence the name. Today the main artery at Villa Banale crosses the 90 m deep Sarca Gorge further east . Villa Banale is a fraction of the municipality of Stenico. Stenico is located on the plateau at the foot of the Dos della Forra , a southern branch of the Brenta Group. The western part of the village lies in a kind of saddle between the mountainside and Stenico Castle. It is very well preserved and is one of the most beautiful of its kind in Trentino. It was originally owned by the village community and in the Middle Ages it was fiercely fought between the noble families of the Judiciaries and the Castelbarco. At the beginning of the modern era the bishops of Trento took it over, sat there themselves for a time and chose it as the seat of their administrator in the judiciary. From the castle you have a view of all other castles in this wide basin. To the west of the castle, the castle rock falls into the Valle dei Molini (Mill Valley), in which the water-rich Rio Bianco from the Valle Laòn used to guarantee operation for numerous mills and forges. The other factions of Stenico are Premione, Sclemo and Seo.
The next small towns on the following landscape plateau are Tavodo and Andogno, which belong to the municipality of Dorsino. Tavodo was once the seat of the Pieve del Banale, from which the entire area north of the Sarca took its name. This area is also home to the ” ciuìga ” . It's a smoked pork sausage stretched with boiled beets. In the past, the inhabitants of need and obedience to want managed in this way by increasing the amount of meat to be slaughtered at the time of slaughter. After crossing the Ambièz stream, the road arrives to Dorsino, behind which the Val d'Ambièz, which extends far into the Brenta massif, opens.
San Lorenzo in Banale is the most touristically developed town. It emerged from the 7 hamlets of Berghi, Pergnano, Senaso, Dolaso, Prato, Prusa and Glolo. The remains of Castel Mani can be found on a rocky promontory in the Val Bondai gorge near Glolo. From there, a unique view opens up through the Sarca Gorge and out into the outer Sarca Valley. The Dos del Comun offers an unobstructed view of the Nembia area and the Bondai valley.
Lake Molveno further north was damaged by a huge rock fall around 1000 BC. BC originated. It is the second largest lake in Trentino, which is entirely on land territory. It often does not have a natural course. Much of the water seeps through the rock debris from this landslide and emerges further down in the Bondai Valley. The only place on the north bank is Molveno .
Web links
- valligiudicarie.it , Consorzio Turistico Giudicarie Centrali
Individual evidence
- ↑ http://www.comunitadellegiudicarie.it/territorio/cultura-e-ambiente/geografia/perche-giudicarie.html ( Memento from May 20, 2014 in the Internet Archive )
Collemeluccio-Montedimezzo (1977) | Circeo (1977) | Miramare (1979) | Cilento and Vallo di Diano (1997) | Somma-Vesuvio and Migliio d'Oro (1997) | Ticino, Val Grande Verbano (2002) | Tuscan Islands (2003) | Selve Costiere Toscana (2004) | Monte Viso (2014) | Sila (2014) | Ledro Alps and Giudicariums (2015) | Po Delta (2015) | Tuscan-Emilian Apennines (2015) | Collina Po (2016) | Tepilora, Rio Posada and Montalbo (2017) | Monte Peglia (2018) | Valle Camonica - Alto Sebino (2018) | Julian Alps (2019) | Po Grande (2019)
Coordinates: 46 ° 2 ′ N , 10 ° 44 ′ E