Ferenciek tere (Budapest)
The Ferenciek tere [ IPA : fɛrɛnt͡siɛk tɛrɛ ], in German Franziskanerplatz , is a representative town square and traffic junction in the 5th district (Belváros-Lipótváros, German downtown Leopoldstadt ) of the Hungarian capital Budapest . The square is named after the baroque Franciscan church located here . The course has the metro stop Ferenciek the M3 line (blue line).
Since 1987, the entire square has been part of the World Heritage Site Buda Castle District and the Danube River Bank in Budapest .
Location and characteristics
The Franziskanerplatz is one of the representative squares on the Pest side, which with its cosmopolitan character reflects the heyday of the Danube metropolis as the capital and residence of Hungary within the Danube monarchy at the time of the Belle Époque . The unusually L-shaped square is crossed several times by heavily frequented streets in downtown Pest and is thus divided into two clearly separated parts that were only merged at the end of the 19th century.
The smaller, elongated, rectangular eastern part , the actual, historic Franciscan Square, serves as the forecourt of the eponymous Franciscan Church and as a connection between the north-east axis Károlyi Mihály utca - Petőfi Sándor utca between Kálvin tér ( Calvin Square ) and Freedom Square . The small town square, built on from three sides, is reminiscent of an Italian piazza .
With the twin palaces the Archduchess Clotilde ( Klotild-paloták ) forms the triangular western part of the symbolic input to Elisabeth bridge (Hungarian Erzsébet-híd ) and thus the enlargement of the city passing through the east-west axis Rákóczi út - Kossuth Lajos utca - Elisabeth bridge - Hegyalja út between Ostbahnhof and Buda . The intersection, which only grew into a real square in the late 19th century, was historically known as Serpent Square .
With the exception of the baroque facade of the Franciscan Church , the entire appearance of the square is characterized by monumental Wilhelminian- style buildings built in the neo-styles of historicism .
history
The creation of the Franziskanerplatz
The square was originally a wide stretch of road in a north-west-south-east direction which was built at the time of the Árpáden dynasty (1000–1301) instead of a moat protecting the Pest city fortifications at that time . At the northeast end of the road 1250-1260 a martyr was Peter of Verona consecrated Gothic chapel and a convent of the Franciscan Order built. The construction of this order complex was financially supported by King Béla IV . The small chapel was expanded into a church from 1298 and is considered to be the predecessor of today's Franciscan Church. After the city was conquered by the Ottomans in 1541, the church now served as a mosque under the name Dschami des Sinan Beys . After the Ottomans were driven out of Pest , the building was rebuilt as a Franciscan church in the baroque style in 1690. This time it was dedicated to Peter of Alcántara . The church forecourt, known as Herrengasse and later as Mönchengasse or Mönchenplatz , became one of the most important public squares in the city.
In the 19th century
In 1835 the Nereidenbrunnen , the first sculptural fountain in Pest, was built in front of the Franciscan Church. The flood of 1838 caused severe damage between March 13th and 18th, especially on the Pest side. The maximum water levels are displayed on several memorial plaques in today's inner districts, including on the side facade of the Franciscan church on Kossuth Lajos utca. The bronze relief commemorates the selfless efforts of Baron Miklós Wesselényi , who personally saved many people from the floods.
In 1841, the German bookseller Gustav Emich founded the Athenaeum bookstore, which within a few years became the largest newspaper and book publisher in what was then Hungary. The publishing house and printing house, which was located in the one-story, baroque Palais Grassalkovich on Franziskanerplatz from 1868 , made a significant contribution to the literary production of the Hungarian cultural awakening. Until its demolition in 1897, the palace stood in the place of today's King's Bazaar.
The bridge building
→ Main article: Elisabeth Bridge (Budapest)
In 1893 the law on the construction of the fourth bridge over the Danube (later the Elisabeth Bridge ) was passed by the Budapest City Council. With the construction of the bridge at the former Schwurplatz ( Eskü tér , today Március 15th tér ), the Pest city center was radically restructured. A large part of the medieval city fabric and the baroque-classicist buildings including the old Pest town hall in the Schlangengasse ( Kígyó utca ) had to be torn down and new traffic corridors had to be replaced. The row of houses on the west side of the small Franziskanerplatz was also removed and the square was merged with the newly created triangular Snake Square ( Kígyó-tér ) and the old Hatvaner Landstrasse ( Hatvani út ), now named Kossuth Lajos utca . From 1914 a tram line crossed the new bridge and thus the now big city-built Schlangenplatz . The now elegant town square was decorated after the turn of the century with statues of the legal scholar Stephan Werbőcy and the primate Péter Pázmány . The monuments donated by the Emperor and King Franz Joseph , like many other statues and monuments in the city, were removed for political reasons after the Second World War.
In the 20th century
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The proclamation of the Hungarian Soviet Republic in 1919 brought serious changes to the life of the house. With the collapse of the monarchy, a large part of the former residents left the house, the property management itself was also eliminated. In front of the house and the Klothilden palaces, a provisional victory gate, covered with red cloth, was built to commemorate the dethronement of the Habsburgs.
Renamed in 1921 after Count Albert Apponyi , the square was the scene of fierce fighting during the Battle of Budapest in World War II, but most of its buildings remained undamaged. The reconstruction of the Elisabethbrücke, which was blown up on January 18, 1945 when the German troops withdrew, was delayed until 1963, until then the square, now renamed Liberation Square , remained the terminus of several pre-war tram lines over the Danube . Only with the reconstruction of the Elisabeth Bridge did the square regain importance as a traffic junction. At the same time as the underground construction began in the 1970s, tram traffic along the east-west axis Rákóczi út - Kossuth Lajos utca was discontinued and the route between the east station and the Buda side was expanded as a 2x3-lane urban motorway in the sense of the " car-friendly city " . The liberation area itself was almost completely given over to car traffic, crossing the area on foot was now only possible through pedestrian underpasses . Pedestrian traffic was further restricted by the ramps of a Y-shaped car tunnel in front of the university library, the Paris courtyard and in Petőfi Sándor utca .
Redevelopment
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After the collapse of socialism , the Franziskanerplatz, which was now uniformly renamed Ferenciek tere , was, as in the last decades of the fall of the regime, characterized by a gradually neglected image: the stone facades blackened by heavy car traffic, the inconsistent and worn pavement, and the almost empty Parisians Passage contributed to this. A comprehensive redesign and rehabilitation of the square did not take place until 2012-2014 as part of the Budapest Szíve Program (' the heart of Budapest program' ) with the aim of calming traffic on both axes, removing the Y-tunnel, expanding pedestrian areas, greening, the Renovation and expansion of the pedestrian underpass, as well as the construction of several above-ground pedestrian crossings. The area of the former snake square was given a stone paving reminiscent of snake scales. Independently of this project, most of the neighboring buildings were renovated from private chapters, many found new functions (e.g. the Pariser Hof or the Klothilden palaces as a luxury hotel).
Historical names
Thanks to its exposed location and irregular shape, the two-part square has been known by a large number of different names throughout its history. Until the 19th century German was spoken by the majority in Pest, which is also reflected in the historical naming. <
| Eastern part (north-south axis) | Western part (east-west axis) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| 16th century |
Platea Dominorum
(Hungarian Urak utcája, German Herrengasse ) Petrigasse ( Szent Péter utca ) |
from 1700 | Getreyde Market Square ( ung.Búzapiac tér ) |
| 1690 |
Herrengasse
( Úri utca ) |
||
| 1703 | Mönchengasse ( Barátok utcája ) | ||
| 1727 | Monks Square (Barátok tere) | from 1730 |
White Roses Square ( Vörös Rózsa tér )
Sebastien Square ( Sebestyén tér ) |
| 18th century |
Franziskanerplatz ( Ferenciek tere )
University Square (Egyetem tér) |
from 1788 | Snake Square ( Kígyó tér ) |
| from 1874 | Ferenciek tere ( Franziskanerplatz ) | from 1874 | Kígyó tér ( Snake Square ) |
| from 1921 | Apponyi tér ( Graf Apponyi Square ) | ||
| from 1962 | Károlyi Mihály utca ( Mihály Károlyi Lane ) | from 1951 |
Felszabadulás tér ( Liberation Place )
colloquially 'Felszab tér' |
| from 1991 | Ferenciek tere ( Franziskanerplatz ) - both parts are uniform | ||
Striking buildings
Clothild Palaces
→ Main article: Clothilden palaces
Klotild paloták (Ferenciek tere 1st & 12th), b. 1899–1902, neo-baroque - art nouveau
The monumental twin building of the Klothilden Palaces ( Klotild paloták ) forms the symbolic gateway to the Elisabeth Bridge . The land on the newly designed Schlangenplatz that became vacant in the course of the bridge construction was acquired by the wife of Archduke Joseph Karl Ludwig of Austria , Archduchess Clotilde of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha , and built on from 1899–1902 according to the plans of the architectural duo Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl . The steel structure of the mirror-symmetrical twin buildings is covered with carved stone and decorative brick cladding, the glass windows were made in Miksa Róth's workshop, the tiled stoves come from the Zsolnay factory in Fünfkirchen , and the 48-meter-high towers are decorated with replicas of the archducal crown. The first elevator in Budapest was installed here by OTIS . The architect Flóris Korb lived in one of the stately rental apartments in the South Palace. The parts of the building, officially simply called 'northern' and 'southern' Klothilden-Palast, are known lovingly among the Budapesters as Klotilde and Mathilde (Klotild és Matild ). The urban legend after it is in the latter to the supposed twin sister of the building owner. The Archduchess sold the building complex for financial reasons during the First World War . For decades, the literary café Belvárosi Kávéház (German : Inner City Coffee House ) operated in the South Palace , which was the first establishment in the capital to reopen on February 18, 1945 after the siege of Budapest . The buildings, which were badly damaged during World War II and assigned to the Hungarian Post Office after the war , have been renovated in recent years. Today they house luxury hotels as well as a Buddha bar .
Váci utca ( Waitznergasse ), the most famous promenade in the city, runs behind the Klothilden palaces . The house numbering of the Franziskanerplatz begins with the southern and ends with the northern palace.
Royal apartment building
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Királyi bérház (Ferenciek tere 2.) born. 1899–1902, historicism influenced by Art Nouveau
→ Main article: Royal apartment building
The imposing royal apartment building on the southeast side of the former Schlangenplatz was built in 1899–1902 according to the plans of the architects Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl on the site of the demolished Royal Hungarian Curia ( Supreme Court ). The client was the general management of the private and family funds of Seiner k. and k. Apostolic Majesty , ie the Austrian Emperor and Hungarian King Franz Joseph I, who personally approved the construction plans and inspected the construction work twice. The monumental appearance of the house, decorated with stone towers, gables and grandiose roof volumes , refers to the Klothilden palaces, also commissioned by members of the ruling family and designed by the same architectural duo . The Habsburgs sold the building for financial reasons during the First World War . The four-story house has 24 (now 66) upper-class apartments and 12 business rooms on the ground floor. The Deisinger brothers from Fiume opened the legendary " Fratelli Deisinger ", one of the largest tea and grocery stores in the Hungarian capital , in the corner shop . The luxury shop, known colloquially as " Fratelli ", functioned under the name of " Csemege Delicatessen " as almost the only shop that carried goods imported from western countries during socialism . During the Second World War, the entire roof structure burned out, the reconstruction took place in a greatly simplified form. The stone facades, which had been discolored black for decades, were only cleaned extensively in recent years. There are still private apartments in the house.
King's Bazaar
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Király Bazár (Ferenciek tere 3–5.), B. 1899–1902, Art Nouveau
The Grassalkovich Palace was located on the property until the end of the 19th century . The one-story baroque building was the seat of several newspaper offices and the famous Athenaeum publishing house. In place of the palace, which was demolished in the course of the bridge construction in 1897, a three-story building complex, delimited by three streets, was built in purest Viennese Art Nouveau according to plans by Gyula Ullmann and Aladár Kármán . The building, which was built as a rental and commercial building, had a passage and several inner courtyards. The original, pyramidal roof as well as numerous gables and facade ornaments were destroyed in the war. The building, which had fallen into disrepair under socialism, was renovated in 2015, but the original Art Nouveau roof of the central projectile was not rebuilt. The Ibolya Presszó , a retro-style bistro, which is legendary among the ELTE student body, has been located in one of the restaurants in the basement since 1968 .
Café Cantral
Central Kávéház (Károlyi Mihály utca 9th), b. 1887, neo-Gothic
The Café Central is one of the few historical coffee houses in Budapest that still function today . It was opened in 1887 in the Ullmann'schen Haus ( Erényi Ullmann Lajos háza ) designed by the architect Zsigmond Quittner . Along with Café New York and Café Hadik , Central was the most important meeting place for Hungarian literary life at the turn of the century and the interwar period. His regulars were many writers, poets, journalists, artists and scientists, for example, Kálmán Mikszáth , Sándor Bródy , Ferenc Herczeg , Géza Gárdonyi , Endre Ady , Dezső Kosztolányi , Frigyes Karinthy , Mihály Babits , Zsigmond Moricz , Árpád Tóth or Lőrincz Szabó , here the editorial offices of several magazines ( Nyugat , A Hét ) as well as clubs and associations met. After the nationalization in 1949, the café was used as an office, canteen, student club and finally from 1993 as an amusement arcade. The café, which was renovated according to the original plans, was reopened in 2000.
Palais Ybl (formerly Erste Pester Sparkasse )
Ybl-palota, volt Pesti Hazai Első Takarékpénztár (Károlyi Mihály utca 12.), b. 1866–1869, neo-Renaissance
The three-story building was built as the headquarters of the Erste Pester Sparkasse by the architect Miklós Ybl between 1866–1869. Elegant rental and civil servant apartments were set up on the upper floors, while the ground floor served commercial functions. After nationalization in 1948, the building served as the headquarters of the Budapest waterworks. In the course of the underground construction, the house was structurally damaged and had to be evacuated in the 1980s. The former savings bank building, now known as Palais Ybl , was completely refurbished in 1998 and has since been home to offices and a bar in the inner courtyard. The palace with its colorful corner dome and glass-covered inner courtyard is a listed building.
University library
Egyetemi Könyvtár (Ferenciek tere 6.), b. 1873–1876, neo-Renaissance
→ Main article: University Library (Budapest)
The central library is the core library of the University Library (UB) of the Eötvös Loránd University Budapest (ELTE). The library of the university , which was then still called the Royal Hungarian University ( Magyar Királyi Egyetem ) , which was relocated from Buda to Pest in 1784, found a new location in the Franciscan monastery on Franciscan Square. Between 1873 and 1876 the UB was built according to the plans of the Hungarian architects Henrik Koch and Antal Szkalnitzky, a representative building in the neo-renaissance style. The new UB was the first building of the university for library purposes and the first public library in the country. The corner building has a colorful dome that characterizes the statue, the sgraffitos were designed by Mór Than , the frescoes in the main reading room are works by the German-Hungarian painter Károly Lotz .
Franciscan bazaar
Ferences Bazár (Ferenciek tere 7–8.), B. 1876–1877, eclectic
Adjacent to the inner city Franciscan Church is the three-story building of the Franciscan Bazaar with a four-story central projection. Its predecessor, the originally Gothic Franciscan monastery , was restored to the order after the Ottoman period and rebuilt in the Baroque style. In the course of the construction of the Elisabethbrücke, the Franciscans initiated the demolition of the entire complex including the church and the monastery in 1875. The city administration prevented the destruction of the church, but the one-story monastery building was allowed to give way to a new, lucrative residential and commercial building. Since 1934, the building has housed the luxury restaurant Kárpátia, which was a popular meeting place for conservative intellectuals (including János Pilinszky , Zoltán Jéklely , István Nemeskürthy ) during socialism . During the construction of the underground in the 1970s, this building was also structurally damaged and had to be renovated, including the restaurant. The building has a large L-shaped inner courtyard that serves as a public connection between Franziskanerplatz and Kossuth Lajos utca.
Inner-city Franciscan Church
→ Main article: Franciscan Church (Budapest)
Belvárosi Ferences templom (Ferenciek tere 9.), b. 1715–1743, baroque
Csáky-Cziráky Palace
Csáky-Cziráky palota (Petőfi Sándor utca 1. / Kossuth Lajos utca 2A) born. 1895–1896, eclectic
Built for the count and former Minister of Education Albin Csáky according to plans by Sándor Fort and Ernő Föerk, the upper two floors of the corner palace contained stately apartments, which were mainly inhabited by aristocrats, politicians and churchmen. The historical snake pharmacy (Kígyó-Gyógyszertár), founded in 1784 and relocated to this house in 1899, is on the ground floor and is a listed building thanks to its Art Nouveau furnishings .
Parisian court
Párisi udvar Ferenciek tere 10.), b. 1909–1912, historicism, eclecticism ( neo- Moorish - neo-Gothic )
The monumental seat of the former Inner City Savings Bank (Belvárosi Takarékpénztár) known as Pariser Hof was designed as an office, residential and commercial building by the German architect Henrik Schmahl, who worked in Hungary . The house houses the eponymous , actual Parisian courtyard ( Párisi udvar ), the only remaining covered shopping arcade in Budapest.
Its predecessor, the Brudernhaus ( Brudern-ház ) designed by the architect Mihály Pollack in 1817, is considered to be the first department store in Hungary. The two-story department store built for Baron József Brudern was also known as the Parisian House ( Párisi-ház) , as it was built on the one hand above the former Parisian alley ( Párisi utca ) and on the other hand it was modeled on the Parisian Passage des Panoramas . The Brudern'sche department store created a new architectural genre in Central European architecture at the time , as the concept of a covered shopping alley built in a house was a novelty that was previously unknown even in German and Italian-speaking countries.
The new Sparkasse building built in place of the department store between 1909 and 1913 took this legacy into account by including a pompous Moorish-Gothic-inspired new building in the popular Pariser Passage . Thanks to its rich ornamentation (partly made by the Zsolnay and Villeroy & Bosch factories ), hexagonal glass dome, Art Nouveau ticket halls and Indian roof turrets, the new Parisian courtyard became an attraction of the Hungarian capital as soon as it was completed. Despite massive street fighting in the area, the building survived the Second World War almost unscathed. The savings bank headquarters, nationalized in 1949, housed the state tour operator IBUSZ from 1960 and was now known under the name IBUSZ-Palota ( IBUSZ-Palast ). Between 1952 and 2015, the Jégbüfé (in English: ' ice cream buffet '), one of the most popular pastry shops of the post-war Budapest period, operated in-house. The building, which has been a listed building since 1976, has been renovated and modernized several times since the end of the war, but gradually lost its old shine. A general renovation of the already dilapidated building did not take place until 2014. The entire building was converted into a five-star hotel of the Hyatt hotel chain , while the Pariser Passage serves as a hotel lobby with a café open to the public.
Girardihaus ( Golden House )
Girardi-ház, colloquially also ' Aranyház ', (Ferenciek tere 11th) geb. 1914–1917, Art Nouveau
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The Girardihaus is a four-storey apartment building built according to the plans of the Hungarian architect Ignác Alpár in the years 1914–1917. The previous building, a small, two-story palace owned by Count Andreoli, was sold to the fur trader József Girardi in 1913 and demolished. Thanks to its richly decorated facade with real gold, the Art Nouveau house is often only known as the Golden House . The shop front was radically redesigned in 1937 for a luxury women's fashion store in the Art Deco style, and the premises now house a branch of the OTP Bank . The house suffered severe damage in World War II, the roof structure and the top floor burned out completely. The upper part of the facade was rebuilt in a simplified form on the initiative of the residents as early as 1946; a general renovation did not take place until the 1960s. In 1974 the main street-side entrance was relocated to the passage of the adjacent Pariser Hof.
traffic
Today the Franziskanerplatz is an important traffic junction in the heart of the Pest city center in close proximity to the bridgehead of the Elisabeth Bridge. In addition to the M3 underground line, the numerous bus lines operated by the Budapest transport company BKV and the 2x3-lane east-west axis contribute to this.
bus
- Bus routes: 5, 7, 8E, 15, 108E, 110, 112, 115, 133E, 178
- Night bus lines: 907, 908, 956, 973
Subway
The subway station Ferenciek tere on the M3 line between Deák Ferenc tér and Kálvin tér has been located under the square at a depth of 27.7 meters since 1976 .
tram
After the M2 underground line went into operation in 1970, all tram lines running over the Elisabeth Bridge and thus over the Liberation Square at that time were gradually shut down by 1973. The affected rail network was dismantled by 1975, the resulting lanes were handed over to car and bus traffic.
gallery
University library and Palais Ybl before the turn of the century
The Franciscan Church and the still narrow Hatvaner Landstrasse (later Kossuth Lajos utca ) around 1900
The snake square on an old postcard
The Schlangenplatz before 1909. Instead of the Paris court, there is the original Brudern House from 1817
The Schlangenplatz and the Klothild Palaces at the time of the construction of the old Elisabeth Bridge before 1902
The royal apartment building with its original roofs
As a place of liberation with the Klothilden palaces in the 1960s. In the background the ruins of the Elisabeth Bridge, which was blown up in World War II
The corner plan of the royal apartment building before the renovation
The facades of the Klothilden palaces to Váci utca
The Paris court under renovation
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Web links
- The rehabilitation of Franziskanerplatz and its surroundings
- Last tram ride before the new metro opened in 1972 (report in Hungarian)
Individual evidence
- ↑ István Pusinszki: Királyi Bazár épält az Athenaeum romjain. Translation: Royal Bazaar above the ruins of the Athenaeum. In: Prusi Dosszié. November 15, 2014, accessed July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Ferenciek tere. Translation: The Franziskanerplatz. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Ház története. Translation: History of the House. In: Website of the property management of the royal apartment building. Retrieved July 26, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Megnéztük az átadott Ferenciek terét - kritika. Translation: A look at the new Franziskanerplatz - review. In: válasz.hu. March 17, 2014, accessed July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Ferenciek: Barátok és ellenségek. Translation: Franziskanerplatz: Friends and enemies. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 21, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Ilyen is volt Budapest Ferenciek tere. Translation: Budapest used to be like that too: Franziskanerplatz. In: Szeretlek Magyarország. January 31, 2014, accessed July 21, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Klotild Palota (E). Translation: The Klothilden-Palast (N). In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Királyi Berpalota. Translation: Royal apartment building. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ János Gerle: Basket Flóris - Giergl Kálmán . Translation: Master of Architecture. In: Az építészet mesterei . Holnap Kiadó, Budapest 2010, ISBN 978-963-346-886-9 , p. 101-105 .
- ↑ Éva Szilléry: Újjászületett palota a Ferenciek terén. Translation: A reborn palace on Franziskanerplatz. Magyar Hírlap, August 12, 2015, accessed July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Central Kávéház: Rólunk. Translation: About us. In: Café Central. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ^ Mihály Varga: A Károlyi Mihály utcai Ybl-palota felújítása. Translation: The renovation of the Ybl Palace in Károlyi Mihály utca. In: építészfórum. February 19, 2001, accessed July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Ferences Bazar. Translation: The Franciscan Bazaar. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Csáky-Cziráky-palota. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Párizsi-udvar. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Dávid Zubreczki: A Parisi szebb udvar, valaha mint volt. Translation: The Parisian court, more beautiful than ever. In: Urbanista Blog. June 3, 2019, accessed July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ A Girardi-ház: Aranyemberek. Translation: The Girardi House: Gold Men. In: UrbFace. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).
- ↑ Ferenciek tere 11. In: Budapest100. Retrieved July 22, 2020 (Hungarian).