Doner kebab

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Doner kebab on a skewer

The doner kebab ( Turkish ; "(rotating) grilled meat"), or doner for short , is one of the most famous dishes in Turkish cuisine . It is similar to the Greek gyros . It consists of meat slices seasoned with marinade , which are placed in layers on a vertical rotisserie and grilled on the side . From this, the outer, tanned layers are gradually cut off thinly.

Originally only mutton or lamb was used for doner kebabs , but now - at least outside of Turkey  - veal or beef and poultry such as turkey or chicken are also common.

Döner is served as a main course with side dishes such as rice , french fries and salad , or as a snack in a sliced flatbread ( pide ) (Turkish pide arası döner ) or in a Dürüm Döner ("rolled kebab") or Yufka Döner called variant which the meat is wrapped in a particularly thin flatbread, the yufka .

history

A kebab seller in 1855

The preparation of meat on the rotisserie has a long tradition in Anatolia , including the serving of grilled meat in flatbread. So wrote Helmuth von Moltke , at the time military adviser of the Ottoman Empire , on June 16, 1836 in his diary:

“We ate our lunch at Kiebabtschi in a very Turkish way. […] Then the kiebab or small pieces of mutton appeared on a wooden disc, fried on a spit and wrapped in bread dough, a very good, tasty dish. "

This shish kebab was still prepared on a standard horizontal grill. A little later a cook named Hamdi is said to have grilled layered meat on a vertical skewer for the first time in Kastamonu . His recipe was passed on through several generations of his apprentices. Then, finely sliced ​​mutton is marinated for about a day in a thoroughly kneaded mixture of finely chopped onions, salt, pepper, hot paprika and cumin and then placed on the skewer in a conical shape - first the meat from the leg , then the comb and finally the fillet . The grill was made of bricks and mud and ran on oak charcoal. There was a two-ply shovel under the spit . The cut meat collected in the upper, perforated part, and in the lower meat juice and fat. This "Urdöner" was served with a mixture of parsley and onions , supplemented with rice and side dishes such as tomatoes , cucumber , radish and peppers if desired .

Around 25 years later, the kebab may have been reinvented independently in Bursa . The chef İskender, founder of a restaurant named after him , processed some of the mutton into minced meat and layered it between pounded meat slices. He served the grilled meat with yogurt and melted butter on a layer of sliced ​​flatbread known as Iskender Kebab . The name “Doner Kebab” is said to have been formed in Bursa.

However, it is uncertain whether Hamdi or İskender were actually the inventors of the vertical meat skewer. Very similar dishes are the Arabic shawarma made from beef and the Greek gyros made from pork , which are also fried on a vertical rotisserie.

Kebab kebab has been available in Istanbul since the 1940s - but only in very few restaurants, including one in the Topkapı Palace . The beginning of street sales in flatbreads is indicated for some snack or buffet operators in Istanbul as early as the late 1960s .

Distribution in the German-speaking area

Kebab in Germany, classic form
Dürüm or Yufka doner

In the Federal Republic of Germany , in the early 1970s, the meat cut from the roast cone was no longer offered with side dishes only on a plate, but alternatively in a dumpling pocket and thus also to take away.

Döner in Gobit -Brot

It is unclear when the first kebab shop opened in Germany . Legend has it that it was on Kottbusser Damm in Berlin in the early 1970s . According to another account, which is confirmed by the Association of Turkish Doner Kebab Manufacturers, the doner kebab - back then as grilled meat in flatbread only with onions - including its preparation on a rotating metal skewer is said to have been invented by the Turkish immigrant Kadir Nurman and never patented; his first kebab shop was at the Zoo train station in the early 1970s . Nevzat Salim claims to have offered the doner kebab in Reutlingen as early as 1969 .

The doner kebab first spread in cities with a high proportion of migrants, but quickly became a dish in university towns and experienced a (renewed) boom after 1990 in eastern Germany and finally also in the western German provinces. First in Berlin, and later throughout Germany, kebab became a popular snack food. Around 200 to 300 tons are produced every day  ; of sales in 1998 was the equivalent of about 1.5 billion euros. In 2011 there were over 16,000 kebab shops in Germany and the turnover of the kebab industry was around 3.5 billion euros. Since the mid-1990s, doner kebab has also been available as a kebab in Austria , Liechtenstein and Switzerland .

While the doner kebab was initially staged with folkloric elements in order to cater to the exoticism of German guests, in the 1990s there was a significant transformation of the doner snack bar towards a global fast-food culture influenced by the US.

The variant of kebab in flatbread , which is common in German-speaking countries , differs from the Turkish one mainly in the addition of garden salad , sliced tomatoes , cucumber and onions , white and red cabbage and the sauces used with mayonnaise and yoghurt , for example in the variants " Garlic ”,“ Herbs ”,“ Spicy ”and“ Curry ”, which are not part of traditional Turkish cuisine. “With hot sauce” is also ordered by Turkish-speaking customers with the German formulation, which indicates the product's hybrid character.

As a plate dish in Germany, doner kebab is not only offered with rice and salad , as is common in Turkey , but also with French fries and various sauces.

In the meantime, an extensive kebab industry has established itself in the Federal Republic of Germany, which operates throughout Europe and markets doner kebab as a German-Turkish product. It cannot be said with certainty whether in Turkey, at the same time or even earlier, doner kebab was also developed as a take-away fast food or the success of the concept in Germany led to the (return) transfer to Turkey.

Spread in other countries

Doner kebab has established itself as a fast food in almost all European countries since the 2000s. Outside the German-speaking area, kebab snack bars are mostly run by immigrants from other countries in the Near and Middle East , as immigrants from Turkey are hardly present there. In Spain and France , kebab shops are mostly run by immigrants from North Africa , although the range of kebab shops is still marketed as Turkish food and neither conceptually nor in terms of preparation is reminiscent of similar dishes from the Arab region.

Manufacturing and preparation

Composition of the meat

A kebab skewer usually consists of a layer of four to five layers of lean meat marinated in yoghurt and spices, followed by a layer of fatter meat - for example from cross ribs or ribs . A finished kebab skewer weighs around two to forty kilograms. Many restaurants and snack bars do not make the skewers themselves, but obtain them industrially. There are around 400 such kebab producers in Germany; The leading company is the Kap-Lan kebab production facility founded by Remzi Kaplan . The market leader in Switzerland is Royal Döner with a market share of 60 percent.

In Germany, kebab often contains minced meat in addition to pure meat . In the 1980s, the mass production of kebab skewers began. In order to preserve consumer expectations, the composition of doner kebab was first specified in 1989 in the "Festschierung der Berliner Verkehrsaufsicht für das Meatprodukt Dönerkebap". In the meantime, doner kebab is also included in the guidelines for meat and meat products of the German Food Book. It says that only coarsely sinewed sheep meat and / or sinewed beef should be used as the starting material. The minced meat content should be less than 60 percent. It may also contain salt, spices, eggs, onions, oil, milk and yoghurt. This information is not a legal norm. They only describe the current general opinion in terms of food law . If these requirements are met, the dish can be sold as a doner kebab . Deviating variants, which also contain pork or can only consist of minced meat, have names such as rotisserie kebab-style or similar. Yaprak kebab ("leaf kebab, sliced ​​doner") is now a widespread name for traditionally made kebab made from sheer slices of meat without minced meat.

The general public opinion does not include compliance with the Islamic dietary regulations ( halāl , here specifically the requirement of slaughtering ). Only some of the kebab producers make kebab from butchered meat.

The difference in the sales name between “kebab” and “rotisserie” depends on the amount of ingredients in the meat.

Rotisserie

Typical for the preparation of the dish is that the meat is scraped off a conical, vertical rotisserie with a knife or an electric cutting device. The heat required for searing is generated by an electric or gas powered grill.

Kebab robots are occasionally used to automatically cut meat from a kebab skewer . The skewers are equipped with various sensors that control a cutting device that is attached to a multi-axis robot arm. Robots of this type were presented for the first time in 2010 at the contact fair Döner Industry (DÖGA) in Berlin . Depending on the source, Duran Kabakyer or Ahmet Kalyoncu are named as inventors. After the introduction of a kebab robot in the TV total program in 2011, it gained greater popularity and has since been referred to as " the device " .

variants

Vöner in Berlin

Since the BSE crisis in the 1990s, kebab has also been made from chicken or turkey meat. The doner produced in this way may not be called doner kebab ; Commonly used are the names chicken doner or tavuk doner . The Dürüm Döner also became popular in the 1990s , in which the meat and other ingredients are not put in sliced, several centimeters thick pide , but rather rolled in millimeter-thin Yufka . Occasionally, instead of pide or yufka, lahmacun is used, a flatbread baked with minced meat and tomatoes.

There are also dishes based on the doner kebab in flatbread with other ingredients such as the Turkish sausage specialty sucuk and vegetarian dishes in which the meat is replaced by falafel , seitan or cheese such as halloumi or feta .

In the “kebab box” variant (also known as “kebab bag” or “pomm-kebab”), the meat is filled with French fries (optionally with lettuce, tomatoes and onions) in layers in a cardboard box or bag with sauce soaked and eaten with a fork. Vöner is a neologism of the early 21st century for a meatless kebab in the lexicographical definition for "a kind of kebab with purely vegetarian or vegan ingredients".

Violations of food law or public opinion

Manufacturers and sellers of doner kebab in Germany were repeatedly accused of violating food law (in so-called “ rotten meat scandals ”) or against the general public opinion. The well-known kebab manufacturer Remzi Kaplan was sentenced in 2008 by the Tiergarten district court in Berlin to a fine of 40,000 euros (400 daily rates of 100 euros each) because four tons of meat were seized in his company that were no longer suitable for consumption. The German Agricultural Society (DLG) found in random samples that cheaper types of meat than veal, beef or lamb were often used or that starchy binders were added to the goods. This is a consequence of the tough price competition among manufacturers.

Many kebab sellers consider the negative reporting to be deliberately damaging to their reputation, as the majority of them can provide examination reports on food hygiene and process management. The Turkish media suspected a conspiracy by western fast food companies behind such "rotten meat scandals". Among them, Hürriyet in particular reported repeatedly, taking sides for the product and its sellers.

Notation

In Turkish, kebap is written in the basic form with p at the end ( final hardening ), while the Duden recommends the spelling Döner Kebab with a final b in German . However, as a valid alternative spellings, he also leads doner kebab and loose compounds doner kebab and doner kebab on. The Austrian dictionary knows kebab , kebab , doner kebab and doner kebab .

literature

  • Maren Möhring : Doner kebab. On the history of one of the most successful fast food products in Germany . In: Maren Möhring: Foreign food. The history of foreign gastronomy in the Federal Republic of Germany. Oldenbourg Wissenschaftsverlag, 2012, ISBN 978-3-486-71779-2 , p. 421 ff.
  • Eberhard Seidel-Pielen : Skewered. How the kebab came across the Germans. Rotbuch, Berlin 1996, ISBN 978-3-88022-901-3 .

Web links

Commons : Doner Kebap  - Collection of Images
Wiktionary: Döner  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Duden: Doner Kebab .
  2. ^ Helmuth von Moltke: Under the half moon in the Gutenberg-DE project
  3. ↑ Petra Foede: How Bismarck got hold of the herring. Culinary legends. Kein & Aber, Zurich 2009, ISBN 978-3-0369-5268-0 .
  4. ↑ Kültür Bakanlığı Türk Halk kültürü araştırmaları (studies on the culture of the Turkish people), 1990/1, Türk Mutfağı (Turkish cuisine).
  5. ↑ a b At home in Almanya - Turkish-German Stories & Living Worlds DOSSIER Heinrich Böll Foundation November 2011 mentions Eberhard Seidel-Pielen: Skewered. How the kebab came across the Germans. Hamburg 1996.
  6. ↑ At home in Almanya - Turkish-German Stories & Living Worlds DOSSIER Heinrich Böll Foundation November 2011 .
  7. ↑ Eberhard Seidel-Pielen : Skewered. How the kebab came across the Germans . Rotbuch, Hamburg 1996, ISBN 978-3-88022-901-3 .
  8. ↑ Turkish fast food: kebab inventor Kadir Nurman is dead . Article from October 26, 2013 in the portal spiegel.de , accessed on October 26, 2013.
  9. ↑ The German kebab comes from Reutlingen. Reutlinger General-Anzeiger , May 6, 2012, accessed on January 20, 2016 .
  10. ↑ Eberhard Seidel-Pielen: Skewered. How the kebab came across the Germans . Rotbuch-Verlag, Hamburg 1996, ISBN 3-88022-901-5 , p. 164 f . Quotes from home in Almanya - Turkish-German stories & worlds. (PDF) Dossier. In: Heinrich Böll Foundation Migration Integration Diversity. Amin Farzanefar, Lale Konuk, November 2011, pp. 54–60, here p. 57 right column, center , accessed on August 7, 2020 . Available under Editorial At home in Almanya - Turkish-German stories & worlds. In: Heimatkunde - Migration Policy Portal. Heinrich Böll Foundation .;
  11. ^ Article in FR, accessed on September 24, 2011 .
  12. ↑ See Çağlar, Ayşe: McDoner. Doner Kebap and the Social Positioning Struggle of German Turks. In: Janeen Arnold Costa / Gary J. Bamossy (eds.): Marketing in a Multicultural World. Ethnicity, Nationalism, and Cultural Identity, Thousand Oaks / London / New Delhi 1995, pp. 209–230, quoted in Home in Almanya - Turkish-German Stories & Living Worlds DOSSIER Heinrich Böll Foundation November 2011 .
  13. ↑ At home in Almanya - Turkish-German Stories & Living Worlds DOSSIER Heinrich Böll Foundation November 2011 .
  14. ↑ Tagesspiegel: In Istanbul, Remzi Kaplan from Berlin is building Europe's largest kebab factory .
  15. ↑ KGeld of October 11, 2006, article "The kitchen is gone" by Andrin C. Willi .
  16. ↑ Stefan Nehrkorn: How the kebab came across the Germans , Humboldt Society, lecture from October 22, 1997.
  17. ↑ Guidelines for Meat and Meat Products , website of the BMEL .
  18. ↑ Leaflet - Identification of “Doner Kebab” and “similar” products when sold in bulk. In: lgl.bayern.de. Retrieved March 28, 2019 .
  19. ↑ Cordula Stadter, Carsten Rau: Germany, your kebab - what are we actually eating there? , SWR - concerns from June 13, 2018 (YouTube of 7 July 2018)
  20. ↑ a b c d Gastronomy: The Döner Robot from Gauting , Süddeutsche Zeitung , December 15, 2017, accessed on February 18, 2018.
  21. ↑ Allee-Center: In “Le Dö”, “Der Gerät” cuts meat. Westfälischer Anzeiger website , June 3, 2014, accessed on February 18, 2018.
  22. ↑ Will the kebab robot invade our high streets? from The Guardian website , August 16, 2015; accessed February 18, 2018.
  23. ↑ a b c Alkadur RobotSystems: "The device" automates the kebab shop , on ingenieur.de, September 14, 2012, accessed on February 18, 2018.
  24. ↑ a b Turk unwraps doner kebab robot on theregister.co.uk, March 30, 2010, accessed February 18, 2018.
  25. ↑ a b Meat-cutting robot at Germany's 1st doner kebab fair on The Sydney Morning Herald's website , March 28, 2018, accessed on February 18, 2018.
  26. ↑ World's First Doner Kebab Robot on robotliving.com, March 29, 2010, accessed on February 18, 2018.
  27. ↑ Die Welt : Kebab bag summer trend , accessed on June 19, 2012.
  28. ^ Abendblatt.de: The woman from Harburg who reinvented the kebab. Retrieved January 30, 2017 .
  29. ↑ Peter Aeschlimann: [Looks strange, but tastes good] , Tages-Anzeiger from March 23, 2010.
  30. ↑ "Vöner". In: Online vocabulary information system German . Institute for the German Language , accessed on March 27, 2019 .
  31. ^ Report of the Tagesspiegel about the process (May 16, 2008) ( Memento of June 22, 2008 in the Internet Archive ).
  32. ^ Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung: Meat scandal: Every second kebab is complained about . In: FAZ.NET . September 5, 2006, ISSN  0174-4909 ( faz.net [accessed October 23, 2018]).
  33. ↑ Turks smell the kebab conspiracy SPIEGEL online, accessed on February 9, 2015.
  34. ↑ Suzan Gülfirat: "The bad meat has turned into sausage" - How Turkish newspapers report on the delivery of Bavarian disgusting meat to kebab manufacturers , tagesspiegel.de, September 10, 2007, online at tagesspiegel.de .