Divriği
| Divriği | ||||
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| Basic data | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Province (il) : | Sivas | |||
| Coordinates : | 39 ° 22 ' N , 38 ° 7' E | |||
| Height : | 1250 m | |||
| Residents : | 10,286 (2018) | |||
| Telephone code : | (+90) 346 | |||
| Postal code : | 58 300 | |||
| License plate : | 58 | |||
| Structure and administration (as of 2019) | ||||
| Structure : | 28 Mahalle | |||
| Mayor : | Hakan Gok ( CHP ) | |||
| Postal address : | Mercantepe Mahallesi Nuri Demirağ Caddesi No: 3 58300 Divriği |
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| Website: | ||||
| Divriği County | ||||
| Residents : | 16,377 (2018) | |||
| Surface: | 2,632 km² | |||
| Population density : | 6 inhabitants per km² | |||
| Kaymakam : | Muhammet Öztabak | |||
| Website (Kaymakam): | ||||
Divriği , Kurdish Dîvrîgî , in Byzantine times Tephrike , is a small town in the Turkish province of Sivas in Central Anatolia and the capital of the district of the same name. Divriği is located about 100 km southeast of the provincial capital Sivas.
The city, founded in the 9th century, is best known for a Seljuk building complex consisting of a mosque and a hospital from the beginning of the 13th century. A mosque within the castle ruins and several Muslim tombs ( Türben ) in the old town date from around the same time . Another residential area contains well-preserved residential buildings from the Ottoman era.
location
Divriği lies on the edge of a valley floor, through which the Çaltı Suyu flows in a south-easterly direction. To the north of the city, the river valley narrows at the steep rocky nose of the fortress hill and meanders in tight curves between rocky mountains to the east until the Çaltı Suyu meets the Euphrates coming from Erzincan . At the confluence, the Euphrates makes a sharp curve to the south, only to be dammed shortly afterwards at the Keban Dam . In the gently undulating plain, mainly small-parceled grain fields are laid out; the surrounding, often furrowed hills are overgrown with grass and treeless. With the exception of the valley plains, the entire region cannot be used for arable farming and is only sparsely populated.
district
The district is located in the southeast of Sivas Province and borders on Kangal County in the west, Zara and İmranlı counties in the north, İliç and Kemaliye counties in the east (both Erzincan Province ) and Arapgir , Arguvan and Hekimhan counties from Malatya Province . The district is crossed by the D260 trunk road in a west-east direction (Kayseri – Kangala – Elazığ).
In addition to the district town, the district consists of 105 villages ( Köy ) with an average of 58 inhabitants. The scale of the population goes from 262 ( Beldibi ) down to 12 ( Akbaba ). 38 of the villages have more than 58 (= average) inhabitants, Demirdağ and Kayacık became Mahalle of the district town in 2018. The population density is very low, the urban population is 52.81 percent.
Industry
The largest iron ore reserves in Turkey are mined a few kilometers north of the city . The very rich magnetite deposits developed in the 1930s represent the main livelihood of the inhabitants. The ore is transported by rail a good 900 kilometers north towards the Black Sea . There it is processed in the steelworks in Karabük and Ereğli , which are close to the coal mining areas.
traffic
The main road connection from Divriği runs over the 1950 meter high Karaşar Gecidi pass in the Yama Mountains ( Yama Dağı ) 70 kilometers to the west, where it meets the expressway between Sivas and Malatya in the plain near the small town of Kangal . From here to Sivas it is another 68 kilometers. Another road leads south-east about 180 kilometers to Elazığ . There is no direct road connection to Erzincan in the east. Coming from this direction, the railway line from Erzurum follows the Karasu , as the northern source river of the Euphrates is called, via Erzincan and the last part before Divriği through numerous tunnels in the narrow valley of the Çaltı Suyu and continues from Divriği to Sivas. The station is one kilometer north of the city center on the river in the plain. Several buses run daily to Sivas. Buses that continue south via Malatya are less common.
history
In ancient Greek texts the area is called Apbrike . After the division of the Roman Empire in 395, it belonged to the Byzantine Empire . The name Apbrike was later adopted for the Tephrike fortress, strategically located above the narrowest point of the river , which has been mentioned since the Middle Byzantine period (from the middle of the 7th century). At the end of the 6th century, Sassanids invaded Anatolia several times , Melitene (now Malatya ) and Tephrike suffered the same frequent changes of power. In 575 or 576 the Byzantines inflicted a heavy defeat on the Sassanids in the battle of Melitene . In the course of the Islamic expansion around 650, Arabs invaded Anatolia.
Around 843, the Byzantine village of Tephrike became a refuge and center for the Armenian Paulicians , who founded the first city with the support of the Abbasid rulers of Melitene. The heretical sect members of the Paulicans were particularly persecuted by the Byzantine mother empress Theodora II (r. 842-867) before their leader Karbeas turned to the emir of Melitene, who assigned them Tephrike for settlement. There they developed under the protective power of the Caliph of Baghdad into a regional power center in Central Anatolia, expanded the fortress and undertook campaigns against the Byzantines. In 872, Emperor Basil I (ruled 867-886) defeated their head John Chrysocheir in a battle and conquered the city. The majority of the weakened and leaderless Paulician moved to Thrace , where they exerted influence on the later sect of the Bogumils . The city of the Paulicians may not have encompassed much more than the area of the citadel.
Tephrike belonged to the Byzantine Empire until 1071. At that time a Byzantine military leader sat here, initially with the title kleisourarch , later his name was strategos . The Divriği Valley may not have been particularly wealthy at the time. In 1071 the Seljuks under the leadership of Alp Arslan defeated the army of the Byzantine emperor Romanos IV in the battle of Manzikert . After the battle (around 1100), Tephrike came under the control of the Turkish tribal leader Mengücek , a vassal of the Seljuks who was a principality ( Beylik ) in Eastern Anatolia, which existed until at least 1252. The city, called Divriği since then, now expanded on the slope southwest below the castle. One of the early buildings of the Mengücek dynasty was the mosque within the castle, which at that time obviously served as a Friday mosque before the Great Mosque was built a little below in 1228/29. In 1252 the Mongols under Hülegü besieged the city and after their conquest destroyed the fortress and city wall as everywhere. A few years later, Divriği was rebuilt.
Under Selim I , the city became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1516 . On a hill on the opposite side of the river, a regional ruler ( derebey ) built the Kesdoğan Kalesi fortress in the late 17th or 18th century . It seems that at this time the place was quite small, most of the population lived within the fortress walls and the rulers needed another defensive structure because of the enemy threat. In the 19th century Divriği had grown again, the inhabitants profited from the trade, especially with copper ore, which was mined at Ergani Maden (near Diyarbakır ) and Keban and transported through the valley in a western direction. In the 19th century, the residential area a little further down in the valley, now west of the thoroughfare, was built. At the end of the 19th century the houses directly south of the citadel were given up.
Cityscape
In 2008 there were 11,388 residents in the city and 17,476 in the district. The thoroughfare from Sivas to Malatya runs in a north-south direction at the foot of the fortress hill. To the east of this, the compact business district forms an irregular road network that rises steeply upwards. The medieval tombs stand between the houses. The development ends at the Great Mosque, behind which footpaths lead up to the fortress ruins. The residential area, which extends to the west in the valley, is more spacious, but less densely built up. There are two hotels next to each other at the northern entrance to the old town. The bus station is 500 meters south of the center on the road to Malatya.
Great mosque and hospital
One of the most important medieval buildings in Asia Minor is the Great Mosque and Hospital ( Ulu Camii ve Darüşşifa in Turkish ) built by an emir of the Mengücek dynasty . The long rectangular building faces south, where the former hospital is located on around a third of the area. The northern wing of the mosque is a five-aisled pillar hall, the mihrāb of which is embedded in the partition between the two parts of the building. The portal of the hospital on the west wall and the two portals of the mosque on the west and north wall are extremely elaborately designed with fully plastic geometric and plant ornaments.
fortress
On the relatively flat western slope, the fortress was protected by a double wall, within which the medieval housing estate may have been. Almost its entire length of the lower of the two walls has been preserved as a ruin. A row of defensive towers protruding from the surface reinforced the masonry, which was partially still standing upright at its original height. The outer shell consists of large, regularly joined stone blocks with bosses and roughly bevelled edges. Between the massive round towers, two polygonal towers have been preserved, of which the northern one originally had a cavity inside. At the southern polygonal tower - in the middle of the western side - was the entrance, through the cantilevered arch of carefully hewn stones today's path leads upwards. The enclosure wall was built during the reign of Mengücek ruler Ahmad Shah in the 1230s and 1240s. A northern torrest is dated 1236/37, a southern part 1242/43. During new excavations behind the entrance in the years since 2000, house foundation walls and water pipes were exposed.
Above a rock edge on the southern edge of the fortress rises a rectangular defense tower, which was built in 1252 by Salih, the son of Ahmad Shah. At its upper end remains of thrown openings ( machiculi ) can be seen. The upper defensive wall began here, which - as far as it could be reconstructed - ran in a straight line to the north. The two walls on the western slope were connected at their southern ends by a single southern wall. Two protruding polygonal defense towers, the stone blocks of which have an almost smooth surface, served to reinforce it. The steep slopes in the north and east were protected by a wall running directly along the edge and at one point in the north were designed as a lookout point. To the northeast, some old stone stairs lead to a cliff above the river.
Kale Camii
The castle mosque ( Kale Camii ) was built in 1180/81 under Sayf al-Din Shahanshah (ruled around 1171–1196), the grandfather of Ahmad Shah. The building, which was completely destroyed in 2007-2008, has a rectangular basilica floor plan with three naves. Three pillars in each row are connected to each other by pointed arches . The central nave is covered by a barrel vault, the two side aisles by a row of four domes, the circular shape of which is achieved from the square base via pendentives . The symmetrically arranged domes of the same size were an innovation. The original wooden minbar and an inscription with the name Süleyman bin Shahanshahs (ruled around 1197 - around 1229) were moved to another mosque and are now lost. The flat gable roof is covered with sheet metal on the outside. The outer walls consist of small-sized rubble stones, which are now jointed, and are unadorned.
Only the portal in the north wall is designed with smooth stones. A high two-tier rectangular frame surrounds the ornamental field ( tympanum ) above the door, which is framed by a keel arch . A wide band with a diagonal grid pattern runs along the inside of the frame. The tympanum is filled with a star-shaped bas-relief. The keel arch and triangular fields between the arch and the outer frame are filled with brick patterns: the portal is the earliest clearly recognizable example of the Persian-Seljuk ornament combination of stone, brick and faience in Asia Minor. Above the keel arch is the Kufi founding inscription with the year 576 AH (1180/81 AD). Baasan bin Fīrūz (Hasan ibn Piruz) from Maragha signed as a builder ( ustad ) .
Armenian Church
On the western slope below the citadel are the ruins of an Armenian church, which probably dates from the end of the 19th century. Her Armenian name is Uc Horm , in Turkish she is simply Yukarı Kilise ("Upper Church"), to distinguish it from a "Lower Church" that has practically disappeared. The three-aisled basilica with a wider and higher central nave ended in the east with three vaulted apses . The walls are made of rectangular, but roughly joined stone blocks. The north and south longitudinal walls are divided on the inside with four blind arches over pilasters that imitate three narrow round columns. High arched windows between the blind arches provided light in the north wall. The south wall facing the slope is presumably buried by a later landslide up to the eaves, the southern of the three smaller apsidal windows is also buried. The north and east walls and a large part of the south wall have been preserved.
Old town
Custom Melik Türbesi
The Türbe is at the top of the old town, northwest of the Great Mosque. In the past, the path coming from the plain forked here to the left in the direction of the Mengücek settlement in the castle and to the right to the souq . Over the centuries, the area around the tomb developed into a cemetery called Aşaği Qubbe Mezarliği ("Lower Dome Tomb Cemetery"). The carefully restored Türbe was completed in 1195/96 as a mausoleum for the Mengücek ruler Shahschahan, who died at the end of the 12th century. It was named after the custom Melik Hatun (Arabic Sitta Malika), a lady who in 1365 brought her wealth into a foundation ( waqf ) for the benefit of the Great Mosque. It is believed that she is also buried in the Türbe. In 1464 a Mamluk governor was buried here.
The sultan's mausoleum became the model for the other, more simply designed grave structures from the Mengücek period in Divriği, in which subordinate princes or rulers are buried. The architecture of an octagonal tower building that ends with an equally high roof structure (or with a conical roof) is typical of a Seljuk kümbet . The design focuses on the entrance designed as a portal. The entire entrance facade is surrounded by a meandering band in high relief. On the inside there is a flat ornament with consecutive circles, which are traversed by double stripes in eight directions. Under the horizontal, wider ornamental surface above the door there is an inscription stone on which the name of the founder is mentioned. The door is set back by a triangular muqarnas niche, the surrounding and only slightly indicated keel arch is supported by freely carved corner pillars. Below the eaves there is a geometric braided band, above it a honeycomb-shaped cornice and above this a long historical inscription.
Other buildings in the old town
The Kamareddin Türbesi from 1196 stands southwest of the Great Mosque and is just as far away from it as the Melik Türbesi custom. Kamareddin (Kamar ad-Din) was a high-ranking government administrator who is very likely buried in one of the two unlabeled tombs inside. According to local tradition, the Türbe is said to have been built for the builder of the Great Mosque. The octagonal building with a pyramid roof is well preserved. The arch above the entrance consists of a semicircular notched band, the other walls are plain.
Further south, near the thoroughfare, the unadorned octagonal Kemankeş Türbesi has been preserved. It was built in 1240/41 by Siraj ad-Din Dandar, who presumably held an office under Ahmad Shah. It was intended for Dandar's son Nur ad-Din Salih.
The Kantaba Camii a few meters north is a new mosque from around 1900 on the site of a mausoleum from the end of the 15th century for Nasr ad-Din Muhammad († 1489), the son of a Mamluk governor of the city. His grave and that of an emir are in the mosque. The former mausoleum was commissioned by Nasr ad-Din's father Qayt Bay. The only hamam in the city can be reached from an alley in the old town via a single-arched Ottoman stone bridge . The restored Ali Kaya Hamamı bath house from 1667 is located directly on the thoroughfare.
Ottoman city expansion
In the extensive housing estate west of the thoroughfare in the valley floor, numerous residential buildings from the 19th century have been preserved. The houses consist of an external wooden frame construction. The walls were traditionally lined with clay bricks, plastered with a mixture of clay and chaff and either left natural brown or whitewashed. Streets with terraced houses, simple detached farmhouses with adjoining stables or sheds on the roadside and stately homes in gardens behind high mud walls have been preserved in the same construction method, but in different quality of execution. Drawbars inserted into the stone or mud brick walls are characteristic. Some of the remaining buildings are in a non-directional, but worthy of preservation condition, another part has been carefully restored in accordance with monument conservation requirements. The awareness of the preservation of the historical building fabric in the local administration can be seen from the information boards in front of individual buildings. So far there have been no approaches to tourist marketing such as in Safranbolu .
A'yan Ağa Konağı is a manorial complex of buildings in the Karayusuf district ( Karayusuf Mahallesi ) built by Karamahmud oğlu Mehmed Ağa around 1838 . The original floor plan consisted of a male wing ( selamlık ) in the front part according to the classic division . The rear mabeyn , from which the inner courtyard was overlooked, was connected to this via stairs and corridors . Even further back was the women's wing ( harem ). The connecting part between the men's wing and the mabeyn , the large meeting room for the men ( diwanhane ) and the stables below have been destroyed. The selamlık on the upper floor and the ancillary rooms and chambers for staff on the ground floor have been preserved. The selamlık includes a lounge ( selamlık sofası ), a main room ( başoda ), a coffee kitchen and another room.
The Hafislioğlu Ebubekir Evi is an example of a non-restored recently building. The front selamlık part dates from the 1850s, the harem behind it from the early 19th century. Some repairs were made in the 1970s.
The Tevrüzlü Evleri group of houses from the beginning of the 20th century was a separate residential area, surrounded by an adobe wall . It belonged to the Tevrüzlüoğulları family and used to adjoin the district administration building ( hükümet binası ). A special feature is the central building, towering over the others, whose lounge ( yıldız köşkü , see kiosk ) on the second floor has an octagonal floor plan.
Kesdoğan Kalesi
To the northeast of the fortress hill on the opposite side of the river, on the top of a rugged rock, you can see the Kesdoğan Castle, built in the 17th century . The way there leads near the Armenian church along the hill and steeply down into the river valley, where the railway bridge has to be crossed, further in a side valley to the north and beyond a peak in the next valley to the east. The small defensive structure occupies the entire hilltop, about 70 meters long in an east-west direction. To the west, a rock wall drops almost perpendicular to the river, just as steep are the edges in the south and east. Defensive walls were therefore only required on the northern long side. Two massive rectangular defense towers and a polygonal corner tower have been preserved. The entrance was probably to the west of the latter. A cistern carved into the rock can be seen next to the wall corner of a ruined building.
sons and daughters of the town
- Ahmet Abakay (* 1950), journalist and writer
- Feyzullah Çınar (1937–1983), folk song singer (Aşık)
- Nuri Demirağ (1886–1957), industrialist and politician
- Necdet Ergün (* 1954), soccer player and coach
- Mercan Erzincan (* 1976), singer and saz player
- Ibrahim Kaya (* 1966), architect and writer
- Refik Koraltan (1890–1974), bureaucrat and politician
- Abdullah Papur (1945–1989), singer
literature
- Volker Eid : East Turkey. Peoples and cultures between Taurus and Ararat . DuMont, Cologne 1990, pp. 101-106, ISBN 3-7701-1455-8
- Vera and Hellmut Hell: Turkey. Northern Turkey, Eastern Turkey, Southeast Turkey. Kohlhammer, Stuttgart a. a., 3rd ed. 1988, pp. 26-28
- Thomas Alexander Sinclair: Eastern Turkey: An Architectural and Archaeological Survey. Vol. II. The Pindar Press, London 1989, pp. 393-406
Web links
- Divrigi. ArchNet
- Oya Pancaroğlu: The Mosque-Hospital Complex in Divriği: A History of Relations and Transitions. Anadolu Kültür Varlıklarını Araştırma Derneği (AKVAD), Ankara 2009, pp. 169–198
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b DİVRİĞİ NÜFUSU, SİVAS , accessed on July 22, 2019
- ↑ Divrigi / Eisenberg. Kiel image database Middle East
- ↑ Taner Ünlü, Henrik Stendal, Emil Makovicki, Sönmez Sayili: Genesis of the Divriği Iron Ore Deposit, Sivas, Central Anatolia, Turkey. In: Bulletin of the Mineral Research and Exploration, 117, 1995, pp. 17-28
- ^ Anthony Bryer, David Winfield: The Byzantine monuments and topography of the Pontos. Vol. 1. Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection, Washington 1985., p. 13, ISBN 978-0884021223
- ^ Sinclair, p. 434
- ↑ Pancaroğlu, p 180
- ↑ Oktay Aslanapa: Turkish Art and Architecture. Faber and Faber, London 1971, p. 105
- ↑ Eid, p. 106; Pancaroğlu, p. 180
- ↑ Sinclair, pp. 400-403
- ↑ Sinclair, pp. 403f
- ↑ Sinclair, pp. 404f
