Silves

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Silves
coat of arms map
Coat of arms of Silves
Silves (Portugal)
Silves
Basic data
Region : Algarve
Sub-region : Algarve
District : Faro
Concelho : Silves
Coordinates : 37 ° 11 ′  N , 8 ° 26 ′  W Coordinates: 37 ° 11 ′  N , 8 ° 26 ′  W
Residents: 11,014 (as of June 30, 2011)
Surface: 174.99 km² (as of January 1, 2010)
Population density : 63 inhabitants per km²
Postal code : 83xx-xxx
politics
Mayor : Mário José do Carmo Godinho ( CDU )
Address of the municipal administration: Junta de Freguesia de Silves
Rua João de Deus, 21
8300-161 Silves
Website: www.jf-silves.pt
District of Silves
flag map
Flag of Silves Position of the Silves district
Residents: 37,126 (as of June 30, 2011)
Surface: 680.06 km² (as of January 1, 2010)
Population density : 55 inhabitants per km²
Number of municipalities : 6th
administration
Administration address: Câmara Municipal de Silves
Largo do Município
8300-117 Silves
President of the Câmara Municipal: Maria Isabel Fernandes da Silva Soares ( PSD )
Website: www.cm-silves.pt
City of Silves with castle and cathedral

Silves is a city in the Algarve in Portugal with 11,014 inhabitants (as of June 30, 2011). Silves was built on the Rio Arade , which a medieval bridge still crosses today. For a time, Silves was the residence of an emirate or seat of a bishop .

history

Early days

Neolithic artifacts were found in the vicinity of Silves; There were remains from the Copper Age on the hill of the city . These are already relics of a rural culture, to which the menhirs in the area are ascribed. The origin of the settlement is estimated to be around 1000 BC. Dated. As the oldest city in the Algarve, Silves was at the latest in the 4th century BC. First settled under the name of Cilpes by the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians . Long-distance trade has dominated the picture for a long time, because products from Greece , Phenicia and Carthage were to be found on Rocha Branca , a hill not far from Silves . In addition, coins with the inscription "Cilpes" could be found in the years 206 to 40 BC. To date.

Romans and Visigoths

Under the Romans , the settlement grew into an important city, although it had no port, but was on the edge of the Serra de Monchique . It is unclear whether the cisterns , storage pits and the city wall date back to Roman times. It is also unclear whether the old bridge is a Roman or Visigoth building, or whether it is of a more recent date. Several inscriptions, as well as ceramics and the road network come from Roman times in any case. At the end of the 5th century, the Algarve fell to the Visigoth Empire . Even during the expansion phase under Emperor Justinian I , in contrast to southern Spain, it did not fall under the Eastern Roman Empire.

Berbers and Arabs, Umayyads (713-1031)

Among the Arabic name al-Shilb or Xelb Silves was 713 part of the Umayyad -Kalifats and changed with the Iberian Peninsula to 756 by the Abbasids , in Damascus had taken power, for there had fled from the Umayyad Abd ar-Rahman I. This created the Emirate of Cordoba , from which the Caliphate of Cordoba emerged in 929 . This split up in 1031 into numerous small royal rule ( taifas ) ; Silves was conquered three times by Christian armies and finally fell to Portugal in 1242/46. Towards the end of the Muslim era in 1189, the population of Silves is estimated at around 15,000. According to the geographer al-Idrisi , the majority of the inhabitants of Silves in the 12th century were of Yemeni-Arab descent.

The Castelo dos Mouros ("Maurenburg") , built of red sandstone , dates from the 9th to the 12th century and, with its 60 m deep cisterns (aljibes), takes up about 12,000 m². The large northern, rectangular cistern with a domed vault resting on pillars supplied a considerable part of the city with water. The southern Cisterna dos Cães ("Cistern of the Dogs") is a well, as shown by the archaeological investigation of Moorish buckets that were uncovered.

The city first appeared in the sources in 845, when the diplomat and poet Yaḥyā ibn Ḥakam al-Bakrī al-Ġazāl embarked on the Arade to travel to the Normans , who had recently plundered the region as the envoy of Abd ar-Rahman II had. If you follow his own description, he should conclude a peace treaty. A law firm was set up with Prince Muladi Bakr ben Yahya , a Spanish Christian who had converted to Islam; a court resided in the city as well as an army. The Muslim part of the Iberian Peninsula, Al-Andalus , was divided into a number of sub-kingdoms, the Taifas , from 1031 onwards . This disintegration of Omayyad rule brought Silves a high degree of independence.

Taifa

Taifa of Silves, 1037

Under the rule of Ibn Mosain , Silves became the capital of a Moorish Taifa emirate in the Algarve for a long time from 1014 . The well-known poet Al-Mu'tamid Ibn 'Abbad , son of the Emir Abbad II. Al-Mu'tadid of Seville , ruled the Taifa of Silves until 1091. From 1069 he was ruler of Seville.

In 1053, Al-Mu'tadid's troops, under the command of his son Al-Mu'tamid, captured the city. The only twelve-year-old prince was raised to Wālī of the Algarve with the capital Silves. The most famous poet and friend of the prince was Muhammad ibn Ammar , who came from the Silves area. But this rule was temporarily interrupted because the Banu Muzain dominated the city. After a long siege, Al-Mu'tadid was able to recapture the city in 1063. When he died, he left the rule of Seville to his son, who in turn left the city of Silves to his poet friend. Ibn Ammar was again followed by a son of the now lord of Seville, Al-mut'azz. These decades are considered to be the phase of the greatest development of Islamic culture in Silves.

Almoravids, Murids, independent rule

When the Berber Almoravids replaced the small rulers, including those of Seville and Silves, from 1091, they brought their own builders and scholars with them, but above all new political and military strength. It was only towards the end of their rule in 1142 that a Christian army under the leadership of the governor of Toledo, Rodrigo Fernandez, managed to occupy Silves for a few years. He is said to have abducted 10,000 prisoners.

After the reconquest ( reconquista ) , the religious and political movement of the Murids arose in Silves around 1145 , going back to Ibn Qasi . Ibn Al-Mundhir, the lord of Silves, also followed this mystical movement that awaited the appearance of a Mahdi . This period was dominated by rulers like Ibn Al-Mundhir, Ibn-Qasi and the last Moorish king, whom the Portuguese called "Aben Afan". They had returned with the Almohads after Ibn-Qasi had had to give way to the murids. When revolts against the Almohads broke out in Africa, Ibn-Qasi refused to support them. When the victorious Almohads returned, Ibn-Qasi allied himself with their Christian opponent, Alfonso I , Lord of Coimbra . A group of conspirators, who murdered Ibn-Qasi in 1151, rose against this about-face. At first Ibn al-Mundhir ruled the city, but he was driven out of Silves by Ibn Wazir. From there he ruled Beja and Évora in addition to this city for a few years until 1157 .

Almohads, Christian attacks

Statue of King Sanchos I in front of the castle

In 1157 the Almohads succeeded in defeating Ibn al-Mundhir and wrested his rule from him. They built reinforced fortifications and the fortified towers of the castle. Similar to the Almoravids before, they established a centralistic and religiously little tolerant rule. At the same time, Silves prospered, and two suburbs emerged or enlarged. The city complex covered a total of 83 hectares, as excavations in the 1990s were able to show, and provided space for around 6,000 residents.

On September 3, 1189, after a long siege by a crusader army, in which Germans, English and Flemings had participated, Silves was captured and plundered again under the Portuguese King Sancho I. His bronze statue stands at the entrance to the castle today. After the victory he called himself “King of Portugal, of Silves and Algarve”, later “King of Portugal and Algarve”. According to the testimony of a crusader, Silves was better fortified by the castle and more beautiful than Lisbon by a series of mosques . The Flame Dom Nicolas became the city's first bishop.

But the Portuguese rule only lasted until 1191. The Almohads recaptured the city again. A memorial stone in the archaeological museum (Museu Municipal de Arqueologia) commemorates the renewed reinforcement of the fortifications and how the Almohads tried to give the city political and economic opportunities to recover from the war damage. The poet, who became known under the name Xilibia because she came from Silves, complained about the hard work and the consequences of the high taxes and services .

Last Muslim rule

When the Almohad Empire collapsed in 1230, Ibn Mafot (called "Aben Afan" by the Portuguese) established an independent Muslim rule around Silves for the last time. The tower called Torre de Aben Afan was named after him.

Archaeological finds from Muslim times

Blossom of the fragrant pea, an important staple food

The city's archeology museum was built over a fountain that was accessible by stairs. In addition, the expansion of the city with its suburbs and the location of important institutions such as mosques could be determined. Furthermore, it was found that the eating habits differed greatly from later ones. For example, the sweet pea ( Lathyrus cicera) was a staple food, and goats provided more than 40% of the meat supply. Unsurprisingly, however, was the complete absence of pork . Games, which the Koran also discredited, were found in the hundreds - despite known bans. In the seafood segment, mussels and cockles dominated, accounting for 44% and 37% of the finds, respectively, while oysters ranked far behind with almost 3%. The fish that prevailed with over 22% share of bream in front, followed by sea bream (14.3%) and commoners sea bream (12.2%). Bream made up almost half of the fish requirement.

When it comes to ceramics , two traditions can be distinguished. The first started in the 10th century and probably goes back to the southern Spanish palace city of Madīnat az-zahrā süd , the other more to Tunisian influences, especially from Kairuan . The former style appeared in the Silves workshops in the 10th century to be mass-produced in the 11th century. The use of manganese and a greenish color on a light background connects the older with the younger style, with the younger preferring more stylized motifs. Large vessels with distinctive decorations were only discovered in port cities, which indicates their use as a long-distance trade. Drinking water storage vessels machined with stamps, which were often of considerable size, had wooden handles and support surfaces for stands to make pouring or carrying easier. They are characteristic of Islamic ceramics. In addition to ornamentation, they often carried individual words, such as As-tawfiq (success, divine help) or Adaá (calm). Stamped water vessels appeared with the Almohads.

Metal objects from this phase were rare in all of southern Portugal until the 1980s, but in Silves and Mértola in particular there were numerous tools, jewelry, but also surgical instruments such as pliers, needles and scalpels. Glass production from the Roman period was never demolished, but it became rarer and the filigree products were only accessible to the higher strata. This revealed technical continuities that go back to the Bronze Age.

When a city library was to be built in 2001, the excavation work found remains of walls and a corner tower, as well as walls of residential buildings in a suburb that had existed since the 10th century at the latest and of which nothing was known. In the 11th century there were probably numerous tanneries in this quarter southeast of the Madina, the old town. In the Almoravid period, the wall was considerably reinforced and reached a thickness of 1 to 1.8 m. At the same time, in addition to the suburb in the south-east, another was built in the west, in which the remains of a minaret and thus probably its own mosque can be found. Finally, the remains of a water pipe and well system were found. This system was apparently abandoned after the Christian conquest of 1189 and backfilled with refuse that is of great archaeological importance today. The city's defenders also realized that the suburban walls could not withstand a siege for long and gave up the fortifications.

With the final Christian conquest (around 1248), many Muslim families left the city, and the western suburb became a Moorish quarter. The eastern suburb was gradually abandoned.

Kingdom of Portugal

Dom Paio Peres Correia and the Santiago Order of Knights ended the Moorish rule on behalf of King Sancho II between 1242 and 1246. This conquest was part of a campaign that concluded the conquest of the Algarve in 1249 with the capture of Faro . The castle was used as the residence and administrative seat of the governor, the towers as a prison. Between 1250 and 1267 Portugal and Castile fought over the Algarve, the Castilian King Alfonso X even appointed a bishop for Silves, whereas Portugal raised its own. But the Iberian powers agreed on a treaty through the mediation of the Pope. Castile finally renounced its rights to the Algarve in 1267. Dom Bartolomeo, possibly appointed by Castile, but recognized by Portugal as bishop in any case, was also adviser, chaplain and personal physician to the Portuguese King Alfons III. Construction of the cathedral began under the master builder Domingos Johannes († 1279 or 1280).

Silves received in 1266 from Alfons III. City rights granted. Eleven years later, he arranged for his treasurer in Silves to lease the royal estates in equal parts to Christians and Muslims, similar to the way in which he had already extended city rights to Muslims in 1269. Dom Dinis stayed in Silves from April 1st to 4th, 1282, several diplomas have survived from this time. In 1316 Dinis had the castle of Alvor built in Silves by his rentmaster .

Álvaro Pais , Bishop of Silves and advocate of the supremacy of the Pope over secular rulers, was forced to flee by King Alfonso IV . At the same time, the king moved the military administration from Silves to Lagos . The Portuguese discoveries were greatly promoted by one of the bishops of Silves, Rodrigo II . In 1447 he lost a ship that was equipped with his funds off Guinea. Heinrich the Navigator was the administrator of the castle property of Silves.

Short rest, queen genome

Silves Cathedral

While Silves had around 15,000 inhabitants in the 12th century, in 1442 there were fewer than 1,000 in 271 households. The river was heavily silted up, trade only reached the local markets, the city became impoverished and a large part of the population, if it had not fallen victim to the wars, had emigrated. The cathedral , already in ruins in 1444, collapsed in 1458. King Alfonso V ordered the reconstruction, but the artistic design was extremely economical.

On September 17, 1471, the Portuguese fleet landed in the port of Silves, in Portimão, after conquering African bases . On September 18, Alfons V celebrated the victory with a celebration in Silves. From around 1473 the local population increased again, the work on the cathedral and the river bridge were completed. In 1476, however, the recovery was ripped off by the fact that Portimão was given as a gift to a follower of the king.

The office of governor, which was initially exercised by Vasco Eanes da Costa Corte Real, has been hereditary within the Moniz family since Henry the Navigator . On April 14, 1491, João II transferred Silves and Faro to his wife Dona Leonor, known as Eleanor of Portugal . Silves remained in the possession of the queens, who from then on appointed their district officials. Only in 1822 did Silves (until 1834) return to the Portuguese crown. When King João died in 1495, his body was first buried in the Cathedral of Silves, but was moved to another location by his successor, King Manuel I. His friend, the bishop of Silves Dom Fernando Coutinho, received a village as a gift from the king, which is accordingly called Vila do Bispo . The office of governor passed permanently to the Perreira da Silva family through a daughter of the bishop.

Renewal of town charter (1505), departure of the bishop

In 1505 the town charter was re-certified in a royal document, which is now in the town archives. Less than 1000 inhabitants lived in the ruins of the city in the 16th century. The silting up of the Arade was primarily responsible for its decline . The bishopric, whose most famous owner in the 14th century was the Franciscan theologian Alvarus Pelagius , was moved to Faro in 1577 after an application had been made to move in 1539. The Queen, the Canons of the Cathedral and the Commander of Mértola opposed it. But that was not yet the lowest point. At the end of the 16th century, the city was largely abandoned and in ruins. Only 140 households were counted.

The Spanish Period (1580 to 1640)

The economically unfavorable situation, especially in the hinterland of the Algarve, caused by the turn to overseas trade and the silting up of the rivers, but also by the preference of the bishops for the more healthy coastal towns, caused a strong population decline in the region. By appointing judges, the Spanish kings hoped to establish a minimum of state order and control. In 1618, Alexandre Massay proposed to the Spanish court to found a university in Silves so that the inhabitants of the Algarve would not have to study in distant Coimbra or Évora. By marriage moves, another count family replaced the Perreira da Silva rulers as city lords.

The earthquake of 1755, renewed depopulation, civil war

In 1734 the city had 1,949 inhabitants again, in 1755, just before the great earthquake, 2,286. The quake destroyed the city so badly that only 20 houses are said to have remained standing. 14 residents were killed in the cathedral. The reconstruction of the almost completely abandoned city, whose dilapidated buildings were used as quarries, took more than a century. Nevertheless, men from Silves took part in the expulsion of the French under Napoleon , who in 1811 gave up the conquest after three attempts.

The open struggle that began in 1820 between the liberals, who were calling for a constitutional monarchy, and the absolutists led to the conquest of Silves on several occasions. Since Napoleon had been disempowered since 1815, the monarchies tried to eliminate liberalism on the Iberian Peninsula. France succeeded in helping the absolutists to win against the liberals, but this failed in Portugal. The attempt of 1826 to create a constitution, albeit a more conservative one than that of 1821, also fails. King Peter IV , who was both Emperor of Brazil and King of Portugal, finally chose Brazil and resigned as Portuguese monarch in 1826. His brother Michael was supposed to rule as regent in Portugal, but he aspired to the royal crown. The two brothers then fought in the Miguelistenkrieg , known in Portugal as guerra dos dois irmãos ("War of the Two Brothers"). It lasted from 1832 to 1834. After Michael went into exile and Peter died, peace seemed to be able to return, but now the left and right liberals fell out. The former were called the Setembrists , the latter the Cartists , i.e. supporters of the constitution of 1821 and that of 1826. In 1836 the Setembrists prevailed. In the meantime the region became so restless that one began to rebuild the ruined city walls. In 1835 and 1837, entire forests were burned down to defeat the rebels who fought until 1839.

Cork industry, population growth, tourism

After the victory of the Liberals in 1839, Maria dos Santos Garcia Blanco, who immigrated from Spain in 1808, is said to have introduced cork extraction , which was previously unknown in Silves . Salvador Gomez Vilarinho made a fortune with this product after starting the cork industry in the form of a factory in the city, and despite Portugal's bankruptcy in 1891. He campaigned for social issues and financed a new building for the hospital, which was founded in 1775. His workers founded their own workers' association. Vilarinho's nephew was made Count of Silves in 1903; at that time Silves had over 8,000 inhabitants. The cork factory built in 1894 was followed by a working-class district and a theater. Vilarinho was a supporter of the progressives who advocated the abolition of the monarchy, the Mascarenhas family supported the innovators; the two parties regularly faced each other in the election campaigns. Gregório Mascarenhas supported the republic proclaimed in 1910, although he came from a monarchist family. The republic had an industrial and commercial school built in Silves.

President of the Câmara Municipal was João Vitorino Mealha, in 1921 he was civil governor of the Faro district for half a year, represented Silves politically and was the first director of the newspaper O Silvense .

The population was 4,674 in 1911. It stagnated at this level for a long time - so in 1950 Silves only had 4,361 residents. At that time the municipality of Silves had 10,237 inhabitants, in 1960 only 9,014, in 1970 even 8,420. At that time the district only had 25,755 inhabitants. When the cork industry fell into crisis, the labor market shrank rapidly. The number has been slowly recovering since the 1980s, with tourism playing an increasingly important role. The long tradition and the results of successful excavations, as reflected in the city's archaeological museum and in conferences on the city's history, play a significant role.

Attractions

Chapel "Nossa Senhora dos Mártires"
  • In front of the Castelo dos Mouros castle , which with its red sandstone is not only the symbol of the city but also the main attraction, there is a massive bronze sculpture of King Sancho I. A shaft leads into a copper mine that was exploited by the Romans and later by the Moors . In addition, the Moorish cisterns , which are surrounded by 4–7 m high arches and resemble those in Cáceres and Palestine, are worth seeing. The Porta de Loulé was restored as part of the Almohad city ​​wall.
  • In place of the previous mosque, construction began on the three-aisled Cathedral in 1189, the construction of which continued in 1242 and was almost completely destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. The cathedral was rebuilt in the Gothic style but underwent some changes as a result of the frequent reconstruction and restoration work necessitated by the earthquakes. The Capela do Santissimo is decorated with azulejos and gilded carvings. Some of the crusaders who fell during the conquest of Silve were buried in sarcophagi inside the cathedral. The Capela de Nossa Senhora dos Mártires in the lower town is said to have been built by King Sancho I especially in her memory. The cathedral also houses the tomb of Dom João II , who died in Alvor in 1495 , and the sarcophagi of the bishops of Silves. As a result of the earthquake, only the Manueline portal is said to have survived from this period.
  • In the Rua das Portas de Loulé , in a modern building around a Moorish cistern, is the Museú Municipal de Arqueologia , the Municipal Archaeological Museum, with numerous exhibits from menhirs to grave sites from the Iron Age, from the Paleolithic to the Moorish era, which are unusual here is well presented.
  • At the eastern exit of the village is the Cross of Portugal , an approx. 3 m high cross made of light limestone with late Gothic and Manueline motifs. Christ is depicted on one side of the cross and a pieta on the other . It is believed to have originated in the 15th century, but the exact origin is unknown.
  • Ponte Velha, Roman bridge south of the village

administration

The town hall of Silves
Roman bridge over the Rio Arade

circle

Silves is the administrative seat of a district of the same name. The neighboring areas are (starting clockwise in the north): Ourique , Almodôvar , Loulé , Albufeira , Lagoa , Portimão , Monchique and Odemira .

With the regional reform in September 2013 , several municipalities were merged into new municipalities, so that the number of municipalities decreased from eight to six.

The following municipalities ( freguesias ) are in the Silves district:

District of Silves
local community Population
(2011)
Area
km²
Density of
population / km²
LAU
code
Alcantarilha e Pêra 4,972 46.26 107 081309
Algoz e Tunes 6,491 44.88 145 081310
Armacao de Pera 4,867 7.99 609 081303
Sao Bartolomeu de Messines 8,430 239.87 35 081305
São Marcos da Serra 1,352 166.07 8th 081306
Silves 11,014 174.99 63 081307
District of Silves 37.126 680.06 55 0813

Population development

Population in the Silves district (1801–2011)
1801 1849 1900 1930 1960 1981 1991 2001 2011
10,509 15,509 29,598 34,461 33,368 31,389 32,924 33,830 37.126

Town twinning

traffic

The place is connected to Lagos , Faro and Vila Real de Santo António by the Linha do Algarve railway line . It is five kilometers on the 124-1 expressway from junction 6 (Lagoa) of the A22 motorway. Silves is integrated into the national bus network of Rede Expressos .

sons and daughters of the town

literature

  • José Domingos Garcia Domingues: Silves. Travel guide for town and district. , ed. by the Cámara Municipal de Silves, 1st edition 1988, 2nd edition, Silves, undated [2002] (In contrast to the title, it is less a travel guide than an in-depth presentation of the geography and history of the city few tourist information (the latter on p. 99-104). The section on history extends from p. 19-59 alone, plus historical sights and an extensive section on geography and traditional legends from the city.)
  • Justo Pérez de Urbel, Atilano González Ruiz-Zorrilla: Historia silense , Escuela de Estudios Medievales, 1959.
  • Thomas G. Schattner (Ed.): Archaeological guide through Portugal (= cultural history of the ancient world . Vol. 74). Philipp von Zabern, Mainz 1998, ISBN 3-8053-2313-1 p. 196

Web links

Commons : Silves  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. www.ine.pt - indicator resident population by place of residence and sex; Decennial in the database of the Instituto Nacional de Estatística
  2. a b Overview of code assignments from Freguesias on epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu
  3. www.ine.pt - indicator resident population by place of residence and sex; Decennial in the database of the Instituto Nacional de Estatística
  4. Garcia Domingues, p. 20.
  5. Dietrich Claude: Geschichte der Westgoten , 1970, p. 59. Alfred Philippson: Das Byzantinische Reich als geographic phenomenon , Brill: Leiden 1930, p. 91 assumed this.
  6. Garcia Domingues, p. 16.
  7. ^ Harald Victor Livermore: A new history of Portugal , page 55. Cambridge 1976
  8. ^ Arabic reports from ambassadors to Germanic royal courts from the 9th and 10th centuries, obs. by Georg Jacob, Berlin and Leipzig 1927, p. 37.
  9. This and the following from Islamic Silves. five centuries of occupation in eastern suburb , exhibition guide , Silves 2001 and Simon JM Davis, Maria José Gonçalves, Sónia Gabriel: Animal remains from a Moslem period (12th / 13th century AD) lixeira (garbage dump) in Silves, Algarve, Portugal. in: Revista Portuguesa de Arqueologia 11.1 (2008) pp. 183-258.
  10. Visita do Presidente da República Sidónio Pais ao Algarve in 1918: S. Brás, Loulé, Silves e Portimão
  11. APONTAMENTOS SOBRE O SÉCULO VINTE ALGARVIO (4) ( Memento of the original from February 10, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.regiao-sul.pt
  12. ^ Publication of the administrative reorganization in the Diário da República gazette of January 28, 2013, accessed on March 16, 2014
  13. anmp.pt , accessed on February 3, 2013.