Palatinate cuisine

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Grumbeersupp un Quetschekuche ( potato soup with plum cake ), here at the farmers' market in Speyer

The cuisine of the Palatinate , a region in the south of Rhineland-Palatinate , is largely determined by regional dishes . Some of them are quite hearty, not least because the recipes were developed in times of need or in the context of heavy physical work. People also like to eat spicier than in many other German regional kitchens . In the meantime, the traditional Palatinate dishes have spread across the entire Palatinate region, some even beyond.

meat and sausage

Flääschknepp with horseradish sauce
Läwwerknepp with sauerkraut, here with bread and wild herbs as decoration
Palatinate platter or “Palatine Trinity”: a liver dumpling, a bratwurst, a slice of sauerkraut with gravy, bread and wine on the wooden table of an excursion restaurant

At least in name of the most famous Palatinate dish is the Saumagen , which even butchers and cooks compete to prepare . A mixture of lean pork, sausage meat, potatoes and possibly onions , seasoned with marjoram , nutmeg and pepper , for example , is cooked in an empty and cleaned pig's stomach. There are many variations with other ingredients and spices. The actual Saumagen is only used as a cooking container. The solid mass after cooking is served directly sliced ​​or sautéed later sliced.

Coarse sausages , Palatinate liver sausage and the “Grieweworscht” ( greath sausage) called blood sausage , “Läwwerknepp” or “Läwwerknedel” ( liver dumplings ) and “Flääschknepp” (meatballs that are usually served with horseradish sauce) are important components of the Palatinate cuisine.

As in neighboring Alsace (France), sauerkraut was and is the typical side dish - in every season, but especially in winter. Dishes often include mashed potatoes and brown sauce. In excursion restaurants, instead of mashed potatoes, slices of bread or gristles , a kind of rustic rye roll , are often served.

There are also combinations of these dishes, e.g. B. the so-called leaning sack , which consists of a sausage and a liver dumpling, or the Palatinate Trinity (liver dumplings, sausage, Saumagen).

At the Palatinate-style slaughter festival , butcher soup , kettle meat , warm liver and crackling sausage as well as liver dumplings are part of the basic menu.

fish

In the Middle Ages , numerous streams that run from the Palatinate Forest to the Rhine were dammed into fish ponds by monastery inmates or farmers . Even if many of them have been given up, you can still find traditional restaurants with a wide range of fish in the middle of the Palatinate Forest. Today this offer mostly goes beyond the old freshwater fish species such as trout , roach , pikeperch , pike and carp .

A second rich tradition in the preparation of fish existed along the Rhine, which was extremely rich in fish for centuries before industrialization. In all the old cities there were professional fishermen who z. B. lived in Speyer on Fischergasse . A variety of species have been caught, with salmon and eels being particularly important. At the southern end of the Rhine promenade in Speyer, the steel Aalschokker Paul , which was built in 1926 and served the town's last professional fisherman until 1965, is a testimony to this past . The collapse of stocks, the disappearance of many species and, after industrialization, the inedibility due to industrial toxins eliminated this source for many years. Despite the loss of the once rich fishing grounds and the sharp decline in fish farming, there are still restaurants in the old communities bordering the Rhine that specialize in fish, either directly on the Rhine or nearby. The traditional fishermen's festivals with their wide range of backfish still take place there.

Already in the Middle Ages, large quantities of pickled herring and dried fish, such as cod , were imported as fasting foods via the Rhine from the North Sea .

Others

Steamed noodles
At the booth: Grumberry soup and squeeze cake
Quetschekuche

In the Pfalz is Dampfnudel salted crust a traditional main dish which either sweet supplements (for example, wine sauce, vanilla sauce or eingekochtem fruit as mirabelle , plums , pears or the like) or with saline supplements (for example, potato soup , vegetable soup , stew or pork pepper ) is eaten.

In the Vorder- and Südpfalz it is common to first serve a vegetable or potato soup with steamed noodles, and then in the "second course" to serve the steamed noodles with a sweet sauce.

During the plum season, “Grumbeersupp un Quetschekuche” (potato soup with plum cake) is eaten. For dessert there is “ Kerscheplotzer ”.

The "Gebreedelde", the Palatinate fried potatoes , which are often enriched with pieces of bacon or liver sausage, are well known.

“Gequellde with white kees”, that is, jacket potatoes with quark , which is seasoned with onions, caraway seeds, pepper or chives, are also a popular dish.

As a snack , especially when working in the vineyard are Weck, Worscht un Woi , so rolls, sausage and wine.

Another seasonal dish is the combination of Zwiwwelkuche un neier Woi , i.e. onion cake and new wine .

Regional differences

Front and South Palatinate

The most important product of the Palatinate agriculture and also one of the most famous export items is the Palatinate wine. Its cultivation takes place predominantly in the front and south Palatinate in the area of ​​the wine route , where a particularly mild climate prevails on the western edge of the Rhine plain and in the protection of the Haardt mountain range . Traditionally, Riesling , Müller-Thurgau , Silvaner and Kerner are the main white wines . The main red wines are the Blauer Portugieser and the Dornfelder . For more information, including smaller regional varieties and newly grown varieties, see Pfalz (wine-growing region) .

Wine is not only drunk with food, it is also often used as an ingredient, be it in sauces or desserts.

Because there are plenty of chestnut trees on the edge of the hair, dishes with chestnuts ( keschte or keschde ) are common in autumn and at Christmas time . Roast duck or hare with red cabbage and chestnuts is a traditional festival and Sunday meal. Chestnuts are often served with the game dishes offered in the Palatinate Forest . The upscale gastronomy has also adopted various chestnut dishes from Italy and France in recent years.

In addition to almonds , kiwis and citrus fruits , figs also thrive here in the open air , the main cultivation area of ​​which in Germany is the Palatinate. The cuisine of the Front and South Palatinate in particular therefore has a Mediterranean flair and, especially in recent years, has also tended towards Mediterranean lightness.

Many types of vegetables and potatoes are grown on fertile loess soils in the Vorderpfalz and asparagus is grown on the sandy soils of the Rhine plain .

The seemingly French love of the Palatinate people for good food is also expressed in the folk festivals in the region, which often focus on eating or drinking. In addition to countless wine festivals like the Woi- / Quetschekuchekerwe in Neustadt-Haardt and the Wurstmarkt there as the Asparagus Festival in Dudenhofen , the pretzel festival in Speyer , the radish festival in Schifferstadt , the Radieselfest in Dannstadt-Schauernheim , the Loschter Handkeesfescht in Lustadt that Kirschenkerwe in Grünstadt- Sausenheim , the Bellemer Grumbeerfeschd in Bellheim or the Saumagenkerwe in Kallstadt .

West Palatinate

In the West Palatinate , people are even more into " Hooriche " (hairy ones ), small potato dumplings made from raw, grated potatoes that are served with cream and bacon sauce, "bowls" , large potato pancakes whose dough is made with bacon, onions, lots of nutmeg, etc. seasoned and mostly cooked in a cake pan in the oven, "Lakzervelat" , a sausage made from cured meat, which is offered as a specialty between Christmas and New Year and is mostly cooked in sauerkraut, as well as the "Anduddel" , also a very spicy one intended for cooking Mettwurst .

Frontier workers

In the Palatinate border area with France , the echoes of the neighbors can also be felt. Dishes like tarte flambée are popular here and are often served with new wine . Roman snails have also found their way onto Palatinate plates from Alsace.

literature

  • Anna Bergner: Palatinate cookbook . A collection of 1002 practically proven recipes of all kinds, based on 30 years of experience. Along with an attachment of 28 different menu lists. Verlag Löffler, Mannheim 1858 ( online ).
  • Emmy Braun (Luise Jacob) : New Palatinate cookbook for middle-class and fine cuisine . (11 editions). Schäffer, Grünstadt 1886.
  • Judith Kauffmann : The Saumagen - A journey of discovery into the heart of a Palatinate kitchen classic . Verlag Plöger Medien, Annweiler 2004, ISBN 3-89857-204-8 .

Web links

Commons : Palatinate Kitchen  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Art in public space. City of Speyer, accessed on June 27, 2014 (search term “aalschokker”).