Ilanz / Glion (city)

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ilanz / Glion
Coat of arms of Ilanz / Glion
State : SwitzerlandSwitzerland Switzerland
Canton : canton of Grisonscanton of Grisons Graubünden (GR)
Region : Surselvaw
Political community : Ilanz / Glioni2
Postal code : 7130
Coordinates : 734 972  /  181945 coordinates: 46 ° 46 '30 "  N , 9 ° 12' 22"  O ; CH1903:  seven hundred thirty-four thousand nine hundred and seventy-two  /  181945
Height : 702  m above sea level M.
Area : 4.67  km²
Residents: 4700 (2014)
Population density : 1006 inhabitants per km²
Website: www.ilanz-glion.ch
View from the east

View from the east
map
Ilanz / Glion (city) (Switzerland)
Ilanz / Glion (city)
w w
Parish before the merger on January 1, 2014
Historical aerial photo from 600 m by Walter Mittelholzer from 1923

Ilanz / Glion (German [ˈilants] / Rhaeto-Romanic [ʎɔn] ? / I ) is a small town in the municipality of Ilanz / Glion in the Surselva region of the Swiss canton of Graubünden . Audio file / audio sample

Until December 31, 2013, the city belonged to the political municipality of the same name Ilanz , which consisted of the city and since 1978 Strada in the Oberland . Together, the two places had 2353 inhabitants (December 31, 2012). Since January 1st, 2014 they belong to the new community Ilanz / Glion , which is the result of a merger of Ilanz, capital of the former district of the same name , with the former communities Castrisch , Duvin , Ladir , Luven , Pigniu , Pitasch , Riein , Rueun , Ruschein , Schnaus , Sevgein , Siat came into being. The community advertises with the motto "The first city on the Rhine".

location

The city is located on the Vorderrhein in the middle of the wide Gruob hollow , at the entrance to the Lugnez valley , a few kilometers above the Ruinaulta Rhine gorge . As a regional administrative center, seat of the regional hospital , market and school location , Ilanz forms the center of the lower Surselva .

history

Ilanz around 1830
The first known photograph, around 1870, view from the southwest

The settlement mentioned in a document in 765 in the will of Bishop Tello is mentioned as a city under the name Illiande in 1289 . The meaning of the name is unclear; "Kornscheune" proposed by Johann Ulrich Hubschmied is questionable. At the beginning of the Middle Ages there were three settlement centers: Ober-Ilanz near the church of St. Martin , Unter-Ilanz in today's Städtli and St. Nikolaus on the left bank of the Vorderrhein. For the time being, the center of the village was probably Ober-Ilanz, where the rural market cooperative had its seat. Here also resided the minister of the Frankish king for the administrative district Tuverasga to which the whole Gruob belonged. In Unter-Ilanz, in the area of St. Margarethenkirche and the Casa Gronda, was the episcopal grand courtyard, which Bishop Tello had bequeathed to the Disentis monastery in 765 .

The meaning of Ober-Ilanz was soon replaced by Unter-Ilanz. With the fall of Frankish rule, Ober-Ilanz lost its importance as the seat of the minister. In addition, the importance of the large courtyard of the Disentis Monastery in Unter-Ilanz had grown, as the abbey gained political and economic importance from the 10th century. The traffic over the Lukmanierpass also increased, so that Unter-Ilanz, located on the Lukmanier route, gained in importance.

The third core of the settlement, St. Nikolaus, is likely to be the same, if not older, than the Städtli-Quartier, despite the lack of references in documents due to settlement-historical considerations; Archaeological finds show that the Lukmanierweg must have passed here in prehistoric times. Due to the economic and political privileged position on the Rhine, the Ilanzer probably obtained city ​​rights in the second half of the 13th century . According to medieval law, the privilege of a city included the right to its own market, its own court and city ​​walls .

While the market rights of the Ilanzer remained undisputed, they did not succeed in breaking away from the Gruob in judicial matters . After all, the city received a so-called city or civil court, which could settle minor disputes and was responsible for foreign market people who stayed within the walls. The Ilanzians also used the right to walls. In 1390 the town had walls and gates, because a treaty from that year reports that Baron Caspar von Sax had given Stephan Sporer to inherit ain hoffstat ze Inlantz in the stat bi dem undern tor on the ring muren under the nüwen ärggel (bay window ) by Rüdis Schniders hus .

The same treaty of 1390 also mentions a stat right and won inlantz . You only learn more about its exact content around 1529 or 1534: then sy (the Ilanzer) vii order in irer instead of having the right to hofstetten, techeren, lanes, ödgesselynen (small alleys)… even so, sy have a hard time keeping and ouch viI other complaints, it sy with wuren or bannholtz ... also another essay about the for cause and also about ire order of the würen (inns) half a gift . Apparently the city law contained a kind of building code, regulations for bridge construction and Wuhren as well as fire police and economic regulations.

In spite of its town charter, Ilanz was not a free town like the imperial towns of Zurich and Bern, but belonged to a town lord who was entitled to numerous compensation in the form of interest and duties and who levied a tax on the citizens for protection against enemy attacks. In the late 13th and 14th centuries, the city was ruled by the Barons of Belmont , named after their Belmont castle near Fidaz . The Belmonters, who owned almost all of Gruob and Lugnez , had to defend their property in 1352 against Herr von Werdenberg -Heiligenberg, who invaded the Gruob with his troops and set fire to Ilanz. In 1483 a fire destroyed the city and St. Margaret's Church. The year 1513 on the first floor of the Obertor indicates that the city was rebuilt relatively soon.

In 1371 the barons of Sax -Misox became the lords of Ilanz; they had inherited the last Belmonter after the death of the latter. It was under them that Ilanz began a rapid rise to global importance. In 1395 Abbot Johannes von Disentis, a native of Ilanz, Count Albrecht von Sax-Misox and Baron Ulrich the Mighty von Rhäzüns concluded the Part Sura Peace Treaty, which later formed the basis of the Gray Covenant , which was later expanded in Truns . The importance of Ilanz soon extended beyond the actual federal territory, after all, after the union of the three leagues with Chur and Davos, it was the meeting place of the general federal assembly, the highest authority of the Graubünden Free State.

Ilanz's central importance grew even more important in the age of the Reformation . The disputations that were decisive for the Reformation in Bünden were held in St. Margarethenkirche at the beginning of the 16th century . The Ilanz Disputation, a religious debate held in January 1526, paved the way for the Reformation in Graubünden, which developed into a confessionally mixed state. In the Ilanz articles of June 25, 1526, the rights of the parishes vis-à-vis the Chur bishop were decisively strengthened. Ilanz is one of ten Swiss towns that in 2017 received the label "Reformation City" from the Federation of Evangelical Churches . The first Evangelical-Rhaetian synod met in the same church in 1538 . Ilanz was reformed and remained so for around three hundred years. In the 19th century, immigrant Catholics reintroduced the Catholic faith and built a church in the center of today's city in 1879.

From 1546 to 1563 the persecuted Tyrolean Leopold Scharnschlager found refuge in Ilanz and worked here as a schoolmaster. In the underground he worked as the leader of a small Anabaptist community .

During the turmoil in Graubünden at the beginning of the 17th century, Ilanz was on the side of the French and Venetians . For many opponents of Spain given shelter, it had to pay for it under Austrian occupation. As a result of need and poverty, the belief in witches spread , which led to numerous witch trials in Ilanz for a number of years .

When Bünden was courted by the great powers of Europe for its geopolitical position in the late 17th and 18th centuries, Ilanz took an active part in political events through the Schmid von Grüneck family . The Schmid von Grüneck were the most important family in the city. The family first appeared in Ilanz at the end of the 14th century and died out in the 18th century. In 1544 it was raised to the nobility by Emperor Karl V and was allowed to carry the title "von Grüneck" after the castle of the same name , which was already in ruins at the time. Ilanz also owed the initiative of the Schmid von Grüneck family for the help of the Reformed cities of Zurich and Bern in rebuilding the walls and decorating the gates from 1715 to 1717.

When the French dissolved the old state system at the end of the 18th century and the country became part of the Confederation as a canton in 1803, Ilanz lost its importance as the federal capital and as a conference venue. As the capital of the Ilanz district, however, it retained a certain political importance.

population

Population development
year 1835 1850 1900 1950 2000 2014
Residents 574 663 (with Strada) 981 1640 2488 4700

In contrast to the previously predominant Sussylvanian idiom of Rhaeto-Romanic , German has predominantly established itself as the colloquial language. Nevertheless, on the occasion of the last census, a narrow majority of the population stated that they regularly speak Romansh, and the planned introduction of a bilingual primary school should strengthen the traditional language somewhat.

religion

View from the west. Watercolor by Samuel Birmann

Since the Reformation, introduced in 1526, Ilanz has traditionally been a Reformed village. As a result of immigration from the predominantly Catholic surrounding area, the majority situation reversed in the course of the 20th century. The establishment of the Evangelical Association Gruob and the surrounding area in 1919 was related to this .

The federal census from 2000 showed the following denominations of the inhabitants of Ilanz: 63.4% Roman Catholic, 22.5% Protestant, 8.4% other religious communities, 3% without affiliation. The city has three churches, the reformed church Ilanz (Margarethenkirche) in the “Städtli”, the reformed Martinskirche on the road towards Lugnez and the Catholic Church of the Assumption.

In Ilanz which formed in the 19th century Congregation of Dominican Sisters . Since 1970 the community of sisters has lived in the Ilanz Monastery, which was newly built by Walter Moser .

With his catechism Ilg Vêr Sulaz da pievel giuvan (German: The true joy of the young people ), first printed in 1611 , the Reformed pastor Stefan Gabriel founded the Rhaeto-Romanic written language of the Surselvian idiom . His son Lucius Gabriel translated the New Testament Ilg Nief Testament da Niess Senger Jesu Christ (German: The New Testament of our Lord Jesus Christ ) into the same new written language, which was printed in Basel in 1648 and reprinted nine times by 1869.

In 2016, Ilanz received the Reformation City in Europe label , which was awarded by the Community of Evangelical Churches in Europe (CPCE), on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of the Reformation in 2017 .

Attractions

In the town:

  • Reformed town church ( Gothic , with an older defensive tower included).
  • Catholic Parish Church of the Assumption.
  • Remains of the city fortifications with the Red Gate (Porta cotschna) and Upper Gate (Porta sura). This dates from 1513; Johannes Gaudenz Schmid von Grüneck had the baroque structure built in 1717.
  • Town hall.
  • Town houses: Casa Schmid, Casa Gronda (1677), Casa Carniec (since 1988 Museum Regiunal Surselva ), garden house.
  • Dominican convent Ilanz with a cycle of stained glass windows by the artist Max Rüedi .

Outside:

traffic

The Oberländer Strasse led through Ilanz from Chur over the Lukmanier Pass into Ticino . The location on a Rhine bridge - the first above Reichenau - was important for the rise of the town .

The Rhaetian Railway's Vorderrheinlinie was opened in 1903 to what was then the terminus at Ilanz and extended to Disentis / Mustér in 1912 . To this day, Ilanz station is the most important intermediate station on the line and has a high volume of goods, including a loading station for mineral water.

Postbus lines starting in a star shape from Ilanz connect the surrounding villages, including well-known holiday resorts such as Flims , Laax , Obersaxen and Vals .

After a construction period of around four years, the Ilanz West bypass was put into operation on August 10, 2016. One roundabout each on Oberalpstrasse and Lugnezerstrasse, together with the 267-meter-long Rhine bridge, should reduce daily traffic in Ilanz from around 9,400 to 4,600 vehicles. The cost was around CHF 26 million.

  • Western bypass

  • new roundabout on the road to Lugnez

  • Ilanz train station with waiting postbuses

Institutions

The Graubünden technical school for nursing had existed in Ilanz since 1940 . This school was closed at the end of 2011 in favor of the Health and Social Education Center in Chur .

Personalities

literature

  • Martin Bundi: Ilanz. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . December 7, 2016 .
  • Heinz Gabathuler, Martin Bundi , Adrian Collenberg, Silke Margherita Redolfi, Leza Dosch: Ilanzer Stadtgeschichte - Historia da Glion / Foppa. Edited by the community of Ilanz / Glion. Ilanz 2015, ISBN 978-3-033-05101-0 .
  • Ulrich Koring: The old churches in Ilanz. St. Margareten and St. Martin. U. Koring, Ilanz 2008, ISBN 978-3-033-01531-9 .
  • Anselm Quinter, Leo Schmid: Ilanz. The first city on the Rhine. Interesting facts on the tour of the old town. Illustr. by Marius Hublard. City Chancellery , Ilanz 1989, OCLC 80522855 .
  • André Schenker-Nay: The Surselva and Ilanz. A journey through time through four centuries. Somedia Buchverlag, Glarus 2015, ISBN 978-3-906064-47-5 .
  • Leo Schmid: From the story of Ilanz. In: Bündner Wald. 41. Jg., No. 3, 1988, ZDB -ID 224053-1 , pp. 19-23.

Web links

Commons : Ilanz  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wikisource: Jant in the Topographia Helvetiae, Rhaetiae et Valesiae (Matthäus Merian)  - sources and full texts

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Ilanz / Glion: The new community started in 2014. In: srf.ch, January 6, 2014, accessed on February 3, 2017.
  2. ↑ Permanent and non-permanent resident population by region, gender, nationality and age. Permanent resident population. (No longer available online.) In: bfs.admin.ch. Statistics Switzerland - STAT-TAB, formerly in the original ; Retrieved February 3, 2017 (no mementos).  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.pxweb.bfs.admin.ch
  3. ↑ Lexicon of Swiss municipality names . Edited by the Center de Dialectologie at the University of Neuchâtel under the direction of Andres Kristol. Huber, Frauenfeld; Payot, Lausanne 2005, ISBN 3-7193-1308-5 , p. 459.
  4. ↑ Further information and historical background knowledge on Ilanz as a city of major reforms. (No longer available online.) In: ilanz-glion.ch. Archived from the original on February 4, 2017 ; accessed on September 23, 2018 (various PDFs).
  5. ↑ Simon Hehli: Tour de Suisse the Reformation. In: Neue Zürcher Zeitung . November 4, 2016, p. 15.
  6. ^ Jacobus ten Doornkaat Koolman: Leopold Scharnschlager and the hidden Anabaptist community in Graubünden. In: Zwingliana. 4/11 (1926), ISSN  0254-4407 , pp. 329-332.
  7. ↑ Facts, Figures - The City of Ilanz in Figures. (No longer available online.) In: ilanz.ch. City administration of Ilanz, archived from the original on August 26, 2013 ; accessed on September 23, 2018 (as of December 31, 2011).
  8. ↑ a b Lucia Walther: Gabriel, Stefan. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . June 1, 2012 , accessed February 3, 2017 .
  9. ↑ a b Martin Bundi: Gabriel, Luzi. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . May 11, 2005 , accessed February 3, 2017 .
  10. ↑ Information event with the label "European Reformation City". Thursday, February 11, 2016 in the St. Margarethenkirche in Ilanz. In: ilanz-glion.ch. Local government, archived from the original on April 7, 2016 ; accessed on April 21, 2018 .  -
    Certificate for Ilanz / CH, the “smallest Reformation town in Europe”. In: reformation-cities.org. February 15, 2016, accessed on May 5, 2016. -
    For reasons from the historical role in the Reformation, see the section History and the article Ilanz, the city of the     Reformation. Switzerland. The Reformation “Städtli”. In: reformation-cities.org, accessed on September 23, 2018.
  11. ^ Catholic parish church of the Assumption of Mary (= other buildings and works ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  12. ↑ Upper gate (= castles and towers ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  13. ↑ Town Hall (= other buildings and works ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  14. ^ Haus Schmid (= mansions and villas ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  15. ↑ Casa Gronda (= mansions and villas ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  16. ↑ Garden house (= small architecture ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  17. ↑ Dominican convent (= modern ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  18. ^ Former parish church St. Martin (= other buildings and works ). In: graubuendenkultur.ch, accessed on August 13, 2016.
  19. ↑ Come along for a ride through the new Ilanz bypass. In: Southeastern Switzerland . August 10, 2016, accessed August 13, 2016.
  20. ↑ A fraction here means a district .