Hümmling Nature Park

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Hümmling Nature Park
location Emsland , Lower Saxony , Germany
surface 576 km²
recognition September 25, 2015
administration Hümmling Nature Park eV
district Emsland
Nature park communities Samtgemeinde Sögel , Samtgemeinde Werlte , joint community Nordhümmling , Samtgemeinde Lathen , velvet municipality Herzlake , City Haren (Ems) , City Meppen
website www.huemmling.de

The Nature Park Hümmling preserved since 2015, the same gentle hilly Geest landscape Hümmling with its forests, rivers, bogs and heath areas east of the Ems in north-east of the district Emsland . Around 42 percent of its 57,600 hectares are nature or landscape protection areas. Numerous megalithic graves , historic mills and the Baroque Clemenswerth Castle are also characteristic of the region .

Geography and geology

The Hümmling Nature Park is part of the Emsland Geopark. It contains many of the landscapes and habitats that are typical of northwest Germany, which were created during the last two ice ages and have developed since then.

location

In the west, the nature park stretches as far as the Ems and includes parts of the landscape protection areas Emstal and Natura 2000- Emsauen from Salzbergen to Papenburg . In the north, the Esterweger Dose east of Papenburg and the coastal canal mark the border, in the east the nature park extends to the Marka river and in the south to the Hase tributary to the Ems .

Landscape image

Characteristic of the Hümmling Nature Park is the juxtaposition of open fields and light forests, of near-natural and agricultural areas. The gently undulating, largely wooded Geestrücken, which runs east of the Ems, is characteristic. Its hills, which are up to 73 meters high, consist mainly of sand that was brought here during the last ice ages. In doses , the depressions between the hills, raised bogs were created , several of which have been preserved almost originally or have been renatured through rewetting. After draining and peat removal, many former bog areas are used for agriculture, others developed into charming raised bog heaths with their typically purple carpet of flowers in late summer. In addition, there are some dry heather areas with broom and bell heather and sometimes juniper on sandy soils , which still dominated the landscape of the Hümmling in the century before last.

Different watercourses also determine the image of the nature park. The typical Hümmling brooks include Ohe and Marka , which unite just south of the coastal canal to the Sagter Ems . The rivers Nord- , Mittel- and Südradde flow from northeast to southwest through the Hümmling and finally flow into the Hase and the Ems. The Ems itself created a typical north German flatland river valley, in which the sand is exposed in some places.

Geological development

The landscapes of the Hümmling Nature Park were formed during the Saale Ice Age , which began around 300,000 years ago and ended around 120,000 years ago. Glaciers , which in their maximum extent reached approximately to today's Ruhr area, transported different sediments and rocks, the origin of which can still be proven today. In and on the Geestrücken, you can find clay , sand , gravel and boulders that originally come from Scandinavia and the Baltic Sea region.

The glaciers of the Vistula Ice Age 115,000 to 10,000 years ago only penetrated as far as the current course of the Elbe . Nonetheless, this cold period also shaped and shaped the landscape further south in the Hümmling Nature Park: As the soil froze in permafrost, the forests disappeared, resulting in expansions in dry and cold times. This is how the Geestrücken was created with its dunes and elevations such as the 73 meter high Windberg near Werpeloh .

The significant rise in temperature at the beginning of the Holocene around 10,000 years ago caused the water to thaw and flow again: the typical Hümmling brooks formed in their sandy beds. In low-lying plains and small depressions, the cans , rainwater accumulated on impermeable soils. Peat moss settled here . Their remains did not decompose in the nutrient-poor and almost oxygen-free lakes, so that bogs grew over the millennia. About one millimeter is added every year.

history

People have lived on the Hümmling for around 5,500 years and have helped shape the landscape.

Neolithic

When the first people settled in north-west Germany around 3,500 BC during the Neolithic Age, the Hümmling also became a rural cultivated land. The first settlers grew wheat and barley, peas, beans and lentils, and raised goats, sheep, cattle and pigs. All of this food was found as grave goods in megalithic structures , dozens of which have been preserved in the Hümmling Nature Park. Many have a characteristic design known as the Emsland Chamber : They are only a few meters wide, up to 28 meters long, framed by an oval of smaller stones and mostly oriented from east to west. They all have one thing in common: all of the deceased members of a family or village community were apparently buried in them over a longer period of time. In addition to food, various pieces of jewelry, weapons, tools and - in the northwest - the typical funnel beakers were found as grave goods .

Iron age

Such barrows were built over a period of about 700 years, then the burial culture changed. Examples of this can also be found in the Hümmling Nature Park: The Mansenberg Mountains and the Männige Mountains are burial mound fields that were created during the Bronze Age and the pre-Roman Iron Age . Around 80 burial mounds have been preserved in total.

Middle Ages to early modern times

Over the millennia, the Hümmling remained a region characterized by agriculture, in which the farmers were only poorly prosperous until modern times, as the sandy and poor soils yielded little. Coveted commodities could only be produced through beekeeping and sheep keeping in heathland areas and pig farming in forests. Stockings and other wool products were sold as far as Amsterdam , honey, beeswax and ham as far as Osnabrück , Bremen and Hamburg .

The more intensive the agricultural use became, the larger the completely sterile areas became. Because wherever the forests were cleared or grazed too heavily to gain arable and pasture land, the sand lost the hold that the tree roots had given it. This created large-scale heather and dune landscapes that shaped the landscape in the 18th and 19th centuries.

A systematic colonization of the moors based on the model of Papenburg, the longest fen colony in Germany, took place in the Hümmling moors late and on a much smaller scale. Initially, the culture of the bog fire played an important role: drained bog areas were set on fire and then cultivated. However, the peat ash was depleted after just a few years. The German raised bog culture brought better yields over a somewhat longer period towards the end of the 19th century , as mineral fertilizers were now available. So the buckwheat grown on the pitted areas developed into an important food and trade good. At around the same time, systematic afforestation began in the Hümmling. It prevented sand being blown from deserted areas and the bare dune landscapes from expanding further.

20th and 21st centuries

It was only with the construction of the coastal canal in the 1920s that large-scale peat mining began in today's nature park. The artificial waterway facilitated the drainage of the moors and the transport of the peat .

Between 1933 and 1945, thousands of prisoners were forced to work in the moors: the concentration camp of the same name existed in Esterwegen for almost the entire duration of the Nazi reign of terror. Due to the inhumane conditions of imprisonment, imprisonment and forced labor in the "Hell in the Moor", many people of many nationalities lost their lives here.

After the Second World War, further moorland and heather areas were reclaimed in today's Hümmling Nature Park as part of the Emsland plan. Huge deep plows mixed the peat with the sand from below. With this German mixed sand culture , arable land was created that still enables good harvests to this day. The Emsland Plan, which was concluded in 1989, brought the region a sustained economic upswing, which continues to this day and which is by no means restricted to the agricultural sector. This is particularly evident in the low unemployment rate and strong medium-sized entrepreneurship.

Agriculture continues to shape the landscape of the Hümmling. In addition, more and more nature reserves have been designated since the middle of the 20th century. In this way, although this was not initially the focus, the prerequisites for natural and sustainable tourism, which also plays an increasingly important role economically, arose.

Natural spaces and protected areas

Before human intervention, beech and oak mixed forests with individual moors as well as river and stream landscapes dominated today's Hümmling Nature Park . Where the original habitats have been preserved, they are now under protection. In addition, flora and fauna worthy of protection developed in cultural landscapes such as the heath .

Forest

The almost 13 hectare nature reserve Tinner Loh east of Haren (Ems) gives an impression of the original primeval forests of the Hümmling with its up to 500 year old beeches.

pagan

Heath is a cultural landscape that can only be preserved with constant care and grazing - for example by sheep. A historic sheepfold in the 16-hectare nature reserve Windelberg in Börger reminds of the original use of this landscape . In addition, an old juniper grove and an English oak forest have been preserved in the reserve.

In the nine-hectare hill grave heath nature reserve near Groß and Klein Berßen , the "Mansenberge", the association uses land under Bentheimer Landschafe for grazing and thus protects both: an old breed of domestic animals that is threatened with extinction and a cultural landscape that was created almost 4,000 years ago. The 80 or so hills, some of which are three meters high, are Bronze Age graves.

Another burial mound field from this period can be found in the Männige Berge nature reserve north of Spahnharrenstätte . Here, too, are the millennia-old burial grounds in a sandy heath with individual pines and birches .

Flowing waters

The landscape protection area Mittelradde-Marka-Südradde is part of the almost 4,400 hectare bird protection area Niederungen of the Süd- and Mittelradde and the Marka . The numerous native species include the curlew , lapwing , black-tailed godwit and meadow pipit .

The nature reserve Oberlauf der Ohe is much smaller . On the near-natural Hümmlingbach there is not only wet grassland but also an alder forest.

In the lowlands of the Nordradde, the Schaapmoor nature reserve preserves a mosaic of wet grassland, wet fallow and swamp forests on an area of ​​210 hectares.

In the west, the Hümmling Nature Park extends into the Emstal and Natura 2000-Emsauen protected landscape areas from Salzbergen to Papenburg. Along the partly natural river banks there are different habitats with moist tall herbaceous vegetation, natural forest complexes, oxbow lakes, inland dunes as well as poor meadows and pastures.

Raised bogs

The Esterweger Dose nature reserve is part of what was once the largest raised bog area in Europe. Peat extraction is still permitted on large areas until 2036; in other areas, in addition to raised bog areas that can be renatured, there are also moor forests, transitional and swinging grass bogs and moist high herbaceous meadows.

In the neighboring Leegmoor nature reserve , peat mining ended decades ago. At the beginning of the 1980s, the first attempt to renature a dismantled black peat area began here. Today there are different moorland habitats in the protected area, including a non-peated raised bog with raised bog heath and grassland, the Timpemoor. A ten meter high observation tower provides a good view of the Leegmoor.

High moors in the nature reserves Theikenmeer and Moorwiesen am Theikenmeer have also been successfully rewetted since 1978 by the voluntary initiative of the NABU local group Werlte / Sögel. Today they are again an important resting place for migrating water birds.

In the Bockholter Dose nature reserve , rewetting began in 1998, so that former peat cuttings are now filled with water. They are in different stages of silting up. The 123 hectare area is a mosaic of grasslands, bog forests and large open bog and heather areas. It is part of the bird sanctuary Niederungen der Süd- and Mittelradde and the Marka. Mittelradde and Marka have their origins here.

In the Tinner Dose - Sprakeler Heide nature reserve lies the largest, naturally preserved high moor in Germany. Only on its edges was peat cut by hand on a small scale until the 19th century. The Sprakeler Heide is the largest common heather area in the Emsland with numerous inland dunes . The area has been used as a military test and exercise area since 1877, today by the Wehrtechnischen Dienststelle für Waffen und Munitions (WTD 91), so that any other use is still not possible. In this way an extraordinarily diverse flora and fauna was preserved.

Attractions

Clemenswerth Castle is a unique baroque palace. Around the central building, eight pavilions are grouped and connected by avenues of linden trees so that they form a hunting star, a typical element of baroque garden and landscape design. The complex was built between 1737 and 1749 by Johann Conrad Schlaun for the then sovereign Elector Clemens August . The furnishings of the central building have largely been preserved in an authentic manner, and various exhibitions from the Emsland Museum can be seen in the pavilions.

The most impressive barrows in the Hümmling Nature Park are linked by the Route of the Megalithic Culture , a cultural route of the Council of Europe , or the Megalithic Culture Cycle Route. On the way are De Hoogen Steener (Werlte), among others , which are considered one of the largest megalithic complexes in Central and Northern Europe. At individual stations on the holiday route, a collection of different systems can be viewed in a very small space. Four Neolithic sites can be found at Deymanns Mühle in Stavern, six along the short walk along the Hümmling Hünengräberstrasse (Groß Berßen), including the coat of arms grave of the Emsland district. The best-preserved facilities include the large stone grave on Bruneforths Esch (Stavern), De Hoogen Steener (Werlte) and Volbers Hünensteine (Hüven).

In addition to the church towers of the numerous villages, some historic mills also form landmarks in the nature park that can be seen from afar. Perhaps the most unusual is the Hüvener mill , which is powered by both wind and water power. In the mill museum at the Mersmühle in Haren (Ems) you can see historical equipment as well as numerous mill models that illustrate almost all common designs. Also worth seeing are the Hilter mill (Lathen), the water mill Bruneforth (Stavern), Kreutzmanns mill, the Herrenmühle (Meppen) and the Hölting mill (Meppen).

There are two open-air theaters in the region: The Waldbühne Ahmsen is considered to be the most popular non-professional open-air theater in northern Germany. The Emsland open-air stage in Meppen is also played by an association of honorary theater enthusiasts - both with two productions per year.

In the north of the nature park is the Surwolds Wald recreation area with a climbing course, summer toboggan run, mini golf course, fairytale forest and outdoor pool. The highlight is the 32 meter high observation tower, which allows a wide view of the Hümmling landscape as far as Papenburg.

As a central memorial site, the Esterwegen memorial commemorates the 15 Emsland camps, a group of concentration, criminal and prisoner-of-war camps from the time of the Third Reich.

The Alte Dorfstelle Wahn is a deserted settlement, which was exposed in large parts in 2007 and made tangible through a circular path of almost two kilometers. In 1941 the almost 1,000 villagers were evicted to expand the neighboring shooting range.

free time activities

The Hümmling Nature Park can be explored on foot or by bike. It is integrated into the cycle path network of the district of Emsland and is made accessible through the supra-regional cycle route of megalithic culture and the Emsland route . The Hümmlinger Pilgerweg circular hiking trail is popular in the region . The 92-kilometer trail primarily heads for religious sites, but also opens up many interesting natural landscapes.

In addition, nature park tours on various topics are regularly offered from spring to autumn.

Web links

See also

Individual evidence

  1. Hümmling Nature Park - Official website. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  2. ^ The district of Emsland - geography, history, present; Page 168.Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  3. Natural landscape of the humpback. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  4. ^ The district of Emsland - geography, history, present; Page 224. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  5. ^ The district of Emsland - geography, history, present; Page 269. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  6. ^ The district of Emsland - geography, history, present; Page 409/410. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  7. gedenkstaette-esterwegen.de - Esterwegen Memorial. Retrieved November 26, 2019 .
  8. ^ Emsland district: Emsland district - Emsland plan - district description - The Emsland. Retrieved November 26, 2019 .
  9. ^ The district of Emsland - geography, history, present; Page 172.Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  10. "Tinner Loh" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  11. "Windelberg" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  12. Nature reserve "Hill grave heather near Big and Small Berßen" | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  13. Heide, Schafe, Orchideen: Bentheimer Landschafe. Retrieved November 26, 2019 .
  14. "Männige Berge" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  15. Landscape protection area "Mittelradde - Marka - Südradde" | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  16. EU bird sanctuary V66 lowlands of the Süd- and Mittelradde and the Marka | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  17. "Oberlauf der Ohe" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  18. "Schaapmoor" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  19. ^ "Natura 2000-Emsauen from Salzbergen to Papenburg" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  20. "Esterweger Dose" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  21. "Leegmoor" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  22. Protected areas: Theikenmeer - NABU Lower Saxony. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  23. "Bockholter Dose" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  24. "Tinner Dose-Sprakeler Heide" nature reserve | Nds. State agency for water management, coastal and nature conservation. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  25. ^ Clemworth | Hümmling Nature Park. Retrieved November 19, 2019 .
  26. Great stone graves & megalithic culture | Hümmling Nature Park. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  27. Historical mills. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  28. Waldbühne Ahmsen. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  29. Emsland open-air theater in Meppen. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  30. Surwold Forest Recreation Area. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  31. gedenkstaette-esterwegen.de - Esterwegen Memorial. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .
  32. Wahn use olde Heimat - history and present of the former Hümmling community. Accessed November 20, 2019 (German).
  33. Be active in the Hümmling Nature Park. Retrieved November 20, 2019 .