Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

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Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Blason paris 75.svg
Park in Paris
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Rotonde on the Île du Belvédère, 2012
Basic data
place Paris
District 19th arrondissement ,
Quartier du Combat
Created 1867
use
Park design Jean-Charles Alphand , Gabriel Davioud a . a.
Technical specifications
Parking area 24.7 hectares

The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont [ paʀk de byt ʃomɔ̃ ] is an English-style landscape garden in the northeastern 19th arrondissement of Paris . 1867 for the world exhibition under Napoleon III. opened, the jardin public, designed by Jean-Charles Alphand , is now one of the city's large parks with just under 25 hectares.

The park was built as an artificial landscape on the steep terrain of a quarry on the edge of the former garbage dump in Paris. He integrates the history of his place into a reference system of technology, culture and perception of nature and is therefore counted among the avant-garde landscape architecture of his time. His conception is considered paradigmatic for the Parisian urban redevelopment under Baron Haussmann . Garden historians call it “ picturesque par excellence” .

Surname

Butte means a hill in French, Chaumont is a compound of French chauve (bald) and mont (hill). According to Georges-Eugène Baron Haussmann, the name came from the fact that the local soils made of clay, solid marl and lime “absolutely refused to allow any vegetation”.

There is also a second possible origin of the name: Almost a hundred years before Haussmann, the butte was also called Saint-Chaumont , apparently after the Christian community Filles de Saint-Chaumont from Paris and northern Saint-Denis. Their parish hall was the old Paris town house of the Minister of State Melchior Mitte de Chevrières († 1649) from Saint-Chamond, known as the Marquis de Saint-Chaumont . When Paris was expanded in 1860, the butte gave its name to the newly founded 19th Arrondissement des Buttes-Chaumont in Paris .

geology

Location within Paris

The Butte de Chaumont arose - like the Butte Montmartre - as part of a lagoon system during the Upper Paleogene ( Priabonium ). About 35 million years ago, the Paris Basin was cut off several times by tectonic shifts from the open North Sea. As a result of the warm climate, a large part of the increasingly salty water evaporated, which withdrew into small lagoon areas and formed sediments of gypsum there .

Renewed marine pressures led to the formation of intermediate layers of marl , which drained and compressed the gypsum deposits ( diagenesis ) and protected them from new dissolution in water. The Butte de Chaumont has three plaster stores with a total thickness of more than 25 meters, the youngest being the most powerful at 17 meters. They were spared from erosion in the Quaternary by a final overlay with clay and marl . The Paris Buttes rise today about seventy-five meters (Butte de Chaumont) to one hundred meters ( Butte de Belleville and Butte Montmartre ) above the level of the Seine (26 m above sea level).

history

The Butte de Chaumont before 1860

View of Paris from the Butte de Chaumont , 1620

Until the Middle Ages, the hill was rarely used due to its sterile soil. From the 13th to the 18th century, the notorious gallows hill of Gibet de Montfaucon was at its western foot . From the 17th century on, there were some windmills at the top of the steep slope, including the Moulin de la Folie (Mill of Madness) with a view of Paris.

At the site of the present park were from the French Revolution a dump (Grande Voirie) , septic tanks (Fosses de la Grande Voirie) and knacker whose "pestilent haze" so wondered Alphand, depending on the wind all over the city. Between nine and fifteen thousand horses a year were covered and gutted here and their carcasses disposed of in the open air. As a result, there have been numerous reports of severe rat plagues as far as the neighboring communities. The consumption of horse meat began in the 18th century with the cover shops at Montfaucon . A few meters west of today's park, animal fights between bulls and packs of dogs were held from 1781 (Combat de Taureau) , which gave the park's current district (Quartier du Combat) its name. Visitors called the area around the Butte de Chaumont "wild and hideous".

The Butte de Chaumont also became famous locally as a place of resistance against the overpowering coalition troops in the Battle of Paris during the Napoleonic Wars . Artillery batteries were stationed on the hill and inflicted great losses on the Prussian troops when they marched into Paris on March 30, 1814. Skirmishes also took place near the sewer pits. In memory of the courageous defense, the hill was increasingly called “holy” Butte Saint-Chaumont in the following decades .

Mining

Carrières d'Amérique . Engraving from 1863

Although the Romans used plaster of paris to paint the houses in Lutetia , the Butte de Chaumont was only used as a quarry for the extraction of marl, clay and above all gypsum from the 17th century and increasingly from the late 18th century . This was obtained from sediment layers up to 17 meters thick and exported to the USA due to its high quality. The district to the east of the park inherited its name from the local quarry and is still called Quartier d'Amérique today . Initially only in opencast mining, the gypsum was also extracted underground from large caverns and tunnels up to 61 meters deep from 1810 . Around 1860, around 800 miners were employed in the three quarries du Center , Buttes-Chaumont and d'Amérique . They extracted around one hundred and fifty thousand cubic meters of gypsum per year on an estimated total area of ​​almost one hundred hectares, a quarter of which was underground. Gypsum burners processed the mineral on site into plaster of paris (plâtre) . The local cement factories of the Schacher and Letellier companies enjoyed a good reputation nationwide thanks to the purity of their products. In addition to building materials, plaster of paris was then in demand as a material for stucco work and art sculptures as well as for the production of coloring and polishing powders. The last mountain tunnels on the Butte de Chaumont , the Carrières d'Amérique , were filled in in the 1870s. They had to give way to the fast growing city.

Planning and construction under Napoleon III.

In the Second Empire under Napoleon III. the area became part of Paris in 1860. In 1862, at the suggestion of Baron Haussmann , the Conseil d'État decided to purchase the Carrière du Center quarry . The following year it was bought from the operating company for around 2.5 million francs. The steep terrain was considered unsuitable for any kind of trade and, because of the hollowed out soil, too dangerous for urban development. As part of the Paris urban redevelopment, Haussmann wanted the site to be converted into a public promenade in order to improve the quality of living in the area and, according to the city administration, to "regenerate" the "wicked quarter, breeding ground for thieves, bohemians and tramps". After its completion, the costs of the park should be offset by a sale of the adjacent land. In 1863 it was planned to surround the park with boulevards (voies de luxe) in order to lay the foundation stone for a new luxury quarter.

Jean-Charles Alphand, portrait by Alfred Philippe Roll (1889)

Haussmann entrusted the conception to the engineer and town planner Jean-Charles Alphand , who had already designed the Bois de Boulogne and Parc Monceau . Alphand was supported by the landscape gardener and Jardinier en chef de la ville Jean-Pierre Barillet-Deschamps , the engineers Jean Darcel for the rock structures and Eugène Belgrand for the hydraulic engineering, and the general inspector of the Parisian architects Gabriel Davioud , who designed the structures. The main actor in the implementation of the plans was the Jardinier principal of Paris Édouard François André .

In the three years of construction from 1864 to 1867, huge amounts of earth were moved and mountains were literally moved. To this day, the works are referred to as "travaux titanesques" , as superhuman work. Around a thousand workers, around a hundred horses and two steam engines were in action. They moved around a million cubic meters of earth and topsoil with hundreds of lorries from a specially constructed railway. The just invented dynamite is also said to have been used for blasting. In a major landslide, sixty to eighty thousand cubic meters of earth went down into the valley, and the construction plans had to be changed. The rough earthwork alone took a year: In the south of the park, an existing hill (Belvédère du Sud) was raised and raised by ten meters. The slopes, furrowed by the mining industry, were formed evenly; Alphand had almost vertical walls cut into the central rock and the island of Île du Belvédère was created with a large opening . Then two years of work was done on the roads and the backfill of the site with humus . At the same time, planting began at the end of 1865.

Emperor Napoleon visited the large construction site in June 1865 and on January 30, 1867. He was critical of the design of the facility, the construction of which kept causing new problems. 13 mountain tunnels below the planned lake collapsed and left depressions. The bridge at the Porte Secrétan entrance began to slide and had to be replaced; architect Gustave Eiffel was commissioned to build a more stable one. In order to prevent the erosion of the new soil in many places, numerous walls covered as rocks were built. Reinforced concrete (beton armé) , patented in 1867 by the Parisian gardener Joseph Monier , was used as an innovation to secure the paths and expand the grotto .

Construction of the rock face, undated

With the problems, construction costs rose and criticism arose. In 1866 Haussmann had to defend the building before the Conseil municipal . He emphasized the urban significance of the park as a connecting element (“trait d'union”) of the north-eastern districts. The “complete transformation” of this “haunted place” is indeed considerably expensive - but helpful to promote the “well-being” and “custom” of the Parisians. After the earthworks had been completed and the new landscape was planted with almost twenty thousand trees, three dozen gardeners were employed to look after the park. However, it took up to two years after the opening to finally complete the work. According to André, the construction costs came to a good 3.4 million francs. Baron Haussmann described the total cost of the park of almost six million francs as "relatively enormous": at that time 16 million francs were estimated for the construction of the monumental Paris Opéra Garnier .

As part of the Paris World's Fair in 1867 , the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont opened on April 1st. While “the whole world” was exhibited on the Champ de Mars , the exhibition of the city of Paris was concentrated in the park: the savoir-faire of urban engineers with their technical achievements, the new developments in horticulture and the renovation of Paris under Haussmann should be included get a representative setting for the park. The complex attracted international attention and the criticism was almost entirely positive; only the popular Irish botanist and author of The Wild Garden William Robinson described the artificiality of the rocks as "presumptuous and unnatural". The park became the model for parts of the Palmengarten in Frankfurt am Main, which opened in 1871, and the Wiener Türkenschanzpark from 1888.

During the Third Republic

During the Franco-Prussian War , a week after the siege of Paris began in September 1870, there was a very large fire in the park, the smoke of which caused excitement among the Parisians. The lake basin where oil barrels were stored went up in flames. More than half a million liters of oil burned.

Defeated Communards in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont , May 1871

In 1871, during the Paris Commune , the park was one of the last bastions of the Communards , who, under the leadership of Gabriel Ranvier, dropped bombs against the advancing troops of the Thiers government from here . Only at the end of the bloody May week was the park captured by the troops on May 27th. The soldiers are said to have fused eight hundred people here with great brutality and buried them in the abandoned shafts of the neighboring Carrières d'Amérique . Around three hundred corpses were floating in the water of the lake.

With the new construction of the town hall in 1878 on Place Armand Carrel, the park moved into the center of the 19th arrondissement. The building, opposite the park entrance and also built by Davioud in the neo-Gothic style Flamand , can be seen from many places in the park. At the turn of the century, numerous prestigious residential buildings with a view of the park were built at the town hall and the adjacent Rue Manin . At the Porte Secrétan entrance , the Fondation Ophtalmologique Adolphe de Rothschild built an ophthalmology clinic in 1905. Its large, rustic brick building by the architect Léon-Maurice Chatenay was considered innovative, and treatment was free in the first few decades. Regardless of these new buildings, the bourgeois transformation of the entire district that Haussmann had hoped for failed to materialize. Adjacent to the upper part of the park, a large water reservoir was created in 1887 on Rue Botzaris . In addition, the studios of the film pioneer Léon Gaumont were built from 1895. Around 1914, the Gaumont Studios Buttes-Chaumont were one of the largest film studios in the world with an area of ​​around one and a half hectares.

After the weather attacked the limestone of the rocks, the first renovations were necessary. In 1899, the fragile north-east face of the Île du Belvédère had to be renovated. New brickwork and a gray cement plaster cover the light stone here since then. The suspension bridge was reconstructed in 1892 (and a second time in 1972). In 1901 the road network with its dilapidated wooden stairs and fences was renovated. The engineers Combaz et Chassin designed eye-catching rustic railings made of reinforced concrete with a wooden structure, which still shape the park today.

Between 1910 and 1912 a metro line was built in the shafts of the old quarry below the park. Buttes Chaumont station at Porte Fessart is one of the lowest in Paris. Their platforms are around thirty meters below the surface. During the Second World War, the metro station is said to have served as an operating theater.

Resistance and Rénovation (1940 to today)

Sunbathing lawn on Avenue de la Cascade , April 2007

In 1944, shortly before the liberation of Paris , the exit of the railway tunnel in the park was the scene of a successful resistance action by the Resistance . Under the leadership of Madeleine Riffaud and with great sympathy from the population, an ammunition and material train of the Wehrmacht was stopped at the tunnel exit on August 23 . Two dozen Wehrmacht soldiers were taken prisoner.

At the end of the war, German soldiers left the park badly damaged, and a bronze statue of the revolutionary politician Jean-Paul Marat from 1887 was also destroyed. The Kiosque à Musique was dilapidated in 1946, the paths furrowed, the lake dried up. Ten years later, in 1956, the park was in a “poor general condition”: the lake was still dry, the Sibyl's Temple was about to collapse, and the grotto and suspension bridge were closed. At that time, the park only narrowly escaped planned destruction. A project to tear down the temple and convert the lake into a sports field could be averted. By ministerial decree of June 23, 1958, the park was declared a landscape protection area (Site classé - Pittoresque) , which regulates structural changes particularly strictly.

From around 1990 the surrounding residential areas were "outposts" of a sustained wave of gentrification from the western to the eastern Parisian districts. The old Gaumont studios, used and expanded by television since the 1950s, were demolished in 1996 to make way for apartment blocks.

A hurricane in December 1999 caused great damage to the park. Hundreds of trees buckled. Four years later, a series of renovations began. The planting was adjusted to the original condition, in 2011 concrete was injected into the limestone soil to consolidate the subsoil. From January 2013 to the end of 2014, more extensive work was carried out, during which the park roads were restored to their original condition with macadam pavement and the sewerage and the original irrigation system from 1867 were renovated to save water. In 2011 the artificial waterfall used 3.5 million liters as much water per day as a larger small town. The park is visited by an estimated three million people each year.

The park

architecture

Plan by Alphand, not north , 1867

Almost four kilometers northeast of the Paris city hall Hôtel de Ville is the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in an asymmetrical kidney or paisley shape on the northwest slope of Belleville . Its outline is reminiscent of a curve ruler (English: French Curve ). It offers a very hilly, lively landscape with steep rocks, numerous, sometimes quite sloping lawns and old trees. Its area of ​​24.7 hectares is accessible by a branched and winding network of paths. Wide, gently rising road ( "allées carrossables") of over five kilometers in length are connected by steep, a total of two-kilometer pedestrian paths as parcours created enable "smooth motion" dead ends there is not.

The writer Louis Aragon described the park in "three sectors": a north-eastern part on the Rue de la Crimée , a central one around the lake and a tapering, southern part, consisting of the belvédère du sud viewing hill . The middle sector is by far the largest; in its center lies the “roughly square” lake, enclosed by three hills. To the north, the site flattens out and opens up to the main entrance on Place Armand Carrel . The north-eastern part consists of two hills that unite in a saddle over the entrance of a railway tunnel. Between the lowest and highest point, the lake and the belvédère du sud at 105 m above sea level. NN, are almost fifty meters in altitude.

Île du Belvédère with rotunda, 2010

In a cavern of the old quarry in the center of the park, a grotto was built - “inevitably”, according to Haussmann . 20 meters high, stalactites up to eight meters long hang from the ceiling. A 32-meter-high water cascade falls into the grotto, which is fed by a specially constructed pump from the Canal de l'Ourcq , around a kilometer away . Another artificial stream flows down a slope in the western part of the park in a stream bed modeled on a mountain rock.

The water flows into the approximately one and a half hectare artificial lake, over which a suspension bridge by the architect Gustave Eiffel spans almost 65 meters in length. This leads to the island of Île du Belvédère , whose almost vertical rock faces are modeled on the Falaise d'Aval on the steep coast of Étretat. On the top of the rock, at a height of 30 meters, is the Sibyl's Temple built by Davioud , a replica of the rotunda of the same name in Tivoli , Italy near Rome. From here there is a line of sight to the Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre . A second stone arch bridge, 22 meters high, called "Pont des Suicidés" (Bridge of the Suicides), connects the island with the upper part of the park, from where there is a panoramic view from Butte Montmartre over the high-rise buildings of the Quartier de la Villette to Saint-Denis .

The Petite Ceinture in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, 2017

The park integrates the Chemin de Fer de Petite Ceinture , which was opened in 1854 and closed in 1993, and was a symbol of modernity and progress in the 19th century. Their tracks cross the northeast of the park in a steep valley cut, and then flow into a tunnel. A very similar topography can be found in the southern counterpart of the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont , the Paris Parc Montsouris , opened by Alphand in 1869 , which the same railway line also crosses.

Alphand designed the park in an industrial landscape heavily furrowed by open-cast mining. He exposed the central rock, deepened the valleys and formed a water and mountain landscape that complements the natural geology and lets the history of the place shine through. His method is known as the “ art of accommodating leftovers” . It creates new order by placing a “creative spirit” over disordered cityscapes. The overwritten topography of the park makes it an example of a place as a palimpsest . Landscape architects also speak of “superimposing recycled urban space” , the re-shaping of a reclaimed urban space.

Buildings

Architect Gabriel Davioud had a number of buildings built in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in 1867 . The most striking is the centrally located on the rocky tip of an island of Ile du Belvédère , located rotunda , called "Sibyl" ( "Temple de la Sibylle") high with about two meters podium , eight Corinthian concrete columns and skulpturverziertem dome roof with a neo-gothic finial with Pine cone ends as a tip. Decorated inside by an acanthus frieze, the outer cornice is surrounded by a corrugated frieze with ornamental volute tendrils and lion heads.

Au parc des Buttes-Chaumont 2010.jpg
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont Pavillon du Lac Alphand 1867.jpg


The Pavillon du Lac by Gabriel Davioud ; Plan of the building from 1867

Spread across the park are three so-called “chalet-restaurants” clad in red brick , which are supposed to resemble the rural Swiss house type chalet : the Pavillon du Chemin de Fer above the railway tunnel, later known as Restaurant Weber , today Guinguette Rosa Bonheur , the Pavillon Puebla near the Porte Bolivar and the pavilion du Lac above the lake, but with a nearly fifteen feet wide, supported by stone columns arbor , conservatory and the small turrets Swiss example, some elements added. With this eclectic mix he is considered a representative of the architectural style known as the Second Empire . According to André, the appearance of the restaurant pavilions should have an “amusing” effect (“aspect riant”) .

Six other smaller pavilions are used as guard houses (pavilions de gardes) at the park entrances. They are also made of red brick and end the upper floors with friezes made of colorful faience , round-edged city coats of arms under the wooden gables and wooden arbors. Their architectural style is reminiscent of the industrial architecture of that time. As if they were “gatekeepers' houses of factories”, the pavilions “flagrantly contradict” the antiquated historicism of the rotunda. Another, somewhat larger building of the same design was erected in the upper part of the park on Rue Botzaris as a residence for the senior guards (Garde-General des Promenades Intérieures de Paris) . It was last used as the seat of the District Office for the Environment and Green Areas ( Direction des Espaces Verts et de l'Environnement ). Davioud's buildings that have not been preserved include three covered viewing platforms (belvédères / salles vertes) on top of the hills.

There are four bridges in the park: a concrete bridge over the railway line; the twelve-meter-long “Pont des Suicidés” and two designs by Gustave Eiffel: the suspension bridge (passerelle suspendue) over the lake, eight meters above the water and with a span of 63.8 meters to the island. Their pylons and anchor blocks are hidden in artificial concrete rocks, and the deck is made of wood. After many years of renovation to adapt it to applicable safety standards, the suspension bridge has been accessible again since 2009. The second bridge was named “Pont Eiffel” after its architect . It is an 18 meter sloping iron bridge on a brick abutment over the avenue des Marnes at the Porte Secrétan . A smaller wire mesh bridge over the railway line has not been preserved. In 1878 a covered music stage (kiosque á musique) was opened at the lake . It was demolished after 1978. The park is surrounded by high iron bars and parts of rue Botzaris are surrounded by a high wall: it is a parc fermé .

  • The suspension bridge

  • Pont des Suicidés

  • Pont Eiffel

  • Davioud's Sibyl Temple

  • Disused railway line

flora

Rock needle in the lake, spring 2017
Corbeille des Fleurs , late summer 2011
Japanese pagoda tree, fall 2007

At first the park was quite bare. In 1869, German botanists praised the “extremely successful rocky landscape”, but criticized: “The shady side of the Buttes Chaumont is precisely the lack of shade; the plantings, which have only been laid out for a few years, do not promise any particular growth on the arid rocky ground. ”The writer George Sand called the new park a“ rock garden ”. But as time goes on, when “true nature goes to work”, the young park will be remembered as a “delicate plant that has grown and blossomed”. Sand was right:

In 2012 the park contained numerous botanical rarities and exotic trees. Among other things, four tree monuments (arbres remarquables) : A ten meter high, widely spreading Japanese pagoda tree from 1873 grows on the northeastern shore of the lake. On the opposite side of the lake, in front of the Pavillon du Lac , an oriental plane tree , 34 meters high, was planted in 1862 as part of an imposing group of three ; a little below it is a 33-meter-high ginkgo from 1913. A giant sequoia , 35 meters high, stands on the slope between Avenue des Marnes and Avenue Alphand . Other rare or large tree species in the park include a large cedar of Lebanon from 1880 at the Porte Fessart , a Kakibaum at the Avenue Jaques de Linières , Himalayan cedars , a tulip tree on the lake shore, a large North African Atlas cedar on the Pont des Suicides , Siberian elms and a milk orange tree bearing fruit in autumn on avenue Marcel .

In 1867 a total of almost twenty thousand trees were planted in the park, including 400 larger ones , 13,000 seedlings (arbres tiges) , 1,800 "special" seedlings (tiges extra) , 1,000 freestanding conifers and 2,000 conifers in groups of trees. Barillet-Deschamps chose a mixture of indigenous plants and exotic plants from the French colonies. He imitated a Vosges forest along the railway line and floodplain forests along the streams. He had 108 zones of different trees and flowers planted and published in great detail. Around 1900 palm trees grew in the park. William Robinson described the flower planting after his visit to the park in 1869 with indigofera and mahonia at the entrances, “boastful” flower cane and gladioli , “effectively” set, individual artichokes as well as saxifrage and small rhododendrons near the waters.

Barillet-Deschamps wrote later, his colleague engineers had "falsified [dénaturé] what was planned to course-picturesque by the buildings, bridges and the parcours Six years be described after his early death in 1873 put too much in the foreground." Successor André not without admiration that nature “corrects mistakes”. For example, an ivy on the water cascade displaced other climbing plants and created a “scene of beauty, unity and harmony” that “far exceeded” the initially “sought after effect”. In 1882, the specialist publication Revue Horticole complained about the destruction of the plantings by visitors from the neighboring working-class neighborhoods. Every Sunday “crowds would invade” to harvest fruits, collect herbs for teas and, above all, to pick or dig up flowers. The trees, on the other hand, have grown well in the 15-year-old park.

A good hundred years later, the "rock garden" had disappeared and trees "overgrown" the park. Various horticultural fashions had planted lines of sight, covered vantage points, and thus made the "composition of the garden" impossible to read, according to the city administration. Only the shrub plantings (massifs arbustifs) , the color and texture of the foliage and the graded arrangement of some plantings corresponded to the style of the Haussmannian garden. The planting has been gradually cut back since the beginning of the 21st century. After 2003, oval flower beds (corbeilles des fleurs) were again laid out at numerous forks in the road, which correspond to the original plans. Thanks to its ecological management, the park has had an ECOCERT label since 2009 . In order to increase biodiversity , the gardeners do without chemical pesticides and let individual lawns grow into meadows.

fauna

Among the mammal species in the park, the species piped bat , hedgehog , house mouse and stone marten have been identified. On the other hand, songbirds and waterbirds are the most striking. In addition to mallards and numerous black-headed gulls, there are various goose families, pond claws and gray herons at the lake in the winter months . Also wagtails and kingfishers were spotted. The French bird protection organization Ligue pour la Protection des Oiseaux (LPO) organizes monthly guided tours, whose participants sighted species such as nuthatches , blackbirds , middle woodpeckers and tawny owls in the park; also of crested tits , song thrushes and sparrows . The city of Paris has been licensing a fish farm including fishing permit to the Les Bons Amis des Buttes association since 2005 . The fish species released by the association in the lake included pike , tench , roach and perch .

Social use

Grande Fête , June 13, 1890

Since its opening, the population has used the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in various ways. Three phases can be distinguished:

From 1867 to 1890 private-family use predominated. Who was popular walk (promenade) as well as in children who ride in dogs or goat-drawn carriages. Horse carriages ran. The sale of toys and telescopes was approved. As the “stronghold of the picturesque”, the park was popular with foreign visitors.

From 1890 to 1940 the park was increasingly used for public gatherings, events and celebrations. From 1896 the permits for this were strictly regulated in order to protect the gardens. Concerts were given weekly, there was a fishing competition on the lake and dance events with a large orchestra in the illuminated grotto. There are also reports of the first athletes (ice skating was permitted, Vélocipèdes were prohibited). As an early exponent of base jumping , Germaine Granveaud parachuted from the Pont des Suicidés in 1924 . The collective, active use of the park predominated, the promenade began to go out of fashion.

From 1940, the park was used for family, entertainment and physical exercise. To protect the children, driving in the park was forbidden, and larger playgrounds and sports grounds were created. Schools used the park for physical education. Furthermore, parties and concerts as well as light installations were approved. More than the promenade was jogging in vogue . In 1981 the Association des Joyeux Trotteurs des Buttes was founded , which to this day offers free sports animation several times a week. The French hiking association, Fédération française de la randonnée pédestre , crossed two of its Paris hiking trails ( TP2 and TP3 ) in the park.

The park regulations from 2010 apply, which permit entry to the lawns. Barbecuing, on the other hand, is prohibited, as is bringing along and consuming alcoholic beverages. The City of Paris has been providing free WiFi internet access to all park visitors since 2007 . The transmitters ( Points Wi-Fi from Orange ) are located at the entrances Porte Armand Carrel , Porte Botzaris , Porte Fessart and Porte Bolivar . The park is closed at night.

Gastronomy and events

There are now three larger restaurants in the park: the Pavillon Puebla restaurant in the southwest, the restaurant in the Pavillon du Lac by the suspension bridge, and the Guinguette Rosa Bonheur café-dance bar in the old Pavillon du Chemin de Fer near the Porte de la Villette . In addition to these, there are a few smaller café kiosks on the lake.

For children there is a merry-go-round northeast of the lake, some small ship swings from the 19th century, which are subject to a fee, and a few playgrounds throughout the park. In the school holidays and on weekends, pony rides are offered if the weather is good. The park is also known for its two Guignol theaters. The Elderly Guignol Anatole is a small open-air theater founded in 1892 at the Porte Armand Carrel entrance. Le Guignol de Paris near the Porte Bolivar is also played in winter .

Since 2002, every August / September is the International Open Air - Short Film Festival Silhouette in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont instead. In June there has been a photography festival called les nuits photographiques in and around the Pavillon du Lac since 2011 . Small concerts are given in summer in an improvised kiosque à musique on a hilltop in the south of the park.

Reception and effect

The grotto in the old mine

The natural landscape of the park is manufactum , made entirely by hand. As a masterpiece (“chef-d'œuvre”) of the industrial aesthetics of the Second Empire, the park is an example of a cultural-historical process of “urbanization of nature”. He takes “what nature offers and increases it to art” so that both are blurred in the visitor's perception. The park is considered an “œuvre éclectique” , a multi-layered work in which the “beautiful and useful interpenetrate as well as the picturesque and the mechanical, culture and nature.”

As an expression of a “neo-pastoral way of life”, the park reflected the “landscapes of the popular excursion destinations at the time” and performed both “aesthetic” and “educational” tasks. It became a kind of “Museum of Landscapes” and made it possible to travel without leaving the city (“voyage sur place”) . The railway line through the park made the intermingling and interconnectedness of the worlds of town and country concrete.

Soon after the opening in November 1867 , the Frankfurter Journal wrote about the overwhelming architectural effect at the time :

“Suddenly the mountains break off. You stand on its highest edge and look down on a rugged rock face onto a wide, bowl-shaped mountain valley. A steep path, jumping from stone slab to stone slab, leads directly down the rock walls, from whose narrow crevices epheu, moss and gorse bushes, hovering over the abyss, draw poor food […]. Almost the entire Felsenthal is filled by a wide lake, which only leaves room for the road that jams between its banks and the mountain wall. An even higher, even more rugged stone wall rises up from its flood on the opposite bank […]. Only a bridge hovers over the abyss on thin, strong wire threads [...].
Because - so that only the reader finally knows! - The rock walls and valleys, the caves and waterfalls, the lake and the stalactite [...] are human work [...] in which the master does not appear complacent, whose creator rather hides himself so carefully, indeed completely and naively feigns nature that only the repeated and most definite assurances of an architect who helped create these miracles himself, who was gradually able to persuade us that we are looking at an entirely artificial structure. "

- From the new Paris. Didaskalia No.306 / 307 and No.308 of the Frankfurter Journal.

For the surrealists André Breton and Louis Aragon , the park manifested the “modern mythology” of the big city in the 1920s. The "sudden juxtaposition of (now barely visible) technical modernity and the illusion of nature" made the park an ambiguous, "holy place", in which "the unconscious of the city nests" and the "wild dreams of the city dwellers romp about". The mythical “feeling for nature” in the Buttes-Chaumont was the “path to consciousness” for Aragon: For him, the sensual, experienced space (espace) in the park was transformed into geometrically described places (lieux) on a mental map. This card resembled a "night cap" which, as a dream, broke through the geometrical-rational again. With this thought movement ending in the surreal, Aragon turned the Buttes-Chaumont into a “palace” in which the human being, as “great thought mechanics”, experiences “who he is”:

The Île du Belvédère around 1890

Voici le palais qu'il te faut, grande méchanique pensante, pour savoir enfin qui do es.

- Louis Aragon: Le Paysan de Paris . Chapter two: Le sentiment de la nature aux Buttes-Chaumont

In addition to Aragon, who made the park one of the central themes of his major surrealist work Le paysan de Paris (The Parisian Peasant) , published in 1926 , the park also inspired other artistic productions. Back in 1909, painted Henri Rousseau picture La Promenade au parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the style of naive art , the director Éric Rohmer turned in the park for his films Nadja à Paris (1964) and The wife of the plane (1981) and scenes of the film The Life is a Chanson (1997) by Alain Resnais play on the island of Île du Belvédère .

Numerous academic publications also addressed the park. The architecture professor Antoine Grumbach compared the winding park paths with a Möbius strip , a "universe of hidden borders". The exaggerated dimensions of the rocks and the cascade made the "false nature appear as the only true". Elizabeth K. Meyer, renowned US architectural theorist, counted the park among an early exponent of the avant-garde landscape architecture and compared it with the neighboring, deconstructivist Parc de la Villette : Despite all their differences, both parks opposed "traditional ideals of beauty and design" . Both wanted to "subvert the canonical dichotomy of nature and culture" and transform the "ugliness of modern life into a modern kind of beauty". Fused with the city through a network of paths and vantage points and using an “aesthetic system of chance, superposition and assembly”, both parks would offer a “cinematic panorama”, a film panorama of their time. However, the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is also “site-conditioned”, meaning that it is designed to be sensitive to the local conditions.

Park as a demonstration of power

Artificial hill: Belvédère du sud

Analogous to Meyer, HM Schenker, professor of landscape architecture, spoke of “melodramatic landscapes”, but also emphasized the integrative role of the park in the course of the expansion of the Paris city limits after 1860. At the same time, Buttes-Chaumont had work for the proletariat and real estate speculation in its vicinity created for the bourgeoisie. He "anchored" the new quarter, forged cohesion in the quarter and tied it into the "network of social and political influence" of Haussmann and Napoleon III. The park served as a complement to the urban redevelopment:

“When Haussmann razed Paris to allow more traffic, Alphand had a huge rock built in the middle of the park. While the maze of medieval streets was destroyed to make way for straight boulevards, […] the paths in Buttes Chaumont meander through the landscape. "

- Freytag, Anette: When the Railway Conquered the Garden: Velocity in Parisian and Viennese Parks.

The technical aspect of park construction emphasized by Alphand was also interpreted as an expression of the claim to power of the Second Empire. In a sovereign "interplay of art and ability" ("art and industry") the park should be a sign of the "rule of ideas over the topography of the earth". The publicist Georg Stefan Troller simply called the Buttes-Chaumont "incongruent". The "strained, romanticized wildlife park", however, looks "today", "in this age of virtuality, almost quaint again."

literature

  • Alphand, Jean-Charles : Les Promenades de Paris. 2 volumes. Rothschild Éditeurs, Paris 1867–1873. Pp. 198–204 as well as panels under Les Promenades intérieures de Paris.
    • New edition: Princeton Architectural Press, Princeton 1984.
    • New edition: Connaissance et Mémoires, Paris 2003, ISBN 2-914473-04-4 . (small format facsimile)
  • André, Édouard François : L'Art des jardins. Traité général de la composition des parcs et jardins. Paris 1879 ( gallica.bnf.fr ).
  • Boué, Germaine: Les squares et jardins de Paris: Les Buttes-Chaumont. Notice historique et descriptive. Paris 1867 ( books.google.de ).
  • Ernouf, Alfred-Auguste: L'art des jardins: histoire, théorie, pratique, de la composition des jardins, parcs, squares. Paris 1868, pp. 206-224 ( gallica.bnf.fr ). (Detailed planting plan from 1867 with a description of all 108 flowerbeds, groups of trees and rock plantings. Map on page 216.)
  • Freytag, Anette: When the Railway Conquered the Garden: Velocity in Parisian and Viennese Parks. In: Conan, Michel (Ed.): Landscape Design and the Experience of Motion. Dumbarton Oaks, Trustees for Harvard University, Washington DC 2003, ISBN 978-0-88402-293-0 , pp. 215-242, doaks.org ( Memento of June 8, 2011 in the Internet Archive ).
  • Grumbach, Antoine: Les Promenades des Paris. In: Architecture d'aujourd'hui. 185, Paris 1976, pp. 97-106.
    • ders .: The Promenades of Paris. In: Oppositions. MIT Press, Cambridge (Massachusetts) Spring 1977, pp. 49-67.
  • Hamon, Françoise: Les Buttes-Chaumont. In: Texier, Simon (ed.): Les Parcs et Jardins dans l'Urbanisme Parisien. XIX e - XX e siècles. Paris 2001, ISBN 978-2-913246-32-4 , pp. 99-105.
  • Haussmann, Georges-Eugène : Mémoires du Baron Haussmann. Grands travaux de Paris. Paris 1890-1893, pp. 232-239 ( gallica.bnf.fr ).
  • Komara, Ann: Measure and map: Alphand's contours of construction at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris 1867. In: Huerta, S. et al. (Ed.): Proceedings of the First International Congress on Construction History. Madrid 2003.
  • Limido, Luisa: L'art des jardins sous le Second Empire: Jean-Pierre Barillet-Deschamps, 1824–1873. Seyssel 2002, ISBN 2-87673-349-8 , pp. 124-136.
  • Meyer, Elizabeth K .: The Public Parc as Avante-Garde (Landscape) Architecture: A Comparative Interpretation of Two Parisian Parks, Parc de la Villette (1983–1990) and Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (1864–1867). In: Landscape Journal. Vol.10, No.1. University of Minnesota 1991, pp. 16-26 ( lj.uwpress.org ).
  • Plazy, Gilles: Le Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. With photographs by Arnaud Legrain. Flammarion, Paris 2000, ISBN 978-2-08-012816-4 .
  • Robinson, William: The parks, promenades & gardens of Paris. London 1869, pp. 59-67 ( books.google.de ).
  • Schediwy, Robert and Baltzarek, Franz: Green in the big city . Vienna 1982, ISBN 3-85063-125-7 , p. 90.
  • Schenker, Heath Massey: Parks and Politics During the Second Empire in Paris. In: Landscape Journal. Vol. 14 No. 2, University of Minnesota 1995, pp. 201-219 ( lj.uwpress.org ).
  • Tate, Alan: Great City Parks. Taylor & Francis, London and New York 2001, ISBN 0-419-24420-4 , pp. 47-55 ( books.google.at ).
  • Wanderer, Ch .: Promenades horticoles dans les jardins publics de Paris. Le Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. In: La Revue Horticole. Paris 1882, pp. 402-405 ( archive.org ).

Fiction:

  • Aragon, Louis : The Parisian Peasant. Frankfurt am Main 1996, ISBN 978-3-518-22213-3 , Chapter 2: The feeling of nature on the Buttes-Chaumont, pp. 125-215.
  • Gautier, Théophile : Voyage hors Barrières. In: ders .: Caprices et Zigzags. Paris 1852, Chapter 1: Montfaucon, pp. 272-281 ( books.google.fr ).
  • Reynaud, Marius: Les Buttes-Chaumont ou Saint-Chaumont. Les temps anciens et les temps modern. Châtellerault 1870 ( gallica.bnf.fr ). (Story in verse)

Web links

Commons : Parc des Buttes-Chaumont  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

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Coordinates: 48 ° 52 '49 "  N , 2 ° 22' 58"  E

This article was added to the list of excellent articles on April 10, 2012 in this version .