Hofgarten (Düsseldorf)

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The pond at the land crown
Hofgarten, viewpoint
Napoleonsberg , viewing hill in the courtyard garden (2017)

The Hofgarten is the central park in Düsseldorf . It is located in the city center in the districts Stadtmitte and Pempelfort and has a total area of ​​27.73 hectares , of which 13 hectares are meadow areas. The park area stretches from Jacobistraße with Jägerhof Palace and the adjacent Malkasten site to Heinrich-Heine-Allee in the old town and from Königsallee to the courtyard on the banks of the Rhine. Numerous historical monuments and modern sculptures enliven the park, which marks the transition from the baroque garden style to the English landscape garden . The oldest part of the public courtyard garden was laid out in 1769. This makes the Düsseldorf Hofgarten Germany's first and oldest public garden .

History and design

The history of the Hofgarten goes back to the time of Wilhelm the Rich . The 16th century rote , that is outside the city walls lying royal courtyard was in the 18th century to the public promenade, the old courtyard garden, redesigned and received the early 19th century by Maximilian Friedrich Weyhe as the new Hofgarten its substantially preserved to this day Shape. In the 20th century, especially after the destruction of the Second World War , major changes were made to the garden area for the last time through urban development measures.

The princely court garden

Outside the fortress walls of Düsseldorf, in the east of the city, a rich garden landscape had developed in the course of the 16th century. The lands and courts of the dukes, who had ornamental and kitchen gardens laid out there, were in Pempelfort, which had already been granted to the city as an external guarantee when the city was raised in 1288. In the middle of these gardens was the princely court garden, which could be reached from the city through the Ratinger Tor. It was first attested in writing in 1557, when Düsseldorf had become the main residence and Duke Wilhelm the Rich had the garden area, which stretched north of the Düssel as far as Pempelfort, expanded in the course of expansion work . In 1585, on the occasion of the wedding of the Hereditary Prince Johann Wilhelm and Jakobe von Baden-Baden , some of the lavish celebrations took place in the princely garden. In the first half of the 17th century, Count Palatine Wolfgang Wilhelm had the court garden, which was laid out as a regular parterre garden, expanded again. But towards the end of the 17th century the farm showed less and less interest in the area, and in 1669, under Elector Philipp Wilhelm , it was partially leased to one of the court gardeners who grew vegetables and hops there. In 1716 the court was dissolved after Elector Johann Wilhelm (Jan Wellem) died, his widow Anna Maria Luisa decided to return to Florence, and it turned out that the new sovereign, Charles III. Philipp , did not want to reside in Düsseldorf. The castle was thus abandoned, the unused part of the courtyard garden fell fallow and overgrown more and more.

The old courtyard garden

Plan of the old court garden from 1775

After the Seven Years' War , in which large parts of the city were destroyed, and additional crop failures in the following years, Düsseldorf found itself in great economic hardship. Karl Theodor zu Pfalz-Sulzbach , Elector and Duke of Jülich-Berg since 1742 , issued numerous orders at the suggestion of his governor in Düsseldorf, Count Johann Ludwig Franz von Goltstein , to improve the situation in the city. State building measures, which also affected the Hofgarten area, were not only intended to eliminate the damage, but also to create jobs. In 1769 the elector ordered the expansion of the courtyard garden, which had been neglected for many years, and turned it into a public promenade for the delight of the residents . Count Johann Ludwig Franz von Goltstein had the eastern part of the Hofgarten laid out and the country roads starting from Düsseldorf built. It was for the glory Goltsteinstraße named. And since the intention was anyway to connect the Jägerhof Palace , which was completed in 1765 and the seat of the chief hunter , with the city through an avenue, both projects could be carried out together.

Jägerhofallee, often called Reitallee, with a view of Jägerhof Palace

The courtyard garden, through which the Düssel flowed, stretched from Jägerhof Palace to the Landskrone Bastion and ended there in a swampy pond. The Lorraine master builder Nicolas de Pigage , who had also built Benrath Palace and Park, was commissioned to design the promenade . In 1769 the renovation work began. The area was expanded, cleared and leveled by the purchase of surrounding garden plots, the Düssel canalized and relocated to the southern edge of the area. Hedges were planted and wide avenues lined with linden trees were laid out, the main axis being the Reitallee , which was aligned from Schloss Jägerhof to the Andreaskirche , the court church and burial place of the Wittelsbachers in Jülich-Berg. At the end of the Reitallee there is a pond called Runder Weiher , which is regulated and set in a basin and equipped in 1900 with a fountain and the sculpture "Jröne Jong" ( Joseph Hammerschmidt ). To the right and left of the large avenue, numerous small meandering paths led through bosquets with ornamental hedges that lined small squares. The avenues that both of Schloss Jägerhof towards the basin, and in the opposite direction of sight in the form of a three-beam formed, a so-called Patte d'oie (goose foot), the Pigage implemented here design elements of the French baroque garden with its strict geometric style . The winding paths of the Boskette are a late baroque element and already point to the irregular style of the English landscape garden. The public promenade was equipped with benches, statues and vases, which offered the visitors variety and opportunities to rest. In the court gardener's house , which was built according to Pigage's plans along with the garden and the residence of the court gardener responsible for tending the garden, refreshments were offered and social entertainment took place. A Chinese pavilion was built as a further attraction in 1782 , reflecting the enthusiasm for chinoise fashion at the time.

The public promenade, the old courtyard garden, was enthusiastically received by the Düsseldorf population and was also mentioned in numerous travelogues from the late 18th century. But the Düsseldorfers' delight in their promenade did not last long. During the First Coalition War , the city was occupied by French troops in 1795, who dug entrenchments in the Hofgarten and almost completely destroyed it in the process. The trees and hedges were cut down, the gardener's house and the Chinese pavilion were blown up. It was not until 1804 that this oldest part of the court garden was restored in the landscape style as part of the redesign by Maximilian Friedrich Weyhe and the court gardener's house was rebuilt. The avenues designed by Pigage and the large basin are still preserved and correspond to the basin with the water-spouting "Jröne Jong", this one erected in March 1900, behind the theater, today's Reitallee from there to Schloss Jägerhof and the Alley of Sighs along the Düssel.

The new courtyard garden

City map of Düsseldorf 1809: Extension of the court garden to include the terrain of the former city fortifications in the style of the English landscape garden under the direction of Maximilian Friedrich Weyhe
Horticultural design of the court garden with court gardener house, Ratinger Tor, city theater and art academy at the security harbor, 1895

After the Peace of Lunéville of 1801, in Article VI of which the Holy Roman Empire pledged to France not to restore the demolished city fortifications of Düsseldorf, Elector Maximilian Joseph of Palatinate-Bavaria set up a commission to demolish the fortress and beautify the city under the direction of Georg Arnold Jacobi and commissioned them to develop an urban planning concept that also included the redesign and expansion of the courtyard garden. The court architect Kaspar Anton Huschberger and the hydraulic engineer Christian Wilhelm G. Bauer were in charge of the technical measures . They envisaged horticultural facilities for the area adjacent to the courtyard garden at the former Landskrone bastion (later concretised in the planning for the Jardin Botaníque ) and the regulation of the waters. In 1804, at the instigation of the commission chairman Jacobi, the court gardener and horticultural master Maximilian Friedrich Weyhe joined the commission. Weyhe created a landscape garden in the English style and shaped the transformation of the former fortified city of Düsseldorf into an open garden city. The peninsulas, which divide the New Hofgarten created by Weyhe into two parts, are connected to one another by the Golden Bridge . A line of sight runs across the bridge from east to west between Schloss Jägerhof and today's Grabbeplatz , which connects the grounds of the New Court Garden with the areas of the Old Court Garden.

In 1811 Napoleon Bonaparte issued a "beautification decree" for the Bergische state capital , which was under his reign , which left the former ramparts up to the banks of the Rhine to create green spaces. In his honor, the picturesque hill, which was modeled in the north-western part of the courtyard garden from the excavation of the nearby security harbor, is still called Napoleonsberg today . In 1836 an excursion restaurant was opened on the Ananasberg next to the Landskrone pond , which was replaced by a representative restaurant in 1902 and destroyed in the Second World War. In addition, an Art Nouveau pavilion called Majolikahäuschen was also built in the western courtyard garden in 1902 as part of the industrial and commercial exhibition , but it was demolished in 1926.

In 1815 the first gymnastics field in the Rhineland was opened at the place where the large playground is located on Kaiserstraße today. On a large boulder there is the following inscription: "This is where the first gymnastics facility in the Rhineland was built on May 15, 1815 at the suggestion of Friedrich Ludwig Jahn. " The city's oldest gymnastics club , dating from 1847, emerged from this movement .

In 1910, four large, baroque decorative vases made of French sandstone were set up in the axis between Goltsteinstrasse and Düssel. They are copies of vases from the palace gardens of Versailles . They were made by the sculptor Joseph Hammerschmidt and donated by the landscape painter Georg Oeder .

In 1845 parts of the courtyard garden were to be sacrificed to a train station, later the National Socialists wanted to build a large parade road there. These plans could be thwarted, but some small parts of the park were lost to the neighboring road. For the exhibition GeSoLei (health care, social welfare and physical exercise), the courtyard of honor was built like a bolt towards the Rhine in 1926 .

Schwanenhaus (2018)

In 1937 the so-called swan house was built on the pond opposite the land crown of the Golden Bridge . With the basement facing the water, it served to supply the swans in winter. Since 1994, the premises have been used by a group of committed animal rights activists who take care of sick or wounded swans, geese and ducks . The “birdhouse” made of brick and wood, which is now a listed building, was extensively restored in 2017.

In 1958, the city planner Friedrich Tamms wanted to partially fill in the pond at the Land crown for the construction of Jan-Wellem-Platz and the millipede . Because of the great protests of the Düsseldorf population, this plan was abandoned. From this time, however, there are still several pedestrian passages. They lead under the streets that cross the courtyard garden and connect the individual parts with one another. Nevertheless, the Hofgarten was more severely cut through by the six-lane Fischerstraße - as an extension of the newly created Berliner Allee and access to the Millipede - and the Maximilian-Weyhe-Allee than was the case before the Second World War by the old Hofgartenstraße. In 1998 the Hofgarten was finally added to the list of protected monuments in Düsseldorf.

On the evening of June 9, 2014, the Hofgarten was badly hit by a thunderstorm with hurricane gusts that triggered the low Ela . According to the city administration's first impression, about half of the trees have been destroyed or so badly damaged that they can no longer be saved.

Historic gas lighting system

The Hofgarten has the technical monument of a gas lighting system with 219 lanterns. In the years 1951 to 1953, extensive lighting was installed there, which was based on the older gas lighting system that already existed in the courtyard garden around 1908. An urban park that is mainly gas-lit should be unique in this form worldwide. Only part of the courtyard garden, under which the subway runs, is now illuminated with white LED light, as the laying of gas pipes was not considered possible here. The gas lanterns play a special role in Düsseldorf. The installation of around 2400 lanterns led to the foundation of the Düsseldorf municipal utilities in 1843 . Individual luminaire types are based on Mannesmann patents and were manufactured there using the once unique seamless casting process.

In the 1950s, the type of luminaire "Model Frankfurt", which is still present in the park today and is probably no longer found in Europe, was used. The Golden Bridge in the Hofgarten and Charles Bridge in Prague are the only bridges in the world that are lit with gas lanterns.

Goldene Brücke, bridge railing from 1951 (after restoration in June 2016)

The city of Prague has started to rebuild gas lanterns in the city area. The city ​​administration of Düsseldorf (Office for Traffic Management) had been planning for a long time to remove all gas lamps that were not subject to maintenance statutes. Due to massive protests, a council resolution stipulated, among other things, that the gas lighting in the courtyard garden, which had been destroyed by hurricane Ela , should be rebuilt, only around 90 of 219 lanterns remained undamaged. The restoration was carried out in parts in summer 2018. The gas lanterns in the Hofgarten are now ignited electrically via a photocell and no longer via a so-called "pressure wave", which is otherwise used for ignition in the city of Düsseldorf. In the summer of 2019, the restored historical lanterns were reinstalled on the Golden Bridge.

The planned further demolition of around 10,500 of the 14,500 Düsseldorf gas lamps that are still in existence has been heavily criticized by the public. As of 08/2018

EUROGA 2002plus

Light bench installation "UVA-UVB" by Stefan Sous, on Reitallee

In 2002 the courtyard garden was extensively renovated and redesigned as part of the “Decentralized State Garden Show ” and EUROGA 2002plus. The park was reopened to the city by clearing several edge plantings and renewing the entrance areas. The Hofgarten / Opera / Heinrich-Heine-Allee area has been redesigned. The former line of sight from Heinrich-Heine-Allee to Jägerhofstraße was restored and the monument to the playwright Christian Dietrich Grabbe was implemented. There were also several smaller individual measures such as the renovation of the paths and the furnishing.

During EUROGA, the Hofgarten became a public exhibition space. There were several different installations throughout the park. Some have been preserved to this day, for example the light banks "UVA-UVB" by the Düsseldorf artist Stefan Sous along the Reitallee, which shine at night .

In 2004 the Hofgarten was included in the street of garden art between the Rhine and Maas because of its current and cultural-historical importance .

Wehrhahn Line and Kö-Bogen

With the construction of the so-called Wehrhahn Line and the Kö-Bogen project , Königsallee and Hofgartenstraße will once again be connected at ground level to the Landskrone area .

After the demolition of the millipede designed by Friedrich Tamms , whose northern ramp divides the Hofgarten, the plans for the Kö-Bogen project envisage the construction of a tunnel as a replacement in the same place. The northern mouth of the tunnel and the unchanged route of the tram prevent the two parts of the courtyard garden from growing together. Due to the elimination of two passages, both parts of the garden will no longer be free of traffic after the project has been completed. In addition, the pond on its south-eastern bank was reduced in size as part of the construction work on Jan-Wellem-Platz in favor of an interim street and the trees, which, according to the plans of Maximilian Friedrich Weyhe, were to separate the court garden from the city, only interrupted by isolated entrances , like. Contrary to this historical design by Weyhe, the courtyard garden is open to the building designed by the architect Daniel Libeskind on Jan-Wellem-Platz, which has been criticized by citizens' associations.

Leisure and recreational value

The Hofgarten is known as the “green lung” of the city of Düsseldorf. Although the Hofgarten is surrounded and traversed by very noisy streets, the subjective noise perception is considerably reduced thanks to the visually shielding trees and shrubs and thanks to the size of the park. There are one large and two small children's playgrounds, two dog exercise areas and two ponds with lots of ducks and swans on its premises. Because of its central location, it is often used as a resting place by employees of the surrounding companies and visitors to the city center. The Hofgarten is also popular with walkers on Sundays. In summer its lawns are ideal for sunbathing. The rich tree population and open meadow areas are of great importance for the inner-city climate .

In the evening and at night, cruising sometimes takes place in a section on Inselstraße .

Monuments and works of art

The Hofgarten is also of outstanding importance as a space for monuments and art objects, numerous objects by well-known artists contribute to the design of various park areas:

  • Harmony by Aristide Maillol , donated in 1953 by the Kunstverein in honor of Heinrich Heine, on the Napoleonsberg
  • Heinrich Heine memorial , design of the entire complex and the bronze Heine relief by Ivo Beucker , on the Napoleonsberg
  • Landscape situation ctrl c / ctrl v (path, lantern, garden bench ) by Anja Vormann and Gunnar Friel, on the meadow south of the Napoleonberg
  • Gründgens monument by Peter Rübsam in the Goltsteinparterre , behind the theater
  • The warning voice of Vadim Sidur was on the 1985 Ananasberg erected.
  • Märchenbrunnen Max Blondat was in 1905 at the foot of pineapple Bergs placed.
  • Two Piece Reclining Figure by Henry Moore , on a lawn behind the opera house
  • Robert Schumann monument by Karl Hartung , at the opera house
  • The Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy monument (a reconstruction) was rebuilt in 2012 on the south side of the Hofgarten next to the opera house on Heinrich-Heine-Allee .
  • Grabbe monument , the design for the Grabbe bust comes from Walter Scheufen (1881–1917) and is in the city museum. The artist, who fell in 1917, could no longer carry out his work himself. The bust donated by the local history association “Alde Düsseldorfer” on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of Christian Dietrich Grabbe's death was made by Kurträder, the stone carving of the multi-pillar plinth made of Swedish granite by Bernd Bodechtel (* 1939). The bust was placed near the opera house, from where there is a good line of sight to the grave site.
  • Louise Dumont Memorial by Ernesto de Fiori , at the Hofgärtnerhaus
  • Grazing foal by Renée Sintenis , on Seufzerallee along the Düssel
  • Immermann monument by Clemens Buscher , was located from 1901 to 1936, like the Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy monument , in a front niche in the entrance facade of the Düsseldorf City Theater . The Immermann memorial was erected in 1940 on the Goltsteinparterre .
  • The marble bench with cats by the sculptor Rudolf Bosselt was made in 1904 for the "Architectural Garden" by Peter Behrens at the Kunstpalast . The bench, one of two benches, was a foundation by Georg Oeder and was set up on the Goltsteinparterre behind the theater after the Great Horticultural Exhibition .
  • Copies of vases in the palace gardens of Versailles by Joseph Hammerschmidt between Düssel and Goltsteinstraße
  • Roaring deer by Josef Pallenberg was erected in 1909 behind the Hofgärtnerhaus, today's theater museum. Dismantled as part of the “metal donation of the German people”, survived the Second World War and was re-erected at the end of 1945. In 1956 the Roaring Deer was moved to its current location in the Hofgarten west of Kaiserstraße.
  • Memorial of the 1st Westphalian Field Artillery Regiment No. 7 by Rudolf Zieseniss , in the beech grove , not far from Maximilian-Weihe-Allee and Kaiserstraße;
    in front of it is a bronze plate with a laurel wreath for the soldiers of the "Artillery Regiment 26" by
    Rudolf Christian Baisch who fell in World War II
  • Jröne Jong or uninvited guest of Joseph Hammerschmidt in the round pond was a foundation by Georg Oeder . The group of figures erected in 1900 was the first fountain in the city of Düsseldorf and is considered a showpiece of the courtyard gardens.
  • War memorial 1870/71 by Karl Hilgers on the land crown
  • Peter von Cornelius monument by Adolf von Donndorf , at the Steigenberger Parkhotel
  • Bust of St. Stephen by Julius Bayerle, wasplacedon Reitallee in 1958; originally stood at the opera house
  • Maximilian Weyhe monument by Carl Hoffmann , not far from Reitallee
  • Las Meninas group of bronze sculptures by Manolo Waldes have stood not far from Jacobistraße, at Jägerhof Palace, since 2007.
  • Pillars of light from reinflügel Baukunst , Detlef Tanz, at the east end of Reitallee
  • Light banks UVA-UVB by Stefan Sous, on Reitallee
  • Greenhouse Vivarium by Mark Dion stood for the garden show "Euroga 2002+" in Buchenwäldchen near the Maximilian-ordination Avenue. During storm Ela 2014, a mighty beech tree fell on the glass house and badly damaged it. The city ​​dismantled the vivarium in October 2015 .
  • The greenhouse Asphalt-Grün by Marcus Jansen was set up in the Weyhe-Passage for the “light green” campaign for “Euroga 2002+” and has disappeared since 2009.

literature

  • OR Redlich : The court garden in Düsseldorf and the palace gardens in Benrath : by OR Redlich, Ms. Hillebrecht and Wesener. Published by the Düsseldorf History Association on August 14, 1893 . Düsseldorf, 1893 ( digitized edition of the University and State Library Düsseldorf )
  • Irene Markowitz , Anja Zimmermann, Felix Grützner: Düsseldorfer Gartenlust: Exhibition of the City Museum, May 2 - October 11, 1987 (exhibition catalog), Düsseldorf: City Museum, 1987
  • Claus Lange: The Hofgarten in Düsseldorf: Germany's first public city garden , (Rheinische Kunststätten; 495), Rheinischer Verein f. Monument preservation u. Landscape protection, Cologne 2006, ISBN 3-86526-003-9
  • Melanie Florin: The majolica house by Villeroy & Boch in the Düsseldorf Hofgarten , Düsseldorf: Grupello Verlag, 2006, ISBN 3-89978-057-4
  • Ulla Lux, Cosima Rainer, Pia Witzmann (texts and editors ): Light green: 30 art projects in and around the Düsseldorf Hofgarten . Catalog for the exhibition May 11 - October 6, 2002, Düsseldorf: Büro hell-gruen, Kulturamt, 2002, ISBN 3-00-009476-8
  • Otto Reinhard Redlich, Friedrich Hillebrecht : The court garden in Düsseldorf and the castle park in Benrath , Düsseldorf: Lintz, 1892
  • Rolf Purpar: Art City Düsseldorf - Objects and Monuments in the Cityscape, Grupello, Düsseldorf 2009, ISBN 3-89978-044-2

Web links

Commons : Hofgarten Düsseldorf  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Düsseldorf through the ages, Schwann Verlag 1910, p. 83
  2. ^ Achim Röthig: Kö-Bogen, 2nd BA. Garden monument preservation specialist article on the design of the surroundings in the connection area of ​​the courtyard garden as part of the preparation of the development plan No. 5477/125 , April 2011, p. 29 ( PDF )
  3. In March 1900 the group of figures "The Uninvited Guest" was set up. , in Report on the State and Administration of Community Affairs in the City for the Period April 1, 1899 to March 31, 1900. Special Part III. Caring for economic life.
  4. Panorama de Dusseldorf (around 1809) , document from the City Archives State Capital Düsseldorf in the portal duesseldorf.de , accessed on December 25, 2012
  5. Rolf Purpar: art city Dusseldorf. Objects and monuments in the cityscape . Grupello Verlag, 2nd edition, Düsseldorf 2009, ISBN 978-3-89978-044-4 , p. 79
  6. ↑ The most expensive bird feeder in town is ready , in Rheinische Post, from 23 August 2017
  7. The storm destroyed around 17,000 street trees in Düsseldorf . Article from June 11, 2014 in the portal derwesten.de , accessed on June 12, 2014
  8. "The Hofgarten as we knew it is gone" . Article from June 12, 2014 in the portal rp-online.de , accessed on June 12, 2014
  9. Hans Onkelbach: "The Hofgarten will be beautiful again, but different" . Article from June 13, 2014 in the portal rp-online.de , accessed on June 13, 2014
  10. : Uwe-Jens Ruhnau: Jonges take to the streets for gas lamps . In: Rheinische Post , November 21, 2015. Last accessed September 1, 2018.
  11. Stefan Sous: "UVA-UVB" 2002, 'Hell-Grün', Hofgarten, Düsseldorf, owned by the city of Düsseldorf
  12. ^ Rheinischer Verein für Denkmalpflege und Landschaftsschutz eV ( Memento of the original from March 1, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , last accessed June 25, 2011 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.pixelitohosting.com
  13. ^ Action group Düsseldorfer Heimat- und Bürgerervereine AGD , last accessed on June 25, 2011
  14. ^ Harmonie , overall title: Heinrich-Heine-Denkmal , on d: kult, Düsseldorf, accessed on March 9, 2018
  15. Note: Because the marble fountain was often damaged, there is only one duplicate in the park today.
  16. https://www.deutsche-digitale-bibliothek.de/item/7GLBB7UFOT2BSRD57ECG2KLOAKFQ6EUJ
  17. ^ Hans Maes, Alfons Houben et al.: Düsseldorf in stone and bronze (2nd edition). Triltsch Verlag, Düsseldorf 1984, pp. 54-55, ISBN 3-7998-0018-2
  18. Benches: Professor Oeder has given the city two marble benches, "Cat and Dog", made for the exhibition by the sculptor Bosselt. They were set up in the Goltsteinstrasse jewelry plant. , in Report on the State and Administration of Community Affairs in the City for the Period April 1, 1904 to March 31, 1905. Special Section. III. Caring for economic life
  19. Photo “Düsseldorf, Vivarium, Life is strange, 2002–2014, November 12, 2014” , on blog.photographiedepot.de, accessed on March 30, 2018

Coordinates: 51 ° 13 ′ 46 ″  N , 6 ° 46 ′ 48 ″  E