Gefilte fish

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"Gefilte Fisch": Stuffed fish in the cut

Gefilte fish , and gefilte fish (written in Yiddish געפילטע פיש, German "stuffed fish", literally "stuffed fish"), is a cold fish dish that is particularly popular with Ashkenazi Jews and is eaten as a starter on the Sabbath , on public holidays and on special occasions . It essentially consists of seasoned fish farce of minced or gewolftem carp , pike or whitefish , depending on the variant as dumplings stuffed, sliced or in the fish skin as a whole fish in broth poached and cooled, gelled Sud is served.

The preparation of the food has a long tradition among Ashkenazi Jews, which according to some authors goes back to the Middle Ages. The dish, which originated in either Germany or Eastern Europe , has spread far beyond the borders of Eastern and Central Europe as a result of the emigration movements at the end of the 19th century and in the 20th century and has been considered a Jewish food in many places in North America and Europe since the late 20th century .

variants

Whole stuffed fish

For the preparation, which is likely to have given the dish its name, a suitable kosher fish, traditionally carp, often also pike or white fish, is gutted, freed of scales, cleaned and skinned. The fish meat is boned , minced or minced and mixed with onions , soaked bread or matzo flour , eggs , salt , pepper or sugar . The fish skin is filled with this farce . Then the stuffed fish is poached in fish broth . The finished fish is poured or napped with fish stock , garnished with carrot slices and cooled. A grated horseradish (Yiddish כריין, chrein ), "krin", mixed with beetroot is usually served as a side dish.

  • Skinning the fish

  • Skinned fish, head, skin tube

  • Filling in the fish farce

  • Poach in vegetable stock

  • Ready to serve chilled

Simpler variant

"Gefilte Fisch": a slice of the whole stuffed fish with chrein (krin)

In addition to this elaborate preparation, there are simpler variants. In one of them, the scaled and cleaned fish is cut across into slices about two centimeters thick and the meat is carefully removed from the skin with a sharp knife, leaving only the backbone and a narrow connecting strip to the fish's back, which give the pieces a hold. The boned fish meat is minced or minced and processed into a farce with the same ingredients as for the whole stuffed fish, which is filled into the pieces of fish between the skin and the bones. The filled fish slices are then boiled in the stock, poured over with the stock and decorated with a slice of carrots and served cold together with the cooked fish head and tail, which are not filled.

Fish balls and slices

The simplest and best known variant today are dumplings formed from the fish farce, which are poached and poured with the gelling brew. The fish farce can also be shaped into a loaf , poached and served cut into thick slices. Fish balls are available in jars, whole loaves of fish farce are available frozen as ready-made products.

In Poland , poor Jews also used small fish, called Yiddish kelbikes (German gudgeon ), together with the bones to make fish farce ; In Belarus there was a variant in which the fish balls were wrapped in fish skin to do justice to the meaning of filtered .

Wrong fish

"False fish" is a substitute dish for "gefilte fish", in which fish is replaced by minced meat, usually chicken. It is eaten in place of "gefilte fish" by some Hasidic Jews who do not eat fish during the Passover festival .

Origin, geographical distribution and names

Ethnic Map of the Russian Empire (1875)

The origin of the dish is unknown. In his Encyclopedia of Jewish Food , published in 2010, Gil Marks takes the view that the dish originated in Germany, first spread westward to France and at the latest in the 17th century to Eastern Europe, where carp farming, mostly carried out by Jews, had been introduced shortly before. A German manuscript from the middle of the 14th century contains a recipe for stuffed pike, a Christian lent that, according to Marks, was originally fried, not poached and found its way into Jewish cuisine and later simplified into fish dumplings. Marks bases his assumption in particular on the fact that Franco-German rabbis discussed from the 14th century whether or not adding vinegar to minced fish was allowed on Shabbat. Claudia Roden mentions that in Germany in the early Middle Ages there were reports of Jewish housewives who chopped and filled pike. Other authors suspect the origin of "Gefilte Fisch" rather in the Ashkenazi tradition in Eastern Europe, not least because the dish west of the Elbe , which separates Western Jews from Eastern Jews , was unknown in recent times and only changed with the great waves of emigration Eastern Jewish population in the late 19th and early 20th centuries gradually expanded west. The complete practical cookbook for the Jewish kitchen, published several times from 1888 . Bertha Gumprich , who comes from near Trier , does not contain a recipe for “Gefilte Fisch”, nor does the English kosher cookbook The Jewish Manual , which was published anonymously in London in 1846 and attributed to Lady Judith Montefiore , and which takes into account both Ashkenazi and Sephardic cuisine.

Whole “filtered fish” versus fish balls

Marie Kauders' first Israelite cookbook for Bohemian cuisine , first published in Prague in 1886 , lists two recipes under the name “Fachirter Fisch”, one for a fish farce and one for the whole stuffed fish to be served cold. In the 1903 edition, which contains a large number of recipes, the actual “gefilte fish” recipe is apparently not included. The Jewish cookbook by Esther Levy, a West Ashkenazi Jewish woman who probably came from England, was published in the USA in 1881 and contains a recipe for fish balls called “Stewed fish balls”, which, however, are not served cold. In the mostly non-kosher American Jewish cookbooks that appeared after the start of the great emigration of Eastern European Jews, however, “Gefilte Fish” are represented, often with several recipes, even if not yet under the Yiddish name. In the most popular one, “Aunt Babette's” from 1889, the recipe for whole fish filled with fish farce, called “Boneless fish, filled”, is right at the beginning of the fish recipes. The Settlement Cook Book of 1901 contains both a recipe for the whole stuffed fish called "filled fish" and one for fish balls, the International Jewish Cook Book of 1918 considers all variants and provides the whole fish, now Yiddish as "Gefillte fish" marked, fishballs under the name "Russian fish cakes" opposite.

According to the Yiddish Language and Culture Atlas , the whole fish stuffed with fish farce is typical for the western area, while in the eastern areas the dish usually consisted of the filling alone. Salcia Landmann , on the other hand, is of the opinion that the whole “Gefilte Fish” was particularly popular in Romania and was prepared there with hard eggs in the farce. Also , Russian Jewish cookbooks that appeared after the collapse of the Soviet Union contain “Gefilte Fisch” recipes for all the stuffed fish that Jews in the Soviet Union eaten on secular holidays or birthdays, especially in Germany and thanks to the Jewish emigrants experienced a renaissance in the USA at the end of the 20th century.

Sweet versus peppered "filtered fish"

"Gefilte Fisch": fish balls

The former border between the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, united to Poland-Lithuania in the 16th century, and the Kingdom of Poland , which separates the northeast Yiddish of the Jews of Lithuania from the southeast Yiddish , is also reflected in the preparation of "Gefilte Fish": In Galicia , in southwestern Poland as well as in German-speaking and Romanian regions, “Gefilte Fisch” was sweetened with sugar, while the Jews of Lithuania and other areas under Russian influence prepared it salty and with pepper - a difference that has been preserved among the descendants scattered around the world in American ironically as " gefilte fish line " is called. It goes without saying that on both sides of the border the other variant was considered barbaric.

Stuffed versus Jewish fish

In Poland, non-Jews used to call “Gefilte Fish” “Jewish fish”. The dish, which today in Poland is called " Karp po żydowsku (carp according to the Jewish style) ", in German also known as "Polish carp" and is often mistaken for "gefilte fish", is another fish dish taken from Jewish cuisine, fish in Jelly , which is popular as a Christmas meal in Poland. For the French doctor and cookbook author with Polish roots, Édouard de Pomiane , who traveled to Poland at the beginning of the 20th century and described the cuisine and eating habits of the Jews, this fish dish was the epitome of Polish Jewish cuisine. And the like, presumably from the Alsace native fish dish of classic French cuisine "Carpe à la Juive" ( "carp Jewish style", in the Alsace "Jeddefesch") also liked farcie with "gefilte fish", the French also "Carpe (Stuffed carp) "is confused, has nothing in common with" gefilte fish ". Russian cookbooks often contain recipes for "Farschirowannaja ryba" ( Фаршированная рыба , stuffed fish), without any indication that it is a Jewish dish.

Surname

It is not known since when the term “Gefilte Fish” was used in Yiddish for both whole stuffed fish and fish dumplings. Marks assumes that the name referred to the whole stuffed fish in Germany in the Middle Ages and was later transferred to the fish balls in Eastern Europe. In Germany, on the other hand, these had different names from ancient times, which, according to Marks, is still reflected in the different names for the two variants in the 19th century cookbooks written by West Ashkenazi authors. However, since the early 20th century, all Ashkenazi Jews have used the same terms for the different variants. This means that “Gefilte Fisch” is an exception among the Jewish dishes that are otherwise not only prepared differently from region to region, but usually also have different names.

In the course of the 20th century, the Yiddish term “Gefilte Fisch” (English “gefilte fish”), initially not yet in uniform orthography , became more and more popular, initially mainly in English. The borrowing of the Yiddish "gefilte fish / gefilte fish" in other languages is usually a Numeruswechel connected from Yiddish plural to the singular, which is linguistically nothing extraordinary. In the German-speaking area, too, the German form “Gefüllter Fisch” is being replaced by Yiddish. For example, in Salcia Landmann's cookbook Die Koschere Küche in the 1976 edition, the German term “Gefüllter Fisch” is used, whereas in the 1995 edition of Die Jewish Küche , only the Yiddish “Gefilte Fisch” is used. Recently, the term in German has also been used in English as “Gefilte Fish” or “gefilte fish”, for example by the folk music group Gefilte Fish from Munich .

Fish in the Jewish tradition

Fishing. Tomb of the vizier Mereruka , Egypt , 6th Dynasty

The Torah reports how the Israelites, after leaving Egypt, longed for the fish of Egypt in their wandering through the desert . Recent archaeological excavations in and around Jerusalem show that fish consumption was astonishingly high in antiquity . Both saltwater and freshwater fish are proven , even Nile fish imported from Egypt . In the Jewish tradition, as in many others, fish - such as in the Jacobean Blessing - are a symbol of fertility and happiness. The Leviathan , a sea monster is, the Talmud , one day be as big fish, the food of the righteous.

Fish as a Shabbat food

Fish also has a long tradition as a Shabbat dish, which was known even outside the Jewish world; For example, the Roman satirist of the 1st century Persius counts the fish as one of the typical characteristics of the Shabbat. In the biblical creation story , the fish created on the fifth day as the first living beings are blessed by God like humans and like the Sabbath. In addition, the numerical value of the Hebrew word for fish (דָּג, dag ) is seven (ד, daleth , 4 + ג, gimel , 3), a number that is special not only in Judaism, which also symbolizes the Shabbat. In the Talmud, enjoying fish, even in the smallest quantities, is one of the special joys that accompany Shabbat.

The Torah and Talmudic scholars of modern times also agree that fish belongs on the Shabbatt table , even if they do not agree with what meals it should be eaten. On Shabbat, which, like all days in the Jewish calendar, begins the evening before and lasts until nightfall, instead of the two traditionally usual for working days, three meals are traditionally taken in the Talmud: the first on Friday evening (Hebrew סְעוּדָה לֵיל שַׁבָּת, se'udah leil shabbat ), the second on Saturday afternoon (Hebrew סְעוּדָה שֵׁנִית, se'udah shenit ) and the third (Hebrew סְעוּדָה שְׁלִישִׁית, se'udah schlischit ) on late Saturday afternoon shortly before the end of Shabbat. For example, while in the 16th century the rabbi and Kabbalist Isaiah Horowitz (circa 1565–1630), who was born in Prague and died in Tiberias , considered fish and meat to be essential for all three Shabbat meals, the half-century older man from Poland-Lithuania preferred Talmudic scholar Salomon Luria (circa 1510–1573) suggested eating fish only on Saturday lunchtimes in order to emphasize the importance of the midday meal. In the 18th century, Hasidism developed the custom of eating fish, especially at the third Shabbat meal, which in Hasidism had acquired its own spiritual meaning. Israel Meir Kagan (1839–1933), in his classic commentary on Shulchan Aruch Mischnah Berurah , written around the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, recommends fish, provided you like it, again with all Shabbat meals. De Pomiane reported in his 1929 book on the eating habits of Polish Jews that fish could be found on every table on Shabbat at least at noon.

The most popular fish dish served cold on Shabbat among Ashkenazi Jews was fish in jelly , which was often sweet in the East and sweet and sour in the West. It was only with the advent of finished products in the second half of the 20th century that “Gefilte Fish” took its place as the most eaten Shabbat fish.

"Gefilte fish" as a Shabbat food

Mischnah , treatise Shabbat , Vilnius edition

There are various explanations for the origin of “gefilte fish” as a Shabbat appetizer. On Shabbat, strictly religious Jews do not do any activity defined as work (Hebrew מְלָאכָה, melachah ). The Talmud distinguishes 39 (40-1) main works derived from the Torah, which are applied analogously to all areas of life. This includes not only cooking or baking, but especially agricultural work such as threshing (Hebrew דַּשׁ, dasch ), winnowing (Hebrew זָרָה, sarah ) and peeling or sorting (Hebrew בּוֹרֵר, borer ), the separation processes with which the for parts of the grain suitable for human consumption are separated from the unsuitable parts , the staple food at the time. Already in the Gemara this is generally applied to the separation of the edible and the inedible in eating and in the Middle Ages and in the modern times in the rabbinic literature, sometimes controversially, carried out. According to popular opinion, the dish “Gefilte Fish” owes its place as a Shabbat dish to this halachic discussion about separating good and bad on Shabbat.

“There is a prohibition on sorting or separating ('borer') on the Sabbath. And we don't sort clothes and we certainly don't separate the wheat from the chaff. We do eat fish, however, and when we eat fish we have to separate the bones from the meat if we do not want to suffocate. In this way, however, we separate the chaff (bone) from the wheat (fish meat). This means that all Jews who ate fish on the Sabbath (and Jews have eaten fish on the Sabbath for at least 2,000 years) profaned the Sabbath. That seems absurd, but in fact the fact is that it is very difficult to give a solid justification for removing the bones from eating fish. According to widespread opinion, 'Gefilte Fisch' is said to have found its way into the Sabbath menu in order to avoid the Borer problem. Whether or not this popular explanation is correct, Gefilte Fish is an Eastern European dish and Jews ate fish on the Sabbath for about fifteen centuries before this culinary invention. "

Another explanation, which also takes into account the fact that there are also recipes for similar fish dishes in non-Jewish cultures, traces the origin and spread of “Gefilte Fish” as a Shabbat dish of the Ashkenazi Jews back to the poverty of the Jews. The fact that the Jewish housewives used more affordable ingredients to cut the fish, which was expensive in many parts of Central and Eastern Europe, enabled them to serve fish on Shabbat that was enough for the whole family. Salcia Landmann, who does not mention the Borer ban, mentions an additional advantage for "Farcierung the fish [that] even small children can eat without choking on a bone".

It is noticeable that the Shabbat cuisine in many countries has filled dishes, which, according to the religious explanation, are supposed to remind of the biblical manna .

The Sephardic-Jewish cuisine of the Mediterranean region also knows similar fish dishes, some of which are eaten on specific occasions.

"Gefilte Fisch" today

"Gefilte Fisch": in a glass,
Miami Beach , Florida 1985

“Gefilte fish” are now primarily consumed by religious or tradition-conscious Jews with Central or Eastern European roots as a starter on Shabbat, on holidays and on special occasions. Usually the dish is not prepared by yourself, but bought as a finished product in a glass or frozen. It is on the market in numerous variants, a single American manufacturer offers around thirty different types of fishballs and sells over 1.5 million jars of them every year. “Gefilte fish”, most often in the form of fish balls, is on the menu of practically every Jewish restaurant worldwide and is often offered in Ashkenazi Jewish communities for kiddush , the reception after the service. With Sephardic and Oriental Jews, however, “Gefilte Fish” is not very popular , even in Israel . In a debate in the Israeli parliament in the 1980s about carp farming, in which "gefilte fish" was mentioned several times, a member of parliament from Libya allegedly said to the indignation of the Ashkenazi parliamentarians that he was sick of "gefilte fish".

"Gefilte Fisch" in the USA

Catering with fish balls "Gefilte Fisch" during the Passover 1952 in Denver

In the US, where many imported from Central and Eastern European Jewish immigrants originally Jewish dishes such as Bagel (Beigel), Chopped Liver ( chopped liver ) or Matzo Ball Soup ( matzah ball soup have) input in the diet everyday found "gefilte fish" is considered typical Jewish Food. In the Yiddish American-Polish film Yidl mitn Fidl with Molly Picon in the lead role, shot in Poland in 1936 , “Gefilte Fish” are only highlighted as a special delicacy of a wedding dinner. "Gefilte Fisch" is used as a feature of Jewish identity in American television series from the 1950s, first in The Goldbergs , the first American Jewish sitcom , then more ironically in the 1970s in the series Sanford and Son , when the main character, Fred G. Sanford, as a conceited Jew, proudly declares that G. stands for “gefilte fish” in his name, and in the 1990s, for example, in the sitcom The Nanny . The fact that the now rare disease diphyllobothriasis , an infection with the fish tapeworm caused by the consumption of raw fish, is also known as "Jewish housewife's disease", not because the disease among Jewish women, testifies to the fame of the court is particularly widespread, but alludes to the fact that Jewish women taste the raw fish farce when preparing "Gefilte Fisch".

“Gefilte Fisch” owes its outstanding position among the Jewish dishes in the USA not least to modern preservation technology and innovative marketing . While other traditional kosher Jewish dishes had to be laboriously prepared in one's own kitchen, “Gefilte Fish” in the form of fish balls could be produced as a finished product and marketed with a flair of authenticity , brought directly from the glass to the table and called “American Jewish National dish ”and an often ironic symbol of Jewish identity.

"Gefilte Fisch" in Germany

"Gefilte Fisch": Finished product in slices with chrein, garnished with carrots

Also in Europe, increasingly as a finished product on the market, “Gefilte Fisch” is seen not only as a typical Jewish dish, but also as a Jewish identification feature and was mentioned in discussions about Jewish culture in Germany.
The journalist Richard Chaim Schneider judged in 1990 that Jewish culture in Germany consists of “a diffuse mixture of gefilte fish, a few bits of Yiddish [and] an idiotic pride in Jewish Nobel Prize winners and artists”, the publisher Peter Moses-Krause called it “ an inedible mixture of gefilte fish and sachertorte ”.

An international group of musicians from Munich who care for Jewish, especially Yiddish folk music, performs under the name Gefilte Fish .

“Gefilte fish” in politics

In the United States, “gefilte fish” have played a role in ideology and politics since the 1950s . During and as a result of the trial of Ethel and Julius Rosenberg , American communists and Jews with Eastern European roots who were convicted and executed for espionage for the Soviet Union in 1953 , “Gefilte Fisch” was used in a broad campaign as a symbol of the loyalty of the majority of the propagated American Jews. In the Rosenberg process, a pack of “ Jell-O ”, a then modern, typically American, gelatine- based and therefore non-kosher (Hebrew טְרֵפָה, trefah , Yiddish treif ) product for making desserts, played a prominent role. According to the Jewish historian Nathan Abrams, the traditional "gefilte fish" was supposed to take the form of a kosher American-Jewish ready-made meal at a time when the majority of Jews in the USA, like the Rosenbergs, had already turned away from kosher cuisine In contrast to the mature American "Jell-O", which the Rosenbergs preferred, symbolize the loyal attitude of the Jews who do not sympathize with communism and their "kosher" values ​​such as Americanism , family and tradition , which are in accordance with the McCarthy era . A year after the Rosenbergs were executed in October 1954, a banquet in New York marked the three hundredth anniversary of the arrival of the first Jews in North America, regardless of the fact that they were of Sephardic origin, the guest of honor, President Dwight D. Eisenhower , "Gefilte Fisch" as a symbol of the " symbiotic relationship between America and its Jewish citizens" under the designation "traditional stuffed freshwater fish" served as a starter. In 1957 President Eisenhower is said to have served minestrone and Greek salad as well as “gefilte fish” at a “minority dinner” that he offered after his second inauguration .

“Gefilte Fish”: Starter at the First Seder in the White House, April 9, 2009

The “Gefilte Fish” dish made a prominent entry into the White House in the spring of 2009 as part of the menu at the first ever seder evening on the second evening of the Passover festival organized by an American president . The tradition newly created by President Barack Obama was continued in the following year, now on the first evening of the festival and again with “Gefilte Fisch” as the start of the dinner . After that, "Gefilte Fisch" no longer played a special role in reporting on the Seder evening in the White House.

In February 2010, shortly before the Passover feast, the so-called "gefilte fish crisis" occurred between Israel and the USA. It was triggered by the fact that Israel had reintroduced the previously abolished tariffs of 120% on imported fish on January 1, 2010 and several containers with fish from the USA were withheld in the Israeli port of Ashdod because the American exporters were unable to benefit from the reintroduction who did not know about customs, refused to declare their goods. According to the Israeli newspaper Haaretz, the fish are said to have been frozen carp, which in Israel should be processed into "gefilte fish", which are particularly popular on Passover, while the media in the USA apparently believed this that they are ready-made "Gefilte Fish". In any case, at the request of a Republican MP from Illinois , where the fish came from, the American Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton intervened with the Israeli Defense Secretary Ehud Barak , who was currently in the United States. This turned to the responsible ministry in Israel, which proposed a compromise to the American fish producers, which they rejected. The Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu personally attended to the matter shortly afterwards during a visit to the USA, apparently with the result that the fish from the American Midwest were shipped from Israel back to Canada to be processed into "gefilte fish" to become.

“Gefilte Fisch” in memories and literature

In the literature "Gefilte Fisch" is mostly mentioned by Jewish authors of the 19th and early 20th centuries as a dish for special occasions or Sabbaths and holidays. In 1892 novel, Children of the Ghetto (German children of the ghetto ) of the Anglo-Jewish writer Israel Zangwill they dive under the name "stuffed fish", probably for the first time in the English literature, with a after the ceremony of initiation of a firstborn son served high tea - in addition to the deep-fried, cold-eaten fish, a typical English-Jewish specialty.

In Immanuel Olsvanger's collection of Yiddish stories and songs, first published in 1920, an anecdote portrays “Gefilte Fish” as a dish that is offered to a guest at a simple lunch.

In the story Der König , written in 1921, by the Russian-Jewish writer Isaak Babel from Odessa , “Stuffed Fish” is part of a sumptuous meal that the crook king Benja Krik offers at his sister's wedding. “Gefilte Fisch” are also part of every Jewish Friday evening:

“Then evening and morning became the sixth day. On the sixth day, Friday evening, there is prayer, and if one has prayed, one goes around town with the scraper lid and strives home for supper. At home the Jew drinks a schnapps, and neither God nor the Talmud forbid him to have two of them, eats his stuffed fish and his raisin cake. After supper he is really well. Then he tells his wife long stories, takes a nap ... That's how every Jew does it. "

And in the early 1915, partly autobiographical story Childhood. With his grandmother , Babel even describes the “stuffed fish” with chrein, which he used to eat with his grandmother on Saturday lunchtime, as a “dish for which it is worth converting to Judaism”. Otherwise "Gefilte Fisch" is often mentioned in the autobiographical records of Eastern and Central European authors. For the memoirs of Max Fürst , which appeared in 1973 and has been reissued several times , the court even gave the title.

In Joseph Roth's 1927 essay Jews on the move , the author describes a. a. the back room of a tavern run by Jews in Berlin's Hirtenstrasse on the edge of the Scheunenviertel . He describes this as the “most Jewish of all Berlin streets” and, with the smell of “filtered fish” - described in the work as a Jewish onion- filled fish - conveys a certain poverty in addition to the typically Jewish milieu.

In Harold Pinter's 1958 uraufgeführtem play The Birthday Party (Birthday Party) ensures the always cold Eaten "gefilte fish" for laughs when the protagonist Goldberg recalls how his mother asked him on Friday evening to hurry up, "<before [ the food] is getting cold ›. And what did it say on the table? The most beautiful piece of gefilte fish that could ever be seen on a plate. "

Standing Glass Fish. Frank Gehry, 1986, Minneapolis Sculpture Garden

Sometimes customs associated with “Gefilte Fish” are also remembered. The custom of tasting Shabbat dishes on Friday lunchtimes or afternoons is already known from the 16th century. This custom, particularly with regard to the fish dish, is represented in the autobiographical records of several Eastern European authors.

A special place in many memories has a custom that is not Jewish, but is often viewed as specifically Jewish in North America and referred to as the childhood trauma of several generations of American Jews: the custom of eating the living fish, usually a carp, bought early on in the bathtub at home until it is killed and processed into "gefilte fish". The 1972 first published children's book The Carp In The Bathtub (German Carp in the bath ) by Barbara Cohen heard in the US to the classic children's books. It describes how two children who do not eat “gefilten fish” try to save the life of such a fish. The custom became known outside of North America through the architect Frank Gehry , in whose work fish and fish scales play a role. The explanation for this is usually taken from the story once told by Gehry, in which he describes how as a child he accompanied his grandmother to the market on Thursdays, where she bought the live fish, which then lived on with his grandparents in the bathtub, where he played with him until his grandmother killed the fish on Friday and made it into "Gefilte Fisch". Gehry himself denies the importance of this childhood experience by pointing out that it was common to all Jewish children. In Philip Roth's 2010 short novel Nemesis , the only thing the main character Bucky Cantor can remember as a child visiting the grave of his mother, who died childbirth, is the tale of how his mother fell in love with the fish as a child the bathtub played:

“Whenever he tried to think properly about the grave, he always remembered the story his grandmother had told him about his mother and the fish. Of all her stories ... this one was the deepest one in his mind. The unforgettable event had taken place on a spring afternoon long before he was born and died: his grandmother always went to the fish shop on Avon Avenue to pick two live carp from the aquarium while preparing for Passover. She then brought it home in a bucket and put it in the water-filled zinc tub that the family used to bathe in. The fish stayed there until it was time to cut off their heads and tails, scale and cook them, and prepare gefilte fish from them. One day now, when Mr. Cantor's mother was five, she came home from kindergarten, saw the fish, quickly took off her clothes, and got into the tub to play with them. His grandmother spotted her when she went up from the shop to the apartment to make the child something to eat. The two of them didn't tell his grandfather for fear that he might punish the girl ... It might be strange that Mr. Cantor thought of this story at his mother's grave - but what unforgettable memories should he have otherwise? "

literature

Cookbooks

  • Jana Doležalová, Alena Krekulová: Jewish cuisine. From the Czech , Werner Dausien, Hanau 1996, ISBN 3-7684-4634-4 .
  • Rahel Heuberger, Regina Schneider: Kosher Cooking - 36 classics of Jewish cuisine and their variants. Eichborn, Frankfurt am Main 1999, ISBN 3-8218-0678-8 .
  • Salcia Landmann: Kosher delicacies. Recipes and Stories . Hahn, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-87287-480-2 .
  • Katrin Pieper: Jewish festivals, history (s) & dishes. Sweet & salty - bitter-hot . Buchverlag für die Frau, Leipzig 2008, ISBN 978-3-89798-239-0 .
  • James Rizzi and Peter Bührer: My New York Cookbook . Hahn, Munich 1996, ISBN 3-87287-432-2 .
  • Claudia Roden: The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York . Knopf, New York 1997, ISBN 0-394-53258-9 (English)
    • The book of Jewish cuisine. An odyssey from Samarkand to New York . Mandelbaum Verlag, Vienna 2012, ISBN 978-3-85476-388-8 .
  • Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen: Jewish Cuisine - 100 Authentic Recipes . From the English. Könemann, Cologne 2000, ISBN 3-8290-4799-1 .

Dictionaries, encyclopedias

Web links

Commons : Gefilte Fish  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Notes and individual references

  1. ↑ געפילטע פיש[ gefiltə fiʃ ] is only used in Yiddish in the plural , in German “Gefilte Fisch” is mostly used as a singular .
  2. ^ Gary A. Wedemeyer: Freshwater Fish. Carp. In: Solomon H. Katz (Ed.): Encyclopedia of Food and Culture. Volume 1, Scribner, New York 2003, ISBN 0-684-80568-5 , p. 645. (English)
  3. ↑ In many cases, a mixture of different freshwater fish is chosen for the filling, sometimes not traditional today such as salmon . In the UK, however, marine fish, mostly a mix of cod , haddock and merlan , are used. Claudia Roden: Le livre de la cuisine juive . Flammarion, Paris 2003, ISBN 2-08-011055-1 , pp. 105f. (French)
  4. ↑ Leonardo La Rosa: Classic Cookbook - Quite Kosher. In: NZZ Folio . 09/00. Retrieved November 17, 2009.
  5. ↑ a b c Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett: Food and Drink. In: The YIVO Encyclopedia of Jews in Eastern Europe . 2 volumes, Yale University Press, New Haven 2008, ISBN 978-0-300-11903-9 , p. 534. Retrieved December 16, 2009.
  6. ^ Salcia Landmann: The Jewish kitchen. Recipes and Stories. Hahn, Munich 1995, ISBN 3-87287-421-7 , p. 114 f.
  7. ↑ Tamara Mann: No Joke: Gefilte Fish That's Not Gooish. In: The Washington Post. April 1, 2009. (English). Retrieved February 10, 2011.
  8. ↑ Yiddish plural of Polish kiełbik = diminutive of kiełb, see E. Polański: Nowy słownik ortograficzny . Wyd. Naukowe PWN, Warszawa 2002.
  9. ↑ Wrong Fish. In: Gil Marks: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food . John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken NJ 2010, ISBN 978-0-470-39130-3 , p. 185. excerpts (online)
  10. ↑ Das buoch von guoter spise (The book of good food, around 1350): von gefuelten hechden (17: 1) (online)
  11. ↑ a b c d e Gefilte fish. In: Gil Marks: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food . John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken NJ 2010, p. 219 ff. Excerpts online
  12. ^ Claudia Roden: The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York . Knopf, New York 1997, ISBN 0-394-53258-9 , p. 107. (English)
  13. ↑ Haym Soloveitchik: Rupture and Reconstruction. The Transformation of Contemporary Orthodoxy . In: Tradition. Vol. 28, No. 4 (Summer 1994). (English) Retrieved July 3, 2010.
  14. ^ A b Steven Lowenstein: The Shifting Boundary Between Eastern and Western Jewry. In: Jewish Social Studies. Vol. 4, Issue 1, 1997, p. 63; Marvin Herzog u. a. (Ed.): The Language and Culture Atlas of Ashkenazic Jewry . Volume 3 The Eastern Yiddish - Western Yiddish Continuum. Niemeyer, Tübingen 2000, ISBN 3-484-73005-6 , p. 31 and map 117S2 gəfiltə fiš eaten or not? (English)
  15. ↑ Berta Gumprich: Complete practical cookbook for the Jewish kitchen. Self-checked and proven recipes for the preparation of all meals, drinks, baked goods and everything canned for the common and fine kitchen . Wissenschaftlicher Verlag Trier, Trier 2002, ISBN 3-88476-560-4 , p. 142.
  16. ^ The Jewish Manual; or Practical Information in Jewish & Modern Cookery, with a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the Toilette. T. and W. Boone, London 1846, p. 37 ff. (Online) (English). Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  17. ^ Marie Kauders: First Israelite cookbook for Bohemian cuisine . Jacob B. Brandeis, Prague 1886, p. 61 f . ( google.com ).
  18. ↑ Farziert Fisch. In: Complete Israelite Cookbook…. P. 115 f. Retrieved February 8, 2011.
  19. ^ Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett: The Kosher Gourmet in the Nineteenth-Century Kitchen: Three Jewish Cookbooks in Historical Perspective . In: Journal of Gastronomy. 2, no. 4 (1986-1987), p. 63 (English). Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  20. ^ Esther Levy: Jewish cookery book, on principles of economy. Adapted for Jewish housekeepers, with the addition of many useful medicinal recipes, and other valuable information, relative to housekeeping and domestic management. W. S. Turner, Philadelphia 1871, pp. 17-26 online . Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  21. ↑ “Aunt Babette”: “Aunt Babette's” Cook Book. Foreign and domestic receipts for the household. A valuable collection of receipts and hints for the housewife, many of which are not to be found elsewhere . Block pub. and Print Co. Cincinnati 1889, pp. 32f. online (English). Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  22. ^ Lizzie Black Kander: The Settlement Cook Book . Milwaukee 1901, p. 102 online . Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  23. ^ Florence Kreisler Greenbaum: The International Jewish Cook Book. 1600 Recipes According To The Jewish Dietary Laws With The Rules For Kashering. The Favorite Recipes Of America, Austria, Germany, Russia, France, Poland, Roumania, Ect., Ect. Bloch Pub. Co., New York 1919, pp. 38 f. online (English). Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  24. ↑ Marvin Herzog et al. a. (Ed.): The Language and Culture Atlas of Ashkenazic Jewry . Volume 3 The Eastern Yiddish - Western Yiddish Continuum . Niemeyer, Tübingen 2000, p. 292 (English)
  25. ^ A b Salcia Landmann: The Kosher Kitchen. 200 recipes for gourmets and connoisseurs with explanations of Jewish festivals and customs . Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, Munich 1976, ISBN 3-453-40181-6 , p. 52; The Jewish kitchen. Recipes and Stories . Hahn, Munich 1995, ISBN 3-87287-421-7 , pp. 118f.
  26. ↑ a b Alice Nakhimovsky: You are what they ate. Russian Jews reclaim their foodways. In: Shofar. September 2006, pp. 63-77 (online) ( Memento from March 29, 2015 in the Internet Archive ). HighBeam Research (English). Retrieved February 7, 2011.
  27. ^ Marvin I. Herzog: The Yiddish language in Northern Poland; its geography and history . Bloomington, Indiana 1965. Publications of the Indiana University Research Center in Anthropology, Folklore and Linguistics, 37; International journal of American linguistics, vol. 31, no. 2 (English)
  28. ↑ Gefilte fish identities . At jmberlin.de, accessed on December 21, 2017
  29. ↑ Diane K. Roskies, David G. Roskies: The Shtetl Boook . Ktav Pub. House, New York 1975, ISBN 0-87068-456-6 , p. 36 f. (English)
  30. ^ A b c Steven M. Lowenstein: Jüdisches Leben - Jüdischer Customs. International Jewish folk tradition . From the American, Düsseldorf and Zurich 2002, ISBN 3-538-07142-X , p. 136.
  31. ^ Karp po żydowsku (carp in the Jewish style) . Retrieved December 22, 2009.
  32. ↑ Eve Jochnowitz: Flavors of Memory. Jewish Food as Culinary Tourism in Poland. In: Lucy M. Long (Ed.): Culinary tourism . University Press of Kentucky, Lexington 2004, ISBN 0-8131-2292-9 , pp. 97-113, excerpts online (English). Retrieved December 22, 2009.
  33. ↑ a b c d Elliott Horowitz: Sabbath. In: The YIVO Encyclopedia of Jews in Eastern Europe. 2 volumes, Yale University Press, New Haven 2008, Volume 2, pp. 1645f., Online (English)
  34. ↑ Martine Chiche-Yana: Traditions des fêtes de l'année juive. Coutumes et recettes . Edisud, Aix-en-Provence 1992–1994, ISBN 2-85744-567-9 , 1st volume, p. 269 (French)
  35. ↑ Recette de Carpe à la juive ( Memento of January 4, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) (French). Retrieved December 22, 2009.
  36. ↑ A relatively common subsidiary form of "Gefilte Fisch / gefilte fish" was "Gefüllte Fisch / gefüllte Fisch / gefüllte fish"
  37. ^ David L. Gold: Studies in Etymology and Etiology. (With Emphasis on Germanic, Jewish, Romance and Slavic languages) . Publicaciones de la Universidad de Alicante 2009, ISBN 978-84-7908-517-9 , p. 337. online in excerpts (English)
  38. ↑ a b website of the Gefilte Fish group . Retrieved July 3, 2010.
  39. ↑ Num 11.5  EU
  40. ^ Nathan MacDonald: What did the ancient Israelites eat? Diet in biblical times . Eerdmans, Grand Rapids MI, ISBN 978-0-8028-6298-3 , p. 37 f. (English)
  41. ↑ Ann Dunnigan: Fish. In: Lindsay Jones (Ed.): Encyclopedia of Religion. 2nd Edition, Volume 5, Macmillan Reference USA, Detroit 2005, pp. 3122-3124, online Gale Virtual Reference Library . Retrieved May 25, 2011.
  42. ↑ Gen 48.16  EU
  43. ↑ Geoffrey W. Dennis: The encyclopedia of Jewish myth, magic and mysticism Llewellyn Worldwide, 2007, ISBN 978-0-7387-0905-5 , p. 95 (English.) Retrieved January 9, 2010.
  44. ↑ The Babylonian Talmud . After the first censorship-free edition, taking into account the more recent editions and handwritten material, retransmitted by Lazarus Goldschmidt. 12 volumes, 4th edition. Jüdischer Verlag, Frankfurt am Main 1996, Volume 8, Baba Batra 75, pp. 209 f. Babylonian Talmud, Baba Batra 74b-75a (English). Retrieved January 11, 2010.
  45. ↑ Aulus Persius Flaccus: The satires. with an explanatory translation, Verlag Bey George Iacob Decker, Berlin and Leipzig 1775, Satire V, p. 102f. online (Latin and German). Retrieved June 8, 2010.
  46. ↑ Gen 1.22  EU
  47. ↑ The Babylonian Talmud . After the first censorship-free edition taking into account the newer editions and handwritten material, retransmitted by Lazarus Goldschmidt 12 volumes, 4th edition. Jüdischer Verlag, Frankfurt am Main 1996, Volume 1, Šabbath 117–118, pp. 797ff. Babylonian Talmud, Shabbat 117-118 (English). Retrieved January 9, 2010.
  48. ↑ Israel Meir Ha-Kohen: Mishnah Berurah. The classic Commentary to Shulchan Aruch Orach Chayim, comprising the Laws of daily Jewish Conduct . Hebrew with English translation, edited by Aharon Feldman and Aviel Orenstein. Pisgah Foundation Jerusalem, Feldheim Publishers, New York 1980, Shabbos. Volume 3 A, § 242, ISBN 0-87306-198-5 , p. 3 ff. Excerpts online (Hebrew and English). Retrieved June 3, 2010.
  49. ^ Carp. In: Gil Marks: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food . John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken NJ 2010, pp. 91ff. excerpts online
  50. ↑ The Babylonian Talmud . After the first censorship-free edition taking into account the newer editions and handwritten material, retransmitted by Lazarus Goldschmidt 12 volumes, 4th edition. Jüdischer Verlag, Frankfurt am Main 1996, Volume 1, Sabbath 73a-74a, p. 654 Babylonian Talmud, Shabbat 73-74 (English). Retrieved June 8, 2010.
  51. ↑ Klaus Koenen: Threshing and worming The Bible lexicon WiBiLex. Retrieved June 10, 2010.
  52. ↑ Gil Student: Fish, Bones, In-laws and Mimeticism Hirhurim-Musings-Blog, October 30, 2005 (English). Retrieved July 5, 2010.
  53. ^ So Haym Soloveitchik, professor of history at Yeshiva University in New York , in his famous essay Rupture and Reconstruction. The Transformation of Contemporary Orthodoxy . Published in: Tradition. Vol. 28, No. 4 (Summer 1994) (translation from English). Retrieved July 3, 2010.
  54. ↑ Ze'ev Yeivin, Molly Bar-David, and Yom-Tov Lewinski: Article “Food”. In: Michael Berenbaum, Fred Skolnik (Ed.): Encyclopaedia Judaica . Volume 7, Macmillan Reference USA, Detroit 2007, p. 118, online: Gale Virtual Reference Library (English). Retrieved July 3, 2010.
  55. ^ Salcia Landmann: The Jewish kitchen. Recipes and Stories . Hahn, Munich 1995, p. 113.
  56. ↑ Martine Chiche-Yana: Traditions des fêtes de l'année juive. Coutumes et recettes . Edisud, Aix-en-Provence 1992–1994, Volume 1, p. 267 (French)
  57. ↑ Leah Koenig: Beyond Gefilte Fish . Tablet Magazine, March 18, 2013 (English). Retrieved June 7, 2013.
  58. ^ Salcia Landmann: The Jewish kitchen. Recipes and Stories . Hahn, Munich 1995, p. 109f.
  59. ^ Donald Weber: Memory and Repression in Early Ethnic Television. The Example of Gertrude Berg and The Goldbergs. In: Joel Foreman (Ed.): The other fifties. Interrogating midcentury American icons. University of Illinois Press, 1997, ISBN 0-252-06574-3 , pp. 146-166, excerpts online (English). Retrieved April 16, 2011.
  60. ↑ Jonathan Pearl, Judith Pearl: The chosen image. Television's portrayal of Jewish themes and characters . McFarland, Jefferson NC 1999, ISBN 0-7864-0522-8 , p. 56, excerpts online
  61. ↑ Nathan Abrams: “I'll Have Whatever She's Having”. Jews, Food, and Film. In: Anne L. Bower (Ed.): Reel food. Essays on food and film . Routledge, London, New York 2004, ISBN 0-415-97111-X , p. 90, extracts online (English). Retrieved June 8, 2010.
  62. ↑ BBB – Diphyllobothrium spp US Food and Drug Administration (English). Retrieved February 8, 2010.
  63. ↑ Methods of preparing an edible Fish Product (English). Retrieved December 16, 2009.
  64. ↑ Tamara Mann: Gefilte Fish in America. A history of the Jewish fish product MyJewishLearning (English). Retrieved February 23, 2010.
  65. ↑ Richard Chaim Schneider: In the skin of the parents: German Association - Loss of Jewish Identity? In: The time . No. 50, December 7, 1990.
  66. ↑ Anita Kugler : What makes the Sachertorte Jewish? In: the daily newspaper . June 13, 1991, quoted from: Katharina Ochse: “What Could Be More Fruitful, More Healing, More Purifying?” Representations of Jews in the German Media after 1989. In: Sander L. Gilman & Karen Remmler (Eds.): Reemerging Jewish Culture in Germany. Life and Literature since 1989. NYU Press, New York 1994, ISBN 0-8147-3065-5 , p. 123.
  67. ↑ Nathan Abrams, Mother's Old-Fashioned Gefilte Fish. In: Nathan Abrams, Julie Hughes (Eds.): Containing America. Cultural Production and Consumption in Fifties America . University of Birmingham Press 2000, ISBN 1-902459-06-7 , p. 76 ff. Online (English)
  68. ↑ Translated from English from: Edward S. Shapiro: A Time for Healing. American Jewry Since World War II . Johns Hopkins University Press, Baltimore 1992, ISBN 0-8018-4347-2 , p. 92 online (English)
  69. ↑ Andrew F. Smith: The first suppers: A tradition of inaugural meals The Los Angeles Times, January 14, 2009. Retrieved September 16, 2010.
  70. ↑ Jodi Kantor: Next Year in the White House: A Seder Tradition The New York Times, March 27, 2010 (English). Retrieved September 2, 2010.
  71. ↑ Lynn Sweet: At White House Seder: Gefilte Fish, Brisket and a Host of Familiar Faces AOL News, Politics Daily, March 30, 2010. Retrieved September 2, 2010.
  72. ↑ Danielle Borrin: Why Is This Night Different from All Other Nights? Recipes for Passover The White House, Office of Public Engagement, April 18, 2011. Accessed: April 20, 2011; Lynn Sweet: Obama's 2012 Passover seder: the menu, who attended, picture. ( Memento of April 13, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) In: Chicago Sun-Times. April 9, 2012 (English). Retrieved April 13, 2012.
  73. ↑ Amiram Cohen: 'Carp tax' spawns trade dispute with Americans Haaretz, March 2, 2010 (English). Retrieved November 1, 2010.
  74. ↑ Jonathan Weisman: Let My Gefilte Fish Go! The Wall Street Journal. Blogs, Feb. 26, 2010; Richard Uliano: Democrat and Republican come together on gefilte fish CNN Radio, February 25, 2010 (English). Retrieved September 2, 2010.
  75. ↑ Amiram Cohen: Israel, US try to mend another crisis - over gefilte fish. While in Washington, Netanyahu seeks to solve tax dispute related to carp imports Haaretz, March 25, 2010 (English). Retrieved September 2, 2010.
  76. ↑ “ … and there is even stuffed fish , which is stuffed fish without bones - but fried fish reigns above all in cold, unquestioned sovereignty. ”(German:“ And there is even stuffed fish , that is stuffed fish without bones - but deep-fried fish rules over everything in cold, undisputed sovereignty. ”) Israel Zangwill: Children of the Ghetto. A Study of a Peculiar People . Wayne State University Press, Detroit 1998, ISBN 0-8143-2593-9 , p. 116.
  77. ↑ Immanuel Olsvanger: A kluge wajb. In: From the folk literature of the Eastern Jews. Rascals, stories, folk songs and riddles. Verlag der Schweizerische Gesellschaft für Volkskunde, Basel 1920, p. 10. (online)
  78. ↑ Isaak Babel: Stories from Odessa. The king. In: Budjonny's cavalry army and others. The narrative work. Walter, Olten 1960, p. 185.
  79. ↑ Isaac Babel: Schabbes nachamu (1918). In: An evening with the empress. Volk und Welt, Berlin (East) 1969, p. 32.
  80. ↑ Isaac Babel: Childhood. With the grandmother. In: An evening with the empress. Volk und Welt, Berlin (East) 1969, p. 12.
  81. ↑ Max Fürst: Gefilte Fisch. A youth in Königsberg . With an afterthought by Helmut Heißenbüttel . Hanser, Munich 1973, ISBN 3-446-11768-7 .
  82. ^ Joseph Roth: Jews on the move. Kiepenheuer & Witsch, Cologne 1985, ISBN 3-462-01699-7 , p. 49/50.
  83. ↑ Harold Pinter: The birthday party . German by Willy H. Thiem, Rowohlt, Reinbek bei Hamburg 1970, p. 34.
  84. ↑ Ben-Zion Gold: The life of Jews in Poland before the Holocaust. A memoir . University of Nebraska Press 2007, ISBN 978-0-8032-2222-9 , p. 18, extracts online (English)
  85. ^ Judy Dempsey: From the bathtub into the vat: Holiday carp The New York Times, December 23, 2004 (English). Retrieved February 21, 2011.
  86. ↑ Jonathan Deutsch, Rachel D. Saks: Jewish American food culture . Greenwood Press, Westport CT 2008, ISBN 978-0-313-34319-3 , p. 28, excerpts online (English)
  87. ^ Barbara Cohen: The Carp in the Bathtub . Illustrated by Joan Halpern. Kar-Ben Publishing, Rockville MD 1987, ISBN 0-930494-67-9 excerpts online (English)
  88. ^ Gavriel Rosenfeld: Fish (y) Forms. Early Works Illuminate Frank Gehry's Aesthetic The Jewish Daily Forward, September 15, 2010 (English). Retrieved February 21, 2011.
  89. ↑ Vladimir Paperny: Interview with Frank Gehry . December 16, 2004 (English). Retrieved February 21, 2011.
  90. ↑ Philip Roth: Nemesis . German by Dirk van Gunsteren, Carl Hanser, Munich 2011, ISBN 978-3-446-23642-4 , p. 64 ff.
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