Salzburg old town (left)
The old town of Salzburg is divided into two parts of the city of Salzburg that are separated from the Salzach : the part to the west and orographically to the left of the Salzach, which forms the oldest core of the city, and the old town to the right of the Salzach .
The Left Old Town , the actual district, is surrounded by the Mönchsberg in the west and by the Festungsberg with Nonnberg as landscape areas in the south . In the north, the Müllner Hügel with the old suburb of Mülln once offered greater strategic security. In this way, protected by mountains on three sides, the Left Old Town is bordered in the east by the course of the Salzach River. The southernmost part of the Left Old Town around Kaigasse is commonly referred to as the Kaiviertel .
Left town with Kaiviertel, Fortress Mountain and Mönchsberg belong to the UNESCO World Heritage historical center of the city of Salzburg ( English Historic Center of the City of Salzburg ).
Churches
Salzburg Cathedral
The central ecclesiastical building of the city of Salzburg is the Salzburg Cathedral, consecrated to Saints Rupert and Virgil . The oldest predecessor of today's cathedral, which with its three naves was one of the largest church buildings of the 8th century, was built from 767 to 774 under Bishop Virgil and in 1139 it was provided with two high church towers. The cathedral burned down in 1167. The even more stately Konradine Cathedral was built on top of it, which was then the largest basilica north of the Alps. When this cathedral was again badly damaged in a fire in 1598, Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau had it demolished in order to build an even larger one. His successor, Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, removed the first foundations and began with a smaller cathedral structure. This building, planned by master builder Santino Solari , was inaugurated in 1628 under Paris Lodron .
The closed marble cladding of the main facade with its octagonal church towers and the four marble figures at the entrances can be seen from the cathedral square.
Collegiate Church of St. Peter
The first monastery church of St. Peter was built around 696 when Rupert (Hruodpert) renewed the Romanesque monastery community there. The core of today's church goes back to a building that was built in 1125–1143. The mighty church tower, which was Romanized around 1400, dates back to the 9th century.
In the spirit of the Renaissance, the church was redesigned in 1605/06, vaulted in 1619/20 and given a slender crossing dome in 1622. The unmistakable baroque onion dome was built under Abbot Seeauer in 1756. The two high altars were mainly designed by Martin Johann Schmidt , known as Kremser Schmidt. The interior of the church was decorated with rich rococo furnishings ( rocailles and ceiling paintings) from 1760–1766 . The old Romanesque building structure remains clearly recognizable.
St. Michael Church
The church in honor of the Archangel Michael is the oldest parish church in the city of Salzburg. Its origins go back to the Carolingian era. The church was built next to the Bavarian Palatinate , the ducal administrative seat of the Agilolfinger , and the oldest court seat in the city, then commonly known as Schranne . Even before 800 the oldest church of St. Michael can be found here "at the gate", which was a branch church of St. Peter from the beginning. Until the 12th century, the Michaelskirche was at the same time the imperial palatine chapel and the parish church of the citizens. It consequently had two entrances and two floors. The upper floor was for the emperor and his entourage and had access from the Palatinate, the lower floor was for the citizens. After the old market square and soon the seat of the court were relocated, the little church was no longer the focus of bourgeois life. The Marienkirche (today the Franciscan Church) and later the cathedral replaced the Michaelskirche as a parish church. 1767–1778, this church was rebuilt again on behalf of Abbot Beda Seeauer and redesigned according to contemporary tastes. The current marble high altar with the image of St. Michael was changed in 1770.
Collegiate church Nonnberg Maria Himmelfahrt
Around 715, Hruodpert ( Rupert ) founded the Benedictine monastery Nonnberg on the Nonnberg (today the world's oldest Christian convent with an uninterrupted tradition), Rupert's niece Erentrudis was the first abbess. The first monastery church burned down around 1006. A new monastery church was completed in 1009 with significant support from Heinrich II . The mighty church tower, portal parts and under the nuns' choir the “paradise” with its frescoes (around 1140) have been preserved from the Romanesque period .
After the fire in 1423, the church was rebuilt in a late Gothic style from 1464. The Gothic nave has church windows decorated with branches, whereby the Gothic "clan window" behind the altar is of particular importance. It was donated by the Salzburg citizen and later mayor Augustin Claner in 1473 and created by Hemmel von Andlau.
The Gothic winged altar (from the workshop of the Hallstatt master) and the neo-Gothic additions come from the Abtenau church. The church interior, which is always very dark, with the raised choir above the crypt, gives the church its own atmosphere. The timeless, meditative Gregorian chant of the nuns' choir can be heard here on high festive church services.
Bürgerspitalkirche St. Blasius
The Admont monks built a first chapel here on their property, which was consecrated to their patron saint, St. Blaise. Archbishop Konrad III v. After the land swap with the monks, Leibnitz had a hospital built here in 1327 for sick, old and ailing citizens of the city, where at least basic care and support should be ensured. In 1330 the three-aisled church building with its ribbed vault was created for the new hospital. The hospital was later expanded into Mönchsberg, with arbor arches leading outside the newly created cells, which have been preserved. (The hospital was then expanded again in 1570 with the Pfründnerhaus.) Between 1410 and 1428 a gallery was built into the church, the gallery parapet being designed as an openwork tracery. The new upper storey now served as a prayer choir for the beneficiaries, making the church a double church with two opposite entrances on the one hand for citizens and on the other for beneficiaries. The altar was now in the middle of the nave. In the baroque period the church even had 9 altars until Archbishop Colloredo had a large part of the altars removed. The niche architecture on the east facade is of neo-Gothic origin. The stained glass windows in the east were made by Albert Birkle in 1947 . The former prayer choir of the benefactors is now separated from the church and known as the "Gothic Hall". It is used in many ways as a concert hall.
Every Sunday 6:30 p.m. HL mass and 7:30 p.m. Loretto prayer group in the Gothic Hall.
Franciscan Church To Our Lady
→ Main article Franciscan Church
The first church is probably older than the cathedral of St. Virgil. It was originally the city's baptismal and synod church. Between 1130 and 1583 it was also the monastery church of the Petersfrauen. From 1189 to 1635 it is the parish church of the city (before that it was the Michaelskirche, afterwards the cathedral). A new consecration of the church in 1223 suggests a new building that was just completed at the time, but today's church is likely to date back to the 12th century in the nave area. This Marienkirche was also largely destroyed in the city fire of 1267. After 1408 an extensive new building is considered, which started a few years later under Master Hans von Burghausen and was finished by Stephan Krumenauer after his death in 1432 . The upper floors of the tower were built between 1486 and 1498. In 1592 Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau handed the church over to the newly called Franciscans as a monastery church. The Franciscan Church consists of two parts; the original Romanesque nave basilica with its ribbed vault and then, in the same width as the nave, the delicate late Gothic choir with star rib vault. Today's high altar was built in 1709 in place of a large Gothic altar by Michael Pacher by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach , where he built the figure of Mary into the new altar from the old carved altar.
At the edge of the church there are a number of chapel chapels: the Nativity Chapel, the Rochus Chapel, the Kreuzkapelle, the Joseph Chapel, the Sebastian Chapel, the Anna Chapel and the St. Francis Chapel (the latter with a mural by Johann Michael Rottmayr ).
Kollegienkirche (University Church)
Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun , the "founder", implemented the long-planned church building against some resistance. The architect of the church was Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach . Today the church is the most important church building in the city of Salzburg next to the cathedral, a major work of the baroque architect Erlach and a church building of international standing. Erlach lets the design of the detailed decorative elements recede in favor of the experience of the entire building and its architecture - also through the execution of the church interior in a uniform white color without painting. The church building became the model for many late baroque churches in southern Germany. The church was consecrated in 1707 in honor of the Immaculate Virgin Mary.
The church has three parts: the façade in the east, the main house and the sloping annexes in the west. The towers in this church no longer have a dome, rather they dissolve towards the top in delicate balustrades crowned by allegorical figures. The figures represent the four archangels on the left and the four Roman Fathers of the Church on the right. The figure of St. Mary on a crescent moon crowns the center of the building. The large windows of the facade open the building to the outside and dissolve the weight of the middle facade front.
The inside of the church is designed as a towering barrel vault in the shape of a cross with collosal pilasters and a central high drum dome, whereby the building is closed by the four high main chapels, which are dedicated to the saints of the four classical faculties (Thomas Aquinas, Luke, Ivo and Katharina) is standardized in a central building. These open chapels with their altars, which are integrated into the church building, shape the interior of the church alongside the main altar. The altar, designed by Father Bernhard Stuart and executed by Josef Anton Pfaffinger , dissolves towards the top in stucco figures. In front of the pillars are allegorical figures of music, poetry, painting and architecture and the four faculties. Love and hope float above it, inspired by faith.
Kajetanerkirche St. Maximilian
As a church, today's Kajetanerkirche with its attached hospital of the Barmherzigen Brüder, located next to the old city gate (Inneres Nonntalertor, Inneres Erentrudistor), is very old. A church and a hospital stood here as early as 1150. But here was also the Raplbad, in which the doctor Bombastus Theophrastus von Hohenheim, known as Paracelsus, worked. In 1684, Archbishop Max Gandolf Kuenburg founded a seminary under the direction of the Theatines (commonly called Kajetaner after their founder). From 1685 to 1697, the new church and the planned seminary were built here under the direction of the Italian Giovanni Gaspare Zugalli. Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun , who ruled from 1687, was no friend of the “Wälschen Barock” and the Theatiners, which is why Zugalli had to fight for a long time about the final accounts. The seminary was then built on the side of the Trinity Church under new management.
Two wings of the former monastery enclose the small church embedded in the building line. The central building is crowned by a high drum dome with 4 small chapels integrated on the sides. Small decorative wall panels with false windows and galleries complete the church. The dome fresco was created by Paul Troger . The altarpiece of the high altar with the torture of St. Maximilian, the altarpiece of the right side altar and four pictures on canvas above the confessionals were also created by Paul Troger. The altarpiece on the left side altar is by Johann Michael Rottmayr . A special feature is the Holy Staircase next to the church, which was built here in imitation of the Roman Scala Santa in 1712. It consists of 49 steps, can only be climbed while kneeling and leads up to the cross altar, which was created around 1750.
In 1809 the branch of the Congregation of the Theatines was abolished. The building now served as a garrison hospital. In 1923 it was handed over to the Brothers of Mercy in continuation of the hospital work.
Ursuline Church of St. Markus
As sovereign prince, social tasks were always important to Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun . So in 1695 he called the Congregation of the Ursulines to Salzburg to improve the education of the female youth , which was initially housed outside the city in today's Arenberg Castle, but soon moved to the Klausentor near the city.
In 1699, the foundation stone for the Ursuline monastery and the adjoining church of St. Mark was laid here. The builder Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach took over the management of the building. The church was completed in 1705, the adjoining monastery building was then erected between 1713 and 1726. In the narrow space between the high rock face of the Mönchsberg and the fortress wall facing the Salzach, the architect erected a church building with harmoniously swaying lines and baroque liveliness. The towers are set back to take advantage of the narrow space. The porch of the church has capitals in the Ionic style with an attached triangular gable, which is framed by the figure of Saint Mark and crowned by Saints Augustine and Ursula. These figures were probably created by Bernhard Michael Mandl . The interior is designed in a cross shape, the cross arms are very short. The vault paintings were added in 1756 by Christoph Anton Mayr .
The Ursuline monastery with its attached school (private high school) was relocated to Glasenbach in 1957, the former monastery rooms have been largely used by the natural history museum Haus der Natur Salzburg since 1959 .
Secular buildings
Old residence
The old residence is the historical prince-archbishop's palace complex. It lies between today's Residenzplatz and today's Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse and is first documented around 1120. New buildings took place mainly in the 15th and 16th centuries, especially under Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau . The wing facing the Old Market was built under Markus Sittikus, the one around the main courtyard was completed under Paris Lodron, raised under Guidobald von Thun and re-faced under Franz Anton Graf von Harrach . Between 1915 and 1918 the residence was the residence of members of the imperial family and their relatives of the Habsburg-Tuscany line. Also, Carolina Augusta lived here.
The old residence is grouped around four inner courtyards: the main courtyard (with access from Residenzplatz and Domplatz), the courtyard of the Toskanatrakt, the courtyard of the former Dietrichsruh and the small courtyard of the Wallistrakt. The residence consists of over 180 rooms and halls, including 15 state rooms. The large Carabinierisaal with a large ceiling painting by Johann Michael Rottmayr are known here . The subsequent princely rooms ( knight's hall , conference room, study, cabinet, bedroom, house chapel and parlor) were redesigned under the direction of Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt and decorated with paintings by Rottmayr and Martino Altomonte .
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart also played music in front of the Prince Archbishop in these magnificent rooms . Mozart premiered his Violin Concerto in A major (KV 219) here in 1775. The Salzburg Residence is one of the most valuable secular buildings in Salzburg's old town. On the 2nd floor is what is now the Residenzgalerie , in which the surviving paintings from the Prince Archbishops' collection are kept and shown.
New residence
Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau built the new residence. As early as 1588, the prince began to demolish the town houses and canons there. In the beginning, the New Residence probably served as a residence for the archbishop's brothers and as a representative hostel for foreign princes. Perhaps this building was also intended to be the archbishop's permanent residence. Archbishop Colloredo had the arsenal there cleared in 1786 and largely converted into administrative rooms.
On the 2nd floor there are the state rooms with mirror vaults and richly colored stucco decor. The hall of virtues (antecamera) is a rectangular hall with a stucco coffered ceiling and allegorical figures, with the focus on the three theological virtues. In the Gloriensaal there is a representation of the halo with choirs of angels on the ceiling. In the state hall there are depictions of self-sacrificing behavior: ( Horatius Cocles defends the Tiber bridge, Mucius Scaevola puts his hand in the fire, sacrificial death of Marcus Curtius ). The Feldherrensaal with Wolf Dietrich's coat of arms on a gold mosaic background shows half-figure representations of Charlemagne and other rulers.
Today the New Residence is used as the new Salzburg Museum . Here, in a separate room in the second courtyard of the New Residence, is the famous Sattler panorama , which Johann Michael Sattler painted with the help of Friedrich Loos (landscape) and Johann Schindler (figures). In 1828 the large circular painting, which meticulously captured the architecture of the city and its surroundings as a large picture, was finished.
The carillon was created from a tower that Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau placed in front of the building, which originally had 5 floors. In 1701 an octagonal structure in open arched arcades was placed on this tower and fitted with 32 bells by the Antwerp foundry Melchior des Haze (1688/1689), which Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun had made and which the Salzburg court clockmaker Jeremias Sauter then assembled here. On the ground floor, an arcade is presented to the tower, which forms the entrance portal for the Salzburger Heimatwerk .
Old University
The outwardly simple construction of the Old University began in 1618 when Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, the forerunner of the university, founded the first high school in Salzburg. In 1627, under the direction of Santino Solaris, the expansion of the building for the new Benedictine university founded in 1623 began. After 1630 the north wing with the large auditorium was built, from 1652 to 1655 the south wing was built. The courtyard has arcades with cross vaults, the upper floor arcades in the south wing were only exposed in 1981. On the ground floor, the corridors are designed as round arch arcades.
Sacellum
The Sacellum , which was built during the construction of the Old University and dedicated to Saint Borromeo , is a rectangular room with a five-bay groined vault. The ceiling pictures show the 15 secrets of the rosary in oval frames , a theme that the pictures of the Aula Academia repeat. The hall was expanded in 1663. The marble high altar was built from 1766 to 1768 based on a design by Wolfgang Hagenauer . Two side altars were created around 1750. The lead reliefs created by Johann Baptist Hagenauer with scenes from the life of Saints Benedictus and Borromeo are precious . A side chapel and a sacristy complete the sacred building. Today the room is used for Catholic services by the university community, academics association and theology students.
Aula academia
The Aula Academia (Great Aula), built in 1631 and recently redesigned, originally served as a congregation hall for the Marian Congregation of the College and was probably first redesigned around 1780 according to plans by Wolfgang Hagenauer. It also served as a historical multi-purpose room for trade fairs and theater performances. In the eight axes of the east and the seven axes of the west are the representations of the 15 mysteries of the rosary. The former large altarpiece is by Adrian Bloemart and shows Christ as the judge of the world surrounded by his mother Mary and saints.
town hall
The town hall, located on Rathausplatz and Kranzlmarkt, is today a four-story building with a rococo facade and a characteristic small tower that characterizes the townscape. It was used in the 14th century as the residence of the patrician family of the Keuzl ( Keutzlturm ) and was acquired by the municipality in 1407 and then completely rebuilt under Archbishop Markus Sittikus from 1616 to 1618. The present rococo facade was made in 1772. The small hexagonal bell tower with its multi-part hood contains old bells by Hans Ralb (14th century) and Christoph Stuhlschreiber (1519). The old tower clock with its long pendulum swinging inside the tower is remarkable. The large mechanical work is probably the oldest preserved clockwork in the state of Salzburg. There is also an old moon phase clock from 1618 on the facade of the house.
The figure of Justitia in a niche in the outer facade points to the earlier function of the house as a courtroom and comes from Hans Waldburger (1616).
On the second floor, next to the meeting room of the Salzburg City Council , you can see the large, well-known view of the city of Salzburg by Hans Kulstrunk from 1916. The famous portico of the town hall, which is used for a variety of purposes (primarily as a gallery and exhibition space), is a two-aisled and five-bay hall with flat cross-arched vaults on Tuscan columns and pilasters.
Walls from the 12th century and a coin treasure from the 17th century were recently found in the basement of the town hall. The so far oldest paved floor in Salzburg made of large, carefully grouted Salzach pebbles, dating from the 12th century, was uncovered here under the direction of the city archaeologist Wilfried Kovacsovics . A remnant of the old city wall of the city of Salzburg from the time the city was first fortified has also been exposed here. In recent years the building has been restored under the direction of Rüdiger Schobersberger.
Today the building on the ground floor is used by shops, but otherwise by municipal departments. The regular meetings of the City Council of the City of Salzburg take place here in the Great Hall on the 2nd floor.
Immediately next to the town hall is probably the oldest preserved patrician house in the city of Salzburg (Kranzlmarkt 3).
Hofmarstall (festival hall), Felsenreitschule and Marstallschwemme
The Hofmarstall was built in the complex with its elongated front facing Hofstallgasse by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau . In 1662 this building was expanded and the winter riding school was set up. Another expansion took place under Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun . The summer riding school and the facade on the northern narrow side facing Karajanplatz and Marstallschwemme were designed according to plans by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach in 1693/94. The marble archway there shows allegorical female figures (representing Europe and Asia) seated on pedestals, with unicorns, Archbishop Thun's heraldic animals. During the time of the monarchy, the royal stables were used as cavalry barracks. In 1925 the first conversion to a festival hall for the Salzburg Festival was carried out under the architect Eduard Hütter, and in 1926 and 1937/38 a further expansion under the direction of architect Clemens Holzmeister . The city hall, part of the former winter riding school (redesigned by Holzmeister in 1926) contains a ceiling fresco by Johann Michael Rottmayr and Christoph Lederwasch . After the House of Nature had moved to the former Ursuline Monastery (1956), the large festival hall was rebuilt according to plans by Clemens Holzmeister by 1960.
The Felsenreitschule was designed in 1693 under Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun, presumably based on designs by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach. The smooth walls of the Mönchsberg, forming a right angle to each other, which had been created by previous quarry work, were equipped with three-storey, flat-arched arcades. Today this place serves as a performance venue for the Salzburg Festival . In the course of the adaptations, today's auditorium, the lower stage and a canopy were built by Clemens Holzmeister in 1968/69 (the latter redesigned in 2011).
The Marstallschwemme was designed by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach as part of the redesign of the Hofmarstall. The statue of the horse tamer there , taming a rearing prince-archbishop's horse, is a successful sculpture with a high degree of dynamism and was originally aimed at the royal stables. In 1732 this horse pond was brought into its present form under Archbishop Leopold Eleutherius Firmian . His coat of arms adorns the base of the horse water sculpture that was replaced at the time. The display wall with the artistic horse frescoes in the complex also dates from the time of Fischer von Erlach and was designed by him. Today's frescoes are by Franz Anton Ebner .
Sigmundstor
Court war councilor Guidobald Franz Freiherr von Hegi approached Max Gandolf in 1676 and suggested cutting through the Mönchsberg at the narrowest point. The piercing should finance itself through the sale of cuboids. This should enable increased tax revenue, the relocation of fire-hazardous businesses should be possible, new living space should be created and, last but not least, a simple defense of the Riedenburg should be ensured and the defense of the city and fortress improved. From 1676 to 1687 (Max Gandolf's death) a quarry was therefore operated near the court stable and the mountain was excavated 35 meters wide. Archbishop Sigismund von Schrattenbach took up the old idea again. However, a commission subsequently advocated the construction of a tunnel. Hofbauverwalter Wolfgang Hagenauer should implement the plan revised by Hagenauer. The mountain was pierced in 1765 and opened in 1766. The plan provided for the facades on both sides to be designed by Hagenauer in an appealing way and to be implemented in Riedenburg as an outbuilding in the form of a park of ruins. After Sigismund's death in 1772, the park could no longer be built. Until the late 19th century, the Sigmundstor was protected by a kennel, which could be closed with a stick gate (i.e. with palisades).
Remains of old fortifications away from the fortress
see also: Fortifications of the City of Salzburg
From the time of the first city fortifications (around 1280):
- Remains of the city wall in old town houses (not accessible; for example in the basement of the town hall or in the treasury)
- The Red Tower (today Freyschlössl) and the Abts or Lambergturm on Mönchsberg (both heavily changed today) and other defense towers on Mönchsberg ( Richterhöhe ).
- Defense walls at Nonnberg Monastery and Nonnbergtor (city gate)
From the time of the 2nd city fortifications (around 1465–1480):
- The vigilante group on Mönchsberg , an eight-tower part of the city wall with a double wall and attached battlements (via Sigmundstor), here in 2005/2006 first restoration work under the direction of Rüdiger Schobersberger
- The remains of the Erentrudistor in the cellar of the house at Schanzlgasse 14 (state kindergarten), expanded under Paris Lodron, but a few years later it was left as a city gate.
From the time of the 3rd city fortifications (around 1620–1648, the time of the Thirty Years War):
- the Müllner Schanze as a three-tier weir system with Augustiner gate and Monika gate and closest to the Gstätten-Kavalier (Humboldt terrace). The front weir ditch is now filled in and severely affected by a new serpentine road.
- the continuous line of defensive walls and carved rocks of the Mönchsberg (older in the first system) with defensive towers of the Lodron Zwinger of today's Richterhöhe
- The "cat" (older in the first system)
- a remains of the city wall on Rudolfskai on both sides of the former Michaelstore,
- a remains of the city wall in Basteigasse
- The Gstättentor (1618, first installation 1280)
- The Klausentor (1612, first installation around 1280)
Important historical streets and squares
Cathedral Square with the Marian column
The square in front of the cathedral facade, which is closed on all sides, is connected by arcades, the “cathedral arches” built by Giovanni Antonio Darios with Residenzplatz and Kapitelplatz, as well as with other arcades with Franziskanergasse. On the south side, the convent wing of the St. Peter monastery connects, on the north side the old residence.
From 1776 to 1771 Wolfgang Hagenauer and Johann Baptist Hagenauer from Blei erected a statue of Maria Immaculata enthroned on a cloud mountain and a globe, which is surrounded on four sides by an allegorical figure (angel, devil, truth and church). On the base walls there are busts and coats of arms of the builder, Archbishop Sigmund Graf Schrattenbach and other allegorical representations. Tables explain the connection between the figures. The statue of the Virgin Mary is crowned in the view from the arcades of the Franziskanergasse with the crown which was attached earlier and which is carried by two angels on the cathedral facade.
Every year since 1920 the performances of Jedermann by Hugo von Hofmannsthal have taken place on the cathedral square in front of the cathedral facade as part of the Salzburg Festival .
Residenzplatz with Residenzbrunnen
The Residenzplatz (in its current size) was created by razing town houses and removing the old cathedral cemetery by Archbishop Wolf Dietrich and is a representative, splendid forecourt of the Prince Archbishop's residence. It is bordered to the west by the old residence, to the east by the new residence with the artistic carillon and to the south by the cathedral. In the north, in a closed facade, town houses are connected, the core of which goes back to medieval buildings.
The Residenzbrunnen is a monumental fountain, the largest Baroque fountain in Central Europe, which was probably designed by Tommaso di Garona between 1656 and 1661 on behalf of Archbishop Guidobald von Thun . The lower fountain basin on all-round step-like plinths is symmetrical on four sides and has a curved and kinked baroque shape. A central rock on top is surrounded by four water-spouting sea rots. The rock carries four naked athletic men with another shallow bowl of water in which three dolphins hold a shallow pool of water. This uppermost basin carries Triton , which pushes water vertically into the air from a Triton snail .
Kapitelplatz with Kapitelschwemme
The spacious square looks to the south to the cathedral, to the east to the Dompropstei and the Archbishop's Palace and to the south to the fortress and the Kapitelschwemme. This is followed by the Kardinal Schwarzenberghaus, the cathedral chapter and the mill yard of the St. Peter monastery. To the west of the square is the novitiate wing of St. Peter's Abbey.
The Kapitelschwemme is a marble horse pond and dates from the 17th century in the complex (once with the winged horse Pegasus ). It was rebuilt in 1732 under Archbishop Firmian . In the middle, the sea god Neptune appears with a trident and crown on a water-spouting sea horse. The sculpture comes from Josef Anton Pfaffinger .
The old Herrengasse (formerly Hundsgasse) runs at the foot of the slope between Kapitelplatz and the Festungsberg .
Mozartplatz and Waagplatz
Mozartplatz is a representative rectangular square in front of the Neue Residenz, which was created by demolishing various town houses under Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau. House 4 is the former city palace of the Rehlingen family. This is followed by the low Imhofstöckl, built in 1620. The houses at Mozartplatz 8-10 with their uniform facade are former canonical houses from the 17th century. House 9 bears the coat of arms of Sigismund von Schrattenbach. When the Mozart statue was erected under Mozartplatz, a large mosaic of Archeloos with an athlete battle picture was recovered. In the middle of the square stands the monument to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart on a high plinth, which was created in 1842 by Ludwig Schwanthaler and cast by Johann Baptist Stiglmaier .
The small Waagplatz adjoining to the northwest is an irregular square that originally served as the oldest market square and court square. The house at Waagplatz 1 became a courthouse after 1328 and later a city drink room. The town houses there are essentially from the Middle Ages. The Waaghaus (Waagpl. 3) was a court building before 1328, the current building dates from the 17th century.
Old market with Floriani fountain
The old trading center was laid out according to plan in the early Middle Ages (13th century). The milk market and herb market, the beet and herb market and the potato market once connected to this urban marketplace. Today it consists of stately rows of town houses, the core of which mostly dates back to the Middle Ages, but which are often overprinted by the early modern era.
In the middle of the old market is the market fountain, which was documented to replace an old draw well in 1488, when water could be directed from the Gaisberg over the city bridge to the old market for the first time. The eight-sided fountain basin that has been preserved was made between 1685 and 1687 and is surrounded by two marble steps. It has acanthus-adorned corner pillars and rosettes as well as a delicate spiral grille that is placed on the water basin and was created by Wolf Guppenberger in 1583. The fountain column as well as the wrought iron grille as the city fountain bears the coat of arms of the city of Salzburg. The statue at the top of the fountain column represents Saint Florian and was created by Josef Anton Pfaffinger in 1734 .
Next to the fountain with Saint Florian, the Floriani celebration of the voluntary fire brigade of the state capital Salzburg is held every year (swearing-in, promotions, awards).
Getreidegasse, Griesgasse, Gstättengasse and Ursulinenplatz
Getreidegasse is a famous shopping street. Its character also results from the numerous wrought-iron guild signs. The Getreidegasse and the Gstättengasse were already an important traffic route to the north and west to today's Bavaria in Roman times. In the Middle Ages the street was first mentioned in 1150 as "Trabegasse". (The word derives from the trotting of the horses, not the grain). The lively Getreidegasse was cleaned once a week in the Middle Ages by briefly flooding the alley with alpine canal water, which washed out the alley. The Getreidegasse owes its fame above all to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who was born here.
Separated by various through houses, the Griesgasse runs parallel to the Getreidegasse on the side of the salt axis, the name of which is reminiscent of the Salzachgriess, the coarse sand in the river bed of the Salzach on which this alley was gradually piled up.
Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse, Judengasse and Goldgasse
→ Main articles: Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse , Kranzlmarkt and Rathausplatz , Judengasse and Goldgasse
The Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse leads from the Getreidegasse south to the Franciscan Church and the Franziskanergasse. To the west, on the other hand, visitors come from Getreidegasse via the Alter Markt to Judengasse, where the majority of Salzburg's Jews lived in the Middle Ages (before around 1400). From the Alter Markt (or through a short stretch of Brodgasse), visitors can continue to the nearby Goldgasse, where a number of master goldsmiths once practiced their craft.
The Kaiviertel
The Kaigassenviertel developed along the former main road from the Domplatz via the Kajetanerplatz via the Erentrudistor (later Kajetanertor) to Hallein and Berchtesgaden. The alley is made up of several medieval streets and was gradually built up from the 12th century. The winding street also results from a Roman temple complex (consecrated to the gods Asclepios, Hygieia and Cybele) which once stood between today's streets Kaigasse and Krotachgasse. The protruding house no. 4 emerged from the former Salvatorkirche, the house no. 20 (corner of Herrengasse) from the former Nicolaikirche.
The home of the composer and organist Paul Hofhaimer can be found in Pfeifergasse . Even Paracelsus lived here for several years. The Papagenoplatz there was created by heavy bomb hits in 1944. Today there is a pretty fountain there, which was created in 1960 by the Salzburg sculptor Hilde Heger . The “ Chiemseehof ”, formerly the seat of the Chiemsee bishops, is now the seat of the Salzburg state government.
Historic cemeteries and gardens
Petersfriedhof
This cemetery is the oldest Christian burial place in Salzburg, along with the cemetery of Nonnberg Abbey. It was already used as a burial place in post-Roman times. Due to its location at the foot of the fortress hill and its picturesque terrain, the Petersfriedhof was a preferred subject of painting and poetry of the 19th century. In St. Peter's cemetery there are so-called " catacombs " carved into the mountain . They were not used as a burial place and are probably of late antique origin. The Gertraudenkapelle and the Maximuskapelle can be found here.
Botanical garden (Furtwänglergarten)
Up until the 16th century there was a large garden with an extensive orchard and vegetable patches, called the St. Peter's Women's Garden or Frohngarten. It served essential agricultural purposes and extended from the houses on Getreidegasse and today's Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse to the Klausentor. Under Prince Archbishop Paris Count Lodron (an academic grammar school had been established as early as 1617), the Benedictine University was built in 1622 in the area of this garden under the main direction of the St. Peter Abbey. From 1632 to 1820 the green area was used as a college garden for the university. The Kollegienkirche was built in the Baumgarten from 1694 to 1707 according to plans by Fischer von Erlach, but the reduced Baumgarten remained in place for a long time. After the college garden was closed in 1780, the Salzburg merchant and plant collector Franz Anton Ranfftl maintained a private botanical garden until 1820 and traded in his plant seed exchange. Between 1820 and 1941 the garden was again a botanical garden. In 1835 it became officially the kk botanical garden of the medical and surgical educational institute. The custodians operated the facility until 1941. In the post-war years, today's public park was finally built, which was renamed Wilhelm-Furtwängler-Garten in 1954 in posthumous tribute to the services of the great conductor Wilhelm Furtwängler (1886–1954) . A special feature are the large ginkgo tree and the teardrop pine , both planted around 1850 and relics of the old botanical garden.
Old monasteries
The monastery communities in the old town that no longer exist are primarily the monastery of the cathedral women, the St. Peter's women (today used by the Franciscans ) and the monastery of the Theatines (Kajetans).
The Benedictine Archabbey of Saint Peter
The monastery of St. Peter is the oldest existing monastery in the German-speaking area, which was founded or renewed around 696 (according to house tradition 582) and is likely to build on a monastery community that has existed since late antiquity. The monastery was originally located in the area of today's Kapitelplatz. The first abbots of the monastery were also bishops ( Rupert , Vitalis , Flobrigis , Johannes , Virgil , Adalram , Liupram , Adalwin ) and archbishops ( Theotmar , Pilgrim I. , Adalbert II. , Egilolf , Herold , Friedrich , Hartwig ). The main task of the monastery and the abbot-bishop , besides pastoral care, was the (Slavic) mission. Towards the end of the 9th century, the Benedictine rule established itself in the monastery as the basis of the order. In 987 the monastery and the archbishopric were separated from each other and the previous community of property was abolished. With this step, the monastery facilities were also moved to their current location a few years later.
In the Middle Ages, the monastery with the influential St. Peter's School and the scriptorium (creation of valuable handwritten books) had diverse and important cultural tasks. Abbot Johann von Staupitz , who was a lifelong friend of Martin Luther , is the best-known and probably most important abbot of the monastery, who also played a significant role in the preparations for the foundation of the Benedictine University. He is buried in the Catherine's Chapel of the monastery. From 1924 to 1926 the Collegium Benedictinum was built under Archabbot Klotz according to designs by Peter Berens. The monastery was expropriated from 1939 to 1945 and most of the monks were expelled from the monastery from 1942 to 1945.
The St. Peter Abbey has an important collection of paintings and sculptures and, above all, valuable books and documents. The fraternity book of the monastery is the oldest surviving document in what is now Austria.
Benedictine women's monastery Nonnberg
Around 715 Rupert founded the Benedictine monastery Nonnberg on the Nonnberg, which is today the world's oldest permanent women's monastery. The monastery was once wealthy: in the early Middle Ages, he also owned the Nonntal, whose church was formerly a branch church of the monastery, and the area between Salzach and Leopoldskroner Moor in the south of the city.
The first monastery church burned down around 1006. A new monastery church was completed in 1009 with the help of Heinrich II . From this time the mighty church tower, portal parts and under the "paradise" with its frescoes are preserved. Mostly destroyed by a fire in 1423, the monastery church was rebuilt between 1464 and 1509 based on the old building rights (late Gothic building). The central Gothic glass window behind the altar (1480), donated by the then mayor Augustin Clanner, the late Gothic altar (with neo-Gothic accessories) from the branch church Scheffau / Lammer. The monastery houses an important collection of medieval manuscripts, Gothic figures and paintings (especially late Gothic altars). The “Faldistorium” (a folding chair for the abbess, created after 1100 with figural reliefs and figures made of walrus bone) and the ivory pastoral from 1242 are particularly noteworthy.
The Franciscan Monastery
After the monastery of St. Peter's Women was abolished in 1583, the monastery there stood empty. Archbishop coadjutor Georg von Kuenburg then called the Franciscans to Salzburg at the beginning of the Counter Reformation (for the “inner mission” in 1587 and for pastoral care). The founding fathers came from various Bavarian monasteries. Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau handed over the old parish church, which has since been called the Franciscan Church, to the newly dedicated monastery in 1592 as a new religious order. Since then the Franciscans have been active in pastoral care as an order in the city.
The current monastery building is connected to the Franciscan Church by an archway. The monastery building, which is very simple according to the basic idea of the order, essentially found its present form with the renovation from 1686 to 1689. In addition to Rottmayr's paintings, the monastery also has a valuable library.
One of the most famous members of the Order is Father Peter Singer , the inventor of the Panharmonium . This panharmonium combines pianino and harmonium, the registers of which imitate the instruments of the symphony orchestra in their respective vocal ranges. A small museum in the monastery is a reminder of the versatile friar.
literature
- Lieselotte v. Eltz-Hoffmann: Salzburg fountain. Publication series “Kulturgut der Heimat”. Salzburg City Association, Salzburg 1979.
- Lieselotte v. Eltz-Hoffmann: The churches of Salzburg. Pustet, Salzburg 1993, ISBN 3-7025-0308-0 .
- Heinz Dopsch, Robert Hoffmann: History of the City of Salzburg. Pustet, Salzburg 1976, ISBN 3-7025-0340-4 .
- Monikas Oberhammer: Pustets monastery guide. Pustet, Salzburg 1998, ISBN 3-7025-0374-9 .
- Bernd Euler, Ronald Gobiet, Horst Huber: Dehio Salzburg - City and Country. Schroll, Vienna 1986, ISBN 3-7031-0599-2 .
- Norbert Hierl-Deronco: Theatrum Equorum Salisburgensium, steeds, riders, buildings of the baroque and the Colloredo period. Krailling 2007, ISBN 978-3-929884-11-1 .
Web links
- Entry on the UNESCO World Heritage Center website ( English and French ).
- Website of the city of Salzburg
- Platform of the Salzburg region
- Salzburg website
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Districts: Aigen | ( Old Town (left) | Old Town (right) | Elisabeth-Vorstadt | Gneiss | Gneiss South | Gnigl | Itzling | Schlachthofsiedlung | Kasern | Langwied | Lehen | Leopoldskron-Moos | Liefering | Maxglan | Kendlersiedlung | Morzg | Mülln | Neustadt | Nonntal | Parsch | Riedenburg | Salzburg-Süd | Schallmoos | Taxham . Landscapes: Hellbrunn | Gaisberg | Heuberg
Coordinates: 47 ° 48 ' N , 13 ° 2' E