Old Town (Düsseldorf)

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Coat of arms of the state capital Düsseldorf
Old town

district of the state capital Düsseldorf
Coat of arms of the state capital Duesseldorf.svg
Location in the city area
Basic data
Geographic location : 51 ° 14 ′  N , 6 ° 46 ′  E Coordinates: 51 ° 14 ′  N , 6 ° 46 ′  E
Height: 38  m above sea  level
Surface: 0.47 km²
Residents: 2,244 (December 31, 2016)
Population density : 4,774 inhabitants per km²
District: District 1
District number: 011
Transport links
Bundesstrasse : B1
Light rail : U 70 U 71 U 72 U 73 U 74 U 75 U 76 U 77 U 78 U 79 U 83
Express bus: SB 50
Bus route: 726 780 782 785
Night traffic: NE 3 NE 4 NE 5 NE 7 805 817

The old town is the second smallest of the 50 Düsseldorf districts in terms of area and is located in district 1 on the Rhine. 2244 inhabitants live here on an area of ​​0.47 km². The population density is 4774 inhabitants / km².

The old town is the historical, political and cultural center of the state capital. In the district are u. a. the town hall , the North Rhine-Westphalia art collection and the Düsseldorf Art Academy . Large parts of the old town are pedestrian zones with numerous shops and restaurants. Over 300 pubs, discos and restaurants are concentrated in half a square kilometer, and they have earned the old town the reputation of being the “longest bar in the world” , which is sung in the “ Altbierlied ”. The front of the old town to the Rhine forms the Rhine promenade . To the northeast, the old town is bounded by the Hofgarten , to the south it merges into the Carlstadt , to the east into the city center .

history

Düsseldorf with castle, 1288

The old town is the nucleus of the city of Düsseldorf, although there are older districts in today's urban area. In a deed from 1159, Pope Urban IV confirmed to the monastery of St. Ursula in Cologne that an income from “Dusseldorp” of five shillings (coin) would be paid. In another undated document before 1190, the knight Arnold von Tyvern pledged his entire extensive property on the right bank of the Rhine for 100 silver marks to Count Engelbert von Berg . The property concerned the nobleman's heritage with properties in Holthausen, near Wald, Monheim, an der Anger, Dusseldorp and Hummelgis . Presumably, a Sahlhof also belonged to this property , which was located in the area of ​​the later castle. The pledge was not redeemed and was therefore the property of the Counts of Berg. In the middle of the 13th century, the small town already had a certain importance as a ferry and trading base between the two banks of the Rhine. After the Battle of Worringen , Düsseldorf was granted city rights on August 14, 1288.

At the time of the town elevation in 1288, only a few streets and alleys existed. In a Düsseldorf city sketch for 1288 and the area between the banks of the Rhine, the eastern city limits and Düssel with the forerunner of the castle of the counts and later dukes of Berg in the southwest , a street, the old town , and three alleys are drawn. In addition to Liefergasse, at that time still called Leven- or Löwengasse , there were only two other streets that were roughly in the area of ​​today's Lambertusstrasse and Müller-Schlösser-Gasse . Further indications, and according to some historians, indicate that in the open space in the sketch between the walls and the buildings, Krämerstrasse was already present, although at that time it was only built on on its east side. This street led from the south gate or the forerunner of a castle gate to the beginning of the old town . The Lindentrappenpforte , the later coal gate through which one got to the Rhine, is said to have been located there. There is some evidence that this second street actually existed, as access to the castle gate or the city from the south gate should not only have been via a small alley.

The place was well protected by its location between three natural bodies of water. In the west lay the Rhine, in the south the Düssel, in the north an arm of the old Rhine and in the east there was a water-filled ditch as an artificial protective device. In addition, earth walls were presumably present. The total area within the city wall was only 3.8 hectares and the length of the wall was almost 800 m. Only two stone houses and 300 to 400 inhabitants are estimated for 1300.

Whether a reference from 1260 already referred to a castle of the Counts von Berg in Düsseldorf or only to a fortified Sahlhof cannot be clearly clarified. However, stones with stonemason's marks were found in the area of ​​the foundations, which were common in the Lower Rhine region around 1150. However, there is no further evidence of a building in the later construction area of ​​the castle, which was built in the 12th century. As recently as 1246, in an agreement brokered by the Archbishop of Cologne Engelbert I von Berg between Irmgard von Berg , the mother, and her son Adolf IV von Berg , a castle in Düsseldorf was not mentioned. In contrast, various Bergische castles were divided up between Irmgard and Adolf IV in this agreement , and Düsseldorf also belonged to the area assigned to the mother. Construction work on the castle or its predecessor can be traced back to 1350. The first documentary evidence of a castle dates from 1386 and concerned a negotiation between the Archbishop of Cologne and Duke Wilhelm II.

The further history of the old town is largely identical to the history of Düsseldorf for many centuries .

Development of the old town

View from the south of Düsseldorf Castle and its surroundings, the harbor entrance with crane and parts of Carlstadt , etching by Lovro Janša, late 18th century

General

The term "old town" is mainly used in Düsseldorf not only for the current district of the old town , but also for the younger district of Carlstadt . These are summarized in the area between the ramp for the Oberkasseler Bridge in the north, the area up to the Schwanenspiegel in the south and Heinrich-Heine-Allee and its extension, Breite Straße, in the east. This area was largely the area that lay within the fortifications until they were demolished. Currently these are the two districts of Altstadt and Carlstadt in district 1, along with others . In the following historical development of these two parts of the city, the western boundary, the Rhine, is not mentioned. Briefly summarized, the development of this urban area from the elevation to the city proceeded as follows:

  • The perimeter of the city at the time Düsseldorf became a city in 1288 consisted of the area between Krämerstraße , Altestadt , Liefergasse , a small lane in the area of ​​the church and the Düssel , which was protected by moats and walls fed by the Düssel brook . The first city enlargement followed from 1384 to 1394 with the suburb in the east, the area on today's Ratinger Strasse and the southern areas with the Neustadt up to Flinger Strasse and the extended Neustadt between Flinger Strasse and Wallstrasse. In the east these areas were bounded by Mühlengasse and Neustraße. The urban area now reached was largely identical to the Altstadt district . The following expansions are mainly located in Carlstadt .
  • With the construction of the citadel, the city area was enlarged again in the south from the first half of the 16th century and its urban development and development began around the middle of the following century.
  • Around 1780 a further expansion followed by moving the fortifications in the southeast of the city forward. The Carlstadt was built in the area of ​​the former, now abandoned, old sections of the fortifications . After all fortifications had been razed at the beginning of the 19th century, Carlstadt had to make minor expansions in the southern area.

Below is a more detailed description of the development of the two districts from the beginning of settlement in the old town area to the present.

Until 1384

Düsseldorf 1288 (cropped) .jpg

The rule of the Counts and later Dukes of Berg was of great importance for the development of the old town for centuries . After this noble family died out, this also applied to the legal successors.

Little is known of old buildings that existed before and at the time of the city charter. The first documented mention of a city gate comes from September 13, 1322. This was probably the Liebfrauentor at the end of the old town . This is the name of the predecessor of the later Ratinger Tor , which was laid out as part of the first city expansion after 1384. In front of the gate was a Lady Chapel , the "Liebfrauenkapelle" , which is said to have existed as early as 950. In the area of ​​the chapel there was land that belonged to the Lords of Eller before the 14th century . In addition to the chapel to take care of the pilgrims, they had built a hostel in which the sick were sometimes treated. In the chapel there was a statue of “Our Lady of Heaven” , which triggered annual pilgrimages across the region and has been kept in St. Lambertus Church since 1811 .

Another small chapel, the forerunner of the St. Lambertus Church , was located at the later Stiftplatz and can be traced back to 1159. At that time, Düsseldorf was still part of the Bilk parish . It was not until 1206 that the separation and formation of an independent parish for Düsseldorf took place. The chapel was expanded to become the court church of the Counts of Berg by 1209. A building in Liefergasse, which currently shows in the gable as being built in 1288, was named in 1396 by Duke Wilhelm von Jülich as “our house, that's called the Lewenhaus . It is one of the few stone houses that existed as early as the 13th century.

After the city charter was granted, further development was initially quite slow. Free area within the city limits with the earth walls in front was built on as much as possible. Due to a lack of space, buildings were later erected in front of the city gates. This particularly affected the area in front of the first Ratinger Tor , the then "Liebfrauen Thor" . A small suburb developed here. An important obstacle to city expansion was that the Counts of Berg did not own any land, especially in the southeastern area in front of the city. The Haick von Vlingern family owned extensive estates east of Liebfrauen Thor . But it was not until 1335 that they recognized Count Reinold von Geldern as their feudal lord for these areas. It was not until Wilhelm II von Berg who succeeded in acquiring these lands as property in exchange for land in Mündelheim in 1383 .

After the middle of the 14th century, under Wilhelm II von Berg , a period of increasing development began for Düsseldorf. The domain of the Counts of Berg had meanwhile been enlarged to the north by obtaining sovereignty over the rule of Ravenstein in 1397. The city was no longer on the north-western edge of the county of Berg as it was at the beginning. Wilhelm II, who chose Düsseldorf as his headquarters, was appointed Duke von Berg in 1380 . He expanded the castle into his residence. The cramped area within the first city wall hindered further development. The result was an enlargement of the urban area beyond the wall and the earth walls with the construction of a new city wall for an enlarged area. Not only the castle, but also the court church was enlarged and turned into St. Lambertus Church .

Around 1380 the bank of the Rhine in the area in front of the castle was regulated and a shipyard was established. Since the Rhine toll had also been moved from Duisburg to Düsseldorf at that time, a building was required for this. The so-called "Ederhaus" , a customs and warehouse at the beginning of Altestadt and Krämerstrasse, was built for this purpose. The powder tower , which exploded almost 300 years later, is said to have already been in this area of ​​the city wall.

After 1384

The expansion of the city after 1384 took place both to the east, in which a suburb had already formed in the extension of the Altestadt street , and to the south. Like the old core area, the new urban areas were also given a city wall for protection. For the levying of a Rhine toll in Düsseldorf from the end of the 14th century, the corner tower in the wall was extended to become a customs tower in the area of ​​the northern end of Krämerstrasse . After the later relocation of the customs collection further south to the area of ​​the Zollstrasse , this tower was used as a powder store and was the cause of a disaster during the Thirty Years' War .

In an illustration for the city in the 15th century, the following new city areas are shown in addition to the old city center: the already mentioned suburb in the east, a new town between Düssel and Flinger Straße and an extended new town between Flinger Straße and Wallstraße, which was laid out from 1394 .

Sculpture with the city wall around 1450, left side: Neustadt separated by the Düssel from Altestadt with suburb (right)

The expansion of the urban area with the new fortifications was carried out as quickly as the financial means allowed. For financial relief, for example, the citizens of the southern urban expansion were allowed to levy a tax on carts with merchandise in this urban area. For the construction and maintenance of the paved paths and bridges, with the permission of Duke Wilhelm von Berg, this tax could be levied on vehicles passing through from 1395.

The new city gate Berger Pforte was mentioned in a document as early as 1396, two years after construction began on the extended new town . The Flinger Gate followed in 1408. A total of five new gates were built in the course of the city's expansion. In addition to the two listed, these were:

The Lindentrappenpforte in the area of Krämerstraße and Altestadt remained and was a sixth city gate that can be documented for 1394. In the 1580s during the Cologne War , the gate was locked for security reasons. Only in 1609 was the gate reopened at the express request of the city, which had applied for permission from both the Elector of Brandenburg and the Duke of Pfalz-Neuburg.

Whether the gate, later called the coal gate, was just a change of name in the same place or whether a new, simpler gate was built in the city wall is a matter of dispute among historians. Since the north-western area of ​​the city wall in front of the Rhine was protected by a new bastion after the fortifications had been expanded, a heavily fortified Rhine gate was no longer necessary after its construction. In his book On the History of Düsseldorf , H. Ritter listed only 5 city gates without the coal gate. In addition to these general city gates, the castle also had a door that led directly to the Rheinwerft in the area north of the customs gate.

The city wall of the originally oldest city area was not immediately torn down and leveled after the city expansion, but remained in place, including the Liebfrauentor at the eastern end of the old town . Both this old gate and the new Ratinger gate were still in operation in 1462 .

By the expansion resulting three-city areas, the old core area , the suburb in the extension of the road Old City and in the south the New Town with its enlargement to Wall Street , initially had their own separate administration with a mayor and a community center . Around 1427 the city council presumably met in the old customs house on Krämerstrasse. From around 1470 the mayor and the city council resided in Ratinger Straße 6 . Since this house was sold by the city in 1500, the city council had to move to the market square. A house was probably bought there in 1545 for an extension.

Of the three urban areas, only two had a church or chapel, while there was none in the new town. With the support of Duke Wilhelm I , construction of another church began around 1396 in the southern “Neustadt” area. This was on a piece of land that was at the end of Bolkerstrasse in front of Hund (s) rückenstrasse and that was made available by the Duke. This church is documented for 1417, but before 1435 it was demolished again. Presumably the construction of the church had not been completely finished by the time it was demolished.

With the expansion, many of today's old town streets were laid out in the enlarged urban area. The most important and well-known are: Bergerstraße , Bolkerstraße , Flinger Straße , Kurz Straße with Andreasstraße , Markt with Marktstraße , Mühlengasse with Mühlenstraße and Ratinger Straße . The new larger streets laid out at that time are still there today, even though Commisariatsstraße was renamed Akademiestraße after 1738 and the spelling of Hun (d) sückenstraße changed to without "d".

The small Rintgesort bastion and some houses between the banks of the Rhine and the new city wall were located between the castle and the southern mouth of the Düssel . This bank area was called Rheinort and was important for fishermen and Rhine shipping. A floating crane for loading and unloading the cargo ships can be verified here as early as 1450. This was replaced in 1598 by a stationary crane attached to a brick tower on the banks of the Rhine. The large tower with crane, depicted on many old drawings and paintings of Düsseldorf in the bank area, was used for cargo shipping until the 19th century.

In 1424 the number of buildings subject to interest was 48 in the Old City area , 25 in the suburbs and 76 in the New City . The urban area was not yet densely built up at that time. Between the buildings there was still agricultural land until around the middle of the 16th century.

At the beginning of the 15th century, the expansion of the city roughly corresponded to that of today's old town . The number of inhabitants was estimated at around 3000 by the end of the 16th century. With the expansion of the old town and the increase in residents, the need for churches increased. These were mostly erected together with the buildings as monastery churches in the course of the settlement of monasteries. The following churches were rebuilt in the 15th to the beginning of the 17th century:

  • In 1399 the Marienkapelle on Ratinger Straße was renovated and in 1443 it was handed over to the Order of the Cross by Duke Gerhard . The adjoining inn was part of the donation, as the order was to take care of it. From 1443 to 1445 the order built a new two-aisled church, the Kreuzherrenkirche , and the monastery buildings above the chapel . An elementary school for boys, the Kreuzbrüderschule , was also founded.
  • around 1621 the monastery church of the Ursulines on Ritterstraße with the monastery buildings and the first girls' school in the city
  • 1621–1624 construction of the monastery church and monastery building of the Capuchins on Flinger Straße, which were demolished after 1803; The church and buildings were located on lots 23–31. The church was St. Dedicated to Magdalena. In 1639 a chapel for the dead was built next to the church. The monastery buildings were expanded in 1641 and 1649. Like the costs for building the church, those for the monastery buildings were largely financed from the ducal treasury.
  • 1622–1629 Construction of St. Andrew's Church by the Jesuits in the area at the end of Andreasstrasse and in front of the current Kay-und-Lore-Lorentz-Platz

Already in the document for the town elevation of 1288 two goods with the name "The two mountains" were mentioned. Whether this with the two manors , "The big Düsselstrand Stone" and "Isselstein" not conclusive, are identical. The buildings of these two goods located within the second city wall can be documented until the 18th century and were located in the area from the beginning of Mittelstrasse to Wallstrasse . On a map for June 28, 1758, farmed areas are shown both in front of Ratinger and in front of Flinger Tor .

Old town hall after construction

Since the duchies of Jülich-Kleve-Berg had been united since 1521 , there was a need for additional buildings in Düsseldorf as the royal seat of the dukes for additional staff. In the 16th century, the city ​​palace was magnificently expanded under Wilhelm the Rich from 1549–51 . Before that, especially due to the fires of 1492 and 1510 and the subsequent simpler extensions, it was no longer in a representative condition. The Duke also ordered that all new buildings in the city, provided they were on the street, could only be built of stone for fire protection reasons. Furthermore, the roofs had to be covered with clay pans instead of straw.

In 1545 the first grammar school in the city was founded in a building made available by the duke on Stiftplatz. During the reign of Wilhelm the Rich , 1570–1573, the first part of today's Düsseldorf City Hall with a red brick facade was built. For the new building, the older building bought by the city in 1545 was replaced after 1567. In October 1570, the mayor and the city council commissioned master Heinrich Tuschmann from Duisburg with the masonry work for the New Town Hall. Another contract followed with Tuschmann in March 1572, in which he was commissioned with all further construction work for the completion of the building. Since the city had limited funds for the construction of the building, the Duke was asked several times in writing to help finance the construction in both 1571 and 1572. This new building, today's “Old Town Hall”, was the “first wing” to which two more “wings” were added later. At that time, the town hall bordered on the west of a building in which the "Electoral Chancellery" was located. Both buildings were later combined to form the current old wing .

Düsseldorf around 1600

The fortifications were further strengthened and in 1538 the construction of the citadel in the southwest of the city fortifications began. The citadel is already drawn in a city sketch for this period, but the position of the moat in front of the fortifications largely corresponds to the original arrangement. The moats, with the exception of the new ones in the direct area of ​​the citadel, ran from the Rhine over the later Bergerhafen, the Maxplatz, the current northern development of the Carlsplatz, crossed the area of ​​today's Mittelstrasse and then the Grabenstrasse and city bridge to the city moat. With the exception of the port area, all of these trenches were filled up to the city ​​moat and new ones were built south and east of the citadel. The area within the city walls in the southwest of the city was enlarged by the citadel. A further expansion to a fortress town was carried out in the period of the Jülich-Klever succession dispute around 1614 under Duke Wolfgang Wilhelm . In the course of these changes, Mittelstrasse and Grabenstrasse were also created on top of the filled old moat.

The historic Bergerhafen, which lay between the Rhine and Hafenstrasse , was created in 1620 as part of the work on the citadel and the changes to the moats in front of the fortifications. The construction of the citadel was not completed until 1620. With the completion of the citadel, the old Berger gate , which had already been walled up during the Cologne War in 1585, was demolished and replaced by the newly built Berger Tor at the end of Citadellstrasse . In addition to Citadellstrasse, Hafenstrasse and Schulstrasse were also built in the first half of the 17th century . Settlement of this new city area did not begin until 1641.

After 1648

Fortress plan from 1759
City area with defenses in 1764

From the second half of the 17th century to the end of the 18th century, especially during the residence time of the Dukes Philipp Wilhelm and Jan Wellem in Düsseldorf, the northern and southern parts of the old town were expanded to accommodate the increasing population. For 1658 the number of buildings within the city walls was given as 648.

In the northern part of the city, Ritterstrasse and Ursulinengasse were newly laid out. The Rhine Gate was rebuilt and with the Schaesberg Bastion and to the east of it the Elisabeth-Augusta Bastion, new protective works were built in front of the northern city walls there. The old city wall between the old town and the new bastions was demolished and on the resulting open space the Reuther barracks and armory built. In the Ratinger and Flinger Tor area, the fortifications Bastion Friedericus (mill bastion ) and Bastion Maria Franziska (Flinger bastion) were newly laid out with a ravelin in between .

In the area of ​​the citadel, the older part of Dammstrasse was built on the western city wall between Schulstrasse and Bäckerstrasse .

A major expansion of the city including a new city palace was planned under Jan Wellem . However, neither was carried out because on the one hand the financial means were lacking and on the other hand the duke died relatively early. However, the construction of new buildings for the administration of the Electoral Palatinate began in the last few years of the government. Because of the citadel, the city wall on Commisariatstrasse, which was between Rheintor and Hafenstrasse, was no longer necessary. The wall was torn down and the Hondheimsche Palais , a double building, was erected on its area between 1709 and 1713/14 .

The secret chamber chancellery, the General War Commissariat and the Electoral Palatinate Mint were initially housed in this building. In the middle of the 18th century, the Baron von Hondheim (also spelled Hontheim or Hundheim) owned the palace and from 1773/77 it was again the Electoral Palatinate. The part of the building in the area of ​​the Rhine Gate was used as a prison from 1752 and the part on Hafenstrasse as an art academy from 1783. The latter use was the reason for the renaming of the adjacent street to Akademiestraße.

In the southeast in front of the old town and its fortifications, a second front defense area was added. Within the resulting new area in front of the previous ramparts, a larger barracks area was created with an infantry barracks built in 1735. From 1707 to 1709, new buildings were erected in this area for the "Hospital of St. Anna" on Flinger Strasse . Since the Hubertus Order, founded by Duke Gerhard von Berg in 1444 and reactivated by Jan Wellem , provided financial support for the hospital, the name of the new building was changed to Hubertus Hospital . A small chapel belonging to this hospital was extended to the Church of St. Anna by 1735 . By building barracks, the “billeting”, which was very unpopular with the city's residents, was no longer necessary during the chaos of war. Access to this new defensive area with barracks, which was in front of the old moat and city wall that was still in existence at that time, was only possible from the city via a "barracks bridge", which was later called "city bridge". In the area of ​​the new south-eastern city wall, another new city gate, called the Benrath Gate , was created for the entry and exit to this new city area .

Jan Wellem's successors , the dukes Karl Philipp and Carl Theodor , no longer had their residence in Düsseldorf, but in Mannheim . Nevertheless, extensive changes took place in the city , especially under Duke Carl Theodor . From 1755 the city palace was extensively restored. Also during the reign of this duke, the fortifications were expanded and the enclosed city area in the southern area was considerably enlarged. The wall and ramparts of the old city fortifications in the area of Wallstrasse were razed in 1787. On September 7th of the same year, additional plots of land were offered for purchase in an announcement made by the Duke. The buildings had to be built within three years and the foundations and basement had to be completed by "before the end of Julius 1788" . By 1791, 86 houses had been built.

The properties belonged to the area that was in the area of ​​the former Berger and Flinger bastion. The Carlstadt was created there, which was laid out on the area of ​​the fortifications demolished in this area. It is therefore not part of the historic old town, even if most people in Düsseldorf include it as part of the “old town”. The area between Schulstrasse and Bäckerstrasse , which was inside the citadel, belonged to the city area before the last extension of the fortifications and was already built on. It belongs to the older part, but is still counted as Carlstadt . In addition to Carlsplatz , the following better-known streets were newly laid out in Carlstadt: Bastionstrasse , Bilker Strasse , Hohe Strasse and Kasernenstrasse . Mittelstrasse was rebuilt in 1788 to connect Carlstadt, and some buildings of the Capuchin monastery in the area of Flinger Strasse were demolished for this purpose.

City area after the creation of Carlstadt in 1796

Due to the expansion and additional development, the need for churches continued to increase during this period. The following new churches were built:

  • 1649 Construction of the Cellitinnen monastery with monastery church on Hunsückenstrasse .
  • from 1655 construction of the St. Antonius Church , a small monastery church and a monastery for the Franciscans , opposite the corner of Hafenstrasse and Schulstrasse . The church quickly became too small and was rebuilt from 1734–1737 into the current town church and enlarged with the monastery. On July 16, 1805, this church was renamed St. Maximilian Church by decree of the Elector , generally referred to as Max Church .
  • 1701 Construction of the monastery and church of the Cölestinerinnen on Ratinger Straße, these were badly damaged by artillery fire in the city in 1794 and later demolished with the exception of part of the facade along with the monastery buildings.
  • 1712–1716 the Joseph Chapel was built on the Altestadt ; at the same time, new larger monastery buildings were built for the Carmelite monastery ; from 1831 the buildings of the former monastery were used for the Theresien Hospital .
  • In 1735 the church of St. Anna of the electoral Hubertusspital was inaugurated in the area of ​​the new barracks area between the first and second defense area. The hospital for the treatment of sick civilians was later relocated to the Hubertus-Stift in Neustadt and the previous area of ​​nursing for the military was converted into a garrison hospital. In 1770 the church was assigned to the barracks there as the garrison church of St. When the area on Kasernenstrasse was redesigned in 1906, the church was also demolished.

In addition to these Catholic churches, a church was also built for the minority of Protestant Christians (Lutherans and Reformed) in the old town. These had to be laid out in backyards according to the regulations of the time in the duchy. A census from 1658 showed how small the proportion of non-Catholics in the population was in the middle of the 17th century. At that time, 13,848 Catholic, 707 Reformed and 213 Lutheran Christians lived in the city. There were built:

  • 1683–1687 both the Berger Church in the Berger Strasse and Wallstrasse area , as well as the Neander Church between Bolkerstrasse and Andreasstrasse
  • The Old Synagogue on Kasernenstrasse , inaugurated in 1792, was the first synagogue to be built in the old town . This was in the Carlstadt .

Since the electors no longer had their residence in Düsseldorf after Jan Wellem , a few changes were made. In the second half of the 18th century, from 1760 to 1766, a new stables and residence for the governors of the electors were built on Mühlenstrasse . Various buildings, including the old opera house and the dilapidated old stables, were demolished for this purpose. While the royal stables, the castle and some buildings burned down as early as 1794 due to a brief bombardment of the city, the residence was only demolished at the beginning of the 20th century.

In the area of ​​today's market square, a comedy house was built next to the Grupellohaus as a replacement for the old opera house from 1746–1747 . Due to the expansion of the city to include the new "Carlstadt" in the southeast, the need arose to connect this area of ​​the city to the surrounding area through an additional gate for access and exit. To the east of Bergertor, another city gate, the “Benrather Tor” , was newly laid out, through which the southern areas in the direction of Benrath could be reached.

From 1800

The plan of the city of Düsseldorf and its immediate surroundings shows the old town and Carlstadt at the beginning of the 19th century after the fortifications had been razed and the redesign of parks and promenades based on the scheme of the English landscape garden began .
Representation of the first planned city extensions in the 19th century: building and leveling plan for the expansion of the city of Düsseldorf , 1854
Rhine bank front of the old town at the time when construction began on the Oberkasseler Bridge , around 1896
View from the north-west of the old town in front of the Rhine bank advance 1898–1902: Old Düsseldorf , painting by Erich Nikutowski, around 1900
View from the north of the old town after the advance of the banks of the Rhine, postcard after 1900
Düsseldorf in a city map from 1903: The old town is only one part of the city ​​in the large city booming through industrialization , which saw itself as the “ desk of the Ruhr area ”.

In the Peace of Lunéville in 1801, it was contractually agreed that the fortifications demolished in the First Coalition War could not be restored. Elector Maximilian Joseph commissioned a commission with the razing and redesign of these areas. In the course of the redevelopment that began, the city wall and the two city gates on Flinger- der Ratinger Strasse were demolished. As a replacement for the Ratinger Gate , however, the new current gate was rebuilt further east from 1811. In addition to the Zolltor , the Berger Tor also stopped for the time being. The latter was demolished in 1895 to improve the traffic situation. The customs gate followed in 1901 when space was needed for the construction of the new Rhine promenade. With the demolition of walls, ramparts and gates from the beginning of the 19th century, the city was opened to the surrounding area and the connection to the already partially built-up and adjacent current districts of Pempelfort , Stadtmitte , Friedrichstadt and Unterbilk , if Carlstadt is included in the old town , manufactured.

The fortifications enclosed the old town including Carlstadt and thus did not belong to its urban area. Large parts of the north-western and central fortifications were redesigned into park areas and merged with the existing city park between Schloss Jägerhof and the Ratinger Tor area to form the current courtyard garden . The Ratinger Tor was demolished and today's gate of the same name was built in the extension of Ratinger Straße. The barracks with parade ground that already existed in the southeastern part were renovated and heavily used during the French era . After the razing, parts of the southern area were initially a wasteland for a long time, the so-called “tile hole” , for example, was part of it, before this part was also developed for urban development from around the middle of the 19th century.

New streets were only created for the old town in the area of ​​the fortifications, insofar as these had a connection to the old streets of the old town. These were Heinrich-Heine-Allee and Breite Strasse , but at that time only up to Benrather Strasse . A new bridge was built over the moat in 1807 to connect the eastern urban areas with the old city center. This led to the Carlstadt via Benrather Strasse.

A new and larger port, the security port, was built north of the old town in the French period from 1811 . It had space for fifty ships. The Bergerhafen , which had previously assumed this security function, was no longer required for this. It was now mainly used as a sales point for fruit and potatoes. This food was delivered on "Oberländischen-Nachen" and offered for purchase "ex ship".

After the general plan for the changes after the demolition of the defenses had been approved by the Prussian government in 1831, the Berger harbor was separated from the Rhine by a dam and filled in. The Dammstrasse , which previously began on Schulstrasse, could thus be extended to Rheinstrasse.

Because Düsseldorf no longer had residence functions after 1813, there was no growth impetus at the beginning of the 19th century. The city belonged to the "District of Düsseldorf" from 1820 to 1872 and was no longer an independent city during this period.

The approval granted by the Prussian Ministry of Finance to re-establish a “free port” on the banks of the Rhine between the stationary Rhine crane and the castle area led to a significant improvement in the city's economic situation. For this purpose, the necessary infrastructure with warehouse and pier area was set up between the Rheintor and Bergerhafen in 1834.

With the beginning of the industrialization of Germany in the middle of the 19th century, a wide variety of new opportunities arose for the further development of Düsseldorf. These mainly concerned the adjoining districts, but also their connection to the old town. On the city expansion plan of 1854, the old town can be seen as an independent district alongside Carlstadt, Pempelfort , Neustadt and Friedrichstadt .

After the fire in the city palace in 1872 , the ruins were acquired by the city of Düsseldorf in 1882. After that, the remains of the castle including the south wing that had not burned down were leveled by 1892 and the castle square was enlarged. Only the castle tower was not affected by the demolition and is still one of the city's landmarks today.

During the expansion of the old town north of Rittergasse, several new streets were built in front of the new security harbor in the 19th century. From 1875–1879 the art academy was built on Eiskellerstrasse . This building was the replacement for the Royal Prussian Art Academy, which was housed in the Düsseldorf Palace until the fire in 1872 . The art academy founded by Elector Karl Theodor in 1769 as the Electoral Palatinate Academy, the nucleus of the Düsseldorf School of Painting , was given its own representative domicile.

By 1884, the city master builder Westhofen built the so-called New Town Hall . This component was located on the west side of the market square next to the Grupellohaus on the site of the former comedy house . The latter was built in 1746/47 and demolished in 1882.

In order to open the old town to the Rhine, the houses on the west side of Krämerstrasse with the ramp for the former coal gate were partially demolished in 1896–1897. This was followed by the Rhine bank advancement 1898–1900. This enabled the Rhine embankment promenade including the riverside road with upstream and lower-lying Rheinwerft to be created from 1899–1902 . The older part of Dammstrasse from Schulstrasse was renamed after the Rheinuferpromenade was laid out and now belonged to the Rathausufer . Furthermore, new buildings for administration and company headquarters as well as high-quality residential and rental houses were built on the Rhine front from the old town. The Düsselschlösschen , a well-known wine bar up to the Second World War , was also built between Rheinwerft and Uferstraße at this time.

After the demolition of palaces and residential buildings on Mühlenstrasse, the district and regional court was rebuilt in this area in 1913 . The former Mühlenplatz with an old mill was first converted to Paradeplatz and in the 19th century to Friedrichsplatz with the Alte Kunsthalle, which was built from 1878 to 1881 .

Due to the increasing prosperity from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the First World War , many houses in the old town were extensively modernized and expanded or replaced by magnificent new buildings. The first large department stores , the Hartoch department store , built in 1896, the Tietz department store , built in 1907–1909 and the Carsch house , built in 1913–1915, were also built in or on the edge of the old town. After the World War, the Wilhelm-Marx-Haus was the first high-rise to be built from 1922 to 1924 , on the edge of the old town. This reinforced concrete structure with a steel frame was probably the first such structure in Europe and is still one of the city's landmarks today.

After 1945

A view of Düsseldorf's old town during the flight of the
Rhine on August 10, 1953 shows the old town that was marked by air raids during World War II.

During the Second World War , many buildings in the old town were also destroyed by air raids . After the war, these buildings were often rebuilt at their old location and with a historical facade. In addition, many areas for building with the associated streets and squares in the old town were also greatly changed. In particular, the traffic routing on the edge of the old town was adapted to modern car traffic and later some streets in the core area were converted into pedestrian zones. This particularly affected the following sections:

  • Area on the banks of the Rhine with adaptation to car traffic. From 1990 this above-ground and heavily used road was relocated to a Rhine bank tunnel, completion at the end of 1993; By shifting car traffic into the tunnel, the old town was again freely accessible to passers-by via the new Rhine promenade .
  • The area between the castle tower and the beginning of the old town is currently called Emilie-Schneider-Platz ; Of the Krämerstrasse , which was one of the oldest in the city, only a few buildings on the former eastern side of the street were rebuilt and the building line was shifted to the east; they now partially belong to the Stiftplatz , as this has been changed in the northwest area up to the Rhine embankment promenade ; Krämerstrasse is no longer there and has been repealed
  • Untere Rheinwerft with the end of port operations in the 1960s, dismantling of the loading facilities and conversion of the northern area into a party mile with open restaurants and cafes.
  • Area in the Friedrichsplatz area , now Grabbe-Platz, with the demolition of the Alte Kunsthalle and the new buildings for the Museum K 20 and Neue Kunsthalle and the new Kay-und-Lore-Lorentz-Platz
  • New creation of Schneider-Wibbel-Gasse between Bolkerstrasse and Flinger Strasse, formerly the passage of the Hartoch department store
  • between the old location of the Carschhaus / end of Flinger Straße / end of Wallstraße and Grabbestraße with a modified road layout adapted to car traffic
  • Dammstrasse / Schulstrasse / Rheinort / Rheinstrasse with the new construction of the historic Bergerhafen without a connection to the Rhine; this area was completely changed compared to the period up to 1945 and the Dammstraße became superfluous and repealed
  • Heinrich-Heine-Allee with enlargement of the street area for car traffic and a new underground underground station
  • Extension of the district and regional court to Ratinger Strasse
  • In many areas of the old town, original residential and commercial buildings were converted into beer bars, snack bars and restaurants from the early 1960s. The so-called "longest bar in the world" was created .
  • In the 1970s there was a widespread dispute over expansion plans of the Mannesmann Group, to which some Art Nouveau houses on Berger Allee fell victim

From the end of the 20th century

Towards the end of the 20th century, another phase of renovation and new building began for Düsseldorf, which also affected the old town and is currently still affecting. These changes are the result of the relocation of official and municipal buildings from the old town to other city districts, the demolition of old smaller buildings for the purpose of building new, modern building complexes and the enlargement of the K20 museum.

View from Burgplatz to the old town
Bolkerstrasse
Equestrian statue of Jan Wellems
Christmas Market

Due to the relocation of official and municipal facilities, old buildings became vacant, the further use, conversion or new construction of which has not yet been completed. This applies, for example, to the building areas of "Theresienhospital" on the Altestadt , which was closed as a hospital in 1977 and converted into luxury apartments from late autumn 2011 to the beginning of 2014, the old " town house " and the " district and regional court " on Mühlenstrasse, as well as the " Employment Office ”on Fritz-Römer-Straße. The area between Grabbe-Platz and Ratinger Straße was redesigned at the beginning of the 21st century with the expansion of Museum K20 and the new building complexes Ratinger Straße No. 19/21, 23 and 25 .

Since August 2012, all buildings north of the old district and regional court between Liefergasse and Neubrückstrasse to Ratinger Strasse have been demolished. Only one part of the building adjoining the old courthouse with an additional part of the facade up to about the middle of Liefergasse was excluded from the demolition. This also applies to the facade of the former Palais Spinrath , Ratinger Straße 15, which was also preserved because of its monument protection. Under the name "Andreasquartier", a real estate investor erected new buildings with 267 luxury apartments with underground garages and a parking area in the inner courtyard. In addition , 102 “serviced apartments” were set up in the converted former local and regional court, which is now called Hyatt-Haus Düsseldorf . With a six-month delay, on October 11, 2017, with a "Grand Opening", the facility opened and began to live in.

The old town house was also rebuilt from the beginning of the 2010s. The Düsseldorf memorial was retained in the new building complex and the new Hotel Medici was built and has been in operation since March 2015. The former school building at Lambertusstraße 1, last used by the city as an administrative office (auditing office), was infested with the sponge, was sold by the city and converted into luxurious new apartments by 2016.

The old town today

Although the old town only makes up 0.23% of the city's area, important city administration institutions, cultural institutions such as the North Rhine-Westphalia art collection , the art gallery , the art association , the art academy and the Kom (m) ödchen as well as numerous church institutions are located here . With the exception of the town hall, these facilities are located in the northern part of the old town. In the central part of the old town, especially in the area of Bolkerstrasse and the surrounding streets and alleys, are most of the numerous pubs and restaurants, which are a great attraction for locals and tourists.

The old town is also a popular shopping area. With the Carsch-Haus , the district has a luxury department store. In addition to various well-known retail chains, there are numerous shops and boutiques that offer non-everyday goods. The Flingerstraße is one of the busiest shopping streets in Germany and has a high chain stores on. The street, designed as a pedestrian zone, primarily appeals to a young audience.

With the construction of the Rheinufertunnel in 1993, a three-kilometer-long promenade was created along the Rhine, which is an attraction for pedestrians, skaters and cyclists. In the area of ​​the old town from Burgplatz there are numerous restaurants in front of the casemates of the former shipyards, supplemented by further catering facilities on permanently on-site Rhine ships.

At the beginning of June 2016, the media reported that the police had prevented a terrorist attack in Düsseldorf's old town, in which 10 terrorists from the Islamic terrorist organization IS were supposed to be active. At the end of June 2016, these reports were initially put into perspective and treated as misinformation, but it was later confirmed that the IS actually had concrete plans to attack the old town of Düsseldorf.

Attractions

Heinrich Heine's birthplace, Bolkerstraße 53 in Düsseldorf

The art collection of North Rhine-Westphalia is of supraregional importance . The density of bars and restaurants, many of them with outdoor catering facing the street, give rise to a Mediterranean flair, especially on summer weekends. The historic restaurants and breweries are also worth seeing. The castle tower can be visited, it houses the Maritime Museum (Düsseldorf) , which depicts the history of navigation on the Rhine since Roman times. The Düsseldorf Memorial on Mühlenstrasse is also a municipal museum (see the list of museums in Düsseldorf ).

Probably the oldest building in the historic city center is the St. Lambertus basilica , whose history is documented until 1159 and which was completed in 1394. It is a three-aisled basilica in Rhenish brick Gothic . On the other hand, only the castle tower on Burgplatz remains of the ducal castle . It is home to the Maritime Museum. The town hall of Düsseldorf was built by Heinrich Tussmann from 1570 to 1573 and then underwent several extensions and changes. The equestrian statue of Jan Wellem is located directly in front of it on the historic market square . The tomb of Jan Wellems, on the other hand, is located in the mausoleum of St. Andrew's Church .

Heinrich Heine's birthplace can also be found in the old town, although it only stands on the site of the demolished house in which the poet was born. In the northern old town there is the St. Ursula High School , which has a very long tradition as a school of the Order of the Ursulines.

Towards the Rhine, the old town merges into the Rhine bank promenade , under which the Rhine bank tunnel is located.

In addition to the art collection of North Rhine-Westphalia , the Kunsthalle Düsseldorf is also located directly opposite in the Altstadt district, near Heinrich-Heine-Allee, at the southern end of which you can find Germany's first high-rise office building, the Wilhelm-Marx-Haus .

Historic restaurants

Probably the most famous Düsseldorf bar is the Hausbrauerei Zum Uerige not far from the banks of the Rhine. On the other hand, the brewery in Füchschen , where Joseph Beuys was a frequently seen guest, is the meeting point for the art scene at the nearby art academy . The longest-lasting tradition, on the other hand, certainly has “ En de Canon ”. The history of the Schumacher brewery goes back to 1838 and is known for its particularly bitter beer. Other important pubs in the old town are:

panorama

Düsseldorf, the Rhine panorama of the old town

Individual evidence

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  2. ^ A b Düsseldorfer Geschichtsverein: Festschrift for the 600th anniversary. 1888, p. [370] 353. Digitized edition of the ULB Düsseldorf
  3. ^ Theodor Joseph Lacomblet, in: Document book for the history of the Lower Rhine and the Archbishopric of Cöln, document 521 , 1858, part 4, p. [380] 364. Online edition 2009 [1]
  4. ^ Karl Leopold Strauven, in: History of the Castle in Düsseldorf, pp. 4–7.
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  97. Markus Kompa: Terror Theater for Secret Service Laws? Telepolis, July 2, 2016, accessed the same day.
  98. Attack plans of the IS terror cell more concrete than expected , report of the daily newspaper Rheinische Post on January 20, 2017, accessed on January 20, 2017

Remarks

  1. To the document - the date is given as 1189 - Lacomblet also states that as early as 1174 an Arnold von Tyvern was listed as a guarantor in the document 448 under the specified Bergisch knighthood.
  2. The previous assumption that only earth walls and moats were present is now disputed by recent finds. According to the RP of July 16, 2012, remains of the first city wall were found in the area of ​​Liefergasse and Lambertusstrasse. However, it cannot be clearly proven whether the wall already existed in 1288.
  3. Because of this failure to give a castle , some historians assume that no castle existed in 1246. Others suspect that this castle was already owned by the widow. Therefore it should not have been mentioned in the comparison.
  4. In Theodor Joseph Lacomblets document book for the history of the Lower Rhine and the Archbishopric of Cöln, document 846 , 1846, part 2, 1201–1300, p. [539] 501, this scope is given for the place under the notes on the copy of the town census document. Online edition 2009 [4]
  5. In ancient writings, the statue, Mary with child, is mainly given as a "picture".
  6. This assumption is controversial as it cannot be clearly proven in a document. E. Wisplinghoff mentions in Hugo Weidenhaupt's Volume 1 on the history of Düsseldorf, 2nd edition from 1990, that St. Ursula in Cologne could also have been the mother church.
  7. Probably only the forerunner, the Lindentrappenpforte, was a real city gate.
  8. In Volume 1 of the history of Düsseldorf by Hugo Weidenhaupt, page 194, a reconstruction is shown in which there is another building to the east of the new building, which was later demolished. Presumably this house was used as town hall from 1500 after the move.
  9. With the Duke's death in 1408, the main proponent of this church could no longer support its continued existence positively. Presumably the sponsors of the collegiate church also saw competition in this other church. Since there was also a lack of money due to the lost war, they did not want to raise any more money for the new church.
  10. ^ Lords of the Cross, also called Brothers of the Cross
  11. According to H. Ferber, the Kreuzherrenkirche was built as early as 1400, but this is not true according to the specified document.
  12. The map shows in detail the city with the plan for the bombardment during the Seven Years' War.
  13. also written “Karlstadt” in older publications
  14. Since there are entries from 1700 in a baptismal register of the church in the NRW archive in Augustusburg, a church of St. Anna must have existed before 1735.
  15. Since, for example, the new safety harbor, which was only built in 1811, is shown in the plan, the current situation of January 1st, 1809 - as indicated on the drawing date - is not shown!

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