Chiavenna

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Chiavenna
coat of arms
Chiavenna (Italy)
Chiavenna
Country Italy
region Lombardy
province Sondrio  (SO)
Coordinates 46 ° 19 ′  N , 9 ° 24 ′  E Coordinates: 46 ° 19 ′ 0 ″  N , 9 ° 24 ′ 0 ″  E
height 333  m slm
surface 11 km²
Residents 7,330 (Dec 31, 2019)
Population density 666 inhabitants / km²
Factions Campedello, Loreto, Pianazzola, San Carlo
Post Code 23022
prefix 0343
ISTAT number 014018
Popular name Chiavennaschi
Patron saint San Lorenzo ( August 10th )
Website www.comune.chiavenna.so.it
Chiavenna 1.JPG
Chiavenna commune in the province of Sondrio

Chiavenna ( Latin and Romansh Clavenna ? / I , Lombard : Ciavéna, German : Cläven, Cleven or Kleven ) is an Italian municipality ( comune ) with 7,330 inhabitants (as of December 31, 2019) in the province of Sondrio , which belongs to the Lombardy region . Audio file / audio sample

Chiavenna is known today for the historic city center and its restaurants. It is a member of Cittàslow , a movement founded in Italy in 1999 to slow down and improve the quality of life in the city.

geography

Chiavenna on the Mera

Chiavenna, through which the Mera flows, is around 17 km north of Lake Como . The Liro flows from the San Giacomo valley and joins the Mera at Chiavenna.

The municipal area includes the mountain slopes on both sides of the valley with Pizzo Parandone in the north and Alp Mondate in the south. The mountain villages of Pianazzola and Uschione are near Cleven.

Valchiavenna

Chiavenna is the center of the Valchiavenna, which consists of the lower Bergell (to Castasegna ), the Val San Giacomo and the actual Val Chiavenna (south of Chiavenna to Pian di Spagna).

Embedding in surrounding areas

In Chiavenna, the valley road branches into two Alpine crossings that were already used by the Romans . One leads north through the Valle San Giacomo over the Splügen Pass to Chur ; this pass road was opened in 1822. The other leads first to the east through the Bergell (Val Bregaglia) and then branches: the route used by the Romans led from Casaccia at the foot of the last ascent of the Malojapass over the Septimerpass (until today only one mule track) to Bivio on the Julier route. On the other hand, the route over the Malojapass and then on over the Julierpass to Chur and through the Engadine has been developed as a road. Chiavenna's largest neighboring communities are Piuro and Prata Camportaccio . With these two places Chiavenna forms a settlement area of ​​around 12,000 inhabitants.

The northern terminus of the Colico – Chiavenna railway operated by Rete Ferroviaria Italiana is located in Chiavenna .

history

Roman times

Clavenna, as Chiavenna was called in Roman times, was conquered by Augustus ' troops in 16 BC . From there the Romans built two roads over the Alps, over the Splügen and Septimer passes, to Chur . Until the late antiquity Chiavenna belonged to the province Gallia Transpadana , then it was within the realm of reform Diocletian to 295 n. Chr. Province Liguria et Aemilia allocated. Like the neighboring province of Raetia , it remained part of the Dioecesis Italiae or the Dioecesis Italiae Annonariae .

middle Ages

Together with the Valtellina and Raetia, Chiavenna became part of the Ostrogoth Empire after the end of the Roman Empire . After 552, the Eastern Roman Empire took over rule, which was only ended by the Lombards in the 7th century . In the 770s, the entire region fell to the Franconian Empire . The East Franconian King Otto I drew the border between the Diocese of Como and the Diocese of Chur near Villa near Chiavenna around 960 , whereby the Bergell fell to Chur and Chiavenna to Como. Otto was probably staying in the city himself in 961 when he crossed the Septimer Pass to Rome for the imperial coronation.

In 1030 Chiavenna received city rights from the Bishop of Como. In the dispute between the consuls of Chiavenna and the bishop, Emperor Friedrich I decided at the Ulm Court Conference in 1157 that Chiavenna was an imperial fiefdom and that it was subject to the Duchy of Swabia. In 1176 the alleged kneeling of Emperor Friedrich I (Barbarossa) before his cousin Heinrich the Lion is said to have taken place here. In 1178 troops of the Chur bishop advanced across the Alps to Plurs and claimed Chiavenna for themselves from 1194. The place was part of the Duchy of Swabia until beyond the Staufer period .

In 1335 the Valtellina passed to the Visconti in Milan , who acquired the Contado of Chiavenna from the Chur bishop. During the 15th century, Chiavenna was the feudal area of ​​the Balbiani from Varenna . Triggered by an appeal by Pope Innocent VIII, an army from Graubünden fought the Sforza in 1486 , which had replaced the Visconti, and they set Chiavenna on fire. Ludwig the Mohr , Duke of Milan, came to the rescue and had fortification walls built around Chiavenna and other centers of the Valtellina from 1488 to 1492. In the Milan Wars , from 1512 to 1531, the Three Leagues under Conrad von Planta succeeded in conquering Cläven together with Bormio (Worms) and the Valtellina (Valtellina) as a common subject area . First the castle was destroyed, and then agriculture was expanded so that the population could increase.

reformation

From 1542 a Protestant congregation was formed in Chiavenna under the teacher Francesco Negri and the theologian and reformer Agostino Mainardi , who had fled from Milan and who was in close contact with the Zurich reformer Heinrich Bullinger and under the protection of the Lords of Salis . Many evangelical refugees from Italy who were persecuted by the Catholic Inquisition came to Valtellina because religious freedom had been in effect here since 1526. Quite a few joined the new Reformed Church, which at times made up a third of the population. The refugees also included rationalists , Unitarians, and Anabaptists , which led to further clashes, disputes, and divisions. So the Italian teacher and anti-Trinitarian Baptist Camillo Renato came to Chiavenna, who represented special doctrines, wanted the Lord's Supper to be understood only as a reminder and was excluded in 1550. In 1554 the reformer Bernardino Ochino was a preacher, and from 1563–1567 the reformer Girolamo Zanchi was pastor in the city. After the Edict of Ilanz of 1557, Reformed worship was introduced in three churches in the city. The reformer Locarnos and Misox Giovanni Beccaria stayed here from 1561–1571.

The city of Chiavenna increasingly became a stopover for the textile and food trade from Venice and Bergamo to Zurich and vice versa. The Pestalozzi patrician family with their contacts in Zurich and religious refugees from Locarno played an essential role in this.

Since the Veltliner murder of Protestants in 1620, the Catholics were able to assert themselves again within the framework of the Counter Reformation . Landsknechte brought the plague to the area in 1629 . From 1639, according to the Milan capitulate, non-Catholics were no longer allowed to stay in Chiavenna. Then the city churches were rebuilt and two monasteries were founded.

18th century

In 1715 Austria replaced the Spaniards in the Duchy of Milan. In 1762 the duchy signed a treaty with Graubünden, which contained the secret article that Protestants should be given the freedom of settlement.

The Chiavenna valleys became part of the Cisalpine Republic in 1797 and then of the Regno d'Italia, founded in 1802 under Eugène de Beauharnais .

Austrian Lombardy

After the fall of Napoleon I, Chiavenna became part of Austrian Lombardy (Regno Lombardo-Veneto) from 1815 to 1859. The construction of the new road over the Splügen Pass lasted from 1818 to 1822. A little later, the industrial development began with beer breweries and cotton mills. In 1835 there were ten shipping companies in Chiavenna. During the Austrian period schools were built in every village and schooling was also compulsory for girls: the Lombard subjects of the Austrian monarchy were thus the first literate Italian women, long before those in other Italian regions.

During this time a citizen from Cleven was able to study and do a doctorate in Innsbruck, Vienna, Prague and Budapest; he could become an officer in the Imperial Army or a civil servant in the Austrian administration; and his titles of nobility could be authenticated and confirmed.

20th century

In the 20th century, the typewriter manufacturer Industria Meccanica di Chiavenna SpA was located in Chiavenna. The company was struck from the commercial register in 2010.

etymology

The Italian linguists interpret the name Chiavenna from the Latin CLAVIS = key, which opens the access between north and south. That is a paretymology . The Latin CLAVIS describes a wooden rod that could lock a door from the inside and has nothing to do with the modern meaning "key" in the sense of opener / closer of locks. CLAV-ENNA contains the pre-Latin (not Celtic) etymon * KLAVA "Bergsturz, Geröllhalde". The town of CLAVENNA was built on the rubble hill that was left behind after the prehistoric landslide of Monte Conto. The Mera, the stormy river that flows through the city, also comes from the pre-Latin (not Celtic) * MARA, a river name that is often found in northern Italy and Ticino (such as the Mara, which plunges into Lake Lugano in Maroggia, Val Mara in Poschiavo , Locarno, Verzasca, Blenio). The Sufix -ENNA has nothing to do with Etruscan - as the Italian linguists claim - since numerous northern Italian settlements (VARENNA on the Komersee, SCARENNA; SESVENNA in Piedmont) and even (CLARENNA, Tabula Peutigeriana) in southern Swabia these pre-Latin Ligurian ones are most likely Wear suffix.

Attractions

The best known is the Castello, the old Palazzo Balbiani. Chiavenna has a monumental cemetery, narrow streets and alleys and several churches (San Lorenzo, Santa Maria, San Bertolomeo). An old town street ends at the Santa Maria archway . The Paradiso botanical garden invites you to take long walks, which are particularly charming in spring and which offer a beautiful view of the city from the high cliff. There is a 12th-century baptismal font in the cloister of San Lorenzo, and the Museum del Tesoro is nearby . There is a statue of Nepomuk on the Merabrücke.

In the surroundings of Chiavenna are the waterfalls of Borgonuovo. The natural landscape all around offers both botanical and zoological features. To the north of the city, you can visit some Ice Age glacial mills.

sons and daughters of the town

  • Agostino Mainardi (1482–1563), reformer and evangelical pastor 1542–1563 in Chiavenna
  • Bernardino Ochino (1487–1564), reformer, Protestant pastor, 1554 in Chiavenna
  • Francesco Negri (1500–1563), Italian Benedictine monk, humanist, teacher, writer and reformer
  • Johann Baptist Stoppa (* 1624 in Chiavenna, † 1692 in Steenkerke ), military, brigadier
  • Johannes de Clera 1168 and 1193, as mediator of the Comune di Chiavenna in the Cartario pagense di Chiavenna, ancestor of the Della Clara family (17th century)
  • Maurizio Quadrio (1800–1876), journalist, politician, freedom fighter
  • Francesco Stancaro (1501–1574), Italian humanist, physician, Hebraist, Unitarian theologian and reformer, stayed in Chiavenna as a religious refugee from 1542–1544 and 1547–1548
  • Giovanni Beccaria (1508–1580), reformer, Protestant pastor 1561–1571 in Chiavenna
  • Girolamo Zanchi (1516–1590), reformer, Protestant pastor 1563–1567 in Chiavenna
  • Francesco Mitta (1662–1721), baroque master builder, went to Northern Germany around 1690; a street in Chiavenna is named after him
  • Johann von Salis (Soglio) (born January 28, 1776 in Chiavenna, † August 23, 1855 in Modena ), Landammann of the Upper Bergell , Bündner Grand Council, Small Council, Chief Steward in the service of the Archduke of Austria-Este in Modena
  • Rudolf Maximilian von Salis Soglio (born February 5, 1785 in Chiavenna, † Mürz 16, 1847 in Chur ), Landammanndes Bergells-Unterporta
  • Giovanni Bertacchi (1869–1942), poet, Romanist , Italianist and literary scholar.
  • Clyde Geronimi (1901–1989), emigrated in 1908, animator and director at Walt Disney Studios
  • Ima Agustoni (1935–2017), actress and presenter
  • Guido Manusardi (* 1935), jazz pianist

Other personalities

  • Camillo Renato (Latinized: Camillius Siculus; around 1500–1575), a Franciscan, Catholic theologian, later Protestant teacher and anti-Trinitarian Anabaptist from Italy, who worked mainly in Chiavenna from 1547–1551.
  • Girolamo Zanchi (1516–1590), Reformed theologian, reformer and preacher in Chiavenna.
  • Francesco Robbiano (* around 1585 in Lugano ; † around 1620 there), priest, musician, organist and composer, 1605–1610 he was organist in Chiavenna

photos

  • Row of houses on the Mera

  • Archway 'Santa Maria'

  • Casa Pestalozzi

  • San Lorenzo

  • Cloister of San Lorenzo

  • Il Castello

  • Botanical Garden

  • graveyard

literature

Web links

Commons : Chiavenna  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wikisource: Cleven in the Topographia Helvetiae, Rhaetiae et Valesiae (Matthäus Merian)  - sources and full texts

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Statistiche demografiche ISTAT. Monthly population statistics of the Istituto Nazionale di Statistica , as of December 31 of 2019.
  2. ↑ Valchiavenna on ethorama.library.ethz.ch/de/node
  3. ↑ Hansmartin Schwarzmaier et al. (Ed.): Handbook of Baden-Württemberg History, Vol. 1, Klett-Cotta, 2002, pp. 451f.
  4. ↑ Hansmartin Schwarzmaier et al. (Ed.): Handbook of Baden-Württemberg History, Vol. 1. Klett-Cotta, 2002, p. 534.
  5. ^ Emidio Campi: Mainardi, Agostino. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . August 14, 2008 .
  6. ↑ Lukas Vischer: The Communion Difficulties in Chiavenna. Article in Bündner monthly newspaper, magazine for Bündner history, regional studies and building culture 1956, issue 8–9, pages 269–278
  7. ^ Conradin Bonorand: History of the Reformation in the former Bündner Unterlanden, especially in the Chiavenna area. Article in Bündner Monatsblatt, magazine for Bündner history, regional studies and building culture. Issue 1-2, 1979, pages 31 and 32
  8. ^ Emidio Campi: Beccaria, Giovanni .. In: Historisches Lexikon der Schweiz . May 2, 2002 .
  9. ^ Manfred Edwin Welti: Little History of the Italian Reformation, Volume 193, writings of the Association for Reformation History , Gütersloher Verlagshaus Gerd Mohn, Gütersloh 1985, digitized 2006 University of Michigan, ISBN 978-3-5790-1663-4 , pp. 91-134 : The exile
  10. ^ Leo Weisz : The economic importance of the Ticino religious refugees for German Switzerland. Report house, Zurich 1958, pages 165–170: The relationships between the Pestalozzi and the refugee families
  11. ↑ 450 years of the Reformation in Bergell. Article in the NZZ August 8, 2002
  12. ↑ Guido Scaramellini: Chiavenna. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . February 14, 2007 .
  13. ^ Robert Messenger: Engadine and Primavera portable typewriters: Spring Beauty and The Beast. Retrieved February 3, 2018 .
  14. ↑ Remo Bracchi: Chiavenna, città costruita sulla ganda . Clavenna XXX. 1991.
  15. ^ Franco Abis de 'Clari: Sull' etimologia del fiume Mera . Clavenna XXXIII (1994), pp. 245-258.
  16. ^ Adolf Collenberg: Johann Baptist Stoppa. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . July 20, 2012 , accessed February 22, 2020 .
  17. ↑ Cristina Maranta: Johann von Salis (Soglio). In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . January 12, 2012 , accessed April 19, 2020 .
  18. ↑ Jürg Simonett: Rudolf Maximilian von Salis (Soglio). In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . January 7, 2011 , accessed December 18, 2019 .
  19. ↑ Francesco Robbiano (Italian) on ricercamusica.ch/dizionario/ (accessed on: December 28, 2017.)
  20. ^ Carlo Piccardi (musicologist) : Francesco Robbiano. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . February 12, 2010 , accessed February 19, 2020 .