Rheinfels Castle

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Rheinfels Castle
Rheinfels Castle

Rheinfels Castle

Creation time : 1245
Castle type : Höhenburg, spur location
Conservation status: extensive remains
Standing position : Counts and Landgraves
Place: St. Goar
Geographical location 50 ° 9 '14.9 "  N , 7 ° 42' 15.9"  E Coordinates: 50 ° 9 '14.9 "  N , 7 ° 42' 15.9"  E
Rheinfels Castle (Rhineland-Palatinate)
Rheinfels Castle

The Rheinfels Castle is the ruin of a Spur castle on a ridge between the left bank of the Rhine and the Gründelbachtal above St. Goar area. After its expansion into a fortress, it was the largest defense system in the Middle Rhine Valley between Koblenz and Bingen and was only surpassed by the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress , which is located in the Middle Rhine Valley above the Koblenz district of the same name on the right bank of the Rhine. Rheinfels Castle has been part of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002 .

history

From its construction to the 18th century

Appearance of the castle around 1607
Rheinfels Castle around 1832, engraving after Tombleson
Rheinfels Castle and St. Goar around 1900

In 1245 the castle was built by Diether V von Katzenelnbogen as a customs castle for ships traveling up the Rhine. According to the only contemporary source, it is mentioned in the Worms annals in 1256 that Diether V broke the peace against Mainz citizens. The reason was probably the tariffs that have been levied for a long time . The subsequent siege by an army of the Rhenish League of Cities was unsuccessful; this gave the castle the reputation of being impregnable. The Hessian chronicler Wigand Gerstenberg further adorned the story in 1493, which cannot be proven by contemporary sources.

In the 13th century was Katzenelnbogen in the Upper County in the area around Darmstadt and in the Lower County shared the residence Rheinfels. Around 1360–1370, Count Wilhelm II von Katzenelnbogen (1332–1385) carried out a large-scale expansion of the inner castle. Further extensions concerned the women's shelter (now a museum) with a corner tower on the Rhine side and a stair tower on the courtyard side, as well as the mighty shield wall , flanked by two towers, a clock tower and a gunsmith's tower. In 1370 the count built Neukatzenelnbogen Castle, known as Katz Castle , on the opposite side of the Rhine . This made it possible to collect customs duties from ships going down the Rhine (St. Goar double duty ).

After the upper and lower counties were reunited in 1402, the residence remained at Rheinfels Castle. Under Count Johann IV and his son Philipp , court life reached its climax in the 15th century at Rheinfels Castle. According to more recent findings, the round keep was raised and topped up with a butter churn tower (see Marksburg ) only under Philipp . With a total height of 54 m, this was the highest known keep in a German castle and, on a clear day, you could see far into the Hunsrück and Taunus . Philip's sons Philip the Younger († 1453) and Eberhard († 1456) died early; so the county and castle fell to Landgrave Heinrich III in 1479 . von Hessen-Marburg , who was married to Anna, Philip's daughter. In a decade-long inheritance dispute with the House of Nassau , the landgrave was able to assert himself. With Heinrich's son Wilhelm III. His family died out and Rheinfels and Marburg fell to Wilhelm II of Hesse, who reunited the entire Landgraviate of Hesse in one hand.

Landgrave Philipp the Magnanimous of Hesse had the castle converted into a Renaissance palace. After his death it became the seat of the short-lived Landgraviate of Hesse-Rheinfels by way of the inheritance distribution among his sons . Landgrave Philip II of Hesse-Rheinfels (1541–1583) had the castle renovated and expanded. In the course of the Marburg succession dispute between the Landgraviates of Hesse-Kassel and Hesse-Darmstadt , the Lower Counties including Rheinfels Castle were awarded by the Imperial Court of Justice in 1623 to Hesse-Darmstadt. Landgrave Moritz von Hessen-Kassel , however, did not recognize the judgment. The rightful owners had to turn to the Imperial Court again. Ferdinand of Bavaria , Elector and Archbishop of Cologne , who was supposed to carry out the sentence, had the castle besieged in 1626, and after heavy fighting, Rheinfels was handed over to Hessen-Darmstadt on September 2, 1626 .

After Landgrave Georg II of Hessen-Darmstadt restored the castle, it was conquered again in 1647 by Hessen-Kassel. On April 14, 1648, the two Hessian counties concluded a settlement by which Rheinfels Castle and the city of St. Goar were divided between Hessen-Kassel and Hessen-Darmstadt. In 1649 Landgrave Ernst von Hessen-Rheinfels-Rotenburg , son from the second marriage of the former Landgrave Moritz von Hessen-Kassel, made Rheinfels his residence and expanded it from 1657–1674 into an extensive fortress that was directed against France . He founded the (second) younger branch line "Hessen-Rheinfels", (later Hessen-Rheinfels-Rotenburg ) of the landgrave house of Hessen-Kassel and resided on Rheinfels until 1692.

On a research trip through Germany, the Jesuits and Bollandists Godefridus Henschenius (1600–1682) and Daniel Papebroch (1628–1714) were invited to dinner by Landgrave Ernst I and his wife on Rheinfels on August 10, 1660. Papebroch writes about it:

“They hold court in a very strongly fortified castle on a very high mountain, which nevertheless offers comfortable living conditions, as far as we could see from the various rooms through which we were led. There is a very beautiful chapel in the castle with a gilded ceiling, more precisely a ceiling that is covered with gold inscriptions on a dark background; on the walls there are pictures of the passion story. Under the singing gallery you can see the coat of arms of the Landgrave with the following inscription: 'Ernst, the first return of his family to the Catholic Church, full of burning hope that many may follow him'. Then you saw his individual coats of arms, piece by piece, each with its motto underneath. The most remarkable verses were under a double cross, which is the coat of arms of the Hersfeld Abbey , which fell to the landgrave in the Peace of Westphalia ; they read: 'I involuntarily add this coat of arms to my coat of arms, because what is yours should be given to you crucified Jesus'. "

- Udo Kindermann : Art monuments between Antwerp and Trento: descriptions and evaluations by the Jesuit Daniel Papebroch from 1660; First edition, translation and commentary , Böhlau Verlag, Cologne, 2002, p. 61 u. 62, ISBN 3-412-16701-0

Landgrave Ernst, in constant financial difficulties, signed a secret contract with the French King Louis XIV , in which he promised to leave Rheinfels Castle to him in return for high pension payments. Landgrave Karl von Hessen-Kassel found out about this project in good time, took the castle in a jab and defended it against the French, besieged several times. The defense of the castle took place under Georg Ludwig (1655–1696) von Schlitz called von Görtz , major general in Hessen-Kassel . He was rewarded with a lifelong governorship.

Georg Ludwig von Schlitz called von Görz (1655–1696) major general in Hessen-Kassel, 1692 defender of Rheinfels

In the Palatine War of Succession (1688-1697), French troops under the leadership of Lieutenant-général Comte de Tallard undertook an attack on the fortress in December 1692, which failed due to the resistance of the occupation from Hesse-Kassel. The Comte de Tallard had promised King Louis XIV the keys to the Rheinfels fortress as a New Year's present. During a scouting ride on the Wackenberg in the company of his officers, he was hit by the bullet of the wood turner Johann Kretsch, a member of the rifle company for the defense of the city of St. Goar. As a post on the gallery of the collegiate church, he aimed his double hook (heavy rifle) at the one with the tallest plume. Despite the great distance of 200 m for rifles at the time, he hit his target, the bullet penetrated Tallard in the chest and came out of the side again. Known as foolhardy, Tallard had to resign severely injured; Maréchal de camp Thomas de Choisy took over the command . The siege came to a standstill, which probably helped to save the fortress. In the end there were 3,000 defenders against 28,000 French soldiers. 4,000 French died and 6,500 were wounded in two assault attempts; the defenders complained about 564 dead and 885 wounded. The second attack was also repulsed, and when the relief army approached on January 3, 1693 , the French withdrew under the leadership of Landgrave Karl von Hessen-Kassel , consisting of Palatinate, Brandenburg, Münster and four Hessian regiments .

Landgrave Karl tried in vain to incline the German Kaiser to his wishes for permanent possession of Rheinfels Castle. He found allies in England and the Netherlands. When these two countries made peace with France in Utrecht in 1713 , the peace treaty also included the provision that Hessen-Kassel was allowed to keep Rheinfels Castle and the city of Sankt Goar. The descendants of Landgrave Ernst I. von Hessen-Rheinfels-Rotenburg insisted on the return due to a judgment of the emperor of 1711. After a legal dispute, the Landgrave von Hessen-Kassel transferred the castle to a grandson of Ernst von Hessen-Rheinfels-Rotenburg, the Landgrave Wilhelm the Younger of Hessen-Wanfried , who was now called Wilhelm von Hessen-Rheinfels . Hessen-Kassel was granted occupation rights to the castle in the event of war.

After the death of Wilhelm von Hessen-Rheinfels in 1731, his half-brother Christian von Hessen-Wanfried , who called himself Christian von Hessen-Eschwege after moving the Landgrave's residence to Eschwege, took over the Landgraviate of Rheinfels with the castle. When the troops attacked again in 1734 under the leadership of the French Freikorpsführer Kleinholz with 200 dragoons and 800 men, Rheinfels Castle was again handed over to Hessen-Kassel. In a house contract from 1735, Hessen-Eschwege-Wanfried finally renounced the occupation rights of the castle and finally ceded them to Hessen-Kassel.

In 1755 Christian von Hessen-Eschwege-Wanfried died as the last descendant of the Hessian branch line Hessen-Wanfried and the Landgraviates of Hessen-Eschwege and Hessen-Rheinfels with St. Goar and Rheinfels Castle fell to Hessen-Rotenburg according to the house contract and remained there with interruptions until 1815.

Rheinfels Castle, 2004
Rheinfels Castle from the Rhine
Rheinfels Castle from St. Goarshausen

When French troops occupied the castle during the Seven Years' War (1756–1763), the defense against its more modern defense techniques was no longer successful; Rheinfels was surrendered without a fight.

French revolutionary troops in November 1794

Major General Philipp Valentin von Resius, an old man of 77 years, was in command of the fortress. The fortress itself was well stocked and the crew of 3,000 men was sufficient, not counting the crews of the neighboring gun batteries on the surrounding hills. The accident took its course on November 1, 1794 ( All Saints' Day ): On the news of a French drummer that a siege army of 30,000 men ( Armée de la Moselle ) was already ready to attack, the commander and the entire crew went headlessly over a hasty one built a bridge on the other side of the Rhine. The withdrawal of the crew was so hasty that the outposts waited in vain for their replacement and the French troops under the command of Général de division Jean René Moreaux found the half-set tables for their last meal in the fortress on November 2nd. Due to the evacuation of his fortress without a fight, the landgrave sentenced the commandant to death, this sentence was later commuted to life imprisonment after the removal of all titles and dignities. Resius was imprisoned in Spangenberg until his death in 1798 at the age of 80 freed him from captivity.

The French revolutionary troops destroyed the fortress: in 1796 the upstream fortifications were blown up, in 1797 the castle and keep. In 1812 the ruins were sold as French state property to the St. Goar merchant Peter Glass. Most of the material recovered from the demolition was used in the construction of the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress near Koblenz .

From 1815 until today

In 1815 Victor Amadeus of Hessen-Rotenburg , the last Landgrave of Hessen-Rotenburg , ceded the areas on the Rhine (St. Goar and Rheinfels) to Prussia and received the principalities of Ratibor and Corvey as compensation .

Rheinfels Castle, 1938

After the ruins had been used as a quarry for some time, Prince Wilhelm of Prussia bought them in 1843 , who later became Kaiser Wilhelm I, who saved them from further destruction. The town of St. Goar has owned the castle since 1925. The municipality carried out restorations in 1963/64 and in the 1990s.

Spelling of names

In the course of its history, the castle has been mentioned many times in documents, records and files in which its name has been reproduced in various ways. The different spellings are due to the language change and the lack of uniform spelling . After its completion in the 13th century, it was initially called Burg Rinefels (1252) or Rynvels , later Rinvelz (1266) and ante castrum Ryuels (1271). The current name was first mentioned in 1300: Rheinfels ; In 1316 it was called comes de Rinuels , a little later in 1326 and 1338–42 again Rynvels and 1330 Rinvels , in the 15th century (1464) somewhat modified Rynfels and Rinfels . Other spellings were: Rinfelsch (1483), Rheynfelsch (1508), Rhinfelz (1555), Reinfelsch and Reinfelß . Mid-17th century already appears temporarily Rheinfels (labeled drawing by Wenzel Hollar 1635), late 17th century wrote one Rheinfeltz and Rheinfelß (1690), since the second half of the 18th century has Rheinfels enforced. The name variants Rhynfels and Rhinfels can sometimes be found on English and French drawings and engravings from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Governors and commanders

  • 1480–1489 Volpert Schenk zu Schweinsberg
  • 1489–1499 Hermann Dogs from Sauwelnheim
  • 1499–1516 Engelbrecht von Krengell
  • 1516–1531 Knight Jost von Dracksdorf
  • 1531–1551 Friedrich von Schonebergk
  • 1551–1564 Junker Rheinhard Schenk
  • 1564–1566 Wolf von Salhausen
  • 1566–1568 Marsilius von Reiffenberg
  • 1568–1574 Friedrich von Stein
  • 1574–1580 Melchior von Elz
  • 1580–1584 Burkhard von Calenberg
  • 1584–1599 Friedrich von Nordeck
  • 1599–1617 Otto Wilhelm von Berlepsch , died on Rheinfels
  • 1617–1620 Wilhelm Graf zu Solms , Lord of Munzenberg, Wildenfels and Sonnewalde
  • 1620–1622 Colonel Friedrich von Stockhausen
  • 1622–1626 Colonel Johann von Uffeln

Under Hessen-Darmstadt :

  • 1626–1630 Knight Johann Wolf von Weitolshausen called Schrautenbach
  • 1630–1634 Colonel Johann Wilhelm Wilkühr
  • 1634–1636 Colonel Georg Philipp von Buseck
  • 1636–1638 Colonel Christian Marsilius Wolff von Todenwarth
  • 1638–1639 Colonel Carl Friedrich von Vitzthum
  • 1639–1641 Senior Magistrate Dominieus Porsen
  • 1641–1642 Commander Johann Balthasar Strupp von Gelnhausen
  • 1642–1645 Colonel Johann Wilhelm Wilkühr
  • 1645–1647 Colonel Johann von Koppenstein
  • 1647, 14.-18. July General Kaspar Kornelius Mortaigne de Potelles , died on Rheinfels on July 18, 1647
  • 1647–1650 Colonel Briel
  • 1650–1654 Johann Limburg von Nimbrecht
  • 1654–1656 Major Andreas Castrop
  • 1656–1658 Major Caraway
  • 1658–1661 Colonel Barthol Deitter
  • 1661–1663 Colonel Franz Friedrich Lindermann
  • 1663–1665 Colonel Johann Hermann von Nordeck
  • 1665–1669 Colonel von Rodenstein
  • 1669–1673 Colonel Johann Cochenheims
  • 1673–1685 Colonel Jaeob Heinrich Sauerbick
  • 1685–1687 Major Stoffel
  • 1687–1692 Colonel of Ufflingen
  • 1692–1696 Major General and Oberamtmann Georg Sittich Ludwig von Schlitz called von Görz , died on February 3, 1696 on Rheinfels
  • 1696–1697 Colonel of Tettau
  • 1697–1698 major general and chief magistrate Dettlof von Schwerin
  • 1698–1699 Major Coeetti
  • 1699–1702 Lieutenant von Schneid
  • 1702–1703 Colonel Schoepping
  • 1703–1705 Colonel Hans Curt Schonz, died on October 12th 1705 on Rheinfels
  • 1705–1707 Colonel von Baumbach
  • 1707–1712 Lieutenant General and Governor Otto Christoph von Verschuer (Werschur), died on 19 July 1712 on Rheinfels
Second in command: Colonel Johann Caspar Hesler
Second in command: Colonel Johann Georg von Heefs
  • 1716–1717 Major General Lewin Walrab von Bonneburg
  • 1717–1718 Governor Lieutenant General Conrad von Ranck
Commander: Brigadier von Baumbach
  • 1718–1721 Colonel Johann Georg von Heefs
  • 1721–1724 Colonel von Kellerhofen
  • 1724–1731 Colonel of Degano
  • 1731–1734 Colonel Marquis Friedrich Dominieus de Casselle
  • 1734–1745 Lieutenant General and Governor Christian Melchior Sigismund von Kutzleben , died on August 26, 1745 on Rheinfels
  • 1745–1748 Major General von Merlan, died on Rheinfels on December 9, 1748
  • 1748–1756 Governor Lieutenant General Heinrich von Mansbach
  • 1756–1758 Colonel von Freiwald
  • 1758–1760 Colonel of Yellow
  • 1760–1763 Colonel Chevalier de Tende et Cretot
  • 1763–1764 Colonel Ernst Ludwig von Logau
  • 1764–1776 Governor Lieutenant General Heinrich Wilhelm von Wutginau , died on October 10, 1776 on Rheinfels
second in command: Major General von Hachenberg
  • 1776–1786 Lieutenant General Ernst Heinrich von Wilcke, died on Rheinfels on August 20, 1786
Second in command: Colonel von Münchhausen
  • 1786–1787 Governor Lieutenant General Wilhelm Maximilian von Ditfurth
  • 1787–1788 Major General von Kospoth
  • 1788–1793 Colonel Carl Philipp Heymel, died on April 25, 1793 on Rheinfels
  • 1793–1794 Major General Philipp Valentin von Resius, died March 19, 1798 as a fortress prisoner at Spangenberg Castle
  • 1794–1796 Colonel Belleau
Rheinfels Castle at night

The attachment

clock tower
1. Shield wall and Darmstadt building
Grounds of the outer bailey (Marstall); in the background high battery and clock tower
North-western curtain wall and north building of the inner castle

From plans and drawings from the beginning of the 17th century, which Wilhelm Schäfer called Dilich had made in the service of Landgrave Moritz von Hessen-Kassel , one can see the layout and appearance of the inner castle from the 13th / 14th centuries. Century - before the large fortress expansion in the middle of the 17th century, to which three quarters of the current ruins can be attributed - to be reliably developed.

Through a gate tower , the 21 m high clock tower erected around 1300, the visitor arrives on a first - inner - castle walkway in the north of the complex to the broad front of the three-storey palace , the so-called Darmstadt building , which was executed in half-timbered with pointed gables. From the castle was once 54 meters high towering keep is no trace. It had a diameter of 10.5 m with a wall thickness of 3.5 m. In the 15th century, a narrower round tower was put on it, the so-called butter churn tower . The large cellar is located on the connecting path between the clock tower and the hall, which was the castle's former neck ditch. It was vaulted in two clearly visible construction phases in 1587–89. The largest self-supporting vaulted cellar in Europe has a length of 24 m, a width and height of about 16 m and can accommodate up to 400 people. The walls are up to 4 m thick. A brick wine barrel with a capacity of approx. 200,000 liters was built into the cellar . In 1997 it was completely renovated and returned to its original state. Since then it has served as an event location for concerts , theater performances and other performances ( fireworks ).

The core castle from the 13th century with a stair tower , which is now a castle museum, is reached through another gate (around 1300) . The south-western shield wall from the 14th century leads to the Marstallhof, a largely destroyed area of ​​the inner outer bailey . The royal stables , of which only a small remnant of the wall is preserved, once connected the north-western curtain wall with the gunsmith's tower, of which only a stump remains. A pillory has been reconstructed in the forecourt . After this circular walk in an arch, one arrives back to the clock tower, which has to be climbed, over the mantle wall from the 14th century and the high battery added around 1660 . To the south, the viewing platform offers a broad view over the harbor and the city of St. Goar , on the right bank of the Rhine to St. Goarshausen and Katz Castle , to the north down the Rhine to Maus Castle and to the west into the Gründelbach Valley .

A second - outer - castle walkway leads into the fortifications that were added in the 17th century. As part of a guided tour, the battlements up to the "Großer Halsgraben" are shown with a huge shield wall (visible loopholes ) that separate the outer outer bailey (the site of today's castle hotel) from the inner bailey. Two flights of stairs lead down to the underground mine passages , which were also accessible until 2017; This was an attraction especially for children, who could discover and explore many hidden, dark corners in the extensive ruins.

An educational trail, the so-called Rheinfelspfad , provides information about the historical background, the former social life in the castle, warfare and weapons, as well as plants and animals in the castle area , with information boards attached to the castle walls. The visitor gets to know common and rare mosses , lichens and ferns as well as Mediterranean plants, the provenance of which is explained by a former aristocratic pleasure garden located nearby (e.g. felt hornwort , sun rose , Carthusian carnation ). Swifts , kestrels and jackdaws nest in the framework . In addition, the rocks quartzite and slate are explained, which come from sediments in the Devonian era, when the Rhineland was still a shallow sea.

Hotel Rheinfels Castle

Since 1924 the castle ruins have been owned by the city of St. Goar, which undertook not to sell them on.

A hotel has been located next to the castle since 1973, and since 2005 has been called the "Romantik Hotel Schloss Rheinfels". In 1998 the city of St. Goar signed a long lease for the castle ruins for 99 years with the owners of the hotel, with the option of an extension for a further 99 years. In 2018, Georg Friedrich Prince of Prussia sued for the return of the castle because he saw the long lease as a prohibited sale. The Koblenz Regional Court dismissed a corresponding lawsuit in June 2019, and in January 2020 the Prince of Prussia reached an out-of-court settlement with the city of St. Goar and recognized their ownership of the castle.

Regular events

literature

  • Karl E. Demandt: Rheinfels and other Katzenelnbogen castles as residences, administrative centers and fortresses . (= Work of the Hessian Historical Commission, NF5). Darmstadt 1990.
  • Ludger Fischer : Rheinfels Castle and Fortress (Rheinische Kunststätten H. 390), Cologne 1993
  • Alexander Grebel: History of the city of St. Goar, print by Carl Sassenroth, St. Goar 1848. Digitized
  • Alexander Grebel: St. Goar, Ein Rheinisches Heimatbuch, completely revised based on the works of Alexander Grebel by Peter Knab, Verlag von Hermann Schulz, Düsseldorf 1925.
  • Alexander Grebel: The castle and fortress Rheinfels, 1844
  • Georg Ulrich Großmann : Castle and Fortress Rheinfels , ed. from the Wartburg Society Castles, Palaces and Fortifications in Central Europe, Vol. 17, Regensburg 2002
  • Carl Michaelis: Rheinfels Castle near St. Goar am Rhein with drawings by Dilich (1607) , St. Goar 1900, 1991 (large format brochure ), ISBN 3-926888-91-1 (reprinted in 1991 for the reopening of the Castle Museum on May 14th 1991)
  • Eduard Sebald: Medieval territorial formation, modern residence and fortress, romantic castle. Rheinfels - a Middle Rhine castle and its functions In: Olaf Wagener (Hrsg.): Burgen im Hunsrück - A castle landscape in the flow of time . Michael Imhof Verlag, Petersberg 2011, ISBN 978-3-86568-744-9 , pp. 106-120.
  • Alexander Thon: Cities against castles. Actual and alleged sieges of castles on the Middle Rhine by the Rhenish Federation 1254–1257 . In: Jahrbuch für Westdeutsche Landesgeschichte 34, Marburg 2008, pp. 17–42, here pp. 37–41 (on the siege by the Rhenish Federation 1256).
  • Monika Vogt: Opening the door to modern times. Encounters with Philip the Magnanimous in Hesse. Ed .: Sparkassen-Kulturstiftung Hessen-Thüringen / State Office for Monument Preservation Hessen , Wiesbaden 2003, pp. 23-25.

Documents

Web links

Commons : Rheinfels Castle  - Collection of images

Individual evidence

  1. Digital scan from the source
  2. ^ Peter Knab: St. Goar, Ein Rheinisches Heimatbuch, Verlag Hermann Schulz, Düsseldorf 1925, pp. 112, 113.
  3. ^ Peter Knab: St. Goar, Ein Rheinisches Heimatbuch, Verlag von Hermann Schulz, Düsseldorf, 1925, pages 146-153
  4. Continued new genealogical-historical news of the most noble events that happened at the European courts, 1764, p.332
  5. Height of the clock tower according to Flyer Tour No. 1 , Through the medieval castle
  6. ↑ Castle tour / Sankt Goar. Retrieved July 29, 2020 .
  7. a b c d Hohenzollern do not collect Rheinfels Castle . Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung . January 29, 2020. Retrieved January 29, 2020.
  8. Georg Friedrich Prince of Prussia calls for Rheinfels Castle back In: pfaelzischer-merkur.de , September 21, 2018, accessed on November 8, 2018.
  9. Prince of Prussia loses the Rheinfels Castle trial