Mülheim (Cologne)

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Coat of arms of Mülheim
Coat of arms of Cologne
district 901 of Cologne
Location of the Mülheim district in the Cologne-Mülheim district
Coordinates 50 ° 57 '44 "  N , 7 ° 0' 15"  E Coordinates: 50 ° 57 '44 "  N , 7 ° 0' 15"  E
surface 7.067 km²
Residents 42,786 (Dec. 31, 2017)
Population density 6054 inhabitants / km²
Incorporation Apr 1, 1914
Postcodes 51063, 51065
prefix 0221
Borough Mulheim (9)
Transport links
Highway A3
Federal road B8 B51 B506
Railway connection Cologne-Mülheim RE 1 RE 5 RB 48 S 6 S 11
Light rail lines 3 4th 13 18th
Bus routes 150 151 152 153 155 156 159 171 250 260 434
Source: 2017 residents . (PDF) Cologne district information

Mülheim ( Kölsch : Müllem ) is an originally Bergisch district of Cologne , which gave the district Mülheim its name. With 41,814 inhabitants ( as of December 31, 2012 ), Mülheim is the city's most populous district.


Mülheimer Bridge and a "Müllemer Böötche"
“Müllemer Böötche” at their mooring around 1900, they became well-known through the carnival song “ Heidewitzka, Herr Kapitän ”.
Excerpt from Cologne and Mülheim "Carte des Duchy of Berg" Wiebeking around 1790; Source: Mülheim in the Cologne City Museum 1991
Lithographed postcards around 1900. Mülheim costume.
Lithographed postcard 1914 Mülheim with Mülheimer god costume
Lithographed postcard 1897 Fischer
Litho greeting from Mülheim 1898 Wwe Jacobi

Mülheim borders in the east on Höhenhaus and Buchheim , in the south on Buchforst and Deutz , in the west on the Rhine and in the north on Stammheim .


The name of the current district comes from the mills that once existed on the Strunderbach . The beginnings of the place go back to the 9th century. Politically, Mülheim has belonged to the Duchy of Berg since the Middle Ages .

  • Spelling of the place between the 11th and 14th centuries is Mulinheim or Molenheym . At that time, Mülheim was less important than the neighboring Buchheim, on whose parish it remained until the end of the 16th century. Often the year 1098 is still accepted as the year of the first mention of the city of Mülheim, which was incorporated into Cologne in 1914. This assumption, which has since been refuted, goes back to the mid-19th century. The alleged first document "Mulenheim" from 1098 for Mülheim am Rhein does not exist as such, but only refers to events that are first mentioned in documents of the St. Pantaleon monastery from [1112/15] and 1139 and only roughly with the Reign of Archbishop Hermann III. (1089-1099) can be dated. The reference to the St. Pantaleon Monastery also refers to Hermülheim, west of Cologne, in which the St. Pantaleon Monastery always had possessions in later times, while in Mülheim am Rhein no possessions of the monastery can be proven at any time. The lost document from 1089/99 is now largely edited by E. Wisplinghoff. The first documents that can definitely be related to Mülheim am Rhein result from documents dated October 1, 1151 (Mulnehim), August 11, 1157 (Mulenheim) and from 1166 (Mulenheim) as well as from a copy of one made in the 15th century Certificate of the year [1152] (Molenheym).
  • Mülheim's importance increased in 1268 because, due to its high bank location, it became the ferry station of the Altenberg monastery, which it remained until 1700. From that time until the French occupation 1795-1801, Mülheim was used by the Count von Berg as an outpost against Cologne. In 1275 the place was fortified with walls. Adolf von Berg also set up a mint in Mülheim.
  • 1308 severe ice drift
  • On March 7, 1322, Mülheim was granted the rights of a freedom by Adolf von Berg (it still exists today as a street under the name "Mülheimer Freiheit").
  • The intended competition between the Counts of Berg and the city of Cologne was viewed with suspicion by the people of Cologne. The fortifications, ramparts and ditches directed towards Cologne were repeatedly razed at Cologne's instigation, the last time being in 1641. Cologne has repeatedly tried to restrict the expansion of Mülheim into a city (Mülheim fortifications: 1255–1286, 1288– ?, 1414–1417, 1588– 1615, 1637-1641).
  • The competition with the city of Cologne is also shown in the hope that the Rhine will break through above the city of Cologne near Poll to Mülheim, permanently change its bed and cut Cologne off this traffic artery. In this sense, the Counts of Berg resisted for a long time against fortifying the Rhine bank bollard using the bollard heads .
  • 1656 Mülheim competes with Cologne as a market place. It receives the right to hold a market three times a year. In 1688 and 1715 these special rights were confirmed again. In 1785 Mülheim received city ​​rights .
  • There was an economic boom in the 18th century. The smaller Mülheim, on the other hand, took advantage of weaknesses of the larger competitor. Since 1609 there has been free religious practice in the Bergisches Land. In 1610 the Protestants built the first Protestant church in Mülheim. With this religious tolerance, Mülheim attracted wealthy Protestant merchants who were not allowed to settle in strictly Catholic Cologne (since the religious turmoil of 1714). First the silk factory of Christoph Andreae (senior) came to Mülheim. Merchants traveling up the Rhine were also helped to circumvent Cologne's stacking law by unloading their ships in order to transport the goods by land around Cologne: This avoided the obligation to unload all goods in Cologne and offer them for sale there for three days .
  • 1784 The great Rhine flood in February almost completely destroyed Mülheim.
Plan Entfestigung Köln-Mülheim 1614. " Gantz Actual illustration of the new Mülheim started three years ago, in it not only the same now thrown wall street, but also all and iegigen new we are diligently demolished ".
  • 1815 Mülheim becomes part of the Kingdom of Prussia , becomes the seat of the newly formed Mülheim district in the Rhine province and subsequently develops into an industrial city. During the industrialization in the 19th century, some companies settled in the Mülheim area which were to become known beyond the region, for example the white lead factory “Lindgens & Söhne” in 1851, the chamotte factory “Martin & Pagenstecher” in 1872, the “Böcking & Cie” rolling mill in 1872 and 1874 the wire rope works " Felten & Guilleaume ".
  • In 1843 Heinrich Heine passed Mülheim on his journey from Cologne to Hagen, just like in Germany. A winter tale , Caput VIII, described.
  • 1845 Inauguration of the Cologne-Minden Railway. Mülheim gradually becomes a railway junction (1868 Bergisch-Märkische Eisenbahn , 1879 Rheinische Eisenbahn ).
  • In 1888 a ship bridge replaced the ferry service.
  • 1901 Mülheim was officially recognized as a “city”.
  • 1914 The incorporation of the city of Mülheim am Rhein into Cologne took place against the resistance of the population on April 1st.
  • In 1929 the first fixed suspension bridge in Mülheim replaced the old ship bridge.
  • In 1951, today's Mülheim Bridge was opened.

Description of the 'Freiheit Mülheim' from 1729

Johann Wülfing: Description of the elegant trading towns and areas of the Bergisches Land (1729)


“The freedom or the Mark-Flecken Mülheim lies in a beautiful, fun plain on the Rhine in front of the imperial city of Cöllen, is in the position extensively built with magnificent houses and is similar to a very fine city. There are very many distinguished merchants and traders here who do a lot of business with silk in foreign countries, as do fruit and wine traders. The mayor and council are of the Roman Catholic religion, but the majority of the citizens also have their churches here and free Exercitium Religionis ( exercise of religion) . The Evangelical Lutheran and Reformed in the city of Cöllen have to travel across the Rhine on Sundays and public holidays and hold their services here; otherwise the Roman Catholics have a beautiful church here. "

Details on the process of incorporation into Cologne

The enormous need for space in the growing city of Cologne in the 19th century ensured that the city increasingly began negotiations with surrounding villages about incorporation. But, of all things, the contacts with Mülheim failed again and again, which rubbed off on other places on the right bank of the Rhine. Therefore, the Cologne city council thought about how to put increased pressure on Mülheim.

One of the first measures was to encircle Mülheim with formerly independent districts that were now incorporated into Cologne. For example, the then mayor of Cologne, Wallraf, strengthened contacts with the mayor of Merheim, Bensberg. At first, Mülheim had hoped that they could team up with Merheim against Cologne. But Cologne's approach was more successful. On October 29, 1912, an incorporation agreement was concluded between Cologne and Merheim. A decisive lure was the offer to guarantee the citizens of Merheim tax equality with Cologne. But there were also more 'private' offers: the mayor of Merheim, Bensberg, received a guaranteed annual payment of 10,000 Marks for life - personally.

Mülheim was thus largely circled. In addition to the Rhine in the west, Merheim in the north and east and Deutz and Kalk in the south were now in Cologne's hands. The then mayor of Mülheim, Clostermann, was now faced with slight pressure from the Prussian state government, which also had a say in this. In Berlin he was recommended not to oppose renewed negotiations with Cologne. The district president intervened in March 1913. And so in 1913 there was a change of mood in the political circles of Mülheim. One felt that one could not escape the coming developments and seized the opportunity. On March 18, 1913, there was an incorporation agreement, which the two city councils approved on March 27 without a dissenting vote. In the further negotiations with Cologne, not only did they achieve tax equality, but also - as the clearest sign - the construction of a large suspension bridge in place of the old ship bridge. In addition, the following were agreed: the establishment of a separate local administrative office, retention of the royal district court and the commercial court, an expansion of the shipyard and the guarantee that the Mülheim costumes would continue to exist. Nevertheless, there were still massive protests in the Mülheim citizenship. A "committee to prevent incorporation" had collected 4,000 signatures and submitted a petition to the Berlin Reichstag. The decisive vote did not take place in Cologne, but in Berlin. On June 10, 1914 - 18 days before the assassination attempt in Sarajevo that started World War I - a large majority in Berlin decided that Mülheim was now part of Cologne. With that the last resistance was broken.

Traffic history in Mülheim


Entrance building of the Mülheim am Rhein train station (1910)

The railway age for Mülheim began on December 15, 1845, when the Cologne-Mindener Eisenbahn-Gesellschaft started operations on the Deutz-Düsseldorf section with a station on Frankfurter Strasse. At first, the traffic on this route remained very low, only four passenger trains and one freight train drove daily from Deutz to Minden and back. Only after the war of 1870/71 did an upswing in rail traffic begin, which then increased continuously. In 1914 the city of Mülheim was touched by seven railway lines:

Routes with connection to the train stations in Cologne-Mülheim:

Routes that affect the urban area in the south:

Plan Cologne and the surrounding area with Mülheim 1899 Greven's address book publisher
Railway stations in Mülheim Rhein around 1895 on Buchheimer Strasse

For a long time, the railway lines of the various railway companies ran separately from those of the Rheinische Eisenbahn to the terminals Deutzerfeld, Deutz, Kalk - in such a way that large parts of the economically thriving urban area of ​​Mülheim were separated from one another. This led to considerable traffic disruptions and hazards, mostly affecting the railway junctions with the main roads. Separate stations of the Cologne-Mindener and Bergische railway companies were next to each other on Buchheimer Strasse (near Wiener Platz), as both railway companies had their own rail network. This led to two decades of deliberation to carry out the urgently needed relocation of the stations in order to outsource the rail traffic in a new station. Construction work began in 1903, on July 1, 1909, the new station was opened at its current location and all goods and passenger traffic could be moved over the newly built route.

On March 30, 1910, a serious railway accident occurred in the train station in Cologne-Mülheim : 22 people died and 56 were injured.


Electric tram on the Mülheim-Ehrenfeld line on Buchheimer Strasse around 1910. Source: The Chamber of Commerce for the Mülheim am Rhein district (1871–1914) Heinz Hermanns.

On April 28, 1877, the first horse-drawn tram connection was opened between the towns of Deutz and Kalk, which were not yet incorporated into Cologne. The horse-drawn tram between Mülheim and Deutz, which was operated from 1880, carried 390,831 people in 1885 and already 815,726 people in 1900 at a fare of initially 25 Pfg.But after the local steamship service Mülheim-Cologne reduced its tariff in 1895, it was reduced to 15 on January 1, 1896 Lowered Pfg.

On April 1, 1900, the Cologne city of Cologne took over the operation of the Cologne horse-drawn railways. From this point in time, the switch to electric was pushed ahead rapidly and was largely completed by 1903, and the tram network was systematically expanded in the following years.

Towards the end of the 19th century, a consortium for the construction and operation of the Mülheim trams was founded in Mülheim. An extensive network was planned, which should also include numerous locations in the Mülheim catchment area. This came into conflict with the city of Cologne, which was also planning a suburban railway network from Deutz. This conflict between the railways of the city of Cologne and the Mülheimer Kleinbahnen was to drag on for almost 20 years after the incorporation of Mülheim.

But first there were other problems to be solved. The difficult railroad conditions were a problem. The railway lines, which were laid out at ground level, were not allowed to be crossed by trams with passengers. As a result, a lot of construction work had to be done until the new Mülheim train station and its access routes were built.

Another issue was horse tram rights. According to the concession of 1879, Mülheim was tied to the horse-drawn railway company until 1904. On the basis of the severance agreement with the City of Cologne, these rights were transferred to the City of Cologne by April 30, 1904. This initially led to the curiosity that the electric Cologne tram ended for a year at the city limits of Mülheim and had to be switched to the horse-drawn tram.

In the autumn of 1903, the electrical operation of the Mülheim tram company opened on the old horse-drawn tram route from Mülheim to Deutz. The old rights of the horse-drawn railway line were still with the city ​​of Cologne , so that the operation was carried out with Cologne vehicles for half a year. From this point on, the Mülheimer Kleinbahn took over the operation of this route. However, no agreement was reached with the Cologne Railway on continuous operation. As a result, the trip to Cologne was only possible by having to change trains in Deutz.

In and around Mülheim, extensive construction work began immediately after the horse-drawn tram license had expired to create its own tram network. However, this was offset by the disputes with the Cologne tram. Finally, it was agreed that, with effect from January 1, 1910, the lines Deutzer-, Freiheit-, Dünnwalder-, Berliner Straße and Danzier, Damm-, Gladbacher Straße, for a period of 10 years, against certain conditions of the city of Cologne left.

Thus the Mülheimer Kleinbahnen operated two lines almost a decade after it was founded. One led from Höhenberg - where there was a connection to the Cologne line to Bensberg - on Frankfurter Straße via Mülheim to Dünnwald, the other via Wiesdorf to Opladen. All other tram lines in the Mülheim area were operated by the Cologne trams. The line to Dünnwald was extended to Schlebusch in 1928.

In 1913 there were nine tram routes in the Mülheim am Rhein district , starting either in Cologne or Mülheim.

  • Mülheim – Opladen, opened in 1910.
  • Mülheim – Dünnwald, opened in 1908.
  • Mülheim – Buchheim – Höhenberg, opened in 1909
  • Cologne – Mülheim via Deutz, opened in 1903
  • Cologne – Königsforst via Rath-Heumar, opened in 1904.
  • Cologne – Bergisch Gladbach via Buchheim – Holweide, opened in 1906.
  • Mülheim – Holweide, opened in 1906.
  • Cologne – Porz via Poll, opened in 1909.
  • Cologne – Bensberg via Brück, opened (1906) in 1913.

The first three routes were owned by the Mülheim company, the city of Cologne operated the remaining routes.

After the incorporation of Mülheim in 1914, little changed because the Mülheimer Kleinbahn concession lasted until 1927. The takeover by the Kölner Bahnen did not take place until August 1933, as the Mülheimer Kleinbahnen fought against this takeover with legal means for several years.

Following the takeover, the routes to Opladen and Schlebusch were included in the Cologne suburban railway network and began their route in downtown Cologne. The route from Mülheim on Frankfurter Straße to Höhenberg was shut down in 1934 in favor of bus service.

For further developments, see the article on the Cologne urban railway .


Entry of the Mülheim harbor in 1953

The Mülheim security harbor was built between 1892 and 1898 at river kilometer 691.

Mills on the round

In Mülheim there were several mills on the Strunde , which flowed here at that time : the Markermühle (until 1912), the Lohmühle and the Dominikusmühle (until 1910).

Demographic statistics

Structure of the population of Cologne-Mülheim:

  • Proportion of under 18-year-olds: 16.6% (2015)
  • Proportion of over 64-year-olds: 14.4% (2015)
  • Proportion of foreigners: 31.8% (2015)
  • Unemployment rate: 15.5% (2014)


Sacred buildings

St. Clemens and Pohlsche's house
Saint Clement by night
Mülheim around 1630 with the Romanesque Clement Church ( Wenzel Hollar )

St. Clement

The former Schifferkirche St. Clemens is the most famous church in Mülheim. Due to its location directly on the Rhine, it was built over a high wall. Archaeological studies have shown that there was a single-nave, three-axis chapel here as early as the 12th century, i.e. a Romanesque hall church. The eventful history of the building has meant that the floor plan is irregular. There are hardly any correct axis relationships and right angles. The Clemenskirche is the starting and ending point of the “Mülheimer Gottestracht”.

In the years 1692 and 1720 - at least that much is documented - the church was expanded in phases to a three-aisled plastered building with a four-axis central nave and three-axis side aisles. The east end was formed by three three-sided apses in the same alignment. The square choir tower still rises behind the main apse. This east tower shows an octagonal floor above the square basic shape of a balustrade, on which a Welsche dome with a lantern is placed. This canon of forms was not new. The tower of St. Mary's Assumption in downtown Cologne on Marzellenstrasse already had this structure and later the monastery church of St. Mary of Peace in Schnurgasse. In 1864 St. Clemens became a subsidiary church of the Liebfrauengemeinde under canon law.

The church was badly damaged during World War II. When it was restored, a west porch and tracery windows were dispensed with. The former stone vault was replaced by a wooden flat ceiling from 1952 to 1960 by Joachim Schürmann . “Since a Romanesque core was not discovered until 1939 during renovation work in the baroque church complex, the architect followed the principle of 'Romanization in the spirit of modernity' during the restoration. H. he tried to use the remaining parts of the building to create an appearance of the church reminiscent of the Romanesque, without restoring the original parts. "

Today's "Irish Portal" from 1960 also comes from Joachim Schürmann. On its inside there are scenes from the life of St. Clement. The altar cross in the interior of the church was created by Werner Schürmann , the brother of the post-war builder. That was not the end of the family's contribution. The tabernacle and the windows of the Clement Church are by Gerda Schürmann-Frömel.

Opposite the main portal, the newly created statue of St. Nepomuk (patron saint of bridges) on the Rhine wall. It was created by the sculptor Michael Pohlmann from Düren and is a copy of a 300-year-old, meanwhile very weathered original. The statue made of Belgian granite weighs 800 kg. During the construction of the new dike in 2007/2008 it was thoroughly restored, impregnated and covered with a protective layer against graffiti. It was ceremonially unveiled on August 22, 2008. The church has been illuminated at night since December 2015.

Tower and first yoke of the former Luther Church in Mülheim

Luther Church (Luther Emergency Church)

Luther Emergency Church

As the central church of the evangelical parish of Mülheim am Rhein, the Luther Church was built in 1893-95 according to plans by the Cologne architects Schreiterer & Below as a gallery-hall block construction made of light-colored ashlar with horizontal dividing bands made of red sandstone. In the Second World War (1942 and 1944) the church was destroyed, only the tower and its flank buildings of the first yoke as well as the three-sided entrance area made of sandstone remained in ruins. They are rebuilt (1968–1978) in a somewhat simpler and shortened form under monument protection. The Luther Emergency Church (Adamsstrasse 47, 51063 Cologne) was built from the rubble next to the tower ruins according to plans by the architect Otto Bartning . It was inaugurated in 1949. It is a self-supporting wooden construction, in the spaces between which the rubble stones were bricked. The church is reminiscent of an upturned ship. A large number of emergency churches in Germany were built according to this pattern. The tower was rebuilt between 1968 and 1978. The Luther Emergency Church is now home to the inter-congregational youth church “witty - youth makes church”, which offers services, workshops and concerts for young people and young adults. It offers many young people the chance to actively help shape the church themselves.



In 1655 the Lutheran congregation built the first church in Mülheim. It was destroyed by ice in 1784. Only the church tower remained, but was demolished. His baroque tail cap was sold to the Protestant community in Monschau . From 1784 to 1786 Wilhelm Hellwig erected a simple central building, an interpenetration of cross shape and circle. In 1845–48 a three-story west tower was added - according to Zwirner's plans. In 1935 the church was redesigned in baroque style. After the merger of the Lutheran and Reformed congregations, the church was given the name Friedenskirche . The building was badly damaged in the Second World War. Then an attempt was made to at least bring the exterior structure to the state of 1935. The interior was redesigned at the end of the 1990s. Today it is the main church of the evangelical parish of Mülheim am Rhein.

Sacred Heart Church

Sacred Heart Church

Erected 1893–1900 by the government architect Julius Busch as a neo - Gothic three - aisled hall with a transept, polygonal east apse and west tower with a high helmet. The vaults, the spire and the sacristy were destroyed by the war. Some pieces of equipment have been preserved, such as the altar created by the Mülheim sculptor of historicism Ferdinand Hachenberg .

The Herz-Jesu-Kirche was rebuilt from 1954 to 1956 according to plans by Otto Bongartz : simplified in many ways, including: a. without vaulted ceilings and without the tall spire. The intact high altar as well as the entire original interior of the east apse fell victim to the redesign. A 17th century statue of the Virgin Mary was purchased from Austria for the reconstruction; a figure of Christ placed opposite , showing Jesus as the Man of Sorrows , was created around 1520 in Switzerland.

The original set of bells from 1897 includes four bells. As a result of the delivery for armaments purposes during the First World War, they were replaced in 1925 by a three-bell ringing. The bells that exist today were consecrated in 1967: d ': Voco mortuos in memoriam (' I call the dead to mind '), f': Gaudete ('Rejoice!') And b ': Exultate (' Jauchzet! ').


The organ comes from the workshop of Orgelbau Ernst Seifert (Bergisch Gladbach). The instrument, built in 1958 with a free pipe prospect on a 16 'basis, is based on an electric pocket shop . The 42 registers are controlled from a movable console. The organ was technically and tonally renovated in 2014 by the organ building workshop Romanus Seifert in Kevelaer.

I Hauptwerk C – g 3
1. Bourdun 16 ′
2. Principal 8th'
3. Willow pipe 8th'
4th Dumped 8th'
5. Octav 4 ′
6th recorder 4 ′
7th Fifth 2 2 / 3 '
8th. Pointed flute 2 ′
9. third 1 3 / 5 '
10. Mixture 5–7 times
11. Trumpet 8th'
II crown positive C – g 3
12. Reed flute 8th'
13. Quintatön 8th'
14th Praestant 4 ′
15th Gemshorn 2 ′
16. Larigot 1 1 / 3 '
17th Sharp 4-fold
18th musette 8th'
III Swell C – g 3
19th Italian principal 8th'
20th Open flute 8th'
21st Viol 8th'
22nd Vox Angelika 8th'
23. Principal 4 ′
24. Night horn 4 ′
25th Schwiegel 2 ′
26th Octavin 1'
27. Cymbal 4 fold
28. Mixture 4-6 times
29 Dulcian 16 ′
30th Schalmey 8th'
31. Trumpet 4 ′
Pedal C – g 1
32. Principal 16 ′
33. Sub bass 16 ′
34. Dacked bass 16 ′
35. Octavbass 8th'
36. Flute bass 8th'
37. Choral bass 4 ′
38. Tubular crossbeam 2 ′
39. Rauschbass 4-fold 2 2 / 3 '
40. Trombone shelf 32 ′
41. trombone 16 ′
42. Bass trumpet 8th'
  • Coupling : II to I, III to I, Sub II to I, Sub III to I; Sub III to II, III to II; I to Ped, II to Ped, III to Ped
Church of Our Lady

Church of Our Lady

Erected 1857–64 according to plans by the cathedral builder Ernst Friedrich Zwirner as a three-aisled neo-Gothic brick building with a western tower in front and consecrated in 1865 by the auxiliary bishop Johann Anton Friedrich Baudri . The church was badly destroyed in the war. The west tower and the trimmed perimeter wall of the nave have been preserved.

St. Anthony

For the rapidly growing population of Mülheim, a new church in the neo-Gothic style was planned at the end of the 19th century. St. Antonius is a three-aisled basilica with a transept and rectangular choir. An octagonal spire rises above the choir, which is accompanied to the south and north by two small square towers. In front of the west facade there are two single-storey entrance halls that look like extensions of the aisles. Both have pointed pyramid roofs.

The plans for this neo-Gothic new building come from Heinrich Renard . At the beginning of the 20th century, the new building was built in two phases. Archbishop Karl Joseph Cardinal Schulte was able to complete the final consecration in 1921. The Antoniuskirche was only slightly damaged in the Second World War. Only the windows and parts of the roof had to be replaced. The first service was celebrated again on June 12, 1946. In 1967 the interior was redesigned by Gottfried Böhm . At the same time the Church passed into the hands of the Salesians of Don Bosco. In 1993 the church was restored again.

The interior: In the crossing is the travertine celebration altar, which Gottfried Böhm also created. A neo-Gothic triumphal cross by the Mülheim sculptor Schmitz hangs between the crossing and the choir. It was not originally intended for this location, but part of the high altar. However, this was replaced by a new one in 1916.

More churches in the district

  • St. Elisabeth
  • St. Brother Klaus
  • Church of the Redeemer (Baptists)
  • Community hall of the Free Evangelical Congregation Regentenstrasse
  • Alfonsus House of the Redemptorists Sonderburgerstr.

Other buildings

Zwischenwerk XIb, (Mülheim), Cottbuser Strasse, south of Berliner Strasse, west of the Autobahn; 1877–1879: built; 1922: partly dragged; 1923: Fritz Encke's redesign plan as a recreational facility; 1927: execution; since 1969: club rooms of the Holweide music train; Today: Club rooms of the youth music and fanfare corps Holweide, garden office, preserved: Kehlkaserne , flank and front ditch as well as moat as an ornamental system at a different altitude.

Pohl's house

The excellently restored Pohlsche Haus is right next to the Clemenskirche. It owes its name to the former mayor of Mülheim, Peter Pohl, who lived in it from 1916 to 1933. However, it was built by Franz Josef Bertoldi as early as 1773 on the back of his property on Mülheimer Freiheit, where he ran a customs yard. The building was home to the Rheinsaal, where the Bertoldi family celebrated parties and gave receptions. Like many other houses in Mülheim, the ice drift of 1784 did not spare this house either - the two upper floors were destroyed but rebuilt. The Second World War left only three outer walls of the building. In 1965 the house was restored. Decorations from the broken down house at Mülheimer Freiheit 111 were used again and incorporated. In 1992 another restoration took place.

House Krahnenburg

House Krahnenburg

Krahnenstrasse 8. Built in 1758. Baroque building with nine axes, two storeys with a mansard roof. The three-wing building has two cellars ("Krahnenburgkeller"). The carefully restored stucco facade shows the inclusion of ashlar.

Bertoldi House

Bertoldi House

Buchheimer Straße 29, formerly Bärenhof, today a deer pharmacy. Built in 1780. Fine five-axis Louis XVI facade, two-storey mansard roof . Here Napoleon was entertained by the then mayor Bertoldi.

Rebuilt in 1963 after severe war damage.

City fountain Cologne-Mülheim 2015

City fountain

The Mülheim city ​​fountain is located at the kink of the Mülheimer Freiheit street. This fountain, entitled "Mülheimia", was created in 1884 by Wilhelm Albermann. It represents the city goddess on the top of a pillar-like construction. The center of the pillar is surrounded by three boys dressed in the Middle Ages, who represent trade, industry and agriculture, according to the place's earlier importance as a flourishing industrial city.

More Attractions

Due to natural disasters, war and reconstruction, only a few houses have survived from the original baroque buildings of the old Mülheim. The former main street, the Mülheimer Freiheit, has been permanently disturbed in its course since the construction of the Rhine bridge in 1927-29. At that time, old Mülheim was mainly located between the Mülheimer Freiheit, which ran parallel to the Rhine, and the landside boundary in the area of ​​today's Wallstrasse. But apart from a few ground plans south of the bridge, these traces have been blurred. The houses Mülheimer Freiheit No. 31, 33, 102 and 119 and Krahnenstrasse No. 8 (Krahnenburg House) have been preserved - albeit not in the original building structure - from the baroque era.

Historic row of houses on the Mülheimer Freiheit
City map Mülheim am Rhein at the beginning of the 19th century

In the classicist houses of the 19th century Mülheimer Freiheit 69, 71, 113 and 121, at least the basic baroque structure has been preserved. Of the listed houses from the 19th and early 20th centuries, the comparatively tall house Mülheimer Freiheit 2–4 from 1907 is worth mentioning, which with its striking, richly decorated gable window defines the row of houses on the Rhine from afar. The comic artist and photo-realistic painter Josta Stapper lived here until 1979 .

Of the streets that belonged to the peripheral area at the time, mansions of well-to-do citizens have survived, especially in Regentenstrasse, Adamstrasse, Keupstrasse and Münsterer Strasse.

  • Residential house “Zum golden Berg”, Mülheimer Freiheit 40: Napoleon had breakfast there with the owner at the time, silk manufacturer Karl Christian Andreae.


  • Genoveva fountain
  • Fairy tale fountain
  • Shipping Fountain Monument


Old Catholic cemetery

The outer fortress ring

  • Intermediate work XIb



  • Hölderlin high school
  • Rhein high school
  • Genoveva high school
  • Elly-Heuss-Knapp secondary school
  • Johann-Bendel-Realschule (formerly Realschule Danzierstraße, before that Realschule Pestalozzistraße)
  • Realschule Lasallestrasse
  • Tiefentalstrasse secondary school
  • Municipal Comprehensive School Cologne-Mülheim (formerly Rendsburger Platz secondary school)
  • Catholic primary school Luzerner Weg
  • Catholic primary school Horststrasse


Well-known sports clubs in Cologne-Mülheim are the Mülheimer Turnverein (MTV), the soccer club SC Köln-Mülheim Nord , the gymnastics community Mülheim am Rhein from 1879 and the Athlete Club Mülheim am Rhein from 1892 eV


The central point of the district is Wiener Platz . This is where federal highways 8 and 51 intersect , and federal road 506 begins . In the course of the B 51, the bridge ramp of the Mülheim bridge on the right bank of the Rhine begins . Several light rail lines intersect on and below the square ( see Mülheim Wiener Platz underground station ).

The Cologne-Mülheim station is on the Cologne – Wuppertal railway line with the Rhein-Wupper-Bahn (RB 48) stop , and on the Cologne – Duisburg line with the NRW-Express (RE 1), Rhein-Express (RE 5) and stop the S 6 of the S-Bahn Rhein-Ruhr , on the Cologne-Mülheim – Bergisch Gladbach line with service by the S 11 of the Cologne S-Bahn , and on the Mülheim-Speldorf – Troisdorf line, which is only used by freight trains . There is a possibility to change to two trams and several bus lines.

The area of ​​the Mülheim port does not belong to the HGK - like the other Cologne ports - but is part of the international waterway "Rhine", which is dedicated according to § 1 of the Federal Waterways Act . Therefore the port belongs to the Federal Republic; the Cologne Waterways and Shipping Office, represented here with a branch, is only the operator for the Federal Republic of Germany. The Cologne shipyard Deutz with propeller repairs and inland shipping yard also has its operations here. The leisure industry is taking up more and more space. A large beach club with beach chairs and palm trees in the bucket determines the picture next to the film city for Die Anrheiner . In addition, more and more residential developments are being built on the edge of the harbor.

Culture and events

Ship procession at the Mülheimer Gottestracht 2013 in front of St. Clemens . On the right the statue of St. Nepomuk

Mülheim costume of God

The Mülheim costume is the biggest festival in Mülheim. It has probably been celebrated since the 14th century. It is also the largest ship procession on the Rhine.

Shooting and folk festival

The Schützen- und Volksfest of the Sankt Sebastianus Schützenbruderschaft Mülheim am Rhein from 1435 begins with the procession on Corpus Christi and ends on Sunday of the same week. The fairground for the four-day rifle and folk festival is under the Mülheim bridge on the banks of the Rhine.

Event halls

City hall Cologne-Mülheim
E-Werk Köln-Mülheim
  • The E-Werk is an event hall in Schanzenstrasse , which is mainly used for rock and pop concerts. In 1991 this event hall with an event area of ​​1600 m² for 2000 visitors was created from an industrial monument. The list of guest stars ranges from BAP to David Bowie , Peter Maffay and Status Quo . The Cologne stunksitzung takes place here during carnival time.
  • The palladium is opposite the power station and is under the same management. It is also located on the site of the former Cologne cable factory Felten & Guilleaume . On around 3000 m², the Palladium offers space for up to 4000 people for concerts and events. It also offers space for smaller events. In 2008, the responsible subcommittee of the Cologne City Council unanimously voted in favor of the Palladium as an alternative location for the Cologne Opera during the major renovation work from 2010.
  • The Mülheimer Stadthalle, which is centrally located near Wiener Platz, is also used for concerts. In addition, various other events such as antique markets, sales fairs and model railway exchanges take place there. The hall offers around 1500 m² of space for around 2200 visitors. This hall became known nationwide when, on April 25, 1990, the then SPD chancellor candidate Oskar Lafontaine was critically injured by the mentally ill Adelheid Streidel with a knife near the carotid artery during an election campaign .


In December 2007, Beos GmbH acquired the unused site of the Carlswerk on Schanzenstrasse with a size of 127,000 m² in order to build a commercial campus with a mixture of office, commercial and service areas. It contains more than 20 buildings (built between 1896 and 1984). The centerpiece is a 103 meter long main building from 1961, which Bastei-Lübbe- Verlag moved into in January 2010 . The former coil factory was built 1938–1948 (refurbished by March 2009), the laboratory building in 1922 (December 2008), Quartier 2 1917 (summer 2010), Quartier 1 1897 (June 2009), Quartier 4 (Kupferhütte) 1896 (August 2009) . Since August 2009, users far from the port have settled here, especially the media.

Here is the location of numerous television studios, in which u. a. the TV shows today show , Harald Schmidt , TV total , Schlag den Raab , Luke! The week and me or what are you watching ?! are or have been recorded. In the port of Mülheim, a separate Veedel was created for the series Die Anrheiner , which was dismantled in 2013 after the last episode. Since January 2010, the Bastei-Lübbe publishing group has been located in Schanzenstrasse under the new name of Bastei Lübbe GmbH & Co. KG. Since January 31, 2014, the studios of Radio Köln have been located at Schanzenstrasse 28 .


Painting group "Mülheimer Freiheit"

In 1979 a new group of neo-expressionist painters was formed in a backyard studio in the house “Mülheimer Freiheit Nr. 110”, who named themselves “Mülheimer Freiheit” after this address. The Cologne gallery owner Paul Maenz had the idea for this name . The group consisted of Hans Peter Adamski , Peter Bömmels , Walter Dahn , Jiří Georg Dokoupil , Gerard Kever and Gerhard Naschberger . From 1979 to 1982 Paul Maenz represented the young artists on the international market. In 1984 the group disbanded.


  • 1815–1819: Karl Brünninghausen
  • 1820: Franz Joseph Nuß (acting mayor, February to December)
  • 1820–1830: Karl Joseph Alster
  • 1831–1836: Alois Mathias Böcker
  • 1836–1844: Peter Joseph Maßen
  • 1844–1863: Johann Heinrich Bau
  • 1852–1875: Ludwig Blin
  • 1874–1876: Viktor Kaifer
  • 1876–1908: Friedrich Wilhelm Steinkopf (Mayor since October 25, 1898)
  • 1909–1914: Bernhard Clostermann (since September 3, 1914 unpaid alderman of the city of Cologne)

Honorary citizen

  • Friedrich Wilhelm Steinkopf (1842–1911), Mayor of Mülheim from 1876 to 1908, elected honorary citizen on December 7, 1907 on the occasion of his thirty-year service anniversary.

See also


  • Bernd Franco Hoffmann: The Bergisch-Märkische Eisenbahn. Through the valleys of Wupper, Ruhr and Volme ; Sutton-Verlag, Erfurt, 2015, ISBN 978-3954005802 .
  • Cologne on the right bank of the Rhine. Yearbook for history and regional studies . Volume 5, 1979, p. 76.
  • Johann Bendel : The city of Mülheim am Rhein. History and description, sagas and tales. Mülheim am Rhein 1913.
  • Johann Bendel: The costume of God at Mülheim am Rhein . Mülheim am Rhein 1914.
  • Johann Bendel: The district of Mülheim am Rhein. Description, story, sagas and tales. Mülheim am Rhein 1911.
  • Johann Bendel: Homeland book of the district of Mülheim am Rhein. History and description, sagas and tales. Cologne-Mülheim 1925.
  • Heinz Hermanns: The Chamber of Commerce for the district of Mülheim am Rhein 1871-1914 and the economy of the Cologne-Mülheim area. Published by the Rheinisch-Westfälisches Wirtschaftsarchiv in Cologne 1969.
  • Dieter Höltge, Axel Reuther: Trams and light rail vehicles in Germany . Vol. 7, Aachen, Düren, Cologne , EK-Verlag , Freiburg 2001, ISBN 3-88255-338-3 .
  • Bernhard Kempkes: Cologne-Mülheim in old pictures . Sutton Verlag , 2002, ISBN 3-89702-492-6 .
  • Georg Dehio , Ruth Schmitz-Ehmke and Ernst Gall : Handbook of German Art Monuments - Rhineland. Wissenschaftliche Buchgesellschaft , Darmstadt 1967, pp. 412-414.
  • Henriette Meynen (ed.): Fortress city of Cologne. The bulwark in the west . Herman-Josef Emons Verlag , Cologne 2010, ISBN 978-3-89705-780-7 .
  • State Conservator Rhineland: List of Monuments 12.7 Cologne District 9 (Mülheim) . Cologne 1979, pp. 84-140.
  • Stefan Pohl, Georg Mölich: Cologne on the right bank of the Rhine. Its history from antiquity to the present. Wienand, Cologne 1994, ISBN 3-87909-391-1 .
  • Ilse Prass: Mülheim am Rhein. City history in street names. 1988, ISBN 3-7616-0935-3 .
  • Vincent of Zuccalmaglio : History and description of the city and the district of Mülheim a. R. Cologne 1846.

Web links

Commons : Köln-Mülheim  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. The following after: Historical Archive of the City of Cologne: When was Mülheim am Rhein first mentioned in a document? In: On the history of Cologne, part 4 (suburbs) . Quoted there: Th. J. Lacomblet : Document book for the history of the Lower Rhine , Bd. 1, Düsseldorf 1840. V. von Zuccalmaglio: History and description of the city and the district of Mülheim , Mülheim 1846, reprint Cologne 1981. J. Bendel: The City of Mülheim am Rhein , Mülheim 1913, reprint Cologne 1972 and 1981, pp. 11–15.
  2. ^ Evidence for Hermülheim can be found in Th.J. Lacomblet: Urkundenbuch ... , Vol. 1, No. 281 and 338.  FW Oediger : The Regesta of the Archbishops of Cologne in the Middle Ages , Vol. 1, Bonn 1957, No. 1227. R. Knipping: The Regesta of the Archbishops ... , Vol. 2, Bonn 1901, No. 119, 192 and 373. B. Hilliger: Urbare von St. Pantaleon , Bonn 1902, pp. 78, 110 and register.
  3. Rhenish document book. Older documents up to 1100 , Vol. 2, Düsseldorf 1994, No. 308, p. 315f.
  4. H. Mosler: Document book of Altenberg Abbey , Vol. 1, Bonn 1912, No. 6, 5 and 8.
  5. ^ R. Knipping: The Regesta of the Archbishops ... , Vol. 2, No. 28, p. 44.
  6. Illustration by Frans Hogenberg from 1613: Actual illustration of the newly started Statt Mullheim ... ( digitized version )
  7. Peter Simons: Illustrated history of Deutz, Kalk, Vingst and Poll. Nagelschmidt, Cöln – Deutz 1913, p. 102ff. Poller heads and willows
  8. ^ History and Heimatverein Rechtsrheinisches Köln: Yearbook for History and Regional Studies, Volume 19 , self-published, Cologne, 1992
  9. Carl Dietmar: Mülheim fought in vain . Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger of July 28, 1984, p. 20.
  10. Inhabitants according to selected age groups - data source: City of Cologne - offenedaten-koeln.de
  11. Inhabitants according to selected age groups - data source: City of Cologne - offenedaten-koeln.de
  12. Inhabitants by type of migration background - data source: City of Cologne - offenedaten-koeln.de
  13. Employed and unemployed part of the city - data source: City of Cologne - offenedaten-koeln.de
  14. Uwe Schäfer: St. Clemens in Mülheim now also shines at night , Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger, December 25, 2015.
  15. http://www.kirche-koeln.de/aktuell/artikel.php?id=2590&archiv ( Memento from May 23, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
  16. ^ Parish Saint Clemens and Mauritius - Herz Jesu Kirche. Retrieved June 10, 2013 .
  17. Our Lady. Retrieved May 2, 2020 .
  18. Susanne Zimmermann: When the sun shines, the fine cracks appear in the stone. Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger from May 14, 1992 (Pohlsche's house).
  19. Contact details of the school accessed on June 9, 2019
  20. DB route number 2730/2652/9
  21. DB route number 2650
  22. DB route number 2663 Technical University of Dresden , route archive
  23. ^ The Cologne shipyard Deutz (KSD) in October 2004. March 15, 2005, accessed on September 21, 2010 .
  24. List of experts for loading and unloading hoses. (No longer available online.) In: Electronic Waterways Information Service (ELWIS). Federal Waterways and Shipping Administration, August 17, 2010, archived from the original on December 2, 2014 ; Retrieved September 21, 2010 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.elwis.de
  25. E-Werk history. Köln Event Veranstaltungsgesellschaft mbH, accessed on September 21, 2010 : "Members of the Cologne band BAP (came up with the idea of ​​setting up a new venue")
  26. Palladium Cologne - facts and figures. Köln Event Veranstaltungsgesellschaft mbH, accessed on September 21, 2010 : "The Palladium offers space for 4,000 people"
  27. ^ Palladium: Alternative quarters for Cologne Opera? (No longer available online.) In: koeln.de archive area, article from June 6, 2008. NetCologne on behalf of the City of Cologne, formerly in the original ; accessed on September 21, 2010 : "Subcommittee of the City Council votes for the Mülheim model"
  28. "We weren't the sex pistols of painting" . Interview by Michael Kohler with Walter Dahn , published on February 6, 2016 in the ksta.de portal , accessed on February 7, 2016