Rivalry between Cologne and Düsseldorf

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The terms rivalry between Cologne and Düsseldorf or rivalry between Düsseldorf and Cologne denote the competitive relationship between the two large cities in the Rhineland , which are just 40 kilometers apart on the Rhine. This rivalry is celebrated folklorically as "enmity" on a sporting and cultural level , but is based on historical and economic facts. While the larger Cologne developed from a Roman colony and later a free imperial city , the modern residential city of Düsseldorf , which emerged from a small medieval settlement, is now the capital of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia .

history

Battle of Worringen

With the history painting Walter Dodde and the Bergischen farmers at the Battle of Worringen , the Düsseldorf painter Peter Janssen the Elder created a catchy picture for the founding myth of the city of Düsseldorf. According to this, the founding of the city and its rise can be traced back to the valiant struggle of the Bergisch farmers against the Archbishop of Cologne.
Atlas section for the 13th century: while Cologne is shown, in the Düsseldorf area only Kaiserswerth, which today belongs to the city, is on the map.
Plan of Düsseldorf (around 1288)
Cologne in the 16th century

The battle of Worringen on June 5, 1288 is commonly cited as the root of the enmity between the two cities , but this is to be regarded as a " legend ".

In this battle, Siegfried von Westerburg , then Archbishop of Cologne , and Duke Johann I of Brabant, north of Cologne, faced each other in the Limburg succession dispute . On the side of the Brabant Duke, Count Adolf von Berg , the citizens of Cologne and an army of peasants from the Bergisch fought . Among the latter, some residents of the village may have been in the mouth of the Düssel , but this is not considered safe. While Cologne was already a medieval city ​​with more than 20,000 inhabitants and was more than 1200 years old when it was originally founded in Rome, Düsseldorf was until then a smaller settlement in the county of Berg with an estimated 200 to 400 inhabitants. Accordingly, the inhabitants of the two unequal villages did not fight against each other in this battle - as is often shown - but side by side.

Both places benefited from the outcome of the battle: after the archbishop's defeat, Cologne no longer belonged to his archbishopric , and the archbishop himself was only allowed to enter the city for religious acts. Düsseldorf, in turn, received city ​​rights from Duke Adolf von Berg on August 14, 1288 , but not out of “gratitude”, as it is rumored. The ruler recognized the strategically good location of the village on a flood-protected headland, and the Rhine formed a natural safeguard for the western border as well as a bulwark against Neuss, which was still archiepiscopal and at the time significantly larger .

Middle Ages and early modern times

The stack house (right) in Cologne, which still exists today (1900)

In the 13th century Cologne was the "undisputed metropolis of Germany" with trade relations in many European countries, which with a size "of around 20,000-25,000 inhabitants was at the top of all German cities". After the relics of the Three Kings came to the city in 1164 , for which a magnificent cathedral was built from 1248, Cologne also developed into an important pilgrimage city. In 1475 Cologne was raised to the status of a Free Imperial City . In 1499, Johann Koelhoff the Younger formulated the city's self-image in his chronicle : “Cöllen eÿn Kroÿn - Boven allen steden schoÿn” (“Cologne a crown - beautiful over all cities”).

One of the main reasons for the city's strong economic position was the so-called staple law , which Archbishop Konrad von Hochstaden issued to Cologne in 1259 . This right stipulated that goods that were shipped on the Rhine first had to be "stacked" (reloaded and stored) in Cologne and that the Cologne residents had a right of first refusal. This staple right has been expanded over the centuries, both territorially and in terms of the number of goods. Spatially, the right reached in the 18th century an extension of about 70 to 80 kilometers down the Rhine and 30 kilometers up the Rhine. The Düsseldorf economy was also affected by this situation.

In general, however, the future belonged to the cities on the Rhine, as the transport of goods on the river increased in the 14th century. Duke Wilhelm von Berg (1348–1408) recognized the signs of the times and began to develop and enlarge Düsseldorf, so that the city had 1500 to 2000 inhabitants in the 16th century. He had a new building erected for the Lambertus Church, equipped the associated monastery with relics to make the city an attractive place of pilgrimage , completed the fortification as a stone wall and expanded the castle as a mansion. The financial mainstay of this was the right granted to him by the king to raise the Bergisch Rhine toll, a privilege that he finally successfully enforced against resistance from Cologne. However, under the descendants of Wilhelm, the development of Düsseldorf came to a standstill.

In the 16th century, Cologne lost its economic supremacy because the city, which was surrounded by a fortress ring and had no hinterland, stuck to old trading structures with which it was increasingly unable to assert itself against the growing territorial rule. Cologne was "largely concerned with defending what had been achieved and managing what already existed, instead of relying on innovation and progress". An obstacle to trade turned out to be the accumulated indebtedness in times of war and crisis as well as the religious intolerance of Cologne residents : "Holy Cologne" (et hillije Kölle) was the only imperial city that adhered to the Catholic faith. This intolerance forced Protestant citizens - such as nine wealthy merchant families in 1714 - to cross the Rhine into Bergisch territory , which also included Düsseldorf, where they founded flourishing factories and trading houses. A widely visible symbol of the economic decline was the cathedral crane on the unfinished Cologne Cathedral , on which no further construction has been carried out since the 1530s due to lack of money. According to travel descriptions, the houses in Cologne were in very poor condition at that time, and the proportion of the poor in the population was comparatively high.

Düsseldorf, however, from 1614, after interruptions again the residence city of the Dukes of Jülich-Berg , developed in these years: “As a city that was politically, economically, militarily and socially dependent on the prince and focused on court and princely administration, Düsseldorf offered a completely different picture as Cologne. ”Under Johann Wilhelm II. (called Jan Wellem ) and his wife Anna Maria from the Italian Medici family , Düsseldorf had a heyday, as the prince, who resided in Düsseldorf Palace as elector from 1690 , further enlarged and expanded the city increased his court , which attracted more nobles to the city. Jan Wellem also further developed the city's infrastructure by paving and lighting streets and promoting the establishment of postal and shipping lines and factories ; The electoral couple set up a picture gallery, encouraged the settlement of renowned artists and from 1694 had an opera house built from their own funds - including Anna Maria's dowry of 400,000 Reichstalers .

After Jan Wellem's death in 1716, there was a brief economic slump in Düsseldorf, from which the city recovered under Prince Karl Theodor (1724–1799): “In contrast to Cologne, where every innovation was based on strong resistance from in the Gaffeln [guilds of craftspeople] organized citizenship and only a few progressive merchants advocated reforms, enlightened government politicians in Düsseldorf promoted liberal economic development. "

In 1786 the Düsseldorf producer of “ Mostert ” (spicy mustard), Johann Cornelius Bergrath, contradicted an advertisement in the Kölnisches Stadtbote that “true Düsseldorfer Mostert [...] could be had” in Cologne's Schildergasse , and also pointed out why “the ächte unadulterated Düsseldorfer Mostardt “can be recognized. Incidentally, his Düsseldorf mustard factory was later located in the “City of Cologne” building. Eau de Cologne, on the other hand, was also produced in Düsseldorf without protest, by the Farina family's Düsseldorf line .

Napoleon and Prussia

In 1794 Cologne was occupied by the troops of revolutionary France, and Düsseldorf the following year. While Cologne and the entire left bank of the Rhine became part of France, Düsseldorf remained occupied until 1801 . In 1806 it became the capital of the new Grand Duchy of Berg under Napoleon's brother-in-law Joachim Murat . From 1798 the Rhine formed a customs border, so that the markets on the left bank of the Rhine broke away for producers on the right bank of the Rhine, while the entire French area was open to duty-free trade for the Cologne residents. The Cologne “stacking right” remained in order to secure the income from the now French city; the strict guild rules, on the other hand, which had shaped Cologne's economy and society for centuries, were repealed.

Napoleon's entry into Düsseldorf on November 3, 1811

From November 2, 1811, Emperor Napoleon stayed in Düsseldorf for three days. He was received there in a particularly festive manner with military honors and a replica of the Arc de Triomphe . For his state visit , Jägerhof Palace was prepared as a royal residence. Napoleon's minister Pierre-Louis Roederer wrote to his wife that the celebrations in Düsseldorf had been the most glamorous of the emperor's state trip, and described the city as Little Paris . Napoleon traveled from Düsseldorf to Cologne, where he is said to have said: "Go to Düsseldorf and learn there how to receive an emperor." The reason for this (not guaranteed) statement is said to have been that the Cologne people had problems, enough men for them to get the honor guard together for the reception. The hope of the people of Düsseldorf that the French state would reduce the burden of customs and taxes after this visit was not fulfilled. In addition, 90 percent of the Düsseldorf men who were recruited for Napoleon's army fell in the wars he waged.

Napoleon's visit, however, had positive urban development effects on Düsseldorf. A few days after his visit, the emperor issued the so-called "embellishment decree", on the basis of which the demolition of the city fortifications, which began in 1801, received new impulses. They were redesigned into elegant promenades, including today's Königsallee , and the courtyard garden was extended to the banks of the Rhine. While lavish streets and gardens were laid out in Düsseldorf, Cologne remained in the “stranglehold” of the fortifications, which were even further expanded and hindered urban development in the long term. “Cologne was calm, and here everything was a bit more neighborly because of the narrowness […]. Düsseldorf offered [...] with its avenues, parks, gardens and luxury the outward appearance of a residential and garden city. "

After the reorganization of Europe at the Congress of Vienna , both cities were added to the Kingdom of Prussia in 1815 and from 1822 belonged to the newly created Rhine Province . The seat of the state provincial administration became Koblenz and the university moved to Bonn. In 1819 the Düsseldorf Art Academy was re-established . As an important artist movement of the 19th century, the Düsseldorf School of Painting was established there , which enriched the cultural life of the city in the long term and gave it the status of an international art center. In 1820 Prince Friedrich of Prussia became the commander of the 20th Division in Düsseldorf and settled with his family in Jägerhof Palace. The garrison and court holding in the following years were reminiscent of earlier times as a royal seat, and Prince Friedrich and his wife Luise promoted the city's social and cultural life. In 1824 the provincial parliament also took its seat in Düsseldorf. According to the historian Horst A. Wessel , all this meant an “unexpected setback” for Cologne: “Cologne received [...] no priority, not even a prominent position among the Prussian cities.” This feeling of disadvantage was hardly counteracted by the The Prussian state and its ruling house - supported by a broadly felt romantic reflection on historical roots and the Middle Ages - financially supported the further construction of Cologne Cathedral . Citizens of Düsseldorf also collected donations for the cathedral, the completion of which was felt to be a national task on the basis of rediscovered medieval facade cracks.

In 1843, during the pre- March period , the so-called " Cologne-Düsseldorfer Fraternization Festival " took place in Düsseldorf . This festival was a political demonstration by Rhenish citizens for the maintenance of the "Rhenish law" introduced by Napoleon . As “ Must Prussia ”, residents of Cologne and Düsseldorf expressed their mutual perceived distance from Prussia. In August 2001, the then Mayor of Cologne , Fritz Schramma, remembered the event Cologne + Düsseldorf: more than a utopia ... with an anecdote of this festival:

"[...] the Prussians tried to abolish the French civil code, the Code Napoleon . The entire Rhine Province protested violently against it. [...] When the people of Cologne heard that the provincial parliament in Düsseldorf had unanimously rejected the change in law, they spontaneously decided to take a boat to Düsseldorf. The people of Düsseldorf, on the other hand, greeted the people of Cologne enthusiastically with the following words: 'Cologne is our true metropolis; Cologne deserves to lead us. We acknowledge this call entirely and without envy '. Were those days! I thought when I read that. "

19th and 20th centuries

Gehry buildings at the customs port in Düsseldorf
Crane houses in the Rheinauhafen in Cologne

The real rivalry between the two cities of Düsseldorf and Cologne began with industrialization, as the quality of the location played an increasingly important role in the settlement of companies and businesses. Cologne compensated for the loss of stacking rights by relying on the modern rail transport and developing into a central transport hub. In 1825, the Cologne merchant Peter Heinrich Merkens founded the Preußisch-Rheinische Dampfschiffahrtsgesellschaft , a forerunner of today's Cologne-Düsseldorfer , which has its legal seat in Düsseldorf, but is administered from Cologne and, despite its name, does not have regular scheduled shipping between the two cities Has timetable. In Düsseldorf - "the sleepy art and garden city" - the path to modern economic and transport policy took place with a delay.

Both cities developed into “industrial cities” in the course of the 19th century, with Düsseldorf establishing itself as the “ desk of the Ruhr area ”, while in Cologne the focus was more on banking and insurance.

From the time before the First World War , there was a considerable increase in population in both cities, which was due on the one hand to the enormous immigration of people from rural areas - such as the Eifel or the Bergisches Land - but also to the incorporation of surrounding villages.

In the 1920s, the competition between the two cities was also characterized by the rivalry between their mayors : In Cologne this was Konrad Adenauer (Zentrum, 1917–1933) and in Düsseldorf Robert Lehr (DNVP, 1924–1933), both for her great self-confidence were known: "The fact that they were not always of one opinion and were concerned about their and their cities advantage speaks for their drive." For example, Adenauer campaigned heavily for his Düsseldorf colleague Lehr not to join the planning committee of the provincial committee Preparation of the Rhenish Millennium Celebration was called. Through the " seizure " of the Nazis , both men lost their office in 1933. After the Second World War , Lehr was one of the founders of the CDU and in 1950 became Minister under Adenauer.

After 1945, both cities claimed to have been immune to National Socialism as "Rhenish, Catholic and anti-Prussian" cities, which, however, has turned out to be a "modern fairy tale" according to recent research - in both Cologne and Düsseldorf, Nazi Terror with purges, conformity and exclusion like in every other German city. During the war, 90 percent of Cologne city center and 80 percent of other parts of the city were destroyed, whereas Düsseldorf was “only” 40 percent destroyed and many representative buildings were preserved. This and the proximity to the Ruhr area moved the British cabinet in 1946 to choose Düsseldorf as the capital of the newly created state of North Rhine-Westphalia .

In 1988, 700 years after the Battle of Worringen, a comparison of the two cities from an urban geographic point of view revealed that Cologne had its strengths as a transport hub on water, road and rail as well as in terms of the petrochemical pipe network , while Düsseldorf was ahead in air transport better positioned in the service industry. According to a 2011 ranking of the economic power of major German cities by the Institute of German Economics , Düsseldorf was in sixth place, while Cologne was in 34th place.

The mayor of Cologne, Schramma, advocated the thesis that Cologne and Düsseldorf could only live in partnership with one another if it was about "higher-level issues"; As an example he cited the joint application to host the 2012 Olympic Games . But as soon as it comes to direct competition, "controversies" arise:

“After the Second World War, however, questions of location, the settlement of central traffic objects or of institutions became a bone of contention between the two cities. It began with the question of whether the newly founded North Rhine-Westphalia would now need one or two airports and whether Düsseldorf airport should be preferred to Cologne airport. It was about the state capital, and it was about the establishment of the Rhineland Regional Council. "

- Fritz Schramma : City of Cologne

Population numbers (1140 to present)

Cologne
(2015: 405.01 km²)
year Residents
1140 20,000
1400 40,000
1600 40,000
1810 45,000
1867 125,000
1962 827,000
1974 ¹ 825,000
1975² 1,013,000
1976 ³ 981,000
2015 1,060,000
Düsseldorf
(2015: 217.41 km²)
year Residents
1140 ?
1288 300
1555 3,500
1816 14,000
1867 63,000
1962 705,000
1974 ¹ 618,000
1975² 664,000
1976 ³ 615,000
2015 612,000

¹ before regional reform 1975 and " Cologne law "
² after regional reform 1975 and "Cologne law"
³ after the spin-off of Wesseling (Cologne) and Monheim (Düsseldorf) in 1976

(Figures rounded off, 2015 information as of December 31, 2015)

As early as the Roman era Cologne had about 30,000 inhabitants; however, this number fell to around half in the 3rd century. In the 12th century, 20,000 people lived within the city walls again. After the relics of the Three Wise Men were transferred to Cologne and the city grew in importance as a pilgrimage town , the number of inhabitants rose again to 40,000. This number remained relatively constant until the 19th century.

At the time of the Battle of Worringen in 1288 and the subsequent granting of city rights, Düsseldorf had around 200 to 400 inhabitants. In the centuries that followed, the population increased slowly, albeit steadily. With the beginning of industrialization in the middle of the 19th century, the number of people living in Düsseldorf more than quadrupled, to 63,000. In the same period of time and for the same reason, the number of Cologne citizens tripled to 125,000, so that Cologne had twice as many inhabitants as Düsseldorf at that time.

As a result of incorporations and economic growth, both cities had six-digit population figures. With fluctuating numbers, Cologne has already been in the seven-digit range several times and is currently once again a “city of millions” (as of 2015).

Travelogues

The two Rhenish metropolises were often the focus of attention, especially in the travel reports popular in the 18th and 19th centuries . Moritz August von Thümmel , Minister of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld , wrote to the Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Coburg on June 6, 1772 : “In Cologne, where we stayed for a whole day to rest, we wished for our ten times Ship back. I can't remember seeing such an unpleasant place and I don't want to be emperor if I had to be crowned there. Imagine Ew. A filthy city three times as big as Erfurt and three times as dead; where there are a few churches and monasteries in every alley, where the constant ringing of bells and the sight of individual emaciated and ragged beggars tires the eye to death. We visited a Carthusian monastery there and were moved to the point of misery about the misery to which sensible people can voluntarily condemn themselves from imaginary worship. The next day we had an even more pleasant journey. We went through Düsseldorf a beautiful, lovely city. The first thing we visited there was the splendid picture gallery , where the Rubens occupy an entire room and most of the paintings by the inimitable van der Werff are kept. "

The royal Prussian War, Domain and Forestry Councilor Christian Friederich Meyer traveled through the Rhineland in 1793 and wrote his views of a journey through the Clevish and a part of the Dutch via Crefeld, Düsseldorff and Elberfeld, with some economic considerations, in 1794. Along with one second economic tour of the Rhine region from Wesel to Coblenz in June 1794 (the year is wrong). In it Meyer reported on the "multitudes of ragged beggars" in Cologne and praised the "working name" in the Bergisches Land , who was "therefore much more moral, healthier and happier" than "the idler in Cologne, where he is just a blind animal all the more dangerous the more systematically the idleness is driven ".

A French emigrant who stayed mainly in Wuppertal in 1792/1793 found Cologne “dark and sad”. The writer Georg Forster , who was also visiting Cologne at the same time, also used these words to describe the cathedral city and noted that almost half of the population, i.e. H. about 20,000 people, to be counted among the "rabble". And he drew the comparison: "What a world of difference between Cologne and this nice, clean, wealthy Düsseldorf!"

Particularly sharp was Ernst Moritz Arndt with the cathedral city to task. "Cologne is indisputably the oldest city in Germany, and it has always imagined not a little about this antiquity, and up to the most recent times stubbornly tried to preserve everything in customs and facilities that should have been old and out of date cheaply" was almost even the friendliest thing he had to say about Cologne, he also described the people of Cologne as “treacherous people” and “cold toads”. His contemporary Johann Kaspar Riesbeck , a German writer living in Switzerland, wrote to his brother in Paris : "Cologne, brother, is the most hideous city in Germany in every respect."

Quite a few travel writers attributed Cologne's backwardness to the Catholicism that dominated there ; The position of Protestantism was a “hot topic”, so for Pastor Joseph Gregor Lang : “A dozen workhouses, which one would soon see erected if the hands of the Protestant merchants were not tied by intolerant resistance, would like to easily clean the streets and Certainly steer the evil that only gave birth to idleness and laziness. ”He also mocked monastery churches that were“ grafted with all kinds of statues and pictures ”like“ Nuremberg booths ”. The Protestant historian Philipp Wilhelm Gercken, on the other hand, was of the opinion that other travelogues that criticized the lack of cleanliness in Cologne would “exaggerate” and “that I haven't found it so bad for a long time”.

Even in the Biedermeier era , the writer Karl Julius Weber wrote : "The cheerful Düsseldorf is doubly pleasing when you come from the dark Cologne."

Culture

carnival

Unsaleable goods: Kölle Helau

The folkloric rivalry between Cologne and Düsseldorf had its first origins in the carnival. For centuries the people of Cologne and Düsseldorf celebrated Carnival independently of each other. But in 1823 the Festordnenden Comité organized the first carnival “organized” by the citizens in Cologne . This model was followed in Düsseldorf, as in other Rhenish cities: “[…] in Düsseldorf, people didn't wait long to celebrate Carnival based on the Cologne model. A little envy of the big neighbor Cologne probably played a role in the effort to liven up the carnival days. ”But“ envy ”was not the only reason for their own carnival parades and events in Düsseldorf, Bonn and Aachen, but also economic interests: Carnival fans did not spend their money on festivities in their hometown, but drove to Cologne “in droves”, which prompted these cities to organize their own parades.

The Düsseldorf-based company only developed into serious competition for the Cologne carnival after the First World War , as the festival was an increasingly important economic factor and the fight for shares in this emerging “carnival industry” was fought. In 1937, however, the Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger read that “the Cologne Carnival was becoming more and more important for the Rhineland beyond the city, while the Carnival in Aachen, Bonn and Düsseldorf was a local event”.

A first testimony to the representation of the rivalry in the carnival is the design of a moving van from 1914: The artist Heinrich Recker presented the dispute over the construction of a planned electric high-speed train between Cologne and Düsseldorf as a fight between a 4711 bottle (Cologne) and a Senftube (Düsseldorf). The construction of the railway did not take place, but not because the cities had blocked themselves, but because initially the responsible minister feared for the monopoly of the Prussian state railways and refused permission, and finally the outbreak of the First World War continued the discussed construction finally prevented. In 1935, Düsseldorf was depicted sitting on mustard pots on a Cologne car design under the heading “Once a great lady”.

The carnival rituals in Dusseldorf and Cologne differ: So presides in Cologne the triumvirate of three men, each of which represents one as "virgin" woman. In Düsseldorf, on the other hand, there is a prince with a female “Venetia”. Here the fool's call is “Helau”, while in Cologne it is “Alaaf”. At the end of the festivities, the nubbel is burned in Cologne , in Düsseldorf it is the Hoppeditz .

The “enmity” is also cultivated musically: The Cologne group Domstürmer sings “The sun laughs over Cologne, the world over Düsseldorf” and prophesies that Altbier would make you sick. In the song “Da schwimm 'ne Kölner” (Da schwimm' ne Kölner ”), the Düsseldorf disharmonists were happy about renewed flooding in the cathedral city. Anyone who visited the website of the trio, which was dissolved in 2011, and pretended to be Cologne, received the message "Access denied".

A journalist from Düsseldorf wrote in Die Welt am Sonntag : “Sound vapors like those of the Höhner , BAP or the Bläck Fööss are not uncommon, which are not only served during Carnival time in Cologne, but make fun all year round. Now the carnival in itself is a punishment that makes you wonder what the people of Cologne may have done wrong, that God had to inflict such a plague on them in return. Anyone who gets into the hustle and bustle of Cologne's carnival quickly realizes that the Geneva Convention does not go far enough. "(The journalistic answer to this:" We Cologne seem almost harmless when we say that the Düsseldorfers are rich, snobbish, stupid snobbies drink their terrible brew at their silted Rhine water in their media harbor. ").

About initially obvious differences, the carnival is also different in character: Formative elements in Cologne, according to the head of the Carnival Monday procession Christoph Kuckelkorn , are - unlike in Dusseldorf - the integration back far traditions and strong roots in the population. This results in a more “balancing” and “folk” carnival in Cologne, in contrast to Düsseldorf, where the citizens are not involved to this extent. In this sense, the people of Cologne see the Düsseldorf Carnival as an “unnatural phenomenon” that has been “artificially created”. The Düsseldorfers love the “peppered political satire without regard for losses”, whereas the Cologne residents prefer the “tasteful political joke” that doesn't hurt too much, according to the analysis of the Düsseldorf car maker Jacques Tilly . Michael Euler-Schmidt and Marcus Leifeld describe the carnival relationship between the two cities as an “invigorating competitive relationship”, but despite all the competition, “there was and is always a friendly relationship”.

About the mutual attacks in the respective Rose Monday trains , the Cologne train conductor Kuckelkorn said: “The train doesn’t have to live through the provocation alone. That's what people in the north of Cologne do. I don't know the city exactly, but it has to be some village. "

Benrath line

Millowitsch dynasty, the nucleus in Düsseldorf's old town

In the book Streit am Rhein it says: “The 40 kilometers between the two cities have dug a chasm into the Rhineland, which is lovingly tended by Cologne and Düsseldorf residents.” There is actually a border between the two cities - the Benrath language line , the one to the south runs from Düsseldorf and differentiates the dialects of the two cities by means of sound shifts: For example, the High German word “make” in Kölsch is “maache” and in Düsseldorf flat it is “maken”, which is why one speaks of the “maken -machen line” . The Düsseldorfer Platt is one of the Lower Franconian dialects, Kölsch is one of the Ripuarian dialects .

Heinrich Heine from Düsseldorf was critical of both dialects: In Cologne, “Kobes” clang with “Marizzebill” in a dialect “that sounds like rotten eggs, almost smells”; he disqualified the language of his hometown, one could already notice it as "the frog croaking of the Dutch swamps".

Millowitsch family

In 1880 the father of the “Urkölschen” folk actor Willy Millowitsch was born in Düsseldorf , a fact that his son Peter finds “quite embarrassing”, since Düsseldorf is the “archenemy”. A memorial plaque created by Ulrich Grenzheuser as a bronze relief has been hanging on the birthplace of Peter Wilhelm Millowitsch , the traditional Uerige brewery in Düsseldorf, since 2000/01.

folklore

In 1958 the people of Cologne mocked in a brochure that around 1800, “while Cologne's fame and splendor was already known in every corner of the world”, only around 8,000 people lived at the mouth of the Düssel. In the contribution, the cliché was used that Düsseldorf - in contrast to Roman Cologne - was a "parvenu" and "upstart", "provided with all the attributes of the cultureless nouveau riche who is now trying to overtake the old cultural metropolis" . The reason for this publication is said to have been the envy of the Cologne people that jet planes were already allowed to land at Düsseldorf Airport - but not (yet) at Cologne / Bonn Airport .

This episode illustrates in an exemplary way the kind of teasing between the two cities, as well as the fact that this often emanates from Cologne. The Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger gave one possible reason for this : “Historically, the people of Cologne are always the offended.” In particular, the decision to designate Düsseldorf as the state capital in 1946 was diagnosed by the psychologist Stephan Grünewald as a “severe narcissistic offense” who was so proud of their past Cologne.

The rivalry between the two largest cities in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia is often portrayed in a striking way, for example with terms such as “the two divas on the Rhine” or “hostile sisters”.

Cultivating the rivalry

Campino , singer of the band Die Toten Hosen : "I'm not from Cologne"

In general, cities have to work on their differentiation in order to be able to assert themselves in competition with one another. In this competition there is experience and fear of contraction processes. It is therefore attempted to specifically bind the residents and win new ones. This only works if you show the reasons why, for example, one lives better in Cologne than in Düsseldorf - or vice versa.

Caricature: A man from Düsseldorf (right, with Kölsch) and a man from Cologne (with Alt) toast

While the city center of Düsseldorf lies on the right bank of the Rhine, the center of Cologne is to the left of the Rhine; in Cologne the right bank of the Rhine is known as Schäl Sick ("scheele side"). The beer in Cologne is called " Kölsch " and is light, that in Düsseldorf is called " Alt " and is dark. The soccer clubs 1. FC Köln and Fortuna Düsseldorf , the ice hockey clubs Kölner Haie and Düsseldorfer EG as well as the bands Die Toten Hosen and BAP form further “opposites” .

The Cologne cabaret artist Jürgen Becker said of the musical rivalry that in the “Dorf an der Düssel” “Tote Hose” had ruled for a very long time - which is why the most famous band from Düsseldorf chose this name. At a concert in Cologne, Die Toten Hosen played the song by Marius Müller-Westernhagen “I'm glad I'm not fat” - but with the text “I'm glad I'm not from Cologne”, which Wolfgang Niedecken from Cologne said The BAP group, on the other hand, found courageous: “You have to do that first.” The Cologne a cappella group Wise Guys countered with the song No, no, no! , in which the origin of the holiday acquaintance from the city, "where the beer tastes as it is called", is lamented.

In May 2016, the British singer Adele was confronted with the rivalry between the two cities at a concert in Cologne: When she brought a ten-year-old girl from Düsseldorf on stage, boos rang out from the audience, which Adele answered with "Shut up" . Later she asked why one didn't like Düsseldorf: “Can somebody enlighten me?” To the answer that “just be like that”, she recommended: “Get over it!” (“Overcome that!”)

There is a particularly bitter "hostility" between the two ice hockey clubs. Since the late 1970s, the duels between the two arch-rivals were often games for the German championship; both teams have so far won the championship eight times (as of 2016). As part of the mutual taunts, DEG had two plastic sharks auctioned off in front of a local derby on eBay at the end of December 2015 : "Not all teeth are there, so often no longer really biting." A campaign by Campino and some Düsseldorfers on 19. October 2018, which put a DEG logo on the roof of the team bus of the Kölner Haie during the 220th ice hockey derby between the Düsseldorfer EG and the Kölner Haien. The action went unnoticed by the Kölner Haien for several days and inadvertently used the bus to advertise the Düsseldorfer EG.

While fan articles from the neighboring, rival football club Borussia Mönchengladbach were certainly on offer in the shops and department stores in Düsseldorf , in autumn 2017 an editor of the Rheinische Post searched in vain for articles from 1. FC Köln . A Kaufhof employee suspected: “The rivalry between Düsseldorf and Gladbach is already great. But if we were still wearing Cologne jerseys, they would probably have holes quickly ”.

In 2005 the Cologne-based Emons Verlag published the book Everything you need to know about Düsseldorf ; it had blank pages. You can also buy a "Kölsch" key for the computer keyboard in Cologne, in order to exchange it for the Alt key . Students at Cologne University of Applied Sciences , on the other hand, created a website with the title “Cologne loves Düsseldorf and Düsseldorf loves Cologne”. Her summary: “The widespread view that between the residents of the Rhenish metropolis and those of the state capital of North Rhine-Westphalia there is a feeling that lies somewhere between deeply felt antipathy and apartheid is wrong. The error is possibly based on a lack of insight into historical events, incorrect interpretation of hand-made speeches, propaganda by separatists on the left bank of the Rhine or a complete ignorance of Rhenish humor. "

In his book Lost in Germany, the journalist Brian Melican describes the two major cities in the Rhineland from a British perspective: “The self-proclaimed 'most beautiful city on the Rhine', I claim, only feels obliged to itself. Just like the neighbor. Cologne also considers itself to be an independent planet. ”Düsseldorf was, according to his impression,“ since the Big Bang ”the“ arguing partner ”of Cologne, which reminds Melican of the hostility between France on the one hand and the British and Germany on the other. He is always amazed at the fierceness of their rivalry: “In my mind's eye, I always see Cologne and Düsseldorf as two gangsters who meet at night on the fog-shrouded banks of the Rhine and exchange mafioso slogans with glowing sticks in the corner of their mouths like: 'This river plain is not big enough for both of us' [...]. "

The cabaret artist Konrad Beikircher reports in the chapter War in the Neandertal of his book Et kütt wie't kütt. The Rhenish constitution , how taxi drivers from the other cities are supposedly misled by the taxi offices in Düsseldorf and Cologne when they ask about the way.

"Forbidden City"

Residents of both cities refer to the other as the "Forbidden City"; In Cologne it is considered taboo to pronounce the word "Düsseldorf".

“Cathedral or castle tower, Hohe Straße or Kö, state or carnival capital - it's easy to see: This is a comparison with the 'forbidden city'. The city with D, the area of ​​which every Cologne resident naturally only enters with pain. The city to avoid if possible. And which one would never say is beautiful. And for us Cologne residents it is of course clear: we never, never, really never (!!!) drink Altbier. "

- Verena Schüller : Kölnische Rundschau , December 9, 2011

In Cologne vernacular it is also spread that people from Düsseldorf need a visa to visit the cathedral city, and there are anecdotes about the return journey:

“Cologne is adequately signposted in downtown Düsseldorf - it is almost impossible to get lost here. In Cologne, on the other hand, you have to know that Neuss is near Düsseldorf and follow the signs to get there. The comment of the Cologne Road Traffic Office: 'We cannot rule out that there are still signs [to Düsseldorf] from the 1930s.' According to Lord Mayor Schramma, nobody has missed the signs yet. "

- Jutta Gay / Stephan Meyer : Dispute on the Rhine. The book about Cologne and Düsseldorf

advertising

Haulage vehicle in Düsseldorf: "Moves worldwide ... also to Cologne", 2016
Chocolate advertising 01.jpg
Advertising at Cologne Central Station (2017)

The mutual prejudices between Cologne and Düsseldorf residents are also addressed in advertising.

For years the Kölsch brewery Früh has been advertising with mottos that repeatedly target Düsseldorf, its Altbier and its residents, such as “Now also in the most important villages around Cologne”, “Not a bit old” or “To relieve the A3 now also in Düsseldorf ”. The Sprüche came up with an advertising agency from Düsseldorf. A counter-campaign followed: "Early practice is what an old wants to be."

Even McDonald's has become made use of the theme and recruited 2010 in Dusseldorf about for McWraps with the saying "Try it before a Cologne does." In Cologne, there were the same posters, only that from the "Cologne" now a "Düsseldorf" was. The website Expedia called both cities to a point duel (Düsseldorf won 5: 4).

In 2012, the Cologne Zoo self-deprecatingly advertised Düsseldorf visitors with the motto: “Take a look at the Cologne monkeys.” A Düsseldorf forwarding company, on the other hand, promises “Moves worldwide ... also to Cologne”. An online undertaker advertised on posters at Cologne Messe / Deutz train station with the message: "Every hour a Düsseldorf citizen dies", although it remains open whether the message is aimed at Cologne or Düsseldorf residents.

The DB Regio NRW was in 2013 a train attendant on advertising notice boards have their say, "If I drive as Cologne daily to Dusseldorf, I'm only doing this for you!" The operation of vehicles with the inscription " S-Bahn Cologne " to station Dusseldorf airport terminal is said to have been received with astonishment in the state capital , according to the Solinger Tageblatt .

A discount chain advertised in Düsseldorf in 2017 with large posters: “Time to reconcile. Kölle Alaaf. "The largest Düsseldorf daily newspaper found the following comment appropriate:" Hello!?! Are you still okay, you creative heads? Reconciliation is all well and good, but to put the bad word on Düsseldorf's access roads is a slap in the face for Düsseldorf's tolerant jerks ”.

Balance sheets

In the book Düsseldorf - Köln from 2012, the only scientific work to date devoted to the subject of the rivalry between the two cities, the historian and former head of the Düsseldorf City Archives, Clemens von Looz-Corswarem , sums up:

“Today Düsseldorf and Cologne are two [...] cities of equal weight. […] In historical comparison, Düsseldorf has achieved the greater economic output in the past three centuries. Cologne, on the other hand, was able to retain its historically grown cultural uniqueness (whereby "cultural" in no way only refers to high culture), which has led to the emergence of a special quality of life. "

- Clemens von Looz-Corswarem : Cologne - Düsseldorf. A historical comparison of two cities in the Rhineland

Horst A. Wessel (a native of Bonn who first worked in Cologne and then in Düsseldorf), in turn, sums up the differences and their consequences:

“Düsseldorf is finer and more aloof, Cologne more popular and cozy. What distinguishes the two cities, which are primarily 'Rhenish', are mainly their historically shaped peculiarities and above all their history. The identification and self-confidence of its residents is based on this - and a good part of their 'rivalry' grows from this. Incidentally, one is pragmatic enough to work together when it serves the common benefit, on the other hand to build up the tension when it strengthens the powers of self-discovery without really hurting the other [...]. "

- Horst A. Wessel : What remains? - A résumé

literature

  • Annette Fimpeler (Ed.): Düsseldorf Cologne. A neat rivalry . Greven Verlag, Cologne 2012, ISBN 978-3-7743-0488-8 .
  • Jens Prüss: Düsseldorf vs. Cologne. Cologne vs. Dusseldorf . Droste Verlag, Düsseldorf 2010, ISBN 978-3-7700-1391-3 .
  • Horst A. Wessel: Cologne mustard and Düsseldorf water. Rhenish neighbors competition . Issue 3 of the series of publications by the Schifffahrt-Museum Düsseldorf. Edited by the Association of Friends and Patrons of the SchifffahrtMuseum im Schlossturm e. V., Düsseldorf 2013.

Web links

Commons : rivalry between Cologne and Düsseldorf  - collection of images, videos and audio files

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This article was added to the list of excellent articles on May 30, 2016 in this version .