Berlin-Wilmersdorf

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Wilmersdorf
district of Berlin
Berlin Halensee Westend Grunewald Schmargendorf Wilmersdorf Charlottenburg Charlottenburg-NordWilmersdorf on the map of Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
About this picture
Coordinates 52 ° 29 ′ 0 ″  N , 13 ° 19 ′ 0 ″  E Coordinates: 52 ° 29 ′ 0 ″  N , 13 ° 19 ′ 0 ″  E
height 43  m above sea level NN
surface 7.16 km²
Residents 102,619 (Dec. 31, 2019)
Population density 14,332 inhabitants / km²
Postcodes 10707, 10709, 10713, 10715, 10717, 10719, 10777, 14197
District number 0402
Administrative district Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf

Wilmersdorf is a district in the Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf district of Berlin . The historic core of Alt-Wilmersdorf is on the Wilhelmsaue street. Until the merger with the former Charlottenburg district in 2001, there was an independent district of Wilmersdorf in the western part of Berlin . This included the current districts of Halensee , Schmargendorf , Grunewald and the eponymous district of Wilmersdorf.

Geographical location and town planning

Wilmersdorf is located on the Teltow plateau in the southwest of today's Berlin. It is bordered to the north by the district of Charlottenburg , in the west on the districts Halensee and Schmargendorf , on the south by the district of Steglitz-Zehlendorf belonging districts Steglitz ( Breitenbachplatz and south sides of Kreuznacher road ) and Dahlem and to the east to Tempelhof-Schöneberg belonging districts of Friedenau (at the Rheingauviertel ) and Schöneberg .

The Wilmersdorfer Carstenn figure in today's road network

Between Olivaer Platz and Cicerostraße, Kurfürstendamm forms the northern border to the neighboring district of Charlottenburg, so that the house numbers of the boulevard on the southern side of the street already belong to Wilmersdorf at this height.

The so-called Wilmersdorfer Carstenn figure by Johann Anton Wilhelm von Carstenn was created on the site of the former Wilmersdorf manor from 1870 as the urban planning center of the district .

The peculiarity of the Carstenn figure is characterized by a generously laid out Mittelallee (laid out between 1872 and 1874 under the name Kaiserstraße , from 1874 to 1950: Kaiserallee , from 1950: Bundesallee ) with streets running towards it, which in turn are captured by four symmetrical decorative squares , namely Nikolsburger Platz , Fasanenplatz , Nürnberger Platz and Prager Platz .

During the Second World War , the buildings on the eastern side of the Wilmersdorfer Carstenn figure were badly damaged. The urban planning of the 1960s with the car-friendly expansion of Bundesallee, Spichernstrasse and Nürnberger Platz also destroyed the image of a closed, symmetrical ensemble, so that the figure is barely recognizable even from the air.

The area west of the Bundesallee suffered significantly less damage, so that the old urban structure can be seen much better here. Nikolsburger Platz and Fasanenplatz were preserved as central decorative places .

history

Auenkirche with the former Wilmersdorfer See around 1900

Settlement history

It was founded probably by 1220 as part of the national expansion of the young Mark Brandenburg , to their stabilization askanischen Marquis settlers called into the country. A village of the Slavic pre-population very likely did not exist here. Wilmerstorff was first mentioned in a document in 1293 . It was owned by the Uradelsfamilie of Wilmer Dorff .

Settlers from Swabia , Thuringia , Flanders and Westphalia living from agriculture and fishing in the Wilmersdorfer lake , which for glacial glacial trough of Grunewaldseenkette belonged and 1915 after long silting processes was filled. After changing ownership, Wilmersdorf became a lordly dominial property , while Schmargendorf fell to the von Wilmersdorff family. Extensive sheep breeding has long been the focus of the work.

Millions of farmers in the early days

Condominium Wilmersdorf of the civil service housing association to Berlin, from 1902 by Erich Kohn built

In the middle of the 18th century, the first Berliners in the rapidly growing city acquired land and farmhouses in "Deutsch-Wilmersdorf" and set up summer residences in the Wilhelmsaue , the original village center, which is now between Mehlitzstrasse and Blissestrasse . In the middle of the 19th century, land speculators, construction investors and the space-dependent Ringbahn bought their fields from various large farmers who, thanks to the unexpected financial blessing, went down in history as " millions of farmers ", such as the Gieseler and Mehlitz families. Otto Schramm established its reputation as a seaside resort in Wilmersdorf with the bathing establishment at Wilmersdorfer See and the Schramm dance palace .

The Eva Lichtspiele were founded in 1913. This era ended when the lake was filled in. Sports fields were built on the lake grounds, which were incorporated into the Wilmersdorf Volkspark green corridor in the 1920s . This inner-city green corridor in the formerly swampy lowlands (Fenn) extends from the neighboring Schöneberg Rudolph-Wilde-Park over the Fennsee to the city ​​motorway . The so-called "Schrammblock" was built on the grounds of the bathing establishment between 1925 and 1928 according to plans by the architect Jürgen Bachmann . The residential complex with one of the first large underground garages, courtyard terraces and front gardens fills the entire square between the streets Am Volkspark , Schrammstraße , Hildegardstraße and Livländische Straße in one building.

Historical core: Wilhelmsaue

After school care center of the Comenius School in the former Blissestift from 1911

Another large farming family, the Blisse family (namesake of Blissestrasse), enabled the construction of an orphanage, the "Blissestift" in Wilhelmsaue , in 1911 with a foundation worth three million marks (adjusted for purchasing power in today's currency: around 17 million euros). Various municipal facilities are now housed in the historic building, including a school day care center and an all-day care facility .

Also in the Wilhelmsaue is the Auenkirche from the years 1895 to 1897. The neo - Gothic three - aisled brick building with the colored Christ mosaic above the entrance portal comes from Max Spitta and replaced the old Wilmersdorfer village church from 1772, whose predecessor fell victim to the fire of 1766. At Wilhelmsaue 126 is the oldest house in Wilmersdorf, the Schoeler-Schlösschen from 1752, which - like the adjoining small Schoelerpark - bears the name of its last resident, the ophthalmologist and medical advisor Heinrich Schoeler (1844–1918).

As a district of Berlin

In the 19th century, the name Deutsch Wilmersdorf was used to distinguish the village between Märkisch Wilmersdorf and Wendisch Wilmersdorf . On April 1, 1906, the municipality received town charter and the official name Deutsch-Wilmersdorf. On April 1, 1907, Deutsch-Wilmersdorf left the Teltow district and became an independent urban district . The first and only mayor and, after 1909, also mayor was Ernst Habermann (1866-1958), who had held the office of mayor since 1897 and later became the namesake of Habermannplatz.

From 1912 the city was called Berlin-Wilmersdorf . October 1, 1920, the city as was Wilmersdorf for Greater Berlin incorporated; at that time it already had 139 468 inhabitants.

The Jewish Wilmersdorf

Memorial plaque at the former location of the Prinzregentenstrasse synagogue

During the Weimar Republic, the district had a strong Jewish population; In 1933 it was 13.5%. Of the high school students, 30% were Jewish, there were five Jewish private schools. Many well-known artists and writers lived in Wilmersdorf, including George Grosz , Egon Erwin Kisch , Heinrich Mann , Anna Seghers and Arnold Zweig . A memorial stone commemorates the Reich Foreign Minister Walter Rathenau , who was murdered by right-wing extremists in 1922 on Koenigsallee in Grunewald . The Jewish community initially held its services in private synagogues ; In 1929 a large community synagogue was built on Prinzregentenstrasse , which could accommodate 2,300 visitors. The building was partially destroyed by SA troops in the so-called " Reichspogromnacht " from November 9th to 10th, 1938 , the remains of the building were removed in 1958. A plaque commemorates the Wilmersdorf synagogue on the residential buildings located here today.

In 2007, the Chabad Jewish Education Center was opened on Münsterschen Strasse for the growing Jewish community. In addition to a kindergarten, a school and a kosher restaurant, it also houses a synagogue.

time of the nationalsocialism

Forced laborers from various nations were housed in Wilhelmsaue 40 during the Second World War . As several documents show, it was a warehouse under the direction of the Wilmersdorf district office at the time.

Mayor of Wilmersdorf

Period Surname
1875-1877 Westhoff
1877-1886 Robert Heinrich Eduard Wegener
1886-1892 Karl August Bernhard Güntzel
1892-1897 Friedrich Wilhelm Karl Stork
1897-1921 Ernst Habermann (from 1906 mayor, from 1909 mayor)

Source: District Office Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf

Districts and city quarters

Wilmersdorf district with selected locations

Ludwigkirchplatz

The area around Ludwigkirchplatz , between Lietzenburger Straße in the north and Hohenzollerndamm in the south, with the eponymous St. Ludwig's Church , is characterized by gastronomy and the proximity to Kurfürstendamm . The Kiez , sometimes referred to in the media as "Fasanenkiez", is primarily the area where the district goes out; In addition to numerous restaurants, there are many cafes, bars and retail outlets.

To the east of Ludwigkirchplatz, between Fasanenplatz and Bundesallee , you will find the Haus der Berliner Festspiele , the Bar every reason and the arts faculty of the University of the Arts.

Güntzelkiez

The area south of Hohenzollerndamm , between Brandenburgischer Strasse , Bundesallee and Berliner Strasse , is generally known as Güntzelkiez , named after the central Güntzelstrasse and the adjacent subway station of the same name . The quarter is characterized by several well-preserved streets from the Wilhelminian era and the jewelry squares Hohenzollernplatz and Nikolsburger Platz .

Prague square

The Prager Platz , east of Federal Avenue , in 1870 created as Schmuckplatz and has long been one of the cultural centers in West Berlin. During the Second World War , the square and the surrounding area were almost completely destroyed and then lay fallow . The streets surrounding it and the nearby Nürnberger Platz were made suitable for cars in the 1960s in order to facilitate access to the City West to the north . In 1987, on the occasion of the 750th anniversary of Berlin , the square was redesigned from an aesthetic point of view. Today it is again a lively district center with supermarkets, restaurants, cafes and a shopping center. It is also a recreational and leisure area for the surrounding residential areas.

Fehrbelliner Platz

The area around Fehrbelliner Platz was largely undeveloped until the 1920s. In the north of the square, the Preußenpark was laid out in 1904/05 (initial names first Platz D then Preußen-Platz ). The residential area there was built in the Bauhaus style. Most of the streets were named after provinces of the German Empire , such as Sächsische Strasse , Pommersche Strasse or Württembergische Strasse. Further north you get to Kurfürstendamm with the Schaubühne on Lehniner Platz , which at this point forms the northern border of the district. Also in the 1920s, the first government buildings were erected on Fehrbelliner Platz. The subway connection of the same name was opened in 1913. Large-scale expansions of the square took place under the National Socialists , most recently with the new Wilmersdorf Town Hall , which was completed in 1943. In the southern vicinity of the square is Germany's oldest mosque, the so-called Wilmersdorfer Mosque , which was built in 1924 on an initiative of Muslim students living in Berlin. Berlin Widely known and loved is the so-called Thai meadow in Prussia park , a allwöchentliches picnic on Sunday, East Asian descent in which people from all over Berlin gather in the park to offer at improvised stalls dishes from their countries of origin.

Wilhelmsaue

The Schoeler-Schlösschen is the oldest preserved building in Wilmersdorf

The Wilhelmsaue with the Auenkirche and the Schoeler-Schlösschen is the old town center of the former rural community Wilmersdorf.

The Berliner Straße , the historic connecting road between Wilmersdorf and Old Berlin , runs north of Wilhelmsaue and is still one of the main traffic arteries in the district. To the south of the Wilhelmsaue lies the Volkspark Wilmersdorf , in place of the former Wilmersdorfer See , once on the outskirts of the historic rural community of Wilmersdorf. As a result of the increasingly urban environment of the historic town center, the lake was drained in 1915 due to heavy pollution and increasing siltation. In contrast, the Fennsee , which borders the Volkspark to the west, has stood the test of time .

Bundesplatz

In 1950 Kaiserplatz and Kaiserallee were renamed Bundesplatz and Bundesallee to emphasize West Berlin's affiliation with the Federal Republic . The former Kaiserplatzviertel was built around the square from 1888 . The quarter was designed primarily for upper-class living with spacious apartments and was largely retained in its former form, especially west of Bundesplatz. Unlike the Bundesplatz itself, which, like the Bundesallee, was redesigned to make it suitable for cars in the 1960s, which largely made the former park-like character of the square disappear. The quarter became famous through the long-term documentary Berlin - Ecke Bundesplatz , which filmed selected residents from 1986 to 2012 and documented a quarter of a century of contemporary Berlin history.

Rheingauviertel

The Rheingauviertel was completed shortly before the First World War as a country house colony based on the English model and has been preserved in this form almost unchanged to this day. The streets are named after cities and towns in the Rheingau and in the motifs of the decorative elements on the facades there are numerous references to viticulture in the eponymous region. Around the central Rüdesheimer Platz there is a colorful mix of gastronomy and retail. In the summer months, the Rheingau wine fountain is located on the square every year , where different wineries from the Rheingau offer sparkling wine and wine.

For the New York Times , the Rüdesheimer Straße flanking the square is one of the twelve most beautiful streets in Europe.

Artist colony

In the south of the Rheingauviertel is the artist colony , historically consisting of three large-scale Bauhaus-style blocks of flats . The settlement was built by the Cooperative of German Stage Members (GDBA) and the Protection Association of German Writers from 1927 and has housed numerous writers and other cultural workers throughout its history. Above all, the houses should be functional and offer affordable living space and thus represent a contrast to the spacious Rheingauviertel in the north or the upper-class streets of Steglitz in the south . At the same time, the concept of the “garden city” of the Rheingauviertel was continued here. There was no building on the backyard, instead the inner block areas were laid out as green courtyards. In the center of the colony, Ludwig-Barnay-Platz, formerly Laubenheimer Platz, which is also lushly green , was laid out as a meeting center for the residents.

The original plan was to build a fourth apartment block in the direction of Breitenbachplatz . However, this was stopped by the Nazis after the " seizure of power ". In March 1933 there were raids and arrests as well as book burnings of “Communist and Marxist” literature by the SA on the central Lauenheimer Platz . After the war, the settlement was supplemented by additional apartment blocks, which, however, mainly served to procure the urgently needed housing in the post-war years and did not fit in with the architectural concept of the garden city.

Embassies

In the district there are embassies and diplomatic missions from the following countries:

Parks and gardens

traffic

Transportation

In Wilmersdorf which are underground stations of line U9

and the underground stations on the U3 line

The U7 crosses the paths of the lines U3 and U9 and holds in Wilmersdorf the following subway stations:

The S-Bahn trains on the S41, S42 and S46 ring lines stop at the following Wilmersdorfer train stations:

While the S-Bahn station Berlin-Wilmersdorf has been called Bundesplatz since the day the southern ring line was reopened on December 17, 1993, like the underground station on the U9 line below , the one on the suburb of Friedenau between the S-Bahn stations Innsbrucker Platz and Freight station in Berlin-Wilmersdorf , located on Bundesplatz, abandoned in the 1970s.

Private transport

A busy connection through Wilmersdorf is the section of the A 100 city motorway , which runs between junctions 14 - Schmargendorf (formerly: Wilmersdorf motorway junction ) and 17 - Innsbrucker Platz . At junction 14, the former A 104 leads south to Steglitz. Part of it is a feeder to the A 100 and is built over with residential buildings on Schlangenbader Strasse . Other important traffic arteries in Wilmersdorf are

Buildings

Sacred building

Churches

Mosques

  • Wilmersdorfer Moschee (historically: Berlin mosque ), the oldest existing mosque in Germany. Erected in 1924 in place of a previous building from 1915.

Synagogues

Theaters and venues

Higher educational institutions

schools

The Goethe-Gymnasium is an ancient language, humanistic grammar school and is one of the best-known secondary schools in Berlin

Youth welfare

From 1980 to 2000 the district office (youth department) operated the nationally known youth counseling service JOKER .

Stumbling blocks (selection)

Personalities

The composer Paul Abraham lived in a villa on
Fasanenstrasse until his emigration in 1933

See also

Detailed articles on Wilmersdorf:

literature

  • Paul Wollschläger: Wilmersdorf in old and new times. Berlin 1968.
  • Udo Christoffel (Ed.): Berlin Wilmersdorf - A city part book. Wilmersdorf Art Office, Berlin 1981.
  • Udo Christoffel (Ed.): Berlin Wilmersdorf - Wilmersdorf, Schmargendorf, Kolonie and Forst Grunewald depicted in the map for the years from 1588 to 1938. Wilmersdorf Art Office, Berlin 1983.
  • Udo Christoffel (Ed.): Berlin Wilmersdorf - In StadtAnsichten. Wilmersdorf Art Office, Berlin 1984.
  • Udo Christoffel (Ed.): Berlin Wilmersdorf - The years 1920 to 1945. Wilhelm Möller, Berlin 1985, ISBN 3-9801001-1-1 .
  • Rolf Lieberknecht, Karl-Heinz Metzger a. a .: From the Wilhelmsaue to the Carstenn figure . 120 years of urban development in Wilmersdorf. District Office Wilmersdorf of Berlin, Berlin 1987.
  • Karl-Heinz Metzger: Wilmersdorf in the mirror of literary texts from the 19th century to 1933. Wilmersdorf district office of Berlin, Berlin 1985.
  • Karl-Heinz Metzger: Churches, mosques and synagogues in Wilmersdorf. District Office Wilmersdorf of Berlin, Berlin 1986.
  • Karl-Heinz Metzger, Ulrich Dunker: The Kurfürstendamm - the life and myth of the boulevard in 100 years of German history. District Office Wilmersdorf of Berlin, Berlin 1986, ISBN 3-924812-13-6 .
  • Lilli Moritz: The village school in Wilmersdorf. Part II: 1855-1886. In: Yearbook Der Bär von Berlin . Association for the History of Berlin , 13th year, Berlin 1964.
  • Udo Christoffel (Ed.): Berlin Wilmersdorf - The Jews - Life and Suffering. Wilmersdorf Art Office, Berlin 1987.
  • Hans-Ulrich Kamke, Sigrid Stöckel, Wolfgang Ribbe (Eds.): Wilmersdorf. History of the Berlin administrative districts. Volume 11. Colloquium Verlag, Berlin 1989, ISBN 3-7678-0721-1 (published by the Historical Commission in Berlin).
  • Felicitas Bothe-von Richthofen: Resistance in Wilmersdorf. Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-926082-03-8 (from the series Resistance 1933–1945 of the German Resistance Memorial Center Berlin).
  • Udo Christoffel, Elke von der Lieth (ed.): Berlin-Wilmersdorf - Persecution and Resistance 1933 to 1945. Wilmersdorf district office of Berlin, Willmuth Arenhövel publisher, Berlin 1996, ISBN 3-922912-39-7 .
  • Working group history Wilmersdorf (Hrsg.): Fragments - Wilmersdorf. OMNIS Verlag, Berlin 1998, ISBN 3-933175-55-0 .
  • Christian Simon: Wilmersdorf - between idyll and metropolis. be.bra verlag, Berlin 2015, ISBN 978-3-8148-0210-7 .

Web links

Commons : Berlin-Wilmersdorf  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Stolpersteine ​​in Berlin-Wilmersdorf  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Habermannplatz. In: Street name lexicon of the Luisenstädtischer Bildungsverein (near  Kaupert )
  2. Berliner Geschichtswerkstatt puts a provisional memorial plaque on Wilhelmsaue 40
  3. Mayor and District Mayor
  4. Big city faces from Fasanenplatz. Retrieved December 13, 2017 .
  5. For strollers and connoisseurs: Ludwigkirchplatz in Wilmersdorf. In: qiez.de. Retrieved August 10, 2016 .
  6. Eve-Catherine Trieba: The Güntzelkiez in Wilmersdorf is one of the most beautiful quarters in Berlin for us. Retrieved March 9, 2017 .
  7. Favorite Streets in 12 European Cities . In: The New York Times . April 16, 2015, ISSN  0362-4331 ( nytimes.com [accessed August 10, 2016]).
  8. Alexander Stenbock-Fermor: The red count. Baltic aristocrat, White Guard, miner, resistance fighter, writer. 2nd Edition. Verlag der Nation, Berlin 1975, p. 312 ff .
  9. Marlene in Berlin | Deutsche Kinemathek - Museum for Film and Television. In: deutsche-kinemathek.de. Retrieved August 9, 2016 .
  10. ^ Prager Platz in Berlin Wilmersdorf. Sightseeing Berlin. Tourist information Berlin Wilmersdorf. In: sehenswuerdheiten-berlin.de. Retrieved August 9, 2016 .
  11. Kulturring in Berlin e. V .: Culture Guide-Berlin. In: Kulturfuehrer-berlin.de. Retrieved August 9, 2016 .
  12. Hans Magnus Enzensberger: The short summer of anarchy (1977), p. 75