North Sea Crab (food)

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North Sea Crabs (cooked and still unpeeled)
North Sea crab meat

As shrimps , mostly short crabs as well as Porren or garnet , are in common usage and in particular in the kitchen language from the North and Baltic Sea originating brown shrimp (Latin Crangon crangon called), whose meat and a delicacy which are the specialty of northern Germany apply. Sometimes they are also referred to as "sand" or "beach shrimp ", " shrimp " (from French "crevette" - there also generally for shrimp ), "knat" or "gray crab".

Only North Sea prawns with a certain minimum size, the so-called table crabs, are important as food . The nutty-tasting North Sea crab meat from table crabs serves both as the main ingredient or flavor-defining ingredient in a number of North German dishes and as a side dish or garnish for various dishes.

General

In northern Germany, North Sea shrimp are "incorrectly but officially called [...] North Sea crab [n], although ' crabs '" "- in the zoological sense -" are exclusively short-tailed crabs ". The "North Sea crab", however, belongs to the long-tailed crabs and is therefore one of the shrimp. A number of other names for the “delicacy from the North Sea” have become established. Thus, the popular mainly in northern Germany are inland as shrimp brown shrimp referred to in Nordfriesland often Porren in Ostfriesland garnet called.

Freshly cooked brown shrimp here in Lakolk on the Danish island of Romo

Their distribution area extends from the White Sea to the Atlantic coast of Morocco . It is the most widespread type of shrimp on the sandy and muddy coasts of the Eastern Atlantic and the only marine shrimp of fishing importance for Germany . Other small deposits exist in the Baltic Sea , the Mediterranean Sea and the Black Sea . They live mainly on sandy ground. North Sea shrimp are mainly caught in shallower waters up to about 40 meters deep in bays from France and England to Denmark, with a focus on the Wadden Sea and the German Bight . North Sea prawns are typical prawns, long and narrow with an almost round cross-section and with long antennae. They are slightly grayish to brownish in color; therefore they are called “crevette grise” in French and “brown shrimp” in English . When cooked, they are reddish-brown and have a "teardrop shape" because the body has curved on the underside from the tip of the tail to the head.

Crab meat is considered a delicacy, which is why the North Sea prawns are to be classified as a "valuable and high-priced fishery product". They are an economically very important species for German inshore fishing , and often the most valuable in terms of their annual landfall value. In addition to the culinary importance of North Sea shrimps for North German and Northwest German cuisine , the fishing vessels of the shrimp fishery are of considerable importance for tourism on the coast today .

Since the 17th century at the latest, the North Sea prawns were caught with nets in the Wadden Sea; Since the end of the 19th century, crab trawls have been used for fishing with bottom trawls . The total European catch in the North Sea was around 31,400 tonnes in 2016/17. This puts the shrimp fishery in third place among the North Sea fisheries. The consumption of North Sea shrimp in Germany was 652 tons in 2014. They are largely cooked on board after they have been caught and are only available to a limited extent as unpeeled table crabs on the coast or from well-stocked fishmongers . The majority is, after mostly long transport to and from the place of “pulping”, marketed as peeled crab meat loose or packaged via the fish or grocery store . Crab peeling, which has been practiced at home for many decades both on the north German coast and in other countries bordering the North Sea , has now shifted almost 95% to more distant countries such as Morocco , Poland and Belarus in the course of globalization .

Crabs are traditionally cooked freshly caught on board in seawater after they have been sieved, and after landing they are sold unpulted per liters . One liter of crabs is about 500 grams .

North Sea prawns are particularly popular in Belgium , Northern Germany and England, and they are also sometimes on the menu in other North Sea countries such as France, the Netherlands and Denmark. Today's culinary importance of shrimps is among others from the North German TV chef Tarik Rose in a cooking show of the NDR television characterized as follows: "The former poor man's food has become a delicacy - crabs are true today luxury". And the Hamburger Abendblatt ruled: "... crabs are still the culinary symbol of the North Sea coast ".

Typical dishes with North Sea shrimps

Crab rolls

Crab rolls

Crab rolls are a fish roll and are mostly sold at food stalls and fast food restaurants that are geared towards fish . In addition, they are often part of the range of fish shops. North Sea shrimp is used as a topping for "original crab rolls". In northern Germany, like other fish rolls, they are part of the culture of life . Due to the high price level of North Sea crab meat, they are relatively expensive. They consist of a sliced roll , which is usually coated with butter or margarine and topped with North Sea crab meat. Typical ingredients are tartar sauce and lettuce leaves . In the fish restaurants and shops of the Sylt company group Gosch , crab rolls are a typical offer; Instead of tartar sauce, they are prepared with a special salad sauce in the form of a proprietary "lobster sauce".

In general, different - and cheaper - shrimp such as "Shrimps", " Arctic Sea Shrimps" or "Greenland Crabs" are used as toppings today, but their taste cannot be compared with North Sea crabs.

crab salad

Crab salad with celery, apples and salad cream
Crab
salad with white cabbage and vinaigrette

Crab salad is a North German delicacy. The basic ingredients of the salad are, according to a traditional recipe, North Sea crab meat , salad mayonnaise , cucumber , lemon juice , salt and pepper and finely chopped fresh dill . Yogurt can be added to make the rich salad taste a little fresher and lighter . In refined recipes, the cream of yogurt, sour cream , table horseradish , lemon juice, finely chopped spring onions and herbs such as dill or rocket are mixed with the crab meat. It is seasoned with salt and pepper and a little sugar . There are numerous variations; For example, finely chopped celery or diced apple or avocado pulp can be added.

A variant of the Büsum shrimp salad is popular, for which finely chopped cucumber, radishes , onions and dill are marinated in a vinegar-oil vinaigrette or lemon-oil dressing and seasoned with salt and pepper. Before serving, the crab meat is lifted underneath; garnish with a few sprigs of dill, lemon wedges or cress . Names factor for the salad variant is located directly on the North Schleswig Holstein port and tourist resort Büsum , the historic center of the shrimp harvest .

crab cocktail

Shrimp cocktails are among the starters - cocktails that became fashionable internationally in the 1960s and 1970s. They mainly consist of iceberg lettuce , shrimp, and cocktail sauce . Hundreds of different versions have now been developed.

In northern Germany in particular, as well as in other countries bordering the North Sea, shrimp cocktail is often prepared with North Sea shrimp meat. Is typically a sauce of mayonnaise, cream ( whipped cream , sour cream or sour cream), tomato ketchup , brandy or port wine , salt, sugar, and depending on the recipe orange or lemon juice, grated horseradish, pepper, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce . Often other ingredients such as small mushrooms , slices of hard-boiled eggs , cooked peas or tangerine slices are added. The spicy crab meat mixture is usually served decoratively on fine strips of lettuce and in glasses or bowls and garnished with dill or lemon wedges.

Crab soup

Bremen crab soup

Crab soup has developed from the earlier “poor people's meal” into a popular bisque- style appetizer , which today is usually served hot in a soup cup and with a cherry on top . In traditional recipes, such as those from the North Frisian Islands and Halligen , it is prepared with “crab stock”. For this purpose, fresh North Sea shrimps are peeled, the shells washed, boiled in water and the resulting brew is strained . The soup comes with a roux of flour and fat bound with tangy white wine is quenched. Then it is topped up with the stock and seasoned with salt, pepper and tomato paste . In some recipes, bite-sized soup vegetables are added and cooked in the soup, sometimes asparagus cuts (formerly mostly canned goods) are also added. Shortly before serving, whipped cream and a “shot glass” of cognac are added to the hot soup. Traditionally, a few spoons of crab meat are placed in the soup plates or cups at the table, the hot soup is poured over them and eaten with some freshly chopped parsley .

There are a number of variations, the methods of preparation of which mainly differ in terms of small ingredients, which vary and can be exchanged depending on the taste. Almost every shrimp fishing town on the German North Sea coast knows its "own shrimp soup", plus regional versions. In modern recipes, when unpeeled North Sea shrimp or crab shells are not available, crab soup is usually prepared on the basis of vegetable soup , potato and vegetable soup , chicken or vegetable broth . Sometimes this is flavored with a commercially available crab butter ready-made product or with lobster stock , alternatively fish stock .

Crabs with scrambled eggs

Shrimp with scrambled eggs is a specialty of northern Germany. The easy and quick to prepare and at the same time nutritious dish consists of just two main ingredients, "freshly caught" North Sea shrimps and fresh eggs. For the scrambled eggs , the raw eggs are cracked open and whisked, often with a little milk , yoghurt , mineral water or water , and put in butter or vegetable oil in a pan over a mild heat . It is seasoned with salt and, if you like, with pepper, sometimes finely chopped fresh herbs such as dill, parsley or chives are added on top. As a modern variation, it is also garnished with radish slices. Traditionally, the crabs are added to the pan while the eggs are frozen and heated briefly. Alternatively, the crabs are briefly tossed in hot butter in a second pan, seasoned with salt, pepper and a dash of lemon juice and served with the scrambled eggs. As a variant, the crabs left cold are sprinkled over the scrambled eggs or given next to them. It is often garnished with lemon and herbs. Black bread buttered with scrambled eggs is traditionally served with shrimp .

Shrimp with scrambled eggs are traditionally eaten both as a "hearty breakfast " or dinner and as a main course , sometimes together with fried potatoes and lettuce . The dishes " crab bread ", " Hallig bread " and " crab toast " are known as variations, some of which are also prepared with fried eggs .

Crab bread

Crab bread with fried egg

Crab bread is a North German classic and traditionally consists of buttered black bread topped with freshly cooked and pulsed North Sea shrimp and supplemented with scrambled or fried eggs. It is considered a classic and simple crab dish and is known in northern Germany under partly different regional names. In East Frisia and the Hamburg area in particular, it is often referred to as garnet slices (North German for a slice of bread and butter with garnet ), while it is known as Hallig bread , especially in North Frisia .

The descriptive terms crabbread with scrambled eggs , crabbread with fried eggs or crabbread for short are also used for the food , while the Swedish räksmörgås and Asian crab chips are also called "crabbread".

By conventional recipes is whole wheat bread (rye bread or dark rye bread ) spread with butter and topped with scrambled eggs. For this purpose, whipped eggs are mixed with cream, seasoned with salt and pepper and brought to a stop in the pan together with shallot cubes that have previously been steamed in butter . Then crab meat - which should be as fresh as possible - is seasoned with a little pepper, mixed with finely chopped dill and generously layered over the scrambled bread. Alternatively, the bread is topped with crabs and supplemented with one or two fried eggs. It is usually garnished with slices or eighths of lemon and sometimes with tomato and cucumber, and sometimes with lettuce leaves or cucumber fans .

The term Halligbrot , which is particularly widespread in North Friesland, alludes to the Hallig world that characterizes the region and can already be found in the standard range of various country inns on the coast of North Friesland as early as the 1970s . In the meantime, many restaurants in the region have identified “Halligbrot” as a specialty, not least in the course of increasing tourism marketing of culinary specialties on the North Sea coast such as crabs here. Hallig bread is usually served with a fried egg, and it can also be found as a variation with scrambled eggs. Food that uses shrimp types other than North Sea shrimp are not considered to be Hallig bread.

Crab toast

Crab toast with dill

Crab toast is one of the "quick dishes" that emerged as a snack and party snack based on toast bread after its introduction in West Germany in the 1960s. The preparation is partly similar to that of crab bread , although crab toast is partly baked in the oven after the topping has been applied. Roland Gööck described an early version in his cookbook Quickly cooked - in a small household , published by Bertelsmann Lesering in 1965 : Toasted toast bread is buttered, topped with Chester cheese and a mixture of crab meat, chopped parsley and grated cheese as well as some flakes of butter and baked in a hot oven; Mayonnaise is served with it if desired.

There are now numerous variations, most of which differ in the ingredients added to the crab meat for the topping of the toast and sometimes in the spices. Corresponding ingredients in modern recipes are, for example, herb cream, scrambled eggs, sherry , hollandaise sauce with dill, or semi-hard cheese , tomato slices, mango strips and dill. The TV chef Björn Friday described in his cookbook seductive magic of 2009, a version in which the with olive oil marinated, salt and pepper and blanched diced onions and chives served is made shrimps on toasted toast and a saffron - curry - Aioli be supplemented.

Porren in Suur

Porren in Suur (Low German: "Krabben in Sauer") is a traditional aspic dish on the Schleswig-Holstein North Sea coast. For this purpose, North Sea crab meat is placed in wine jelly with onion rings, bay leaf and whole peppercorns. The brew is made up of equal parts of wine vinegar and water and made to gel with white and red gelatine with the addition of a little sugar .

Leek pan

Porrenpann (Low German: "Krabbenpfanne") is a North German specialty made from potatoes , bechamel sauce and North Sea shrimps . The dish originally comes from the North Frisian Islands and Halligen and used to be traditionally prepared “with the first new potatoes” as jacket potatoes and with freshly peeled crabs. According to traditional recipes, the sauce is made as a stoving sauce by heating butter and mixing it with flour to form a solid mass, then stirring it with milk and boiling it and repeating the process until the sauce is thin enough. While the eaters are peeling their own potatoes, the pot is taken off the fire, the crab meat and chopped parsley are added to the sauce and left to stand for a moment. It is only seasoned with salt.

Instead of the béchamel sauce made from roux, cream is often used today, with which the crab meat is briefly thickened. Season with salt and pepper. In addition to be boiled potatoes and chopped parsley served.

Plaice fillets with crabs

Breaded plaice fillets with shrimp and asparagus in hollandaise sauce , with potato salad

Plaice fillets save the guest the need to practice boning the flatfish and are therefore particularly popular in gastronomy. They consist of boned plaice fillets  - mostly skinless - that are floured or breaded and fried in the pan, and often supplemented with shrimp that has been sweated or cooked in sauce. Potatoes are served as jacket or boiled potatoes, potato salad or French fries ; Sometimes they are also served with prepared vegetables or a dressed salad.

Plaice Finkenwerder

Scholle Finkenwerder Art , also known as Finkenwerder Scholle or Finkenwerder Speckscholle or Finkenwerder Kutterscholle , is a north German specialty and is a traditional preparation for plaice. The Hamburg district of Finkenwerder gave its name to the dish . According to traditional recipes, the fish is stuffed with a stick of fatty bacon , onions and North Sea crab meat. Then the fish is baked in the oven. A well-known and predominantly found variant today, which, however, mostly manages without crabs, is preparation in the pan. For this, the plaice are floured or partly breaded and fried together with lean bacon or bacon.

Plaice Büsumer Art

Scholle Büsumer Art is a well-known variant of the Finkenwerder-style plaice , but it is prepared without bacon and always with North Sea crab meat. According to traditional recipes, whole clods, preferably so-called corn clods, are fried in the skin. For this purpose, the ready-to-cook fish are drizzled with lemon juice, seasoned with salt and pepper, floured and fried with clarified butter in the pan until golden. Then the crab meat is tossed in the butter together with some chopped parsley and spread on the clods as a topping. Parsley potatoes and lettuce are usually served with it. It is garnished with a lemon wedge.

Other uses as an ingredient, side dish or garnish

Bourgois : "Fischer breakfast" - fried potatoes with scrambled egg and shrimps
Nouvelle Cuisine : Grilled sea bass with shrimps and capers on green beans and watercress

North sea crabs are one of the most popular seafood and are therefore to be found in a number of other dishes, especially in northern Germany, in which they are used as an ingredient, side dish or garnish. "The Frisians eat [... North Sea shrimps] in soups and ragouts , in salads or as meatballs and especially like on bread and with eggs, plain and nutritious," states the Hamburger Abendblatt .

Traditional dishes and side dishes with crab meat include, for example, pancakes with crabs , crab cakes , crab soufflé or sweet and sour crab sauce . Today, many top chefs regularly deal with "North Sea shrimp as a theme" and present new creations and variations, for example:

Trivia

A literary memorial was placed on the "North Sea crabs" by the writer Bertolt Brecht . In his short story North Sea Crabs or The Modern Bauhaus Apartment , which came out for the first time in 1927, they have a symbolic meaning: A tin of North Sea crabs - brought as a gift by the protagonist of the story - becomes "a symbol of natural, real experience in the artificial-cultural" and the “ cosmopolitan ” world of a Bauhaus- style apartment of a former comrade-in-arms who has achieved some prosperity through marriage and who is visited by the first-person narrator together with the protagonist.

literature

  • Marion Kiesewetter : Crab catching. The best crab recipes. Boyens, Heide 2006, ISBN 3-8042-1188-7 .
  • Lenka Hansen-Mörck, Jens Mecklenburg : Cooking à la Schleswig-Holstein. Yesterday Today Tomorrow. Schlütersche, Hannover 2008. ISBN 978-3-89993-739-8 , pp. 12-18, 26-27, 68-69.
  • Tom Dieck: Pottkieker. 50 classic north German dishes with a history . Koehler, Hamburg 2013, ISBN 978-3-7822-1079-9 , pp. 38-39 .
  • Birte Münster-Peters: Really North German! 80 family recipes from the far north. Christian, Munich 2015, ISBN 978-3-86244-665-0 .
  • Lower Saxony Chamber of Agriculture, Fishery Department (Ed.): Feasibility study for sustainable and regional shrimp marketing in the Wadden Sea region in Lower Saxony. Chamber of Agriculture Lower Saxony, Oldenburg 2015 ( digital version as PDF, 5.1 MB) (Note: The study contains extensive general information on shrimp fishing, shrimp processing and marketing).

Web links

Commons : North Sea Crabs  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Krabbe  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. a b Producer association of the German shrimp fishermen : “Krabbe”, “Granat” or “Shrimp” - what is it called? In: ezdk.de. Retrieved March 21, 2018.
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  3. a b c Thünen-Institute for Baltic Sea Fisheries : Fischartdatenblatt brown shrimp . In: fischbestaende.thuenen.de. Status: 2016. Accessed March 21, 2018.
  4. See: Chamber of Agriculture Lower Saxony, Department of Fisheries (Ed.): Feasibility study for sustainable and regional shrimp marketing in the Wadden Sea region in Lower Saxony. Lower Saxony Chamber of Agriculture, Oldenburg 2015 ( digital version as PDF, 5.1 MB).
  5. ^ Society for Schleswig-Holstein History: Crab Catching
  6. Klaus Perschke: Seefahrt 1956-58 - Asia trips in front of the mast - Nautical watch officer: Volume 42 in the maritime yellow book series with Jürgen Ruszkowski
  7. Dangast: Crabs fresh from the cutter
  8. North Sea Schleswig-Holstein: Crabs (photo)
  9. Oliver Franke: Shrimp sales in Husum (photo)
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  15. Christiane Leesker: North German homesick kitchen. The best recipes from East Frisia to Rügen. Dorling Kindersley, Munich 2017, ISBN 978-3-8310-3120-7 , p. 78 ff.
  16. Courtney Roulston: The best salads by the glass to take away. Bassermann, Munich 2017, ISBN 978-3-8094-3657-7 , p. 49 ( digitized in the Google book search).
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  19. ^ A b Andreas Bormann, Arnd M. Schuppius: North Sea Coast Schleswig-Holstein. 10th updated edition. MairDumont, Ostfildern 2014, ISBN 978-3-8297-2558-3 , pp. 24-25 ( digitized in the Google book search).
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  21. Matthias F. Mangold : German cuisine rediscovered! Gräfe and Unzer, Munich 2015, ISBN 978-3-8338-4473-7 , p. 55 ( digitized in the Google book search).
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  29. Björn Friday : Little Magic. Seductive snacks from the star chef. Südwest, Munich 2009, ISBN 978-3-517-08587-6 , pp. 66-67 ( digitized in the Google book search).
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  34. Erhard Gorys : The new kitchen dictionary. 7th edition. Dtv, Munich 2001, ISBN 978-3-423-36245-0 , p. 514.
  35. Hamburg specialty: Finkenwerder plaice . In: NDR.de . Retrieved March 21, 2018.
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  37. Landfrauen-Verein Pellworm (ed.): Island recipes. 1984, p. 268.
  38. Frisian cuisine. Over 100 delicious specialties. License issue. Nikol, Hamburg 1994, ISBN 3-930656-04-3 , p. 40.
  39. Landfrauen-Verein Pellworm (ed.): Island recipes. 1984, p. 307.
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  42. Magdalena Gerwien, Peter Schulz: cracks in a dream. New barbarians in Brecht's “North Sea Crabs” . In: Working group on art and politics at the educational collective BiKo e. V. (Ed.): Art, spectacle, revolution. Katzenberg-Verlag, Hamburg, No. 3 from March 2013, ISBN 978-3-942222-02-0 ( digitized in Spektel.blogsport.de; contribution to the series of events art, spectacle & revolution in the ACC gallery in Weimar; accessed on March 21, 2018).