Volary

Volary
Basic data
State :	Czech Republic
Region :	Jihočeský kraj
District :	Prachatice
Area :	10753 ha
Geographic location :	48 ° 55 '  N , 13 ° 53'  E Coordinates: 48 ° 54 '31 "  N , 13 ° 53' 11"  E
Height:	760  m nm
Residents :	3,780 (Jan 1, 2019)
Postal code :	384 51
License plate :	C.
traffic
Street:	Vimperk - Horni Plana
Railway connection:	Číčenice – Haidmühle Strakonice – Volary
structure
Status:	city
Districts:	3
administration
Mayor :	Martina Pospíšilová (as of 2018)
Address:	Náměstí 25 384 51 Volary
Municipality number:	550671
Website :	www.mestovolary.cz
Location of Volary in the Prachatice district

Aerial view of the city from the southwest

Volary school

Volary train station

Volary listen ^{? / i} ( German : Wallern ) is a town in the South Bohemia region of the Czech Republic in the Prachatice district . It is located about 16 kilometers southwest of Prachatice in the Bohemian Forest , about 100 kilometers east of Deggendorf and 160 km south of Prague .

geography

location

Volary is located southeast of the Bobík ( Schreiner , 1264 m nm) in the Volarská kotlina (Wallerer plain) , which is separated from the Vltavická brázda (Vltava ridge) by a chain of hills to the south . The Volarský creek flows through the city. Six kilometers south of Volary, the Mrtvý luh bog unites the warm and cold Vltava to form the Vltava . To the north rise the Kleine Steinberg (874 m nm) and the U Myslivem (891 m nm), in the northeast the Vysoký les ( high meadow , 942 m nm), the Zlatá stezka ( Kronetberg , 920 m nm), the Ořechovka (919 m nm) and the Kamenáč (899 m nm), east of the Větrný ( Lichtenberg , 1051 m nm), southeast of the Na Skále ( Great Stone Mountain , 1011 m nm), the Doupná hora ( Schusterberg , 1052 m nm), the Křemenná ( stone layer , 1085 m nm) and the Mechový vrch ( Maystadt , 1012 m nm), in the south-west of the Lískovec ( Sipplberg , 834 m nm), to the west of the Smolná hora (883 m nm) and in the north-west of the Dvorský vrch ( Brix , 914 m nm ), the Jedlová ( Stögerberg , 1088 m nm), the Hochmark and the Bobík. The state road I / 39 between Vimperk and Horní Planá leads through Volary , from which the road II / 141 branches off to Prachatice in the town center . The town lies on the railway lines Číčenice – Haidmühle and Strakonice – Volary .

Community structure

City structure

The town of Volary consists of the districts Chlum (Humwald) , Mlynářovice (Müllerschlag) and Volary (Wallern) . Basic development units are Cudrovice (Zuderschlag) , Chlum, Horni Sněžná (upper Schneedorf) , Jedlova, Krejčovice (Schneider shock) , Milešice (Obernschlag) , Mlynářovice, Průmyslový obvod, Sídliště, Soumarský Most (Säumerbrück) , Stögrova Huť (Stoger hut) , U Lexova mlýna, Účelové zařízení, Volary-střed and Za pivovarem.

To Volary also the Weiler and include monolayer Brixovy Dvory (Brixhof) , Chalupy according Blatech (Moos houses) , Dolni Sněžná (lower Schneedorf) , Meindlova Pila (Meindlsäge) , Milešická Hájenka (colors Heger) , Mlynařovická myslivna (Müller Schlager Forsthaus) , Myslivny (Hunter houses) , Nové Chalupy (Neuhäuser) , Planerův Dvůr (Planerhof) , Plešivec (Kolmberg) , Sipplovy Dvory (Sipplhof) , Svatá Magdaléna (St. Magdalena) , U Bašty (shoemaker's meadow ) and Zelené Dvory (Grünhof) . In the territory of the municipality are the abandoned settlements Dvojdomí (The two houses) , Jodlovy Chalupy (Jodlhäuser) , Koller house, Kuberna ( Kubern ) Lexův Mlyn (Lexmühle) , Putin and U Kováře Lukse (Stalliesel Luksch) .

The municipality is divided into the cadastral districts of Cudrovice, Chlum u Volar, Horní Sněžná, Krejčovice, Milešice, Mlynářovice u Volar and Volary.

Neighboring communities

Horní Vltavice	Buk	Záblatí
Lenora		Zbytiny
Stožec	Nová Pec ( district Pěkná )	Boletice

Neighboring towns are Milešice and Mlynářovice in the north, Křišťanovice, Blažejovice, Zbytiny and Svatá Magdaléna in the Northeast, Dolní Sněžná and Arnoštov the east, Horni Sněžná the southeast, Pěkná , Chlum and Smolna Pec in the south, Černý Kříž , Stožec and Dobrá in the southwest, Soumarský Most, Stögrova Huť and Lenora in the west and Zátoň and Kaplice in the northwest.

history

Wallerer houses (photo by Rudolf Bruner-Dvořák, 1900)

Listed wooden house Soumarská 56

Church of St. Catherine

Chapel of St. Florian

Volarské menhiry

The German population of Volary was forced by the US military to pass victims of the death march on May 11, 1945

Cemetery of the victims of the death march

Sculpture at the cemetery of the death march victims

Wallern was probably founded in the first half of the 14th century by the Vyšehrad collegiate monastery as a mule settlement with overnight camp in the course of the re-routing of the Prachatitzer Steige . Instead of the old path leading through the Cold Vltava valley and at Pěkná and Zbytiny over the mountain ridge, a new trade route was created, which crossed the Haidel and České Žleby and at Soumarský Most in a ford through the marshes of the Warm Vltava and finally through the Volarská kotlina was led to Prachatice. It is believed that the first settlers came from the Passau bishopric . The place name is probably derived from forest dwellers ("ze den waldaeren").

Wallern was first mentioned in a document in 1359 in connection with the Prachatitz council member Andreas de Wallerii . The Czech place name can be found for the first time in 1410 in the form of the name z Wollar . At the beginning of the 15th century, Wallern had grown to become the most important trading center on the Bohemian part of the Goldener Steiges and probably gained market rights during this time. Until the Hussite Wars Wallern belonged to the possessions of the Vyšehrad monastery and then fell to the royal chamber . After that, the traffic on the Goldener Steig was severely affected by gangs of mercenaries wandering around. In 1437, King Sigismund pledged the Wallern rule to Jan Smil von Krems at Gans Castle . Jan Smil engaged in numerous feuds with Ulrich von Rosenberg and was captured by him at Krumau Castle in 1439 . Thereupon robber baron Habart Lopata von Hrádek seized the former protective castle Gans and used it as a hideout for his attacks on passing merchants on the Goldener Steig; In 1441 the robber's nest was captured and razed. In 1444 Ulrich von Rosenberg seized the Wallern rule by means of a forged document, which he left to the brothers Prokop and Johann von Rabenstein in 1457 . Between 1493 and 1501 the Wallern rule was pledged to the von Raupowa lords. From 1503 it belonged again to the Lords of Rosenberg , from whom Wallern received the right to free removal of construction timber and firewood as well as the grazing of cattle in the stately forests up to a distance of four hours. In the privileges granted by Peter von Rosenberg in 1506 as the exclusive mule inn between Prachatitz and the Bavarian border, Wallern was first called a market town. During the heyday of the Passau salt trade, there were 13 inns and four blacksmiths for hauliers in Wallern during the 16th century. At this time the typical alpine houses were built. In 1591 Sigmund Stöger received the privilege of operating a mirror hut near Wallern from Wilhelm von Rosenberg . In 1596, Peter Wok von Rosenberg extended the Wallern privileges to include the right to confiscate horses and loads of foreign mules who deviated from the Goldener Steig to the detriment of the market and sold their goods elsewhere, with half of the confiscated goods going to the Wallern market and half to the authorities . At the beginning of the 17th century the rule belonged to Katharina von Gutenstein and then fell back to the court chamber. In 1608 King Rudolf II confirmed all privileges to the town with the exception of the right of confiscation for horse and cargo. Ferdinand II left the rule of Wallern to Hans Ulrich von Eggenberg on December 23, 1622 . The Thirty Years War led to the decline of the salt trade on the Goldener Steig, instead it served the imperial army as a deployment and supply route. Even after the end of the war, trade on the Goldener Steig never flourished again because of high protective tariffs on Bavarian and Passau salt and increased imports of Austrian salt from Gmunden . In 1679 a major fire destroyed 45 houses. In 1693 the brothers Johann, Georg and Kaspar Stegbauer founded a hospital for four beneficiaries in Wallern. During the War of the Spanish Succession , Joseph I finally forbade the importation of Bavarian and Passau salt into Bohemia and repealed the Prachatitz salt stacking law. After the male line of the Princes von Eggenberg died out in 1717, the rule fell to the Princes zu Schwarzenberg , who owned it until 1848. After the end of the salt trade, the Goldene Steig had sunk into insignificance by the middle of the 18th century; this also led to the decline of Wallern. There were further large fires in 1715, 1719 and 1754. In 1754 the church of St. Catherine burned down after a lightning strike. After its reconstruction, the church was consecrated in 1756. The market was run by a regulated magistrate. In 1807 the mirror glass works in Stögerhütten was closed. Since the Wallern right of use and grazing in the manorial forests led to increasing irritation with their forestry use, which began at the end of the 18th century, Prince Joseph II of Schwarzenberg concluded a recess with the Wallerer Magistrate in 1816 about the replacement of the extensive use und Weiderechts and assigned the market 5436 Joch 941 square fathom woods around the carpenter, the Lichtenberg and the Maystadt. The old Goldene Steig, which can only be used for pack horses, was discarded as a traffic route to Bavaria in the 19th century and sank to become a mule track with only regional significance. It was replaced by the art roads to Prachatitz and Obermoldau . In 1833, the owner of the Liboch estate , Jakob Veith, who was born in Wallern, set up a further donation of 2000 guilders, which served the better subsistence of the magistrate.

In 1838, the Allodialherrschaft Wallern, which was divided into three parts by the intervening villages of the Winterberg rule, comprised a usable area of ​​11,954 yoke 570 square fathoms, of which the forest portion was 4649 yoke 27 square fathoms. The majority of the forests belonged to the city of Prachatitz and the Wallern market; the manorial forest consisted only of the two smaller forests Čihadlo and Kozlow near Bieltsch. The rule lay on the language border; Czech was spoken in the villages north of Prachatitz, and German was spoken in the remaining part. The rulership included the protective and municipal town of Prachatitz, the Wallern market and the villages of Bieltsch (Běleč) , Danetschlag (Rohanov) , Lhota (Bělečská Lhota) , Pfefferschlag , Tieschowitz , Weyrow (Výrov) and Zdenitz (Zdeníce) . The official seat of the rule was in Prachatitz . The Wallern market , including the 46 single layers, consisted of 224 houses with 2069 German-speaking residents. Under the patronage of the authorities were the parish church of St. Katharina and the school. There was also a public chapel of St. Florian and a town hall. Two art roads from Prachatitz and Obermoldau led to Wallern. The main sources of income were agriculture, cattle breeding and fattening, line weaving and the manufacture of yarn. Every year the catfish sold around 400 fattened oxen to Prague. The secluded market town was surrounded by meadows used for agriculture with numerous solitary farms, hay barns and barns, which, together with the special construction of the houses, gave the area an alpine character. The mostly wooden houses of Wallern were built close together and had flat gable roofs weighted down with large stones and pawlatschen on the gable front. The residents, known as Wallinger or Wallerer , preserved their old customs and traditions against foreign influences. At that time there were 73 businesses in Wallern, including twelve linen weavers, nine tailors and eight bakers. Two annual fairs were held in Wallern, but their importance was only minor. The Wallern market included the Magdalenenhöfe ( Svatá Magdaléna , seven houses and chapel of St. Magdalena), Spanolahof (Spanolerův Dvůr) and Zaunmühle (four houses), communal mill ( Obecní mlýn , two houses), Austenmühle, Schoberhof, Sippelhöfe ( Sipplovyvory , four houses), Prixhöfe ( Brixovy Dvory , five houses), Stögerhütten ( Stögrova Huť , nine houses with a board saw), Grünhof ( Zelené Dvory , two houses), Ratschinhof, Jägerhaus ( Myslivny , two houses) and Nuskohof. Wallern was the parish for Neuhäuser (Nové Chalupy) and Ober-Schneedorf . Until the mid-19th century was Wallern of Allodialherrschaft Wallern servants.

After the abolition of patrimonial Wallern / Volary formed a market town in the judicial district of Prachatitz from 1849 with the districts of Stögerhütte and St. Magdalena . On July 22nd, 1863, a large fire destroyed 59 houses, the church and the school; the next day Wallern was hit by a storm, in which the Langwiesenbach overflowed its banks. When it was rebuilt after the fire of 1863, the typical Wallerer houses were no longer made entirely of wood, but were partially provided with walls made of stone and bricks. A total of eight major fires broke out between 1856 and 1882 in the town, which largely consisted of wooden houses. A post office was opened in Wallern in 1865, and a telegraph office was established in 1869. From 1868 the market town belonged to the Prachatitz district . The heavy storm of October 27, 1870 left strong windbreak damage in the Waller forests, as in the entire Bohemian Forest. On April 30, 1871 Wallern was raised to town by Emperor Franz Joseph I and received a town coat of arms; at that time, 2712 people lived in the city. In 1873 a state college for woodworking was opened. On November 3, 1874, the judicial district Wallern was formed and the city was raised to the seat of a district court. A brewery was established in 1879, and numerous wood processing companies, sawmills and a bicycle chain factory were founded in the town in the second half of the 19th century. The State College for Woodworking moved into a newly built school building in 1894. In 1899 Wallern received a rail connection as part of the extension of the Číčenice – Prachatitz railway line. In the same year the Eleonorenhain-Wallern railway went into operation, and the section between Eleonorenhain and Winterberg was inaugurated in 1900. Ten years later the rail link was extended to Haidmühle in Bavaria . In the 1910 census, the city had 3,573 inhabitants, only nine of whom were Czech. Until the establishment of Czechoslovakia in 1918, the city was part of Austria-Hungary . During the First Republic there was an increasing influx of Czechs. In 1923 Wallern was connected to the electricity network. In 1924 a new dairy went into operation. In 1930 the city of Wallern had 3,905 inhabitants. By 1938 the Czech minority had grown to just under 200 people, mostly civil servants; in Wallern there was a Czech minority school and a Czech kindergarten, as well as a few Czech associations. In October 1938 Wallern was added to the German Reich as a result of the Munich Agreement and belonged to the Prachatitz district until 1945 . In 1939, 4099 people lived in Wallern. In 1940 a prisoner of war camp was set up. The owner of the metal goods factory Knäbel und Co. OHG , Oskar Knäbel, took over the management of the underground manufacturing facility of Messerschmitt AG under the cover name "Möbelwerke Franzensthal AG" in the former paper factory Franzensthal in the valley of the Warm Vltava . Between 1943 and 1944 Knäbel acquired the "Möbelwerke Franzensthal" and relocated his chain factory from Wallern to Franzensthal.

On May 4, 1945, the death march of the Helmbrechts subcamp reached Wallern; Some of the Jewish women were driven even further via Prachatitz towards Hussinetz , where the death march ended on May 6 after the guards had escaped. 17 victims of the death march were buried in a mass grave near Wallern, another eight women died in the military hospital set up in the wood school. After the 5th Infantry Division of the US Army took Wallern without a fight on May 5, 1945, they had the bodies exhumed from the mass grave and on May 11, 1945 forced the German-speaking population of Volary to march past the bodies. Other victims of the death march were exhumed near Kvilda , Polka, Cudrovice, Můstek and Blanický mlýn; Overall, mostly Jewish women were buried in a separate cemetery next to the Volary 95 cemetery.

After the end of World War II , the city came back to Czechoslovakia. At the beginning of 1946 Volary had about 4,000 German-speaking residents. From March 1946, the German-speaking residents were almost completely expelled in five transports on the basis of the Beneš decrees , and Czechs from the interior of the country, and later Slovak re-emigrants from Hungary and Romania, were settled. From October 1, 1951, a unit of the Pohraniční stráž was stationed in Volary , which was disbanded after the fall of the Iron Curtain. In 1961 Chlum (with Dolni Sněžná, Horní Sněžná, Nové Chalupy and parts of Jodlovy Chalupy) and Mlynářovice (with Cudrovice, Milešice and Plešivec) were incorporated. Since 1995 the city has been running a banner that shows a silver angle or a lying V in a green field. Part of the historic town center was declared a village conservation area in 1995 to protect the Wallerer wooden houses.

Town twinning

Partnerships have existed with the Bavarian town of Waldkirchen and the municipality of Grainet as well as with the Upper Austrian market town of Wallern an der Trattnach since 1996 . In addition, the city still maintains non-contractual cooperation with the Bavarian market in Perlesreut and the Austrian market in Wallern in Burgenland .

coat of arms

The multi-colored coat of arms consists of four fir trees on a white background, which stand on the forest floor shown in green and are surrounded by stones. The city received the coat of arms when it was raised to the city in 1871. The oldest surviving community seal is from 1617 , it only shows a fir tree. There is also a stylized coat of arms with four green trees on four green hills.

The Wallerer house

→ Main article : Wallerer House

In the village there are the so-called Wallerer houses, whose architectural style can be traced back to immigrants from the Alpine region. The walls consist of mostly timbered, sometimes uncut wooden beams. The large houses with a front width of up to 20 meters with stables, living rooms and barns under one roof were built for agriculture , but not all were used for this. So that agricultural wagons could also drive into the houses, the house entrances on the street front were sometimes large.

The rooms of the house are divided into d 'Stum (room), Koumer (chamber), attic, Gwölb , Kuchl , Stull (stable) and Stou (d) (Stadl = Scheuer).

Attractions

Buildings

• Early baroque church of St. Catherine , built between 1688 and 1690 instead of a late Gothic predecessor building according to plans by the builder Giovanni Domenico Canevalle
• Wallerer wooden houses in alpine style (Volarské domy)
• Chapel of St. Florian in the cemetery, built in 1709
• Cemetery of the victims of the death march
• city ​​Museum
• Calvary with the Way of the Cross , northeast of the city
• Volarské menhiry, the stone circle consisting of eleven stones, was created in 2007 north of Volary on the hill “U lip”. Originally the prehistoric menhirs were located on a nameless plateau in the Ore Mountains . In the 1950s, a large part of the large roundel, consisting of several dozen stones, was lost in the course of the extensive cultivation of the fields and meadows. After the still preserved core of the complex was supposed to be destroyed by the construction of a road, the menhirs were moved to Volary. The center of the rondel is the visor stele, around which the other stones are arranged in two intersecting pentagrams. The arrangement of the stones corresponds to the position of the sun at the summer and winter solstice and Beltane .
• Church of St. Magdalena in Svatá Magdaléna

Regular events

Since 1993 the Volarské Slavnosti dřeva ( Wood Festival ) has been held regularly in Volary in August .

sons and daughters of the town

• Jakob Veith (1758–1833), Bohemian textile entrepreneur
• Hans Schreiber (1859-1936), Moor researchers honorary citizen of Wallern
• Wenzel Draxler (1861–1942), honorary citizen of Wallern, director, local historian and railway pioneer
• Gustav Herglotz (1881–1953), German mathematician
• Hans Foschum (1906–1956), architect and chief building officer of the Upper Austrian regional building management
• Jeanette Baroness Lips von Lipstrill (Jeanette Schmid, 1924–2005), Austrian art whistle
• Alfred Walter (1929–2004), conductor and general music director
• Leopold Hafner (1930–2015), German sculptor
• Paul Praxl (* 1935), Bavarian historian, archivist and local researcher
• Gerd Wagner (1942–1997), German diplomat

literature

• Bruno Sitter: Wallern - Tyrol in the Bohemian Forest. Morsak, Grafenau 1991, ISBN 3-87553-383-6 .
• Paul Praxl (revision), Rudolf Kubitschek, Valentin Schmidt : Wallern and the Wallerer. Verlag Heimatkreis Prachatitz / Böhmerwäldler Heimatbrief. Schwabenverlag, Aalen 1972.
• Roman Kozák: Zmizelé Čechy. Volarsko. Paseka, 2006, ISBN 80-7185-748-3 .

Web links

Commons : Volary  - collection of images, videos and audio files

• History města. In: mestovolary.cz. (Czech). 
• Volarské domy. Pedagogical Faculty of the University of South Bohemia in Budweis (Czech, typical Wallerer wooden houses). 
• Wolfgang Janka, Alois Dicklberger, Nicole Eller: Wallern, Czech Volary. (pdf; 68 kB) University of Passau , March 4, 2010, archived from the original on January 6, 2017 (explanations on place names). 
• Martina Schneibergová: Roman Kozák describes the disappeared Volary / Wallern. In: Radio Praha International . April 21, 2007 (on Roman Kozák's book, April 21, 2007). 

Individual evidence

1. ↑ http://www.uir.cz/obec/550671/Volary
2. ↑ Český statistický úřad - The population of the Czech municipalities as of January 1, 2019 (PDF; 0.8 MiB)
3. ↑ http://www.uir.cz/casti-obce-obec/550671/Obec-Volary
4. ↑ http://www.uir.cz/zsj-obec/550671/Obec-Volary
5. ↑ http://www.uir.cz/katastralni-uzemi-obec/550671/Obec-Volary
6. ↑ ^{a b c d e f} Johann Gottfried Sommer: The Kingdom of Böhmen; Represented statistically and topographically. Eighth volume. Prachiner circle. JG Calve'sche Buchhandlung, Prague 1840, pp. 364–365 ( limited preview in Google book search, digital copy on archive.org ).
7. ^ Johann Gottfried Sommer : The Kingdom of Bohemia; Represented statistically and topographically. Eighth volume. Prachiner circle. JG Calve'sche Buchhandlung, Prague 1840, pp. 358-365 ( digitized version ).
8. ^ ^{A b c} Franz K. Walter, Gustav Kindermann: The city of Wallern in the Bohemian Forest: How it used to be, Wallern in photos, stolen home . Friends of Wallern / Böhmerwald e. V., Wiesbaden 2004, ISBN 3-00-013740-8 , p. 64 (accessed on March 7, 2020).
9. ^ ^{A b} Michael Rademacher: German administrative history from the unification of the empire in 1871 to the reunification in 1990. Prachatitz district (Czech. Prachatice). (Online material for the dissertation, Osnabrück 2006). 
10. ↑ J. Krejsová: Kovová stavebnice TRIX vyrábûná ve Volarech. In: Volarský zpravodaj. September 2011, p. 10 ( PDF ), accessed on September 28, 2019.
11. ↑ Tajemný Františkov. In: sankot.cz. Archived copy ( January 20, 2015 memento on the Internet Archive ), accessed September 28, 2019.
12. ^ Judgment of July 31, 1969 in the criminal case against Alois Dörr. P. 206 ( PDF on helmbrechtswalk.com).
13. ^ Partnerská města. Town twinning at mestovolary.cz (Czech), accessed on September 28, 2019.
14. ^ Franz K. Walter, Gustav Kindermann: The city of Wallern in the Bohemian Forest: How it used to be, Wallern in photos, stolen home . Friends of Wallern / Böhmerwald e. V., Wiesbaden 2004, ISBN 3-00-013740-8 , p. 142 (accessed on March 7, 2020).
15. ^ Franz K. Walter, Gustav Kindermann: The city of Wallern in the Bohemian Forest: How it used to be, Wallern in photos, stolen home . Friends of Wallern / Böhmerwald e. V., Wiesbaden 2004, ISBN 3-00-013740-8 , pp. 142–144 (accessed on March 7, 2020).
16. ↑ Volarské menhiry. Jak přišly menhiry do Volar aneb Kterak Volary k menhirům přišly ("The menhirs of Wallern. How the menhirs came to Wallern or how Wallern got to the menhirs"). Archived copy ( Memento of December 24, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) (Czech), accessed September 28, 2019.
17. ↑ Slavnosti dřeva. Wood Festival on mestovolary.cz (Czech), accessed on September 28, 2019.