List of sport climbers

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This list contains representatives of modern sport climbing and bouldering . Since many climbers are active both as sport climbers and alpine climbers , there is inevitably an overlap with the list of famous mountaineers , such as B. with Thomas and Alexander Huber , who became famous as high-altitude and expedition climbers as well as sport climbers. Climbers who had their sporting climax before the modern idea of ​​sport climbing, such as B. Hermann Buhl or Walter Bonatti are not listed here.

The entries are sorted chronologically according to the year of birth and then, if the year of birth is the same, alphabetically according to the family name .

Men

Born before 1950

Born 1950 to 1959

Kurt Albert , inventor of red point climbing

Born 1960 to 1969

Stefan Glowacz , three-time Rockmaster winner

Born 1970 to 1979

  • François Legrand (* 1970) - winner of many competitions: 15 World Cups, Overall World Cup, 4 times World Champion, 2 times European Champion, 1 time Rockmaster .
  • Steve McClure (* 1970) - first ascent of Northern Lights ( 9a (French scale)); First ascent of Overshadow ( 9a + ), possibly the hardest route in Great Britain; third repeater of the trad route Rhapsody ( E11 7a (British)).
  • Fred Rouhling (* 1970) - already rated his Akira route, which has not been repeated to this day, as early as 1995 with the degree of difficulty 9b (French scale) (1995), which was considered unrealistic at the time .
  • Christoph Finkel (* 1971) - German sport climber; Victory at the German Sport Climbing Cup in 1992; German champion in bouldering 2000; World Cup victory in Laval in 1992.
  • Toni Lamprecht (* 1971) - Bavarian climber and boulderer with numerous first ascents in Kochel .
  • François Lombard (* 1971) - Rockmaster 1995; Overall World Cup winner 1994; also successfully climbed the rock
  • Fred Nicole (* 1971) - Swiss boulderer and first ascent of Dreamtime (first Fb 8c in the world).
  • Harald Berger (1972-2006) - three-time world champion in ice climbing ; Inspection of some of the most difficult climbing and ice climbing routes in the Alps. Died in an ice climbing accident in 2006.
  • Dean Potter (1972-2015) - 3rd free solo ascent of Separate Reality (2006), speed record on the nose (VI 5.11 A3), El Capitan, Yosemite National Park with Sean Leary in 2: 36.45 (2010)
  • Andreas Bindhammer (* 1973) - first ascent of KinematiX 9a (French: scale) in the southern French climbing area "Gorges du Loup"; German champion 2006; Repetition of La Rambla 9a + (2007).
  • Elie Chevieux ( b.1973 ) - Rockmaster 1993; Worldwide expeditions.
  • Andreas Proft (* 1973) - free solo ascents up to level 8b ; mostly climbs barefoot.
  • Bernabé Fernández (* 1974) - first Spaniard with difficulty 8c + (French scale); awarded in 2003 for his first ascent Chilam Balam the previously unattained level of difficulty 9b + ; the ascent of the route is doubted by other climbers; The route was downgraded to 9b by Adam Ondra in 2011 .
  • Klem Loskot (* 1974) - Austrian boulderer .
  • Daniel Andrada Jiménez (* 1975) - Usually just called Dani Andrada ; Main developer of top Spanish climbing areas; First ascent of two of the first routes with difficulty level 9b (French scale) ( Ali-Hulk sit start extension 2007 and Delincuente Natural 2008, both in Rodellar, Spanish Pyrenees).
  • François Petit (* 1975) - 1997 World Champion; World Cup overall winner 1995 and 1999; two-time youth world champion; French champion 1991; First ascent of the Bronx ( 8c + (French scale)), one of the most difficult and controversial routes in France.
  • Christian Bindhammer (* 1976) - Junior World Champion 1995; 2001 Rockmaster winner ; eight-time German champion in a row (!).
  • Dai Koyamada (* 1976) - Seventh ascent of the Action Directe by Wolfgang Güllich ; numerous first ascents, especially in Japan.
  • Ueli Steck (1976-2017) - Holds / held several speed records: Grandes Jorasses North Face 2008, Eiger North Face 2008 to 2011, Matterhorn North Face 2009. On April 30, 2017 he died in a crash while preparing for a record attempt on Mount Nuptse Mount Everest.
  • Iker Pou (* 1977) - Third ascent of the Action Directe .
  • Tommy Caldwell (* 1978) - With his partner, he managed the third and fourth free ascent of the Route Nose on El Capitan ( 5.13b (Sierra), 2005) and the Route Dawn Wall (5.14d) on the same mountain in 2015.
  • Sylvain Millet (* 1978) - first repeater of Route Realization ; first free ascent of Tough Enough (330 m, 8b + (French scale)); On-sight inspections up to 8b .
  • Roger Schäli (* 1978) - First free ascent of the Japanese Direttissima on the Eiger north face ( 8a (French scale)); First ascent of the Magic Mushroom ( 7c + ) Eiger north face; Red point ascent by Freerider ( 5.12d (Sierra)) on El Capitan ; several sport climbing up to difficulty level X (UIAA); First ascents in Alaska, Greenland, Norway, Alps, Morocco, Patagonia; 2011 team speed record of 4:25 hours on the Heckmair route on the north face of the Eiger.
  • Bernd Zangerl (* 1978) - climber of the Boulder New Base Line, Anam Cara, Memento .
  • Markus Bock (* 1979) - so far the only one who has been able to climb all climbing routes in Franconian Switzerland that are more difficult than grade X (UIAA); also repeated the Action Directe ; First ascent of the Corona route in the Franconian Jura (first German route in the XI + ).
  • Sonnie Trotter (* 1979) - Canadian all-round climber. First ascent of Forever Expired ( 9a (French scale)), in Lion's Head (Canada) and first repetition of the trad route Rhapsody ( E11 7a (British)).

Born 1980 to 1989

Born after 1990

Adam Ondra , currently one of the best sport climbers in the world
  • David Lama (1990–2019) - At the age of 16 multiple lead world cup winner, bouldering world cup winner, European lead champion, European bouldering champion; 8a (French: scale) onsight West Face Leaning Tower, Yosemite Valley , USA.
  • Jakob Schubert (* 1990) - Austrian champion, vice world champion 2011, vice rockmaster 2010, three-time youth world champion; World Cup overall winner 2011; Inspections of routes up to difficulty level 9b + (French scale), two-time world champion (lead and combination ) 2018.
  • Thomas Tauporn (* 1991) - World Youth Champion in difficulty climbing 2010, five-time German youth champion, German runner-up in 2009 and 2011.
  • Jan Hojer (* 1992) - twelfth repeater of the Action Directe route ; German master in difficulty climbing 2008.
  • Alexander Megos (* 1993) - 2013 first on-sight ascent of a route with difficulty level 9a (French scale): Estado Critico ( Siurana climbing area ); La Rambla ( 9a + ) on the second attempt.
  • Adam Ondra (* 1993) - vice world champion in lead 2009 and bouldering 2011, overall world cup winner lead 2009 and bouldering 2010; all age records in difficulty climbing: at 9 years old 7b + OS , at 10 years old 7c + OS, at 11 years old 8c RP , at 12 years old 8c + RP, with 13 9a RP, on his 14th birthday 8c OS, shortly after 9a on the second attempt; 2008 the La Rambla route ( 9a + ); Repeat of Golpe de Estado ( 9b ) in March 2010; First ascent of several routes in difficulty levels 9b and 9b + and the currently most difficult route in level 9c Silence (2017).
  • Reza Alipourshenazandifar (* 1994) - with 5.48 seconds current world record holder (as of September 2018) in 15 meter speed climbing
  • Enzo Oddo (* 1995) - youngest climber of the Realization ( 9a + (French scale)); First ascent of La Mustache qui Fache ( 9a + ).
  • Chon Jongwon (* 1996) - South Korean sport climber, two-time overall world cup winner in bouldering, 2018 vice world champion
  • Kai Harada (* 1999) - Japanese sport climber, world champion in bouldering 2018

Women

Born before 1975

Marietta Uhden , eleven times German champion

Born after 1975

  • Martina Čufar (* 1977) - Slovenian competitive climber with several World Cup wins in lead climbing from 2001. Routes up to 8c.
  • Liv Sansoz (* 1977) - two-time World Cup winner (1997 in Paris and 1999 in Birmingham) and three-time World Cup winner (1996, 1998 and 2000).
  • Tatiana Ruyga (* 1978) - Winner of the overall world cup in speed climbing in 2006 and 2007 .
  • Katrin Sedlmayer (* 1978) - European Champion 2000 in Munich, World Cup winner 2002 in Lecco.
  • Sarah Kampf b. Seeger (* 1981) - inspection of numerous routes up to 8c (French scale); German Vice Champion 2003.
  • Sandrine Levet (* 1982) - French competitive climber; five-time overall bouldering World Cup winner ; 2001 Vice World Champion.
  • Natalija Gros (* 1984) - Slovenian competitive climber. From 2004 he was able to win several World Cup victories in bouldering and lead climbing ; 2008 Histerija ( 8c + (French scale)) in Misja Pec, Slovenia; Routes up to difficulty level 8c + .
  • Maja Vidmar (* 1985) - Slovenian competitive climber and lead overall World Cup winner 2007. Red point ascents up to difficulty level 8c (French scale).
  • Nina Caprez (* 1986) - Swiss competitive climber; several national championship titles.
  • Angela Eiter (* 1986) - multiple overall World Cup winner, three-time world champion, Rockmaster winner, 8b + (French scale) On Sight , 9b red dot .
  • Alizée Dufraisse (* 1987) - Conquering sport climbing routes up to difficulty level 8c + / 9a (French scale); Third at the 2010 European Championships.
  • Chloé Graftiaux (1987-2010) - two-time bouldering world cup winner ; multiple Belgian champion.
  • Anna Stöhr (* 1988) - overall bouldering world cup winner (2008) and two-time world champion in bouldering (2007 and 2011).
  • Akiyo Noguchi (* 1989) - four-time world cup winner in bouldering
  • Charlotte Durif (* 1990) - French sport climber; Youth world champion; second place Boulder World Cup Grindelwald; over 100 routes from 8a to 8b + (French scale) onsight ; Red point to 8c +.
  • Juliane Wurm (* 1990) - multiple German champion; Vice European champion in bouldering 2010; 3rd place world championship in bouldering 2011; Vice Junior World Champion 2008; World champion in bouldering 2014.
  • Sasha DiGiulian (* 1992) - the first American to climb a route with a difficulty level of 9a (French scale); Vice World Champion in bouldering 2011; two-time US champion.
  • Petra Klingler (* 1992) - 2010: Swiss champion in the disciplines of bouldering and speed; World champion in bouldering 2016; 3rd place at the Bouldering EM 2017
  • Johanna Ernst (* 1992) - Overall World Cup winner 2008 and 2009; World champion 2009; European Champion 2008 and Rockmaster 2008.
  • Chiara Hanke (* 1993) - German sport climbing winner 2013; first German woman in level 9a 2019
  • Lena Herrmann (* 1994) - German champion lead climbing 2015; first German woman with difficulty 8c + 2016
  • Sol Sa (* 1994) - South Korean sport climber, vice world champion in the combined 2018
  • Jessica Pilz (* 1996) - Austrian sport climber, 2018 world champion in difficulty climbing and third place in the combination
  • Margo Hayes (* 1998) - American sport climber, first woman who climbed a climbing route with La Rambla in 2017 with a level of difficulty 9a +
  • Janja Garnbret (* 1999) - Slovenian sport climber, 2018 world champion in bouldering and in combination
  • Ashima Shiraishi (* 2001) - American climber; She holds several age records in difficulty climbing.
  • Ai Mori (* 2003) - Japanese sport climber, in addition to several successes at youth championships, she achieved third place in the lead at the 2019 World Championships

See also

Individual evidence

  1. a b Kurt Albert u. others: Climbing in the Frankenjura - Fight Gravity . 1st edition. tmms-Verlag, Korb 2005, ISBN 3-930650-15-0 , p. 148 .
  2. Chiara Hanke climbs "Sever the wicked hand" (9a) , Climax Magazine