Šolta

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Šolta
NASA satellite photo of Šolta
NASA satellite photo of Šolta
Waters the Adrian Sea
Geographical location 43 ° 23 '  N , 16 ° 17'  E Coordinates: 43 ° 23 '  N , 16 ° 17'  E
Šolta (Croatia)
Šolta
length 19 km
width 4.9 km
surface 58.17 km²
Highest elevation Vela Straža
237  m
Residents 1675 (2011)
29 inhabitants / km²
main place Grohote
OpenStreetMap map Šolta
OpenStreetMap map Šolta

Šolta [ ˈʃɔːlta ] is a wooded Croatian island and an independent municipality in the Adriatic opposite Split west of Brač . The Dalmatian island has 1,675 inhabitants. The main town is Grohote . The car ferry, which runs four to six times a day, docks in Rogač .

geography

Martinis Marchi in Maslinica , formerly a pirate shelter, now a luxury hotel
Šipkova uvala bay near Maslinica , the most beautiful bay on the island

The island, which runs from southeast to northwest, is approx. 19 km long, up to 4.9 km wide, has an area of ​​58.2 km² and a coastline of 79.5 km. The seven small islands of Stipanska, Polebrnjak, Saskinja, Grmej (Gmej), Rudula (Radula), Balkun and Kamičić hrid also belong to Šolta. The highest peak on the island is Vela Straža with a height of 237 meters near Gornje Selo . Most of the villages are on the north coast and in the interior of the island. There are no places on the steep south coast towards the open sea. The main road runs through the center of the island. There is no circular route along the coast around the island.

Bays, beaches & harbors

Ferry arrival in Rogač

Rogač is the island's permanently active ferry port, where cars and trucks are also loaded. It is located on the north side opposite Split, nine nautical miles away. The smaller catamaran ferries dock both in Rogač and in Stomorska, which is also on the north side. Other ports are no longer served in regular service. The port authority has its seat in Rogač, a place with relatively few houses ( boat registration Šolta = RO). There is also a gas station for cars and ships. The bus lines (yellow buses) via Grohote to Maslinica or Stomorska run from Luka Rogač in time with the ferries. In the back of the bay of Rogač there are bathing places or bathing possibilities on the right in the Uvalu Kašjun Bočac and on the left of the port entrance along the coast.

Nečujam apartment complex

Also on the north coast further east is Nečujam , the largest bay of Šolta, in which there are eight smaller bays such as Šumpjivina, Potkamenica, Mala Maslinica and Piškera. The scattered settlement Nečujam is the youngest place on the island. There is a good tourist infrastructure here with a beach and pool. The oldest hotel on the island was here. Nearby is the holiday home complex, which can be seen from afar from the sea. The bay is particularly popular for anchoring on the summer weekends, which is a source of criticism from neighbors due to the noise pollution and dumping of sewage. On the headland between the Podkamenica and Maslinica, an extensive marina with a jetty over the Piškera, Emperor Diocletian's fish reservoir , with a rotating hotel was to be built, where every room could have a sea view. So far no investor has been found, but the area is dedicated as a tourist settlement .

Oldest port of Stomorska

Even further to the east is Stomorska , the oldest port on the island. The picturesque harbor with an old building structure in the narrow bay has many bars and a marina. There are bathing opportunities to the right and left of the bay entrance. After the beach Veli Dolac on the left with a beach bar there is currently a new development area. To the right is Điga beach, a promenade with a rocky coast.

Two smaller bays emerged from small fishing ports and have similar names, Donja Krušica (Lower Krušica) and Gornja Krušica (Upper Krušica). Donja Krušica can be reached by road from Donje Selo . Gornja Krušica is located on the northeast side towards Brač, below the highest island peak Vela Straža and surrounded by the pine forest and can be reached on foot from Gornje Selo or by road from Stomorska. Both bays have almost no tourist infrastructure.

Overcrowded Šešula on summer weekends

Maslinica is located in the far west of the island . This fishing and agricultural harbor was only built in 1703. There is also a good tourist infrastructure, a marina for 50 boats and the luxury hotel Martini-Marchi. In Maslinica, in 2018, the rocky coast was raised further on both sides of the previous main beach, which is to the left of the entrance to the port. At what is now the largest beach on the island there is a beach bar with rental of water sports equipment. The port is very popular as a destination for day tourists from the mainland who come by excursion boats. To the north of Maslinica is the Šipkova uvala bay with the only natural sandy beach on the island. As with other bays, there have been signs since 2019. The northern area of ​​the bay is intended as a building area. The area of ​​the Selena between Maslinica and the Šipkova is still largely undeveloped. In Šolta there are a large number of bays due to the irregular coastline, especially on the south coast. Most, especially those on the south coast, are difficult to reach. The old paths are not developed and can only be used with off-road vehicles. For some time now there have also been advertisements in lesser-known bays and there are signposts.

The most famous of the southern bays is the Šešula not far from Maslinica. It is deep and offers natural protection from the bora and south wind and is therefore very popular for anchoring. In midsummer there can be a good 50 boats. There are two restaurants by the water and a fish farm opposite. Without a good access road further east lies the Poganic, with a pebble beach and a single house. The Zaglav, also Vela Luka, lies roughly at the height of Grohote. Not further to the east is the Tatinja , also only accessible via a gravel road. There is only one house in Jorja. On a hill above the sea are the remains of the Gradina fortress. Senjska can be reached from Gornje Selo. Here it is said of the fortress ruins Gradac on Mount Mir that they were built by the Illyrian Queen Teuta . In Stračinska there is a beach with white pebbles and the interesting name “Where Grandpa washes his bum”. There are also a few houses in the neighboring bay of Sajtija.

The Livka bay is located in the far east on the Splitska Vrata (strait door of Split) opposite the island of Brač. In Livka, a British investment company (volume 1 billion kuna ) is currently building a tourist center in the upscale segment, which should be ready in 2023. The construction is classified as a strategic investment project between investors, the Ministry of Economy, Enterprise and Commerce. The start took place in 2005. There have recently been delays due to the adaptation to new environmental laws. The picturesque flair and charm of the region will not suffer here, as the area was previously undeveloped. The supraregional project is not limited to Šolta, as a large part of the infrastructure comes from Brac via underwater pipelines, as there is nothing in Livka so far. In the first phase, a five-star hotel (109 rooms), a spa and wellness center, a clubhouse with a restaurant, a café-bar, a beach club as well as 29 villas and 23 bungalows will be built. Around 250 jobs are to be created.

Villages in the interior of the island

The larger towns are in the interior of the island. Grohote is the oldest and largest village on the island and the economic center, seat of administration and school location. There is a farmer's market, two supermarkets, a pharmacy, a permanently manned fire station and an island hospital with a doctor and a helicopter landing pad. Grohote is located in the center of the island, at a point where the main roads cross, and is about two kilometers from Rogač. Srednje Selo , the "middle village", a typical farming village, is located a few kilometers west of Grohote on the Srednje polje, protected from the north wind ( Bora ) on a southern slope. A little further to the west is Donje Selo , the "lower village", an old farming village with the church of St. Jele and the prayer room of the Martinsbruderschaft. From here a path leads to the small bay Donja Krušica. Donje Selo is the island's hunting center. East of Grohote is Gornje Selo , the "Upper Village", recognizable from afar by its castle hill, which was converted into a water reservoir during the communist era. The village is close to the highest mountain on the island.

Šolta municipality

Šolta Town Hall, the Slavic family castle in Grohote

After the collapse of Yugoslavia in 1991 , the Šolta municipality was re-established. The administration (town hall) is housed in the historic Slaviča castle in Grohote. The mayor has been Nikola Cecić-Karuzić (third term of office) since 2009. Deputy Mayor is Željko Zlendić, both from Grupe Birača. The tasks in the self-government area of ​​the municipality are regulated in a statute. Perspectives for the future were set out in the paper Development strategy of the municipality of Šolta up to 2020 . Spatial planning is currently an important topic. Šolta's partner municipalities are Črna na Koroškem in northern Slovenia near the border with Carinthia and Stari Grad on Hvar .

Demographics

In 2011 the island had 1,675 inhabitants. At the end of the 19th century there were 3,687. As the population development of the large towns shows, the population level of the 19th century is only slowly being reached again, although the number of houses has increased massively. In fact, fewer people are likely to live on the island than the current population statistics show. Since there are many cases of unclear ownership on the island, bogus reports are suspected. Otherwise, the statistics show four doctors, four nurses, eleven community employees and twenty community workers. The inhabitants are called Šoltanin (man) and Šoltanka (woman) in Croatian.

Population in the villages 1857–2011
year 1857 1869 1880 1890 1900 1910 1921 1931 1948 1953 1961 1971 1981 1991 2001 2011
Grohote 750 870 944 1,160 1,362 1,245 1,212 1,269 996 992 913 712 619 631 425 441
Gornje Selo 356 517 491 592 715 725 809 641 629 578 437 349 252 252 217 237
Stomorska 112 0 165 199 294 295 213 312 312 286 303 206 101 117 199 241
Maslinica 92 0 123 157 173 171 169 199 180 191 179 147 64 69 174 208
Rogač 0 0 13 59 0 17th 0 0 0 36 50 49 0 0 100 110
Nečujam 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 12 19th 6th 0 0 80 173
Donje Selo 161
Srednje Selo 256 325 316 355 394 372 324 309 321 308 285 206 143 150 128 104
Villages as a whole 1566 1712 2052 2522 2938 2825 2727 2730 2438 2043 2186 1675 1179 1219 1323 1675

history

Settlement

Old and new buildings in Podkamenica / Nečujam
coat of arms

For more than half a millennium, looting and piracy shaped the way the island was settled. The location of the island, on the one hand the open sea, on the other the not far distant coastal cities that have been rich since ancient times, brought Šolta repeatedly into the focus of hostile powers. The gently rolling island with 70 km of coastline, on which it is relatively easy to get ashore almost everywhere, offers little natural protection. The first recorded attack took place in 1240 by pirates from Omiš (25 km south of Split). In 1387 and 1418 the Venetians sacked the island. The last pirate attack took place in 1810. The island itself was also a refuge for the Uskoks , pirates from Senj , who fought against both the Turks and the Venetians and plundered the estates of the aristocrats from Split on Šolta. The names Vela and Mala Senjska are reminiscent of this time. On the feast day of St. John the Baptist in 1669 the pirates from Ulcinj devastated the village of Donje Selo and even took 64 men with them as slaves . The villages have been protected in the interior of the island for centuries. Except for Stomorska, the ports were barely developed. In every place there was a fortress or defense towers. It was not until the 18th century that the ports were slowly expanded. Since the boom in tourism, construction has mainly been in the coastal area, while many houses and agricultural buildings in the interior of the island are falling into disrepair. Binding development plans have been prescribed in Croatia since the end of 2005 and building law was amended in the course of joining the EU. It is no longer allowed to build closer than 70 m from the shore outside of built-up areas. Black buildings have been increasingly torn down since 2007. For foreign investors in the real estate sector, the legal situation is still confusing. Today's luxury hotel Schloss Martinis Marchi in Maslinica was bought by a German investor on the basis of an international tender. The state forest authority, however, is of the opinion that the municipality should not have sold the plant.

Stone Age & 1000 Years of Roman Peace

Roman sarcophagus in Grohote
Bunja in the U Maslinica Bay Nečujam

Like many of the Dalmatian islands, Šolta has been around since at least 6000 BC. Chr. Inhabited. Neolithic settlements from the Bronze Age were discovered in Doci and Grohote. On Šolta there are still many bunjas , one- room , windowless, round stone houses built without wood with a round roof made of limestone. They are kind of a simple form of the Italian trulli . In prehistoric times they served as a dwelling and until the 20th century as a tool room or stables for farmers. Traces of fortresses of the Illyrians from around 2300 BC BC can be found in Gradac, Vodnjak and Gradina. The archaeologists discovered Illyrian stone graves at Mala Stranza (Grohote), Mirine and Grebine (between Donje Selo and Maslinica) and in Gornje Selo. No later than the 4th century BC. Chr. Who came Greeks to the island. Šolta is mentioned for the first time in the pseudo-Skylax with the Greek name Olyntha , which can probably be translated as island of figs . At the time of the rise of the Roman Empire to world power, Šolta belonged to the island state of Vis (Issa), which controlled this part of Dalmatia. The Romans ruled the island for almost 1000 years until the 6th century and established the cultural landscape that is still visible today with olive groves, viticulture and fishing. In the most important map of antiquity , the Roman Tabula Peutingeriana , the island insula Solentii is later called Solenta , i.e. island of the sun . The Roman traces such as coins, ceramic shards and old walls can be found everywhere. A small necropolis was found during the construction of the apartment complex in Nečujam. There and in Rogač you can also see remains of walls lying under water. A villa rustica with bathroom was found on the south coast near Banje. The most famous Roman related to Šolta is Emperor Diocletian , who died in Dalmatia in 245 . He built a fantastic palace in Split as a retirement home and is said to have operated a fish farm in Piškera, the rear part of the Bay of Nečujam. Some historians also take the view that he had a thermal bath built on the island . At the latest in the 5th century , but probably already in the 4th century , when Christianity became the imperial church in the Roman Empire , the Catholic faith came to the island. Impressive relics of this time are the foundation walls of the old St. Stephen's Basilica and the two sarcophagi at the church of Grohote. There are other remains of the wall from this period on the islet of Stipanska in front of Maslinica .

When the Slavs and Avars took control with the destruction of Salona in 614, the time of peace in Rome ended. More than 50,000 Romans fled into the safe walls of Diocletian's Palace and from there to islands such as Šolta.

Croatian settlement from the 7th century

Chapel of St. Michael between Srednje Selo and Grohote

The first Croats came to the island around the 7th century . In the year 1100 the Kingdom of Dalmatia was established , which was repeatedly dependent on the Kingdom of Hungary or the Duchy of Austria for defense . From the 15th century at the latest, the settlements were largely moved to the interior of the island. As almost always, established settlement areas are not being given up. In Starine, near Gornje Selo, there is a medieval fortress that is a precedent Roman castle. Remnants of walls from the Middle Ages can be found in Sveti Mihovil in Grohoter Feld, in Donje Selo, in Nečujam and in Stormoska. It is believed that there were three small Benedictine monasteries on the island , for which there are first written references in the 11th century. The locations were Stormoska, Nečujam and Stipanska. The best preserved relic from this period is the St. Nicholas Chapel with its frescoes on the way between Grohote and Donje Selo. The island is named as Soluta in the Historia salonitana around 1266 . In Croatian , the term Sulet was used from the 10th century at the latest , which was common until the 20th century. In the statute of Split of 1312 the name Solta is mentioned for the first time , which was adopted in the Venetian maps and later by the hydrographs of Austria-Hungary , Croatia belonged to the Danube monarchy from 1745.

Ottomans & Venetians

Šolta was a Venetian colony

In 1537 the Ottomans conquered the fortress Klis ( Clissa ) and drove out the Venetians. The Turks expanded Klis as an administrative center of a sandjak and as a military base and operated from there against Venice. Two attempts to recapture the city in 1596 and 1648 failed. Only in 1669 did the Republic of Klis fall back to Venice. When these powers confronted, Šolta repeatedly became a refuge for mainland refugees. Due to its poor soil, the lack of fresh water and its geomorphology , there are no bays that are suitable both as natural harbors and for the construction of fortresses, Šolta itself was militarily uninteresting. During the Renaissance , the father of Croatian literature, Marko Marulić (1450–1524), a member of a Split aristocratic family, lived on the island. In 1501 he wrote his work Judita in Šolta , in which simple, godly Croatians are described who despair of God neither because of the horror of the Turkish siege nor because of poor harvests. At that time, the Ottoman expansion in Dalmatia was not yet complete.

In 1566, the polymath Petar Hektorović followed his footsteps. On the only trip of his life, he lived in Stari Grad on the neighboring island of Hvar , about this whereabouts of Marulic in the Supetar bay in Nečujam his most important work "Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje" (Eng. "Fisheries and the dialogues of fishermen") ). On the basis of his quasi-ethnographic observations, he tried to present the dialogues of his skippers, the fishermen Paskoje Debelja and Nikola Zet from Hvar, in their everyday language in the form of an epic poem.The work was completed on January 14, 1566 and printed in Venice in 1568 . His three-part work, addressed to his cousin in the form of a letter, is the first realistic, secular travelogue in Croatian that describes the landscape and the beauties of nature. The ribanje are one of the earliest records of Croatian folk music. A memorial column commemorates him next to the berth in front of the house in Nečujam. Legend has it that he brought gingerbread to Šolta, which is also made here with carob, honey, oil and the dessert wine prošek. The degree of hardness of the gingerbread used to be used for popular weather forecasting. Crispness and hardness showed nice weather and bora (north wind), softness on the other hand rain and Jugo, the Scirocco (south wind).

Only the Republic of Dubrovnik (Ragusa) was relatively autonomous over the centuries, as it cooperated with the Ottomans. In the 16th century, Dubrovnik's merchant fleet was the third largest in the Mediterranean and consisted of over 300 ships. Croatians from the surrounding country now moved to the cities and soon made up the largest part of their population. After a period of war, from 1645 to 1699, Dalmatia without Dubrovnik fell to Venice in the Peace of Karlowitz ( Sremski Karlovci ) . The Venetians granted the occupied Croatian cities a certain autonomy , but the heads of the cities had to be Venetian nobles. One consequence of the anti-Croatian policy was that e.g. B. the citizens of the city of Zadar (Zara) was forbidden to marry with Croats. Venice carried out massive overexploitation of the Dalmatian forests. The city of Venice is largely built on logs from Dalmatia, the Venetian fleet also devoured vast amounts of wood. The partially vegetationless karst areas of Istria and Dalmatia were largely created by the massive deforestation by the Venetians. The only thing that they had in common with the Venetians was the Catholic faith. Venice's oligarchical and colonialist policies led to resistance and uprisings. The largest took place on the island of Hvar in 1510 under the leadership of Matija Ivanić . The Split nobleman Ivan Alberti brought the Uskoks to Šolta, where they had a military base in Senjska Bay on the south side of the island. They fought the Venetians on land with guerrilla tactics, at sea with piracy. They were also involved in the temporary reconquest of Klis in 1596. After further wars and the peace in the Treaty of Passarowitz 1718, Austria-Hungary entered the scene in Dalmatia. Only the troops of Napoleon Bonaparte ended the rule of Venice over most of Dalmatia during his short reign.

In 1841 the places on the island are still listed with Italian names - Villa Grohote , Villa Inf.abbreviated for Villa Inferior (Donje Selio) with the port of Porto Olivetto (Maslinica), Villa Media (Srednje Selo) and Villa Superior (Gornje Selo) with the port Stomosca (Stomorska).

Austria-Hungary & Napoleon Bonaparte

Gornje Selo
Abandoned houses in Grohote

After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, Dalmatia fell to Austria in the Treaty of Campo Formio, and with it Šolta too. Since Austria-Hungary failed to prevail against Napoleon Bonaparte's wars of conquest , Dalmatia came to France with the Peace of Pressburg in 1805, which integrated it into the Kingdom of Italy , with which the island of Šolta became part of the Illyrian Provinces . After the Congress of Vienna in 1814/15, the entire region fell back to Austria, now Crown Land of Dalmatia in the Austrian Empire . You seem to have been very happy that you got rid of the Italian gentlemen. In a diary entry of the scholar Francesco Carrara, who visited Maslinica in 1843, it is said: It would be bad for our Dalmatian aristocrats if they continued to follow in the footsteps of the times. Thanks be due to the French Revolution and the Austrian judiciary, which holds most of the title of St. Mark and void the vanity the Hungarians left in Dalmatia. After the Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867, the autonomous Croatia-Slavonia remained under the countries of the Hungarian crown ; Dalmatia was one of the kingdoms and countries represented in the Vienna Imperial Council . In 1900 the crown land of Dalmatia had 12,835 km² and 610,000 inhabitants. Along with Trieste and Istria, Dalmatia was the most important coastal area of ​​the Austro-Hungarian Navy , in which many officers and sailors from Dalmatia served. The casella , small houses, which served as disinfection buildings for ships and can still be seen in Stomorska, Rogač, between Rogač and Nečujam, in Maslinica and in Straćinska, date from the 18th century . In 1867 the pastor of Grohote, Michael Vuskovič, was awarded the gold cross of merit with the crown by the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I "in recognition of his many years of meritorious services in the field of church and popular education, as well as his other charitable work." The telegraph came to Šolta late. In 1874 the kk state telegraph station Grohote was handed over to operation with "limited daily services". That was at the same time as in other smaller places of the monarchy such as in the Carinthian Sankt Paul im Lavanttal or in Pontafel (Pontebba) in the Canal valley . The real estate tax structure of the Austro-Hungarian administration was based on "Fractionen". The local community Šolta was divided into the cadastral communities Grohote, Donje-Selo, Gornje-Selo and Srednje-Selo, that is, under the Croatian place names. Šolta was no longer fully recorded in the land register by the Austrian administration . For parts of the island there is only the cadastre d. H. Site plans of the real estate in which property and usage rights are not directly entered. That makes real estate transactions difficult at times.

Nobility & tenants

The geographical proximity to Split, Šolta protected the city from the southwest towards the open sea against weather and hostile powers, and led to the island being ruled as an important supplier of raw materials from the 14th century to 1905 by the Split nobility. While the ideas of the French Revolution and the Revolution of 1848/49 spread more widely in the Austrian part of the monarchy , the tenants Šoltas, the land and fishing rights belonged to the nobility, had to wait a long time for the basic discharge.

The municipality of Split sold the island's income at public auctions until 1853. Especially since the Revolution of 1848-49 , which resulted in it in the Austrian part of the monarchy to the basic relief came and the farmers from the manorial could buy freely, the colonial tenants of Solta rebelled against the landowners. After decades of negotiations, Šolta and Split reached a provisional agreement in 1884. Only in June 1905 was the final purchase contract signed by all tenants. The end of the colony , the hereditary land lease, was celebrated with a big festival. The purchase price for 5,000 hectares of land was 900,000 kroner or 450,000 forints with an interest rate of 4.5% over 25 years, according to today's value around 11 million kuna (1.5 million euros).

The island's remoteness made it difficult for the aristocratic landowners to control their farmers' income. Armed inspectors, the sagumare , which stands for measuring device or curved drill rod Saguma , came to the island at harvest time and used iron rods to search for hidden crops such as spelled, barley or grapes in the hay and straw. The people of Šolta show the hiding places in the stone walls and piles between the fields, which can still be seen.

emigration

Locked window in Grohote
Decaying house in Grohote
War memorial in Grohote

From the second half of the 19th century, agricultural problems (cheap foreign wine and phylloxera ), the long insecure legal situation (ransom from the aristocracy), then the high costs for the poor residents of buying land and later the political developments of the 20th Century to a strong emigration . In addition to the cities of Western Europe, many emigrated to Australia, New Zealand or North and South America. Many emigrants later supported projects in their former homeland, such as the building of schools in Donje Selo (1928) and Maslinica (1935) or water reservoirs in the villages or cisterns in the fields (Basilija, Svilaja). The emigrants' money led to a building boom on the island around 1900. Most of the multi-storey houses were built during this time. From today's perspective, these houses have poor quality of living. They can hardly be heated in winter. The wood of the roof trusses with the typical stone roofs is mostly of inferior quality. A restoration is very complex, so it is better to build from scratch.

The drought has always been a big issue on the island. To the north-east of Gornje Selo, near the place where the Benedictine monastery Madonna under the fir trees stood from the 13th to 15th centuries , lies the Church of Our Lady of Stomorija. The church was a popular place of pilgrimage for the Šolterans . Shortly before the Assumption of Mary, pilgrims from all over the island, the last part of Gornje Selo even barefoot, to the Madonna portrait. When there was a great drought, the image of the Madonna was carried to the church of St. Ivan in Gornje Selo and prayed and rituals were performed for a week to summon the rain.

The names of the inhabitants at the beginning of the 15th century indicate that the subjects of the nobility were mainly Croatians. Of the 266 known families of this time, 109 could still be found in 1940. The families who immigrated from the 17th century to the 1930s came from Mostar , the hinterland of Split and Trogir . Most of the islanders are Roman Catholic . Characteristic for the island are the many dilapidated houses on the island. Due to the emigration, the ownership of many properties has not been clarified.

Second World War

In 1941 Šolta was annexed by Italian troops during the German Balkan campaign . The Italian coast is only about 200 km from Šolta. Some of the residents fought back and founded a people's liberation committee in the summer of 1942 and fought as partisans against the occupiers. But not all went into the resistance. Some collaborated with the Italians, others joined the Croatian fascists of the Ustaše . The consequences for the islanders were terrible. A karst cave in the area of ​​Gornje Selo, the Jama , achieved sad fame , where a teacher was executed by the Tito partisans for collaborating with the Italians. Italians and German armed forces reacted violently to the resistance. During the Second World War in 1825 citizens were expelled from Šolta. 939 were deported to El Shatt on Sinai at the southern end of the Suez Canal in Egypt . Grohote was damaged by Italian bombing raids. In the final phase of the war not a single inhabitant lived on the island for over six months. Returning was also dangerous. Important connections such as the old ravine between Rogač and Grohote were mined.

Yugoslavia

After the establishment of the Yugoslav state, all sailboat owners had to surrender their sails to Šoltas so that former Ustaša supporters could not flee to Italy. Some had made provisions with hidden sails in the forest and emigrated to the USA or Canada. Even those who died abroad were not allowed to be buried in their home country by the authorities in the 1970s.

In May 1952 the Šolta municipality was re-established. Electrification began soon after . A permanent water pipe from the mainland did not come until 1972. Before that, drinking water was supplied by water tankers. The employment opportunities on the island remained poor. In 1953 two companies were founded. A company tried to establish tourism. The other was a subsidiary of Jugoplastika , one of the largest industrial companies in ex-Yugoslavia. There was a factory in Grohote where most of the islanders worked for over two decades. A small injection molding plant was also built in Nečujam. Due to the high transport costs and small operating areas, production without government subsidies was not economical and was discontinued.

However, projects by returnees were boycotted. An Australian wanted to set up a chicken farm and a melon farm, but received no support. From the end of the war until 1958, around 1,000 people emigrated again, reducing the number of inhabitants by half. The bad situation on the island became a household word in Split. The worst curse that an angry mother could throw at her daughter's head was “Dabog da te Šolta dopala!” (May it be your fate Šolta!). The collapse of Yugoslavia from 1991 onwards led to the reestablishment of the municipality in 1993, which is now located in the premises of the Slaviča Castle in Grohote. Today tourism is the main economic perspective. One problem, however, is the lack of labor on the island.

Croatian war

Battle in the Split Canal
on November 15, 1991

When Croatia declared its independence, Split was an important garrison town of the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) with soldiers from all over Yugoslavia and the headquarters of the Yugoslav Navy (JRM). The political situation led to tensions and incidents between the Serb-dominated JNA and the Croatian National Guard for months, especially from the summer of 1991. The Croatian Navy (HRM) was not yet operational at sea at that time and began to build coastal batteries (OTB) on the mainland or on islands such as Šolta and Brač . The batteries on Šolta were located southeast of Maslinica towards the open sea and near Stomorska towards Split. As a countermeasure, the JRM imposed several sea blockades in which targets on land were shot at. On November 14th, the tactical group "Kastela" of the JRM formed with several ships in the Splitski Canal between the islands of Šolta and Čiovo and with fewer ships in the southeast of Split and south of Šolta. The worst incident occurred at dawn on November 15, 1991, when the JRM frigate Split fired shells at the city and its surroundings. The property damage was not very great, but six people died. All civil targets were fired at. In Šolta there was damage in Gornje Selo . Two enemy planes were shot down over Šolta and their pilots jumped into the sea. A JRM gunboat damaged by a torpedo was towed into the port of Stomorska by fishing boats and thus saved from sinking. After the repair, the ship was later named by the HRM PB-62 Šolta (since 2008 OB-02 Šolta ). The much stronger JRM could not prevail against the Croatian forces. The fight is considered to point the way for the further course of the war on the coast. The JNA and JRM evacuated all of their troops from Split in January 1992. On August 2, 2019, a monument by the sculptor Pero Jakšić from Donji Humac in Brač was inaugurated in front of the town hall in Grohote , commemorating three dead Šolta veterans.

Palms die out in Grohote

Flora and fauna

Coastal section in the Podkamenica, where rocks for olive oil vessels were extracted
Holey octopus

Almost the whole island was a human-shaped cultural landscape with olive groves, fig trees, vineyards and grazed forest. In the 1920s it was still said that "the whole valley north of Grohote" was a vineyard "in which huge grapes hang in overwhelming numbers". In the last 50 years in particular, however, the island's cultural landscape has undergone a greater change than over many centuries before. Since the late end of the aristocracy, the property has been increasingly fragmented. Small farmers were not supported under communism. Due to the emigration, there is a lack of agricultural workers as well as the goats and sheep for extensive pasture, so that cultivated areas are becoming more and more overgrown and overgrown. Due to the real division , properties became so small that one often does not take care of the handling of the inheritance for generations. This means that the ownership structure is often unclear, which excludes sale or (legally secure) lease. Under these circumstances, it is hardly possible to run farms as profitable farm sizes are not available. Larger areas can only be leased on state property. South of the road from Donje Selo to Maslinica there is a large new vineyard on a hill.

The old peasant structure that shaped the landscape no longer exists, but it is still present. The many piled stone walls that mark the field boundaries are unmistakable. Various Mediterranean plants can be found on the karst fields in the interior of the island. The flora and fauna are considered to be lush with over 100 species of birds, wild boars and hares. The symbol of the island is the "čuvita", the scops owl , which you can occasionally hear during the day. The former nickname of the islanders, "čuvitari", goes back to this. The permanent chirping of the cicadas is very typical for the island . Oranges and lemons can be grown without any problems. Before the mainland aqueduct was built in 1972, irrigation was a major problem. Today high quality drinking water is available from the mountains around Split. The island is so south that palm trees like date palms thrive splendidly. The red palm weevil ( Rhynchophorus ferrugineus ) introduced from Malaysia via Africa has also reached Šolta and is spreading further in Croatia due to the lack of natural enemies. Despite official bans (in Croatia since 2009), non-compliance with quarantine measures, forged documents of origin and missing or improper removal of infected plants destroyed the palm population in Šolta for an indefinite period of time.

In July 2019 there was an increased incidence of the octopus (Tremoctopus violaceus), which is very rare in the Adriatic, in the area of ​​the Croatian islands of Hvar, Brač and Šolta . An increased occurrence of the blanket octopus in Dalmatia was last reported in 1936. Characteristic of this octopus is the enormous difference in size between females (up to 2.5 meters) and males (only 2.4 centimeters).

economy

tourism

The only apartment complex on the island

Tourism is developing slowly. While Split was a popular tourist destination as Spalato (Italian name until 1918), in the interwar period , Šolta was still more for adventurous individual travelers. In a travel description from 1928 it is said that the islands also differ from the mainland in that the people there no longer wear festive costumes . In the early phase of Dalmatia tourism from the 1950s onwards, Šolta was too far from the centers due to poor cars and the long drive on the Adriatic coast road . To this day, Šolta has been spared from mass tourism . So there are z. B. only at Nečujam is an apartment complex, the operator of which has become insolvent. Most of the new houses belong to Split residents who have a second home here.

In 2009, a large, futuristic project by the Richard Hywel Evans architectural firm caused a sensation. On the headland between Podkamenica and Maslinica in Nečujam , an extensive marina with a jetty over the Piškera with a rotating hotel was to be built, in which every room should have a sea view. So far no investor has been found. A villa complex with eleven houses is to be built on part of the planned site, across from the Podkamenica and Maslinica bays. The area still has a tourist dedication including a port facility.

Šolta criticizes the “thoughtless spatial planning and the construction of new tourist zones”. New projects would not take into account the typical architecture of the island, would not comply with building regulations (black buildings) or would be of no benefit to the island due to the demographic situation (lack of workers) . The lack of a sewer system is also criticized. Too few officials are available to control the sewage disposal. The coast guard has too few staff and the yachts that are allowed to anchor in the bays without a mooring fee often dump their sewage in an uncontrolled manner. The uncontrolled operation of the jet skis carried on the yachts endangers swimmers and the environment.

Olives

Historic olive press in Grohote

Šolta was owned by the Split nobility and the Catholic Church from the 14th century until 1905. The proximity to the city, approx. 17 km by boat, made the island an important supplier of wood, lime, meat, fish, oil, wine, almonds, carob , figs and honey. Olive oil and wine were exported from Stomorska to Italy on wooden sailing ships . Some of the ships can still be viewed.

Based on the ancient name, one can assume that figs were very important in ancient times. At the latest with the Romans, the olives came to the island. Olive oil can be used very universally as a food, for lighting or medicine and was therefore the main product in ancient world trade. In Podkamenica in Nečujam there is a stretch of coast between the old houses right on the shore, on which limestone blocks for olive oil vessels were carved in ancient times, from which the name of the bay derives. Around 1880 there were still 300,000 olive trees on the island. Currently, the population is estimated at 100,000, with half being cultivated for one harvest. In Yugoslav times, private olive production by small farmers was not encouraged. Croatian olive oil does not play a major role in the world market (0.02% of world production). Since the Croatian War of Independence in 1991, olive groves and vineyards have been increasingly renewed. The cultivation is not mechanized, it is picked by hand. The varieties Oblica and Šoltanka dominate. In Gornje Selo, the “Olynthia Natura” cooperative has an accessible oil production facility. In addition to the tasting, guided tours through olive gardens and a. for trees up to 1000 years old. In old houses, e.g. B. in Grohote, there are still millstones of the hand-operated oil presses. Some houses have oil basins carved in stone on the ground floor. According to local tradition, they date back to Roman times.

Viticulture - Dobričic ancestor of Zinfandel

Stone foundation of a wine press in Grohote

Viticulture has existed on the island since ancient times. The most famous autochthonous red wine variety is Dobričic. As a DNA analysis showed, this variety is one of the original varieties of the American Zinfandel, along with the Kaštelanski from the area around Split . The American wine pioneer Mike Grgich , who came from Croatia, brought the varieties to California. The Split aristocratic family of the father of Croatian literature, Marko Marulić (1450–1524), who also lived on Šolta, were among the first to intensively cultivate the Dobričic. Viticulture in Šolta suffered severe setbacks in the 19th century. A trade agreement between Austria-Hungary and Italy enabled inexpensive Italian wines to be imported duty-free. Diseases such as downy mildew and phylloxera reduced the population. The best qualities with supraregional importance were produced in the 1870s and 80s by Pietro degli Alberti from Porto Oliveto di Solta (Maslinica). At the Vienna World Exhibition in 1873 he received an honorary award, at the Trieste Exhibition in 1882 a gold medal. There was still intensive viticulture in the interwar period. As a result of the communist economy, there is still no larger winery. It is grown almost exclusively for personal use. For some smaller winegrowers z. For example, in Donje Selo wine can be bought directly. It is also available at the market in Grohote. A large vineyard (on state leased land) was first laid out around 2015 on a hill on the road to Maslinica.

Fishing

Old, windowless limestone fisherman's house, covered with stone slabs

Fishing has always played an important role in Šolta. Local tradition says that at the time of Emperor Diocletian there was a fish reservoir in Piškera, part of the largest bay in Šolta, that of Nečujam , in which live fish were kept until the next orgy . Diocletian had a fantastic palace built in Split as a retirement home . This is not archaeologically secure, but the legend is probably due to the numerous remains of building walls in the water around the island, as the sea level has risen by about 1.7 m in the last 2000 years. In the period before 1905, when Šolta still belonged to the nobility or clergy, the families had their main houses in the interior of the island, safe from pirates. There were only simple, stone-walled and roofed, windowless fishermen's houses on the seashore. In the last few years of the Austro-Hungarian Empire , fishing has seen an upswing. We provided live lobsters even to the imperial court. During the year the animals were collected in a sea basin, a 10 by 10 meter wooden cage, called the deposit, in the Rogač Bay . Breeding continued until the 1970s.

Anchovy fishermen of the Cecić family vlg. Bilini at Nečujam

Anchovy fishing was a main occupation and source of income for many families on Šolta until the 1970s . The "pod sviču" method was used to fish. Fishing boats with kerosene lamps mounted on them went out to sea in a convoy during the night. With the right light situation, a bright full moon was not allowed in the sky, more anchovies could be caught in the nets on good nights than the simple boats of the Leuti or Gajete type could transport. Boats were expensive, so fishermen from poor families hired boat owners as crews. After the Second World War , the independent fishermen were initially expropriated. The anchovy fishery was later tolerated but made more difficult. No electricity was initiated in Pod Kamenica. The fishermen had a special license and bought cheap petroleum. However, the fish stocks declined more and more due to overfishing in the Adriatic. This method was still used for fishing until the early 1970s. They switched to lobster and lobster farming. In the meantime there is almost only hobby fishing. In the post-war period, it soon became apparent that tourism became an interesting source of income.

Fisherman's house for anchovy production of the Cecić family in Pod Kamenica

Fish used to be the most important source of meat, because sheep farming did not play a major role on the island. As a recipe collection from the island shows, tuna , calamari as well as scampi and prawns were considered the finest seafood. The tuna is now extinct. Other game fish are only found in small quantities and are mostly imported for gastronomy.

Lime kiln

The great forest fire of 2007 in the eastern part of the island, in which 70 hectares of pine forests and bushes burned, exposed a whole network of barrows, former olive groves and vineyards as well as the remains of lime kilns (earth pits). There is a never used oven at Pod Gaj, and a relatively large one in Jorja Bay. The lime distillery has been important on the island since ancient times because of the limestone and forests. Since the Middle Ages, the islanders of Šolta were obliged to supply Split with lime. Around Gornje Sele alone, with 120 families, there were 270 pits, and around 600 across the island. Some are now flooded under water, such as B. in the bay of Nečujam. In order to protect the forests from further deforestation, the first circular lime kiln of newer type heated with coal was built in the Šešula Bay near Maslinica in 1885 . The rock was brought into the furnace over a bridge with wagons. The facility, which was designed by Petar Alberti, was long owned by Baron Juraj Vranyczany-Dobrinović from Rijeka . Before the Second World War, 50 to 150 lime kilns were built annually, which delivered between 200 and 600 wagons of the best lime. In 1916, a large kiln for industrial lime production was built in Stomorska Bay, which can still be seen. Lime is no longer produced on the island today.

Honey and dalmatian insect flowers

Maja Ettinger-Cecič "Lunch" in Srednje Selo

According to travel writer Father Alberto Fotis, honey was already considered to be very good as a Šolta in ancient times. In the 19th century, exhibitors won numerous international prizes e.g. B. in Paris , Tetschen , Pressburg or Steyr . When Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria also visited Split in 1875, he received a glass as a present. At that time, Šolta was known as the “honey-sweet island”. Even after the Second World War, honey was one of the three best in the world. The reason for this is the widespread use of rosemary , called Olintio on the island. When the beekeeping association was founded in Grohote in 1875, there were around 600 beekeepers on the island . Beekeeping has declined significantly on the island today as there are fewer flowering plants today. It is mostly beekeepers from the mainland who have the baskets on the island over the summer. The old traditional company of Goran Tvrdić still has its own honey stand on the market in Grohote.

The island was also known for the large-scale cultivation of the Dalmatian insect flower , which was once a main export item of Dalmatia. The first plantations were established in 1870 by the then mayor of Šolta, Petar degli Alberti near Polebrnjak. Production peaked at 18 tons of dried flowers before World War II. You can still find the insect flowers here and there wild.

Culture and customs

Lime sumps in Grohote

The free newspaper Discover Šolta (in English) published in the tourist information office at the beginning of summer provides an overview of all events .

  • Musicians and Singers Association Olinta. founded in 1922 by Ivan Cecić, fishermen, day laborers and lime producers (several performances in summer; singing group meeting on the first weekend in August)
  • Pirate night in Maslinica (mid-July)
  • Pulling by Mrduja . (potezanje Mrduje), boaters from Šolta and Brač attach their ropes to the islet and try to pull it in their direction (on the last Saturday and Sunday in July)
  • Šoltanski trudi. Association of local farmers and artisans (every Thursday market day in Maslinica)
  • Folk and church festival of the Brotherhood of St. Nicholas in Stomorska (around St. Nicholas Day)
  • Local history magazine Bašćina. with already 19 issues

Personalities

  • Vjekoslav Blaškov (1912–1948), b. in Donje Selo, officer, politician and journalist
  • Eugen Buktenica (1914–1997), b. in Grohote, an important representative of Croatian naive art
  • Maja Ettinger-Cecič (* 1962, Srednje Selo), painter living in Vienna
  • Marin Kalajzić (1911–1979), b. in Grohote, representative of Croatian naive art
  • Vesna Parun (1922-2010), b. in Zlarin , poet, came from Šolta on her mother's side and is buried there
  • Dinko Sule (* 1953, Grohote), painter ( naive art ) and poet

gallery

literature

  • Zoran Landeka: Otok Šolta . Zagreb 2011, ISBN 978-953-56793-0-1 (Croatian, 103 p., Nautical description of the bays).

Web links

Commons : Šolta  - album with pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

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  2. Statistical yearbook for 2006 of the Central Bureau of Statistics of the Republic of Croatia (PDF; 2.5 MB)
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  4. Tea Duplančić Leder, Tin Ujević, Mendi Čala: Coastline lengths and areas of islands in the Croatian part of the Adriatic Sea determined from the topographic maps at the scale of 1: 25,000 (PDF; 378 kB). In: Geoadria 9, No. 1, 2004, pp. 5-32.
  5. ^ Zoran Landeka: Otok Šolta . Zagreb 2011, ISBN 978-953-56793-0-1 (Croatian, 103 pages, with a short nautical description of places and bays).
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  64. For more photos see Commons | Šolta | Fishing
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